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What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
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| Perennials! |
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142 | 20.91% |
| Annuals! |
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30 | 4.42% |
| Woody plants! |
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62 | 9.13% |
| Succulent plants! |
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171 | 25.18% |
| Tropical plants! |
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60 | 8.84% |
| Non-vascular plants are the best! |
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31 | 4.57% |
| Screw you, I'd rather eat them! |
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183 | 26.95% |
| Total: | 679 votes | ||
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It's too cold (and maybe wet) Oh 8b. Maybe your rhododendron's just the wrong variety? I'm in 8b and they generally do really well here. Many gardens have them. The local botanical garden even has a "rhododendron walk" with about 50 different kinds.
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Mar 10, 2020 22:21
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I don't know if cold hardiness tells the whole story or not with citrus. Just because a satsuma won't freeze there, I have no idea if a satsuma would like the cloudy, wet, cool PNW as much as southern California or the gulf coast. That’s a good point. Acid fruits like limes and lemons or yuzu and sudachi don’t require much heat to ripen. Despite being very cold hardy, kumquats do require notable amounts of heat. They’d have a better shot in the interior valleys than on the coast. Mandarin heat requirements vary. This page from Monterey Bay Nursery has a lot of good information about citrus, and of particular interest here are notes on how different cultivars ripen on the California coast. Satsumas are said to do well on the coast. Some mandarins like clementines and W. Murcott (California’s main commercial varieties) do not.
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Mar 10, 2020 22:47
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Found a cool shroom in my garden
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Mar 10, 2020 23:05
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Lead out in cuffs posted:Oh 8b. It is a Bibiani rhododendron iirc? I got it from the local botanical gardens plant sale that usually has well adapted stuff, but idk what it’s little deal is. I had it in the shade and it didn’t die but it didn’t really grow or bloom either so I moved it to a little more sun and now the leaves get scorched. I have tons of azaleas (evergreen indicas and deciduous) and they all do fine  I think our long hot summers are the problem, but the botanical gardens has some of the same variety. Theirs are planted on a NE slope and that probably helps. Mine is on flat ground so maybe it’s a drainage thing, but my soil is pretty well drained for the most part. Jestery posted:Found a cool shroom in my garden I don’t think you’ll like it as much when it opens up and reveals its stinkhorniness
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Mar 10, 2020 23:41
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It is a Bibiani rhododendron iirc? I got it from the local botanical gardens plant sale that usually has well adapted stuff, but idk what it’s little deal is. I had it in the shade and it didn’t die but it didn’t really grow or bloom either so I moved it to a little more sun and now the leaves get scorched. I have tons of azaleas (evergreen indicas and deciduous) and they all do fine Not super familiar with bibiani but when I got my catawbiense they told me to take care of it like it was a new plant for two full years before loving with it in any way, especially in terms of watering regularly and never pruning. So my impression was that rhodies likely do not tolerate aggravation very well at all. Thus I planted them and watered regularly but otherwise left alone. They didn’t really do poo poo the first year except for the blooms they already had from the growhouse and then had some dieback, second year they looked like pure poo poo and had like a single flower each. Now on year three were looking at multiple flowers per plant, everything looking stronger and more flush, they’re still a little stringy in growth habit but lots of nice new growth as well All this to say that at least for me that advice was right and that these things need serious patience to actually establish themselves. Moving them probably sucks rear end for the plant. Ymmv of course
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Mar 11, 2020 03:16
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Half of my apple trees are arriving tomorrow and I still haven’t put the drat trellis on my wall yet 
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Mar 11, 2020 03:17
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Killingyouguy! posted:Mostly herbs (I was doing really well at basil until it, too, grew mold), sometimes those dumb 'regrow vegetables from scraps!' lifehacks, all in pots in my apartment window sill bc I don't have a porch. Herbs in my experience very much love to be outside and heavily watered in good draining soil. Lots and lots of sunlight and water. What’s your setup like? Plants grow badass outside because we haven’t snatched them from their natural environment where they were evolved to live. Growing potted and inside plants is a testament to how tough they are; even insanely restricted and divorced from their traditional locale, they still manage to ball out Oil of Paris fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Mar 11, 2020 |
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Mar 11, 2020 03:25
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Wallet posted:I have more dumb plant questions for you, plant thread, because the entirety of my impractical plant knowledge came from three botany classes in college. That's definitely a Euphorbia, probably ingens. No idea about the Echeveria though - there's about a million hybrids and cultivars and heaps of them are poorly labelled.
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Mar 11, 2020 04:06
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the other day. 
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Oil of Paris posted:
All the rhododendrons (and maybe even most of the heath family?) except maybe indica azaleas really don’t seem to like being hosed with. I’ve lost more container grown native azaleas than I think anything else, and moving them never seems to work well. It’s funny how some plants just don’t care and you can rip a rosemary out of the ground with a truck and stick it in any old hole and it’s happy but no amount of babying will let you move a sourwood. Killingyouguy! posted:Mostly herbs (I was doing really well at basil until it, too, grew mold), sometimes those dumb 'regrow vegetables from scraps!' lifehacks, all in pots in my apartment window sill bc I don't have a porch.
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Mar 11, 2020 04:48
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Oil of Paris posted:Herbs in my experience very much love to be outside and heavily watered in good draining soil. Lots and lots of sunlight and water. What’s your setup like? Unfortunately I do not have an outside - no porch, no backyard, not allowed to hang anything on the outside of my windows. Like I said, I've just had pots on my windowsill. I only have south facing windows, most of them are directly above the radiator, and I'm in Toronto if that helps give an idea of the climate. I'm not sure if any other details are important re: 'setup'
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Mar 11, 2020 12:09
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In the process of getting quotes for a new fence for my yard. Apparently some of my homework pre-fence is going to involve cutting down all of the old lilac trees/bushes we have growing now along one side of our property. Any recommendations on nice looking, bee-friendly, hippy/dippy trees our shrubs we could plant to replace the lilacs once the new fence is in?
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Mar 11, 2020 14:12
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Maybe this is a stupid question but how do you know when the last frost will be? Do you just guess and if it happens to frost again you cut your losses? It seems to me like if you wait to be really sure it'll be too hot by the time you're planting anything
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Mar 11, 2020 14:27
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Killingyouguy! posted:Maybe this is a stupid question but how do you know when the last frost will be? Do you just guess and if it happens to frost again you cut your losses? It seems to me like if you wait to be really sure it'll be too hot by the time you're planting anything Its always a guess. You can use weather almanac and other sources to get a pretty good estimate, but every once in a while you'll get a late frost that kills everything. Or you may plant a month early and get lucky. I'm in zone 4 and generally aim for the beginning of May for my transplants.
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Mar 11, 2020 14:31
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Killingyouguy! posted:Maybe this is a stupid question but how do you know when the last frost will be? Do you just guess and if it happens to frost again you cut your losses? It seems to me like if you wait to be really sure it'll be too hot by the time you're planting anything Google 'first/last frost [my location]' and you'll find a bunch, or consult an old fashioned farmer's almanac. This one works for Canada: https://www.almanac.com/gardening/frostdates The dates given are basically averages based on past weather data, and usually they will have a range. For instance, for my area there's a 90% chance of frost before February 9th and a only 10% chance of a frost after March 21st, with the average last frost being February 28th. If I wanted to be really safe planting tender stuff, I'd wait until after march 21, but I can probably get away with planting after Feb. 28th, especially if it has been a mild winter. A late freeze is a possibility and I'd be scrambling to cover all my stuff up-for a farmer that can mean replanting. Soil temperature is a different thing. Some crops/plants need warm soil for the seeds to germinate, some need cool soil, and some won't grow well if the soil is too hot/cold.
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Mar 11, 2020 14:40
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 New tree! Coast redwood. Hopefully it lives forever and becomes unreasonably large sometime long after I've sold this house or died.
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Mar 11, 2020 18:41
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Apart from the usual container annuals, this year I have to find room for: - an Itoh peony, somewhere with more light than the almost zero it gets currently  - a 21-year-old hydrangea that's been planted in my parents' garden but is technically mine - and a second blueberry, having just discovered I need two to get any fruiting action I also need to do a little more research into plants that love wet feet and will help keep wet soil from falling apart, since I discovered a corner had washed right out of one of our raised beds, near the rain barrel. 
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Mar 11, 2020 20:19
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Soooooon.... (I think)
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Mar 11, 2020 20:44
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elgarbo posted:That's definitely a Euphorbia, probably ingens. Thanks for the confirmation. I didn't expect anyone would actually be able to ID the hybrid but I don't suppose it matters too much.
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Mar 11, 2020 20:59
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How long can (I assume dormant) bare-root and potted trees survive without being planted? My espalier trees just came in today and I still need to finish setting up my trellis. EDIT: And another question, so I don’t have to doublepost. We just had some guys replace our fence out where these trees are gonna go, which is where my ground cover is, but I never cleaned up the animal poo poo that was lying around out there beforehand, and apparently the fence dudes stepped in it and tracked it everywhere all over the cover. Now I don’t want to walk around there cuz I’m paranoid it’s gonna get on my shoes. And just because poo poo grosses me extremely the gently caress out and I’m probably weirder about it than most people. This is a dumb question, but is there a way to sanitize ground cover that may have cat poo poo all over it? Maybe with a sprayer? I’d like to avoid buying all new ground cover if I can. I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 06:14 on Mar 12, 2020 |
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Mar 11, 2020 22:43
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Killingyouguy! posted:Unfortunately I do not have an outside - no porch, no backyard, not allowed to hang anything on the outside of my windows. Like I said, I've just had pots on my windowsill. I only have south facing windows, most of them are directly above the radiator, and I'm in Toronto if that helps give an idea of the climate. I'm not sure if any other details are important re: 'setup' Yeah my bad, I had read that but wasn’t sure if you have a grow light or something that could provide a lot of extra light, which in my opinion is probably the root of your issue BaseballPCHiker posted:Any recommendations on nice looking, bee-friendly, hippy/dippy trees our shrubs we could plant to replace the lilacs once the new fence is in? Oh man so many. What’s the sun exposure like in the area you’ll be planting in?
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Mar 12, 2020 10:47
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I. M. Gei posted:How long can (I assume dormant) bare-root and potted trees survive without being planted? Bare root plants need to covered with dirt ASAP whether in a pot or the ground, otherwise they’ll dry out and “yeah, rip.” Potted trees will be fine pretty indefinitely until they get root bound and choke themselves out. And just spray the cat poo poo off of the ground cover with a hose rofl, you’re being very extra about encountering poo poo in the outside world
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Mar 12, 2020 11:16
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Oil of Paris posted:Oh man so many. What’s the sun exposure like in the area you’ll be planting in? They line the western side of my property and for the most part get good sun. A couple of mildly shady spots due to a neighboring ash and maple tree. It'll suck to tear them out. The birds really loved using them as cover when going to and from my feeder.
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Mar 12, 2020 13:30
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BaseballPCHiker posted:They line the western side of my property and for the most part get good sun. A couple of mildly shady spots due to a neighboring ash and maple tree. Alright I meant to make a big list last night but ended up drinking wine on the porch and talking plant stuff with a buddy since poo poo is FINALLY blooming, so here’s my starter list from phone, I’ll go back and edit in actual scientific names and other selections later when it’s not such a bitch to look them up and I’m not just going from memory. Forgot to ask your zone but most of these should live unless you’re somewhere crazy. Tried to think mostly of plants that will at least be somewhat similar to the bushing nature of the lilacs: Azalea (native deciduous if you want to be cool) Oakleaf hydrangea Butterfly bush (sterile varieties only) Red buckeye/painted buckeye Viburnum plicatum Dogwood Quince Fothergilla Camellia japonica (see the ultra post a couple pages back for more details) Rhododendron if there’s a real shady spot Spirea Mahonia in shady spot Sweet shrub Chaste tree Witchhazel in shady spot Also supplement those woody plants with flowering perennials, that way you’ve always got some interest with new stuff going on and flowers to feed those pollinators: Coneflower Joe Pye Weed Lavender Baptisia (insanely good pick) Creeping phlox Salvia Speedwell Balloon flower Hellebores in the shady spot Bee balm Bachelor button (this is a legit weed so beware) Peony Astilbe Cup flower Guara Oil of Paris fucked around with this message at 11:15 on Mar 13, 2020 |
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Mar 13, 2020 11:06
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Oil of Paris posted:
There are some reeeaaaaallllllyyyy pretty improved varieties of calycanthus/sweetshrub that have yellow flowers. My botanical gardens has some, but I've never been able to find them for sale locally. Oil of Paris posted:Baptisia (insanely good pick)  gonna have to try some. Just met my new neighbor and he is the county extension agent for residential home gardens and teaches the master gardeners so now all my questions will have answers!
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Mar 13, 2020 14:33
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Oil of Paris posted:Words Holy hell thanks for the effort post! That gives me a lot of plants to look up this weekend. Will make the sting of pulling the lilacs out a whole lot easier to deal with knowing something else cool is going in.
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Mar 13, 2020 18:04
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Great native recommendations, but I don't like mahonia. It's invasive in the SE US anyway.
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Mar 13, 2020 18:52
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Despite thinning a couple of times, my wildflower bed is still SUPER thick. It looks like I'm growing a lawn out here. I'm starting to worry because the places where the seedlings are not as thick, the plants are starting to get noticeably bigger. Should I keep doing modest thinning on this bed or just go buck wild and rip a bunch out? Let it ride? Goal is still to be in full flower in 2 months.
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Mar 14, 2020 00:35
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cheese posted:Despite thinning a couple of times, my wildflower bed is still SUPER thick. It looks like I'm growing a lawn out here. I'm starting to worry because the places where the seedlings are not as thick, the plants are starting to get noticeably bigger. Should I keep doing modest thinning on this bed or just go buck wild and rip a bunch out? Let it ride? Goal is still to be in full flower in 2 months. Yup you need to thin. It's absolutely the hardest thing in the world to do because all those could be a nice plant, but if you don't then none of them will. I would guess at the moment aim for 2-3" between plants, saving the strongest and largest looking seedlings. In another week, see how things look, but you will probably need to do another thinning. I'd guess ~6"-12" between plants is where you want to wind up depending on what is in there. E: this depends alot on what sort of effect you are going for. It is definitely seeded too heavily, but if you want a more natural meadow look, leave it thicker (>6" between plants?). You will get smaller plants with fewer and smaller flowers all packed together, but that may be exactly what you want-a carpet of green with some flowers. If you want the same area to have a few nice tall plants with bigger flowers that will look a bit more like a garden, thin it more heavily (6-12"+ between plants?) Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Mar 14, 2020 |
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Mar 14, 2020 01:57
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Thanks for the advice, yeah I'm definitely going for the overgrown look. Its going to be my daughters "fairy garden" after all  Ideally I don't see any soil and its just a jungle of different green leaves with all kinds of different flowers shooting out all over the place.Also this is just one corner of a 6'x4' bed and I don't see myself on my hands and knees sorting through every seedling. I'll likely just start by making a checkerboard of empty soil by pinching out clumps of plants and then just sort of thin from there? The other issue is that its got like 12 different seeds in the mix and I don't want to end up leaving only seedlings from a few varieties. Edit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVhEB_8r5XA&t=164s This video was sort of part of my inspiration, I can't leave them that thick though? His seedlings look super thick. cheese fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Mar 14, 2020 |
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Mar 14, 2020 02:05
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cheese posted:Thanks for the advice, yeah I'm definitely going for the overgrown look. Its going to be my daughters "fairy garden" after all
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Mar 14, 2020 02:23
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Fitzy Fitz posted:Great native recommendations, but I don't like mahonia. It's invasive in the SE US anyway. I hear that its invasive but I just can't figure out why we worry about it. It doesn't spread rapidly, looks very cool, and doesn't really seem to displace anything native. Doesn't even get very big. The most negative thing I've heard is that deer can't eat it... Boo.Fuckin.Hoo.
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Mar 14, 2020 03:25
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:There's no right answer! Pump enough fertilizer and water in there and you might could leave it as thick as it currently is. If you just start randomly grabbing seedlings and pulling them out it'll go faster than you think. I've had zinnias come up almost that thick and been too lazy to thin them and still gotten zinnia flowers, they just were half the the height and the flowers were half the size they normally are. Your daughter will think they are cool and fun whether they are flowers an inch across or 6" across. Tiny child fingers are also very nimble at thinning seedlings, and the earlier you start them playing in the dirt the better, IMO, plus she'll probably think it's fun and be invested in it. Let some go to seed and collect the seeds for next year's garden too!
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Mar 14, 2020 04:09
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Oil of Paris posted:I hear that its invasive but I just can't figure out why we worry about it. It doesn't spread rapidly, looks very cool, and doesn't really seem to displace anything native. Doesn't even get very big. The most negative thing I've heard is that deer can't eat it... Boo.Fuckin.Hoo. It's not the worst, but I have seen whole thickets of it in the woods here, as dense as privet or elaeagnus.
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Mar 14, 2020 16:42
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Is there anything similar to a purple heart/wandering Jew that can survive a frost while in a hanging pot?
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Mar 14, 2020 17:52
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Fitzy Fitz posted:It's not the worst, but I have seen whole thickets of it in the woods here, as dense as privet or elaeagnus. I haven't ever seen escaped mahonia here, but privet, cogongrass, chinese tallow, chinaberry and camphor laurel can gently caress right off. It gets juuuust cold enough here that chinaberry and camphor laurel never get really big and potentially pretty, but still mature enough to seed in like crazy. I wish camellias would naturalize and become invasive.
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Mar 14, 2020 18:55
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Ailanthus altissima, or as they call it in its native land, “foul-smelling tree”, is one of the worst.
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Mar 14, 2020 22:53
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Platystemon posted:Ailanthus altissima, or as they call it in its native land, “foul-smelling tree”, is one of the worst. lol yes, also known as the the equally fitting "ghetto palm." There are some very funny and informative articles out there about it
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Mar 15, 2020 01:05
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Platystemon posted:Ailanthus altissima, or as they call it in its native land, “foul-smelling tree”, is one of the worst.
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Mar 15, 2020 01:53
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gently caress CHINESE TALLOW INFINITELY Hey do you want to ruin a wetland with trees that are poisonous to nearly everything? Here's how! Bradford pear to a lesser extent.
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Mar 15, 2020 02:05
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California has feral figs, Hawai‘i has feral cattley guava (spread by feral pigs), and of course kudzu swallowed the South. The most horrible thing about A. altissima is that it’s everywhere. It’s invasive everywhere from Maine to Afghanistan. e: Callery pears have weak branching structure and thorns and they smell like spunk, but at least they’re pears. They make decent lumber if you can find one large enough, which absolutely cannot be said for most invasives. If there’s a callery pear growing in a spot you wouldn’t mind having a good tree in, behead it and graft edible pear scions to its neck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ju1j7r5f1XY Platystemon fucked around with this message at 11:25 on Mar 15, 2020 |
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Mar 15, 2020 02:05
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