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Vintage RC? Extremely my poo poo. Yep, that looks like one OG gold-tub RC10, plus two newer tubs which were probably for the RC10T (I'd say RC10DS but I don't think anyone actually bought that). Associated actually did a re-issue of the RC10 recentlyish, I think that helped the spare parts situation a lot. I can't say I've looked closely though since I haven't bothered trying to get my dad's gold-tub RC10 working again. I think at one point the parts for the original non-Stealth transmission were hard to get. My dad also had that exact Tekin charger. Keep it if you really want to run NiCd or NiMH packs, but if you don't have an old school ESC and brushed motor to run in there, I'd just go all new and run lipos. The stuff coming out of China today has clearly been built to a price point compared to old high end gear (fit/finish/tolerances) but feature-wise the cheap 2.4GHz Flysky/Turnigy radios are awesome.
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Jan 27, 2020 19:25
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Cool, thanks. I definitely, at least for now, just want cheap bash-it-around-the-yard-and-street fun. Nothing fancy. I'd expect the foam tires to disintegrate immediately, not to mention that they're inappropriate for outdoor use, so will probably need to look for something, there. Definitely a back burner project, though. edit: um, holy poo poo. Is it really worth this much?: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Team-Associated-RC10-Gold-Pan-6010-Rare-Upgrades/163671834739?hash=item261b9a0073:g:Uh4AAOSwupBcyKmd Same dude is selling several of them at the same price. Even this seems high, but I'm not in touch with the vintage RC market, so... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Team-Associated-RC10-A-Stamp-Gold-Pan-Chassis-AE/264610039971 Darchangel fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Jan 28, 2020 |
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Jan 28, 2020 00:58
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Crap I posted mine in the wrong thread, meant to do it here. Surprised they're worth that much but viiiintage I just took a quick look at lipo batteries and chargers and you can get both for around or a little under $100 plus whatever connectors to make it work. One thing I did notice was that you should have a low voltage cutoff in the esc and I don't think the old ones have that though it's been a million years since I looked at mine. The prices for a brushless motor/controller are also super tempting compared to what they went for when I was messing with RC cars. I remember there was a car in magazines that did like 80mph with one back then and it was a huge deal when just the other day I saw a modern one on the hoonigan channel that looked like it did 60mph in one second
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Jan 28, 2020 02:09
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I personally wouldn't put a crazy hot motor in it - I don't think those early transmissions are known for their strength, and a new brushless setup makes the kind of power they could only dream of when that car was new.
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Jan 28, 2020 14:57
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Thanks guys, I'll look around. I have a friend who was into RC stuff - I'll see if he's got any spare radios, motors, etc. he wants to unload cheap.
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Jan 28, 2020 18:15
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IOwnCalculus posted:I personally wouldn't put a crazy hot motor in it - I don't think those early transmissions are known for their strength, and a new brushless setup makes the kind of power they could only dream of when that car was new. Hah not in mine, it has a slipper clutch and it would smoke that in less time than it took to do 60mph
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Jan 28, 2020 18:25
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Figured I'd post this in here instead of PM'ing you on FB, since you check this more often.  Want some headlights for your Outback? I just finished the JDM swap on mine. The housings I have are recently polished with a couple of layers of Meguiar's Keep Clear Headlight Coating, Osram Nightbreaker Laser H1 bulbs for the low beams, Wagner 9011 for the high beams. The catch is no wiring, dust caps, or turn/parking lights come with them (I had to steal the wiring to wire in my JAY-DEE-EMM stuff), and the mounting tab for the old 3 pin harnesses are broken off in their mounts. Bulbs are all less than a month old. The housings don't look brand new, but they look pretty drat good (TBH they look better than my fresh off the boat JDM lights, except the bulb cover for the low beam is kinda burnt on these). If you want them, PM me your shipping address on FB and I'll get them out to you. Or I'll just bring them with me next time I head up to DFW. Darchangel posted:Three Team Associated RC10 (I believe) chassis, one with all the suspension, a servo, and a transmission/diff and foam tires, a pair of wheels with dirt tires, two Futaba NiCad battery chargers for radio batteries, and a Tekin charger. Holy poo poo, that takes me WAY back! Let me know if you ever want to get rid of those. I haven't kept up with RC since, uh, before some of our regulars were born, but those were the poo poo back then. Archie Comics even did a sponsored series of comics called Archie's RC Racers around 1989 - pretty sure I still have a few issues around.
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Jan 28, 2020 20:38
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STR posted:Figured I'd post this in here instead of PM'ing you on FB, since you check this more often. Yeah, I'm pretty terrible at MyFaceSpaceBooking. quote:Want some headlights for your Outback? I just finished the JDM swap on mine. The housings I have are recently polished with a couple of layers of Meguiar's Keep Clear Headlight Coating, Osram Nightbreaker Laser H1 bulbs for the low beams, Wagner 9011 for the high beams. The catch is no wiring, dust caps, or turn/parking lights come with them (I had to steal the wiring to wire in my JAY-DEE-EMM stuff), and the mounting tab for the old 3 pin harnesses are broken off in their mounts. Bulbs are all less than a month old. The housings don't look brand new, but they look pretty drat good (TBH they look better than my fresh off the boat JDM lights, except the bulb cover for the low beam is kinda burnt on these). Mayyybe? I don't *really* need the housings - morethanjake did a great job polishing the ones on the car (though I should hit them with the coating I have, now that I think about it...) - but hey, new bulbs! And I can throw the housings in the shed as backups. Sure, why not. If you want to ship I can pay for shipping, or, like you say, just bring them up. quote:Holy poo poo, that takes me WAY back! Let me know if you ever want to get rid of those. Will do. I've had this stuff sitting around in the garage for at least 10-15 years, I think. Moved it from a dilapidated cardboard box to a plastic tub with a lid, at least. Should stop gathering dirt and bugs, now.  edit: trying to upgrade everything worth storing long-term to some sort of durable box or tub with a lid, for stackability, and increased resistance to damage. I just almost completely filled a 45-qt (48L) tub in the shed with AC adapters. How the hell have I acquired 45 quarts of wall-warts and power bricks? (And still never have the right one...) The box of power cords (in which the AC adapters coexisted, but overfilled) is a 50-something quart tub, and is now only about 2/3 full. Then there's tubs for speaker cabling, auto power wiring (14ga and up), general auto wire (16 ga and down), plumbing stuff, car stereo install stuff, car stereo head units, speakers, wiring split loom, Air conditioning stuff, RCA cables, and more, and that's just on one side of the shed. The other side is the tubs of parts for specific cars. I can say I've been very happy to have this stuff at times. Being able to have this stuff on hand has saved time and money on occasion. It's not hoarding if it's all organised, and actually useful, right? Darchangel fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Jan 28, 2020 |
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Jan 28, 2020 22:08
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Darchangel posted:It's not hoarding if it's all organised, and actually useful, right? 
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Jan 29, 2020 06:57
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Darchangel posted:Mayyybe? Cool. Like I said, they're missing the dust caps and sockets/wiring, but the bulbs are there. I'll try and figure out how much shipping will be. Luckily I have the box and packing materials that my new housings came in! They're not perfect, but they cleaned up pretty nicely for the ~10 minutes I spent on each side. They weren't the worst I've dealt with to begin with. But definitely coat the ones you have ASAP! fake edit: okay I do have the dust caps, but I butchered them for the wiring, so they have to be replaced. They'll be fine to keep the packing material out of the housings, and I can throw my JAY-DEE-EM sockets in to keep everything out of the side markers.
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Jan 29, 2020 07:05
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Thanks for STR posted:Cool. Like I said, they're missing the dust caps and sockets/wiring, but the bulbs are there. I'll try and figure out how much shipping will be. Luckily I have the box and packing materials that my new housings came in! Suits. I've got my originals. I can swap the electric bits if actual need to use the housings.
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Jan 29, 2020 18:59
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So looking at RC stuff on amazon looks like I can have my car up and running with just batteries! Well the other reason I put it away was I lost the 8AA battery holder for my transmitter and amazon has them for $8, then $35 for 2 4200mah 7.2 nimh batteries and looks like I can use my nicad charger for them. Gonna see what I can find for RC10 parts next but depending on what stuff you have already could have a running car for real cheap!
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Jan 30, 2020 23:25
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Sweet! And yeah, as far as I know, NiMH batteries can be charged with a NiCd charger with no issues. Last night, I built a thing:  Starting to look like something - can you guess?   How about now?    1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass 442 W-30 And yes, the wheels are different on each side. They're reversible, and I'm not sure which I prefer, so... Some of you may remember this model - someone posted a picture of a LEGO used car dealership with a bunch of muscle cars in the Awesome Things thread. I spotted this particular one and tracked down the maker, and discovered that he had the design up for purchase on Rebrickable. I bought it, then used Rebrickable and Bricklink to purchase the needed bricks, which finally all got here on Tuesday. Cost me about $35 - $4 for the design, and right at $30 for the bricks, with shipping. Very clever design. He considered it important to get some of the identifying details right, and did a great job. The grills are perfect, and how he got the hood spear between the grills in there is nifty. Vertical taillights, sport mirrors, the dual exhaust, and of course, the overall curvy Cutlass shape really sell it. He's used some connections that LEGO would probably consider "illegal" so it would never be a production design, but so what? edit: He even put a pleated reclining bucket seat with headrest in there. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Jan 31, 2020 |
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Jan 31, 2020 16:31
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The pleated seat is such a cool detail, sweet ride! E: oh man this is exciting https://www.hobbytown.com/team-associated-rc10-parts/c3104 shy boy from chess club fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Jan 31, 2020 |
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Jan 31, 2020 21:31
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Oh, now you've got me looking at stuff. I mean: https://www.hobbytown.com/traxxas-trx4-traxx-all-terrain-track-set-4-tra8880/p975803 ...so how much is a TRX4? edit: oof. I'm not ready for how much this stuff costs. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Jan 31, 2020 |
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Jan 31, 2020 23:12
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Hah yeah I started looking at replacement parts for the RC10 and strayed when I saw a 77 Skyline body and and a chassis to put one on and had to slam the brakes quickly before it got out of hand. Sometimes I wish I was born rich instead of pretty
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Feb 1, 2020 03:08
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shy boy from chess club posted:Hah yeah I started looking at replacement parts for the RC10 and strayed when I saw a 77 Skyline body and and a chassis to put one on and had to slam the brakes quickly before it got out of hand. Sometimes I wish I was born rich instead of pretty Hey, at least you got one. Had our monthly RX-7 meet on Saturday.   Mine is still disassembled in my driveway. My AE86 is mercifully out of the picture, with the other non-RX-7s there. Is it any surprise that several of us with RX-7s and RX-8s show up in other cars because our rotaries are non-op? That black first gen with the red hood is kind of special. It's got a complete RX8 engine and ECU swap, and an FC RX-7 front subframe with rack and pinion under it to facilitate that, and get rid of the awful first-gen recirculating ball steering. Also gains 5-lug hubs. They put an aftermarket tunable RX-8 ECU in it right there in the parking lot to fix some issues of the OEM ECU getting upset about not being in its original home. It's also LOUD. The brown/grey/blue one next to it is even louder, in the way only a rotary can be. The white FC is an amazingly clean 20th Anniversary '88 Turbo II, with some tasteful upgrades. The blue '88 GXL next to it is also very clean, and 95% stock. The two FDs at the end are nicely modified. One can easily shoot fireballs thanks to anti-lag. I'm pretty sure my Toyota had the lowest horsepower in the entire parking lot, unless there was a motorcycle or an original Bug somewhere... Before the meet, I decided to actually wash the Corolla. The oxidation was getting out of hand. The car was turning white. Here's the hood half washed, before on the right, after on the left. It still looks like poo poo, but it looks like *better* poo poo.  May attempt a light color sand and buff, just to see what the spray paint does. Also hit the tires with some dressing, and some spray on Mother's Back-To-Black on some of the trim. Edit: I didn't take pictures because it was dark by the time I was done. In garage news, installed the last cabinet, to make some room on the floor.  It's difficult to access now, but the freezer will be moving, and the dryer will be going where the lower cabinet is, to make room for a utility sink over by the washing machine. I also added some pot hooks in the cupboard (no pics) since we had more pots than hooks. I was generous with the original spacing, which was unnecessary with pans - I just tightened that up and added 3 more hooks. Made the pots and pans cupboard a bit less chaotic. Then I tried to mow the lawn. this is the first time I've dragged the mower out this season. This mower has been surprisingly reliable - it's an MTD with an old-school sidevalve Briggs from about 2000 that's had a few mods done along the way (taller handlebars, high wheels in the back, new drive wheels) but is still pretty much original. Doesn't smoke, usually starts pretty easy. This time, it *pulled* really easily. Way too easily. I pretty much knew what happened - it's done it before. Pulled the valve spring cover, and, yep:  (You'll probably need to click through to get the video) Valve stem or pushrood are sticking in the guide. I've fixed it before. The oil gets sticky after it sits for a bit sometimes - just needs a squirt of fresh oil, and work the valve in and out with a screwdriver. However, this time I managed to dislodge the spring keeper. Took me an hour of dicking around with various pliers, screwdrivers, and pry tools to get that bastard back in there. Once I did, though:  [url=http://i.imgur.com/OnidDsrl.mp4\Direct link to video[/url] It started up great after a few squirts on the priming bulb, and mowed like a champ. In the dark, with me wearing a headlamp, because it got dark while I was screwing with the thing, and the next available daylight would be next weekend, so off I went. I've got exterior lights and a streetlight right across the street, so it wasn't terrible. The back yard is darker, but still not impossible, until I wasn't careful and hit the Catalpa stump back there and bent the blade. that finished that mowing job. I'll try to straighten it - it's less than one season old - but later. I was done for the evening. Some days. Bonus content: Saturday, a friend brought some stuff over. She's caring for her remaining parent, her dad, while dealing with MS herself, among other things, and is cleaning out their house. Her younger brother is being a dick and refusing to help with anything, moved away, and is also refusing to come pick up his stuff he left. So I now own this pile:  The AT-AT is a clue. That entire pile is vintage Star Wars toys. She tells me it's all in good shape, but is unsure if all the parts are there, since she doesn't really know what goes with what. The AT-AT is complete. The missing head cannon is somewhere in one of the boxes. That alone is worth $$, I think. I was never huge into the Star Wars toys, so I will likely sell all this. I advised her to do that, but between her dad and medical issues, she says she just does not have the time or energy to deal with selling it. Thinking about splitting the proceeds, though I bet she'll refuse and tell me to keep it all. Going to give my cousin, who once had *all* the SW stuff, first crack at it, then either the comics shop he works for, or one of the several vintage toy stores here in the DFW area. I just don't have the space. I have a stupid amount of toy I actually bought packed up as it is. I need like, a dozen Ikea Detolf display cabinets. Some day... Oh, she said that there's more she couldn't reach. Oy.
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Feb 3, 2020 20:22
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Darchangel, this is random, but would you mind taking a picture of the passenger corner of your front bumper on the Outback for me? I got a tow hook cover that's supposed to be for an 03-04, and it doesn't fit (it's close, but just a bit different). Color is also hilariously off. I'm trying to figure out if (a) my front bumper got replaced with a 00-02 bumper or (b) if there's a mid-year split. Mine's a super early 03 (last 6 of the VIN are 000074). I know the front and rear bumpers match each other in color, this is supposedly from a two tone Outback, and I thought all two tone Outbacks had the same color bumpers. Edit: took a closer look. It's definitely a 00-02 bumper cover on the 03-04 bar/fogs. No wonder the fogs look a bit off, they bent the brackets to make them fit.  
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Feb 4, 2020 |
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Feb 4, 2020 03:49
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I can, just to confirm, but yeah, that looks funky. BTW - all second gen Outbacks were two-tone, and always that grey on the lower, except in the last year, that grey was also available as the primary color, making the car monotone. There was one for sale locally to me recently, low miles, but the dealer wanted $LOL for it. Unrelated: Some cool stuff came in the mail!   Felix the rotor.  Old School Roatry13B1.com had a sale, so I finally bought myself a Felix for 1/2 price (they were out of the even larger one already) and a keychain for my '79. The "BRAP BRAP" key tag and sticker were bonuses added by the company. Sweet!
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Feb 4, 2020 23:07
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STR, I happen to have this in my Imgur gallery. Not the best angle for comparison, but yours doesn't look too different, damage aside:
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Feb 4, 2020 23:10
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Slightly different, but it looks like it's mostly the shape of the cutout around the fog lights. The tow hook cover on yours is definitely what showed up from eBay. edit: mine. you can see the tow hook cover is a bit larger on the 00-02 bumper, fog light cutout is just a touch different too. Same fog light, but I think the crash bar on an 03-04 is different and moves them forward slightly. It looks like the brackets on mine were bent to make the cover it fit over the fogs (hence why they're pointed down). I just looked at a video of a 03-04 fog light replacement, and the bolts aren't accessible at all (bumper is covering them). It also pops up on badvin as going through a salvage auction, though it has a clean title and wasn't noted as a salvage on carfax. (I don't want to spend the  for the full report, I just know it pops up with some info about it)
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:42 on Feb 5, 2020 |
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Feb 5, 2020 02:37
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... there's spring-loaded adjuster screws on the top of the fogs. Like on old school sealed beam headlights. They were turned all the way out, to the point that they were just barely threaded in.  Driver's side still needs replacement (lens is broken, though the light still works), but they actually do something besides light up the bumper now. Guessing whoever replaced the front bumper backed them way out with his dickbeaters and didn't bother screwing them back in. Now I'm just waiting for my new D2R bulbs. Driver's side is good and bright, passenger side is pretty dim and purple (they look fine when you look at the car, passenger side slightly dimmer, but when driving you can tell the passenger side is significantly dimmer). Found an eBay seller supposedly selling NOS Osram Xenarc bulbs (which is what Subaru used from the factory) for a reasonable price ($40 for a pair). Not gonna play around with cheap bulbs, I don't want to deal with constantly replacing them. These bulbs are up to 22 years old, they owe me nothing. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Feb 7, 2020 |
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Feb 7, 2020 16:44
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gently caress yeah, garage poo poo got done, despite a bit of moisture on Sunday. First, I made a thing to help make other things. Pile of wood:  Starting to look like... something?  A little bit cut off:  And then some on the other side:  What is it? You do this with it:  The thin bottom board was cut with the saw against the guide, so all you have to do is line up the edge of the bottom board with where you want to cut, and that's where it cuts. The skinny side is set up for the the short side of the saw's base. Handy as F. I did screw up a little. I neglected to make sure that the saw was perpendicular and/or against the angle stop. I cut it with the saw fully extended, and now I have to do that every time or it cuts just a little out from the base. I may make another, improved one. For one thing, I should use a thinner board for the upper guide. I had to bevel it to clear the blade height adjustment lock:  And the lock knob has to be tightened to horizontal or it won't clear regardless. I also turned the cabinet I installed last week 90 degrees:  It would have worked mostly fine the other way, once the freezer was relocated, , but the door was hitting the wall-mounted speaker above the freezer, and would have been a little bit more difficult to get to regardless. I may flip the door to open the other way, but it works OK as is. Bonus is that I can use the cabinet *now*, before the freezer is moved. Now on to *using* that new tool. Actually, that was a preview above. I've got a lot of stuff in the ubiquitous Akro-Mils-style hanging bins:    These last ones don't hang, and I'll probably just leave them as they are. Those were a great find at a swap meet - actual hardware store shelf bins. I found another set of those on FB Marketplace, but of course the guy never answered my message. Anyway, I wanted to find a more space-efficient way to use those bins. They're only about 6" deep, so a lot of stuff ends up in front of them on the 18" deep shelf, there, which of course has to be moved to get to the lower bins. I ran across this idea on Pinterest:  and fell in love with it. A couple variations:   If I ever have a $100K or so to spend on my garage/shop... There are a few home-brew methods for creating the rails for hanging the bins, but I ran across the official Akro-Mils louvered steel panels on Amazon a while back. They're $115 for a 4-pack of the 18" x 19" panels now, but when I found them, they were under $40. I can only assume that they were mistakenly priced at the "each" price for the 4-pack. It took a month for them to ship, but they didn't say anything or try to back out. At that price, it was a no-brainer. Any of the DIY methods would cost as much just in materials. Here's one of the panels (grey) next to a Northern Tool bin set with it's own mounting panel for comparison (black). The Northern piece is about half the sheet steel thickness, but should work fine, since it uses punched louvers that are still attached on the sides, rather than the free-hanging ones on the Akro-Mils. The advantage to the A-M one, of course, is that the bins can be slid sideways, and positioned anywhere along the row, and you can use wider bins, while on the Northern one, the bins can only go exactly where the louver is, and they have to be narrower than the actual louver. I bought the Northern set for the bins (it was on a good sale), and won't be using the mounting plate anyway. The Northern Tool bins:  The red bins I already have are slightly shorter than the blue Northern bins. I built my storage solution to handle the larger yellow ones. The Northern bins, along with one of my existing ones (most of which are *also* Northern, just a different set with the free-standing rack pictured earlier):  Besides the Pinterest pics, and others found searching around a bit, I was inspired by Jaded Burnout's pullout tool storage panels for his workbench. I was trying to figure out a clean, less bulky way to make the drawer slides work, thinking that they had to be bottom-mounted, and they only really work when vertical. They won't support near as much weight when mounted flat to the bottom. I had never considered that literally all the weight would be on the one side anyway, and I could put both glides arrayed vertically, as he did with his panels! For my needs, the bottom of the drawer is just to catch stuff that falls. So I'm going the same route. Since the panels are only 18" wide, I only need 18"-20" glides (and I'll have a bonus hidey hole behind the drawer, since the bench is around 30" deep.) I'm loading these up with a bunch of nuts, bolts, and other fasteners, so I went overkill and bought 250 lb/pair 18" glides. In retrospect, the 22" version for $2 more would have given me some breathing room. For the next drawer, I think I'll use the Amazon Basics 100 lb./pair 20" glides I bought for the trash can project that got canceled. Regardless, I need somewhere to mount the glides. The sides of the workbench are outside of the legs, so I need a little cribbing: [url=https://imgur.com/Efk4mQZ]  Then I cut a bunch of stuff. OSB for all the inside bits, and a decent piece of plywood for the exposed front panel. All 1/2"  Some quality time with Titebond II and my brad nailer gets me this:   Note that the face is wider than the actual drawer, to hide the glides. I'm clever (and glad I thought of that *before* I cut the plywood). With Akro-Mils panel and glides attached:   Test fit, with a piece of scrap to act as a spacer underneath:  Success! It fits! And fitted into place, with a random piece of OSB to show how I'll add another vertical panel for the next drawer:  edit again: missed the picture of it open, with sample bins:  I had to fiddle around with placement a bit. I've never installed a drawer before, much less a weird one like this. Initially, I managed to get the glides angled just a tiny bit, enough so that everything was fine when open, but the front didn't quite clear at the top when closed. I think the angle is on the mounting to the drawer side. The solution was to change the space at the bottom from 1/2" to 3/8", which ends up looking better anyway. The glides work great, once I got them straight and parallel. The drawer closes flush to the leg. I just need a drawer pull, and I'll probably paint at least the face. Then I'll make at least one more, possibly two. Because you can do this, too:  (I'm interested in how well his glides are holding up. Probably not a lot of weight on those, so probably OK.) Before I paint, though, I'm going to load that one up with all the bins I have and wait for it to break. edit: Also got the lawn mower blade straightened out, and finished mowing without issue. I can't believe this stupid 20-year-old MTD will not die. It doesn't smoke. It starts pretty easy. It only gives me a little trouble every so often, like the pushrods last week. Right now, I think it needs a new carb gasket, since that acts as a fuel pump as well, and it likes to die after you've been mowing a while, but restarts after a few pumps on the primer and then runs fine again for another 10-15 minutes. I'd really like to switch the plastic carb out for a gravity-fed one to prevent that problem, but,  .Plus, I secretly want it to die so I can justify a battery electric mower... Darchangel fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Feb 11, 2020 |
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Feb 10, 2020 23:48
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I'm totally stealing that idea, holy smokes I have bins all over the place and that's genius, wow. I've got a 3ft by 4ft piece of marble countertop I got off Craigslist that I plan on making a welding table with and that storage idea is perfect for under it. The part I'm really looking forward to is sorting hardware, it sounds tedious and boring and it is but once it's sorted and I can find stuff quickly my quality of shop life will increase exponentially since it will allow more time for more projects I'll never finish
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Feb 11, 2020 02:12
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Oh yea on the lawnmower quitting check the gas cap for a clogged vent, it might be creating a vacuum in the tank as the gas is consumed and stopping it from getting to the carb. The stopping and priming it might be just the right amount of time for the slight vacuum to go away allowing it to run again. I only know this because it happened to me and drove me insane before I figured it out. One of my friends had it happen to his snowblower and he was so glad that's all it was when I told him about it. Easy thing to check at least
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Feb 11, 2020 02:18
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Love those pencil bins. Slung has something similar in his kitchen for a spice rack.
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Feb 11, 2020 06:30
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shy boy from chess club posted:I'm totally stealing that idea, holy smokes I have bins all over the place and that's genius, wow. I've got a 3ft by 4ft piece of marble countertop I got off Craigslist that I plan on making a welding table with and that storage idea is perfect for under it. The part I'm really looking forward to is sorting hardware, it sounds tedious and boring and it is but once it's sorted and I can find stuff quickly my quality of shop life will increase exponentially since it will allow more time for more projects I'll never finish Go right ahead - clearly, I stole it myself.  I sorted my metric fasteners when I got the bins in the freestanding rack, and it has made my life much more bearable in that respect. I need to do my SAE fasteners, now, and then maybe all the wood and sheet metal screws in the little drawer organizer. I ordered some nice, simple cabinet handles from Amazon yesterday, about $1.50 each! I could have just made something, or cut a finger hole in the front, but I wanted to match the handles on tha cabinets I put up. They're a style I like. shy boy from chess club posted:Oh yea on the lawnmower quitting check the gas cap for a clogged vent, it might be creating a vacuum in the tank as the gas is consumed and stopping it from getting to the carb. The stopping and priming it might be just the right amount of time for the slight vacuum to go away allowing it to run again. I only know this because it happened to me and drove me insane before I figured it out. One of my friends had it happen to his snowblower and he was so glad that's all it was when I told him about it. Easy thing to check at least I've loosened the cap before, I think, to no effect. I want to say I tried blowing through the holes or something, but I'll check again, since I obviously don't remember too clearly what I've tried... As you say, easy enough to check. Seat Safety Switch posted:Love those pencil bins. Slung has something similar in his kitchen for a spice rack. Matches the zip-tie organizer I built, too. I need to build something like that for all my marking and poking tools. Currently using a drink cup, and short stuff gets lost in there, and it's kind of haphazard. Also likes to fall over thanks to the taper of the cup. I think I'm going to try a box with 1/8" wood internal dividers slotted together. If I ever get the 3D printer I backed, I'll just print one...
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Feb 11, 2020 17:30
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Not a huge update, but I got pulls for the drawer(s):  They match the ones that came on the cabinets pretty well:  A bit shinier, but not a problem. Did a quick install on the existing drawer:  This weekend: one or two more of those drawers, and I think I'll make the remaining space on that side of the bench, if sufficient, traditional drawers, like 3 or 4 of them. I'm thinking another ~9" wide vertical, a narrower vertical, maybe 6" or so, and then the regular horizontal drawers. I've got 22" of vertical space, so, like maybe 3x 6" tall drawers? Or a 6" and a 12"? There may not be enough horizontal space for normal drawers, though. Each side should be about 3-1/2 feet. First vertical drawer is 9" wide, plus 1/2" divider, + clearances, so at least 10". Let's say 10" + 10" + 7" leaves around 15". Maybe. Will have to measure for actual numbers. edit: that's why there are 5 drawer pulls in the first picture. No complaints on those at ~$1.50 each.
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Feb 14, 2020 23:12
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Continued with the stuff drawers last weekend, First, had to fix that dividing wall in place in order to have something to attach the drawer glides to:   Fairly simple. I thought I had more right-angle brackets, but apparently I used almost all of them to attach the top on the workbench. I will get more and secure that bottom edge a bit more. I need more for the next divider in any case. The next drawer. It's the same width as the previous one, but the face panel is wider by 1/2" to cover the dividing wall.   As you can see, the side and rear are shorter in height that the front. For some reason I got a measurement in my head that had nothing to do with reality. Thankfully, I had the right measurement in mind when I did the front, and the only thing that it affected was mounting of the Akro-Mils wall plate, as will be seen. Fitment test:  The front doesn't match the other one because this chunk of plywood is actually a piece of one of the shelves of the original workbench, so it's a bit more seasoned. It's all getting painted anyway. Glides on, 100lb 20" ones this time. Will see how they hold up.  Since I had the extra glide length, I made the drawer deeper, too. Note the extra space on either side of the mounting plate.  Also note that I had to drill a new set of mounting holes thanks to making the drawer too short in height. Hung, after a bit of jockeying to get the gaps nice an even-ish:   Loaded up!  (All my metric stuff in the first one. Nothing in the bins in the new one, still need to sort some stuff and decide what goes in there.) I have a stash space behind the drawers:  Either that, or I scoot the drawers back so that they are recessed, and put a swinging door that also has shelves in front of them. Probably just keep the hidey-hole. The AmazonBasics (R) drawer glides come in a 22", so I think I'll buy those for the next set. The 250 lb. glides also come in 20". I'd live to be able to use all the space, but I'm not even sure 32" glides exist at a reasonable price. Probably not at the weight capacity I need for the vertical drawers. Maybe for regular horizontals - they'll be smaller and probably not for hardware, so shouldn't get as loaded down. I did actually do some car stuff, our Kia was having power lock issues. It likes to re-lock immediately after unlocking with the remote. This particular model can also central lock from the driver's side key and lock lever, as well as the button on the door armrest. I figured that the switch that triggers that had gotten out of adjustment or something and decided to just eliminate it by cutting the control wires. Well, I did that, and it seemed to work. I also noticed that the passenger side was not always unlocking, or locking. It was trying, but the motor wasn't getting the job done, so I resolved to go in and fix that, while I was messing with the thing, and the weather was nice. Along the way, I discovered a couple things. One was that the central locking *also* worked from the passenger side lock knob. This may have been the problem all along, since the passenger side was not fully unlocking, and could ease back into the lock position, triggering the central locking. At any rate, I wanted the motor to work. I figured it just needed some lube. First problem - this is the lock mechanism and motor:  So the track had to come out, thankfully just 2x 10mm bolts. 3 #3 phillips screws holding the latch to the door, plus two tabs (the white bit to the right of the picture) that slide keyhole style into the door structure. As far as I can tell they assemble all the the door internals on to the door structure brace bit, and then slide it all into the door and bolt up the brace. Anyway, I didn't really want to disconnect the door lock and latch cables, so a little manipulating had to be done to get it to where I could detach the lock motor.  This photo is actually when I was putting it back together, but you can also see the door structure/brace I'm talking about. The "keyholes that the white nylon bit slide into are above and below the 10mm nut securing the brace to the door. The big problem was getting the motor gear casing apart. I removed all the externally-accessible screws, and still could not get the damned think open. Turns out, Kia did a very bad thing. The assembled the motor, lock shaft and gearing to a frame, then screwed that into the upper casing - see screws and broken posts circled in red:  Note the metal contacts in upper casing - there is a wiper that is not shown in this picture, along with a couple of the gears, that I think is the central locking switch. The real issue is that once they attach the mechanism to the upper casing, they install the lower casing, the stake the actuator arm on to the shaft, so it is now impossible to take the motor apart without breaking it!  I just said "fuckit - it's broke already" and pried the poo poo out of it. Unfortunately, I also broke one of the mounting lucks and a chunk out of the casing, but once I lubed the stupid thing up and reinstalled it, it's operating OK. You may have noted the piece of gaffer tape on the motor in the picture above showing the assembly dangling out of the door. You can see the missing chink in the picture with the two screws circled, just below the actuator shaft on the right. Hopefully I'll sell the thing before it becomes a problem... I would have just put an aftermarket "gun" style actuator on it (I have several on hand) but it's tough, since the locks are cable- rather than rod-actuated. Of course, then the car refused to start. It gave me one try, then died. The battery has been pretty weak for a while, and I had the door open for an extended period. I'll see if my smart charger can bring it back. I really don't want to buy *another* battery. This would make three in the last 6 months. Only the Outback hasn't needed a new battery yet. edit: new aftermarket door lock actuator looks like about $50-60, with the latch, depending on seller. For some reason the front right one is more difficult to find? Rock Auto literally on has front left and rear right, because reasons. drawer slides: holy hell. Seems like any drawer slide over 30" is 250lb and up, and costs $100 or better. 28" 100lb. seem to be reasonable. Trying to find a 5-pair pack, but I did find a pack of 10 pairs of GlideRite for $68. I don't need 10 pair, but seeing as how the cheapest single is $20... 10 pair is cheaper than 4x singles (which is actually all I need). Darchangel fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Feb 19, 2020 |
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Feb 19, 2020 18:36
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Did some minor things car-wise: replaced a flickering LED for the license plate light on the Crown Vic, replaced protruding LEDs in the footwell that tended to get kicked and broken with ones that only projected light straight out (or down, in this case) and were therefore low-profile, and added an attachment point to the driver's side footwell hush panel (which contains the aforementioned footwell lights) to keep it from dangling down and annoying my toes. The footwell hush panels come from a civilian Gran Marquise, so, while most of the mounting provisions exist in my cop car, apparently one was missing. A bit of radio back bracket strap and a few bolts took care of that, and it now does not droop annoyingly. I took the grille off of my subwoofer to assess damage:  Yep, leaking a bit. Thankfully, this exists: https://www.simplyspeakers.com/jl-audio-speaker-foam-edge-repair-kit-fsk-10jl-1.html I took some measurements, and need to compare them just to make sure I'm buying the right kit (I think it's a 10W0, but not sure), and I'll be rebuilding it. I was honestly very surprised that it didn't immediately eject the cone or something when I first fired it up in the Crown Vic, since it had literally been sitting under my workbench for almost 20 years when I did so. I still want to upgrade to two 10s or 12s, but in the meantime, $22 to fix this guy seems like a worthwhile investment. Didn't do anything to the garage this weekend due to around the house stuff. I think I mentioned that I discovered that silicone has an expiration date when I noticed that some of the caulk I put in the shower did not cure. It looked like this:  and you could wipe it off with a finger. Dug all of that out, cleaned up with acetone, and laid down some fresh silicone caulk, which was unfortunately a bit *too* white:  but cured nicely. It'll do. Of course, I found some more uncured caulk this morning... <sigh> Also put a stereo in my cousin's '96 Explorer. It had the stock stereo that was failing when he got the truck (for free!), so I gave him one of my old head units, the dash kit, and wiring plus install for Christmas. The head is a nice Kenwood unit that I had in my Jeep that I decided I didn't like, but it's BT, USB, iPod control, phone stuff, and plenty of power. I just didn't like how hard the display is to read in bright sunlight (not enough contrast plus curved glossy plastic.) It turned out to be a little more difficult to install in his Explorer because, despite just having the standard cassette deck, it still had the amp way back in the rear quarter, meaning I had to dig that out, unplug the input and output, and wire the two together to get the sound to the speakers.  Took and extra hour for that. If I'd realized it had that, I would have bought the necessary bypass harness, and the different front plug, but eh, I've got wire and can solder. It worked fine. He's got a dead speaker, but I've got the originals from my Crown Vic I can swap in. I'll check it out when I open up that door panel to fix the power window (usual Ford PW issue with the "clutch" rollers in the geartrain.) While I did that, my cousin sorted through some stuff. You may remember this pile from a post some time back: We started digging through that to see what I had.    The verdict so far (my friend has more stuff she'll bring later) is that it's about half '80s G.I. Joe, half vintage Star Wars. I have most of the GI Joe stuff already, and should probably sell *that* so most of this will be sold off. There's a lot not pictured or not clearly pictured. We're still going through the action figures. A lot of the Joes need new o-rings to hold them together. Things I know we have, mostly complete: Star Wars: Millenium Falcon X-wing Y-wing Snow Speeder Luke's Landspeeder AT-AT (the lighted moving chin cannons work!) Vader's Star Destroyer Action Playset Death Star Space Station Playset Jabba's Palace playset GI Joe: MoBat motorized battle tank * Toss N' Cross Bridge Layer Sky Striker F-14 * Cobra Night Raven stealth jet Cobra Rattler A-10(ish) * Tomahawk twin-rotor helicopter Headquarters Command Center * Killer Whale hovercraft (I think I saw that. He was going through stuff and it was all over the garage.) (* I think, also) SHARC submersible AWE Striker Sadly missing a wheel. Silver Mirage Sadly with a broken rear swingarm and sidecar mount, and the sidecar is missing a wheel (so far.) Transportable Tactical Battle Platform Snow Cat COBRA STUN Triple T * = I have this already, somewhere in my parents' attic. and a fair number of smaller vehicles and accessories. Several of those are worth a fair amount, *and* are ones that I already have, so... I let my cousin lay claim to several of the Star Wars toys - he's the SW nerd, and I don't really have the room or need. A big plus is that he's the assistant manager of a local comics shop, so he has the contacts to sell some of this stuff. We're not looking for top dollar - these were given to me by a friend I've known since high school who wanted the space (they were here brother's, and he doesn't want them back (and is also being a butt about it, according to her) and she doesn't have the time or energy due to MS to sell them.) I'd like to get them into the hands of nerds who will appreciate them, and maybe make a little $$ on the side, which I intend to share with my friend, and my cousin for doing some of the legwork. Quite a haul, really. The thing that really excited me, though, was this:  No not Wheeljack (the white Lancia Stratos) - I already have him. Specifically the red and white guy. If you know Transformers and/or Macross, you know what that is. That is an amazing oddity of early Transformers. Almost all of the G1 Transformers were Takara Tomy toys. Jetfire there is a Bandai (actually made by Takatoku Toys, apparently) VF-1S Super Valkyrie from Macross,, one of the greatest transformable toys ever, somehow used as an Autobot. ALL the freaking parts are there, and it's *mint* except for the minor yellowing on some upper surfaces, probably from display under fluorescents. I've always wanted one of those, but $$. Heck, any of the fully transformable Valkyries in that size are a bit pricey, and rightfully so - they are built like a brick outhouse. That's going on the display shelf, in front of the cheap Chinese knockoff I have. Oh, and I really hope my friend eventually brings the G1 Megatron that goes with those accessories, there. That's his scope and shoulder stock. And Soundwave's batteries, in the blue. edit: I almost forgot! I also found a Futaba Attack 75 MHz (ground use) remote control radio. No reciever, though. One step closer to that Associated RC-10 running, though, I guess. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Feb 24, 2020 |
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Feb 24, 2020 22:30
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That StarWars stuff  I also have a Futaba T6XAS converted to 75mhz and a 6 channel RX that I don't need anymore if you are interested. I used to use it for combat robots but I switched to 2.4ghz and haven't used this in a long time e: its a stick radio though, not a pistol grip
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Feb 27, 2020 01:51
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Possibly interested. Like I need another hobby...
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Feb 27, 2020 19:12
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Nice Jetfire, that figure with all the accessories get serious money these days, because of all the easy to lose or break armour parts
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Feb 27, 2020 23:16
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You Am I posted:Nice Jetfire, that figure with all the accessories get serious money these days, because of all the easy to lose or break armour parts Yep. Of course, that's the one piece I won't be letting go. <sigh> I will be seeing what I can do about that yellowing though. Not damaging the paint application is the tough part. There is one part missing: the clip that holds the gun on the arm in fighter mode (or any mode, really, if you don't want it in the hand.) It's commonly missing/lost. It may be in with all the miscellaneous pieces, but I doubt it. There are repros available, or 3D printing, but, eh. Some of the Star Wars pieces will fetch decent prices, since most of it is 90% or better complete. Same for the GI Joe stuff. I'm not looking to profit, really, but, hey, extra $$ always welcome, and I'd rather someone who really wants this stuff gets to enjoy it. I'm only going to keep a few pieces, if any. If I didn't already have a Falcon, I'd keep that. I don't have anywhere to display the stuff I already have. Maybe someday. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Feb 27, 2020 |
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Feb 27, 2020 23:34
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Oh my god I've never seen one of those GI Joe helicopters complete. By the time I was around my brothers had removed many many parts from that helicopter that I never got to experience.
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Feb 28, 2020 02:24
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Darchangel posted:Yep.
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Feb 28, 2020 05:06
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You Am I posted:The Jetfire I have had really bad paint chipping on the legs. I sanded off all the paint and redid it with some Tamiya hobby paint. Mine is also missing the clip as well, and some of the armour parts tend to fall off. This thing is in fantastic shape. Like, never played with and barely transformed, just displayed. All the armor bits are tight. They weren't installed. I was a bit trepidatious about installing them, actually. One of the leg armors has a little stress discoloration - I think someone removed it without realizing that it separates into two pieces. It has no Autobot markings on it, but it does have some of the stickers, along with the factory paint. Lightbulb Out posted:Oh my god I've never seen one of those GI Joe helicopters complete. By the time I was around my brothers had removed many many parts from that helicopter that I never got to experience. I never had that one myself. I have the AirCobra ("Dragonfly XH-1"), and the little COBRA single-seat chopper. I might even have two of the little one. I'd really like to figure out if the rotor blades can be removed without damage, because it takes up a stupid amount of space with them on. Soooo, wanna buy it? edit: looks like all I'm missing at the moment is the one landing gear. Got all the canopies, rear door, and all the engine covers (they're removable, as is tradition - gotta do maintenance! That's one thing I always liked about GI-Joe: the mechanical details and removable access panels. Appealed to the mechanic/engineer in me.) I probably have most or all of the missiles in the bag o' weapons. The rotors have barbed attachment, so may be able to finagle removal. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Feb 28, 2020 |
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Feb 28, 2020 21:35
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Will probably sell that Wheeljack Transformer, too. I have an earlier one with the actual copyright-infringing full "Alitalia" livery, and the rear spoiler and his wings underneath the chassis. Always liked Wheeljack for some reason.
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Feb 28, 2020 21:43
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The 28" drawer glides I ordered came in. Sometimes Amazon pricing is really silly. These things are ~$22 a pari, but the pack of 10 pairs was $67. I only needed 4 pair, but why would I pay $88 instead of $67. And I may use more, now.  Lot less wasted space at the back:  Start with installing a wall, again:  Built the drawer, got sloppy with nail placement on the back-to-bottom joint, while the thing was on the remainder of the sheet, and curved pretty much all of the nails into the sheet:   The new one is all plywood, because I finally ran out of OSB scraps large enough to use. Cut 'em all short with a flush cutter, and spent some time marking the nailer so I know where the nails actually come out in relation to the tip, then re-did that bit. Glides installed:  And drawer in place:  Comes out just a bit further:  (18", 20", 28") Went ahead and threw up the next wall.  That one was a pain due to the limited working space. There's only about 13" between the two walls. Getting to screws 30" back was a challenge. My plan is to put 3 horizontal drawers stacked in the remaining space. I had a brainstorm, and have decided to use a chunk of the 3/4" plywood shelf I pulled out from that whole section, and make a pull-out work surface above the drawers. Should be neat. Drawers will be about a foot wide by about 7" high, each, or I could go with 2x 10", or a shorter and taller one, say 6" and 15". Need to think about what I want to put in there. I'm also considering rebuilding the second vertical drawer to 28" long. Then I have to blow it all apart and paint. At least the fronts, but probably all of it. Still waiting on shipping for the subwoofer repair. Oh, and the RC radio is specifically a Futaba Attack R:  Will have to see if a cheap receiver is available, just for the hell of it.
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Mar 2, 2020 21:14
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First up, beers I found: PKL FKR!   I was actually looking for Martin Brewing's Best Maid Pickle Beer, which I did find. Both Martin and Best Maid Pickles are local to Fort Worth (I live between Fort Worth and Dallas, which area is known as the Mid Cities.) If you like (dill) pickle juice, you may like this beer. If you do not, you very certainly will not. It's not just "brewed with" pickle juice, where you might get a hint of dill pickle. No, it's pretty much 50/50 pickle juice and beer. I like pickle juice, and will drink it straight when I have a salt craving (or a cramp) so I think it's pretty good, but I can only drink one at a time. It's just as acidic as pickle juice, and much more than one makes my tummy unhappy. I presume PKL FKR is going to be similar, but I'll need to find a single to buy and try. Didn't try the Trooper, though I think I will at a later date. I was buying the Best Maid to send to a friend in Washington state. Moving on, I got a wild hair to work on the workbench in the middle of the week. Start with this:  That is the shelf I removed to make way for the drawers. It's 3/4" plywood. I decided that it would make a dandy pull-out work surface. It's already the right depth, so just needed to cut it down to width to fit into the ~12" opening, along with the glides. I doubled it up because the glides themselves are 1-3/4" tall, so there was really no way to make the glides not stick up above the work surface without doubling it. Plus, strength, why not?   Initially, I cut it a tiny bit too wide, and it wedged sliding it back, so I had to take off 1/8". Then it took some fettling of the vertical position of the glides, both on the panel and in the workbench to get it to clear the lower edge of the top, but still be fairly close, and *then* it wedged again at the back, because it turned out I had somehow made the added side wall slightly out of parallel, despite measuring and marking to explicitly avoid that. Relatively easy to fix, since I used "L" brackets, but made annoying due to the tight space (remember, about 12" wide) and lots of depth (32" all the way back.) *THEN* the work surface hit the 2x4 supporting the top at the rear, because I *also* got the stationary part of the glides angled up just a tiny bit at the back (or, possibly, the 2x4 at the rear was just a tad taller than the front.) Again, I measured and marked to make the damned things level, or at least parallel to the workbench, and it still mocked me. And again, fairly simple fix made amazingly annoying due to the location, but I got it done with some cursing, and it works perfectly. Closed:  Open:  They're only 100 pound glides, so I won't be sitting on it or anything, but it's a handy work surface that's lower than the main bench, and shouldn't become cluttered due to its nature. Pretty sure I'm going to re-do the second drawer into a 28" version, and I'll be building the "normal" drawers shortly. I need to do some more measuring and mock up a few different sizes to decide if I want 2 or 3 drawers, and what sizes. I also need to get more bins for the third drawer, I guess. edit: and add a knob to pull out the work surface. And maybe "wings" to hide the glides from the front when closed. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Mar 4, 2020 |
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Mar 4, 2020 22:16
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