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Oh, that total isn't just the machine shop. That's their labor, new valves and seals, set the valve lash, deck the block, polish and measure the crank and mains, new bearings, and the possibility of any cracked pistons. Plus all the gaskets, hoses, a new radiator, and a new clutch for me to put everything back together and back into the car. I could probably scrape it together for less, but most of the PCV lines split taking them off, the downpipe was apparently cracked off right behind the last cat, and the inlet pipe to the turbo was soft as a sponge at the turbo inlet. I'm using this motor pull as an excuse to try and fix everything I possibly can, so I don't have to repeat the experience again. My wife is hesitant to spend this much fixing a car that's honestly only worth $2500 at best, but replacing it would cost significantly more. Eventually we'll replace mine with an Outback, but I'd like it to be one of the new XTs when they start coming into the used market in 3-4 years.
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Feb 13, 2020 04:46
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I'm starting to think one of the POs had head gaskets done on Brokeback. Why? #1, the valve covers don't leak at all, don't even seep (though the front and rear crank seals make it rain). #2, it's not leaking from the head gaskets. #3, it's tappy as gently caress - it sounds like whoever slapped it together didn't bother setting valve lash. It runs fine, has no power (as to be expected with a EJ253 in a 2 ton AWD wagon; the 0-60 time as measured with the speedometer + stopwatch seems pretty much dead on what it was rated for when new), gets close to EPA rated mileage, doesn't throw any codes, it just sounds like the valves are hilariously out of adjustment. #4, the motor mount nuts and bolts weren't even hand tight (no wonder it was slamming into reverse... that was the entire engine slapping a motor mount and yelling "who's a bitch now, bitch?" - no more slamming into gear after tightening up the mounts).
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Feb 13, 2020 07:40
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Welp I failed my annual check Parking lights not working Rear wheel bearing rough on rotation The parking lights I can do myself but does anyone have an idea of how many hours' labour the wheel bearing should be?
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Feb 13, 2020 11:19
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simplefish posted:Welp I failed my annual check Most rear wheel bearings are a hub unit. If your car doesn't have a lot of rust it should be a simple job, plus the hub is cheap on rockauto. It's 4 bolts for the hub and then pull it off the half shaft. I'd say 1 hour of work.
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Feb 14, 2020 00:48
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My LGT is getting a sidefeed -> topfeed conversion, AEM 340 fuel pump, and a Killer B Holy Header. VF52. I have the conversion rails and injectors already. I’ll need new lines, right? Should I go from series to parallel plumbing? Edit: should I upgrade/change my FPR?
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Feb 14, 2020 17:19
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mustard_tiger posted:Most rear wheel bearings are a hub unit. If your car doesn't have a lot of rust it should be a simple job, plus the hub is cheap on rockauto. It's 4 bolts for the hub and then pull it off the half shaft. I'd say 1 hour of work. Speaking of, I know my RR wheel bearing is so-so (I could barely hear it humming before I torched the RF hub/spindle to get the drat axle out - the RF drowns everything out now, of course). Rockauto lists complete bearing + hub assemblies, but the pictures show just the bearing for the rear, and they don't list rear hubs at all (the same section shows complete hubs + bearings + snap rings + seals for the front). Is this just a fuckup on Rockauto's part? I tried putting the p/n they showed for Timken into Timken's website, and it comes up as just the bearing. I'm not finding hubs for the rear anywhere except eBay, and they've been no-name bearings with hubs already pressed in. I don't like doing the same job twice, I prefer to stick with name brands when it comes to bearings. I was hoping to just do a quick R&R, but since I can't find a complete hub + bearing, I'm probably gonna have to find a press.  Gonna need one anyway for the RF, I was just hoping to reduce lift rental time. Maybe I'd be better off going to a JY and getting a used bearing w/hub and trying my luck?e: 2003 Outback wagon randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Feb 14, 2020 |
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Feb 14, 2020 17:35
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STR posted:Speaking of, I know my RR wheel bearing is so-so (I could barely hear it humming before I torched the RF hub/spindle to get the drat axle out - the RF drowns everything out now, of course). I went with OEM (which was just the bearing unit). You could in theory do it without a press. Slidehammer to get the hub out, ???? To get the hub into the new bearing unit. Maybe someone else has an idea for the pressing in of the hub.
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Feb 14, 2020 22:15
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2005 EJ20T with ~100,000km (60,000 miles). Have a timing belt kit sitting in my garage I keep meaning to get to. On every youtube video I watch, everything looks simple enough until it comes time to remove the cam/crank pulleys, at which point the Youtuber struggles and swears for 5 minutes, and then cuts to 4 days later and "well that wasn't so easy, but we ended up getting the bolts loose using a combination of nuclear explosives and my entire church praying at once". Is it irresponsible to just ignore even attempting to get at the cam/crank seals? I don't have any reason to believe they are leaking any significant amounts of oil, if at all.
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Feb 14, 2020 22:26
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00-04 Legacy/ob is weird. the bearing carrier bolts into the upright/trailing arm deal, but the hub is still a separate press in part. However, I feel like you could probably use the 05-09 hub/bearing unit. I've never had them side by side or tried it though.Kreez posted:2005 EJ20T with ~100,000km (60,000 miles). If they aren't leaking, don't touch it. But, the secret to getting the cam bolts out is a big rear end breaker bar and a good 1/2 drive 10mm hex socket. Like, a one piece impact socket not one of those ones that has the chunk of hex pressed into a holder. And not a 3/8 socket with an adapter. Then, with the cam gear held firmly in place, and the socket seated fully in the bolt (I just use a strip of old timing belt wrapped around the crank pulley and cam gear), you want to jump up and crank down as hard and fast as you can to break it loose. The come off without issue like 99% of the time for me. Otherwise, you can drill out the bolts. Once the head of the bolt is off the shank will unthread by hand as the tension is released. jamal fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Feb 14, 2020 |
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Feb 14, 2020 22:28
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STR posted:Speaking of, I know my RR wheel bearing is so-so (I could barely hear it humming before I torched the RF hub/spindle to get the drat axle out - the RF drowns everything out now, of course). 03s can use the rear hub+bearing assemblies from the 05-09 The axle sits slightly shallower but otherwise it works.
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Feb 14, 2020 22:37
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Kreez posted:2005 EJ20T with ~100,000km (60,000 miles). Crank bolt is easy get a big rear end 1/2, wedge it against the frame give the starter a good crank and it'll loosen the bolt almost immediately, done that a bunch never had it not work. I learned it from the Subaru techs when I was wrenching at the sister vw dealership.
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Feb 15, 2020 03:52
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Yeah the cam pulleys are a massive motherfucker, if the seals are dry I leave them
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Feb 15, 2020 05:28
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jamal posted:00-04 Legacy/ob is weird. the bearing carrier bolts into the upright/trailing arm deal, but the hub is still a separate press in part. However, I feel like you could probably use the 05-09 hub/bearing unit. I've never had them side by side or tried it though. bonelessdongs posted:03s can use the rear hub+bearing assemblies from the 05-09 Cool, good to know. I assume I'd use the torque specs for an 05-09 for the axle nut? (assuming it's even different from the 00-04...)
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Feb 15, 2020 17:12
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STR posted:Cool, good to know. I assume I'd use the torque specs for an 05-09 for the axle nut? (assuming it's even different from the 00-04...) drat I just got 2 units for the 03 I wish I knew the complete 05-09s would have worked. Doing the struts too so hopefully I wont have to undo the BABs to get the axles out but I forget if it works that way. I can get the babs out but it usually takes hours.
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Feb 15, 2020 20:32
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STR posted:Cool, good to know. I assume I'd use the torque specs for an 05-09 for the axle nut? (assuming it's even different from the 00-04...) I'd use whichever is tighter. I should mention I haven't done mine yet and I only found out I could use the 05-09 assemblies after I already had the bearings delivered
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Feb 15, 2020 20:58
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Let's pretend someone doesn't know what a BAB is. e: I just watched a quick video on it, it looks dead simple aside from the lower bolt probably being slightly seized. 3 nuts and 1 bolt. What could go wrong 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Feb 15, 2020 |
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Feb 15, 2020 22:50
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Hopefully some of you have read The Jaunt Wronger than you think, dad, wronger than you think...
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Feb 16, 2020 04:14
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I have a 2016 WRX and it currently has some cheap steel wheels with snow tires on em. Can I have new tires put on the OEM wheels and still have the TPMS work properly if the car is not present at the time the tires are mounted? They are still mated to the car, but I don't know if they need to do anything to them when they swap out the tires and if I can drop them off for a few days it would be helpful vs having the car present.
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Feb 16, 2020 04:44
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They'll be fine, yea. As someone who constantly brings Costco loose wheels for my 2015 WRX, they don't need to be near the car to maintain programming. Once the ECU has it set, it only looks for them, even if they're not in range. Bring the wheels back, and they connect like nothing happened. Don't know if you have TPMS on your winters, but I have an ATEQ Quickset to swap back and forth. It's already well paid for itself. You only need to get the winters programmed once by the dealer, activated if you will, then copy the IDs onto the Quickset.
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Feb 16, 2020 05:25
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STR posted:Let's pretend someone doesn't know what a BAB is. Big rear end Bolt. Which isn't applicable to this generation as far as I know. The Impreza has it and it's a long mother that loves to seize and cause headaches when you need to touch it.
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Feb 16, 2020 05:43
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03 Outbacks don't have them? That'd be awesome, I haven't even looked back there yet haha
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Feb 16, 2020 06:16
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shy boy from chess club posted:Yeah the cam pulleys are a massive motherfucker, if the seals are dry I leave them I'm not so sure about that now........ engine out a basic Ryobi impact gun will get them zero issue. Engine in..... okay I got a 90 degree air gun but TBH there's 90 degree adapters for cordless or even cordless 90 degree that can handle it appearing now? It's not actually THAT high a torque rating needed.
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Feb 16, 2020 11:22
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um excuse me posted:They'll be fine, yea. As someone who constantly brings Costco loose wheels for my 2015 WRX, they don't need to be near the car to maintain programming. Once the ECU has it set, it only looks for them, even if they're not in range. Bring the wheels back, and they connect like nothing happened. Awesome, thanks.
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Feb 16, 2020 13:11
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Bajaha posted:Big rear end Bolt. Which isn't applicable to this generation as far as I know. The Impreza has it and it's a long mother that loves to seize and cause headaches when you need to touch it. Oh THAT fucker. Yeah it's not on the 2nd gen Outback (it'd be on the Baja if it was I think?). I saw a SMA video about that fucker. I don't think it'd be a massive issue on mine if I did have it (it did spend half its life in Canada, but in BC - the car has less rust than a lot of Texas cars, and still rocks the original rust-free exhaust), but it'd definitely be an issue for him. It's just a single 19mm bolt and 19mm nut holding the bottom of the shock/spring assembly on the rear, but for Pipkin, I'd count on having to cut that bolt. Still, it's just a through-bolt; worst case it gets seized in the bushing, which comes out with the old assembly.
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Feb 16, 2020 17:23
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:I'm not so sure about that now........ engine out a basic Ryobi impact gun will get them zero issue. Engine in..... okay I got a 90 degree air gun but TBH there's 90 degree adapters for cordless or even cordless 90 degree that can handle it appearing now? It's not actually THAT high a torque rating needed. It wasnt really the torque or applying it it was the tool between the torque applier and the stupid 10mm allen because they kept exploding before turning the bolt. I still wouldnt change the seals if theyre dry especially if its someone that doesnt deal with something that specifically annoying all the time like we do.
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Feb 16, 2020 19:44
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xposting from the LX 470 threadhot cocoa on the couch posted:Just wanna report in great success on the TowRunner. Picked up a new race car and towed it 60km home. Can't wait to get in the mud with both of these things this spring/summer! Finally took possession of this rallycross 2003 Impreza TS. I've been working on getting my 4runner that I bought back in January tow capable and I finally finished with it and picked this bad bitch up. I'll be out there sliding on the gravel with it in the coming months, as every Subaru should be!
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Feb 16, 2020 22:48
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I need to put new struts in my drinking age OBS, and I'm wondering if I want to do the OEM KYB GR2s or if I want to try sticking something else in there. Would WRX wagon struts lower the ride or just stiffen it a bit? I'd prefer to keep the ride height, but improving handling would be nice. Although these things are so blown anything would be an improvement probably.
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Feb 17, 2020 17:20
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:xposting from the LX 470 thread This is awesome, you are awesome. What's on it for exhaust?
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Feb 17, 2020 17:21
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Sheared off a wheel lug on my wife's 2016 WRX. Bought a spare lug and lug nut. Is there anything else beyond removing the wheel, the caliper bracket and the rotor, hammering out the bad stud and pushing in the new one? Car has to be driven tomorrow am and don't want to end up in a bind with some nonsense jellyfish problem.
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Feb 17, 2020 17:34
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Nope. Dealership does the same thing. I'd personally get the rust out from behind the rotor while I'm in there, maybe a coat of antisieze.
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Feb 17, 2020 19:10
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Ideally you press it out, like with a c-clamp and little piece of pipe or something, to avoid hammering on the hub/bearing, but it's probably not that huge of a deal. And yeah, make sure the hub surface and rotor are clean and I also like to put a bit of anti-seize on there. And maybe get yourself a standard m12x1.5 nut and some washers instead of using a tapered lug nut to pull the stud back in. And re-check the torque on that one after a bit of driving.
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Feb 17, 2020 21:22
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Just did it. Went well enough. Definitely going to use washers next time to snug it down. Used the radiator bolt to free the rotor from the hub. Everything else came off easy.
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Feb 17, 2020 23:54
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I need to put new struts in my drinking age OBS, and I'm wondering if I want to do the OEM KYB GR2s or if I want to try sticking something else in there. Would WRX wagon struts lower the ride or just stiffen it a bit? I'd prefer to keep the ride height, but improving handling would be nice. Although these things are so blown anything would be an improvement probably. For what it’s worth when my 04 wrx wagon struts needed replacement I put kyb gr2s on it and really liked them.
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Feb 18, 2020 00:03
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Sadi posted:For what it’s worth when my 04 wrx wagon struts needed replacement I put kyb gr2s on it and really liked them. Gonna quote this too as I has the same experience with my 04 as well.
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Feb 18, 2020 01:19
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stevobob posted:This is awesome, you are awesome. What's on it for exhaust? The guy I bought it from bought it with that exhaust. It's some cat-back exhaust off the shelf, but its been beat up and rewelded a couple times, and there used to be a muffler but its since been removed. So its functionally a straight pipe from the cat back. He also custom fabbed a new intake pipe and exterior scoop leading to a cold air intake in the engine, pretty cool to see the fab job:   (Bad pics sorry, my garage is dim and I need a new shop light) The filter is in it's own lexan intake box, the cover is removed here. The car is in somewhat rough shape, it is a rallycross car after all. It's quite dirty, the last owner has 3 other Imprezas (one a full stage rally car build) hes working on and this one was his first RX car. Mechanically it's working well though, and just won last years club championship in a field of 40-50 cars. Current to-do is: 1) replace the wheels. He kept all his rally wheels and gave me the stock 16" rims with some old blizzak winterforces on them (rallycross usually uses soft rubber like winter tires year round as a budget tire). One was flat and I wanted to go to 15" anyway so I picked up 8 15" wheels with used winters on them that I'm gonna use until I can get my hands on some (probably used, again) rally tires. Packed clay mud and gravel is the terrain around here. I want to test all the tires for ability to hold pressure and hardness with a durometer tho so I can set up the car properly for conditions. 2) the engine occasionally gives a misfire code. I've driven it while it was coding and it doesn't sound like there's any misfire at all so it seems like it could be a coil pack issue. The cylinder that is supposedly misfiring has a slightly corroded/burnt looking plug on the coil pack so this seems a likely culprit. The thing is the code comes and goes so sporadically it's hard to test. I'll probably just replace the coil pack altogether and see if that gets rid of it. 3) the charging system has been coding sporadically since the past race. The previous owner threw in a spare alternator with the car if it turns out to be that. Not sure if it's that or maybe wiring. This one too, only codes sporadically so that leads me to believe its wiring somewhere. I'll be giving this a thorough look over. Aside from that the car performs very well and all it needs is a decent clean. I'll give it a half decent job since its just gonna get filthy again, but I'd like to do a little photoshoot with it too. After I take care of those little concerns, I have a few future upgrades I'd like to make: 1) front strut tower brace. The rear strut towers are tied together and there is a mid-body brace/5-point harness bar, but I believe he removed the front for use in another car. This is fairly cheap and an easy way to improve cornering on loose stuff and in general. 2) real tires/wheels. I'd like to go to some light weight rims and get some actual rally tires for the surface I'll be on. I volunteer a lot and I've been planning to ask teams if I can buy their cast offs (a lot of stage rally teams discard tires after 1 race, despite having 60-70% tread remaining). Some light weight rims too should help keep my unsprung weight down and help cornering 3) racing flywheel. This will probably be the only driveline upgrade I'll make (in tandem with the clutch, I guess). I want to practice digging into the guts of the car to make changes and pulling the trans seems to be a good place to start. Plus lightening the flywheel returns gains of 10-fold or greater due to rotational inertia. A light flywheel will help accelerate out of corners faster and in rallycross, most of the track is tight and technical corners. 4) racing clutch. This one is probably unnecessary and I'm still contemplating whether I'll go with racing clutch or something more stock. The air flow system has been substantially upgraded so engine power is up but its been running on a stock clutch all this time and has been fine. But I'm pulling the trans so I may as well change it. Still, a firmer clutch should help launches and reduce slipping After that, it depends on how long I keep the car. I'm planning on using the car as something to abuse in learning more rally driving (only done a couple schools and a couple rallycrosses so far) and breaking/fixing a rally car. If I stick with it, I'll be upgrading the suspension components as needed. Engine power is aplenty right now for the application so I probably wont do anything with that, except maybe an ECU remap if it strikes my fancy. We'll see where this all takes me. That ended up being quite a post haha. I'll post updates of my journey deeper into rally if anyone cares.
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Feb 18, 2020 03:02
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So it looks like the original fog light lenses on my car are glass. One has been replaced, I'm not sure if it's OEM or aftermarket (I haven't tapped on the lens to figure out what it's made of yet). The other is broken - it's holding together, the bulb somehow hasn't popped yet, but obviously broken glass. vs passenger side  Should I try to track down a used OEM, or just get an aftermarket one? The guy I got my 03-04 tow hook cover from is sending me a 00-02 cover (my car is an 03, but either got a 00-02 cover thrown on at some point, or got a leftover since it was #74 off of the line with a build date of 5/02), and offered to throw in the fog light grills for $cheap. Wondering if aftermarket fogs will retain them decently. Sidenote: I do plan to get a bumper cover in better condition at some point (this one is beat to hell). I'm also leaning toward it being a leftover 02 bumper since the plastic edge trim is cleanly attached all the way around on both sides, and the paint matches the rest of the plastic cladding perfectly.
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Feb 22, 2020 19:07
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If you actually live somewhere that needs foglights I'd replace them with aftermarket ones. Otherwise, aim for a delete. How was the headlight harness when you were doing the replacement? I've seen them corrode on that generation of Legacy/Outback and put a lot of load on the electrical system when you first fire up the headlights, especially if you turn the headlights on with the car by leaving the switch set to "on."
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Feb 23, 2020 05:12
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We do get a lot of fog west of town (and it's pretty hilly there), and I still do delivery work one night a week that often takes me out there. Though I was intending to rewire them to work independently of the headlights. I had to unplug the DRL module when I went the HID route; the ballasts really didn't like the reduced power. Plan is to use the fogs as DRLs. Apparently it's easy enough to get the fog switch to work with ignition power, and they'll still shut off when you switch to high beams. I didn't cut any wires on the car side harness, but I did cut the pigtails off of the original halogen headlights to wire to the JDM lights. Wiring looked brand new, pins in the plugs looked brand new, the plugs just didn't want to come apart easily. And at the moment, I normally do keep the headlight switch on; since the DRLs are disabled, I like having them on whenever I'm driving. I have the original US turn signal/parking light sockets sitting on my desk (the bulb goes in from the bottom on the JDM housings, so I had to use the sockets that came with them - they have a right angle socket), and even those look new aside from a little dirt. Not too surprising since they had the original bulbs still in them. Interestingly, the wiring from the JDM lights is significantly beefier than the USDM wiring - I'd guess 14 (maybe even 12) gauge for the two positives and the high beam ground, and 16 for the HID ground. The US wiring is 16 with a shared positive between them, despite the high beam bulb being the same wattage on both (65). I assume the HID ballasts have a bit of inrush current, but the ballast ground is the same gauge as the US wiring (and on the headlight side of the plug, both wires to the ballast are 16).  The JDM wiring did have some corrosion that had made its way up the wires - I'm not sure if that's because they'd just cut the plugs off and left them exposed for who knows how long or not, I only got a couple of inches of wire with them. And when I said aftermarket, I meant an aftermarket replacement for the original housing, not an aftermarket set of lights. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Feb 23, 2020 |
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Feb 23, 2020 06:07
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If you actually live somewhere that needs foglights I'd replace them with aftermarket ones. Otherwise, aim for a delete. My 00 legacy had that issue, the real wtf is how inadequate the OEM alternator is (even new) and the piss poor grounds that Subaru chooses.
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Feb 23, 2020 18:44
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I haven't had any electrical issues with mine, though I do have a newish battery and an OEM alternator (PO went to the local dealer to get it installed last summer  ). The battery I suspect crapped on a road trip in Mexico; all the labels on it are in Spanish, and I found receipts in the car from ATMs in Mexico. It's still an AC Delco battery, and it tests good. 13.8 at idle with the headlights on and HVAC blower cranked up.Isn't the alternator only rated at something like 80 amps? Seems pretty low, especially with the winter package stuff. I think I remember the owner's manual warning against leaving the heated windshield and heated mirrors on for too long, even while driving, so as not to run down the battery. 
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Feb 23, 2020 20:09
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