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I recently moved into a house where, 10-12 years ago, the owner pulled Cat 5e cable throughout the house which collect in a closet with a gigabit router (Netgear Prosafe) and gigabit switch (Trendnet GREENnet). When transferring files between computers, I get gigabit speeds. However, I noticed I am not getting the advertised speed of the internet service I am paying for (75 Mbps, nothing fantastic, but I'm only pulling 20 Mbps, which is pissing me off). When I plug the modem directly into my computer I get above the advertised speed. Is this likely just an issue with the router and switch being old? Any ideas if there is a way to fix this with my current hardware or is it something where I'll need to get a new router?
Xenix fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Jan 26, 2020 |
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Jan 26, 2020 03:06
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skipdogg posted:Did you adjust your firewall rules on your router to forward the ports to the new computer? Yeah I went into router at home to forward specific ports I have set in qbittorrent and tested it on canyyouseeme, and am also currently on a new WiFi network in different home and it's same thing. On torrent with over 1.5k peers, I connect to between 30-80 and it throttles up and down.
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Jan 26, 2020 03:07
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Xenix posted:I recently moved into a house where, 10-12 years ago, the owner pulled Cat 5e cable throughout the house which collect in a closet with a gigabit router (Netgear Prosafe) and gigabit switch (Trendnet GREENnet). When transferring files between computers, I get gigabit speeds. However, I noticed I am not getting the advertised speed of the internet service I am paying for (75 Mbps, nothing fantastic, but I'm only pulling 20 Mbps, which is pissing me off). When I plug the modem directly into my computer I get above the advertised speed. Is this likely just an issue with the router and switch being old? Any ideas if there is a way to fix this with my current hardware or is it something where I'll need to get a new router? Which router model is it more specifically?
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Jan 26, 2020 03:15
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Xenix posted:I recently moved into a house where, 10-12 years ago, the owner pulled Cat 5e cable throughout the house which collect in a closet with a gigabit router (Netgear Prosafe) and gigabit switch (Trendnet GREENnet). When transferring files between computers, I get gigabit speeds. However, I noticed I am not getting the advertised speed of the internet service I am paying for (75 Mbps, nothing fantastic, but I'm only pulling 20 Mbps, which is pissing me off). When I plug the modem directly into my computer I get above the advertised speed. Is this likely just an issue with the router and switch being old? Any ideas if there is a way to fix this with my current hardware or is it something where I'll need to get a new router? If computer to computer speeds are as expected, it's most likely the router and not the switch.
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Jan 26, 2020 03:16
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Charles posted:Which router model is it more specifically? It appears to be this model: https://www.netgear.com/support/product/FVS318G.aspx
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Jan 26, 2020 03:20
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Xenix posted:It appears to be this model: https://www.netgear.com/support/product/FVS318G.aspx Whether it's the source of the issue or not... quote:NETGEAR Inc. will terminate the ProSAFE VPN Firewalls on September 1, 2017. The last software update for these products was provided in April 2017 It's time to replace that.
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Jan 26, 2020 03:37
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Xenix posted:It appears to be this model: https://www.netgear.com/support/product/FVS318G.aspx Yeah that's your weak link alright. Sorry. Old single core 250mhz with 32mb ram isn't gonna route that fast.
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Jan 26, 2020 03:53
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Xenix posted:It appears to be this model: https://www.netgear.com/support/product/FVS318G.aspx The original FVS318, of which I have a small pile retired from businesses, got something like 5 Mb through the WAN port and while I'm not familiar with the -G model I assume it could still have some kind of weird 10 megabit non duplexed wan port for reasons. It's definitely time for a new router.
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Jan 26, 2020 04:26
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Good to know, thanks for the info. I knew the manufacturer was no longer supporting the router when I inherited it moving in here a few months ago, but I am surprised it can't handle modern internet speeds. I guess I'll be looking to upgrade it this week.
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Jan 26, 2020 04:53
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What possible explanation is there to my home network suddenly changing name and my password no longer working? It used to be 'Lesbian Sex Dungeon' now it just shows up as 'Lesbian'. I hope this is just a simple error and not someone hacking my rear end. Also, I can't get into the router settings (192.168.0.1) because I'm an idiot and forgot to write down the login information.
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Jan 27, 2020 23:42
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Mister Speaker posted:What possible explanation is there to my home network suddenly changing name and my password no longer working? It used to be 'Lesbian Sex Dungeon' now it just shows up as 'Lesbian'. I hope this is just a simple error and not someone hacking my rear end. Have you tried power-cycling your router/access point/whatever is serving your wireless network? A dip in the power can cause computers and network devices to act strangely, usually rebooting will sort out issues caused by power stuff. Unless you changed it, the default login info is usually on the back/bottom of most home routers, or can be found online.
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Jan 27, 2020 23:58
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FYI Ubiquiti has moved the UDM-Pro from EA to GA/RTM. If you need a ubiquiti unifi router with two wans, stop buying usg/usg pros and get one of these.
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Jan 28, 2020 16:24
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So I ended up ordering a Dream Machine and it arrives on Friday and I'm looking forward to spending all weekend making an entirely too complicated home network with it.
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Jan 28, 2020 16:34
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Good on you, let us know if it improves your distributed throughput much. The specs look pretty solid.. 4x4 MIMO, 2.4/5 GHz radios, quad-core 1.7 GHz ARM (and not Broadcom) CPU, QoS that probably works, built-in cloud key, built-in security gateway presumably based on their currently near-outdated standalone unit.. Wow it will even give priority to a laptop connecting with a 3x3 MIMO array.. the 2 GB of RAM and 16 GB of flash storage looks quite impressive. With that ARM CPU it almost makes me think it would fit into the Apple ecosystem quite nicely, if Apple had a mind to start making network hardware again. I guess $300 isn't too much to ask for all those features slammed into one white cylinder.
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Jan 28, 2020 17:27
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With both udm in general availability i would suggest editing the op to replace the ER-series(and maybe remove the airports) with those two, the udm series provide a idiotproof option for routing(both)/controller(both)/wireless(base udm) in the unifi ecosystem without the overly complicated user interface present on the ER-series.
SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Jan 28, 2020 |
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Jan 28, 2020 17:29
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Binary Badger posted:Good on you, let us know if it improves your distributed throughput much. It'll be replacing a Netgear R7000 that has started randomly rebooting and also just not passing along DNS requests so it better help my throughput  I live in an apartment that's just one big room with three bedrooms and a bathroom off of it, so I'm not a very good testbed for anything honestly. I just want the QoS to work since all of our media is via streaming services, but we do have a bunch of IoT stuff now so I want to try segmenting the network a bit. EDIT: Also yeah the price point turned me off at first but I figure it's what you'd pay to get the individual bits anyway so v0v Inspector_666 fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Jan 28, 2020 |
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Jan 28, 2020 17:33
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Binary Badger posted:The specs look pretty solid.. 4x4 MIMO, 2.4/5 GHz radios, quad-core 1.7 GHz ARM (and not Broadcom) CPU, QoS that probably works, built-in cloud key, built-in security gateway presumably based on their currently near-outdated standalone unit.. The cpu is an annapurna unit, the same as mikrotik rb4011 or high-end arm-equipped qnap, so plenty of grunt, which is required to work as there is no hardware acceleration. The core logic is entirely new, no recycle from the usg series(thank goddess), which required for the ubnt dev team to start anew(and brings some limitations like not being able to use your own controllers, you use the one in the udm or you don't use the udm at all). The wifi part is pretty much a miniaturized nanohd/flexhd running on one of the onboard gigabit ports.
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Jan 28, 2020 17:45
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SlowBloke posted:With both udm in general availability i would suggest editing the op to replace the ER-series(and maybe remove the airports) with those two, the udm series provide a idiotproof option for routing(both)/controller(both)/wireless(base udm) in the unifi ecosystem without the overly complicated user interface present on the ER-series. But the OP is accurate?? Stop asking I'd include it in the OP as a "This will do everything you want" device, but I'd keep some of the individual ERs up there as well for cost conscious folks. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Jan 28, 2020 |
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Jan 28, 2020 17:58
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Hoping for some help on a bit of a home network mystery I recently had. I'm a Comcast xfinity xFi customer with 1000mb down and 350 up. Data cap is 1024 gb. Never came near the cap for years, always around 700-900gb a month. Then, about three months ago, I started getting notices that I was close to hitting my data cap, 90%. Ok, no big deal, we have a new smart TV that's been running youtube for hours to entertain the baby. Didn't think much of it. Then this month the data usage exploded. total data for the month is sitting at 1613 gb or so. When I went and looked, I could literally see the data usage creeping up by 5-10gb PER HOUR. WTF! So I downloaded the xFi app and went device by device, checking usage, which is in percentage, not hard numbers which is annoying. But whatever, I managed to narrow it down to either the iPad or my gaming PC. Fine. At first I was thinking it was the iOS devices getting crazy with background refreshes. So I updated all my apps to use low data mode or not auto play videos, anything I could find. I downloaded My Data Mgr on my iPad and while it did show 700mb of unknown app data usage, the total amount of data I was using was totally within reason, maybe 1.5gb in a few hours of streaming video, surfing bla bla. So it wasn't the iPad as far as I can tell. Then I thought, maybe my gaming PC caught a virus so I disabled it from network and powered down. Currently pending an OS reinstall. Thought it was my extender. Disabling devices had no effect on data usage. I could still watch the data tick up. So, the one thing that HAS caused the data usage to slow, almost stop, almost immediately was updating the password on my xfinity account and enabling MFA. It's been a few hours since I made that change and :knock on wood: the data has remained quite stable. So yeah, the working theory is maybe my xfinity account was compromised and someone was using the hotspot to DL torrents or something? My googling indicates that this scenario SHOULDNT count toward data usage but who knows. Or, Comcast is just loving with me. Either way, I'm going to reset the WiFi pw and reset all my devices which is long overdue. But yeah. loving weird. FWIW I have the xFi AP which has worked great for years. I guess what I'm asking is has anyone seen or heard of behavior like this?
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Jan 28, 2020 18:22
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Any Ausgoons got any recommendations for replacement routers for the Nbn? The typical garbage that Optus supplied have for some reason in the space of 2 days, have stopped letting my IP cameras and video doorbell connect to my WiFi, no matter of tweaking or resetting the router can get them to reconnect. I'd also like something that can broadcast the WiFi more than about 2m.
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Jan 28, 2020 20:50
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SnatchRabbit posted:So, the one thing that HAS caused the data usage to slow, almost stop, almost immediately was updating the password on my xfinity account and enabling MFA. It's been a few hours since I made that change and :knock on wood: the data has remained quite stable. So yeah, the working theory is maybe my xfinity account was compromised and someone was using the hotspot to DL torrents or something? My googling indicates that this scenario SHOULDNT count toward data usage but who knows. I'm almost certain they actually do count hotspot usage against your cap as I looked into it when I moved because I was leeching in this manner before I got my new internet service installed.
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Jan 28, 2020 21:07
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So, I'm torn on whether to buy the regular UniFi Dream Machine or the Pro. Specifically, they seem to have the exact same processor. But the UDM is rated for 850 Mbps for "IDS/IPS Throughput", while the UDM-PRO is rated for IDS/IPS Throughput: 3.5 Gbps * (measured with iPerf3, whatever that is) Why the large difference? Is it due to the extra 2GB of memory (4GB) it has versus the UDM (2GB)? Also, do they use the exact same software? And am I correct that the only feature set that the UDM-PRO lacks compared to the UDM is Wifi? Like, can I buy the UDM-PRO and add a Unifi AC AP and have all the same feature set as the UDM +some? Thanks for the help. I'm sure it'll be overkill... but I want to make sure I get what I want.
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Jan 29, 2020 03:24
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That's correct, you can just add a UniFi AP to a UDM Pro and it will be better than a regular UDM. I mainly want the UDM Pro so I can hook my server up via 10GBe SFP+. I imagine it's really only useful for people who have 1 Gbps fiber.
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Jan 29, 2020 03:49
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Thanks for the earlier advice. Anyone have a brand preference for good/affordable bulk network cable in the US? I think Monoprice used to be a go to, back in the day. 250 ft. is probably the number; I'm looking to add a few keystones to clean up the basement, not make my own cable.
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Jan 29, 2020 03:56
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namlosh posted:So, I'm torn on whether to buy the regular UniFi Dream Machine or the Pro. Remember the UDM-PRO gains a drive bay for use as an NVR for unifi cameras
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Jan 29, 2020 05:19
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namlosh posted:So, I'm torn on whether to buy the regular UniFi Dream Machine or the Pro. The annapurna cores that run the ids/ips are pretty beefy, from what the devs told on reddit/discord both udm rates are limited by ram. Currently the udm-pro has a different software stack that will eventually deployed on the udm too. If we exclude the nanohd embedded in the udm(and the sata bay in the udm pro) the logic boards are pretty much the same. If you can go for the udm-pro.
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Jan 29, 2020 07:30
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Thanks for the great answers everyone. I’m gonna go with the UDM-PRO. There always seem to be some used AC Pro access points on Craigslist here so I’ll just grab one of those and have a great solution for the next 5+ years. I plan to set up a VPN tunnel so my development box can talk to some test azure infra as well as allow VPN’s from devices and such. Segmented networks for iOT devices so they have no internet access is another use case. I’m sure I’ll have questions when the time comes. Thx thread!
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Jan 29, 2020 15:31
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namlosh posted:Thanks for the great answers everyone. I’m gonna go with the UDM-PRO. There always seem to be some used AC Pro access points on Craigslist here so I’ll just grab one of those and have a great solution for the next 5+ years. Client vpn(l2tp) is on the udm, vpn tunnels are kinda shaky right now so i would terminate the azure vpn elsewhere than on the udm.
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Jan 29, 2020 17:51
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SlowBloke posted:Client vpn(l2tp) is on the udm, vpn tunnels are kinda shaky right now so i would terminate the azure vpn elsewhere than on the udm. Does the UDM not support site-to-site IPSec VPNs yet? I'd assume if someone was connecting to azure infra they wouldn't use a client VPN.
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Jan 29, 2020 19:17
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Actuarial Fables posted:Does the UDM not support site-to-site IPSec VPNs yet? I'd assume if someone was connecting to azure infra they wouldn't use a client VPN. Yeah, site to site tunnel was what I envisioned between my house and Azure. Way back in the day I had a Cisco vpn concentrator with some infrastructure collocated and a linksys router at home that was able to do that. It would be kinda surprising if that wasn’t supported considering it’s supposed to have a security gateway inside it
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Jan 29, 2020 19:28
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Actuarial Fables posted:Does the UDM not support site-to-site IPSec VPNs yet? I'd assume if someone was connecting to azure infra they wouldn't use a client VPN. https://help.ubnt.com/hc/en-us/articles/360002426234-UniFi-USG-UDM-VPN-How-to-Configure-Site-to-Site-VPN#3 I feel like the vpn services are not done 100%, I don’t have any first hand actionable data (udm are barely available here and the udm pro won’t be for at least q3 2020) but stay on your toes, that’s all. SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Jan 29, 2020 |
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Jan 29, 2020 20:05
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These are probably normal dumb questions, but I just bought a three story condo that has a media box in the garage. I haven't gotten a good look at the wiring in it, but I am working off the non-optimistic assumption that it is probably cat5 non-e. I've got some Ubiquiti stuff, do people actually leave that in the media boxes in the garage, or do they normally end up pulling a bunch of wire somewhere in the house and not using the box? If you're rack mount do you just mount a rack to the wall above the box? Is normal operating procedure pulling cat6e by taping it to the existing cat5 and pulling from the box to the receptacles in the room?
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Jan 29, 2020 23:28
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BlackMK4 posted:Is normal operating procedure pulling cat6e by taping it to the existing cat5 and pulling from the box to the receptacles in the room? Keenly watching this ahead of a desired Cat5e to Cat6a project if that is the answer. Also, while we're on the subject, does anyone have a good guide to pulling cables if you've never done it before?
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Jan 30, 2020 04:18
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BlackMK4 posted:These are probably normal dumb questions, but I just bought a three story condo that has a media box in the garage. Normal operating procedure is to use the cat5. What is your goal here by ripping out perfectly good wire? I would leave as much as you can in the garage and just put a switch inside the house to give you more gig-e ports.
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Jan 30, 2020 04:29
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H110Hawk posted:Normal operating procedure is to use the cat5. What is your goal here by ripping out perfectly good wire? if it's cat5 in tyool 2020 I'd consider repulling. 1GBe kinda works over cat5, but isn't really reliable. And if you're having to pull, you might as well pull with cat6 vs cat5e.
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Jan 30, 2020 04:40
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I think Cat5 caps out at 100Mbps? I'd want to get rid of that too if I had the opportunity. I think that gigabit internet is gonna be the cap for a long time in America.
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Jan 30, 2020 04:43
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If you have to pull or are having actual issues yeah pull whatever is reasonably priced from monoprice by the spool. Probably 6a by this point. Cat5 is in fact rated at 1000base-t and depending on when it was installed is probably 5e anyways. Test it first to see if it works. 2001 is when 5e came out and not long after base cat5 was entirely discontinued. When was this wire installed? Most places back when 5 was the standard still pulled cat3 for telephone service, where post 5e times you eventually saw a switch to cat5e for telephone service as it became cheaper given its ubiquity in the market and the drop off of people actually using cat3 pots lines.
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Jan 30, 2020 05:13
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H110Hawk posted:If you have to pull or are having actual issues yeah pull whatever is reasonably priced from monoprice by the spool. Probably 6a by this point. I definitely installed 5e before 2001 but maybe it was a draft standard? I bought it at Fry's. Charles posted:What keystones and 8P8C (Rj45) would you recommended for 23awg 6a? Since we're discussing 6a, I still have this question, although I ordered some keystones from Linkomm or something, but haven't gotten around to trying them yet. Still curious about rj45 (8p8c).
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Jan 30, 2020 05:28
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Charles posted:I definitely installed 5e before 2001 but maybe it was a draft standard? I bought it at Fry's. Oh and those monoprice ones are garbage. I threw them all away. You still needed a punch down tool and then they were still garbage. 5e timing: yeah I was just looking at Wikipedia for dates but I remember 5e being a thing in high school.
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Jan 30, 2020 05:45
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Buff Hardback posted:if it's cat5 in tyool 2020 I'd consider repulling. 1GBe kinda works over cat5, but isn't really reliable. And if you're having to pull, you might as well pull with cat6 vs cat5e. I wouldn't bother repulling a multi-story house unless you have a compelling reason. That said, attaching a new cable to the existing one is probably the easiest way to go as long as the existing runs don't have any "fun" geometry in them. You also might end up losing cable in the wall.
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Jan 30, 2020 05:47
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