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I bought the cheap Master setup from Amazon, the nozzle broke (twice) during cleaning. So I bought an Iwata HP-CS and I couldn't be happier.
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Jan 28, 2020 15:42
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Quick tip to save some money. I worked for a couple years in the model shop of a company that designed and build store displays for the cosmetics industry. We used gallons of Methylene Chloride as cement for all the acrylic and styrene we worked with. Actually it's a skillset I miss working with, we'd use glass syringes, little shims and dozens of little jig blocks to create perfect bubble-free bonds with clear acrylic. Anyway, the 'meth' was something that was easy to get complacent with because it was so abundant. It's toxic, and the bulk type we bought doesn't have that nasty volatile smell you might be used to with hobby cements. Keep your area well ventilated, wear a respirator if you are using a ton of it for big builds, avoid getting it on your skin. When the MSDS says something 'may cause cancer' you can just skip a step and translate that as 'will be proven to cause cancer after you've been using it for years'. That said, it is an incredible tool with plastics. If you have a supplier that carries methylene chloride, they probably carry its ancillary products, one of which is the very useful monomer additive. Monomer is basically unset plastic suspended in a solution that is soluble with cements. We would use it for special bonds of very thick clear acrylic to fill tiny gaps and avoid bubbles, but it also makes bonds stronger. For the opaque plastic most of us work with in the model hobby, you can get similar reinforcing results by grinding up scrap styrene as fine as possible and dissolving small amounts into methylene chloride. Factory made monomer solutions are better, but probably not noticeably for our purposes.
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Jan 28, 2020 16:51
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Speaking of Methylene Chloride I just bought a can of aircraft remover (the good stuff) off ebay because I need to strip some brass models and it was banned from sale in the US a couple months ago. I'll only be using it outdoors with a respirator but that's some scary poo poo. Supposedly there's nothing better for removing paint from brass models though short of bead blasting. Also this past weekend I went to the big model railroad show in Springfield MA and picked up a model I've wanted since I was 15 but never thought I'd be able to afford. It's a 1979 brass HO scale model of the Virginian Railway's AE class 2-10-10-2 steam locomotive. I'm going to modify it to run better (old brass trains don't run well), install lights, DCC and sound, paint and weather it. I'll post progress photos as I go along. This is just a sample photo I found online as I haven't had a chance to take any good photos of mine yet.  It is by far the most expensive toy I've ever bought but I'm super excited about it. Disgruntled Bovine fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Jan 28, 2020 |
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Jan 28, 2020 17:55
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Looking forward to your posts about it!
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Jan 28, 2020 23:03
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I fixed everything with a little bit of creative camera angles.  
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Jan 29, 2020 02:57
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Last pic looks like he's removing a wedgie.
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Jan 29, 2020 03:46
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Cross post from the historicals threadFish and Chimps posted:I'm painting a 15mm PSC Cromwell tank as a Birthday present for my gaming friend.
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Jan 29, 2020 20:16
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The tonal values are nicely blocked in makes that teeny tank look huge.
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Jan 30, 2020 14:52
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Anyone have a recommendation for a 1/35 T-34/85? There are so many out there that I'm having decision fatigue. I'm used to having exactly one option for whatever it is I'm planning to build.
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Jan 30, 2020 16:23
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Scut posted:The tonal values are nicely blocked in makes that teeny tank look huge. Thanks. That's what you want when painting 1:100 I guess. Here it is with pigments and varnish:    
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Jan 30, 2020 23:28
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Slugworth posted:Anyone have a recommendation for a 1/35 T-34/85? There are so many out there that I'm having decision fatigue. I'm used to having exactly one option for whatever it is I'm planning to build. The AFV Club kits are really great. I loved my full interior build a couple months ago.
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Jan 31, 2020 02:49
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Gewehr 43 posted:The AFV Club kits are really great. I loved my full interior build a couple months ago.
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Jan 31, 2020 13:15
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I couldn't fix the mess with the water, so might as well call it done.          
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Feb 2, 2020 05:14
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Genuinely not sure what mess you're talking about.
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Feb 2, 2020 05:22
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Yeah, it "technically" may be a bit frosty and a lot of bubbles, but in practice it just makes it look like moving water. I genuinely like it. Nice work, man!
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Feb 2, 2020 05:48
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drat that's rad, love the fire damage! I started working on my Falke kit, and the cockpit was looking a bit sparse so started chucking in some bits and bobs. Are there any sites in the UK that people can recommend for photoetch and detailing kits? I don't know if there's a bits market for stuff like in 40K, or if I just need to go cannibalizing kits for extra doodads. 
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Feb 2, 2020 22:46
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I love seeing how people flesh out Ma.K cockpits. Keep posting your progress!
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Feb 3, 2020 17:38
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ijyt posted:drat that's rad, love the fire damage! That's a nice looking cockpit and you have plenty of room. I'd go to the spares box and take some greebles for extra piping, control panels etc.
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Feb 3, 2020 18:08
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Random electronics and guitar wire is the direction I'd go in.
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Feb 3, 2020 18:19
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  I've been working on this during the weekend. Still have to do the water and some more variation in the plants but it's starting to look like something...
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Feb 3, 2020 19:27
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Yeah, it "technically" may be a bit frosty and a lot of bubbles, but in practice it just makes it look like moving water. I genuinely like it. Nice work, man! Yeah pretty much. Wouldn't even have thought that there was something wrong with the water unless it was pointed out. Really nice job! Also what kind of polish madman makes a pe fret like this? 
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Feb 4, 2020 03:44
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Part 63 is uniquely disturbing.
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Feb 4, 2020 03:49
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the real horror is part 50
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Feb 4, 2020 03:51
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Symetrique posted:Yeah pretty much. Wouldn't even have thought that there was something wrong with the water unless it was pointed out. Really nice job! https://www.super-hobby.com/products/C7P-interior-Mirage.html I nearly ordered it, but chickened out. Especially since the kit reviews say the standard interior is already well done.
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Feb 4, 2020 03:54
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What am I missing? It looks like a complex, but otherwise average, PE fret.
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Feb 4, 2020 03:58
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Lots of very thin parts? I don't really see the appeal of PE a lot of the time, but I started building kits for wargaming so bits that will just break off are not a thing I like.
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Feb 4, 2020 04:03
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:What am I missing? It looks like a complex, but otherwise average, PE fret. Truth.
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Feb 4, 2020 19:34
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i guarantee part 50 is only the little circle thing and you need every single one of them and will lose half of them
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Feb 4, 2020 20:13
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I'm running into a weird issue, I'm not sure if it's the Stynlrez primer or the MIG acrylic paint. I've washed the plastic in soapy water, rinsed thoroughly, dried totally, sprayed with white Stynlrez primer in two light coats. Next I did a light coat of MIG Acrylic Blue followed by a second coat and I'm seeing this. It sprays fine initially but seems to to pull away from spots. Anyone have any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong?
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Feb 6, 2020 00:21
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Yooper posted:I'm running into a weird issue, I'm not sure if it's the Stynlrez primer or the MIG acrylic paint. I've washed the plastic in soapy water, rinsed thoroughly, dried totally, sprayed with white Stynlrez primer in two light coats. Next I did a light coat of MIG Acrylic Blue followed by a second coat and I'm seeing this. It sprays fine initially but seems to to pull away from spots. Anyone have any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong? What thinner and what ratio are you using? it looks like the paint is going down too wet and the surface tension hasn't been broken enough.
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Feb 6, 2020 02:59
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Triggerhappypilot posted:What thinner and what ratio are you using? it looks like the paint is going down too wet and the surface tension hasn't been broken enough. The MIG Acrylic paint is really thin out of the bottle so I don't add any thinner.
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Feb 6, 2020 13:09
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Did you thin the stynlrez (will never accept that dumb name even though I love the product)? I've found it doesn't take well to thinning. Otherwise from the photo it looks a bit like 'orange peel' to me, which is generally a sign that the paint is partially drying before it reaches the surface. If that is the case, perhaps a small amount of retarder or flow improver may rectify the issue? Or maybe your airbrush is too far away?
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Feb 6, 2020 16:19
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Scut posted:Did you thin the stynlrez (will never accept that dumb name even though I love the product)? I've found it doesn't take well to thinning. Otherwise from the photo it looks a bit like 'orange peel' to me, which is generally a sign that the paint is partially drying before it reaches the surface. If that is the case, perhaps a small amount of retarder or flow improver may rectify the issue? Or maybe your airbrush is too far away? Stynlrez went on straight. I did a test with a touch of flow improver and it seemed to get worse. I'm running it through a turbo mixer at work and will try it again later. That name is stupid, I feel dumber typing it. Like someone getting a mis-spelled tattoo on there rear end.
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Feb 6, 2020 16:48
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Yooper posted:Stynlrez... I'm I being dumb and not getting what that name is supposed to mean? I'm just reading it as Stynl (rhymes with vinyl) Res (resin) and it just seems like a nonsense word.
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Feb 6, 2020 18:22
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SkunkDuster posted:I'm I being dumb and not getting what that name is supposed to mean? I'm just reading it as Stynl (rhymes with vinyl) Res (resin) and it just seems like a nonsense word. I get the same meaning, but it feels like it's almost an actual word. I did another test run and got similar results. The Vallejo Air color I sprayed next on the same primer had no issue. I'm wondering if the two don't like each other?
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Feb 6, 2020 18:48
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I remember it being explained as something like a list of what it works. Styrene. Resin. Vinyl. But its suuuch a dumb name. Still a really good product.
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Feb 6, 2020 19:12
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It should've been xX_StyNylR3Z_Xx
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Feb 6, 2020 19:20
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Let's not forget also that Badger has a needle lubricant named Regdab
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Feb 6, 2020 19:47
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Symetrique posted:xX_StyNylR3Z_Xx 
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Feb 6, 2020 21:18
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Welp, I think it's the paint itself. I tried a 2nd coat on top of a previous coat and it did the same thing. I added a touch of my airbrush medium-flow improver and it still separated. At this point I'm going to just strip it and start fresh. Edit : Tried a 2nd color of MIG Acrylics on another piece with the same Stylnrez primer and had no separation. Bummer. Yooper fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Feb 6, 2020 |
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Feb 6, 2020 23:11
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