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I'm planning on buying a Forester this weekend while the super low APR deal is still in effect, but does anyone have any experience changing the audio? I know standard car speakers are pretty much garbage, but can you aftermarket upgrade them yourself/at a specialty shop with relative ease? I don't need any of the other nonsense in the huge package that comes with the better speakers.
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Feb 24, 2020 20:24
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Hit up Crutchfield. It looks like most 6.5" to 6.75" speakers will work, and a handful of 6x9s (wtf?). They include any necessary adapters, along with an instruction sheet on how to install everything. It's generally pretty easy, the hardest part is the R&R of the door panel on most cars. If it's the 6 speaker setup (looks like the ones with a touch screen head unit do), it has 3.5" speakers in the dash in addition to door speakers.
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Feb 25, 2020 06:12
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Looks like you can get the amp package as well. Hopefully Subarus are more easily modable than Toyotas. This will be my first from an ownership perspective.
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Feb 25, 2020 14:35
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:My 00 legacy had that issue, the real wtf is how inadequate the OEM alternator is (even new) and the piss poor grounds that Subaru chooses. Cleaning up all the grounds on mine literally made it run better, got rid of a bad hesitation and improved the idle dramatically. A lot of them had ground lugs bolted over paint and removing it I think is what made the difference STR posted:Hit up Crutchfield. It looks like most 6.5" to 6.75" speakers will work, and a handful of 6x9s (wtf?). They include any necessary adapters, along with an instruction sheet on how to install everything. It's generally pretty easy, the hardest part is the R&R of the door panel on most cars. The 6x9 is the subwoofer, haha. My XT had it
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Feb 25, 2020 17:38
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I'm just at a loss right now. I have a 00-02 and a 03-04 tow hook cover sitting here. My car is a very early 03. Neither of them fit. The 03-04 is kinda close (it's a bit short from top to bottom, and not quite wide enough), the 00-02 is way off. This car is cursed. 
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Feb 26, 2020 02:28
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I'll have to look at my 03 and see what's going on there
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Feb 26, 2020 02:35
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So the other day I went to fire up the rally car and it wouldnt start. Suspecting the charging system, I tested the battery and got good voltage, so I boosted it with my truck. With the alternator running theres an almost 3V drop lol. Gonna test the wiring tonight but pretty sure that fresh alt is going in tonight, then I'm going to inspect the misfire code. Also forgot to mention I need to find some racing buckets. I have 5 point harnesses but I'll be using them with the stock seats until I get appropriate ones. Tomorrow I'm heading over to an parts place to pick up a Cusco front strut tower brace. April 11 is the next possible rallycross in Burnt River, not sure if I'll have time in my crazy schedule for it but I've imposed a soft deadline on myself to have the car ready for then. hot cocoa on the couch fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Feb 26, 2020 |
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Feb 26, 2020 02:38
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shy boy from chess club posted:I'll have to look at my 03 and see what's going on there I think I'm just gonna swap the bumper at this point - it's beat to hell anyway, and I think it may have to come off to replace the fog light assemblies. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Feb 26, 2020 |
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Feb 26, 2020 03:21
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STR posted:I think I'm just gonna swap the bumper at this point - it's beat to hell anyway. How badly beaten? Could just be it's beaten out of shape over the years. Should at least be simple enough to grab one from a yard.
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Feb 26, 2020 03:24
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It's mainly cosmetic - the paint is beat to hell and it has a lot of deep scratches in it. It's had several love taps (lots of paint transfer), and I know it's at least been off the car for some reason - the fog lights have been obviously been R&Rd before (and not aimed afterwards). It looks like it got sideswiped on the passenger side pretty good, enough that there's paint transfer on the bumper, the passenger fog light, passenger head light, and RF suspension have been replaced, and the RR quarter panel is dented up.  Should give you an idea. Lots of road rash. edit: this is with the 03-04 tow hook cover.  It looks like the bumper has just started sagging or something? It's close to working, but not quite (also the color is way off on the 03-04 cover, the 00-02 is a perfect match). Wonder if the crash beam behind it is missing. I'm gonna go ahead and tear the bumper off tomorrow and see what's going on. The sagging would help explain why the fog lights are aimed almost straight down, it's pressing against the bottom of them. Weirdly the bumper seems to line up fine with everything else. Looks like one junkyard near me has an 03 that, at least a month ago, had the front clip still. They have a couple of 00-02s that showed up a bit more recently, but I think I'd have to swap the crash bar as well. edit 2: talked to the guy I got both covers from, sent him the pics. He confirmed I have an 03-04 bumper that's just managed to sag itself out of shape over the years. Gave me a few tips for pulling one at the junkyard. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Feb 26, 2020 |
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Feb 26, 2020 03:35
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Dropped a STi front strut tower bar in today, was pretty easy especially since the AC is already deleted with the lines crimped off. Adds some much needed colour to the brown clay filled engine bay I think. I also test fit my harnesses in on the stock seats. I'd like to get some used racing buckets but I'm holding out for a good deal. Almost bought some STi seats as well from the JDM import shop I got the brace bar from lol. They feel great though, will definitely help keep me stable while I'm sliding. Still need to get 1 more bolt to get the anti-submarine strap in, this is actually a 5 point.  I changed my alternator last night and fired the car up and the everything seemed good. The battery read ~12.5V before starting and ~13.5V while running (whereas before it only read about 9V). Today I decided after I put in the brace bar and harnesses I'd like to drive it around a bit and just feel out the harness position, but when I went to start it up all I got was starter motor clicking... I read the battery and now it's only saying 10.4V? What the hell happened here? Could this be some sort of vampirism somewhere or is this battery dead too? I know it was good last night. I'd rather buy a new battery if I don't have to, the alt came with the car so that's why I changed it but I don't want to keep spending before I know for sure the problem.
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Feb 26, 2020 20:56
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STR posted:Brokeback stuff I dont see a tow hook cover on mine my man, Im blind or do you have a pic?
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Feb 26, 2020 21:08
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It's next to the passenger side foglight. It blends pretty well until you look really close. Once they've been popped off, they don't like to go back easily. You never know it's there until it gets knocked off or you have to use it. And it looks like they get painted already attached to the bumper, which makes them blend in even more. The line along the bottom matches the line on the other side, the only real clue is the tiny gap on the side toward the middle of the car. Quick and dirty MS Paint from a pic I found online (not my car, but the same color):  This is my actual bumper, with the cover missing:  The 00-02 version is a bit wider along the top. Here's the undamaged 03-04 cover I got from eBay trying to fit on my very saggy and road rashed bumper (OEM part, but it looks like it's been repainted.. or might be from a tan Legacy?)  Better overall pic of how it looks without the cover:  Given how thin the hook is, I suspect it was meant more for use during shipping than anything else. It doesn't look sturdy enough to yank the car out of a ditch. e: this is the best pic I have showing the hook itself. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:48 on Feb 27, 2020 |
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Feb 27, 2020 08:30
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Holy poo poo yeah had no idea that was there, I was like all up in the bumper too thinking you were the crazy one
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Feb 27, 2020 10:28
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shy boy from chess club posted:Cleaning up all the grounds on mine literally made it run better, got rid of a bad hesitation and improved the idle dramatically. A lot of them had ground lugs bolted over paint and removing it I think is what made the difference I think I should probably do this with the electrical issues I've been having. I did a parasitic drain test by pulling all fuses and checking for current drops and while 60ish mA is the resting current draw, no one circuit accounted for most of that. I feel okay with this current draw, it's high, but not alarmingly so. Did you change ground wires out or just clean up the connections? Wire brush? e: also turns out my battery was 8 years old lol. Explains the faltering alternator and dead cell hot cocoa on the couch fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Feb 27, 2020 |
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Feb 27, 2020 16:33
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Hello, I have a picture.  I'm picking it back up tonight. They did clear bra and ceramic coating. I am excited. The Mazda is awful to drive. I have to say, for throwing bronze wheels on it, they really went hard into the white + gloss black trim for the series white. This shot is kind of selling me on the black wheels.
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Feb 27, 2020 17:08
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:I think I should probably do this with the electrical issues I've been having. I did a parasitic drain test by pulling all fuses and checking for current drops and while 60ish mA is the resting current draw, no one circuit accounted for most of that. I feel okay with this current draw, it's high, but not alarmingly so. It was so worth it. I used my drill with a wire brush on it and cleaned the lugs, bolt and all the paint off on the car side then afterwards I covered them with either dielectric grease or battery terminal spray to try to keep them from corroding again. I think I had to replace the two ground wires that go to the frame rails on either side of the engine, on those the wire is usually bad. Ive replaced a lot of those on other Subarus if Im doing other work and they are bad.
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Feb 27, 2020 17:09
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Who's the current analogue for subarugenuineparts? Need to order a handful of small things. Anyone else have their gas cap tether break on an annual basis? 
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Feb 27, 2020 22:58
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Subiegal was doing parts for a different dealer for a little bit but that didn't work out I guess and is now is at an indy shop. I've looked up parts on both 1stsubaruparts and subarupartsforyou and their prices seem decent so whichever is physically closer? There's also fred beans subaru maybe? The legacy guys used to love ordering their extra s gear oil from that place. My access to dealer parts is pretty limited (aside from walking into my local one I mean) and prices aren't that great. But I do have things like oil filters and group n mounts and stuff.
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Feb 28, 2020 06:56
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jamal posted:Subiegal was doing parts for a different dealer for a little bit but that didn't work out I guess and is now is at an indy shop. I've looked up parts on both 1stsubaruparts and subarupartsforyou and their prices seem decent so whichever is physically closer? There's also fred beans subaru maybe? The legacy guys used to love ordering their extra s gear oil from that place. With the group N mounts, since the slack and movement that the mounts would have gets shifted somewhere else when replaced is there a chance of having something break that would otherwise not have if you stayed with the stock mounts/bushings? Kind of a poorly phrased question but I think you may understand what I'm getting at. Basically if the movement isn't going where it normally goes where would it go afterwards?
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Feb 28, 2020 23:44
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Yes sort of and that is something I think about especially with regards to really stiff/solid mounts or only having 1 or two stiffer drivetrain mounts with the rest stock. I especially cringe at full solid drivetrain mounts and unsprung clutch discs because that is just going to greatly increase the shock loads that drivetrain components see and possibly introduce weird harmonics to things. That prodrive isle of man/nurburgring car has a pretty neat rear subframe mount setup that removes compliance but still accomodates shock loads to protect the diff The group n mounts are still made of rubber and move though, and I feel like as long as they're still bushings and have some compliance that's ok, and in some cases a benefit. The stock bushings, especially after a few years, probably move too much. There was a video on youtube taken of the rear subframe and diff of an sti on an autocross course and it was pretty surprising how much everything moved around. Other thing is that I also think that if you want to do, say, motor mounts, you should do the trans and pitch stop as well. Or don't just put on a stiffer pitch stop. Reason being much more proportion of the loads are now going through just the stiffer mounts and not all of the drivetrain mounts. Like, I put on a replacement pitch stop one time, but had stock motor and trans mounts still (new takeoffs from an sti at least), and it was like the whole drivetrain was just attached to the firewall and nothing else. I expect if I had gone with something like cusco's mounts or even group n it would have possibly made things better.
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Feb 29, 2020 03:33
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Cross posting from the car audio thread:Charles posted:Someone asked me about putting a new headunit in a 2015 Subaru Forester, with the Harmon Kardon w/nav.
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Feb 29, 2020 09:38
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My 2005 Outback (EZ30) smells like burning after driving. Well, not burning exactly, more like what I'd call "hot engine" but really strongly. Passengers have described it as "burning plastic" or "rubbery smell". Short drives are okay, this is like after an hr at 60mph/100kph Oil is good, coolant level is good, ATF is good, diff oil is good. Timing chain so it can't be that. Could the accessory belt smell like that? I only have a very partial service record and the first 80,000km is in Japanese so I am not sure when it was last done. Not sure if it's related but it also whines, and it may be paranoia but I think it's got louder recently. I have no idea what's causing that but it's linked to engine speed not trans or road speed.
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Feb 29, 2020 10:45
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simplefish posted:Subaru 2004 (BP) Outback, 3.0 H6 This is the whine from December mustard_tiger posted:Most rear wheel bearings are a hub unit. If your car doesn't have a lot of rust it should be a simple job, plus the hub is cheap on rockauto. It's 4 bolts for the hub and then pull it off the half shaft. I'd say 1 hour of work. Also I forgot to say thanks for this info! Good to know the difference between getting a hub vs bearing. It's still on my to-do list for now.
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Feb 29, 2020 10:50
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simplefish posted:My 2005 Outback (EZ30) smells like burning after driving. Well, not burning exactly, more like what I'd call "hot engine" but really strongly. Passengers have described it as "burning plastic" or "rubbery smell". Anecdotal advice: check your front CV boots for splits and if they're spraying grease on your exhaust. I've had just that happen and it smells like burning plastic/rubber but only after driving long and fast enough for it to happen.
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Feb 29, 2020 15:23
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Any power steering leaks? How's that fluid colour and level?
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Feb 29, 2020 15:48
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03 Outback, 2.5, 4EAT auto. Best way to reseal the transmission pan? (that's the main question) And... chances of 50 tubes of RTV to seal the pan causing shifting issues? (much like using way too much RTV on an engine oil pan can cause RTV to squeeze out and get sucked up into the oil pickup, starving the engine....) (secondary question since I mostly just drive to/from work now... 3 miles a day) Whoever had their dickbeaters on this thing used huge globs of RTV, and it's leaving a fist-sized puddle of ATF on the ground when I park at work. A little larger when parked after work until the next shift at home (since, well, it's sitting for 12-14 hours instead of 8-10). I'm also thinking (hoping  ) that some of that ATF wound up in the internal screen, it has a bit of a delay going into reverse (~5 seconds). Going into drive after sitting a bit, or after backing up, it'll creep forward slightly until I give it gas. If I goose it, it slams into gear. If I nudge the gas, you barely feel it fully engage. Once it's engaged it drives fine, though 2-3 and 3-4 upshifts are a little sloppy once I've been driving awhile (20+ minutes). I've changed the fluid twice, along with the external filter. The first time the fluid was kinda dark, the second time it looked decent. Still looks good on the dipstick, though I plan to change it again soon.It's leaking at the rear of the transmission. I don't think it's the tailshaft seal/bushing; it's damp above the pan, but not what I'd expect to be getting dripping on the ground (it could easily be fluid blown back up under the car while driving), while the pan itself has drips clinging. I've heard these things will never seal right once the pan is off if you use a gasket? And the pan has definitely been off. I haven't had the pan off yet, but I'm hoping the pickup screen wound up with some RTV. If not, well, $1600 Subaru that I hope to get a year out of, it hasn't gotten any worse in the 6 months that I've owned it (got a bit better after the fluid changes, shits firmed up too - I've put ~3k on it).  stevobob posted:Anecdotal advice: check your front CV boots for splits and if they're spraying grease on your exhaust. I've had just that happen and it smells like burning plastic/rubber but only after driving long and fast enough for it to happen. This. But if it's leaking from the rear crank seal, it's probably dripping right on the exhaust, and leaves no signs outside of the smell and an occasional puff of smoke. My 03 Outback does this, and does it really well. My transmission pan is also leaking... and you can see where wind has blown it right on the exhaust.  Yank the undertray, preferably with the front on jackstands (parking brake and wheel chocks of course), and see what's damp. Whatever it is, it's probably hitting the exhaust. Or something built a nest on one of your exhaust manifolds.. How do the brakes feel? Are you comfortable looking at the pads to make sure they're wearing evenly? A dragging caliper can cause that smell (though it's a distinct "hot brake" smell). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Feb 29, 2020 |
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Feb 29, 2020 19:32
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STR posted:How do the brakes feel? Are you comfortable looking at the pads to make sure they're wearing evenly? A dragging caliper can cause that smell (though it's a distinct "hot brake" smell). One wheel will probably be distinguishably hotter than the others, if it's hot enough to generate a smell - putting your hand near each wheel after a drive will be enough to find that out.
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Mar 1, 2020 02:05
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STR posted:03 Outback, 2.5, 4EAT auto. The best way to seal the pan is with the rubber gasket and no RTV, Ive done it to all of mine and its never leaked. The person that did the pan on my 03 used nothing but RTV and it was a bitch to get it off and I bent the rim prying on it so gently caress that guy. I flattened it out when I put it back on so just check yours for flatness before you put it back on. I just used a chunk of 2x4 and a 4lb hammer. Redoing my 97 with a gasket stopped the leaks as well, it had 2 different kinds of RTV and a cork gasket and was a mess.
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Mar 1, 2020 16:27
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simplefish posted:My 2005 Outback (EZ30) smells like burning after driving. Well, not burning exactly, more like what I'd call "hot engine" but really strongly. Passengers have described it as "burning plastic" or "rubbery smell". Is your steering rack leaking onto the cats?
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Mar 1, 2020 20:32
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Anyone know the part number for a set of ARP's for a EZ30R? A workshop manual would also come in helpful, there's a some torque setting I dont know that I need
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Mar 3, 2020 11:00
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It appears you can't get those direct from arp and need to go through some place like outfront who claims to have some sort of exclusive deal. h6 engine section for a 2007 legacy here https://drive.google.com/open?id=18HE49Ah2McSkIonOHdVVWM9V0Yf2hLQC
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Mar 3, 2020 20:34
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This is the least AI post ever, but does anyone have opinions on the EyeSight adaptive cruise control / lane centering / collision avoidance system in the 2020 Outback? I love those features in the Tesla 3, but could use a more rugged AWD vehicle with more ground clearance and cargo space, and the $2500/$250 36mo base model lease is enticing. It’s a massive relief to be able to do long highway legs just resting my hand on the wheel and keeping an eye open for weirdness while the car steers and manages speed.
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Mar 4, 2020 18:51
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Loucks posted:This is the least AI post ever, but does anyone have opinions on the EyeSight adaptive cruise control / lane centering / collision avoidance system in the 2020 Outback? I love those features in the Tesla 3, but could use a more rugged AWD vehicle with more ground clearance and cargo space, and the $2500/$250 36mo base model lease is enticing. It’s a massive relief to be able to do long highway legs just resting my hand on the wheel and keeping an eye open for weirdness while the car steers and manages speed. I loved it on my buddy's '17(I think) OB. It doesn't the lane keeping, but does do adapt/collision avoidance-brake.
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Mar 4, 2020 18:57
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toplitzin posted:I loved it on my buddy's '17(I think) OB. It doesn't the lane keeping, but does do adapt/collision avoidance-brake. Thanks. No lanekeeping? The Subaru site claims it does lane centering. Guess I have more research to do. Hopefully they added it since ‘17 and Subaru.com isn’t playing silly definitional tricks.
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Mar 4, 2020 19:05
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Lane centring is an option, I believe
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Mar 4, 2020 19:34
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Loucks posted:Thanks. No lanekeeping? The Subaru site claims it does lane centering. Guess I have more research to do. Hopefully they added it since ‘17 and Subaru.com isn’t playing silly definitional tricks. I might have the year wrong, but their OB does adaptive cruise, braking, and lane warnings but not keeping and is an earlier version, so feature sets would likely differ. Edit: my bad it's a '13. toplitzin fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Mar 4, 2020 |
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Mar 4, 2020 19:44
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Loucks posted:This is the least AI post ever, but does anyone have opinions on the EyeSight adaptive cruise control / lane centering / collision avoidance system in the 2020 Outback? I love those features in the Tesla 3, but could use a more rugged AWD vehicle with more ground clearance and cargo space, and the $2500/$250 36mo base model lease is enticing. It’s a massive relief to be able to do long highway legs just resting my hand on the wheel and keeping an eye open for weirdness while the car steers and manages speed. I like the ACC/CA in my crosstrek but I use my hands to steer
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Mar 4, 2020 20:25
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Jesus it's hard to delete the roof rails on the GG chassis. I guess the only years they came as an option was 02 and 03, they were stock 04-07. I cannot for the life of me find the mold/trim that fits where the rails would go without the rail cutout. Subaruparts wants $300 including shipping for ~5 lb of plastic  I may just fill the holes with sealant and fill the channel with caulking or something filed down and painted black or something. Anyone else do the rail delete?
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Mar 4, 2020 20:27
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Loucks posted:Thanks. No lanekeeping? The Subaru site claims it does lane centering. Guess I have more research to do. Hopefully they added it since ‘17 and Subaru.com isn’t playing silly definitional tricks. It will “lane keep” to a point. Like you’ll bounce of the lines 2 or 3 times and then it will turn itself off. If the road is too twisty it will also turn off. It will also turn off the “adaptive cruise control” if you come to a stop for more than ~5 seconds. This is in the US. Behavior may vary by market. I personally think it’s great, but I don’t have any first hand experience with Tesla’s autopilot to compare. I think the car does have some weird “off throttle” behavior if you have precollision braking enabled, but I don’t really notice it anymore. It felt like it was needlessly applying the brakes rather than coasting/engine braking (in traffic).
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Mar 4, 2020 21:31
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