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Finally varnished some models and can finally call something done!
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Mar 5, 2020 14:50
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Bucnasti posted:I’ve never used a H&S, but everyone who has says they’re dreamy. They also tend to be pretty expensive, and although I’m not opposed to paying for quality I feel like I get more bang for my buck with Badger brushes. The H&S Ultra is around $99, which doesn't make a whole lot more than the Patriot 105 (though it's likely I've linked to wrong item again.) That said, maybe it's better if I stick to Badger.
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Mar 5, 2020 14:59
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If you're in the US, buy a Badger as your first airbrush. Everybody starting out will inevitably do something stupid and break something, and you're gonna have a way better time getting them to replace parts than H&S. Depending on what it is, they might fix it for free. I dropped my Patriot about a week after I got it and managed to land it right on the little bit of the needle that sticks out of the nozzle. One in a thousand shot, but it bent the needle past the point of usability. Someone else will overtighten the spray regulator and strip the threads, or fling their nozzle down the drain. 
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Mar 5, 2020 17:45
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grassy gnoll posted:Someone else will overtighten the spray regulator and strip the threads Oh yeah, this. I broke my first airbrush a couple's month in because I used the tiny tool to tighten the head. Don't do that. Use only your fingers. The tool is there only to unscrew, not to screw.
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Mar 5, 2020 19:03
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Painted some Arcane Tempest Gun Mages. Old sculpts, but I enjoyed painting them anyway.  
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Mar 5, 2020 20:05
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So I just headed up to Michigan Toy Soldier and snagged Ak's wet palate. I use a mix of citadel and Vallejo paints and I was wondering if you guys had any tips for me as a first time wet palate user. Do I need to thin my citadel paints still, or is that taken care of with the palate? Will I run into issues having the Vallejo paints become too thin? How often should I clean the palate? Is there anything I can do to reduce mold? The box recommends I store it in the refrigerator, does anyone have experience with this?
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Mar 5, 2020 21:18
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Hey, I haven't painted anything since 2014, so I picked up a little project to get back into it. I got some of those fancy new plague marines and wanted to use a Nausicaa style theme, like so- The background will be something like, an old feral world in the middle of nowhere that was used as a Space Marine recruiting ground was invaded by a "great menace from the stars", and the local war ended with a Kryptmann style exterminatus on the world. Everything was dead and dust for millenia until a mysterious cosmic benefactor chanced upon it and took pity on the dead, reseeding the world with ever expanding fungal wastes and toxic forests. In the wake of the new growing ecology, fossils of man and monster alike from millennia past rise with warped forms and unknown purpose, shepherded by Plague Marines, of course. I plan on having insect/tyranid monsters resembling the giant cicadas and dragonflies from Nausicaa as demons, and WHFB skeletons with as plague zombies, representing the bones of the old feral culture rising as well. Hopefully with a fungal tinge to the bones and appropriate growths and corrosion going on so they don't look out of place. So I need a scheme      This is what I have so far. I started with Vulkan Green and worked up from there, thinking I had something good going on, but once the other colors started coming down I realized I may need to make that contrast harder. I used the colors I had on hand to do the Darren Latham corrosion effect and it worked well enough, although what I tried to do on the blades didn't really work out and I'm going to redo them. Same for the bolter; I had an idea but I don't think it really worked out. You can see that I tried to give him a Zaku style cyclops eye but it didn't quite come through either- I did a great deal of relearning about paint consistency and I think that contributed to my difficulty. Blue for the growthy bits matched the reference picture but I'm not sure it was the right color choice for the model either. Anyone have any suggestions while I'm working this out? Once i get the weapons figured out I need to do basing and I'm worried that it will need to be a brighter, pink/light blue sandy base like the opening of the movie, with cracked earth effects. Learning opportunities!
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Mar 6, 2020 00:46
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 loving around doing some ice and fire weapons
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Mar 6, 2020 01:41
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BARONS CYBER SKULL posted:
I like the blending happening on that fire sword.
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Mar 6, 2020 02:04
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TotalHell posted:I like the blending happening on that fire sword. it was entirely accidental from attempting to clean up some mess while it was still wet and the brush slipped, looked so good i kept doing it
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Mar 6, 2020 02:50
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My blood red turned a weird pinkish color since i last used it. Was the cap too loose or something? Is this what happens when its drying out?
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Mar 6, 2020 12:09
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banned from Starbucks posted:My blood red turned a weird pinkish color since i last used it. Was the cap too loose or something? Is this what happens when its drying out? Have you shaken it vigorously?
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Mar 6, 2020 12:16
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Yeah as hard and long as i do my d..uh other colors. And theyre all fine.
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Mar 6, 2020 12:37
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JBP posted:I'm not really looking for strong contrasts and stuff since I'm using the old vampire counts art as a guide in general. The reds and yellows show up better to the eye I think that's a crappy photo. The models are basically yellow, orange then brown before using a red earth pigment to add red to the bottom of the ragged cloaks. It's got to be a fast process. I got another eight done in about 90 minutes. If you're doing speed Blanche, please also consider using a micron pen to draw wavy flames, Roman numerals, checkerboards, and random ominous Latin words wherever you please.
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Mar 6, 2020 12:59
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I've always wanted to mess around with micron pens but I've read they clog up really easily when drawing over paint and interact strangely with varnishes.
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Mar 6, 2020 17:24
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Kabuki Shipoopi posted:So I just headed up to Michigan Toy Soldier and snagged Ak's wet palate. I use a mix of citadel and Vallejo paints and I was wondering if you guys had any tips for me as a first time wet palate user. I'm hardly an expert, but here goes anyway; I've never used that particular wet palette (mines a tupperware box with a flat sponge and some parchment paper), but in my experience; It depends. Which I realise is unhelpful but... Different paints work differently on the wet palette. You're going to need to experiment a little to get the thickness you personally like. I usually put a drop of water near the paint, then pull a little of the water into the paint as required. Citadel paints usually need this, I dont use many vallejo paints, but their yellow doesnt generally need thinning on my wet palette. But then, I generally try to avoid thinning yellow as much as I probably should in the interest of getting at least a little coverage. Cleaning the palette... I've seen a lot of people complaining about mold on their palette after a while, but I've never experienced that. I think it very much depends on your environment. Where I live its cold a lot of the time, if you live in the tropics then you're going to have to clean it more often. I've seen people recommend adding a few drops of alcohol (propanol or whatever, not drinking alcohol) to the water to fight mold, but I kind of think if it was enough alcohol to really effect mold growth then it would have an effect on your paints. Personally I clean it (and let the sponge totally dry) when I know that I'm not going to be using it for the next week or so and/or when I need to replace the paper, which is irregular at best. Somewhere between once a month and once every two, depending on how much I'm painting. Storing in the fridge probably wont do any harm, but I'm not sure its necessary either. Hopefully someone else will be along in a minute with experience of this.
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Mar 6, 2020 17:42
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:I've always wanted to mess around with micron pens but I've read they clog up really easily when drawing over paint and interact strangely with varnishes. yep, you cannot micron over paint. it will ruin the pen in moments.
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Mar 6, 2020 17:48
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wet palette tip: have a separate dry palette (an old saucer or tile or lid of plastic takeout box works gr8) for some things such as metallic paints or inks, or for loving around and experimenting with mixing colours most people who DIYed a wet palette out of a takeout carton probably use the lid for this purpose already but idk how good the lid of the purpose-made one would be
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Mar 6, 2020 18:55
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Ignite Memories posted:yep, you cannot micron over paint. it will ruin the pen in moments. What? I Micron over paint all the time; text on purity seals to freehand dags and checkerboard patterns and have had the same pens for over a year. The only problem I've ever had is pushing down too hard and scraping paint off.
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Mar 6, 2020 19:15
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SiKboy posted:I'm hardly an expert, but here goes anyway; I've never used that particular wet palette (mines a tupperware box with a flat sponge and some parchment paper), but in my experience; It depends. Which I realise is unhelpful but... Different paints work differently on the wet palette. You're going to need to experiment a little to get the thickness you personally like. I usually put a drop of water near the paint, then pull a little of the water into the paint as required. Citadel paints usually need this, I dont use many vallejo paints, but their yellow doesnt generally need thinning on my wet palette. But then, I generally try to avoid thinning yellow as much as I probably should in the interest of getting at least a little coverage. Thanks for the tips! I played with it last night for a few, and it seems I don't need to thin my citadel paints as much as I had before. We'll see how it goes, but I appreciate the help!
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Mar 6, 2020 20:20
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Speaking of thinning I'm becoming curious to thinning using more than water, like matte medium or flow improve. Does anyone care to share some wisdom?
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Mar 6, 2020 21:12
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Phi230 posted:Speaking of thinning I'm becoming curious to thinning using more than water, like matte medium or flow improve. Does anyone care to share some wisdom? I use flow improver for thinning and it works great, but water seems to get the trick done just as well. I keep flow improver for when I'm mixing washes together to keep the paint running into crevices.
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Mar 6, 2020 21:17
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Finished up Steelheart's Champions, featuring my first attempt at freehanding some simple lines on his cloak. Think it turned out alright. Moving on to Sepulchral Guard. The first model was a joy to paint.  Underworlds warbands are perfect for me, just when I'm sick of painting metal/skin/fur/bone it's time to move on to something entirely different.
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Mar 6, 2020 21:48
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Winklebottom posted:Finished up Steelheart's Champions, featuring my first attempt at freehanding some simple lines on his cloak. Think it turned out alright. These are really cool!
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Mar 6, 2020 21:57
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Winklebottom posted:Finished up Steelheart's Champions, featuring my first attempt at freehanding some simple lines on his cloak. Think it turned out alright. That man's face is really loving impressive.
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Mar 6, 2020 22:01
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Phi230 posted:Speaking of thinning I'm becoming curious to thinning using more than water, like matte medium or flow improve. Does anyone care to share some wisdom?
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Mar 6, 2020 22:20
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Winklebottom posted:Finished up Steelheart's Champions, featuring my first attempt at freehanding some simple lines on his cloak. Think it turned out alright. That dude looks like he wants to kill me and it's rad.
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Mar 6, 2020 22:29
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Phi230 posted:Speaking of thinning I'm becoming curious to thinning using more than water, like matte medium or flow improve. Does anyone care to share some wisdom? Sure, water alone can do just about anything you want but can take a lot of practice to get to get the hang of. Check out Darren Latham's lord of blights masterclass on YouTube (while it's still there). he shows the consistency you want to water down paint to for different applications, both on the palette and on his thumbnail. I hadn't realized just how much you can water paint down and it still be useable. As far as mediums go I find them useful for making transparent layers/glazes that are easier to control than water alone. Great for smoothing out blends between shades and building up smooth highlights. I'm using Golden satin glaze medium for some NMM right now. Matte medium is nice for the same reason but without the slight sheen. Here's a couple WIP I have going: Wight Queen - satin glaze medium used for blending on the gold NMM  Lord of Blight following along with Darren Latham's videos - only water for thinning 
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Mar 6, 2020 22:49
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One thing I’ve found is that the more you water your paint down, the more crucial it becomes to not have too much paint on your brush
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Mar 6, 2020 22:59
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tangy yet delightful posted:These are really cool! Werix posted:That man's face is really loving impressive. TotalHell posted:That dude looks like he wants to kill me and it's rad. Thanks, I think it took me like 4 tries until I got a nice looking dot entirely by accident Winklebottom fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Mar 7, 2020 |
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Mar 6, 2020 23:56
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jesus WEP posted:One thing I’ve found is that the more you water your paint down, the more crucial it becomes to not have too much paint on your brush Yep. Pro-tip is to have a kitchen towel handy and use that to absorb the excess.
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Mar 7, 2020 08:31
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The Firestarter joins my Malifaux crew. I need to get some color shift paint, so I can paint a trail of gasoline from the fire to his fuel can. 
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Mar 7, 2020 12:32
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EdsTeioh posted:The only problem I've ever had is pushing down too hard and scraping paint off. Same here, I used a micron to black-line an entire Death Guard army. They're also excellent for dotting pupils in larger-scale (32mm+) faces.
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Mar 7, 2020 13:14
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Electric Hobo posted:The Firestarter joins my Malifaux crew. I need to get some color shift paint, so I can paint a trail of gasoline from the fire to his fuel can. Looks good!
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Mar 7, 2020 13:42
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Painted up a quick Cerastus knight.
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Mar 7, 2020 14:43
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Electric Hobo posted:The Firestarter joins my Malifaux crew. I need to get some color shift paint, so I can paint a trail of gasoline from the fire to his fuel can. Dang, that looks fantastic!
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Mar 7, 2020 15:08
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Electric Hobo posted:The Firestarter joins my Malifaux crew. I need to get some color shift paint, so I can paint a trail of gasoline from the fire to his fuel can. I like really like the lighting effect, very cool! The muted color palette works really well. Same with the Blanche wights a few posts back. I painted a space ship. My Imperial fleet needs a worthy enemy. +++ Report: Unknown capital ship sighted approaching commerce lanes south of subsector capital. Augur pictgrams enclosed.      +++ +++ Analysis: Type: Grand cruiser. Class: Repulsive class Pattern: Unknown, suspected III Delta Chalcographus (Heretical/M34) Name: Unknown Threat class: High. Engage only at squadron strength. +++ I'll add some portholes and markings once I figure out exactly how I want to do them. I have the four box set cruiser and a couple of Iconoclast squadrons to go.
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Mar 7, 2020 22:09
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Decorus posted:I like really like the lighting effect, very cool! The muted color palette works really well. Same with the Blanche wights a few posts back. This is great, battlefleet: gothic has always been so cool to look at.
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Mar 7, 2020 23:02
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So this is I think the 5th mini I've ever painted. The first four all have pretty glaring errors, but I want to keep them for the future so I can look back and laugh at how bad I was/am. I've been super intimated to post because there are so many awesome painters here (this is more me being silly and scared for no particular reason, everyone is always so nice), but I figure that if I can get some direct c&c that it'd be more helpful than slamming my head against a wall trying out techniques willy-nilly. I went though the basic Reaper learn to paint box and then the first one in the "advanced techniques" box to learn some baseline skills coupled with watching a lot of mini painting YouTube and absorbing stuff through that via osmosis). It's the first time I've tried to put a color scheme together without just following what the instructions said for the "learn to paint" stuff. I think it turned out at least okay, I tried to drybrush some metallic onto the gun and spewed glitter all over the rest of the mini that I think I mostly managed to get off. I know he needs to go on a base and that needs to be nice and good too -- I'm a big old newbie and that stuff is all in the mail right now so I can at least make it not hideous. One thing I really want to work on is trying to get more color intensity (brightness?), I think the muted palette kind of works for the post-apocolyptic feel, but also was entirely an unintended consequence.  
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Mar 8, 2020 00:05
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took me a long rear end time to clean the mold lines from 48 arms, but i finished painting these ugly bastards: got me that ~70 color vallejo set and this purple is v nice
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Mar 8, 2020 00:06
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