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Mikey Purp
Sep 30, 2008

I realized it's gotten out of control. I realize I'm out of control.
What's fun is the new GW slaves to darkness models for AoS, where they are monopose and sliced in weird ways where it's actually really difficult to get them into subassemblies that make any sense.

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Werix
Sep 13, 2012

#acolyte GM of 2013
I do not do subassemblies and I primed I'm grey not black. So I have all these to paint:

Note, this was before I primed them.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

I've got the Canonness from the Sisters Box and the Jackal Alphus ready to be primed once I get their head swaps in the mail and they've got a couple of somewhat clunky sub assemblies going on. Especially the sniper itself is weird because I had to keep the legs separate as it turns out there is a tab on the side of the bike that one leg needs to fit in. Which I can't just build it together and put it on the bike once I'm done.

Creamfilled
May 11, 2007

???
I have no idea how you're supposed to paint Skitarii without doing subassemblies. I followed along with the GW video but I cannot for the life of me get the brush in to do the interior of the robes or the legs without getting paint over the place. And if I paint I'm half-temped to leave them black because I'm certainly not looking up my model's skirts and I don't know who else will be.

Ben Nerevarine
Apr 14, 2006
Speaking of subassemblies, I bought a Skorne titan and it'll be my first metal mini. Is there anything I should keep in mind versus working with plastic? Also, the gaps between the pieces are kind of massive, how do you paint subassemblies when there will be a ton of green stuff that has to also be primed and painted after putting the subassemblies together? What's the order of operations?

Grundma
Mar 26, 2007

DOG controls your destiny. Seek out three items of his favor and then seek his shrine.
I had a nice relaxing painting day this weekend and got a lot done. First up is the box of Orks my lovely TG Secret Santa sent me. These guys are going to be half of a kill team. Lootas dont look to great rules wise in KT but they are too fun looking to not have some.


Then I painted up the new LOTR Rohan house and an Ogre from the Feast of Bones box to attack it



Its got me excited to do more painting in the near future. I think next up will be some more Orks to round out the kill team and then more Ogres

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(
I've never enjoyed painting anything less. I'd normally do gradients, edge highlighting and fix up mistakes but why bother? Felt like painting garbage. Just frayed poo poo, warping and casting imperfections all over it. Finecast blows. I was all excited to paint my lord kroak but im eyeballing him suspiciously now. You going to be a little resin nightmare too you loving frog?

Zaphod42
Sep 13, 2012

If there's anything more important than my ego around, I want it caught and shot now.

Werix posted:

I do not do subassemblies and I primed I'm grey not black. So I have all these to paint:

Note, this was before I primed them.

I've already assembled all my rubrics and now I'm gonna have to try to paint behind their guns, but I left Ahriman un-assembled because he seems super complicated

Good luck!

JackMann
Aug 11, 2010

Secure. Contain. Protect.
Fallen Rib

Ben Nerevarine posted:

Speaking of subassemblies, I bought a Skorne titan and it'll be my first metal mini. Is there anything I should keep in mind versus working with plastic? Also, the gaps between the pieces are kind of massive, how do you paint subassemblies when there will be a ton of green stuff that has to also be primed and painted after putting the subassemblies together? What's the order of operations?

Paint your subassemblies in your shadow colors. This will make sure that all of the bits are the color you need them to be at the end of the process. Hit everything up with some sealer. You can just go matte sealer at this point; you don't need a super strong seal yet.

Now put everything together. Prime any visible greenstuff and paint it in the appropriate shadow color.

Now anything that needs to be brought up to a midtone and highlight should be the parts that are reachable. Have fun!

Werix
Sep 13, 2012

#acolyte GM of 2013

Zaphod42 posted:

I've already assembled all my rubrics and now I'm gonna have to try to paint behind their guns, but I left Ahriman un-assembled because he seems super complicated

Good luck!

I didn't put ahriman on the disc since I want to make sure it is painted well, but I don't think he'll be that complicated. If I would have done sub assemblies on anything it would have been the rubrics and the exalted sorcerers.

I guess I've never worried about sub assemblies since those hard to reach areas will also not be super visible anyway. So it kinda feels like a waste to paint everything nice on the torso when a warp flamer will just cover it anyway.

The terminators will be easy to paint, and I'm going to try the aethermatic blue hiding in the picture on the Tzaangors.

head58
Apr 1, 2013

Ben Nerevarine posted:

Speaking of subassemblies, I bought a Skorne titan and it'll be my first metal mini. Is there anything I should keep in mind versus working with plastic? Also, the gaps between the pieces are kind of massive, how do you paint subassemblies when there will be a ton of green stuff that has to also be primed and painted after putting the subassemblies together? What's the order of operations?

The metal Skorne Titan doesn’t need subassembly- it’s pose is wide open so you can just build it complete and paint. I made many of them myself and never needed to worry about it.

Zaphod42
Sep 13, 2012

If there's anything more important than my ego around, I want it caught and shot now.

Werix posted:

I guess I've never worried about sub assemblies since those hard to reach areas will also not be super visible anyway. So it kinda feels like a waste to paint everything nice on the torso when a warp flamer will just cover it anyway.

Yeah that's the thing. But I often find there's like, some parts of what's behind the gun that I do want to paint, even if only a bit of it is visible, and then that gets hard. But you can just leave it black / gold or whatever.

Count_Brass
Jul 16, 2009
Finished off my Apothecary, learned a bunch doing this one! I really need to buy a camera, what's a decent recommendation?

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



Count_Brass posted:

Finished off my Apothecary, learned a bunch doing this one! I really need to buy a camera, what's a decent recommendation?



sexy as hell

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Count_Brass posted:

Finished off my Apothecary, learned a bunch doing this one! I really need to buy a camera, what's a decent recommendation?



That's really dope. If you don't already have a lightbox type setup and a relatively new smartphone known for a good camera I'd probably steer you in that direction.

But perhaps others have done point and shoot advice, I only know a bit about like full frame cameras and such.

Kabuki Shipoopi
Jun 22, 2007

If I fall, you don't get the head, right? If you lose the head, you're fucked!

Count_Brass posted:

Finished off my Apothecary, learned a bunch doing this one! I really need to buy a camera, what's a decent recommendation?



Jesus poo poo. I have no idea how you guys are so loving flawless at this! I know years of practice and such, but it's still no less astounding to see. Nice work.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
30K crosspost. This project took me about a year:

Ben Nerevarine
Apr 14, 2006

JackMann posted:

Paint your subassemblies in your shadow colors. This will make sure that all of the bits are the color you need them to be at the end of the process. Hit everything up with some sealer. You can just go matte sealer at this point; you don't need a super strong seal yet.

Now put everything together. Prime any visible greenstuff and paint it in the appropriate shadow color.

Now anything that needs to be brought up to a midtone and highlight should be the parts that are reachable. Have fun!

Good to know, that makes sense. I now understand why people might choose to prime black in cases where subassemblage is advisable.

head58 posted:

The metal Skorne Titan doesn’t need subassembly- it’s pose is wide open so you can just build it complete and paint. I made many of them myself and never needed to worry about it.

Doubly good to know. Thanks!

Seldom Posts
Jul 4, 2010

Grimey Drawer

BULBASAUR posted:

30K crosspost. This project took me about a year:

:wow:

Those are really nice to look at.

Paddyo
Aug 3, 2007

Count_Brass posted:

Finished off my Apothecary, learned a bunch doing this one! I really need to buy a camera, what's a decent recommendation?



That looks awesome. Really nice, crisp white and a cool contrast withe the red robe and base. Seconding a light box. Makes a huge difference and makes a regular old iphone photo pop.

Gaussian
Sep 20, 2001

I'll give you a box of chocolates if you kill me.




Nap Ghost

Count_Brass posted:

Finished off my Apothecary, learned a bunch doing this one! I really need to buy a camera, what's a decent recommendation?



This is amazing, great job! I'm debating attempting to paint the new Sisters Hospitaller in a similar dominant white scheme. It feels like medics should be in white and red.

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



Count_Brass posted:

Finished off my Apothecary, learned a bunch doing this one! I really need to buy a camera, what's a decent recommendation?



I've got a technique question. How did you do the straps around his neck? I can never get things like that to look good. Is it just paint the red areas, then the front parts of the straps? If so, how do you get the sides of those straps, or do you not bother and let the wash take care of it?

Zaphod42
Sep 13, 2012

If there's anything more important than my ego around, I want it caught and shot now.

BULBASAUR posted:

30K crosspost. This project took me about a year:

Dark Mechanicus?

loving cool conversions dude

Count_Brass
Jul 16, 2009

Funzo posted:

I've got a technique question. How did you do the straps around his neck?

For those I did the cloth underneath first then based the entirety of the straps (including the sides) with corvus black and highlighted with grey seer. Getting the sides right is just a question of a good brush and practice really. You can definitely get away with letting washes cover them generally however I didn't use any washes on the cloth for this so I just had to be very careful. It also helps that it's two dark colours next to each other so it looks neater than it is.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat

Zaphod42 posted:

Dark Mechanicus?

loving cool conversions dude

Thanks man! Yep. Dark Mech. I'm going to take some proper pictures in the coming weeks

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



Count_Brass posted:

For those I did the cloth underneath first then based the entirety of the straps (including the sides) with corvus black and highlighted with grey seer. Getting the sides right is just a question of a good brush and practice really. You can definitely get away with letting washes cover them generally however I didn't use any washes on the cloth for this so I just had to be very careful. It also helps that it's two dark colours next to each other so it looks neater than it is.

You mean it's all skill and technique? I was really hoping for one weird trick that would make painters hate me.
Seriously though, thanks that helps a lot.

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



x-poastin but also to ask a question: what setting solution do people use for decals? I just used water and the edges are fairly obvious but I'd also never put decals on anything before

Cat Face Joe posted:










dont talk to me or my son ever again


Sharks Dont Sleep
Mar 4, 2009

In pairing luxury automobiles with large predatory felines we have achieved reality ahead of schedule.

Cat Face Joe posted:

x-poastin but also to ask a question: what setting solution do people use for decals? I just used water and the edges are fairly obvious but I'd also never put decals on anything before

Mr. mark setter or micro set.

And you should start with Mr. Mark Softer or Micro Sol.

Sharks Dont Sleep fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Jan 27, 2020

Miles O'Brian
May 22, 2006

All we have to lose is our chains
That apothecary is mindblowing in its precision.

I spent all evening painting and repainting test schemes for my death guard. Got lazy with the metallics in the end because I got bored of wrestling with runelord brass and runefang steel.

Learned a lot and I kinda like the base colours but I don't feel like I did the best that I could. Almost feel like I'd have been better off just using contrast or something as I'm not good enough to get the increase in quality from the increase in time.


Edit; apparently I don't know how to get direct IMG links from Imgur on mobile

http://imgur.com/a/jmwZcMR

Miles O'Brian fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Jan 27, 2020

Bodanarko
May 29, 2009
Read through hundreds of pages of this thread in preparation for beginning to paint, here’s my first 7 minis! Mostly finished, considering doing some cobblestones or something else on the cultist bases. My photography and lighting is butt but I promise the cragheart’s armor is way contrasted with his body irl

Hixson
Mar 27, 2009

Cat Face Joe posted:

x-poastin but also to ask a question: what setting solution do people use for decals? I just used water and the edges are fairly obvious but I'd also never put decals on anything before

Seconding micro-sol. I use water to get the transfer off the paper and micro-sol to form it to the surface of the mini

Zaphod42
Sep 13, 2012

If there's anything more important than my ego around, I want it caught and shot now.
Most of the way through my Kaptin Badrukk



Need to do edge highlighting and finish the head

Pretty happy with the way all the metallics are looking, proper rich pirate

JackMann
Aug 11, 2010

Secure. Contain. Protect.
Fallen Rib
Yeah, microsol and microset have made a huge difference in how my decals look. I've actually had people ask if I freehanded the Iron Hands symbols on my dudes, which was 100% due to how good the decals looked, because it sure as hell wasn't based on how well I painted the rest of the models.

Heroic Yoshimitsu
Jan 15, 2008

Bodanarko posted:

Read through hundreds of pages of this thread in preparation for beginning to paint, here’s my first 7 minis! Mostly finished, considering doing some cobblestones or something else on the cultist bases. My photography and lighting is butt but I promise the cragheart’s armor is way contrasted with his body irl



Those look super cool. Where did you get those cultists?

Bodanarko
May 29, 2009

Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:

Those look super cool. Where did you get those cultists?

3D printed in resin from this model

Comstar
Apr 20, 2007

Are you happy now?
Thank you to everyone who posts in this thread. It's given me lots of encouragement. And oh god, do I need that. Because my painting is not anything to be proud of. This is only half the colours of the base paint. I need to do half of the other colours and then give the various colours a quick and very dirty wash.



My first Brigade for Field of Glory Napoleonic 2nd edition. The 21st Portuguese Infantry Regiment.


From this distance it's hard to tell how bad it is maybe?


Very bad


I think 18mm is too small for me to paint

AB British Peninsula army figures from Eureka Miniatures in Melbourne.

Bases are Magnetic ones from Olympic games in QLD, the'll be battalion stands, 4-6 for each brigade.

Citadel Base paints. I really should get some contrast paints instead.

So far half painted with base colours. I'm up to the 2nd blue pot for the water skin. With my poor eyesight I find it very hard to paint the small parts, and only my Citadel Starting brush is any good, and it's fraying now.

They are a lot harder to paint than my old 40K Imperial Guard army, though I can paint a lot quicker.

I've broken off one bayonet so far :(

I have 10 brigades to do, and less 6 weeks to buy and paint them before my first Tournament. I think I'll be borrowing an army for it still.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

Comstar posted:

my painting is not anything to be proud of.

:wrong:

Looks like you're making progress and discovering. Be proud of that!

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Yeah honestly those look great by me at that scale. Paint those bayonets etc, and slap a wash on them and you've got it nailed.

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



This might go better in the photography forum, but I have an older Nikon camera I don't really use, and I was thinking of just setting it up to take pictures of minis and models. For the DSLR users, is there a good but cheap lens I should find?

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Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



Sharks Dont Sleep posted:

Mr. mark setter or micro set.

And you should start with Mr. Mark Softer or Micro Sol.

Hixson posted:

Seconding micro-sol. I use water to get the transfer off the paper and micro-sol to form it to the surface of the mini

JackMann posted:

Yeah, microsol and microset have made a huge difference in how my decals look.

:wave:

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