Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Zuul the Cat
Dec 24, 2006

Grimey Drawer
Finally got my hands on some Scale 75 golds, so I finished up my Necron Overlord & Cryptek.





Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Serenade posted:

Ebay salvage is a mixed bag. You will get models for cheaper, but they may be assembled in a non ideal way. I hate the ebay Khador Man-o-Wars I'm working on now: they're missing a few parts, some parts are on backwards, there are no sub assemblies, there are mold and glue lines, etc.

But Ebay salvage is a great way to overcome fear of failure from painting. You don't have to worry about perfection if it's already compromised and cheap. These man-o-wars will never be perfect, so I can just attack them. :justpost: but just paint.

Yeah, I get most of my models from ebay, and its usually fine. I'm on a Malifaux streak, and they are generally mono-pose models. I dont particularly enjoy putting together monopose models. Posable kits I like fine, theres at least a bit of creativity and decision making, and you usually have enough bits that you can not worry too much about your conversions; If you try and cut/resculpt amodel and it looks poo poo, you have another half dozen pairs of legs or whatever you can use instead. But putting together a model which only fits together one way for me is kind of a chore I put up with to get to the painting stage I enjoy.

Buying off ebay I can get models that someone has already put together and, if I'm lucky, undercoated. For cheaper than buying the models new. Its like someone is paying me for them to do the bit I dont enjoy! I'll sometimes buy painted models and strip them back, but only if they are fairly cheap (and I never buy models which are already painted better than I can do myself. Would just seem wrong somehow.).

But occasionally stuff has arrived and the seller has done something weird to them that I didnt notice because it wasnt mentioned in the description and I'm not necessarily familiar enough with the figure to spot it in the photo. Nothing really unfixable, but sometimes aggravating. I mentioned previously the figure where the bottom half of her trenchcoat had been repurposed as a bolero cape. I got a Seamus crew* and the main guy comes with a doctors bag with tentacles coming out of it holding a bone saw. The seller, for reasons best known to themselves, had trimmed the tentacles off, glued the bonesaw to the side of the bag, and then glued another figure (the Copycat killer who is posed balancing on the blade of an oversized pair of scissors) balancing on the bag. Also he'd managed to glue a figures hand on upside down. All totally fixable with a knife, some patience and a tiny bit of green stuff, but annoying none the less. Oh, and I have a rasputina from ebay where it looks like she has no fingers on one hand because the seller didnt realise that hand was supposed to be glued to the underside of her collar and left a big gap revealing the squared off stump. But that was part of a huge lot I got for very cheap, so I'm not that bothered. I'll eventually either give her a new hand from another figure, attempt to model some fingers from green stuff or (most likely) cut off the arm and reattach at the proper angle then fill the new gaps.

So yeah, usually fine, but do give the photos a proper look if you dont want to have to fix someone elses mistakes!

*He'd also undercoated in bone then given the minis a sepia wash. Which was fine, it took basecoats okay and everything, but its still weird, right? It gave them a kind of cool scrimshaw look, and I kind of wondered if he just hated painting and thought "at least this looks stylized rather than unpainted", or if it was just a light undercoat with a quick wash to make sure he could see all the details before painting.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

Slimnoid posted:

That marble looks so good. How'd you do it?

Airbrush uneven medium to very dark blues in blotchy patterns. Stretch out a used dryer sheet over that surface after pulling the dryer sheet apart a bit to leave gaps as big as you want the white to be. Tape securely, needs to be flush. Spray a light grey over everything. Spray a white over everything but more focused to the gaps centre. LET DRY or it will smear when you pull off the sheet.

Groetgaffel
Oct 30, 2011

Groetgaffel smacked the living shit out of himself doing 297 points of damage.

Max Wilco posted:

So while I'm waiting for the weather to warm up so I can keep the window open (to ventilate the room when assembling minis) and working up the ambition to continue painting the Skitarii, I thought to come up with a set of goals or a roadmap of things of different things I want to try with mini painting in the future.

[list]
[*]Buy & learn how to use a airbrush: A few pages back, I was asking about airbrushes, and I was thinking if when things calm down, I'd order a compressor an a Patriot 105.
You're in luck with this, goonhammer just recently put up an article for how to get started with airbrushing.

https://www.goonhammer.com/the-fabricator-general-getting-started-with-aibrushing-the-basic-set-up-and-equipment/

Been contemplating getting an airbrush setup myself for years, and this looks idiot proof enough that I might take the plunge soon.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(
Another thing, x-ing from aos thread.

Harvey Mantaco posted:

Finished my lizardman pylon:




Big Ink
Jun 26, 2006
[img]https://forumimages.somethingawful.com/images/newbie.gif[/img]

Decorus posted:

-snip-

Imperial fleet
Mars, Dictator, Tyrant/Dominator, Gothic, 2 Dauntless, 3 Firestorm, 3 Sword, 3 Cobra


Up next is battleships, transports and more Chaos escorts.

Where are the lance batteries? Also please tell me they made an announcement I just can't find.

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Slimnoid posted:

That marble looks so good. How'd you do it?

Looking at it, my guess is drier sheets and either rattlecan or airbrush.

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...

Aniodia posted:


Other Brands - I've used P3, they definitely have some off-beat colors that aren't super easy to match in other lines. Stuff like Bloodstone, a nice chestnut brown that, when separated from sitting on a wet palette for too long, has some green in it. Can't find a good swap for it for the life of me. They are designed for two-brush blending, though, which means they'll tend to be a little thinner right out of the pot (though not as thin as airbrush-specific paints). Scale 75 I've heard is good, but definitely had some poo poo recently where they kinda totally ended up not hiding their power level and outed themselves as wehraboos. Like sure, they quickly backpedaled, but even still, not the greatest look, so that could very well be a dealbreaker. I would recommend checking out Warcolours once the whole Cornholio virus poo poo passes and travel/shipping isn't hella hosed, but I know they do more of a gel medium than acrylic, so while neat it's definitely something new to get used to. Reaper is also nice, because they do something similar to GW with their Triads, in that they pair three colors together that are likely to be a base, mid-tone and highlight without having to fart around and figure it out yourself.

I remember hearing about the wehraboo thing (couldn't remember for sure if it was Scale75 or another company). It's not a deal-breaker for me; not saying that what they had planned was right, but if the paints work well, and there are colors I see in a tutorial or something that I like, I'm not adverse to picking them up. On the other hand, if it's considered verboten to support them, then I can continue to not buy their paints as I have been. Really, the only thing I vaguely remember hearing about Scale75 is that it has something of a learning curve or that they were a little more difficult to work with, but I can't remember what it was exactly.

The Reaper Triad sets sound pretty nice. P3 I think mainly interested me because it was one of the few (popular) brands that use pots instead of eyedropper bottles. With all three, I'd need to take a look online to get an idea of what the colors are like, and what I think I might want. For the most part, when I buy paint, it's through MiniatureMarket, so my selection is dependent on what they have in stock.

Aniodia posted:

Kitbashing - Do it up. There's all kinds of cool modifications you can do, given a good hobby knife, some green stuff, and a bit of ingenuity.

Only issue I have is coming up with how to do it. One idea I had recently was figuring out how to convert Cataphractii and Tartaros Terminator armor to have a Chaos-style. I tried searching to see if anyone else had tried this, but got no results.

The other was taking a head from the Warriors of Chaos set and combining it with a Chaos Lord to replicate the look of Araghast the Pillager from Dawn of War 2. I actually did find an example of that:

Found this in image results from DeviantArt, but the uploader, 'LordNemeroth', closed the account, so I can't link to it directly.
However the helmets don't seem to quite match anything from the Warriors of Chaos kit, making me think this was custom-sculpted or something.

Aniodia posted:

3D Printing - I just had a fleet of High Elf boats for Man o'War 3d-printed out of resin for me by fellow goon Madness and his company, and for that whole shebang (15 boats in total, plus masts/sails) and shipping across the US it only cost me $55. If you're in the US, I'd definitely shoot him a PM and see if you guys could work something out for the stuff you're looking for.

Serenade posted:

3D printing is an entire hobby of it's own. You can def do it, but it's not a painless process. I've had a resin 3d printer for a few months. Though I am pleased with results already, a lot of the time has been designing and refining good, reusable parts and bases. Putting in supports will always take longer than you think. There's also a whole thread about 3d printers.

Well, the other issue (?) is that some of stuff I've thought maybe isn't possible with a 3D printer, either because of detail loss or other issues. However, that's something suited for the 3D printing thread.

The other is that in some cases, I might have to learn 3D modeling myself in order to make something specific, and that's a whole skillset on its own. Again, though, probably something I should ask about in the other thread, and as whole, it's something that I think is still a ways off.

Aniodia posted:

Forgeworld - On the other hand, we have FW. Like, not gonna lie while some of the models that come out of FW are cool as gently caress, I've actually seen better quality control from recasters than FW. If you do still want to pull the trigger, remember to wash every part before starting work on it (gets rid of mold release agents, as well as whatever else might've found its way onto the parts), and try not to dry-sand or file resin if at all possible. :siren: Breathing resin dust is NO loving JOKE, and will seriously gently caress your lungs up. :siren: Scrape moldlines with a hobby knife, or if you do need to sand/file, do it submerged fully in a tub of water.

:stare: Yikes, that's scary. I'll be sure to be careful with that.

I recall someone complaining about FW quality being kind of poor. Recasters, I admit, I'm interested in. I know they aren't legit, but in an attempt to not break the bank with dozens of mini purchases, I've tried to ignore GW's dumb "Made to Order, Limited Time" reprints of old models. However, I really wanted to get the models of the old Chaos Sorcers they did a while, and my thought was maybe recasters were the way to go.

Booley posted:

You can also just wear the same mask you have for airbrushing and then clean it up.

That sounds like a good idea, but the problem is that I don't have one the heavy-duty respirators suited for airbrushing; just the white, disposable ones you get in a two-pack. As to getting one, well...ordering one now is probably impossible (hell, ordering anything mini-painting related right now is not really viable.)

Torquemada
Oct 21, 2010

Drei Gläser
Yeah, great times if you have the equipment and a backlog of minis, terrible if you’re just getting into it.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


i have 3 bloodbowl teams and a few 40k orks still in boxes, and christ knows how many models that are about 2/3 done that honestly i might strip and start again

Moongrave
Jun 19, 2004

Finally Living Rent Free
Can't wait to get Covid and be able to actually sit down and do this entire slaves to darkness box

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...

Torquemada posted:

Yeah, great times if you have the equipment and a backlog of minis, terrible if you’re just getting into it.

What's worse if you have some models to do, but you're still required to go to work anyway. :sigh:

Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

Fourth warband done, the Skellingtons.



Real fun models to paint!

Major Spag
Nov 4, 2012
xpost from heresy thread:

Major Spag posted:

Some things I do:




Here's the whole squad

TKIY
Nov 6, 2012
Grimey Drawer
Since everyone is stuck inside if y'all still got people to play with come get a big discount on my printed poo poo.

https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/SigmariteBoutique?coupon=CORONASUX

20% off orders over $20 CAD until the end of the month.

Xenomrph
Dec 9, 2005

AvP Nerd/Fanboy/Shill



Zuul the Cat posted:

Finally got my hands on some Scale 75 golds, so I finished up my Necron Overlord & Cryptek.







Just wanted to say that that looks real good!

Decorus
Aug 26, 2015

Big Ink posted:

Where are the lance batteries? Also please tell me they made an announcement I just can't find.

Lance batteries? Are you referring to some kind of cheesy fleet design? I only really bought a bunch of different ships because I liked how they looked and wanted to paint different kinds of smaller ships.

I did a quick search for BFG announcements, everything seemed to just be rumours based on that one video where the word "gothic" appears among other GW games. I choose to believe. :)

R0ckfish
Nov 18, 2013
Skinks!

S.J.
May 19, 2008

Just who the hell do you think we are?

Decorus posted:

Lance batteries? Are you referring to some kind of cheesy fleet design? I only really bought a bunch of different ships because I liked how they looked and wanted to paint different kinds of smaller ships.

I did a quick search for BFG announcements, everything seemed to just be rumours based on that one video where the word "gothic" appears among other GW games. I choose to believe. :)

Lances are a weapon type, which hit on a flat number instead of using a gunnery table for conventional guns, usually at the cost of less potential output and some other matchup specific stuff. They're the big fuckoff laser beams, basically.

Decorus
Aug 26, 2015

S.J. posted:

Lances are a weapon type, which hit on a flat number instead of using a gunnery table for conventional guns, usually at the cost of less potential output and some other matchup specific stuff. They're the big fuckoff laser beams, basically.

Thank you, I know what a lance is. I was just confused by being asked where the lance batteries are in a picture of my fleet.

To answer Big Inks question (assuming he doesn't know what a lance battery looks like), there are lance batteries on the Mars and Gothic class cruisers, the top left cruiser and the one below it. Additionally both Dauntless light cruisers carry a frontal lance armament, as do the 3 Firestorm frigates. The light cruisers and frigates have similar prow stripes for easy identification.

I finished my 3rd Dauntless, the torpedo variant. I guess according to the rules, she has to be named either Havock or Vigilant. I'm leaning toward the former.

Yellow means torpedoes.

lenoon
Jan 7, 2010

I always liked the dauntlesses but they’d perennially get their teeth kicked in every time I played.

Ilor
Feb 2, 2008

That's a crit.
The big thing with the Dauntless is to use its maneuverability to make flank approaches or to draw out torpedoes/strike craft before making a hard evasive turn. They're also a really good anchor to beef up an escort unit, as they're maneuverable enough to keep up, but pack an extra punch.

Serenade
Nov 5, 2011

"I should really learn to fucking read"
Sadly just a test model, but I've never had zenith highlighting go this well.

The green arrows are the actual shadow, the red arrows the fake. Blue arrow points to where I was sloppy and left a brush stroke thick enough to catch the highlight spray.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Working on some Delaque gang members and I could do with buying some green stuff, or perhaps another brand? I've also heard of liquid green stuff but that it's best to only buy that in person to confirm it's not turned into a lump.

As with most of the world I'm in a state of semi-quarantine so wanting to avoid going to the local GW or LGS places. Ya'll care to share your favorite modelling putty for small fixes/gap fills/additions?



Werix
Sep 13, 2012

#acolyte GM of 2013
So like many been working on minis during pandemic stuff. full gallery here. Sorry about pic quality, I'm at my dad's and don't have good light.




Ashcans
Jan 2, 2006

Let's do the space-time warp again!


Dang these are really nice skinks.

Ashcans
Jan 2, 2006

Let's do the space-time warp again!

Do I need to be concerned about applying varnish to resin miniatures after painting them? I have a couple I'd like to clear coat to protect them. I know some materials, mostly the Reaper Bones, doesn't like varnish.

Should I paint and seal a piece of scrap as a test?

TotalHell
Feb 22, 2005

Roman Reigns fights CM Punk in fantasy warld. Lotsa violins, so littl kids cant red it.


Painted up some D&D goblins, and I can honestly never been prouder of a set of minis I've painted. Their faces just have so much personality.



TotalHell fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Mar 22, 2020

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte

Ashcans posted:

Do I need to be concerned about applying varnish to resin miniatures after painting them? I have a couple I'd like to clear coat to protect them. I know some materials, mostly the Reaper Bones, doesn't like varnish.

Should I paint and seal a piece of scrap as a test?

Painted resin will behave the same way as painted plastic, you're all good to go.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Ashcans posted:

Do I need to be concerned about applying varnish to resin miniatures after painting them? I have a couple I'd like to clear coat to protect them. I know some materials, mostly the Reaper Bones, doesn't like varnish.

Should I paint and seal a piece of scrap as a test?

I know this isnt the point of your question, and I've only done about 3 reaper bones, but I didnt have any problem varnishing them. I know they dont like some brands of spray propellent, but I figure that by time they had been painted (and as long as I kept a sensible distance between can and model) spraying varnish wouldnt do any harm, and I havent noticed any problem with them.

Ashcans
Jan 2, 2006

Let's do the space-time warp again!

Yeast posted:

Painted resin will behave the same way as painted plastic, you're all good to go.
Hooray, thanks!

SiKboy posted:

I know this isnt the point of your question, and I've only done about 3 reaper bones, but I didnt have any problem varnishing them. I know they dont like some brands of spray propellent, but I figure that by time they had been painted (and as long as I kept a sensible distance between can and model) spraying varnish wouldnt do any harm, and I havent noticed any problem with them.
That's good to know! I had heard that some people had issues with stuff remaining tacky for a long time with certain sprays, so it's something I would be careful of; I haven't actually sealed any of my bones miniatures because I generally paint them for handling and I'm not worried about them taking some knocks in general - unlike my resin, which I assume will shatter if jarred and plan to store immaculately in a sealed box.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Ashcans posted:

That's good to know! I had heard that some people had issues with stuff remaining tacky for a long time with certain sprays, so it's something I would be careful of; I haven't actually sealed any of my bones miniatures because I generally paint them for handling and I'm not worried about them taking some knocks in general - unlike my resin, which I assume will shatter if jarred and plan to store immaculately in a sealed box.

If you are wary of it you could always get some brush-on varnish, or test your spray varnish on the underside of one with a wide base or something. But once the model is coated in a couple of coats of paint it really should be fine. I'd personally be more gung-ho about varnishing a model I wanted to be handled than one I was only painting for display!

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



Ashcans posted:

Hooray, thanks!

That's good to know! I had heard that some people had issues with stuff remaining tacky for a long time with certain sprays, so it's something I would be careful of; I haven't actually sealed any of my bones miniatures because I generally paint them for handling and I'm not worried about them taking some knocks in general - unlike my resin, which I assume will shatter if jarred and plan to store immaculately in a sealed box.

some spray primers can leave bones tacky. you also don't need to prime the old white bones. unusual a very slightly thinned base coat is enough to start. the new material gray bones seem to take spray primer just fine in my experience

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



Does anyone know of a paint color that might accurately represent the rocks of the American Southwest?

Moongrave
Jun 19, 2004

Finally Living Rent Free
Finally had a day off so i could get the head on this guy to finish him off



also tried a freehand on the cloak of the next guy and well, i guess I can just paint over it

Ineptitude
Mar 2, 2010

Heed my words and become a master of the Heart (of Thorns).
Bought some minis and paint during black friday that i was going to sit down with this summer.
Due to COVID-19 an event i was using all my hobby-time towards has been cancelled, which means i suddenly have hobby-time for miniatures.

I started un-sprue'ing the first marine and noticed that my cutting tool is "displacing" the part quite a lot, the angle of the cutting blades is quite steep. Is this something i need to be concerned about? Like parts breaking when i do the first cut? The cutter i am using looks very similar to this

Big Ink
Jun 26, 2006
[img]https://forumimages.somethingawful.com/images/newbie.gif[/img]

Ineptitude posted:

I started un-sprue'ing the first marine and noticed that my cutting tool is "displacing" the part quite a lot, the angle of the cutting blades is quite steep. Is this something i need to be concerned about? Like parts breaking when i do the first cut? The cutter i am using looks very similar to this

The cutters you have will work fine, they're better used for cutting wire, just move them a little further from the model as you cut with the concave facing away from the model and clean up the leftover sprue with a hobby knife and sand paper. Otherwise find a sharper set of cutters like these.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
Elijah Borgmann joins my Malifaux Crew.


jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


lighting effects are cool as hell

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
I'm not normally a fan of OSL but that looks great

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply