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SeANMcBAY posted:What panel issues? The 5 series has some pretty significant clouding and off angle viewing issues. They feel more just like low quality panels (obviously) than defects. Perfect for a bedroom TV where it doesn't bother me but I wasn't a fan of it for a daily driver. Depends on usage though. Some people might be fine with that for the main tv depending on what it's for. edit: Although RTINGS says it doesn't have clouding issues. But man oh man my very much does. Panel lottery again. BonoMan fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Feb 20, 2020 |
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Feb 20, 2020 04:42
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seiferguy posted:For this one, it might be more the source: That's not it. My test for 4K HDR is The Grand Tour S1E1 on Amazon Prime at the opening montage about 7 minutes in. I looks glorious on my LG OLED and my TCL 6-Series. If I put on something like Mandalorian on my OLED, looks great with no complaints. If I put it on my TCL 6-Series... the show looks so incredibly dark. If I fast forward in the show, the thumbnail image is brighter and has more detail than the show itself. And it's the same way putting on something like Free Solo. It looks like the brightness takes a big hit. Now my tests for 4K HDR content have pretty much been Amazon Prime, Disney Plus, and the Super Bowl. Only Amazon Prime stuff looks good. Edit: I should also add that if I disable HDR through the secret menu (HOME BUTTON (5X) - RW - PAUSE - FF - PAUSE - RW), the picture looks bright and acceptable, but not in HDR anymore, for something like Mandalorian. For something like Grand Tour, the quality looks notably worse with the image being much more grainy as a result like I'm watching HD Astro7x fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Feb 20, 2020 |
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Feb 20, 2020 05:16
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What soundbards do people use with the LG C9? I'd like something that's a good bang for the buck but not the cheapest crap. I'd spring for the Samsung HW-Q90R/EN if it didn't cost as much as my TV did on sale  e: And do non-LG ones work great? Also, when the audio is anything but regular 2.0 it's awfully quiet so I tend to switch the audio streams a lot of Netflix and it's annoying. lordfrikk fucked around with this message at 11:56 on Feb 20, 2020 |
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Feb 20, 2020 11:54
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If you can find it still the Samsung HW MS650 is extremely good value if you don't want to spend stupid money. I have one and it's my main music source now. It's a couple of years old at this point but the newer models aren't necessarily better. Edit: $350 at Walmart, assuming you're american. Works fine with all makes of TV and has good enough inbuilt bass that it doesn't need a separate subwoofer, so cuts down on clutter too. Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 13:43 on Feb 20, 2020 |
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Feb 20, 2020 13:34
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Going to leap in as "cranky old dude" and just state that if you're spending $300 on audio you're really better off with powered bookshelf speakers. Yes they're bigger and need more cables but the sound, particularly voices, you get out of something with a 5" or bigger woofer is entirely superior to all soundbars. It's just physics 
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Feb 20, 2020 18:48
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lordfrikk posted:What soundbards do people use with the LG C9? I'd like something that's a good bang for the buck but not the cheapest crap. I have this Vizio unit, which has a subwoofer and surround speakers. A lot of r/hometheater types will tell you cheap 5.1 is a gimmick and you should spend the money on better speakers instead. I can definitely appreciate high quality audio. I own a pair of $1500 headphones and a dedicated headphone amp, so I’m more of an audiophile than most. Let me tell you that 5.1 sound is pretty loving cool, even with cheaper speakers. I’ll upgrade my speakers eventually but that Vizio kit works pretty great if you want to keep the cost down.
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Feb 20, 2020 20:36
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Arcsech posted:I have this Vizio unit, which has a subwoofer and surround speakers. A lot of r/hometheater types will tell you cheap 5.1 is a gimmick and you should spend the money on better speakers instead. I have that same Vizio unit and it really is amazing at that price, even with dialogue. I have another, cheaper, Vizio soundbar and it kinda was like "ok this is slightly better than the TV speakers but not blowing me away" but that Vizio you linked is pretty stellar. I bought it refurb'd for $130 and love it.
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Feb 20, 2020 21:11
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I hate but also love those Vizio 5.1 Soundbars. They sound great for the price, but cut in and out. It's like if there is no signal it does this thing where the audio fades up when the signal comes back. So even in that split second when changing channels or after a video game load screen, it cuts off the beginning of sounds. Like trying to play games on my NES classic is horrible because there are times in the games where there is no sound. It's not annoying enough where I bought two of them, but would think they are fine other than that
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Feb 20, 2020 21:36
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Astro7x posted:I hate but also love those Vizio 5.1 Soundbars. ... mine definitely does not do that
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Feb 20, 2020 21:50
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Astro7x posted:I hate but also love those Vizio 5.1 Soundbars. Mine definitely does not do that. I think yours (or something in your signal path) is broken or misconfigured. I do have one complaint I forgot to mention: I have an LG C9 and I had a heck of a time getting the audio via ARC from my XBone to not have an ungodly amount of delay. I think this might be specific to the C9 though, because it worked great out of the box on my old Panasonic plasma. I eventually fixed it by setting the audio format to “passthrough” in the settings on the C9.
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Feb 20, 2020 22:34
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qirex posted:Going to leap in as "cranky old dude" and just state that if you're spending $300 on audio you're really better off with powered bookshelf speakers. Yes they're bigger and need more cables but the sound, particularly voices, you get out of something with a 5" or bigger woofer is entirely superior to all soundbars. It's just physics Hello maybe you can help. I've been trying to research getting a powered 2.1 or 3.1 system to replace my sound bar and I can't seem to find any straight answers. Would want to be able to control the volume with my harmony remote.
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Feb 21, 2020 01:07
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Hello maybe you can help. I've been trying to research getting a powered 2.1 or 3.1 system to replace my sound bar and I can't seem to find any straight answers. Would want to be able to control the volume with my harmony remote.
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Feb 21, 2020 01:16
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qirex posted:Going to leap in as "cranky old dude" and just state that if you're spending $300 on audio you're really better off with powered bookshelf speakers. Yes they're bigger and need more cables but the sound, particularly voices, you get out of something with a 5" or bigger woofer is entirely superior to all soundbars. It's just physics Do you have any specific recs for these?
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Feb 21, 2020 02:11
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BonoMan posted:I have that same Vizio unit and it really is amazing at that price, even with dialogue. I'm going to jump on the bandwagon, I've had one for a few months now and have absolutely no issues with the sound quality. I know it isn't exceptional but it really sounds fine. Google Cast functionality is great to since we already use Google Cast for whole house audio. Astro7x posted:I hate but also love those Vizio 5.1 Soundbars. Um, I don't have this problem either.
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Feb 21, 2020 03:00
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I have a cheap Vizio “5.1” sound bar. Remote sub with two rear speakers. The rear speakers are _mono_. There isn’t left rear and right rear. Just rear. I complained to their customer service. They claimed since it was five speakers and a sub, it was 5.1, even though they didn’t process all 5 channels...
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Feb 21, 2020 03:29
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knox_harrington posted:Do you have any specific recs for these? Vanatoo Transparent Zero and Transparent One $319-600 Aperion Allaire $399 [they have sub bundles too] Audioengine A5 Wireless, HD6 $499-699 [there's a slightly cheaper model without bluetooth] Fluance Ai40, Ai60 $199-299 Edifier, too many to list $199-a lot KEF EGG on AC4L $299 Kanto YU4, YU6 $329-399 [come in lots of colors, go on sale in Canada a lot] Swans used to be an old standby but they seem to be reaching upmarket. Their cheap model is $500 now. There's probably more, this is just what I've seen floating around. Sadly Z Reviews on Youtube is one of the best resources of info about a lot of these, he will gladly talk about a pair of $300 speakers for like 40 minutes but the good news is he includes weird usability quirks that a lot of other reviewers gloss over. I'd say if you're going to spend more than $500-600 you should probably look at receivers and passive speakers. The big downside to taking this route is it's hard to expand later if you want surround or a subwoofer. There's options but they're all janky, even for the ones that do include a sub out. Low bass is annoyingly tricky.
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Feb 21, 2020 03:30
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Ultimate Mango posted:I have a cheap Vizio “5.1” sound bar. Remote sub with two rear speakers. What model? That doesn't sound right at all.
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Feb 21, 2020 03:57
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I have the audio engine a5s and the sub. They are nice but I wouldn’t use them instead of a 5.1 system or “good” sound bar for the same price for pairing with a TV.
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Feb 21, 2020 04:01
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Ultimate Mango posted:I have a cheap Vizio “5.1” sound bar. Remote sub with two rear speakers. Um, no, at least the version posted here that I have and paid $130-ish for refurbished definitely has separate rear channels.
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Feb 21, 2020 04:09
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BonoMan posted:What model? That doesn't sound right at all. I think it’s this one. I was pissed when I saw that the rear did not have left or right sides, and when I called to talk to their customer support, they were all kinds of rude. I confirmed this by playing test sounds through a home theater configuration disc. Rears are not separated. But it was cheap and I wasn’t pissed enough to return it to Costco. It isn’t my main TV, just one used mostly for Switch, previous gen game systems, and movies for the kids in a little nook upstairs. But yeah don’t be suckered into not actually 5.1 sound bars.
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Feb 21, 2020 04:10
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My Vizio 5.1.2 bar does a weird thing where the audio just disappears for a second when i raise or lower the volume. It's probably TV related. Just havent had time to dig into it.
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Feb 21, 2020 05:01
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Ultimate Mango posted:I think it’s this one. That doesn't seem right and reviews of that unit confirm its real 5.1. Are you sure you don't have the wrong mode selected? There's a stereo x 2 mode that just duplicates the front channels to the back. I can't imagine they made a 5.1 unit that didn't actually have separate rear channels. Edit: this article sort of mentions something similar. But it's about how the 5.1 signal isn't getting properly passed through the TV (which isn't uncommon). So the signal is dumbed down to stereo. I'd bet dollars to nuts that's what's happening to you. But that's a TV issue and not a sound bar issue. So I'd check how it's connected and try to skip the pass through. https://www.cnet.com/reviews/vizio-s4251w-b4-review/ quote:So the S4251w-B4 can create the most immersive, convincing home theater sound we've heard from a budget sound bar -- the only problem is, it's harder than you'd think to get the full effect. BonoMan fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Feb 21, 2020 |
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Feb 21, 2020 05:04
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BonoMan posted:That doesn't seem right and reviews of that unit confirm its real 5.1. I have confirmed good signals going into the unit. The rears aren’t even labeled left and right and their support confirmed that both rears should output the same thing, that they are not stereo. I can even get the sound bar to show it’s doing Dolby digital or whatever, but the rears are still mono.
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Feb 21, 2020 05:37
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Isn’t that how Pro Logic worked, with a single rear channel matrixed into a stereo signal rather than discrete channels.
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Feb 21, 2020 06:05
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Ultimate Mango posted:I have confirmed good signals going into the unit. The rears aren’t even labeled left and right and their support confirmed that both rears should output the same thing, that they are not stereo. The speakers aren't labeled left and right on any of the units like that (mine included ) because the idea is you could swap if needed. The support likely just doesn't know what they're talking about. That's not uncommon. That unit does true 5.1. And the whole point of what I posted is that it doesn't matter if you're feeding it a good signal or you have the proper settings on the sound bar. It's easy to get the TV to block it from getting parsed right. I'm sorry you're having a hard time with it. But you didn't get tricked. It offers 5.1 channels. You just have something screwing it up in the chain.
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Feb 21, 2020 13:24
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I have a small LCD tv that I'm using for vidya games and I'm trying to find a stand for it that will let me rotate it 90 degrees for shmups. The stand I have no has a rotation feature but since it's a 32" tv on a stand built for a tv that size, I can't rotate the tv without smacking the stand itself. I think I just need the exact same thing I have now but for a bigger television but i can't find any other stands that allow for rotation in a bigger size. Any ideas?
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Feb 21, 2020 18:06
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Lie on your side while playing them
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Feb 21, 2020 18:18
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Ultimate Mango posted:The rears aren’t even labeled left and right Yeah, just occurred to me why you thought this, they are marked but very poorly, they are however color coded, both the jacks on the sub and the rear speaker and the cables, white to white, blue to blue.
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Feb 21, 2020 20:08
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Three Olives posted:Yeah, just occurred to me why you thought this, they are marked but very poorly, they are however color coded, both the jacks on the sub and the rear speaker and the cables, white to white, blue to blue. It shouldn't matter regardless. I mean I guess it can help for making sure it's on the right side (but you can do that by sight unless you're running cables through the wall and it's easy to forget). The speakers are identical tech wise and should be swappable.
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Feb 21, 2020 20:58
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poo poo POST MALONE posted:I have a small LCD tv that I'm using for vidya games and I'm trying to find a stand for it that will let me rotate it 90 degrees for shmups. Assuming it has a vesa mount, would something like this work?
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Feb 22, 2020 13:31
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Assuming it has a vesa mount, would something like this work? I saw that one but it doesn't rotate. It use swivels.
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Feb 22, 2020 15:07
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I'm looking for a television recommendation. I'd like to spend less than $1,500 dollars, and I have the following needs: 70 inches (75 inches won't fit where I need it to go) 4k, HDR (Dolby Vision compatible) A fairly decent stand When I go to Best Buy or wherever and I look at TVs, the differences in HDR quality between panels is huge, and I don't really understand why. There seems to be OLED and QLED technology, which I think is basically the same, and then there are the crazy high-end $4000 TVs. I've had a hard time telling the difference between marketing-speak and actual technology and I can't figure out which series I'd have to buy in order to get that stunning bright/dark contrast effect with HDR. Is all of this possible within my budget? I also have a question. I've got a receiver, a Denon AVR-E400, and it does HDMI pass-through. Will it work for 4K HDR pass-through or do I need to get a new receiver? Thanks!
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Feb 22, 2020 17:13
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If you want the best picture quality for around the price you're asking then look for the 65 inch LG OLED B9 or C9. OLED and QLED are decidedly not the same technology, QLED is Samsung's marketing gimmick named to make people think they're equivalent. They're just high end LED tvs. This thread seems to hate Samsung for that and other reasons I don't fully understand, but they still make very good TVs, but there might be better value propositions depending on your specific usage needs. You're best off doing some research on rtings.com and educating yourself a bit more before taking the plunge. Any TV you buy at $1500 is gonna have excellent HDR, but generally regular LEDs can get brighter, whereas OLEDs have perfect blacks, so depending on where you'll be putting the TV one or the other might be more appropriate. (Brighter room; LED, darker room, OLED) Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Feb 22, 2020 |
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Feb 22, 2020 17:28
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poo poo POST MALONE posted:I saw that one but it doesn't rotate. It use swivels. Oh duh, my bad. Not sure what your setup looks like, but what about a monitor arm like this?
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Feb 22, 2020 17:29
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BonoMan posted:The 5 series has some pretty significant clouding and off angle viewing issues. They feel more just like low quality panels (obviously) than defects. Perfect for a bedroom TV where it doesn't bother me but I wasn't a fan of it for a daily driver. Depends on usage though. Some people might be fine with that for the main tv depending on what it's for. Maybe I'll stick with my S405 and wait for the 2020 5 series. Do we have any indication when that's coming? When does TCL usually release new models?
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Feb 23, 2020 00:35
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SeANMcBAY posted:Maybe I'll stick with my S405 and wait for the 2020 5 series. Do we have any indication when that's coming? When does TCL usually release new models? Apparently rtings.com says it doesn't have cloudiy so it's likely just my panel. It was black Friday so they were all packed in like sardines. Who knows what happened to it. Excellent TV for the price though. As for the 2020 panels. The 2019 didn't come until the end of the year-ish so I'd expect the same. As well as a 75" version of the 6 Series.
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Feb 23, 2020 02:08
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I wish they'd make a 43 inch version of the 6 series. I'd buy it then.
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Feb 23, 2020 03:31
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Sneeze Party posted:There seems to be OLED and QLED technology, which I think is basically the same Sneeze Party posted:I've had a hard time telling the difference between marketing-speak and actual technology Yeah, these go together, but to be fair, QLED exists to confuse customers. QLED = a standard LCD with quantum dots for wider color gamut. You want two things for good HDR: High peak brightness and great contrast ratio. OLEDs clearly win contrast ratio but don't get to the peak brightness of some of the premium LCDs. The LCDs with the best contrast ratio will have local dimming to individually turn off backlight zones, along with a LOT of backlight zones. If you're at a Best Buy you may be seeing high end LCDs like the Samsung Q90R with ~480 or a Sony Z9G with 700ish. More budget TVs might have 50-120 zones. They will still not approach the contrast of an OLED set. It's a bit of a tradeoff you have to make. You also have a lot less options at 70 than at 65/75/77, unfortunately. In fact I can't think of a single premium set at 70" :/ You may be better off with 65. Agree with the recommendation to review rtings reviews. Here are a few to compare: Sony X950G or H, LG OLED65C9 or CX, Samsung Q80R/Q90R, Vizio PX65-G1. More budget models: TCL 6 series, Hisense H9F. Sneeze Party posted:I also have a question. I've got a receiver, a Denon AVR-E400, and it does HDMI pass-through. Will it work for 4K HDR pass-through or do I need to get a new receiver? I'm afraid not -- I don't think that receiver has HDCP 2.2, the key feature, so can't pass through 4k copy protected stuff. KS fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Feb 23, 2020 |
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Feb 23, 2020 04:06
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KS posted:Yeah, these go together, but to be fair, QLED exists to confuse customers. QLED = a standard LCD with quantum dots for wider color gamut.
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Feb 23, 2020 23:19
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I have a bad feeling my 2015 Samsung tv is failing on me. But any suggestions would be appreciated. I recently noticed that the colors on my tv seem off. Mostly noticeable in people’s faces. They seemed more red and washed out. I initially chalked it up to watching tv during the daytime, as the room this tv is in had a couple of windows. But the problem persisted at night when we don’t have a lot of lights in the room. I checked the settings, and they were the same as the RTings settings from when I initially set up the tv, so nothing changed there. I got the image to look a little better be sliding the red/green slider towards green, and toning down the brightness a bit. But the colors still look a little off, but I am not sure what is off about them. I also noticed that when playing DQ11 (Switch version) that now dark spaces look especially dark, and bright spaces are especially bright. I turned up the brightness in the game a bit to compensate for the tv brightness being turned down, but it seems like I have to constantly adjust the game brightness when I didn’t have to before. Is there a decent tool/app I can use to manually adjust the tv colors and try to bring them back to normal? Or is some controller failing, and it’s just going to get continually worse. I would like to avoid having to replace this tv, as I spent a pretty good amount of money on it at the time, but it is our primary tv.
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Feb 24, 2020 19:02
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