TTerrible posted:

I've honestly never even seen the two primers you mention in a store. Where are you seeing it?

Filthy Hans posted:

I'm working on my first Chaos Marine and I'm not content with what I have so far. I wanted to go for a really bright blue so I put a basecoat of VGC Magic Blue, shaded with Agrax Earthshade for some definition, then most of the surface is repainted with the Magic Blue and then highlighted with VGC Electric Blue. The result is a good looking model imo but I think I need to go brighter because it looks too much like the Thousand Sons motif with bronze trim and when I've tried steel trim it looks too much like the Alpha Legion. I've tinted the bronze a couple times with AP Red Tone to try to make the trim look more coppery than bronze and it helps a bit but it still looks too much like Thousand Sons. I want my bad boys to be unique, so I think maybe I should push the blue into more of an icy paler blue but I'm not sure what color would be best to buy.

Paragon8 posted:

The brands are a lot more well known in the scale modelling side of things. Sorry I assumed you knew about them and had info they changed recipes or something.

sources that its relabelled Stynylrez

https://www.scalemodellingnow.com/tbpainting-ultimate-primer

http://airbrushandanalog.blogspot.com/2017/05/one-shot-primer-from-ammo-by-mig-jimenez.html

https://michtoy-from-the-front.blogspot.com/2018/07/mtsc-product-spotlight-badger-stynylrez.html

links to buy

https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/product/60ml-grey-one-shot-primer-ammo-mig-jimenez-a-mig-2024
- they also carry straight Stynylrez too it seems!

https://www.umpretail.com/products/ultimate-primer-120ml-grey

https://www.emodels.co.uk/ultimate-120ml-white-primer-badger-stynylrez-029.html

TTerrible posted:

That is weird as hell. I've heard of MIG certainly but never any connection to Stynlrez. Barwells the Badger distributor in the UK is at all the major wargaming/scale shows with big displays of Stynlrez. TIL.

jesus WEP posted:

Paragon8 posted:

I think there was a time when importing was more difficult which is where UMP started to carry it. the official badger product seems more accessible from the quick google. UMP feels like more of a garage brand but has a decent presence at shows, I got my last bottle of primer at Telford.

Its good stuff! I still use Mr Surfacer for scale modelling but minis I use the ultimate primer after struggling enormously with vallejo.

jesus WEP posted:

i would really like it if vallejo did collections of primers the way they do for inks or metallics

TTerrible posted:

The white Badger is (of course) more problematic for me but the black is so, so lovely.

EDIT: They did completely change the terracotta red brown primer at one point. I started using it then couldn't get a match to continue.

Electric Hobo posted:

I'm still painting Malifaux stuff, and still doing an "only OSL" theme. It's pretty fun, and good practice.

jesus WEP posted:

i think any blue that leans to the aqua/green side will always evoke Sons, especially with a metallic trim

im pooping! posted:

color isnt everything. give the dude an icon on his pauldron. this is a fantasy setting and color isnt anything. i've been painting space wolves and ive seen color schemes go from gray to dark blue to brown. all that makes it a space wolf is A) the wolf on its pauldron, b) ornamentation and c) imagination. going by color alone makes it so people might thing 'its blue, maybe its an ultramarine'. even minor scrutiny will make them change their mind. the pauldron will confirm it. dont fall into the trap of needing more colors.

idk if you read night lords by ADB but its pretty clear that the night lords at least are unable to make their armor from scratch and cannibalize it from other space marines they kill, then spray paint it dark blue or whatever, so lore wise chaos marines dont even need to be consistent, especially if you just make up a warband

im pooping! posted:

color isnt everything. give the dude an icon on his pauldron. this is a fantasy setting and color isnt anything. i've been painting space wolves and ive seen color schemes go from gray to dark blue to brown. all that makes it a space wolf is A) the wolf on its pauldron, b) ornamentation and c) imagination. going by color alone makes it so people might thing 'its blue, maybe its an ultramarine'. even minor scrutiny will make them change their mind. the pauldron will confirm it. dont fall into the trap of needing more colors.

JBP posted:

Calling it a day on this. I have a second one to do so I'll return to some weathering around the endrin supports and think about the base more later but I'm really pleased with my first KO model

Winklebottom posted:

Big Sunless Sea/Skies vibes, which is great. How'd you do the oxidized metal?

JBP posted:

All the corrosion is some leadbelcher then typhus corrosion and then nuln oil or agrax earthshade and fire dragon bright. It's surprisingly easy to do and really forgiving because you can just add more schmutz.

Winklebottom posted:

Neat, gotta pick up some typhus corrosion to play around with at some point. I presume the verdigris is Nihilakh Oxide?

JBP posted:

If you mean the white looking parts that's where I knocked the model over into a blob of paint then ran it under water to get it off while in tears.

Winklebottom posted:

Hah, nah. I mean't the teal-ish parts, like these:

JBP posted:

Lol the second one is some of the white paint that needs fixing. The effect comes from the pre-shade though. I airbrushed in black shading over a grey primer then I airbrushed over the whole model with coelia greenshade. Worked it out by experimenting on an old tank for an hour just trying different paints and found that the shade have everything the exact kind of tone I wanted.

tangy yet delightful posted:

What is a good plain/bright yellow paint to buy? Currently running GW paints and have some reds and an orange but no yellow except Nazdreg Yellow which is too brown. I'm not opposed to buying non-GW paint. I want the yellow to spice up this fire and in general be a useful yellow base to use straight or to mix with my other colors.

Electric Hobo posted:

I like Vallejo Flat Yellow as my generic yellow. Their Air range has Moon Yellow, which is paler, and Sun Yellow, which is more orange.

Max Wilco posted:

Does anybody know the differences between the various Citadel Metallic Paints? I know this must sound like a dumb question, but I have some trouble in distinguishing them.

With Silver there's Leadbelcher (the standard 'gunmetal' base color), but now there's Grey Knights Steel, Iron Warriors, and Iron Hands Steel. Grey Knights Steel I know has the blue tint, but I don't know what shades Iron Warriors and Iron Hands Steel have for sure (Iron Hands looks kind of brown, Iron Warriors looks like black metal). With the Layer Paints, there's Stormhost Silver, Runefang Steel, and Ironbreaker (which in that order, seem to go from lightest to darkest)

With Gold there's Retributor Armor and Balthasar Gold, but I recall seeing Balthasar Gold as being intended to obtain more of a bronze color from the Citadel Paint App. Out of the layer paints, Gehenna Gold (from the swatches on GW's site) seems to have warm, reddish tone to it, while Auric Armor is a bright yellow, and Liberator Gold is more de-saturated.

Thanqol posted:

Retributor is bright yellow gold, Balthazar gold is a bronze. Balthazar gold is my favourite colour ever and if they made it in a spray I'd do everything in it. It's a warm bronze colour that walks easily into any of the Citadel copper/bronze/brass paints and has great coverage and control (Sycorax bronze is my favourite Balthazar Gold highlight/layer).

Verisimilidude posted:

Painted up some nolzurs guards and some quick and dirty elementals for a campaign I’m running

Max Wilco posted:

Does anybody know the differences between the various Citadel Metallic Paints? I know this must sound like a dumb question, but I have some trouble in distinguishing them.

With Silver there's Leadbelcher (the standard 'gunmetal' base color), but now there's Grey Knights Steel, Iron Warriors, and Iron Hands Steel. Grey Knights Steel I know has the blue tint, but I don't know what shades Iron Warriors and Iron Hands Steel have for sure (Iron Hands looks kind of brown, Iron Warriors looks like black metal). With the Layer Paints, there's Stormhost Silver, Runefang Steel, and Ironbreaker (which in that order, seem to go from lightest to darkest)

With Gold there's Retributor Armor and Balthasar Gold, but I recall seeing Balthasar Gold as being intended to obtain more of a bronze color from the Citadel Paint App. Out of the layer paints, Gehenna Gold (from the swatches on GW's site) seems to have warm, reddish tone to it, while Auric Armor is a bright yellow, and Liberator Gold is more de-saturated.

BARONS CYBER SKULL posted:

My hand has never shaken more than trying to do the pupils on these eyes

Thanqol posted:

Iron Hands is bright and shiney, like Ironbreaker as a basecoat. Iron warriors is darker, like Leadbelcher with a nuln oil wash. Runefang and Ironbreaker are brighter colours for highlighting and raising up Leadbelcher but honestly you can skip both of them now that Iron Hands is a thing. Leadbelcher, Iron Warriors and Iron Hands are all great paints. Get Stormhost Silver for edge highlight.

Retributor is bright yellow gold, Balthazar gold is a bronze. Balthazar gold is my favourite colour ever and if they made it in a spray I'd do everything in it. It's a warm bronze colour that walks easily into any of the Citadel copper/bronze/brass paints and has great coverage and control (Sycorax bronze is my favourite Balthazar Gold highlight/layer). Auric armour is a layer that goes onto Retributor to make it even brighter - and that is all it does. It's got a really weird watery consistency that makes it horrible in literally every other situation. Liberator is mostly for highlights but can be used to make the gold colder. These guys are done with Auric layers and Liberator highlights:



(E: The silver on these guys is leadbelcher+nuln oil gloss wash highlighted stormhost)

These guys are just Retributor:



NOTE: These are retributor > (Optional auric layer) > wash Riekland Fleshshade (optional gloss version) > Wash watered down Rhinox hide (this is the secret sauce) > Highlight Liberator > Highlight stormhost

Full album here: https://imgur.com/a/zVvpN76

Radio Free Kobold posted:

I slapped some of my metallic paints on a base for you. Going clockwise, starting at 9 o'clock, we have:
Balthazar Gold in the top left with a bit of Fulgrumite Copper splashed on top
a bit of red left over from the previous use with a zigzag of Stormhost Silver still visible.
Grey Knights Steel in the top right, showing off that blue tinge.
Iron Hands Steel in the bottom right, with a splash of Stormhost Silver shared between it and the Leadbelcher, bottom middle.
Retri Armor, bottom left, with a swath of Auric Armor Gold in the middle of it.

I'm getting very good results out of using Retri Armor for my metallic yellow (it's such a rich, warm gold) and Iron Hands Steel for my silver/metal base, though you can see it looks fairly similar to Leadbelcher under this bright light.


Here's the same thing under somewhat dimmer light. The Auric Armor stands out a lot more, and you can see the difference between the Leadbelcher and the Iron Hands steel much more clearly.

Max Wilco posted:

I thought to put them on custom bases, so I didn't glue them down on the included bases. As a result, I've just held the gun barrel, antenna, or some other part of the mini while I paint the other parts, and you can see that I've smeared some of the metallic dust (mica, I guess?) onto a couple of places.

Harvey Mantaco posted:

The fantastic four won't know what hit 'em

SiKboy posted:

If I'm doing a squad sized group of miniatures that I am gong to put on fancy bases I want to paint separately, I normally glue them to a plain base for painting. I just use less glue than I'm going to use for their permanent base. Makes it easier to paint without holding the miniature itself and accidentally smearing paint/getting a thumbprint in the basecoat/dropping it/breaking a fragile bit. When you are done its easy enough to carefully slide a thin sharp knife blade between the feet and base to separate them from the temporary base for proper basing. Smart way to do it is to put the base at 90 degrees to your cutting mat so you are cutting down the way. Doesnt have to be a base of course, I glued the Desolation Engine I posted before to an ice lolly stick which was glued to a regular sized base so I could use my regular sized painting handle. This has the added bonus of making it look like hes surfing while you paint.

Theres other things you can do (drill and pin the feet, then stick the pins in a cork or something for example) but "just lightly glue them all to plain bases" is way quicker and easier. I'd do something like that for important figures (command models, characters, whatever), but apart from anything else I only have like 2 corks. A lot of wine seems to be screw top these days.

Max Wilco posted:

My thought was to put poster tack on a cork or some other type of handle-hold. Some of the Skitarii have a 'running' pose, so drilling into the feet seems kind of iffy.