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big cummers ONLY posted:1920x1080, I don't know the refresh rate but here is the monitor's spec page https://www.asus.com/Monitors/VC239H/specifications/ Looks like 60Hz, so 60fps is the most you'll need games to run and a 1660 Super should be a pretty good fit! A 1660 is a good choice, too, but I'd consider upgrading to a EVGA 1660 Super for $40 more. It's a ~15% performance boost, and the EVGA has a zero-rpm mode that the Ventus lacks (the fans turn off when the gpu isn't stressed, i.e. desktop, watching movies, etc.). Check out Babeltech's performance benchmarks for the 1660/1660 Super/1660 Ti to see if you think it might be worth it. Keep in mind that these are mostly Very High/Ultra setting benchmarks, so you can get a decent performance boost in most games by turning down a few settings. You can ignore partpicker's motherboard warning - the "MAX" B450 motherboards released after 3rd-gen Ryzen, so they're guaranteed to be compatible out of the box! Klungar posted:My rig is all put together, but it's been over a decade since I did a fresh system install. Anyone have a good guide for the steps I need to take? When I hook up to a monitor, should I hook up directly to the motherboard or to the video card at first? Hook up a keyboard and try to boot to BIOS, does it matter what USB slot I hook the keyboard up to? I've got a Windows install on a USB flash drive, what prep do I need to do on the system be ready to load that? You'll definitely want to start with the monitor hooked up to the video card. The motherboard ports only connect to the CPU's integrated gpu, and if you have a Ryzen processor it won't have one! USB port shouldn't matter for keyboard/mouse, and there's nothing special you need to do to get ready to install Windows. If you have some old drives with data I'd leave them disconnected until Windows is installed, though, just to make absolutely sure that you can't accidentally tell windows to wipe and install on those drives!
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Feb 20, 2020 02:05
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Klyith posted:3600 CL16 is pretty expensive, and 3600 CL18 is not significantly faster than 3200 CL16. On Ryzen what you most want is to get above 3000 on the memory clock, and after that the memory performance is mainly determined by clock divided by timings. 3600/18 = 3200/16, within a small margin. What if I don't want to mess around with any of that and just want to put it in the slot and go? *edit* this wasnt sarcasm and I appreciate your explanation but I just want to be lazy 
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Feb 20, 2020 02:18
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Basticle posted:What if I don't want to mess around with any of that and just want to put it in the slot and go? Your motherboard will have a QVL list linked on it's webpage. Grab one of those for optimal results.
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Feb 20, 2020 02:27
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Basticle posted:What if I don't want to mess around with any of that and just want to put it in the slot and go? The ballistix sport LT in my second link is on the tomahawk max's QVL, assuming that's still the mobo you're picking (under BLS16G4D32AESB.M16FE, which is the model # for single sticks rather than 2 channel kits). Throw it in the mobo, update the BIOS to make sure it covers everything on the QVL, turn on XMP, done. If you want to pay $50 more for faster ram, this Corsair LPX is fast and not totally outrageous like the dominator 3600-C16 kits. But I don't think it's worth $50. Unless you want RGB blinky lights, do you need those? 
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Feb 20, 2020 02:50
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Klyith posted:The ballistix sport LT in my second link is on the tomahawk max's QVL, assuming that's still the mobo you're picking (under BLS16G4D32AESB.M16FE, which is the model # for single sticks rather than 2 channel kits). Throw it in the mobo, update the BIOS to make sure it covers everything on the QVL, turn on XMP, done. thanks thats precicsely the info I was looking for (I had been looking at that page on MSI's site but every single stick I looked at had slightly different model numbers I guess because it was pairs and I was going nuts) PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($174.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.97 @ Amazon) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($74.95 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($95.98 @ Newegg) Total: $460.89 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-02-19 20:53 EST-0500 look ok (per my previous post a few weeks ago I'm keeping my current drives and video card)?
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Feb 20, 2020 02:55
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I replaced my old GPU recently (shoutout to Klyith who helped me pick the RTX 2060 Super) and now I'm looking to upgrade the rest of the components to match it. I have no idea about CPUs or motherboards, so I just compared a couple of build guides as well as posts in here and frankensteined something together. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($174.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition 42 CFM CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: ASRock B450 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($91.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER 8 GB WINDFORCE OC Video Card ($399.99 @ Amazon) - Already got this one Things that I will keep from my old build: Power Supply: Corsair RM 650x PLUS Gold (maybe 2 years old by now) Monitor: Asus vg248 144Hz Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case Any opinions or any obvious mistakes here? I don't really have a tight budget, so I'd be willing to upgrade any of the components if it makes sense. The computer will mostly be used for gaming and a bit of GIMP and Reaper (DAW). I'm gunning for max settings at 1080p for the foreseeable future.
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Feb 20, 2020 09:19
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My current machine will be 8 years old in April, other than a few component upgrades over the years (new PSU, SSD, case, GPU). I might build a completely new machine this year but will probably wait until the Ryzen 4th gen CPUs drop. I'd be hoping for another 8 year lifespan (possible GPU upgrade aside) from the new build, so I take it the 3700x equivalent in 4th gen Ryzen would be the best bet? I know the 3600 is the current sweet spot but I'd be hoping for more longevity than 6C/12T, especially with the new games consoles likely having 8C/16T. Thoughts?
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Feb 20, 2020 11:02
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Quick dumb question; I just benchmarked my new rig, and my SDD and RAM are performing way below expectations. Not all that concerned as everything runs quite fine, but was wondering what could be the problem here. The ram especially; I did choose it without much research so wonder if I choose poorly. At worse it's not a world-endingly expensive part so kinda whatever and if there's something better I could pick it up and I also realized I wouldn't mind RGB as my only visibly lit-up thing now is my GPU and it looks lonely. Ninja edit: Just realized the type of people to run benchmarks probably also overclock or tune their RAM which might be why if the benchmark program doesn't capture that which I'm guessing it doesn't; I haven't touched any advanced setting/overclocking yet as everything I've run is fast as gently caress now anyway. Edit 2: https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/24813681 LimburgLimbo fucked around with this message at 13:06 on Feb 20, 2020 |
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Feb 20, 2020 13:03
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LimburgLimbo posted:Ninja edit: Just realized the type of people to run benchmarks probably also overclock or tune their RAM which might be why if the benchmark program doesn't capture that which I'm guessing it doesn't; I haven't touched any advanced setting/overclocking yet as everything I've run is fast as gently caress now anyway.
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Feb 20, 2020 13:14
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Llamadeus posted:You have to manually enable XMP/DOCP in the BIOS for RAM to run at its advertised speed. Right now you're running 3200 MT/s RAM at 2133, which is obviously less than optimal. Yeah I'm dumb; just as I came to edit my post realized remembered seeing that in the build guides I saw but was distracted when at 5am I finished assembling and cable managing then it seemed to not POST properly haha, then was just happy it was running and moved on to the hassle of getting windows installed correctly and updated and forgot about RAM settings. Also noticed that there's a spike in the benchmarks of RAM at the speed I'm getting which means at least I'm not alone in being dumb. Edit: way better now: https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/24816112 though still on the lower side for the RAM. After a bit may get another SSD alongside some better RAM hahaha LimburgLimbo fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Feb 20, 2020 |
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Feb 20, 2020 13:21
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Klungar posted:My rig is all put together, but it's been over a decade since I did a fresh system install. Anyone have a good guide for the steps I need to take? When I hook up to a monitor, should I hook up directly to the motherboard or to the video card at first? Hook up a keyboard and try to boot to BIOS, does it matter what USB slot I hook the keyboard up to? I've got a Windows install on a USB flash drive, what prep do I need to do on the system be ready to load that? JayzTwoCents just did a video about this part of the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RYYoCXh2gtw
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Feb 20, 2020 14:48
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Stickman posted:You'll definitely want to start with the monitor hooked up to the video card. The motherboard ports only connect to the CPU's integrated gpu, and if you have a Ryzen processor it won't have one! USB port shouldn't matter for keyboard/mouse, and there's nothing special you need to do to get ready to install Windows. If you have some old drives with data I'd leave them disconnected until Windows is installed, though, just to make absolutely sure that you can't accidentally tell windows to wipe and install on those drives! Thanks for the response. I'm not getting video output from my Radeon 5700 onto my TV, and as my Motherboard doesn't seem to have any diagnostic LEDs, I'm at a loss as to where to begin debugging this. The Radeon 5700 has 4 ports, DP/HDMI/DP/DP, and I'm currently trying to connect to my TV with an HDMI-to-HDMI connection. Do I need to connect to the first DisplayPort with a DisplayPort-compatible monitor to get this thing set-up initially before I get all the drivers installed? e: Looks like the 5700 not actually outputting anything on the HDMI port is a common problem, I'll buy a DirectPort-to-HDMI cable and hope that fixes things. Scruff McGruff posted:JayzTwoCents just did a video about this part of the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RYYoCXh2gtw e: Hey, thanks! Klungar fucked around with this message at 15:02 on Feb 20, 2020 |
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Feb 20, 2020 14:49
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Stickman posted:Helpful stuff Thanks again! You guys always help me feel more confident in a large, scary purchase.
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Feb 20, 2020 15:06
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Hey there again guys, sorry to bother you. Even if I'm living in Peru, I guess the money difference would be 200$. So I would like to know whats the best I can build with 700-650$ (monitor not included and want to buy one) for gaming.
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Feb 20, 2020 16:08
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turboraton posted:Hey there again guys, sorry to bother you. Even if I'm living in Peru, I guess the money difference would be 200$. So I would like to know whats the best I can build with 700-650$ (monitor not included and want to buy one) for gaming. Part availability in other countries can be radically different, so the below is an outline but if you have any websites I could look at to get an idea of what's available I'd be happy to put together something more concrete. 1600AF / 2600 ASRock Pro4 B450 / whatever B450 board is affordable in Peru 500gb or better SSD, HDD for extra space if necessary Bronze or better PSU from a name brand Case of choice GPU availability and pricing can be especially different, base recommendation for the US for 1080p60 is a 1660Super, I'd aim for 580 8gb at a minimum.
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Feb 20, 2020 16:27
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FeastForCows posted:CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition 42 CFM CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg) Strongly recommended upgrade: step the mobo up to a tomahawk max like everyone else ITT. Or an aorus elite for the same $ if you want more visual bling since you have a case window. They have nicer bios and features that make them easier to work with like diagnostic leds. Mild upgrade: the 212 is fine, but if you care about being quiet even at full load a Mugen 5 or Noctua U14 are great. WattsvilleBlues posted:I'd be hoping for another 8 year lifespan (possible GPU upgrade aside) from the new build, so I take it the 3700x equivalent in 4th gen Ryzen would be the best bet? I know the 3600 is the current sweet spot but I'd be hoping for more longevity than 6C/12T, especially with the new games consoles likely having 8C/16T. 8 years is a long time. A 8c is more likely to last than a 6c simply because the reverse isn't possible. And what the game consoles have isn't really as big an impact as you'd think -- 8c for the last 7 years and we barely see games that need more than 4. If you hate rebuilding a PC I guess you can try to aim for 8 years. But in general buying cheaper components and upgrading more frequently is a better strategy, because the only thing that holds value for 8 years is money.
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Feb 20, 2020 16:39
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I'm passing down my old PC to my 8-yo son and need a cheap GPU that he can play Minecraft and Totally Accurate Battleground Simulator on. I snagged an old GTX 745 from work but is there anything else that's used in the ~$50 range that would be better that I can pick up? Or should I just spend the $100 and get an RX 550 or 560 instead?
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Feb 20, 2020 17:00
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FCKGW posted:I'm passing down my old PC to my 8-yo son and need a cheap GPU that he can play Minecraft and Totally Accurate Battleground Simulator on. I snagged an old GTX 745 from work but is there anything else that's used in the ~$50 range that would be better that I can pick up? Or should I just spend the $100 and get an RX 550 or 560 instead? You can get a used RX 570 for like $60, or new for $110.
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Feb 20, 2020 17:08
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big cummers ONLY posted:It has a compatibility warning, "Some AMD B450 chipset motherboards may need a BIOS update prior to using Matisse CPUs. Upgrading the BIOS may require a different CPU that is supported by older BIOS revisions." It's wrong, and I have no idea why PC Part Picker haven't fixed it. By definition, the MSI "MAX" B450 boards support Ryzen 3000. It's why they're such a safe choice, since they're guaranteed to work, unlike other, possibly old-stock B450 boards.
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Feb 20, 2020 17:11
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Got my new PC built, and it was a rough build. First had trouble activating windows, then I noticed a RAM stick wasn't being read so I had to remove the CPU cooler to even fix it. I hate doing things of that sort. I can't really play any games on it til the weekend as this week is a bit busy. Might not be the right thread for it actually, but is there any procedural stuff that is generally a good idea to do on a new machine to make sure everything is running as it should and there are no major issues? Like benchmark stuff
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Feb 20, 2020 18:42
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ItBreathes posted:You can get a used RX 570 for like $60, or new for $110. Hmm, most place I'm looking are asking $90 min for a used RX 570 but that's not too bad I suppose.
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Feb 20, 2020 18:50
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FCKGW posted:Hmm, most place I'm looking are asking $90 min for a used RX 570 but that's not too bad I suppose. Looks like you're right, they've gone up. Try SA-Mart or r/hardwareswap. There's no reason to pay that much for a used card when you've been able to get them new for ~$110 for a least a year now.
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Feb 20, 2020 18:54
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BabyRyoga posted:Got my new PC built, and it was a rough build. First had trouble activating windows, then I noticed a RAM stick wasn't being read so I had to remove the CPU cooler to even fix it. I hate doing things of that sort. I can't really play any games on it til the weekend as this week is a bit busy. On brand new machines I always run memtest for an overnight test at stock speed, and then a quick 1-pass test at XMP speed. That's overboard thorough, but it means I can ignore the ram as a potential problem forever (or until I try to OC it beyond XMP). RAM sticks that are defective out of the box in a tiny only-catchable-with-memtest way is a thing I've seen. After the OS is installed I just use Prime95 as a stress test to check cooling performance -- if the CPU is staying cool while boosting to full clock I know it's performing at 100%. I don't really bother with benchmarks like 3dmark, I looked at those before I bought things. But the 3dmark tests that put load on both CPU and GPU would be good to test case temperature if you want to play around with case fan speeds.
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Feb 20, 2020 19:05
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LimburgLimbo posted:Yeah I'm dumb; just as I came to edit my post realized remembered seeing that in the build guides I saw but was distracted when at 5am I finished assembling and cable managing then it seemed to not POST properly haha, then was just happy it was running and moved on to the hassle of getting windows installed correctly and updated and forgot about RAM settings. userbenchmark is not the most accurate. Try running AIDA64 instead. The theoretical max for RAM is effective MHZ * 8 * channels. So Dual channel DDR4 3200 is 3200*8*2 = 51200 MB/s. But this is where latencies come to play because it takes time to execute commands on the RAM (which is what the latencies are, the number of clock cycles it takes to execute commands on RAM) - it can't serve data unless commands are being executed. I'd say about 80-85% of theoretical max is what you should be seeing, and if tightened, 90% is a good target to shoot for. 80% * 51200 = 40900 MB/second. If AIDA64 shows read speeds in that area, you are good. People spend so much time tightening RAM on Ryzen because the chiplet design gives it pretty high latencies compared to Intel. Programs that have lots of cache misses (such as games) benefit the most from getting the latencies down as low as possible.
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Feb 20, 2020 20:28
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Alpha Mayo posted:userbenchmark is not the most accurate. Try running AIDA64 instead. The theoretical max for RAM is effective MHZ * 8 * channels. So Dual channel DDR4 3200 is 3200*8*2 = 51200 MB/s. But this is where latencies come to play because it takes time to execute commands on the RAM (which is what the latencies are, the number of clock cycles it takes to execute commands on RAM) - it can't serve data unless commands are being executed. I'd say about 80-85% of theoretical max is what you should be seeing, and if tightened, 90% is a good target to shoot for. 80% * 51200 = 40900 MB/second. If AIDA64 shows read speeds in that area, you are good. As long as I'm doing this right should be good then aye; looks like read speed about 89.41%
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Feb 20, 2020 21:30
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edit: removed
GruntyThrst fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Mar 3, 2020 |
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Feb 20, 2020 21:38
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Klyith posted:8 years is a long time. A 8c is more likely to last than a 6c simply because the reverse isn't possible. And what the game consoles have isn't really as big an impact as you'd think -- 8c for the last 7 years and we barely see games that need more than 4. Thanks for the input. Eight years is long, yeah. So I'd be better going for a 3600-type machine now and upgrading the CPU, motherboard and RAM in about 5 years for instance? When I built my Ivy Bridge setup I'm currently using, I considered upgrading the CPU, mobo and RAM when Kaby Lake was released, but the performance improvements and value proposition didn't justify the cost of all that. It seems only the past 2 years or so that Ivy Bridge 4C/4T CPUs have really been showing their age. Also I can't rule out upgrading my 60Hz monitor some time in the next few years to something that might need a beefier CPU to push higher refresh rates.
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Feb 20, 2020 22:22
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Thanks for the input. There's really no way to know how long any part will stay viable, it all depends on what hardware manufacturers put out and what developers do with the parts. The only foreseeable major changes is that the new consoles will be 8C/16T, but we don't know enough about clockspeeds or available cores or the thousand other things that impact system performance to do anything more than speculate about what this means for desktops. What it boils down to is that you can't say "I'm going to look to upgrade in X years" in any circumstance, parts will cease to be viable when they do. Buying higher end parts can make it more likely they'll stay viable longer, but how much longer, if at all, can't be with any degree of certainty. But CPU buying today is pretty simple. Get a 3600 unless you're strongly concerned the new consoles will make 6C/12T CPUs obsolete quickly, and if so get a 3700. And if you're sticking with a 60hz screen, get a 1600AF / 2600.
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Feb 20, 2020 22:48
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Linus does something neat. Tl;dw: Random LTT employees can't tell the difference between SATA, NVMe, and PCIe 4.0 SSDs. It's far from a proper sample size, but it does help show the fact that there isn't a meaningful difference in consumer / gamer workloads.
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Feb 20, 2020 23:58
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Klyith posted:Strongly recommended upgrade: step the mobo up to a tomahawk max like everyone else ITT. Or an aorus elite for the same $ if you want more visual bling since you have a case window. They have nicer bios and features that make them easier to work with like diagnostic leds. Will do, thanks!
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Feb 21, 2020 03:05
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LimburgLimbo posted:As long as I'm doing this right should be good then aye; looks like read speed about 89.41% Also did you put your memory sticks in the appropriate banks for dual channel operation? Per the Gigabyte manual for two identical sticks they should go into slots A2 and B2.
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Feb 21, 2020 04:37
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Fabulousity posted:Also did you put your memory sticks in the appropriate banks for dual channel operation? Per the Gigabyte manual for two identical sticks they should go into slots A2 and B2. Yep! That I did confirm; it's also marked on the MB itself which slots to use so easy. I figure I'll leave my RAM as-is for now and start tuning if I get significant slowdown anywhere which I think could be caused by it.
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Feb 21, 2020 09:31
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Well, my DirectPort cable arrived this morning and I still am not getting anything to display on my TV. What are my first steps to debug this? All the fans turn on, the lights on my case and video card turn on, but no video output. Any way to tell if the motherboard itself is actually working? e: Does my PSU need to be connected to the ATX 12V Power Connector? e2: It was this. Got confused by PSU instructions and thought this was only needed if heavily over locking the CPU. That was instructions for connecting a second CPU power source, the first was always needed Klungar fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Feb 21, 2020 |
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Feb 21, 2020 16:56
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looking for a sanity check here: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($504.99 @ Best Buy) CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X62 Rev 2 98.17 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($141.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 AORUS ELITE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($174.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($144.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 970 Evo 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($168.99 @ B&H) Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB FTW3 HYBRID GAMING Video Card ($743.98 @ Newegg) Case: NZXT H710i ATX Mid Tower Case ($169.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.99 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($99.99 @ B&H) Monitor: Acer Predator XB273K Pbmiphzx 27.0" 3840x2160 144 Hz Monitor ($1249.00 @ B&H) Total: $3518.90 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-02-21 11:05 EST-0500 USA, gonna get everything at Microcenter. Mostly looking for gaming/streaming combo machine. I haven't built a new PC in 8 years or so (maybe longer?) so I'm not even sure about how the cooling works with these water cooling bricks that appear to be self-contained, you just have to vent the fans and the case looks like it's designed to handle that if I'm looking at it correctly? Goal is to get a system that should last me another 5+ years so I'm going on the excessive route. I don't have a budget, I just don't want to make completely unreasonable choices for the price (like it looks to me that a 2080ti is not worth the $$ over a 2080 super?) It looks like if I get the 144hz 4k predator monitor, this setup should be good enough to pump out 4k@144?
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Feb 21, 2020 17:11
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Klungar posted:Well, my DirectPort cable arrived this morning and I still am not getting anything to display on my TV. What are my first steps to debug this? All the fans turn on, the lights on my case and video card turn on, but no video output. Any way to tell if the motherboard itself is actually working? Do you have a regular PC monitor that you can hook up rather than the TV? That's the first thing I'd do in case your TV is fucky and just doesn't like the signal it's getting. If the win10 install stick you made has an indicator light on it you could plug it in, and see if it starts blinking like it's reading. (Or find another usb stick with a LED and put memtest or something bootable on it.) That would indicate that the mobo is successfully getting all the way through the boot and loading the OS. Last, take everything out of the case and assemble on a tabletop with a minimum component setup so you can see clearly that everything is firmly seated and you haven't messed up something important. Telex posted:Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($99.99 @ B&H) I mean, the much better option is to buy a 7 Pro key from the SAmart goon or ebay, but if I start making suggestions for better priced alternatives on that setup I'll be here all day. Klyith fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Feb 21, 2020 |
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Feb 21, 2020 17:22
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Klyith posted:You're spending 3500 dollars, why are you saving $50 on home instead of pro? is there a functional difference? I'm not using bitlocker, I don't care about remote access, I'm not using it in a corporate environment and I don't see anything on the features that makes any sort of meaningful difference.
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Feb 21, 2020 18:00
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Im no expert, but if you can justify a $1300 monitor, youll need the $1300 graphics card to fully enjoy the monitor. Any card is going to struggle to render a modern game at 144Hz and 4k. You’re likely to be more satisfied long-term with a $500 monitor and $1300 graphics card. Also, if youre going all-in, why not get a LG GL950G-B?
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Feb 21, 2020 18:11
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Telex posted:is there a functional difference? I'm not using bitlocker, I don't care about remote access, I'm not using it in a corporate environment and I don't see anything on the features that makes any sort of meaningful difference. Group policies are real nice for removing / disabling some win10 bullshit.
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Feb 21, 2020 18:15
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Telex posted:is there a functional difference? I'm not using bitlocker, I don't care about remote access, I'm not using it in a corporate environment and I don't see anything on the features that makes any sort of meaningful difference. You can get a Windows 10 Pro (read, Windows 7) key from SA Mart for $5. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3898368
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Feb 21, 2020 18:16
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Klungar posted:You can get a Windows 10 Pro (read, Windows 7) key from SA Mart for $5. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3898368 That seller said they’ve had a couple of people who haven’t been able to activate those keys recently. I’m also not sure where they are getting their keys.
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Feb 21, 2020 18:29
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