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Verisimilidude posted:Anyone have recommendations for a D&D miniature carrying case? I need something relatively small that I can fit into a backpack or tote bag, that can hold 10-20 miniatures.
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Feb 5, 2020 20:50
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Toebone posted:If you don't want to spend that much, I grabbed a little clear plastic tackle box from the craft section at Walmart for a couple bucks. No padding, but as long as you're not throwing it around it should be fine. I basically did the same thing, except it is a multi part plastic tool box thing. I do get a little concerned about models with icons they're holding or have on their back. Last time I transported them I used poster puddy to secure them so they didnt jostle around. Either I'm going to get a foam one, or I might magnetize the bases of some minis so they'll stick to a lunch box I have. Granted I mostly play kill team.
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Feb 5, 2020 22:14
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Chessex makes a couple of small figure cases that will hold about 10 regular guys. It's perfect for a DnD party.
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Feb 6, 2020 00:18
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Toebone posted:If you don't want to spend that much, I grabbed a little clear plastic tackle box from the craft section at Walmart for a couple bucks. No padding, but as long as you're not throwing it around it should be fine. Pro move is to magnetize your bases and glue a metal sheet to a plastic tackle box. Cheap, effective. But I don't have time for that so I bought a fancy foam box 
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Feb 6, 2020 00:21
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nesbit37 posted:Get a foam lined pistol case from a store like Gander Mountain or Walmart or some other sporting goods store. It's like $5, works great, but the foam can remove paint over time. Be careful of this because some people will think that there's an actual gun in it, which means some chucklefuck might try and steal it.
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Feb 6, 2020 00:35
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Zaphod42 posted:Pro move is to magnetize your bases and glue a metal sheet to a plastic tackle box. Cheap, effective. My carrying case for years has been a cardboard box with three layers: one inch of polyurethane foam, one piece of sheet metal, and then a one inch foam cutout to outline the sheet metal. Magnetize your bases and they're good to go. The whole setup was basically free and it's worked well.
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Feb 6, 2020 01:07
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I really cannot say enough good things about magnetizing for transport. It’s super easy and fast, and very secure. I have a sling-style bag and I fast walked/ran with most of my imperial fist army in it (including a leviathan dread) like 2 miles the other day, and they hadn’t moved at all when I opened it. For kill team size, 5-15 models, get a metal lunchbox (not aluminum, make sure magnets can stick to it) and superglue a single 6mm by 2mm magnet under each model. That’s all, you now have the most secure transport. You just throw it in a backpack and you don’t have to worry unless you’re using the backpack in a street fight or something. For bigger models, like 40mm bases and up, I use 2 magnets, for the leviathan I used 3.
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Feb 6, 2020 01:45
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I'm still debating about what storage/transport option to use for my Sisters of Battle army. I want to fit my full 2000pts army, and a magnetic option will fit more models in a smaller area vs foam. But stuff like Celestine getting bounced around on just the dumb little purity seal flight stand seems iffy. Also if I go magnets I'd have to decide between the snapware + sheet metal like I did for my Skaven or something like a Tablewar case. Snapware is pretty height limited, though inexpensive.
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Feb 6, 2020 04:19
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Werix posted:Test model for my Tzaangors. Only have 10, so not as important to me as the marines will be. Well, here are the rest of the Tzaangors. They were actually kind of fun to paint. Played around with using some blue wash on the Brayhorn sword, and some of the chainmail. I know, they're not based, I want to wait until I'm done with all the rubrics so I do them all consistently.   Twistbray  Brayhorn  I really like the mutant head.
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Feb 6, 2020 05:16
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Revelation 2-13 posted:I really cannot say enough good things about magnetizing for transport. It’s super easy and fast, and very secure. I have a sling-style bag and I fast walked/ran with most of my imperial fist army in it (including a leviathan dread) like 2 miles the other day, and they hadn’t moved at all when I opened it. Where do you get magnets that work well for this? I bought some flat stick-on magnets at a hobby store and they're barely strong enough to hold themselves up let alone a miniature. I want magnets that will hold these fuckers to the side of a moving truck, if I so choose.
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Feb 6, 2020 17:24
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Enola Gay-For-Pay posted:Where do you get magnets that work well for this? I bought some flat stick-on magnets at a hobby store and they're barely strong enough to hold themselves up let alone a miniature. I want magnets that will hold these fuckers to the side of a moving truck, if I so choose. I recently used 6x2 mm (millimetres, I don’t know what that is in stone age measurements) “n42” neodymium magnets bought on amazon (little circular disc ones) which are plenty strong. Previously I got them from my online warhammer reseller store. In my experience the n42 are just fine but n52 are even stronger if you want that. The models might be a little difficult to pick up from a metal surface, if they can’t slide off. Revelation 2-13 fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Feb 6, 2020 |
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Feb 6, 2020 17:46
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https://www.kjmagnetics.com/ is the only place to go for your magnet needs.
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Feb 6, 2020 17:56
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Those work really well, the only thing I would say is that you need to make sure they are mounted properly on the base - if they stick out too far they'll make the miniature wobbly, and if your base is larger they can end up recessed so they don't actually make contact with the metal. They'll often still hold in that situation, but not as well. I also used the magnetic bases made by Gale Force 9 (I think). They were basically standard bases that had magnetic striping built in to the bottom, and they worked well for anything that wasn't solid metal. Less cost-effective but worth it when I didn't want to spend time mounting magnets on dozens of skinks. I am not sure if they make the same product still.
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Feb 6, 2020 19:26
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Get you a regular rear end metal tool box and stick models wherever with magnets. Then when you arrive to play your games, you have endless paths for one liners. "Heard you got a bug problem, good thing you called the exterminatus" etc. Plus they are just asking to be covered with stickers
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Feb 6, 2020 20:27
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I've used the 6x2 mm sized magnets for bases from 25mm up to 80mm bases (gw standard ones) without any problems. Just a glob of superglue underneath with each magnet and they are rock solid (as mentioned; 1 magnet for 25mm bases, 2 magnets for 40+ and I used 3 for the 80mm). It took me all of 10 minutes total to magnetize the bases of 1500 points of imperial fists.
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Feb 6, 2020 20:41
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nesbit37 posted:https://www.kjmagnetics.com/ is the only place to go for your magnet needs. Ebay is about half the price
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Feb 6, 2020 21:43
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Cross postin. I finished painting a thing. The Contemptor kit is great but good grief I don’t want to assemble an assault cannon again.
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Feb 6, 2020 22:00
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First of a set of 15 Seekers of Slaanesh batch painting.
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Feb 6, 2020 22:42
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Your contemptor is in terrible condition, please take better care of it
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Feb 6, 2020 22:45
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Black Is Black posted:First of a set of 15 Seekers of Slaanesh batch painting. this rules. I love the glowing pink eyes
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Feb 6, 2020 22:47
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Ignite Memories posted:Your contemptor is in terrible condition, please take better care of it  All that damage around the exhaust stacks and the knee trim? Actually mishaps involving trying to strip paint off of resin. I also managed to crack his hip right in half while trying to disassemble after shoving it in the freezer. My models are authentically battle damaged by my own incompetence.
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Feb 6, 2020 23:00
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Mr Teatime posted:
To avoid these issues in the future I suggest using Super Clean. It destroys paint without harming resin or plastic and also eats through super glue so that the model just falls apart with the slightest pressure.
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Feb 7, 2020 01:36
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Black Is Black posted:First of a set of 15 Seekers of Slaanesh batch painting. I like that base, do you use different technical paints to get the different sized cracks or just use different thicknesses of the same technical paint?
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Feb 7, 2020 03:27
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Filthy Hans posted:I like that base, do you use different technical paints to get the different sized cracks or just use different thicknesses of the same technical paint? Just different thicknesses.
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Feb 7, 2020 07:32
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Whats the best place to buy bits these days? I inherited some Orks that my friend had converted into Lootas with other random guns he had from his other armies, and I like the look and want to fill out the squad with a couple additional models. I'd want to get some heavy weapons, probably either IG, marines, or another suitable-to-loot army. Last time I bought bits was years ago, I think through the warstore.
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Feb 7, 2020 15:50
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New and exciting ways to gunk up my models has arrived.  
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Feb 7, 2020 18:50
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  My first Space Marine! I've done tanks before, but these seem to have so many more fiddly bits on them.
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Feb 7, 2020 19:54
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Twincityhacker posted:
I like the colors you went with! I would spend some time though practicing with thinning your paints. It looks like you covered up some of the finer details with paint that is too thick. [edit] Actually, looking back at my own space marines, yours is fine! Sorry for the completely unhelpful critique. I should know unthinned paint when I see it judging by my own models. 
I said come in! fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Feb 7, 2020 |
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Feb 7, 2020 19:57
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I will absolutely practice thinning my paints. And thnak you! I think the damage is done for this lot because I primed the Space Marine half of Dark Vengence, and I think I screwed up the primeing stage. 
Twincityhacker fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Feb 7, 2020 |
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Feb 7, 2020 20:45
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Twincityhacker posted:I will absolutely practice thinning my paints. And thnak you! That stuff is really tough to get down! I still mess up with it, and my biggest issue to this day when brushing large areas, is having obvious streaks of paint, especially white. That color can pretty much only be done with an airspray can, or airbrush.
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Feb 7, 2020 20:48
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Twincityhacker posted:I will absolutely practice thinning my paints. And thnak you! is this gloss black primer? what's your concern with your prime job?
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Feb 7, 2020 20:54
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Cat Face Joe posted:is this gloss black primer? what's your concern with your prime job? It's Krylon black gloss primer, yeah. When I was priming them I got impatient and I think I sprayed it on too thick.
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Feb 7, 2020 21:03
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Twincityhacker posted:It's Krylon black gloss primer, yeah. When I was priming them I got impatient and I think I sprayed it on too thick. I suggest not priming with gloss primer unless you're subsequently spraying a metallic over it and going for maximum shine.
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Feb 7, 2020 21:17
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Been looking to get into the hobby thanks to Goobertown making great videos. Only concern I have, is the frequent two handed manipulation he does to bring the models closer to his face. I have an half arm with no real hand, so it would be hard to manipulate like that Any goons out there with mobility or holding challenges have any solutions that worked for them? This feels very solvable, but I'd like to avoid spending the big buckaroos just on a prosthetic.
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Feb 7, 2020 22:57
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Can you hold things with your half-arm? If so, a painting handle might be enough for you - there are tons of models, but here is Games Workshop's one, as an example. Or, you can do what I do, which is to use a hot glue gun to glue the base of the model to an empty pill box. The hot glue is really easy to peel off once you are done. If you don't have that level of function in the arm, I've seen clamps mounted on arms like a desk lamp's at hardware stores - You could use one of those in combination with a painting handle to hold the model up. Geisladisk fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Feb 7, 2020 |
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Feb 7, 2020 23:08
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Geisladisk posted:If you don't have that level of function in your half-arm, I've seen clamps mounted on arms like a desk lamp's at hardware stores - You could use one of those in combination with a painting handle to hold the model up. I unfortunately don't have much of any gripping ability, but I do really dig this idea. I'll see if there's some kind of gooseneck clamp that would work like that. edit: oh baby I think you may have nailed it https://snakeclamp.com/collections/workholding
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Feb 7, 2020 23:14
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Famethrowa posted:I unfortunately don't have much of any gripping ability, but I do really dig this idea. I'll see if there's some kind of gooseneck clamp that would work like that. Seems good to me. Just a thought, but maybe look into a workspace you can light well from multiple angles and that you can easily move around (stool or chair on wheels). That way you would have to reposition the model less frequently. I know that I'm constantly tilting my model this way and that while painting, which if you have to put your brush down to do could be a hassle and might even be a factor considering the drying times of the paint and just generally the flow tou get into. Being able to reposition yourself physically around the model instead of the other way around could be pleasant. Then again, I'm absolutely new to painting as well (having only done like a dozen so far) so like I said, just a thought.
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Feb 8, 2020 00:04
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Famethrowa posted:Been looking to get into the hobby thanks to Goobertown making great videos. Only concern I have, is the frequent two handed manipulation he does to bring the models closer to his face. I have an half arm with no real hand, so it would be hard to manipulate like that I don't use one myself, but I've seen people use these things so that might be helpful. There are a bazillion similar products out there so try searching on google or amazon or whatever with the terms "helping hands" + "workbench" to find one you like.
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Feb 8, 2020 01:50
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Twincityhacker posted:It's Krylon black gloss primer, yeah. When I was priming them I got impatient and I think I sprayed it on too thick. Is it still wet? Sometimes primer looks like its too thick but it just needs longer to fully dry. You definitely can over-prime, and should prime from the right distance under the right conditions. But in my experience spray primer is designed to get sprayed all over and coat the model but then dry down pretty thin. Even if it is fully dry, that model doesn't look so horrible that I'd call it a lost cause.  Just make sure you thin your paints when you go to brush on top of it.
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Feb 8, 2020 01:57
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Stormtroopers are cool
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Feb 8, 2020 02:47
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