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How are the poops? Can you separate it with a filter sock?
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Mar 21, 2020 21:41
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BONGHITZ posted:How are the poops? Can you separate it with a filter sock? Somewhat solid-ish and large, unless you or the turtle tear them (they have like a mucus capsule) or the turtle mistakes one for food and then bites it before hilariously spitting it out. They’re carnivore-leaning omnivores so it smells pretty bad and is full of bacteria that make the water nasty quick. I try to scoop em out if I see them
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Mar 22, 2020 02:48
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Since I'm cooped up I figured I'd try repurposing a tank from my planned cold water tank to try breeding glowlight tetra. I put pebbles in as substrate, moved a sponge filter over from an established tank, and then moved over 4 tetra with water from their tank. Couple questions: should I have waited for a cycle? I figured not, since I moved them to a new tank but with an established filter and old water. They're mostly just sitting together, and not really exploring. I suspect that's stress from the move, but how long should I give them before giving up and moving them back to the other tank?  It looks funny because it's 1" thick acrylic.
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Mar 22, 2020 19:13
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You want to give them dim light so they aren't stressed and try to simulate the day/night cycle as a lot of egg scatterers will spawn at dawn. Using a cycled sponge should be fine, it's a pretty light bioload anyway. Have you got any particular food you're feeding to condition the adults? Usually you feed them up with live food for a week or two before you move them into the tank since you don't want to have rich food spoiling in the fry tank after you take the adults out. I'd give them 2 or 3 days before removing the fish, then wait a couple of days to see if any fry result. You can always try again if nothing happens and I think they'd get used to the new tank if you did it enough times. I do think tetra eggs are light sensitive, if I recall you don't want a bright light on them once they've been laid. It looks like a great set up to spawn fish in, only thing I can think of to improve it is that they might like really soft water or even blackwater to breed in. Maybe a lid in case they get too rambunctious while breeding and accidentally jump out!
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Mar 22, 2020 21:53
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The room they're in has a lot of ambient light, so turned the lamp I had on them off and they should get a good day/night cycle just based on where the tank sits. I've been conditioning the parents with white worms, although not as much as I'd like. I'm still trying to figure out how to really get the white worm culture cranking. The light sensitivity was something I read about too, my plan is to pull the parents after a few days and then toss a towel over the tank for 24-48 hours to see if anybody hatches. My main planted tank is doing pretty rough at the moment, I think it's suffering from too much tinkering. I cleaned the canister filter, and pruned a bunch of the plants that are starting to yellow and look bad, and am trying to get the CO2 dialed in properly. I should probably walk away from it for a week, but it's hard when I can't go out...
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Mar 22, 2020 23:13
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DeadlyMuffin posted:It looks funny because it's 1" thick acrylic. I dunno man. Is that tank strong enough for that water volume?
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Mar 23, 2020 07:21
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Resting Lich Face posted:I dunno man. Is that tank strong enough for that water volume? #repurposingamantisshrimpbuild
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Mar 23, 2020 13:36
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Had a terrifying couple hours yesterday as my co2 regulator was set too high and everyone almost suffocated. Managed to reoxygenate the water back to normal just in time to avoid taking any casualties- there were a couple tetras sort of listless for a while but everyone bounced back enough to eat dinner last night and seem happy this morning. Now I’m scared of my co2 setup, cool.
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Mar 23, 2020 15:48
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Don't be scared - think about what you did that helped you catch it in time, and do more of that. It's not the CO2 necessarily that is dangerous, I've had a suffocation disaster just from overcrowding, too much duckweed, and borrowing an airstone from that tank to use elsewhere which caused me to lose something like 25 fish, with survivors suffering lingering health effects. For me the problem was complacency, a lack of identifying that the overcrowding was hazardous and that the duckweed (which only covered 3/4 of the surface) was also hazardous. The tank had been fine for months. Plus I made a change without monitoring the tank afterwards, which is always a big no-no, even though it was "just" an airstone. With CO2 dosed tanks there are things you can monitor or measure, and things you can control, and you just need to know to be more vigilant and make much smaller adjustments. Hypocritical advice from me as I am too scared to even start with CO2, but that is more that I know I couldn't be on the ball enough to get it running smoothly with how things are in my life at the moment than that I think CO2 is too risky. I have recognised that an incompetent operator is a hazard for my fish and I'm controlling that hazard by trying to keep things fairly simple. 😅
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Mar 23, 2020 16:37
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Do you guys ever run double regulators? Dial the distal one in (closest to tank) first with the proximal one wide open and then when you're happy with it dial the proximal one in just until you notice it dropping the co2 rate and bring it up to where the rate difference occurs. Kinda a free failsafe?
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Mar 23, 2020 16:40
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https://nypost.com/2020/03/19/sales-of-fish-tank-additive-skyrocket-after-studies-say-it-could-treat-coronavirus/ So some dipships ate Chloroquine phosphate, which is an anti-malaria medicine, great, but the easiest way to get it in the US is in fish medication. Which is toxic for humans (and some algae and marine ich and velvet). And Trump said the FDA approved this poo poo already. And now people are dead. Woot.
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Mar 24, 2020 01:41
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but he's immune to coronavirus now. https://twitter.com/gaileyfrey/status/1241503923589902336?s=20 massive snail thread
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Mar 24, 2020 02:07
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Tank has been crated and shipped. Should arrive... who knows when with all this poo poo going on. Exciting stuff! Anyway I was gonna go with twin FX4s to filter it (200gal tank) for a total circulation of 900gph. Should I do FX6s for 1100gph and extra media space? I find a lot of mixed info when it comes to exactly how many times the volume you want to circulate per hour. Resting Lich Face fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Mar 24, 2020 |
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Mar 24, 2020 02:33
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Resting Lich Face posted:Anyway I was gonna go with twin FX4s to filter it (200gal tank) for a total circulation of 900gph. Should I do FX6s for 1100gph and extra media space? I find a lot of mixed info when it comes to exactly how many times the volume you want to circulate per hour. Fx6s lose a lot of volume to the coarse sponge that goes around the media baskets, and I imagine fx4s are the same. I'd be tempted to look for a square canister with bigger media baskets to get better bang for my bux if I was buying a new filter now. I don't know what's good these days, sicce and oase have some filters but I am not sure if they are Eurocentric or available elsewhere.  I mean look at that tiny basket inside that huge barrel. The new variable speed Sunsuns have the same problem I think, let me see if I can find a comparison  So that's compared to an aqua one nautilus 2700s media trays. If media volume is your main concern, a cheaper square body filter with no UV lamp will give you a good result.
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Mar 24, 2020 05:28
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I picked the FX4 (or 6) because they have good reviews and are supposed to be pretty quiet (and self priming is a big plus). Also they provide more technical specs than other brands I'm seeing. They quote both pump output and actual circulation volume. Others share just one figure and I'm betting it's the pump output because that's a bigger number but it's not the information I actually need. I know some people use pond filters but space is at a premium. I've heard good things about Hydor as well but they don't seem to make a really big model. Sounds like if I do go with Fluval I should get FX6s because their height gets a lot more media in there compared to their smaller cousin. I'm not set on anything just yet. Resting Lich Face fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Mar 24, 2020 |
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Mar 24, 2020 22:20
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Synthbuttrange posted:but he's immune to coronavirus now. I literally learned just yesterday that the little white spots all over my driftwood are not sand grains that got stuck and can't be brushed off, but are in fact nerite eggs. There aren't even any other snails in the tank, but my little bastard seems determined to cover it in eggs anyway.
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Mar 24, 2020 22:42
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I've been buying eheim classics lately and they're the poo poo if your just looking at media volume. Really quiet too. Yet to really hear them at all
w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Mar 24, 2020 |
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Mar 24, 2020 22:42
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I love my eheim, I have a pro Ecco and it self primes in a really weird but effective way - the pump head is lifted out of the canister body by the handle which works like a lever, but not to the point where any water can leak out. This is like a huge plunger sucking water up the inlet pipes. Once there is flow through both pipes you can close it again and the canister fills nicely. The classics are always sold out here so I've not seen what they are like. I do have an FX6 myself, would never have bought it new but got it second hand from someone I know who only had it for 18 months or so. One thing I hate about the fluvals is the brittle plastic ribbed hoses but the drain outlet at the bottom of the canister is really useful. If you're getting two canisters, a FX6 and then a big square canister for extra media would be a pretty good compromise. Just thinking I'm due to clean both my FX6 and my Aquis so maybe I can do some side by side pics of media volume.
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Mar 25, 2020 05:39
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So I'm a clumsy dumbass and managed to crack my 6.5 gallon tank that my male veiltail betta fish was in (I accidentally bumped it against a doorknob while carrying it. I didn't even bump it hard and the plastic cracked bad enough to leak...), so I had to move him to a spare 2.5 gallon tank. I did some research to see if that is acceptable for a betta long term and some people said it works as the minimum and others say only 5+ gallon tanks like my old one are the minimum healthy size for them. Should I bite the bullet and get a new tank or let him stay in the 2.5? Also on that note, what are some goon-approved tanks I could get if I decided to upgrade?
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Mar 25, 2020 07:07
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Depends on how crowded it is and how active your betta likes to be. I kept a solo betta with some snails and shrimp in a tank that size for awhile and it seems like a decent size.
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Mar 25, 2020 09:31
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I definitely always err on the side of bigger; just like people in quarantine who wish they could stretch their legs, fish like to have space too. You could probably keep him in there for a while and he’ll be fine, but I’m sure he’d appreciate going back to a 5 gal or more tank if you can make it happen.
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Mar 25, 2020 13:11
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My betta would be perfectly happy in a dirty cup of water as long as there was something he could hide behind. I know it's subjective, but what is considered a decent nitrate range? I was running zero nitrites and zero nitrates for months and now I can't seem to shake 20ppb nitrate. I empty out 30% of my water weekly and it still tests 20ppb. That's in the safe range, but I prefer zero. I've been trying extra hard to get rid of any decomposing plant matter, but I'm missing a fish somewhere. Could a rotting tetra carcass be causing this because the water itself doesn't appear to be.
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Mar 25, 2020 18:56
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Do you mean ppm because 20 ppb is homeopathy levels of nitrate. If it's not in your source water it could well be from a rotting fish but that shouldn't last longer than a week I would think.  Not quite two weeks old, and he has his neon yellow colour and tail spot already. I've split up my racers from my runts and this is the biggest guy I think, although there two big ones that are around the same size. It would take two months for a gudgeon fry to get this size. Thinking about moving the biggest ones to live on the counter with the sterbai until they grow out big enough to live in the 4 foot tank. I'm really surprised how fast they grow although this is probably less than 10% of them that I've separated. There are some tiny slim ones still and while the big ones are stealing all the food, they'll stay that way. For scale the scoria is 3 or 4mm grain size.
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Mar 25, 2020 19:12
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Synthbuttrange posted:Depends on how crowded it is and how active your betta likes to be. I kept a solo betta with some snails and shrimp in a tank that size for awhile and it seems like a decent size. He seems to be doing ok so far. He's solo and the tank has two live plants and a few moss balls. I'll keep an eye on him and see if he seems uncomfortable in it after a while.
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Mar 25, 2020 19:40
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I have a couple of danio fry that are not growing at all as far as I can tell. They're still the size of 1-2 week old babies, and have been for quite a while, despite their whole cohort continuing to mature (they have spots now!). I isolated them in a breeder net because they're so small I'm worried they'll be eaten by some of the larger fry, and I wanted to be able to target feed them, but it isn't really making a difference. Is it normal to have stunted fry? They seem to swim around and eat just fine, they simply never grow.
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Mar 27, 2020 05:16
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Yeah I have absolutely seen this, in the zebras I bred and to some extent in the gudgeons too. It's a function of egg scattering fish, birth defects or otherwise genetically poor fry aren't uncommon and it doesn't matter because the fish can pump out so many eggs over time. Survival of the fittest, and so on, but I also wonder if it is a successful strategy to provide a larger food source for the bigger fry. The tiny fry can collect tiny food that the bigger fry don't eat any more, and become food themselves? I had a pair of runt zebras that I wasn't able to catch when I was giving away the rest so they stayed living in the tank and did slowly grow, probably only reached 1/2 or 3/4 the size of the other zebras but didn't have a reduced lifespan or anything. They were just smaller overall, whereas in gudgeons and corydoras I tend to see shortbody type deformity in the fish that don't just waste away and die. In corydoras I had fry that seemed to grow a bit in the skeleton but be unable to put on muscle mass. So they were big bony heads with skinny bodies, and those ones tended to die off over time. I assume they have some deficiency or deformity which prevented them getting good nutrition out of their food. Hobbyist breeders get to see these details and select only the best healthiest fish to breed from, whereas large scale breeding with all the fish in big ponds there's no external predation, there's regular food so fish that perhaps should not succeed at breeding still do and you get overall poorer quality of genetics. Or something like that. The other factor to watch out for is to split up your fry by size. Slow growth doesn't always mean deformity as there are almost always fish that get ahead in growth and then begin to dominate the food supply so that they keep getting bigger and everyone else misses out and stays small. I think there is a proper word for it but I can't remember what it is so I just call it runts vs racers. The racers get ahead so they are bigger and more mature earlier and I think in nature this is to ensure that there are a range of sizes of fry around in case of changes in conditions. For example, the bigger fry are more visible and are easier targets for predation so if a predator passes through and wipes out the larger fry the smaller ones that were able to hide in very shallow water can continue to survive. Or if a rush of floodwater comes in, the bigger fry can swim more strongly and the smaller ones are washed away. Anyway you can tell the difference between racers, runts and fish that were just left behind by racers in that you should only have a very small percentage of non-growing runty fish, vs a large number of medium fish, and a small number of large racers.
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Mar 27, 2020 05:45
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Do danios do well with shrimp? I'm looking for some new fish but I have inverts in my tank.
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Mar 27, 2020 17:24
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I think even dwarf danios would predate on shrimplets, so the danios would do really well and the shrimp would do pretty terribly. I've heard either no fish is shrimp safe, or otos are (but don't suit nano tanks and compete with shrimp for available biofilm). Maybe something that stays at the surface most of the time, like emerald eye rasboras or espei rasboras or any of the microrasboras? Clown killifish? Pencil fish (nannostomas, named for their tiny mouths)? Lamp eye killis? I don't know what water parameters are required for these and it might not match your shrimp. Any time you add fish you're putting inverts at risk, either through predation or the risk of diseases and resulting medication being toxic for inverts.
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Mar 27, 2020 17:47
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RLF: I took some filter photos but forgot to turn the flash on so they might need editing. I can add those later at this point. I had my boxy cheaper canister side by side with my FX6 and took some measurements of the media baskets to bring you the following low quality sloppy calculations. I didn't count media basket thickness and I did count the extra media I put in the bottom of the boxy filter (about 3cm deep). The part that actually holds media in an FX6 FX6 28cm tall, 16cm diameter. The entire basket structure 28cm diameter. Volume of media = 28*8*8*3.14/1000 = 5.63 litres in the centre of a basket which is 28*14*14*3.14/1000=17.23 litres total. 11.6 litres of wasted space around the outside of the barrel! The theory is, water goes in, to the bottom outside of the canister body, swirls up through the coarse sponges to the very top of the basket stack, and then is pulled down through the centre of the stack by the pump which then pushes it up a second pipe and back into the tank. The change of direction of water flow should help settle big chunks out of the water. The utility hose pulls water from the bottom of the canister and can be used to either drain the canister for maintenance, drain the tank itself, or even with the right arrangement of valves, pull clean water into the tank. Aquis 1250 (not 2700 like I thought, oops thats not a thing, I get mine confused with a nautilus 2700 constantly) 23cm tall, 21cm square, with an extra 3cm of media in the bottom of the barrel so 23*21*21/1000 = 11 litres. Almost twice the media volume. Much weaker flow although this could be improved with better placement of the outlet, spraybars or using an internal powerhead. You did mention space being a premium; the FX 6 is a barrel around 36cm wide with protruding external pump. Its something like 43cm tall. My square barrel filter is around the same height but only 22cm square and it has pretty much double the media volume. I think even a fat pond pump would be smaller than an FX6. edit: oh no I'm too tired and dumb to work out how to quickly get photos for this post off of my phone and on to the post. I can add illustrations later if required. I'm not trying to tell you not to buy an FX6 but if media volume is a priority you aren't getting bang for your buck. If flow is a priority then probably you are, not just from the pump but from the large diameter hoses which mean less restricted flow. I'm almost personally insulted by how big the canister is vs how small the media volume is though. Stoca Zola fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Mar 27, 2020 |
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Mar 27, 2020 19:56
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Stoca Zola posted:Anyway you can tell the difference between racers, runts and fish that were just left behind by racers in that you should only have a very small percentage of non-growing runty fish, vs a large number of medium fish, and a small number of large racers. This is super, super interesting, and explains a lot. Thank you. I figured I had fry from a bunch of different batches, but this explains what i was seeing much better.
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Mar 28, 2020 07:42
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 Stand in its final location. Tank is in the garage. Big fucker, gonna have to hire someone to move it upstairs into the house.   Bracing is all aluminum. Resting Lich Face fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Mar 28, 2020 |
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Mar 28, 2020 23:07
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 That looks so good!
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Mar 29, 2020 03:44
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That looks amazing! Lost my royal gramma today. The past few days he hadn’t left his cave and I’m not sure if he was eating. I thought he was dead yesterday but when I went to retrieve him he sprang alive and was swimming around normally. Found him on the sand bed upside down this morning. Sucks. I only had him a week so I’m thinking something stress or illness related because my water parameters are spot on at the moment and I didn’t see any injuries or anything on him. drat it.
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Mar 30, 2020 04:34
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It really does look incredible!
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Mar 30, 2020 05:55
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Haha yeah it's gonna be awesome. 30x30x48 doesnt sound that big until you get the tank delivered then its like DAYUM! So many possibilities!
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Mar 30, 2020 08:17
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Nice tank, and that looks like a perfect spot for it! I forget, are you going fresh or salt on this?
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Mar 30, 2020 13:11
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Fresh. Planning on a good-sized school of denison barbs but nothing's set in stone yet. Test kit arriving shortly so I can get a better idea of what my tapwater is like and that will inform my stocking decisions.
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Mar 30, 2020 17:29
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Oto catching some Zs (there's an oto sleeping in there most times I look)
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Mar 30, 2020 20:16
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Hopefully a sleep he wakes from. I've lost too many pleco fry to those tubes, I throw them all away now.
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Mar 31, 2020 00:28
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Oh no he's fine, i learned my lesson after a couple of times of freaking out and trying to get him out. just snoozin!
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Mar 31, 2020 13:53
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