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Tiny tanks, but with paint this time. L-R: S-model T-35 in OG color, S-model T-26 done up in SCW Republican style, and a Revell Leo 2A6M, all 1/72.  Freehand detailing. Unfortunately the Nationalists got all the colorful tanks. Finally, the whole reason I bought into 1/72 armor in the first place - a joke for maybe three people? 
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Jan 21, 2020 05:03
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I've managed to squeek together a little more money to get my hands on an airbrush. I managed to find a site that has a Paasche Talon for $160AUD with the hose which is about the cheapest I've ever seen it. It's the airbrush I was looking at getting originally and should do alright for painting car bodies which is what it'll mostly get used for. Is it a decent brush? I'd spring for something like an eclipse but it's $40 more without things like a hose which I'll need as my current brush uses a pretty terrible plastic airline that won't work with anything I've looked at.
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Jan 21, 2020 08:52
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Weird question: What kind of chair or sitting position do y'all use? I've been spending increasingly more time at my modeling table and my back is screaming by the end of it, and I'm a pretty spry 28 year old otherwise. I just don't see how to comfortably sit for hours while leaning forwards to look at what I'm doing. Anything I can do besides try to keep my back straight?
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Jan 21, 2020 20:58
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If you can make a dedicated desk make it higher than a normal dinner table and get one of those swivel barstools with a adjustable back. I used to work on a heavy door on stands with obe of those stools and it was amazing compared to hunching over a table like I have to do now...
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Jan 21, 2020 21:38
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I made my bench higher than a normal desk or table. Watchmakers run a desk that is around shoulder level and rest elbows right on the desk itself. Not that I'd want to build models like that, but it shows how people do it for 8 hours a day for a lifetime. It's much more ergonomically correct and stable than hanging our big gangly arms out over a table.
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Jan 21, 2020 21:49
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You can easily try some different heights by getting a sturdy box and putting it on top of your regular desk, then use it as your work surface. I sometimes do that for fiddly woodworking projects.
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Jan 21, 2020 22:12
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New airbrush ordered and it should be here tomorrow, just in time for my birthday. I also have some pipettes and a cleaning station on the way to help out with things. I'm looking forward to being able to speed up some of the painting processes.
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Jan 22, 2020 04:17
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I bought AK acrylic diorama still water, but managed to gently caress up the application. Small parts of it look like they're supposed to (I assume), but the majority of the pour has small cracks running through it, and some have cracks up to half a millimetre wide. What am I doing wrong? I poured it over a rough surface (simulating a sandy river bed), but I don't think that would matter. Should I have thinned it with something?
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Jan 23, 2020 03:25
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Airbrush arrived but I had to go on quite a hunt through different parts shops to find an adaptor to fit the hose onto the compressor. I unfortunately forgot to pick up some teflon tape to seal the threads so I'll have to head back to the hardware shop shortly.
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Jan 23, 2020 03:59
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So theres an upgraded model of the generic master airbrush spray booth now. Two fans with a top mounted exhaust. Also included the LED kit. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MGGYH2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Ended up picking one up but I haven't had the chance to airbrush anything recently.
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Jan 23, 2020 07:09
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I've always been a fan of non-traditional paint schemes, so seeing this video about an F-15 painted like a WW2 B-17 really made my day. I now know what I need to do with the 1/48 F-15 in my stash. https://www.military.com/video/air-force-f-15-gets-stunning-heritage-paint-job
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Jan 23, 2020 14:37
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SkunkDuster posted:I've always been a fan of non-traditional paint schemes, so seeing this video about an F-15 painted like a WW2 B-17 really made my day. I now know what I need to do with the 1/48 F-15 in my stash. If you dig the 'what-if' stuff, check out this guy's renders: http://www.clavework-graphics.co.uk/. He's got lots of neat poo poo buried in there.
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Jan 23, 2020 14:54
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Symetrique posted:So theres an upgraded model of the generic master airbrush spray booth now. Two fans with a top mounted exhaust. Also included the LED kit. Hmm that looks a lot better than the original one, mostly because it's wider. I may have to consider that.
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Jan 23, 2020 17:24
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:If you dig the 'what-if' stuff, check out this guy's renders: http://www.clavework-graphics.co.uk/. He's got lots of neat poo poo buried in there. Lots of cool stuff there. Thanks! I just remembered that I had planned to do the splinter camo on my F-15, so now I guess the only option is to buy another F-15 so I can do one of each. I've been wanting to build a 1/32 F-15 anyway, so every problem has a solution.
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Jan 23, 2020 18:44
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SkunkDuster posted:I've always been a fan of non-traditional paint schemes, so seeing this video about an F-15 painted like a WW2 B-17 really made my day. I now know what I need to do with the 1/48 F-15 in my stash.
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Jan 23, 2020 21:08
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I think that was me. Edit: Darth Brooks posted:I did a Spitfire Vette, similar to what you were talking about doing.
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Jan 24, 2020 00:18
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So I got a 3 gallon, 125psi air compressor to air up my tires. I was wondering, if I use the right adaptors and I guess a regulator? Can I hook up an airbrush to it for my models?
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Jan 24, 2020 00:27
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It's been suggested that I have entirely too many Japanese ships. It's not that I'm some weeaboo, they just have the best looking stuff.  I've mostly finished my latest project, the battleship Mikasa in 1/350. I just always liked the story of the ship. A battleship so old even the occupying US was like "Yeah that's pretty cool, you guys can keep it" after WW2. It's a Hasegawa model, and an old-ish kit as there's definately some jank there. A few techniques the more modern Hasegawa ships use like hull stiffeners aren't really present here. There's a couple, but they only have a vague concept of alignment, so the hull halves is mostly guessing and seam filling. I wanted to do the ship in her 1902 look, probably just after being built by the British. It had a really snazzy black and white paint scheme that didn't last very long in Japanese hands, but drat. The stripes on the funnels were a bitch to mask, mostly because I'm an absolute idiot and built most of the assemblies before remembering I had to do that masking thing later on. I used the official detail set Hasegawa makes, as well as the wooden deck. The detail kit is nice, turned main gun barrels and photoetch. But a lot of it is just hilariously impractical. Thank god the brass rings around the funnels weren't on the ship in this era. Even still there's about 10 railing bits I either just didn't bother to use, or it was incredibly unclear how they were SUPPOSED to be used. There's a railing called for along the boat deck with the row of mounted guns. Except the railing is taller than the guns, so gently caress it. Other strange bits in the detail set is it supposedly allows you to build the early or later configuration, but it's missing parts. The early version I built is supposed to have 3 spars per mast, but the kit only includes 2. There's also an AA gun platform that was later added midway up the mast, and there's no parts for that either. And the catwalks...gently caress the catwalks. So the Mikasa had a catwalk platform that ran along the sides of the hull just below the secondary guns. The detail kit includes photo-etch for this, and the kit has plastic versions. Either way you go, it doesn't loving work! The problem are the torpedo netting spars along the side of the hull, the instructions just show you slapping the catwalks over them, but they don't even approach fitting. I also had a valiant go at the rigging. But some just wasn't practical. There are cable stays that go from the funnels to anchors on the boat deck, but I found it's just not practical to glue the bits in there. Maybe later I'll go back and experiment with heat-shrinking some line as it was mostly an issue of getting them looking taut. I didn't really do much weathering, I tend to "finish" a ship and take a break from it before returning to do little touch-ups later. Have some pictures.    
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Jan 24, 2020 00:38
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Charliegrs posted:So I got a 3 gallon, 125psi air compressor to air up my tires. I was wondering, if I use the right adaptors and I guess a regulator? Can I hook up an airbrush to it for my models? Absolutely. That's what I do and it works well. Most likely louder than a smaller dedicated compressor, but runs far less often due to the large tank.
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Jan 24, 2020 00:49
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Darth Brooks posted:I think that was me. That is awesome. I used to have a '66 Mustang that I wanted to paint up like a P-51 with airbrushed panel lines, rivets, and the whole works, but I realized at some point that I was never going to restore it so I sold it.
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Jan 24, 2020 01:38
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Bill Posters posted:Absolutely. That's what I do and it works well. Most likely louder than a smaller dedicated compressor, but runs far less often due to the large tank. Oh sweet that's the answer I was hoping for. So is all I need just a regulator and the right size hose and/or adaptors?
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Jan 24, 2020 02:03
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Charliegrs posted:Oh sweet that's the answer I was hoping for. So is all I need just a regulator and the right size hose and/or adaptors? A lot of people recommend a moisture trap. I've never used one and my basement gets very humid in the summer. Never had any problems with moisture in my paint.
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Jan 24, 2020 02:08
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Charliegrs posted:Oh sweet that's the answer I was hoping for. So is all I need just a regulator and the right size hose and/or adaptors? Pretty much. I was able to source most of the fittings from the local hardware store. As mentioned above, a moisture trap is recommended but you can probably get a regulator with one built in.
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Jan 24, 2020 02:39
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Darth Brooks posted:I think that was me.
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Jan 24, 2020 03:38
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SkunkDuster posted:A lot of people recommend a moisture trap. I've never used one and my basement gets very humid in the summer. Never had any problems with moisture in my paint. Are you using a full size compressor or just a hobby compressor? My moisture traps on my small hobby room compressor never seem to capture any moisture, but my big vertical standing compressor in the garage makes water in huge volumes, and I live where it's very dry (Phoenix area). I highly recommend moisture traps for a largish compressor if you are going to run a hobby air-brush off of it. You may also need to double regulate it in order to get the fine pressure control you will want at the air-brush as the regulators that go up over 150psi don't have very fine control at all down at air-brush pressures.
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Jan 25, 2020 06:13
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 I just finished the Tamiya F-14D. Was the first kind of high-end plane I've done and the first jet since I was a kid. I did alright, nothing like the works of art that people are capable of turning this thing into. It was probably the best engineered model I've put together...everything fit absolutely perfectly and it was pretty idiot proof even for something so complex. Also I visited the USS Wisconsin this week, and there's a guy building a USS Constitution from wood totally from scratch. When I was there, he was installing the coppering...which meant attaching hundreds of tiny copper panels, each about 1/4" by 1/2", with incredibly tiny copper rivets. He said he was about 2,500 hours into the build, and guessed he had 2,500 hours more. Like...holy hell. Was it bad my first thought is "you're kind of old, are you sure that timeline is realistic"
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Jan 25, 2020 20:48
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Is it just me or is Tamiya clear spray really flat? I do exclusively car models and Everytime I spray the clear over the body it doesn't look any different than before I sprayed. Even after 3 coats. I never get the "wet look" from it. Maybe I need to hold the can closer to the body when I'm spraying?
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Jan 25, 2020 21:03
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The Locator posted:Are you using a full size compressor or just a hobby compressor? My moisture traps on my small hobby room compressor never seem to capture any moisture, but my big vertical standing compressor in the garage makes water in huge volumes, and I live where it's very dry (Phoenix area). It is a 6? Gallon DeWalt pancake compressor and before that, a 3? Gallon craftsman. Somebody upthread mentioned a regulator with an integrated moisture trap. It is possible that's what I have. I've been using the thing for years without giving it any thought. I'm not at home right now and all I can picture in my mind is the knob and gauge. Edit: I just looked it up and it does have a moisture trap on the bottom so I stand corrected and ignore everything in my previous post. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Jan 25, 2020 |
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Jan 25, 2020 21:44
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Charliegrs posted:Is it just me or is Tamiya clear spray really flat? I do exclusively car models and Everytime I spray the clear over the body it doesn't look any different than before I sprayed. Even after 3 coats. I never get the "wet look" from it. Maybe I need to hold the can closer to the body when I'm spraying? It seems to respond well to a polish once it’s set to get the ‘wet look’. I do almost nothing but cars and particularly race cars so holding the can closer to the model is not an option as it’ll eat the decals without too many issues
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Jan 26, 2020 00:07
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Sometimes a really deep, thorough cleaning of the model room is more rewarding than completing a really challenging kit. I spent a bunch of time today clearing the workbench, dusting, vacuuming, and reorganizing. After a year in this modeling room, I've fixed some flaws in my setup that will hopefully help better utilize space and make for a more efficient workflow. Bottom line is that, it finally feels good to walk in the model room again.
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Jan 26, 2020 05:12
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Hell yeah I'm reorganizing stuff too. Bought an alex drawer from ikea for the extra storage. Haven't had time to work on any kits for a few months, hoping that cleaning and reorganizing the workbench helps motivate me to start up again.
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Jan 26, 2020 05:19
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Currently stripping the paint off of a Porsche kit after I messed up some time ago so I have to go back to square one while I wait for new decals to arrive. I'd forgotten that simple green doesn't do a whole heap to tamiya spray so I've switched to isopropyl which is shifting the paint and primer off the body although its going slowly.
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Jan 26, 2020 06:02
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:Currently stripping the paint off of a Porsche kit after I messed up some time ago so I have to go back to square one while I wait for new decals to arrive. I'd forgotten that simple green doesn't do a whole heap to tamiya spray so I've switched to isopropyl which is shifting the paint and primer off the body although its going slowly. I think oven cleaner works well for stripping paint? It works really well for me for de-chroming parts so I assume paint would come off easily although I have not tried it myself. Also I'm not sure how glued/cemented pieces would react to it.
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Jan 26, 2020 07:56
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Charliegrs posted:I think oven cleaner works well for stripping paint? It works really well for me for de-chroming parts so I assume paint would come off easily although I have not tried it myself. Also I'm not sure how glued/cemented pieces would react to it. I've heard of that but haven't tried it. I managed to get the paint off the outside so I'm back to priming it so I can paint it tomorrow. Tried out the new airbrush today and it's a beautiful step up from my old airbrush. It took a little bit to get used to the dual action but it has a needle stop which seems to stop me being able to do anything to silly. I want to decant tamiya spray to use on the body. I know I need to decant it and let it gas but will I need to thin it at all before I put it through the brush or will it be fine as is?
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Jan 26, 2020 08:23
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I decanted some Tamiya coral blue a while back and went straight to the airbrush with no thinner. I will say to have good ventilation where you're spraying. That poo poo is strong. Also, you probably know, but don't stir the decanted paint until it's well gassed out. That poo poo will bubble up in a hurry and go loving everywhere.
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Jan 27, 2020 02:43
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:I decanted some Tamiya coral blue a while back and went straight to the airbrush with no thinner. I will say to have good ventilation where you're spraying. That poo poo is strong. Also, you probably know, but don't stir the decanted paint until it's well gassed out. That poo poo will bubble up in a hurry and go loving everywhere. Yeah I'll be spraying it outside with my respirator on at the same time so I don't breath it in. It did bubble a bit when I swirled it but it seems to have lost all of that now so I can get on with painting. I'm hoping that I can get decent covereage without covering huge amounts of the detail.
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Jan 27, 2020 03:03
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Looking for advice on beginner equipment and education on airbrushing. The only modeling I've done was easy snap together stuff as a kid. Are there any good youtubers to follow that give decent advice for new folks? Any specific air brushes or kits recommended? I do have a shop air compressor that I could add another regulator to if needed.
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Jan 28, 2020 00:39
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Maksimus54 posted:Looking for advice on beginner equipment and education on airbrushing. The only modeling I've done was easy snap together stuff as a kid. Are there any good youtubers to follow that give decent advice for new folks? Any specific air brushes or kits recommended? I do have a shop air compressor that I could add another regulator to if needed. I've never heard bad things about Iwata, Tamiya, and Harder and Steenbeck or whatever it's called.
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Jan 28, 2020 01:15
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I recently bought a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution, and it's a huge step up compared to my old cheapo brand brush. The biggest thing is the free floating nozzle which is much easier to clean. But I really wish I bought an Infinity because I could really use a variable needle stop. I also bought a cheap ultra sonic cleaner (~40€) and it has really simplified cleaning up. I airbrush indoors wearing an A1 mask, but I have no spray booth with ventilation. The room I paint is in an attached workshop to my house so it's not used for living but rarely cleaned, am I loving my lungs over? I just realised that it's probably filled with paint dust that might fly around even long after I last airbrushed. Can someone explain the basics of spraying lacquer? I realise I'm going go need better ventilation, but from what I've heard a big upside is easier cleaning?
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Jan 28, 2020 07:04
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zokie posted:I recently bought a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution, and it's a huge step up compared to my old cheapo brand brush. The biggest thing is the free floating nozzle which is much easier to clean. Proper ventilation is necessary along with organic vapor cartridges for your respirator. Lacquers are easier to clean since isopropyl alcohol or lacquer thinner will just cut through them without causing them to gunk up like vinyl acrylics. They're also more durable and cure much faster than normal acrylics. They also reduce much better, so its possible to really thin your paint down if you want to try something like mottling or blackbasing at a low PSI/distance. Lacquer gloss paints thinned with a leveling thinner are also much easier to use and end up looking better than waterbased gloss.
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Jan 28, 2020 07:36
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