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I use a silicone spray lubricant for my bike locks and it seems to work really well.
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Mar 9, 2020 19:52
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| # ? May 16, 2024 22:33 |
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I have a keyless ignition 
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Mar 9, 2020 20:43
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right arm posted:I have a keyless ignition mine has that and push to start.
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Mar 9, 2020 22:16
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Every bike has push to start FYI
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Mar 9, 2020 23:20
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Every bike has push to start FYI It's a KTM, that button doesn't work.
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Mar 10, 2020 00:05
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cursedshitbox posted:It's a KTM, that button doesn't work. Right, like he said, push to start
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Mar 10, 2020 01:32
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That was the joke I was trying to make 
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Mar 11, 2020 13:53
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Every bike has push to start FYI
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Mar 11, 2020 15:13
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Every bike has push to start FYI But only some bikes have push to finish.
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Mar 11, 2020 21:47
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goddamnedtwisto posted:But only some bikes have push to finish. Hahahaha, nice one, Punchy
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Mar 11, 2020 22:04
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Coydog posted:Hahahaha, nice one, Punchy
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Mar 12, 2020 03:16
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Suppose I have heated grips wired to the battery, as well as a GPS adapter and a adapter for my heated gloves. I.e. 3 things with eyelets, wired to the battery. Suppose I add another eyeletted thing, i.e. a eyelet cable for a lithium jump starter such as https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071F36LXZ/ref=emc_b_5_i If I jump start my bike via the lithium jump starter wired to the battery with the eyelet cable, with the heated grips, gps adapter, heated gloves adapter also wired into the battery, will that cause my any damage to the GPS adapter/heated grips/heated gloves adapter?
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Mar 16, 2020 20:57
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Only if they're switched on. If their circuits are open it'll be fine. So in your case, switch off the heated grips and make sure your GPS and heated gloves aren't plugged in if you're going to do a jump start.
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Mar 16, 2020 21:37
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Renaissance Robot posted:Only if they're switched on. If their circuits are open it'll be fine. So in your case, switch off the heated grips and make sure your GPS and heated gloves aren't plugged in if you're going to do a jump start. Perfect, thank you.
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Mar 16, 2020 21:49
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Are electrical connectors which OEMs use typically unobtanium, or is there some standard I can look up? I want to add a brake light modulator on my '18 Ninja 650 but I'd rather not hack up the wiring harness going to the tail light. If I can get a male and female connector of the appropriate kinds I can just add the modulator inline and pass through the third daytime running lead. Partzilla doesn't seem to show it as a separate unit, and even if it did I suspect it would just show the whole assembly and not the connectors.
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Mar 16, 2020 21:51
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theyre all industry-standard stuff, its just a matter of knowing what they're called
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Mar 16, 2020 22:33
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What do you guys think? Looks pretty close to Sumitomo MT 090 3C (based on the equivalent Sumitomo part number from cycleterminal.com)  http://www.cycleterminal.com/mt-series-090.html Probably worth a gamble at five bucks.
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Mar 17, 2020 00:21
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send it
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Mar 17, 2020 00:26
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There is a company called Eastern Beaver run by an American in Japan who specializes in that stuff.
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Mar 17, 2020 02:38
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Tried replacing my final drive today. Got the sprockets on and the old chain off fine. I split the new chain fine and got the faceplate of the link on fine. It's just the riveting that's gone messed up. Despite following the instructions I bent the tool out of shape after flaring the pins no more than 0.1mm It's definitely the correct tool for the correct kind of chain, I bought both from the same brand and size (DID). Any advice? I don't fancy a split link/ clip link because I don't trust those, especially having gone down a tooth on the front sprocket. I just wondered if people had suggestions or maybe could point me to a 530 did style riveter that doesn't suck and won't break the bank.
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Mar 19, 2020 20:49
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Azza Bamboo posted:Tried replacing my final drive today. This is why I haven't messed with chain replacement yet, and won't until I can actually do it with someone that I trust knows what they're doing. It's just something that if I mess up, I can see myself being cut in half lengthwise as the chain flies off the front sprocket, and my two halves go flying in separate directions in slow motion, both halves giving the same thumbs up the terminator did at the end of T2.
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Mar 19, 2020 21:15
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Welcome to the club. Chain riveters that are both cheap and good don't exist. Either throw up your hands and pay someone to do it like I did, or commit to spending ~£100 on an actually good heavy duty riveter and at least two more master links.
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Mar 19, 2020 21:17
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Renaissance Robot posted:Welcome to the club. the DID riveter IS a heavy duty riveter Azza Bamboo posted:Tried replacing my final drive today. I used it on an EK 525 zx ring chain and it worked perfectly, but hopefully you bought the tool from amazon so you can return it lol, but if not, this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isWYsAnZ4jQ is the video I used to figure out how to rivet my chain. if you didn't buy from amazon originally, then just use their Tool Rental Service™ and don't gently caress it up this time. I followed the steps exactly in that video and no issues. didn't grind the rivets and also removed a couple links as well with no problems right arm fucked around with this message at 02:18 on Mar 20, 2020 |
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Mar 19, 2020 21:49
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The tool I broke looks just like that one. I used it like he did. You know the big U shaped backpiece that rides in the grooves of the other piece? The U shaped piece bent such that its walls came closer together. The rails bent out. Now they only barely hold on to each other by about a millimetre, and pop out under load. I tried beating the tool back into shape and forced a wedge through the U shaped piece to get it to come back apart. I even heated it in a fire. It just really likes its bent shape, though. Azza Bamboo fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Mar 19, 2020 |
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Mar 19, 2020 22:16
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You've done something wrong there, that tool should be much stronger than the rivet pins. You only need to flare them out a little bit, got a picture of the results?
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Mar 20, 2020 01:09
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yeah check your rivet flaring against the manual here: https://images-eu.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61gRqyGylaS.pdf I just eyeballed mine tho since it flared my rivets easily e: also looks like they upgraded the pin not too long ago. mine I used like a month ago had the ring
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Mar 20, 2020 02:29
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I checked them with a caliper gauge. One has increased by 0.15mm and the other by less than 0.1mm.
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Mar 20, 2020 09:47
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I don't have pictures of the bike. My phone doesn't reach where a cable can't reach now that its battery is dead, and you can take that as an indication of how much money I have to fix these kinds of problems. Luckily the return address on the tool itself is from an industrial unit in this town. They've said I can pay for my own postage if I don't jump through some hoops to use their obscure courier, so I'm delivering this in person.
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Mar 20, 2020 15:25
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Whaaaaaaaat is this Honda? I spotted it unceremoniously parked in someone’s lawn and had to take a pic. It appears to be a longitudinal V4? Like a CX500 except more modern and a 4-cylinder? I cannot for the life of me think of what this is  
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Mar 20, 2020 19:10
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Whaaaaaaaat is this Honda? I spotted it unceremoniously parked in someone’s lawn and had to take a pic. It appears to be a longitudinal V4? Like a CX500 except more modern and a 4-cylinder? Looks like a 90s ST1100 minus some bodywork.
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Mar 20, 2020 19:20
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That is definitely an st1100/pan euro. Rest assured you're missing out on nothing, in typical Honda fashion any potentially interesting features have been surgically excised and you're left with a heavy, slow, pig-handling bike that's an absolute oval office to work on and has a cambelt setup for some hosed up reason. They also have really small bars, similar to the k1000, ostensibly because they're a 'sport' tourer which is both hysterically ridiculous and makes an already clumsy bike incredibly difficult to manage at low speeds.
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Mar 20, 2020 19:28
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In checking HenryJ's work I happens across this thing. Oh my.
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Mar 20, 2020 19:33
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Just picturing that fork smashing into the stops at the mere hint of the terrible linked brakes being used, the bike wobbling around gormlessly when you ask it to do anything beyond slow uptight acceleration.
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Mar 20, 2020 19:37
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Why is the bottom end on longitudinal twins so drat huge? Is it because the crank runs into the tranny into the final drive and it's just all housed together?
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Mar 20, 2020 20:06
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Why is the bottom end on longitudinal twins so drat huge? Is it because the crank runs into the tranny into the final drive and it's just all housed together? Pretty much. The clutch is at the front I think, just behind the headers. So it goes to the front, then to the back. And after the gearbox it needs an offset for the prop shaft, probably with some reduction thrown in for good measure. Lot of stuff going on.
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Mar 20, 2020 20:18
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Yeah, transverse engines just make infinitely more sense for a motorcycle.
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Mar 20, 2020 20:42
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Oh in my head I just always assumed ST1100’s were I4’s because that would just make sense 
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Mar 20, 2020 23:13
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Oh in my head I just always assumed ST1100’s were I4’s because that would just make sense Did you not see the name on the tank? I knew they were V4s but I always assumed they were inline, like the VFR.
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Mar 20, 2020 23:20
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I had always heard the polar opposite about the at/pan. Even from people who had them in other countries. I've heard nothing except them being angelic bikes that the owners have more than one of. They show me pictures of their special edition or whatever. This is the first time I hear anything bad about them but maybe it's a cult bike that you love or hate. If that custom St had upright bars and maybe a little less nonsense going on, id happily ride it.
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Mar 20, 2020 23:45
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| # ? May 16, 2024 22:33 |
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Did you not see the name on the tank? No, the pictures I got were the best angles I could get. There were trees on one side and a shed on the other
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Mar 21, 2020 00:12
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