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hot cocoa on the couch posted:Jesus it's hard to delete the roof rails on the GG chassis. I guess the only years they came as an option was 02 and 03, they were stock 04-07. I cannot for the life of me find the mold/trim that fits where the rails would go without the rail cutout. Subaruparts wants $300 including shipping for ~5 lb of plastic Use Saabaru parts. They are usually not picked over as much in parts yards and junkyards.
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Mar 5, 2020 00:38
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Eyesight is awesome and 90% what I want out of autonomous driving.
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Mar 5, 2020 00:54
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Loucks posted:This is the least AI post ever, but does anyone have opinions on the EyeSight adaptive cruise control / lane centering / collision avoidance system in the 2020 Outback? I love those features in the Tesla 3, but could use a more rugged AWD vehicle with more ground clearance and cargo space, and the $2500/$250 36mo base model lease is enticing. It’s a massive relief to be able to do long highway legs just resting my hand on the wheel and keeping an eye open for weirdness while the car steers and manages speed. Eyesight is loving amazing, I agree that it's also 90% of what I want out of autonomous driving, but the entire Subaru package is utter garbage. The point of contention here is not Eyesight itself, it is the rule mandating that all cars by 2018 have backup cameras. As a result, Subaru, like other car manufacturers, have leaned in heavily on dashboards with giant touchscreen infotainment screens, so they have something to project a rearview camera to. This has led to a widespread deletion of physical knobs and buttons, requiring you to take your eyes off the road in order to manipulate something that has no tactile feedback. So you'll be thankful for Eyesight covering for you when you're driving distracted. But if that wasn't bad enough, there is something called a "Driver Monitoring System" in the cars now. One that yells at you for driving distracted. Which is a situation forced upon you by the lovely dash controls. Or, as I found out driving the loaner, even if you have your head turned to the side for too long watching for a break in traffic with which to make a turn. If there is one thing I absolutely hate, it's getting yelled at for doing something I've been forced to do. I refuse to buy a new Subaru until they unfuck their poo poo. But back to Eyesight: More recent versions have few too many greeblies in the design for my liking. Blind spot detection, and the lights that turn on that tell you that there's someone in your blind spot. Which, I note, you should not have if your mirrors are aimed correctly anyways. To wit: if you can see the side of your own car looking in your side mirrors: Why? Frontal collision detection is kind of a pain when driving manually, too. drat thing kept going off on me while I'm ALREADY SLOWING DOWN, I TOOK MY FOOT OFF THE PEDAL AND AM COASTING TO A STOP, and then LOUD NOISES and I slam my foot on the brake and stop twenty feet short of where I was aiming. Once I turned those features off, things were fine... except for the distracting dashboard lights that stay permanently on telling me that there were features disabled, THAT I DELIBERATELY DISABLED SO THEY'D STOP BEING A DISTRACTION. SwissArmyDruid fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Mar 5, 2020 |
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Mar 5, 2020 01:48
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Early versions of Eyesight don't have lane keeping, as it's still a hydraulic power steering system until the 15+ Outback/Legacy. I don't know how the newer versions are, the last time I shopped for one was in 2016.
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Mar 5, 2020 01:53
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Use Saabaru parts. They are usually not picked over as much in parts yards and junkyards. True I always forget about the 9-2x. Thanks for the reminder.
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Mar 5, 2020 02:10
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SwissArmyDruid posted:To wit: if you can see the side of your own car looking in your side mirrors: Why? Some people with bad spatial reasoning need a known reference point to make sense of what they're seeing.
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Mar 5, 2020 03:09
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Thanks for the comments on EyeSight everyone. Sounds like the LKA isn’t actually lane centering, which sucks. Honestly after driving the Tesla I’m perfectly happy with a touchscreen interface as long as it’s responsive and well-designed, but the Tesla offers significant and functional voice automation, and otherwise I just don’t bother with it unless I’m away from traffic and cross streets or at a stop. Guess I’ll stop loving around here and go test drive one to see how good/bad it is. It seems crazy that more automakers don’t have truly functional ACC/LCA/CA standard.
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Mar 5, 2020 03:56
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One reason I enjoy using android auto in my impreza is that I can either use voice commands, or use the knobs to cycle through menus without actually having to use the touch screen for much at all (like you don't have to scroll through song results with the touch screen, you can spin through it with the knob and then press the knob to select something). Not perfect but still better than 0 feedback. Also really enjoy eyesight partially because it doesn't autopilot for you, it just helps you along. Never feels like its going to get me into trouble like a full autopilot system would.
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Mar 5, 2020 06:45
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From what I've read it sounds like the 2020 models can have lane centering which is an upgrade from lane correction. I love the lane assist and EyeSight in general in my 17 Legacy and is specifically why I bought it. Lane correction just steers you back from the lane edge you're encroaching but won't maintain correct steering as was mentioned. It'll yell at you for being distracted if you try to have it do so as you bounce back and forth between each side and then stop if you don't keep centered on your own. LCA is supposed to keep you centered as a sort of auto steering. Here's a video on it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKX7m17qSTw EyeSight does have it's limits for sure and I don't know how it differs from Tesla's stuff. There's a spot on my drive where it'll stop working when it's raining since it's dark and no road markings are clear. In heavy rain, the little bit of snow I've come across, and at Sunrise/Sunset when heading into high glare it'll shut off as well. Basically if on roads with poorer lane markings or in conditions making it so it'll struggle. You can enable normal cruise control that just holds speed when EyeSight is off, so that option is always available. Sometimes it reads road lines weird, like where a lane split starts or if there is something else there like crack sealant looking like a line. I'm not sure how newer models handle it since I think there have been improvements since mine. So it's important to remember it's only assistance and I constantly keep it monitored, especially if using auto cruise control in traffic and coming to a stop keeping my foot over the brake even though it's doing so on its own. It can be slow to accelerate as space opens up and it seems to only read what's immediately in front of you so it won't slow soon enough if traffic further down is slowing and instead brakes aggressively a little late for my liking. You can manipulate it a bit just by toggling the set speed up or down to make it do something sooner or later so I sometimes am always tweaking that as well as following distance settings. It follows too close in slow traffic but then too far in highway traffic sometimes regardless of min or max settings used. But I absolutely love it for my 45+ min commute each way that's mostly highway as well as the few longer trips I've taken. Often I can just set it at a good cruise speed an never touch any pedals for a long while. Getting your phone or other stuff setup to use with the steering wheel buttons or voice commands helps with the touch screen problems, but I'm not happy that buttons keep disappearing from vehicles and miss when I could easily reach something without looking and set it correctly. It took a while to get used to how Eyesight works and tweak settings, especially the beeps and warning sounds, to be how I like them (like there was this beep that the maps/gps would cause when I'm coming over a hill or towards a sharp turn that drove me crazy until I figured it out and turned it off). The five months of use I have so far have been great once comfortable with it.
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Mar 5, 2020 08:26
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Just want to follow up on this - thank you all for the replies!simplefish posted:My 2005 Outback (EZ30) smells like burning after driving. Well, not burning exactly, more like what I'd call "hot engine" but really strongly. Passengers have described it as "burning plastic" or "rubbery smell". First of all, this was a great shout: STR posted:
stevobob posted:One wheel will probably be distinguishably hotter than the others, if it's hot enough to generate a smell - putting your hand near each wheel after a drive will be enough to find that out. So as I've mentioned elsewhere, the RR hub was pulled up as being "a bit rough" on its rotation during annual certification. I had forgotten that there is a very quiet "tssk...tssk...tssk" sound that increases with road speed. It's so quiet it can only be heard with the window open and is quickly overpowered by wind noise even at like 10mph - and I haven't had my window open setting off lately so I'd forgotten about it. And sure enough, that hub is radiating noticeably more heat after a decent drive. ------ HOWEVER: While I haven't smelt hot brake in a long time, the smell is pretty surely what I'd call hot engine, and smells most strongly from the radiator grille or if I open the bonnet. I think it's coming from the left-front area of the engine but it's not precise. ----- There's seemingly a relay missing in the fuse box for SUB FAN 2 (or similar - will check tomorrow) and I can get a relay for cheap. 12v right, not 24v? ------ In case it's not the cooling fan but the belt or pulley (I would still really really appreciate an opinion on the engine whine I posted in the Streamable link) here's a picture of condition: Pulley too rusty?  Is it time to change the belt? The rubber looks a little cracked to me.  ---- stevobob posted:Anecdotal advice: check your front CV boots for splits and if they're spraying grease on your exhaust. I've had just that happen and it smells like burning plastic/rubber but only after driving long and fast enough for it to happen. Thanks for the CV boot suggestions and I'll check them in future, but they were checked at certification and are reportedly fine. ----- STR posted:If it's leaking from the rear crank seal, it's probably dripping right on the exhaust, and leaves no signs outside of the smell and an occasional puff of smoke. My 03 Outback does this, and does it really well. My transmission pan is also leaking... and you can see where wind has blown it right on the exhaust. There's no smoke, although it seems to accumulate a small puddle of water(? Colourless, odourless anyway) when parked. This is without running AC but otherwise seems like a smaller-than-normal AC condensation puddle. I don't have jackstands, just a small bottle jack and the standard scissor jack, so I'm hesitant to get under the car. --- Captain McAllister posted:Any power steering leaks? How's that fluid colour and level? bonelessdongs posted:Is your steering rack leaking onto the cats? I don't know if it's leaking. See above about the small liquid puddle though, but that's colourless. Level and colour are okay I think. Other than that I wouldn't know how to check. Only thing that might be steering(?) is a hissing sound for several seconds after engine start (no matter how long after fuel priming sound I turn the key) but not for the rest of the drive. ----- The only other minor thing would be that it shifts real heavy and real late on the first drive of the day - it really doesn't want to get out of 2nd until much higher revs than normal and when it finally shifts it really judders (again, only that strongly judders on 1st drive of the day). But then I know my diff and engine mount bushings are split so I imagine it's related to that. I only mention it for completeness: I can make it upshift with the sport mode shifter easily. simplefish fucked around with this message at 14:30 on Mar 8, 2020 |
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Mar 8, 2020 14:18
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Throwing this out to people who are much more familiar with Subaru design. Car clicks when turning right and accelerating. Hollow clunking sound from the right wheel area that varies in frequency with wheel speed. Other facts: Doesn't do it 4 wheels up on the lift, can turn, accelerate, decel and it's fine. In idle on the lift with wheels spinning freely the front right wheel does not spin much. It chugs forward a bit every now and then. If I manually spin it it will continue onwards for a bit, but eventually stop. I can stop that wheel with trivial force. There are only a few ft*lbs at most on that wheel at idle in 1st. Front left can also be stopped with my hands at idle. Takes a bit more force to decel the wheel, but once it's stopped I can hold it easily. Rear wheels I stopped at 'if I push harder and slip I'll end up in the OSHA thread' levels of force. Stuff ruled out (possibly): Replaced both front axles with aftermarket axles. There is a huge amount of aftermarket axle hate on the Internet. That's why I assumed I got a bum one and replaced it again. Replaced right axle a 2nd time. Replaced driveshaft. Transmission mount is good. Can the center diff make noise in only one direction? e: 170k mile 2006 Forester 5MT non-turbo FatCow fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Mar 8, 2020 |
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Mar 8, 2020 18:07
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That seems like classic wheel bearing to me. You don't get noise up on a lift because the bearing isn't loaded with weight.
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Mar 8, 2020 19:01
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Had the stub out of that wheel bearing. Wasn't crunchy at all when I hand spun it. Perfectly tight when the wheel is mounted and it makes no noise going straight. Other than 'I replaced the CV already and that corner of the car makes a lot of noise' nothing seems wrong with it. Wheel bearing isn't expensive to do, just looks like a pain in the rear end job since it's a press in. The more I work on this thing the more I realize that Subaru is basically the BMW of Japan when it comes to design.
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Mar 8, 2020 21:47
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On my 2002 WRX, the main symptoms I had with the wheel bearing going was noise relating to the hub moving in and out while cornering. Check for score marks on brake disk from the caliper bracket making contact with the surface of the disc during cornering. Do you notice that you have to apply brakes harder (or a second time) after cornering due to pad knockback? I could not feel ANYTHING wrong with the bearing when the car was unloaded. None of the traditional "wheel bearing going bad" symptoms were presented. No growling or anything. The only thing I had was noise during cornering (though mine was more of screech than a thump.)
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Mar 8, 2020 22:23
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EZ30 2005 Outback Welp, in addition to what's above, in the last 3 weeks I did 2500-ish miles, and it's eaten all the coolant down to what I assume is the the low level (where there is the corner on the fill bottle) The coolant was topped beforehand. Radiator cap looks clean, doesn't seem to be oil in the fill bottle. With the hot engine smell I'm getting a little concerned
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Mar 9, 2020 01:12
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simplefish posted:EZ30 2005 Outback Sorry to be the bearer of bad news - unless you have a leak from a hose, your headgaskets are beginning to give way. You can do right now is to bleed the system of air properly and put in some head gasket sealant, that'll actually keep it going for a while. In the end tho you are going to have to do something involving cylinder heads that lead to this.....  Being turned into this  I'm sure others might say dont panic, check for leaks (You should do that anyway) and do a gasses in coolant test but in the end, that's the classic symptoms of a EZ30 left side head gasket failing.
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Mar 9, 2020 01:59
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Loucks posted:This is the least AI post ever, but does anyone have opinions on the EyeSight adaptive cruise control / lane centering / collision avoidance system in the 2020 Outback? I love those features in the Tesla 3, but could use a more rugged AWD vehicle with more ground clearance and cargo space, and the $2500/$250 36mo base model lease is enticing. It’s a massive relief to be able to do long highway legs just resting my hand on the wheel and keeping an eye open for weirdness while the car steers and manages speed. We bought the 2020 outback a few months ago. I use the full ACC and lane keep every time I highway drive it. It’s definitely good enough to keep you in the lane if you play dumb and let go of the wheel but it’ll very obviously have a slow oscillation as it “bounces” from side to side, like 4 or 5 second period, but they also don’t falsely advertise that it drives itself like Tesla does. The normal lane departure mode without lane keep on is a bit “softer” if that makes sense. It’s very obvious lane keep is on just by feeling the wheel, but on a highway you can get used to it. I just drove 8 hours this weekend and I probably had it on for 7.5 of them. I’ve abused it a bit and turned it on for roads with traffic lights to see how it’ll do and it’ll follow a car slowing down to stopped perfectly fine, although you don’t really actually want to trust it like that normally. Don’t use it for coming up on stopped traffic unless you like some extra pucker factor. Or if you really want to see the emergency collision response go off. )
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Mar 9, 2020 02:35
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Gday subaru thread. Got a couple of questions relating to my 2000 Impreza RX that I hope you guys don"t mind answering? The car in question is a '00 2 ltr 5speed, a good chunk over 400,000 ks on it and its used mostly for bushbashing essentially, dodgy dirt tracks and dragging gear into old mine sites, things of that nature. I've been considering an engine swap, the old donk is getting a bit tired, compressions a touch low on cyl 4 etc. and I was reading a bout people doing fairly minor lifts using outback parts from the same era. What i wanted to know is if an engine swap from a 2.6 outback is worth considering? Im not particularly interested in turboing it, seems like id be better off upgrading to a rexxy if I wanted to do that, but if an NA 2.6 is a fairly simple swap, then from what I can see on ebay there's a few cheap parts cars around that give me a possible lift and a newer donk for about the same price as a donk from the wreckers. Also does anyone know the weight rating on those factory roof rails, I was thinking about fabbing up a roof basket for it and i wasn''t sure if they were more decorative than functional? Obligatory car pic:  
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Mar 9, 2020 02:40
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bend posted:Gday subaru thread. Got a couple of questions relating to my 2000 Impreza RX that I hope you guys don"t mind answering? Hardware-wise? Piece of piss. A EJ25 just flops right on in. Absolutle no brainer. Your issue will be wiring and ECU. Huge problem? Not really. I *think* they are both common coil so...... other than repinning some connectors and maybe adding a wire or two for newer emissions should be quite do-able with parts from Supercheap and a side by side wiring diagram
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Mar 9, 2020 03:37
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Hardware-wise? Piece of piss. A EJ25 just flops right on in. Absolutle no brainer. Beauty, thanks man. sounds like about what I expected, so its probably worth it with a bit of prior planning. Now just to find a parts car, and figure out how to stop the dog climbing the bloody thing so he can look over the back fence.
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Mar 9, 2020 04:28
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bend posted:Beauty, thanks man. sounds like about what I expected, so its probably worth it with a bit of prior planning. A 03/04 written off Forester would be almost exactly what you want to use as a donor, especially with the suspension raise.
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Mar 9, 2020 04:34
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:A 03/04 written off Forester would be almost exactly what you want to use as a donor, especially with the suspension raise. Even better thanks, that narrows it down a fair bit. Give me a hoy if you're in vic gold country one day and I'll stand a shout mate.
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Mar 9, 2020 04:51
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Sorry to be the bearer of bad news - unless you have a leak from a hose, your headgaskets are beginning to give way. You can do right now is to bleed the system of air properly and put in some head gasket sealant, that'll actually keep it going for a while. In the end tho you are going to have to do something involving cylinder heads that lead to this..... Well bugger. I thought as much. - Is there a particular way to check for leaks or test for gasses in the coolant? I'll try the head gasket repair additive, if it'll help. I've always been suspicious of them making things worse but I only need a few months more out of it. - What coolant does it take? I think I heard people saying mixing them clogs them up or something. - any thoughts on the belt condition? - these are the missing relays. I don't know what (FWD) means or if they're intentionally not there. It takes 12v relays right?   (Mmm electrical tape endcap on a wire)
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Mar 9, 2020 06:34
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If the car is an automatic, I would imagine the FWD fuse makes the car FWD.
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Mar 9, 2020 13:17
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A few weeks ago I posted to ask about the passenger window on my wife's Outback going into pinch protection every time it was rolled up. The only suggestions I got were to RTFM which I had already done repeatedly, so I spent some more time thinking about it. For those of you who were on the edge of your seats, the problem seems to be solved. I cleaned out the window channel with some mild soap and water. I didn't find anything gross in there and the window still rolled back down so I goobered it up good with some dry silicon lube and it seems to be reliably rolling up once more.
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Mar 9, 2020 16:49
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simplefish posted:- these are the missing relays. I don't know what (FWD) means or if they're intentionally not there. FWD is normally not there. If you're driving on a spare tire, you put the spare on the back, then throw one of the spare fuses from the lid (any of them will work) into the FWD slot. That unlocks the center diff so that it doesn't get damaged by driving on the smaller spare tire, also lights up an annoying red FWD light on the dash. Only works on automatics. No clue on the relays, maybe for options you don't have? One of those slots in the underdash fusebox doesn't even have wires in it. Remember the fuse and relay boxes are often used in multiple markets. So long as everything is working, don't worry about them.
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Mar 9, 2020 17:12
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Anyone know if the GG chassis changed in 2006/2007? Finding conflicting information regarding whether roof trim will fit from these in earlier GG models. I dont necessarily need clips to work, just the shape of the roof groove to be the same.
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Mar 9, 2020 19:57
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FogOgg posted:A few weeks ago I posted to ask about the passenger window on my wife's Outback going into pinch protection every time it was rolled up. The only suggestions I got were to RTFM which I had already done repeatedly, so I spent some more time thinking about it. I had the same issue whenever it would rain a bit. The dealer said it's a common issue as the pinch sensor seems to be suuuper sensitive. They did the exact same thing you did and now it's fine.
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Mar 9, 2020 21:50
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STR posted:
Thanks for the info on FWD 2 of the missing ones are Main Fan 2 and Sub Fan so with the hot engine smell and drinking coolant I think I'm going to throw relays in there. 12v not 24, right? simplefish fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Mar 9, 2020 |
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Mar 9, 2020 22:26
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Definitely 12V. You won't run into 24V on anything except diesel trucks. Gonna pic whore mine out.. Had some fog this morning when I left work, felt sexy with the hilariously misaimed fog lights, rear camber, and sagging rear suspension.  
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Mar 10, 2020 21:32
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simplefish posted:Thanks for the info on FWD Do your fans run? FogOgg posted:A few weeks ago I posted to ask about the passenger window on my wife's Outback going into pinch protection every time it was rolled up. The only suggestions I got were to RTFM which I had already done repeatedly, so I spent some more time thinking about it. Glad you got it fixed.
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Mar 10, 2020 21:38
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Charles posted:Do your fans run? I think so, but I'll double check tomorrow STR posted:Definitely 12V. You won't run into 24V on anything except diesel trucks. Thanks, and I really like that photo too Re: coolant It has luminous yellow stuff in it at the moment I just buy more luminous yellow stuff and it should be okay to top up with? simplefish fucked around with this message at 10:19 on Mar 11, 2020 |
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Mar 11, 2020 10:16
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I'm getting codes P2444 and P1410 on my Saabaru, which I guess means the secondary air pump valves are stuck open. I'd like to fix this the cheapest way possible, which I guess means block off plates and removing the codes from the ECU. Does anyone have a good walkthrough specifically for a 2006 WRX? I noticed they can vary a bit between years and WRX/STI so I'm a bit confused. What's the cheapest way to remove the code? I don't have an AccessPort or anything. Once I do that, would I still pass an OBD smog test? Thanks!
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Mar 11, 2020 23:27
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bull3964 posted:On my 2002 WRX, the main symptoms I had with the wheel bearing going was noise relating to the hub moving in and out while cornering. Check for score marks on brake disk from the caliper bracket making contact with the surface of the disc during cornering. Do you notice that you have to apply brakes harder (or a second time) after cornering due to pad knockback? Update: It wasn't the wheel bearing. But this time I was smart enough to get a video before putting the car back on the lift. You can hear it pretty clearly right at the beginning. My brain is screaming inner CV joint, but 2 bad ones in a row with the exact same noise? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLHcGIidcgM edit: outer CV joint. FatCow fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Mar 12, 2020 |
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Mar 12, 2020 00:09
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FatCow posted:Update: Where'd you get your replacement axles?
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Mar 12, 2020 01:15
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Local parts store. Advance I think.
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Mar 12, 2020 01:17
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I'm pretty wary of parts store axles. What do other people think? It's been a long time since I've had to do them.
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Mar 12, 2020 01:22
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I put some relays in It drained the battery in seconds, just about got it started though Next time I stopped it wouldn't start (10 min drive), so i took the relays out Same after that (again 10 min drive), was only stopped for 2 mins May be why the PO took them out? Let's see if my car starts tomorrow - I won't be trying that again! simplefish fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Mar 12, 2020 |
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Mar 12, 2020 04:22
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blk posted:I'm getting codes P2444 and P1410 on my Saabaru, which I guess means the secondary air pump valves are stuck open. You could do it with romraider, ecuflash and a tactrix if you know someone that knows how to use them. Fixed a lot in my stepmom's WRX with it. I don't use any Subaru forums so unless you know someone that can do it not sure where you could look unless you happen to live in or near CT where I could help
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Mar 12, 2020 04:23
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FatCow posted:Local parts store. Advance I think. New or reman? I have their new ones on my car, it finally got rid of the paint shaker. When I got it, it had one original with a shredded inner boot, and a reman Napa on the other side.
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Mar 12, 2020 08:43
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