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More New Zealand west coast, unfortunately really thick cloud rolled through before the light got any good, shot still turned out ok though.
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Jan 27, 2020 09:51
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Jan 28, 2020 09:17
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Any good tips for using a Speed Graphic? I borrowed one from a friend and I'm taking it out to shoot some landscapes. So I don't think I'll be using the rear shutter. My first ever large format-shots and I'm stoked, to put it mildly.
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Feb 1, 2020 17:05
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Feb 3, 2020 21:28
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This one is quite good!
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Feb 3, 2020 23:49
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Some photos taken with my GW690III in western Kansas.  
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Feb 4, 2020 03:12
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GreaseGunner posted:Some photos taken with my GW690III in western Kansas. I really like this, but the darker bits of ground seem a touch magenta.
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Feb 4, 2020 04:14
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Yeah I had noticed that. I was thinking of making that into a larger print and seeing if I could get rid of that.
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Feb 4, 2020 04:26
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GreaseGunner posted:Some photos taken with my GW690III in western Kansas. I'd totally buy a print. Throw it on White House Custom Color (they cater to commercial but do amateur printing too), look at their price list, let me know what you'd want. GreaseGunner posted:Yeah I had noticed that. I was thinking of making that into a larger print and seeing if I could get rid of that. What film? Ektar is known for those color shifts, but also great earthtones... iirc you can sometimes pull in the black/white endpoints a little bit in the appropriate color channels of your scan, but ektar just gets really strong color shifts for a negative film with overexposure. It really isn't like other films which have like +1.5 before they get funky, you really do need to nail Ektar exposure within slide-film latitude (+/- 0.5) or colors start to get funky. You could hypothetically create a mask of the intensity of underexposure ("dark areas"), then adjust magenta down inside that region? (I have absolutely no idea how photoshop mask math works) Pondex posted:Any good tips for using a Speed Graphic? double think whether you want your darkslide in or out before you do anything! make sure you pull the front standard out to the appropriate track stop (for that lens, if multiple). work the shutter a few times before you remove the darkslide and take your final exposure, it helps older shutters that are gummy to run reliably at full speeds. if it's a non-original lens you may need to trip the lens shutter from something other than the main body release. If so, consider your hand position as you fire. Don't cover the lens. Maybe ask your friend for a cable release. do not move any unknown shutter to its top speed when it's cocked. Always reinsert darkslide (if necessary), dry fire, and then move to the top speed. The top shutter setting often engages a special top speed spring that strains some older shutters to spin to when it's cocked. If your shutter is new enough it'll probably have a modern datable 70s+ shutter, don't do it on your friend's retro graphlex shutter or random old-looking compur. wait till you pull giant negatives out of the tank/envelope. mf/lf film reveal moment is always amazing. Will you be using rangefinder or rear glass focusing? Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Feb 5, 2020 |
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Feb 4, 2020 05:27
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Paul MaudDib posted:I'd totally buy a print. Throw it on White House Custom Color (they cater to commercial but do amateur printing too), look at their price list, let me know what you'd want. Yeah it's ektar, the first print I made came out a little desaturated and the sky was overexposed so that was the edit I made to fix that. I'm only using Lightroom at home but have access to Photoshop at work but I usually need help figuring that out. I can also make larger prints at work but only on a semi-gloss/luster photo paper so if that's what you're interested in let me know. I'll try to see if I can get that magenta down a bit before I print again.
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Feb 4, 2020 06:06
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GreaseGunner posted:Yeah it's ektar, the first print I made came out a little desaturated and the sky was overexposed so that was the edit I made to fix that. I'm only using Lightroom at home but have access to Photoshop at work but I usually need help figuring that out. I can also make larger prints at work but only on a semi-gloss/luster photo paper so if that's what you're interested in let me know. I'll try to see if I can get that magenta down a bit before I print again. yeah hit me up ideally you'll want to color calibrate your monitor and printer, but in reality close enough usually works. That's why they throw you some free print exposures. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 08:35 on Feb 4, 2020 |
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Feb 4, 2020 06:11
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GreaseGunner posted:Yeah it's ektar, the first print I made came out a little desaturated and the sky was overexposed so that was the edit I made to fix that. I'm only using Lightroom at home but have access to Photoshop at work but I usually need help figuring that out. I can also make larger prints at work but only on a semi-gloss/luster photo paper so if that's what you're interested in let me know. I'll try to see if I can get that magenta down a bit before I print again. Canon Print Studio Pro allows you to print a bunch of small test images onto one piece of paper so you can dial in brightness/contrast adjustments for printing. It's free and I'm pretty sure you don't have to be using a Canon printer.
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Feb 4, 2020 06:27
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Paul MaudDib posted:
This was all good advice, thanks. I used rear focusing and it looks like the focus turned out pretty good. I just developed them this morning and yes they look amazing. I'm already thinking I need to get my own 4x5. e: What's the most economical development setup? I used a Jobo-tank with 4x5-reels this time, and it uses 1500ml for 6 sheets, which is pretty steep IMO. Pondex fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Feb 4, 2020 |
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Feb 4, 2020 17:09
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Pondex posted:
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Feb 4, 2020 17:54
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I have the SP445 and find it quite easy to use. It will occasionally drip a litte when agitating.
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Feb 4, 2020 19:16
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Pondex posted:e: What's the most economical development setup? I used a Jobo-tank with 4x5-reels this time, and it uses 1500ml for 6 sheets, which is pretty steep IMO. Jobo tanks and rotation instead of inversion.
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Feb 4, 2020 20:52
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MrBlandAverage posted:Jobo tanks and rotation instead of inversion. Yeah, I figured you could do something like that manually. A school I used to teach at had an ancient Jobo-machine that worked like that. Probably the last of its kind in northern europe. How do you do agitation. Just roll it continually?
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Feb 4, 2020 21:59
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Pondex posted:Yeah, I figured you could do something like that manually. A school I used to teach at had an ancient Jobo-machine that worked like that. Probably the last of its kind in northern europe. Jobo still makes the machines - http://www.jobo-usa.com/jobo-analog-products/jobo-cpp3-processor For manual rotation, yes, you'd be rolling it continually on a roller base like this:  The arms that hold the wheels pop out for different positions for different size tanks (it's set up for 3xxx Expert tanks in the picture). On that note, I was never able to completely avoid development artifacts with the Jobo 2509n reels, with or without the paddles. I switched to using a 3010 tank for 4x5 and I've never been happier.
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Feb 4, 2020 22:04
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MrBlandAverage posted:Jobo still makes the machines - http://www.jobo-usa.com/jobo-analog-products/jobo-cpp3-processor What kind of artifacts are those? I used the 2509n-model (I think) and I had a bit of scratching on one sheet.
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Feb 4, 2020 22:44
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Pondex posted:What kind of artifacts are those? I used the 2509n-model (I think) and I had a bit of scratching on one sheet. I don't have any examples handy, but I'd sometimes get surge/flow marks on the edges. Usually only visible if there were large areas with even tones, but enough to dissuade me from continuing to use the 2509n.
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Feb 4, 2020 22:59
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MrBlandAverage posted:Jobo tanks and rotation instead of inversion. Do you mean the tank is not full, but the sheets continually dip into and rotate through a pool of chemistry at the bottom? How does that affect development times if so?
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Feb 5, 2020 06:21
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Pondex posted:e: What's the most economical development setup? I used a Jobo-tank with 4x5-reels this time, and it uses 1500ml for 6 sheets, which is pretty steep IMO. HC-110, Dilution H. Who cares how much water you pour down the drain 
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Feb 5, 2020 08:29
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Feb 5, 2020 15:22
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Helen Highwater posted:Do you mean the tank is not full, but the sheets continually dip into and rotate through a pool of chemistry at the bottom? Yes, that's roughly it. Development times decrease (for me, using motorized rotation, about 15%) because of the constant agitation. Here's what it looks like with an Expert drum that has cylinders for each sheet or two sheets - the cylinders are all connected. https://youtu.be/ZCUSWwse1M4
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Feb 5, 2020 18:14
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Helen Highwater posted:Circular tanks are pretty bad for large format, because the film isn't in a spiral like with roll film, so the centre of the tank is just empty space that needs to get filled up with chemistry. You can get flat tanks that hold 2, 4, or 6 sheets at a time and use a whole lot less chemistry per go like this one that does 4 sheets and uses 475ml per run. You can get stuff like Mod54 reels that let you put 6 sheets in a normal round tank (3-reel, not 2-reel). There is also a fairly rare Nikkor 4x5 stainless steel tank that works on a similar principle, it's got internal spirals and you slide the film in. Or you can develop "taco method" and just bend the film into a teardrop shape and wrap a rubber band around it and throw it in a normal tank. 6 sheets per tank (like the Mod54) isn't too bad IMO, because you're often going to be limited by developer concentration anyway. For instance with Rodinal you are not supposed to use less than 2.5ml of developer per 4x5 sheet regardless of dilution, which means you nominally shouldn't be stand/semi-stand developing at 1:100. I don't know how much wiggle room they give you there, but you are flirting with potential development inconsistency. C-41 probably has similar limitations, since you really want to nail the accuracy there. The solution is to use a larger tank and put in more solution even if it's not full of film, hence 6 sheets not really being a big deal. Oh, another tip for the guy starting 4x5: big tanks often take long enough to fill or empty that it can become a significant impact on the overall development time. You may want to consider working in a darkroom (or bathroom, whatever), filling the tank first, and then dunking the film in. Jobos are nice if you have the money though. Especially if you are doing color. An intermediate step - I have a couple "Color by Beseler" roller base systems. They were originally designed to spin drums for paper processing but you can just put a normal film tank on there instead. I love them for fixing and hypo-clear/washing steps where you just want it to run to completion, you can work on loading another drum while it works. 
Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Feb 5, 2020 |
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Feb 5, 2020 20:05
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real nap shit fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Feb 6, 2020 |
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Feb 6, 2020 01:25
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drat
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Feb 6, 2020 20:10
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I'm under the impression that Kodak's early coatings are pretty noticeably blue. I'm seeing some WF Ektars listed on ebay that seem to have more of a brown color. Is that a different coating, or the glass itself (perhaps lanthanum?) and people maybe got too aggressive on the fairly soft early coatings and cleaned them off, or are people just not doing a good job of photographing the coating? "brown":  what I thought it's supposed to look like: 
Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Feb 6, 2020 |
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Feb 6, 2020 23:22
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It will depend on the angle of the light and the angle of the camera shooting the photograph of the lens. Could look brown, blue or purple depending on which direction the reflections are going.
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Feb 6, 2020 23:45
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Very difficult to get a good photo in the forests around my area which have very dense and chaotic undergrowth, I feel this one turned out ok but I don't think it captured the atmosphere of the scene (which was very cathedral-like). As a side note hiking for three days with a full compliment of large format gear is tough! Luckily we were able to stay in backcountry huts overnight and we didn't try for too much distance each day. EDIT: Another shot, missed focus a bit and had to crop in so it's a little off... I liked how these trees with their twisted branches were being hit by the afternoon sun but needed a longer lens. 
Blackhawk fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Feb 9, 2020 |
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Feb 8, 2020 23:49
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What's your longest lens right now? I love my Nikkor-M 300mm f/9. It's the longest lens in Copal 1 my Chamonix 045N-2 will focus at inside-the-room focus distances, and weighs only 270g.
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Feb 9, 2020 05:26
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Longest I have now is a Fujinon 210mm f5.6, a 300 would have been better for that shot but really even the 210 would have been fine if I hadn't managed to miss focus.
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Feb 9, 2020 08:11
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I wouldn't worry about the missed focus too much. Both of these shots look very fine to me. The best shots usually survive slight technical deficits while bad shots can not be saved no matter the technical perfection. Seconding the Nikkor-M 300. For the brief time I tried LF I liked that lens quite a bit.
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Feb 10, 2020 02:32
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VomitOnLino posted:I wouldn't worry about the missed focus too much. Both of these shots look very fine to me. The best shots usually survive slight technical deficits while bad shots can not be saved no matter the technical perfection. Thanks! A few more shots from the trip, all three are of an old deer hunter's hut that's now used as an overnight spot for hikers. Infested with mosquitoes and sand flies, but it has a lot of character and even a stained glass window!   
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Feb 10, 2020 08:35
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This is supremely dope. Houses in the neighborhood  
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Feb 11, 2020 22:44
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Feb 12, 2020 00:39
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Feb 14, 2020 16:00
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Someone had once told me about a company that rebuilds Kiev MF cameras but I can’t remember the name of the company. Anyone know what I’m talking about?
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Feb 16, 2020 18:47
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mAlfunkti0n posted:Someone had once told me about a company that rebuilds Kiev MF cameras but I can’t remember the name of the company. Anyone know what I’m talking about? That's almost certainly Arax.
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Feb 16, 2020 18:59
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Yup. Had them do my Kiev 60 last year. Wasn't expensive in photography dollars (about $100 USD) and came back working perfectly and upgraded with mirror lock up, flocked interior and a better focus screen.
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Feb 16, 2020 19:22
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