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Endman posted:If you can't hack super neat edge highlights, just do what I do and be consistently messy: Alternatively, you can just say you were going for a desert camouflage, and knock everyone's socks off. It looks great!
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Jan 25, 2020 13:11
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I got given a box of the Necromunda Cawdor Gang and I'm planning out a color scheme for them. I was thinking of doing a yellow as their primary color but I've never used much yellow before. I remember it being a really tricky color back in the day does anyone have any suggestions for how best to do this? One that I found online was to either paint yellow over a pink base coat or to shade yellow with a pink wash, does anyone have any experience with this?
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Jan 25, 2020 18:49
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Finished up this angry fella:
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Jan 25, 2020 22:25
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R0ckfish posted:The water finally dried on this broodlord: This owns, really dig the skin tone. Is that just Carroburg crimson over Rakarth flesh or something? Has a subtle brown-ish tint to it that really pulls it together.
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Jan 25, 2020 23:21
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:This owns, really dig the skin tone. Is that just Carroburg crimson over Rakarth flesh or something? Has a subtle brown-ish tint to it that really pulls it together. Its thinned carroburg over ushabti bone, thanks!
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Jan 26, 2020 02:36
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I've done 'regular' plastic and metal minis - did my first mini made of resin and, um, are all all like this? I wasn't prepared for how much cleaning up it needed and how extremely delicate/brittle it was compared to others. 
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Jan 26, 2020 03:50
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Resin can be really hit and miss, but IMO metal is worse to paint. Some resin is basically the same as plastic. So probably a bad one there.
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Jan 26, 2020 03:56
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Dienes posted:I've done 'regular' plastic and metal minis - did my first mini made of resin and, um, are all all like this? I wasn't prepared for how much cleaning up it needed and how extremely delicate/brittle it was compared to others. Yeah, there's a reason people hate resin. It's easily the biggest pain in the rear end of the common miniature materials to model; resin sculpts often look great, but GW-style plastics are also incredibly detailed, more durable, and don't have as many manufacturing defects.
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Jan 26, 2020 03:58
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I'll take resin over metal any day.
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Jan 26, 2020 04:35
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i've picked up a partly painted model of the old fat genestealer patriarch from rogue trader days. whats the best way to strip the paint off this thing without damaging it? Communist Thoughts fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Jan 26, 2020 |
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Jan 26, 2020 04:45
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Communist Thoughts posted:i've picked up a partly painted model of the old fat genestealer patriarch from rogue trader days. Soak it in a bowl of simple green for a few days, scrubbing it with an old toothbrush once a day If its metal you could probably use like acetone or turpentine and it'll go faster but simple green works too and is safer
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Jan 26, 2020 05:22
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Any hobby people in nyc know where I can get Vallejo metal color duralumin and steel, or the metal color line in general? Amazon has them at a big markup, and miniatures market is out of stock.
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Jan 26, 2020 05:43
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Communist Thoughts posted:i've picked up a partly painted model of the old fat genestealer patriarch from rogue trader days. Simple green / purple power followed by isopropyl alcohol (at least 95%, preferably 97% if you can find it) has served me well for stripping old metal stuff. Heard it's fine for plastics too but I've never tried. Scrub it down afterwards with a firm toothbrush and you'll get 99% of the paint off except for stuff trapped in the deepest crevices. Once in a while I'll run into some weird enamel paint or something that just doesn't want to come off no matter what, but it always ends up thin enough that you can prime over it without any issues.
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Jan 26, 2020 05:51
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Simple green / purple power followed by isopropyl alcohol (at least 95%, preferably 97% if you can find it) has served me well for stripping old metal stuff. Heard it's fine for plastics too but I've never tried. Scrub it down afterwards with a firm toothbrush and you'll get 99% of the paint off except for stuff trapped in the deepest crevices. Once in a while I'll run into some weird enamel paint or something that just doesn't want to come off no matter what, but it always ends up thin enough that you can prime over it without any issues. If it's metal you can skip all the intermediate steps and dunk it in acetone.
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Jan 26, 2020 06:20
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unfortunately, some of GW's best sculpts are metal only, Kasrkin for example are my favorite IG models by far and the old metal Daemon Prince that came out in 4th or 5th edition was just perfect, the metal bloodletters with goat heads looked great too despite being less dynamic than the newer ones every metal model I painted back in the day would have corners bared of paint because the primer just never adhered well enough Filthy Hans fucked around with this message at 06:42 on Jan 26, 2020 |
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Jan 26, 2020 06:37
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My Maleceptor has finished drying, they are a big brain fella.
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Jan 26, 2020 13:52
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R0ckfish posted:My Maleceptor has finished drying, they are a big brain fella. Holy smokes that looks good.
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Jan 26, 2020 17:07
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No. 1 Apartheid Fan posted:Yeah, there's a reason people hate resin. It's easily the biggest pain in the rear end of the common miniature materials to model; resin sculpts often look great, but GW-style plastics are also incredibly detailed, more durable, and don't have as many manufacturing defects. I think maybe the biggest reason people hate resin is because the resin they're most likely to deal with is finecast, which is legit garbage. There's plenty of resin out there with extremely high quality casts that are great to work with, although requiring super glue rather then plastic cement means it'll never go together quite as easily as plastic. But yeah, the barrier to entry for resin casting is something like "a few hundred dollars and a garage" so the range of quality is extremely wide between maker to maker.
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Jan 26, 2020 17:29
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thanks for the paint stripping advice guys and gals, is there a way I can stop paint coming off of the metal model for when I'm painting it? also sorry if this is the wrong thread for it, but does anyone know where I can get a good warhams scale model of a butcher? the closest i can find is this guy https://elementgames.co.uk/wargames-and-miniatures/warmachine/malifaux/the-guild/butcher my GF got me some genestealer cultists and I'm making them up to be unionised slaughterhouse workers
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Jan 26, 2020 18:59
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deadking posted:I got given a box of the Necromunda Cawdor Gang and I'm planning out a color scheme for them. I was thinking of doing a yellow as their primary color but I've never used much yellow before. I remember it being a really tricky color back in the day does anyone have any suggestions for how best to do this? One that I found online was to either paint yellow over a pink base coat or to shade yellow with a pink wash, does anyone have any experience with this? Basecoat pink orange or brown (or whatever) depending on the warmth/coolness you want for the yellow. Then thin a yellow paint with yellow ink and do a few layers till its where you want it. You could also underpaint the full shade range with those stronger tones and glaze with yellow for a broader range of value.
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Jan 26, 2020 19:23
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R0ckfish posted:My Maleceptor has finished drying, they are a big brain fella. Simple, but ruthlessly clean and effectively executed. He looks great. Do you use water effects often? Do you have a recommendation or know a good primer for using it?
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Jan 26, 2020 21:25
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Dr. Red Ranger posted:Simple, but ruthlessly clean and effectively executed. He looks great. I use vallejo still water and it is fairly simple, my big suggestion is that if you want dynamic water while being lazy is to sculpt it into the river bed with sculptamold or something similar. Once the water effects are on, it looks deeper then it is while having ripples and such. The other thing is to use a dam at the edges of the water for the main pour, then later on dab a bit on with a spatula like tool to the water on the dam without everything flowing out. One last thing, always do the water before grass or anything or you will regret it. 
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Jan 26, 2020 21:46
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R0ckfish posted:I use vallejo still water and it is fairly simple, my big suggestion is that if you want dynamic water while being lazy is to sculpt it into the river bed with sculptamold or something similar. Once the water effects are on, it looks deeper then it is while having ripples and such. The other thing is to use a dam at the edges of the water for the main pour, then later on dab a bit on with a spatula like tool to the water on the dam without everything flowing out. One last thing, always do the water before grass or anything or you will regret it. Thanks! Does it take color well? If I wanted it to have a dirty or sickly green tint to it, would you mix it with a color or just paint the stream floor that way?
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Jan 26, 2020 21:59
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Communist Thoughts posted:also sorry if this is the wrong thread for it, but does anyone know where I can get a good warhams scale model of a butcher? It will take conversion, but this Chaos Cultist w heavy stubber might be a good start:  There's also a whole guildball team of butchers IIRC, but I can't vouch for the figures.
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Jan 26, 2020 22:24
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Dr. Red Ranger posted:Thanks! Does it take color well? If I wanted it to have a dirty or sickly green tint to it, would you mix it with a color or just paint the stream floor that way? Mixing it with very very little paint works fine to tint it. It literally takes like a drop or two depending on how much water effect you’re using.
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Jan 26, 2020 22:26
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Communist Thoughts posted:thanks for the paint stripping advice guys and gals, is there a way I can stop paint coming off of the metal model for when I'm painting it? Theres the "junior" model in the wargames foundry "street violence" range ("The Family" pack, if this doesnt link correctly). Warning, in this link there is also a NSFW miniature ("Ma Viscera") https://www.wargamesfoundry.com/collections/street-violence/products/sv025-the-family
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Jan 26, 2020 22:36
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Communist Thoughts posted:thanks for the paint stripping advice guys and gals, is there a way I can stop paint coming off of the metal model for when I'm painting it? This might work https://www.nobleknight.com/P/2147684411/Butcher https://www.aenorminiatures.com/en/shop/butcher
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Jan 27, 2020 03:19
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How much space do you need for an airbrush? I have a small desk and apartment, and I’m wondering if I should wait until I have more space available to get one.
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Jan 27, 2020 05:00
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Verisimilidude posted:How much space do you need for an airbrush? I have a small desk and apartment, and I’m wondering if I should wait until I have more space available to get one. Not much, I have a small apartment and use my airbrush on the balcony in summer, and near the open window when otherwise and I have no complaints.
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Jan 27, 2020 05:07
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For some dumb reason I've mostly painted finished models that were fully assembled. For some models its fine, but for some I've no doubt made things harder for myself that way. I did a lot of work on painting Kaptin Badrukk tonight, and I'm doing sub-assembly painting for the first time since he's an important model for my team. He's only got a head and bosspole so there's not even much sub-assembly, but just having the head super-glued to a toothpick makes it pretty easy to work on the head by itself, and painting the body with no head is way easier. Part of the issue is I'm usually rushing to get models table-worthy so I can play, and then trying to improve the details later, so that usually means fully assembling them. But now I only rarely play so I feel less pressured to rush to assemble everything. Need to wrap up the Kaptin but I have a feeling this is gonna be my best paint job yet! 
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Jan 27, 2020 07:52
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I just put together the techmarine gunner for the Thunderfire Cannon. I did not do subassemblies. I am soon to be full of regret and woe. Don't be like me, people. Be like Zaphod. Do subassemblies.
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Jan 27, 2020 08:15
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I basecoated a Novamarine and did sub-assemblies for the first time because I thought it would help me paint that quartered color scheme, which it totally did. So yeah, be like Zaphod.
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Jan 27, 2020 08:20
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My name is inscrutable horse, and I didn't do a sub-assembly. That's why my St. Celestine model is now awaiting a strip-dip, because I can't reach all the necessary places to paint what I had planned. Be like Zaphod.
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Jan 27, 2020 13:42
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I always feel weird for doing sub assemblies since I keep seeing people painting models fully assembled and just balk at that idea. Granted I probably go overboard with mine because I'd hate knowing there are parts I wasn't able to paint and if you look at a very precise angle you'd be able to see grey plastic or primer.
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Jan 27, 2020 13:56
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I don't do sub assemblies because I don't get around to painting stuff until years after I bought and built it No shame club
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Jan 27, 2020 14:20
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... the right tool for the job When doing my Howling Griffons I use assemblies because the hard part is all masking. When doing Beastmen ... gently caress it. They are dirty-assed savages. Who cares!? Think about the model: * What is going to be the hard part? * How much is using assemblies going to cost you in time? That's all I do. Edit: I also don't play the game, so there is no rush to get dudes standing up. dexefiend fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Jan 27, 2020 |
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Jan 27, 2020 14:23
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Cooked Auto posted:I always feel weird for doing sub assemblies since I keep seeing people painting models fully assembled and just balk at that idea. Granted I probably go overboard with mine because I'd hate knowing there are parts I wasn't able to paint and if you look at a very precise angle you'd be able to see grey plastic or primer.
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Jan 27, 2020 14:25
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I'm a degenerate who pipettes brown wash into places the brush doesn't go that isn't usually viewable. Just looks like a shadow. Usually.
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Jan 27, 2020 14:25
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jesus WEP posted:im certain this is half the reason people prime black Not wrong to be honest.
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Jan 27, 2020 14:37
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jesus WEP posted:im certain this is half the reason people prime black Guilty
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Jan 27, 2020 14:48
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