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Crossposting from the 40k thread:JackMann posted:Finished an Apothecary!
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Mar 13, 2020 13:22
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people who can paint smooth whites always make me real mad haha Good job dude! Looks awesome
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Mar 13, 2020 13:25
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Ineptitude posted:Can i use standard minifig paint to paint on Lego bricks? You're probably going to have some adhesion problems if you're not priming, but you can give it a go anyway. Acrylic paint is acrylic paint. Your best bet would be to put a couple layers of varnish on over your paint. Otherwise it's going to flake off the second somebody plays with your toys, be they minis or Lego figures.
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Mar 13, 2020 15:19
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Miniacs new video about painting black and white was extremely helpful for me. It helped me understand a few things people in the goon Warhammer discord have told me about layering up that I couldn't quite grasp until now. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1KEGixXShPE plus it features his wife, and those two together are very cute. 
I said come in! fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Mar 13, 2020 |
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Mar 13, 2020 15:32
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I said come in! posted:Miniacs new video about painting black and white was extremely helpful for me. It helped me understand a few things people in the goon Warhammer discord have told me about layering up that I couldn't quite grasp until now. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1KEGixXShPE plus it features her wife, and those two together are very cute. What is miniacs preferred pronoun? This is a good video, explains a lot.
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Mar 13, 2020 17:41
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grassy gnoll posted:You're probably going to have some adhesion problems if you're not priming, but you can give it a go anyway. Acrylic paint is acrylic paint. Yea, I would guess that the biggest problems will be the paint coming off rapidly, especially if there will be any handling or repeated use of the piece (ie, you aren't just making a display model). You can definitely do it, the paint will work fine, but it's not designed to really stand up to wear. The issue with varnish is that lego has very tight tolerances, a few layers of varnish could actually make a difference depending on the piece and the surface. It might be better to use a different kind of paint, something like enamels? I can't get that poo poo off anything, it would probably hold up pretty well.
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Mar 13, 2020 17:50
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TURGID TOMFOOLERY posted:What is miniacs preferred pronoun?
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Mar 13, 2020 17:55
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jesus WEP posted:i *think* miniac is a dude and the OP just did a typo but i could be wrong My apologies for the typo. I just now realized my mistake.
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Mar 13, 2020 18:48
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nbd it’s cool
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Mar 13, 2020 19:07
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The Lego is purely a display piece and the paint/coat would only be on the top side of the relevant pieces so no tolerance or fitup issues. Im a bit of a purist so i really prefer to buy the Lego pieces but for these ones it is a bit of a special case where each piece costs ~$2, i need 50ish of them, but most importantly no one has more than 2-3 of them and due to import tax + handling fee to my country the final price of each piece would be roughly $15, for a tiny piece of plastic... What makes enamel different from paint?
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Mar 13, 2020 20:17
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Enamel paints (like Testors) have a different medium that the pigment is dissolved in, oils or mineral spirits, and typically dry more slowly but are tougher once dry? Whereas most miniatures paints are acrylic, because it can be thinned or cleaned with water and is generally more friendly to work with.
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Mar 13, 2020 20:40
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grassy gnoll posted:You're probably going to have some adhesion problems if you're not priming, but you can give it a go anyway. Acrylic paint is acrylic paint. Sand it first then clean with rubbing alcohol (if you can find any!) Gotta increase the surface energy to get a good bond.
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Mar 13, 2020 22:41
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Finally completed my first model in about 2 years, an Iron Warriors Warsmith. Minus the bit I have to clean up on his shoulder pad, I'm really happy with how he came out. 
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Mar 14, 2020 18:17
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Cross Posting from the AoS threadLord_Hambrose posted:Finally finished up a unit of Blightkings and took some pictures. Pretty pleased with how these turned out.
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Mar 15, 2020 00:11
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Ineptitude posted:The Lego is purely a display piece and the paint/coat would only be on the top side of the relevant pieces so no tolerance or fitup issues. Enamels have more bite than acrylics, so there's a better chance of adhesion. What you really want is a lacquer like Mr. Color or Gaianotes, either from a bottle or decanted from a spray can. That will do just fine on ABS without primer. But then you run into the normal lacquer issues (odor, ease of acquisition, etc). If you don't mind a flatter sheen surface, you could make a pass with Testors Dullcote and put the paint on top of that.
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Mar 15, 2020 00:42
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I finished up a reaver!
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Mar 15, 2020 02:58
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Hello there. Here's Xat-Gong-Ahurt, Clan Lord for the Salamander faction, KoW.   
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Mar 15, 2020 03:20
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Hello Xat-Gong-Ahurt, Clan Lord for the Salamander faction. I think you are painted wonderfully. Good painting my friend.
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Mar 15, 2020 03:59
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I finished the last second pair of cruiser from the BFG starter box. So at long last, I have two painted fleets!  These two have swappable gun decks. Sadly, the original ships only came with a single sprue containing one pair each of lances/gun batteries/hangars. Murder/Carnage class  Slaughter class  I ordered a bunch of official GW 32mm flight stands for the Iconoclasts and the other future ships, I'll take better pictures of the escorts once I get them mounted. I painted the Imperial ships a long time ago, and I don't really like the blue prows on the cruisers anymore. I'll repaint those, but other than that they look fine. There's about 1300 pts in ships for each side. Chaos fleet Repulsive, Styx, 2 Murders/Carnages, Slaughter, 10 Iconoclasts  Imperial fleet Mars, Dictator, Tyrant/Dominator, Gothic, 2 Dauntless, 3 Firestorm, 3 Sword, 3 Cobra  Up next is battleships, transports and more Chaos escorts.
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Mar 15, 2020 12:00
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Just finished painting my Repulsor. Those edge highlights nearly broke me. Took me the whole of yesterday to do but I'm proud of how it's turned out.   
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Mar 15, 2020 20:35
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Lord_Hambrose posted:Cross Posting from the AoS thread The realistic paintjob, gross bloody bandages and all, makes those guys absolutely horrifying, great job. 
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Mar 15, 2020 21:21
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Thanks, i think ill try out the Lego painting with normal acrylic paint (since i already have that) The pieces wont be played with so it should be fine i suppose.
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Mar 15, 2020 23:53
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Did some red for this cloak, still WIP but it's looking ok! Going from almost all contrast paints to "real" painting is fun
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Mar 16, 2020 00:10
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BARONS CYBER SKULL posted:Did some red for this cloak, still WIP but it's looking ok! Going from almost all contrast paints to "real" painting is fun There is little that’s more rewarding than when you can feel yourself improving. Cloak looks nice so far!
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Mar 16, 2020 00:31
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TotalHell posted:There is little that’s more rewarding than when you can feel yourself improving. Cloak looks nice so far!   Just got the head to do now, it's a bit bland atm, and some touchups maybe on the knees
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Mar 16, 2020 04:28
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X-posting some Necrons:Zuul the Cat posted:Necrons continue to grow! Finished up this Triarch Stalker this weekend:
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Mar 16, 2020 17:10
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These look great, and I'm especially interested in the bases - what did you use for the 'ground' material? I'm going to base an AT warhound at some point in the future and I'm looking for something less coarse than my usual sand mixture.
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Mar 16, 2020 23:30
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Thanks! I used Vallejo Ground Texture - Grey Sand. But you can really use any of the ground textures that Vallejo makes, as long as there's grit in it. I end up priming mine all black then a light grey primer and paint them. I'm going to post a guide on it this week.
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Mar 17, 2020 16:47
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Fantastic, cheers!
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Mar 17, 2020 22:12
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So while I'm waiting for the weather to warm up so I can keep the window open (to ventilate the room when assembling minis) and working up the ambition to continue painting the Skitarii, I thought to come up with a set of goals or a roadmap of things of different things I want to try with mini painting in the future.
Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Mar 18, 2020 |
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Mar 18, 2020 05:08
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Max Wilco posted:I'm not super interested in Reaper or Scale75, but I know they probably have some good colors. You should be. Both are very good. though S75 did run a "heroes of the reich" kickstarter and did the whole "we're sorry people were offended" bullshit so take that how you want to
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Mar 18, 2020 05:26
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Max Wilco posted:
So, quick go-down of the list here: Airbrush - The Patriot is probably the best option, but you could get away with a cheapo Master compressor and tank off Amazon to save some cash. I believe you do need to get the right hose attachment if you do that, though a local Home Depot or Harbor Freight store should have that no problem. All else fails, order that off Amazon too. Specialized paints - Can't really speak of them, never used them myself. Definitely seen some neat poo poo in the thread with them, though. Other Brands - I've used P3, they definitely have some off-beat colors that aren't super easy to match in other lines. Stuff like Bloodstone, a nice chestnut brown that, when separated from sitting on a wet palette for too long, has some green in it. Can't find a good swap for it for the life of me. They are designed for two-brush blending, though, which means they'll tend to be a little thinner right out of the pot (though not as thin as airbrush-specific paints). Scale 75 I've heard is good, but definitely had some poo poo recently where they kinda totally ended up not hiding their power level and outed themselves as wehraboos. Like sure, they quickly backpedaled, but even still, not the greatest look, so that could very well be a dealbreaker. I would recommend checking out Warcolours once the whole Cornholio virus poo poo passes and travel/shipping isn't hella hosed, but I know they do more of a gel medium than acrylic, so while neat it's definitely something new to get used to. Reaper is also nice, because they do something similar to GW with their Triads, in that they pair three colors together that are likely to be a base, mid-tone and highlight without having to fart around and figure it out yourself. Kitbashing - Do it up. There's all kinds of cool modifications you can do, given a good hobby knife, some green stuff, and a bit of ingenuity. 3D Printing - I just had a fleet of High Elf boats for Man o'War 3d-printed out of resin for me by fellow goon Madness and his company, and for that whole shebang (15 boats in total, plus masts/sails) and shipping across the US it only cost me $55. If you're in the US, I'd definitely shoot him a PM and see if you guys could work something out for the stuff you're looking for. Forgeworld - On the other hand, we have FW. Like, not gonna lie while some of the models that come out of FW are cool as gently caress, I've actually seen better quality control from recasters than FW. If you do still want to pull the trigger, remember to wash every part before starting work on it (gets rid of mold release agents, as well as whatever else might've found its way onto the parts), and try not to dry-sand or file resin if at all possible.  Breathing resin dust is NO loving JOKE, and will seriously gently caress your lungs up. Scrape moldlines with a hobby knife, or if you do need to sand/file, do it submerged fully in a tub of water. Rescuing "pro-painted" minis - Definitely a way to get some neat, offbeat stuff, especially if you can find lots where people are actually admitting they hosed up somewhere and are just trying to move figures. Do at least take "before" photos before stripping, and "after" photos after jamming out your paintjob.
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Mar 18, 2020 05:43
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Aniodia posted:Forgeworld - On the other hand, we have FW. Like, not gonna lie while some of the models that come out of FW are cool as gently caress, I've actually seen better quality control from recasters than FW. If you do still want to pull the trigger, remember to wash every part before starting work on it (gets rid of mold release agents, as well as whatever else might've found its way onto the parts), and try not to dry-sand or file resin if at all possible. You can also just wear the same mask you have for airbrushing and then clean it up.
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Mar 18, 2020 05:49
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Here's my airbrush wisdom: Get a Harder and Steenbeck. You will pay a little more but the engineering is tight. I bought my Silverline M as a starter three years ago and I never managed to break it and it works amazingly to this day. I've noticed other brands have springs and all sort of poo poo in them and when they break down it appears to be a massive ordeal. The H&S range are a kar98. Germans made it. It doesn't break down. It shoots good. An idiot can fix it. I recommend this brand.
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Mar 18, 2020 05:49
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Did some terrain so cross posting thisHarvey Mantaco posted:I've waited. I've waited so long.
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Mar 18, 2020 06:11
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I stepped away from the hobby in October to focus on the business (I'm a restaurant photographer) So of course, Covid has come and annihilated me and all of my clients, so I look forward to being a loving neckbeard and painting again.
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Mar 18, 2020 08:50
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I finished my Firebranded for my Malifaux crew. Only 3 models to go before I have the full keyword painted! I think that the sleeveless guy is one of the coolest models in the game.      
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Mar 18, 2020 13:07
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Electric Hobo posted:I finished my Firebranded for my Malifaux crew. Only 3 models to go before I have the full keyword painted! Those are gorgeous. Also, if you scroll quickly, its like a 3-act play about a cocky mage getting their comeuppance.
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Mar 18, 2020 13:51
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Max Wilco posted:Try other brands of paint: So far, I've only really used Citadel and Vallejo paints, along with Army Painter washes. I've wanted to try P3 for a while. I thought it would be interesting to try Tamiya colors, but I don't know if you have to do anything special when applying those to minis. I'm not super interested in Reaper or Scale75, but I know they probably have some good colors. Max Wilco posted:3D Printing (?): I put a question mark here because while I've seen a lot of cool 3D printed stuff, I don't know how viable actually doing it would be. Even though it's gotten a lot cheaper, they still seem pretty pricey. I know the MDF ones you can get from place's like Michael's or JoAnn's, but from what I've heard, the MDF printers are more suited for terrain. Resin printers seem like they're more suited to what I had in mind (bits for infantry/character models, which need more detail), but the resin odor issues prevent me from having it in the house, and there's no stable, dedicated place for me to put it in the shed. The answer I guess would be to send it to someone who has a 3D printer. Max Wilco posted:Rescue minis from eBay: When I first was getting into mini painting, someone recommended buying minis from eBay for cheap, but in addition to that, I thought it would be a good way of maybe getting minis that aren't directly available anymore. But Ebay salvage is a great way to overcome fear of failure from painting. You don't have to worry about perfection if it's already compromised and cheap. These man-o-wars will never be perfect, so I can just attack them.  but just paint.
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Mar 18, 2020 14:53
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Did some terrain so cross posting this That marble looks so good. How'd you do it?
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Mar 18, 2020 15:27
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