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bloops posted:That’s how I did it. Capture one and LR allow users to apply Fujifilm simulations to raws. They’re not exactly as the camera does it but extremely close. Are you saying you shoot both, or just raw? Biggest PITA with shooting both is that LrCC or whatever they’re calling the awful new version doesn’t handle dual formats very well, so you get dupes. You can hide one or the other, but then culling is annoying.
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Feb 25, 2020 15:18
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It's like you guys read my mind.Wengy posted:
I like to turn off the autofocus assist light and all sounds. The next most practical setting to mess around with, IMO, is the auto ISO presets. For example you can set a minimum shutter speed so that the camera prioritizes bumping up the ISO instead. You should probably buy the WCL-X100 (turns it to 28mm). It works beautifully on the X100 cameras and is actually well-balanced, unlike the teleconverter. The original version is like 150 bucks and drat sharp. edit: too rambly Thoren fucked around with this message at 16:43 on Feb 25, 2020 |
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Feb 25, 2020 15:46
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Dangerllama posted:Are you saying you shoot both, or just raw? I typically shot both keeping jpegs as a backup on a separate memory card. This was with the X-H1, which supported this feature.
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Feb 25, 2020 17:37
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bloops posted:I typically shot both keeping jpegs as a backup on a separate memory card. This was with the X-H1, which supported this feature. I do this too, faster and larger card in slot 1 for RAW/Video and slower smaller card in 2 for JPG, more of a peace of mind thing or if someone needs a quick preview I'll transfer to my phone and share it. Shoot mostly portraits that typically need face/skin retouching, so raw is sort of necessary. Although I have really started to hate Fuji RAW files, mainly because they're huge and beyond storing data for tweaking levels, they don't seem visually better, maybe I just really miss the sharpness and skin tones of my 5Dmk2.
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Feb 25, 2020 17:50
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Wengy posted:- Is there some sort of Capture One coupon or discount code in the box? Or will I have to pay full price? Capture One has a Fuji only pro version which is significantly cheaper than the full pro version. You could wait for a sale, but it looks like it's only $130ish full price right now which isn't bad. There's also a free C1 Fuji version that is still pretty well featured for general adjustments. Main things it's missing editing wise that Pro has is layers, masks and healing/spot removal (and you could get something like Affinity Photo to handle healing/spot removal and advanced editing, assuming you'd only really need this stuff on a small percentage of your images). One approach is to use Express until a) you're sure you want to pay for the fulll Fuji version, and/or b) there's a sale on the full Fuji version. There's also a trial of the full version. A good tip for either C1 or LR is if you're working w/ RAWs, select one of the Fuji film sims as your starting point. Both programs have decent emulations of the in-camera film sims, and they're often a better starting point than their generic RAW conversion. It also lets you start from something close to the SOOC JPEG, which is nice if you only want to tweak the camera output a bit. Dangerllama posted:Biggest PITA with shooting both is that LrCC or whatever they’re calling the awful new version doesn’t handle dual formats very well, so you get dupes. You can hide one or the other, but then culling is annoying. I haven't used a recent version of LR, but IIRC there's a feature to "auto-stack by capture time" which if you set the time interval to 0 does a pretty good job of grouping corresponding RAWs+JPEGs into the same stack (YMMV if you're shooting in burst mode). That's how I used to do it when shooting RAW+JPEG back when I used LR.
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Feb 25, 2020 18:02
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ianskate posted:I do this too, faster and larger card in slot 1 for RAW/Video and slower smaller card in 2 for JPG, more of a peace of mind thing or if someone needs a quick preview I'll transfer to my phone and share it. Shoot mostly portraits that typically need face/skin retouching, so raw is sort of necessary. Although I have really started to hate Fuji RAW files, mainly because they're huge and beyond storing data for tweaking levels, they don't seem visually better, maybe I just really miss the sharpness and skin tones of my 5Dmk2. You know, I was talking gear with a guy I know who runs a production company. I mentioned that while I mostly enjoyed using Fuji, particularly their lenses, I found the raw files to never really hit the spot for me. They always required a little more work to get a photo to a place I was happy with. Nikon files start at a better point for me. That being said, it’s really kind of a nitpick. Fuji makes excellent stuff.
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Feb 25, 2020 18:28
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Lots of great information, thanks for all your help, guys
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Feb 25, 2020 20:09
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One thing I found hella useful on my X100F was binding the ND filter to an easily accessible function button, so I could click it in and out with relative ease
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Feb 25, 2020 20:09
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bloops posted:You know, I was talking gear with a guy I know who runs a production company. I mentioned that while I mostly enjoyed using Fuji, particularly their lenses, I found the raw files to never really hit the spot for me. They always required a little more work to get a photo to a place I was happy with. Nikon files start at a better point for me. Agree with both points, but it's slightly frustrating spending way more time with a "raw" file to achieve a quality result, granted other cameras require more (some less) from that raw starting point. Maybe it's a FF vs crop sensor issue with just lack of visual data due to sensor size? Only theorizing, but yes there's too much work involved more often than not when I think about workflow from Canon raw vs Fuji, however I still am fond of the Fuji results but at times the work involved makes me want to step away. Actually picked up a cheap A7Rii to use with adapted old primes, simply for weight and size and a FF image, though I have yet to try it out for anything but shots of my baby... however I'm curious to see how the workflow pans out for the equivalent results for real work.
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Feb 25, 2020 20:20
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Dangerllama posted:Just curious are most Fuji folks shooting raw+jpeg or something else? I'm doing the raw & jpeg with my x-t3 by having the jpgs go to one memory card and the raws to the other and I loving love that it works. Edit: the reason for me is that I often take photos of Japanese vinyl toys and the garish colors are often exaggerated by JPGs. Occasionally I like taking photos and color correct so it comes out right. This is especially true with some of the reds and pinks that are used in the vinyl and paints. GATOS Y VATOS fucked around with this message at 01:54 on Feb 26, 2020 |
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Feb 26, 2020 01:50
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Babysitter Super Sleuth posted:One thing I found hella useful on my X100F was binding the ND filter to an easily accessible function button, so I could click it in and out with relative ease With the X100V this function now activates by holding down the front lever. Thoren fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Feb 26, 2020 |
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Feb 26, 2020 04:29
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I shoot both JPG and RAW with an X-T1. In Capture One, I sort the RAWs and then move them into the Trash or Selects folder. I then move the JPGs to the proper folder using a little Python script that I wrote. The script doesn't copy the ratings, but it lets me keep both versions and get rid of the duds. The SOOCs are so nice that usually upload those Google Photos and share immediately, while I tinker with the RAWs when I get the chance.
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Feb 26, 2020 06:09
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While I don't feel anything for the flip screen of the X-T4, the biggest design choice and relief for me is they've removed the metering selector, replacing it with a movie switch. Swapping my metering is one feature that I use all the time and was one of the main drawcards for getting an x-t3 in the first place, so taking it away has removed any further curiosity I may have had in it. My wallet is grateful for this change.
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Feb 26, 2020 14:33
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The Z6 has two buttons to the right of the lens. One I use for metering and the other for AF modes. They’re a little difficult to reach with my hands but invaluable, so yes I’m with you on easily selectable metering modes.
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Feb 26, 2020 15:15
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preordered the X-T4 in case I talk myself into it but I'm going to continue to think about it. I have an X-T2 and while it's already way more camera than I need (what isn't) i covet non-bobo face tracking and a return to IBIS' warm embrace. however paying full price for a 2 year old sensor is sticking in my craw, maybe I'm dumb but I really expected it to have a new sensor. Maybe they're already kind of at the limitations of what an APS-C sized sensor can do and I'm an idiot? idk still thinking about it. also I didn't realize that the flippy articulated screen meant that you had to flip it out to the side before being able to tilt it up for waist level shooting. That's weird, and as a large ogre of a man who likes to photograph normal sized people and animals, I'm often using my camera in that configuration. A definite bummer. Twenty-Seven fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Feb 26, 2020 |
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Feb 26, 2020 15:35
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I’m glad I went with the X-Pro3 as I’m not interested in doing any video which seems to really be what the difference is going to be between the X-Pro and X-T lines but I do hope we get the Eterna Bleach sim patched over. Likewise it’s weird the preview T4s didn’t have Classic Neg loaded in. I’m guess so press focuses on the new film simulation but still weird
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Feb 26, 2020 15:44
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X-T3 prices are plummeting locally. I'm seeing the body alone for $800, and the body + 18-55mm for $1050. The latter option comes with the official metal grip and a bunch of nice protective filters too. These are the lowest prices available though, probably X-T4 buyers. I wonder where the prices will stabilize at.
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Feb 26, 2020 17:41
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How are the Fuji pancake lenses? What's the recommended zoom (24-80 ish equiv range) How many lenses are sharp wide open?
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Feb 26, 2020 18:04
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I bought an XT-20 2-3 years ago, dang the XT4 looks nice, but maybe I'll get a XT3 if prices are dropping, and get another X lens instead. Really happy with my 35 f/2 though.
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Feb 26, 2020 18:22
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GEMorris posted:How are the Fuji pancake lenses? What's the recommended zoom (24-80 ish equiv range) The 16-55mm f2.8 is lovely, if a bit beefy. Fits well on the X-H1, not sure about the X-Ts without a grip. It does do weird bokeh balls under certain lighting conditions though. Probably not noticeable unless you're peeping. I got mine as a kit, and while it's pretty great I sometimes think about getting a fast wide prime and the 16-80mm F4 or a longer zoom like the 50-140 f2.8. Once I've shot enough varied stuff to see what my most commonly used focal lengths are I'll decide then.
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Feb 26, 2020 18:42
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GEMorris posted:How are the Fuji pancake lenses? What's the recommended zoom (24-80 ish equiv range) The Fuji 27/2.8 is considered pretty sharp although some reviews mention that it has greater than average field curvature. The 16-55 is nice. The 18-55 is overrated IMO. Never as sharp as my f2 primes and every copy I’ve tried has some decentering somewhere along the zoom range. Never tried the 16-80 but if it’s QC is like the 18-55 I’d be cautious about buying if I couldn’t try first.
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Feb 26, 2020 19:25
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Finger Prince posted:The 16-55mm f2.8 is lovely, if a bit beefy. Fits well on the X-H1, not sure about the X-Ts without a grip. It does do weird bokeh balls under certain lighting conditions though. Probably not noticeable unless you're peeping. I got mine as a kit, and while it's pretty great I sometimes think about getting a fast wide prime and the 16-80mm F4 or a longer zoom like the 50-140 f2.8. Once I've shot enough varied stuff to see what my most commonly used focal lengths are I'll decide then. The 16-55 fits pretty well on an X-T2, but not as well as on my X-H, but it's certainly usable.. However, the 50-140 is nearly unusable on an X-T body, unless you use a tripod.
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Feb 26, 2020 20:19
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Seeing as both the X-Pro3 and X-T4 have the same sensor and processor those new fancy algorithms for the better autofocus tracking should make their way on over right?
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Feb 27, 2020 00:09
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The 16-55 is Fuji’s equivalent to L glass, the 18-55 is often a part of kits but is a good bit better than that. I got mine new with the X-T20, and I’ve been happy with the quality. The 27 pancake is alright, it’s just missing some of the magic that everyone raves about with Fuji X glass.
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Feb 27, 2020 00:25
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The more I look at it the more doing nothing seems like the right answer. I mostly shoot primes and 30mm equiv is my most common focal range (panny 15mm f1.7) and if it weren't for lack of IBIS the x100v would be the most logical thing for me to get. I travel a lot for work so the total size of my gear is really important (currently travel with the above lens on a gx85 with one additional lens). I'll just wait three years for the next x100 with ibis
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Feb 27, 2020 01:05
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if you're looking for IBIS, might I suggest Olympus. they're totally a solvent company in active trading, sure to be around for years to come!
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Feb 27, 2020 02:42
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GEMorris posted:The more I look at it the more doing nothing seems like the right answer. I mostly shoot primes and 30mm equiv is my most common focal range (panny 15mm f1.7) and if it weren't for lack of IBIS the x100v would be the most logical thing for me to get. I travel a lot for work so the total size of my gear is really important (currently travel with the above lens on a gx85 with one additional lens). Every camera is a compromise. Either incur a penalty on weight, sensor size, cost, lens lineup, features, etc.
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Feb 27, 2020 03:01
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GEMorris posted:I'll just wait three years for the next x100 with ibis They’ve said that if they were to put ibis in the x100, it would be a lot bigger. Ibis doesn’t matter much anyway unless you need video.
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Feb 27, 2020 13:51
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teraflame posted:They’ve said that if they were to put ibis in the x100, it would be a lot bigger. Ibis doesn’t matter much anyway unless you need video. Get a load of this doofus who doesn't have the shakes.
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Feb 27, 2020 14:11
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I got the Fuji 18-55 and next month I have a firefighter pinning ceremony I’d like to shoot. I don’t think the max 55mm zoom is going to get me as close as I’m going to want so what’s a decent zoom for taking photos on stage without being overkill?
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Feb 27, 2020 15:37
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There’s always the 16-80 or you could rent whatever the high-end telephoto is. I think it’s a 70-150?
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Feb 27, 2020 15:57
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The olympus outlet (basically their refurb/reconditioned stuff) has a 20% discount today with code "LEAPYEAR". Knocks down some of the body and lens prices fairly well, especially the new 2x teleconverter. I know i'm basically the only olympus shooter left, but hey
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Feb 27, 2020 16:47
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Dr. VooDoo posted:I got the Fuji 18-55 and next month I have a firefighter pinning ceremony I’d like to shoot. I don’t think the max 55mm zoom is going to get me as close as I’m going to want so what’s a decent zoom for taking photos on stage without being overkill? 55-200
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Feb 27, 2020 17:02
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XBenedict posted:The 16-55 fits pretty well on an X-T2, but not as well as on my X-H, but it's certainly usable.. However, the 50-140 is nearly unusable on an X-T body, unless you use a tripod. The 16-55 and 50-140 are the pro zooms with heavier glass. A grip with batteries will help to balance them much better. I use the xt3 sans grip with the 16-55 and it’s manageable. Even with a grip I’m definitely still sore the next day if I forget my monopod for the 50-140. Never forget the monopod.
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Feb 27, 2020 17:14
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GEMorris posted:The more I look at it the more doing nothing seems like the right answer. I mostly shoot primes and 30mm equiv is my most common focal range (panny 15mm f1.7) and if it weren't for lack of IBIS the x100v would be the most logical thing for me to get. I travel a lot for work so the total size of my gear is really important (currently travel with the above lens on a gx85 with one additional lens). Leica Q2 obviously. Let's get six other people together and get one as a time share.
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Feb 27, 2020 17:47
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Using the 16-55 with my X-T2, even with the battery grip, I am goddamn terrible at keeping my camera steady at 1/60 or slower.* I can't imagine trying anything larger. I've never used a monopod but it seems to me like that would move around just as much? Without three legs, how does it not just wobble constantly? *It's a little embarrassing to have to ask but if there are any handy guides to good posture/positions for steady photos I'd love to read them
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Feb 27, 2020 18:53
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Cognac McCarthy posted:I've never used a monopod but it seems to me like that would move around just as much? Without three legs, how does it not just wobble constantly? You have 2 legs 
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Feb 27, 2020 18:54
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Feb 27, 2020 18:56
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Cognac McCarthy posted:Using the 16-55 with my X-T2, even with the battery grip, I am goddamn terrible at keeping my camera steady at 1/60 or slower.* I can't imagine trying anything larger. I've never used a monopod but it seems to me like that would move around just as much? Without three legs, how does it not just wobble constantly? Learn the leg hook position. Steadying a monopod is easy with practice.
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Feb 27, 2020 19:03
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Dr. VooDoo posted:I got the Fuji 18-55 and next month I have a firefighter pinning ceremony I’d like to shoot. I don’t think the max 55mm zoom is going to get me as close as I’m going to want so what’s a decent zoom for taking photos on stage without being overkill? The Fuji XC 50-230mm is actually surprisingly good for being under $300 used (check the non-new options here: https://www.amazon.com/Fujinon-XC50-230mmF4-5-6-7-OIS-II-Black/dp/B016YU67L0/). It's got OIS and image quality isn't bad at all, in my opinion!
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Feb 27, 2020 19:31
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