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Upthread there was some talk about the 2.0t Accord and lightly used they're smack right in my price range. How's the 2.0 hold up compared to the 1.5? The 1.5 in the Civic Sport was nice enough, but I'd rather have more gofast and a bigger car for future family building, all things being equal.
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Feb 25, 2020 05:05
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Internet Explorer posted:It was a buddy's car that had quite a few miles on it. Is your buddy skinny? Because I'm decidedly not and the driver's side is much... roomier than when I bought it.
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Feb 25, 2020 05:59
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KillHour posted:Is your buddy skinny? Because I'm decidedly not and the driver's side is much... roomier than when I bought it. He is, but I'm not exactly big. More skinny fat. Glad to hear that they eventually give a little. It was bad enough to where if I had test drove one I wouldn't have bought it on that alone. Internet Explorer fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Feb 25, 2020 |
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Feb 25, 2020 07:11
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Throatwarbler posted:Isn’t the accord sport with the turbo and the manual supposed to be a pretty good substitute for sporty civics but without the idiot tax Yeah, that’s why I bought a new 2017 Accord coupe w/V6 & stick, it’s only a tick slower that the Type R, and is a nice-looking car to boot. Sure, it’s not something you’re going to flog on a track day- the brakes are woefully undersized for that, but it works great as a sleeper that doesn’t attract cops or thieves.
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Feb 25, 2020 15:58
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accord and doesn't attract thieves do not belong in the same sentence
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Feb 25, 2020 16:10
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If I am an idiot, please let me know gently, because I won't argue with you about it. I am willing to believe it. I'm thinking about buying a 2019 Kia Forte that was a rental. It has just under 10k miles. It's being advertised (by a dealer) for $14,950. My research says that's a good price for this make/model/year/mileage. I will get it inspected first by a mechanic. Is this a bad idea? I think Kias are probably fine now. I'm not that concerned about that. Korea's gotten a lot richer in recent decades, so I think it makes sense to trust the reports that the build quality of their major carmakers has gotten a lot better. This model has an above average reliability ranking from JD Power and the 2018 model is rated as one of the best compacts for that year by US News. Please let me know if either of these sources are junk. I assume they're decent but not the be-all-end-all. I'm less sure about buying a rental. It seems a little odd that the rental company sold it so quickly, with less than 10k miles. The vehicle history report also mentions there was a loan/lien on the car, but I don't know if that's actually a red flag. Is it? What should I say to the dealer when I ask about it?
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Feb 25, 2020 22:29
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Please refer to the title of this thread.
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Feb 25, 2020 22:33
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Word.
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Feb 25, 2020 22:41
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So that one is out. So now I'm looking for non-rentals, and I'm still seeing a lot that mention a loan/lien. How much of a red flag is that? Several of these were later sold at auction. I'm guessing what's happening is, these are cars that were repossessed and then sold at auction, which sounds like it might be dicey. Maybe cars that get sold at auction are less likely to have received regular maintenance, and I should look for ones that were trade-ins?
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Feb 25, 2020 22:52
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Loan/lien: when was the last time you or anyone you knew went and bought a new car with cash? I would easily wager that the vast majority of cars on the market were first purchased on a loan. It's not a problem or even remotely an indication of a problem unless said loan has not already been satisfied (which should be a given unless you're buying from a private seller). Auction: Also not really much of a red flag. Dealers take cars on trade all the time that they don't bother trying to resell on their own, and when that happens they sell it at auction. The most it means is that you know with absolute certainty that the salesman is 100% full of poo poo on any comments about who the original owner was or what they did with it, but then again any statements like that are pretty much lies anyway.
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Feb 25, 2020 23:02
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Only time I'd worry about an auction is if you have record of an accident happening shortly before it was sold.
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Feb 25, 2020 23:09
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Great! Thanks for the quick replies.
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Feb 25, 2020 23:14
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I would go straight for the auction if you have the funds. You'll have to pay a fee, or hire a dealer (flat rate) to make that purchase, but you'll save the most money that way. Unless you are a master negotiator and can convince a private owner to sell a car for trade in value. Which is very unlikely.
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Feb 25, 2020 23:50
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Found a Suburban that checks all of our boxes, but it's a 2017 with 60k+ miles on it for just under $35k. The dealer states that it's a "no-haggle" price and they don't negotiate when I mentioned I thought the price was high for the mileage. Is this code for "yeah it's overpriced but we won't budge so don't bother" or is no-haggle pricing actually cool and good an saving me the time of bullshit negotiation?
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Feb 26, 2020 00:09
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It's code for "we think we can find someone willing to pay this and that's what we're holding out for." Alternatively, it's code for "we don't haggle over the phone." Pick your poison.
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Feb 26, 2020 01:34
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Nitrox posted:I would go straight for the auction if you have the funds. You'll have to pay a fee, or hire a dealer (flat rate) to make that purchase, but you'll save the most money that way. Unless you are a master negotiator and can convince a private owner to sell a car for trade in value. Which is very unlikely. jesus, don't tell a guy who can't read the thread title and doesn't know what a lien is to loving go to manheim. just absolute poo poo advice.
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Feb 26, 2020 02:49
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:jesus, don't tell a guy who can't read the thread title and doesn't know what a lien is to loving go to manheim. just absolute poo poo advice.
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Feb 26, 2020 04:08
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Nitrox posted:You're right, of course. I'm changing my advice to hire a professional buyer, they usually take around $500, but are skilled negotiators and know where and how to look. Including auctions. You do need to know exactly what you want and how much you're willing to spend. If it was really this easy, why wouldn't everyone in the market for a used car hire a buyer instead of going to a dealership?
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Feb 26, 2020 04:13
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Inner Light posted:If it was really this easy, why wouldn't everyone in the market for a used car hire a buyer instead of going to a dealership?
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Feb 26, 2020 04:23
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:accord and doesn't attract thieves do not belong in the same sentence In the 1996 universe maybe, but I don’t think modern Accords are easily or commonly stolen. If they are, please don’t inform my insurance company.
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Feb 26, 2020 04:40
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:jesus, don't tell a guy who can't read the thread title and doesn't know what a lien is to loving go to manheim. just absolute poo poo advice. WHAT PART OF "BE GENTLE ABOUT CALLING ME AN IDIOT" DID YOU NOT UNDERSTAND
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Feb 26, 2020 05:05
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Nitrox posted:Let's do a roll call and see how many people even aware of something like that being a thing. My credit union has a car buying service and it’s amazing. I just emailed some nice lady who found what I wanted, told me how much it cost and when it would show up at my door
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Feb 26, 2020 05:38
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Nitrox posted:You're right, of course. I'm changing my advice to hire a professional buyer, they usually take around $500, but are skilled negotiators and know where and how to look. Including auctions. You do need to know exactly what you want and how much you're willing to spend. I live close to manheim. tell me more?
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Feb 26, 2020 10:03
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JnnyThndrs posted:In the 1996 universe maybe, but I don’t think modern Accords are easily or commonly stolen. If they are, please don’t inform my insurance company. Modern Hondas are still commonly stolen. I think Civics are #1 for modern cars.
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Feb 26, 2020 13:48
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Residency Evil posted:I live close to manheim. tell me more? everyone lives close to manheim, they're the biggest auto auction house in the country and auto auction is still largely a regionalized game so they got locations everywhere. if i recall correctly you will need a dealer license to show and bid (may not be true anymore but i doubt it), and you'll need to register with manheim in advance. if you want to do it, i highly recommend you find a friend who is a cagey veteran of this stuff. spectate only for at least your first auction so you understand how it works. there are huge quantities of cars getting auctioned on any given day. condition information is spotty. you want to go early and lay eyes on whatever you have remote interest in. if you aren't fairly mechanically inclined and can't look a car over and get a decent understanding of its condition, and what the value and problem spots are for that model, you are going to be out of your depth. you are a fancy car guy iirc and mostly what gets dumped at manheim is cheaper mass market stuff that is older or scruffy. it's not universal but if say, a BMW dealer takes a lease turn in, they're going to probably try to CPO it in store. if joe mc idiot walks in off the street and trades his 2013 Sentra for a new base model 3 series, they're gonna dump the Sentra to the auctions. Nitrox posted:You're right, of course. I'm changing my advice to hire a professional buyer, they usually take around $500, but are skilled negotiators and know where and how to look. Including auctions. You do need to know exactly what you want and how much you're willing to spend. This is good advice. You also have to be in the market for something pretty common unless you want to pay substantially more. mariooncrack posted:Modern Hondas are still commonly stolen. I think Civics are #1 for modern cars. It is mostly older stuff because that's where the used parts market is. Cars mostly get stolen to get chopped. In a decade, current Toyotas, Hondas, and full-size pickups will move up the list. You have to have a big parts market to make it worthwhile, so nobody's stealing Mazda Millenias to chop. Yoshi Wins posted:WHAT PART OF "BE GENTLE ABOUT CALLING ME AN IDIOT" DID YOU NOT UNDERSTAND man you been here for seven years don't you know to read the thread title and the first post
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Feb 26, 2020 14:22
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Ok so no rentals or salvage titles, but how do we feel about reconstructed flood damage?? Test drove a '17 Focus ST last night. Impressively peppy little car. But then there's that dash. That dash that was featured in 2001. The dash that was modeled on the great wall of china, except in black plastic. A dash that makes you feel all the bad feelings, even ones you thought that were mutually exclusive.
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Feb 26, 2020 16:39
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Ok so no rentals or salvage titles, but how do we feel about reconstructed flood damage?? Holy poo poo no.
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Feb 26, 2020 16:45
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Ok so no rentals or salvage titles, but how do we feel about reconstructed flood damage?? Reconstructed is just another term for salvage
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Feb 26, 2020 16:51
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Ok so no rentals or salvage titles, but how do we feel about reconstructed flood damage?? Absolutely not. Reconstructed damage of any kind is a salvage title, and flood damage is one of the worst. Flooding is absolute hell on electrical systems, and any car made in the last few decades is completely dependent on electronic control. The only way it'd be worth it to buy a flood damaged car is if it's a super-high-value collector piece, where you'd come out ahead after the parts and labor cost of tearing out and replacing every single sensor, actuator, computer, lighting component, and wiring harness in the vehicle. If you don't go to that level, the car will always have electrical gremlins and reliability issues.
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Feb 26, 2020 16:51
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And by collector car, we mean something like an F40 or McLaren F1, where rebuilding a burned-out husk is still worth it.
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Feb 26, 2020 17:00
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Shame, I could have saved two grand.
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Feb 26, 2020 17:02
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Shame, I could have saved two grand. "saved"
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Feb 26, 2020 17:23
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When water gets in the wiring, it often won't kill the circuit immediately, but it'll start corroding and 1,2,3 years down the road the car could have unbelievable electrical gremlins.
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Feb 26, 2020 17:27
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Hail damaged repaired salvage title cars are the cool ones right
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Feb 26, 2020 20:49
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I asked about the flood damage car as a joke (hence the double ??) because I figured exactly what you guys confirmed; the water damage wouldn't necessarily be evident immediately, but would certainly make itself known within a few months or years. I am curious about the specifics of reconstructed/salvage titles though. Yesterday I test drove a Focus ST at a dealer. Browsing craigslist today, I see nearly the exact same car - same model, year, color, even similar mileage - for $6k less than at the dealer ($19k vs $13k). That's a third of the cost of the car. At what point does it become worth rolling the dice on something like that? For example, if that guy was willing to sell the car for $2k, of course you'd take it, and if you drove it for longer than a year you'd consider yourself having gotten your money's worth. So there's some price point at which a salvage title is worth it. If I showed up with $10,000 cash in hand I might be able to get the car from the guy. if that's the case, I'm getting the car for half of what it would cost from a dealer. Is a $9k savings worth considering? I'm not trying to convince you guys to let me buy the car; it's more of an academic curiosity.
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Feb 26, 2020 21:10
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What about all the cars on the CarMax lot that were prior "fleet vehicles" -- is that just code for a rental? Or are they safe?
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Feb 26, 2020 21:10
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flightless greeb posted:Hail damaged repaired salvage title cars are the cool ones right Pretty much, especially if you are willing to live with cosmetic damage. Hail damage can rack up big dollar amounts quick, doesn't present any real risk to the mechanical nature of the car, and unless it was some giant rear end softball sized hail that crushed in the windshield right before it changed over to a torrential rain, water damage isn't likely. Even then I don't think I'd buy a car listed as salvaged out for hail damage... but I wouldn't hesitate to pocket an insurance payout for hail damage on my Wrangler, patch it up and send it. khysanth posted:What about all the cars on the CarMax lot that were prior "fleet vehicles" -- is that just code for a rental? Or are they safe? Having literally just bought one - I'm pretty sure fleet is actual corporate fleet, not ex-rental. Autocheck and Carmax do separate out the two. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Feb 26, 2020 |
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Feb 26, 2020 21:11
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The company car I just sold had a fleet title and I've definitely seen like BMW wagons and stuff with them which I'm guessing also came out of corporate fleets. My boss said he basically never did service except the absolute minimum oil changes but I always did everything as required on mine.
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Feb 26, 2020 22:27
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Found a Suburban that checks all of our boxes, but it's a 2017 with 60k+ miles on it for just under $35k. The dealer states that it's a "no-haggle" price and they don't negotiate when I mentioned I thought the price was high for the mileage. Is this code for "yeah it's overpriced but we won't budge so don't bother" or is no-haggle pricing actually cool and good an saving me the time of bullshit negotiation? Regarding this Suburban, the Carfax states that there's an open recall on the brake pedal. I asked the dealer and they said they don't service it prior to selling and I'd have to do it after buying. This seems pretty ridiculous, right? Or is this standard?
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Feb 26, 2020 22:58
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:I asked the dealer and they said they don't service it prior to selling and I'd have to do it after buying. This seems pretty ridiculous, right? Or is this standard? So not crazy, but an inconvenience yes
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Feb 26, 2020 23:15
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