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sigma 6 posted:OK - been doing a lot of research and was hoping for some advice. I am in the market for a sub 1k camera for photogrammetry (photo scanning). Mostly this means very high resolution but I also need something that will do decent video. So far I have narrowed it down to the You're probably going to want something that can shoot tethered, right? Make sure you get something that can. https://www.captureone.com/en/features/supported-cameras
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Mar 19, 2020 13:38
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You could get a D800 with 36 mp for very cheap these days, or the OG A7r which has the same sensor. I don’t remember the D800 having any shutter shock issues since it’s a big heavy body. Especially if you lock the mirror up. That said, I’ve never done any photogrammetry so no idea if it’d meet those requirements.
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Mar 19, 2020 14:18
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The original D800 did have mirror slap and shutter shock issues if you weren't careful, which is why they quickly introduced the D810 with electronic first curtain shutter. It generally only affects a certain range of shutter speeds, especially on tripods.
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Mar 19, 2020 14:54
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So Kodak now sells rebranded flash drives while Fujifilm has a drug that might save people from coronavirus. https://www.cnbc.com/2020/03/18/coronavirus-japanese-flu-drug-could-be-effective-in-treating-pandemic.html Fujifilm really is the best.
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Mar 19, 2020 16:06
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Great job! ... Now bring down the price of HP5+ bulk :|
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Mar 19, 2020 16:12
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What about K? Like this one. Gotta admit the Fujifilm is looking really good for the video features on the X-T3 or X-T30 even. One of the things I need is very good video and the X-T3 is kind of impressive for video features. Also very reasonably priced. The Sony A7 looked great until I read about the shutter shock. That is a deal breaker for photogrammetry.
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Mar 19, 2020 20:08
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The K at the end of a7IIK just means it is a kit that comes with the a7II body and the lens.
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Mar 19, 2020 20:58
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sigma 6 posted:What about K? Are you using a tripod for your photogrammetry? If you are, the Olympus E-M1 Mark 2 has a pixel-shift mode that combines multiple, rapid, slightly offset (by the internal sensor stabilizer) exposures for high-detail stills of around 50MP. It also does 4K video and sells used for around $850-900. Fuji stuff is highly regarded in this forum because their cameras are fun to use, pleasantly designed, and their lenses buck the trend among their market class and sensor size by having lots of desirable features like wide apertures and focal lengths that approximate common full frame standards. As of the X-T2/20 generation, they also gained really good video. But for a user who is searching for detail above all else, I wouldn’t consider them a shoe-in. They use the same Sony sensors that everyone but Canon, Panasonic, and a few others use, so they have great dynamic range (ie you’ll see less grain in the shadows) but if you’re after really fine detail - like, zoomed to 100% and looking at textile fiber - then you’d perhaps be better served with any other modern 24MP+ camera. Then again, if that kind of detail isn’t what makes or breaks it for your purposes, you’ll find that Fuji cameras give great colors with minimum fuss in photo editing software, have stupendous exposure flexibility, and really great video quality. But even my old 24MP Nikon D600 retains fine detail (ever so slightly) better at ISO400 than my X-T2, when viewed at 100%. EDIT: god drat it I just re-read and you’re talking about the XT30 now. Also didn’t realize they were under $1K. I don’t know if the extra two MP in the XT30 makes up for the difference that normally exists between last-gen Fuji X-Trans and all other 24MP sensors, but it’s gotta be close. Still, the E-M1mkii pixel shift mode will blow any 24MP image out of the water in terms of detail, but only if you’re using a tripod and have a still subject. SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Mar 20, 2020 |
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Mar 20, 2020 02:16
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So I caved and got the E-M1 mk iii and am loving it so far. I have a quick question though, since this is my first camera with dual card slots - I set it so that it saves raw to one card and jpeg to the other - but if I want to delete a photo, I have to do it separately on both. Is there any way to sync them up like that, or no?
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Mar 22, 2020 00:46
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CodfishCartographer posted:So I caved and got the E-M1 mk iii and am loving it so far. I have a quick question though, since this is my first camera with dual card slots - I set it so that it saves raw to one card and jpeg to the other - but if I want to delete a photo, I have to do it separately on both. Is there any way to sync them up like that, or no? I don't think so. You can set which card you want showing when you hit play/preview but I think delete is also locked to only that card you're showing. E: it may also depend on how you're saving them (same to both with/without switching over, save to just one then switch when full, etc)
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Mar 22, 2020 15:21
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I can't use my X-H1 as a webcam (WebEx, etc.) without a capture card, correct? I tether with a USB to USB micro B but my Surface Pro doesn't recognize it as a video camera.
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Mar 22, 2020 15:52
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You likely need a capture card or HDMI to USB device to capture it.
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Mar 22, 2020 17:25
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sigma 6 posted:OK - been doing a lot of research and was hoping for some advice. I am in the market for a sub 1k camera for photogrammetry (photo scanning). Mostly this means very high resolution but I also need something that will do decent video. So far I have narrowed it down to the Hmm, for photogrammetry is high res really that relevant? I use Photoscan for the odd 3d thing and I usually use medium or high dense cloud quality - that scales the source photos to either 50% or 25% of original. Using the full resolution massively slows things down. I'm not sure of the benefit for textures but I would've thought anything 16MP or more would be more than enough since your textures are generally 4K or 8K squares, I doubt camera resolution would be the limiting factor there. Not saying the A7RII isn't fantastic - one of the best sensors ever made (though you can probably get a Nikon D800 cheaper if you don't mind an older DSLR). I just got my R2 this month and the files are great to work with. But I'd prioritise lenses above all else; the less aberrations, vignette, softness etc you've got, the better your results will be. Given the choice between a great lens on a more basic sensor or a cheap lens on a great sensor, it's a nobrainer.
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Mar 23, 2020 04:05
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Biscuitbeard posted:Hmm, for photogrammetry is high res really that relevant? I use Photoscan for the odd 3d thing and I usually use medium or high dense cloud quality - that scales the source photos to either 50% or 25% of original. Using the full resolution massively slows things down. That's the standard advice for general photography, but if you don't mind manual focus (for a static subject this may be less of an issue) you can get a 50mm prime of yesteryear for peanuts, and use it on an adapter. Stopped down it'll be tack sharp, and still pretty usable wide open. I know basically nothing about photogrammetry though, so this advice may not be valid. But if I was looking to do something like copy work (which photogrammetry seems somewhat adjacent to) I'd go A7rii + cheap, good manual prime. You can pretty much take your pick of the OEM 50mm f/1.8 primes from major systems - ideally a more modern one with multicoating though. Don't pay more than US$50. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 08:09 on Mar 23, 2020 |
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Mar 23, 2020 08:02
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Holy crap I just plugged my phone {galaxy s9) in to my monitor via USB-C to charge it because my normal charging cable is shot and I just discovered Samsung Dex. Basically turns your phone into a desktop and uses your touchscreen as a touchpad. Basic photo review, crop, and edits, plus posting just became so much easier! I can transfer directly to my phone using the Fuji app (super easy), crop, upload, and post and never need to plug my camera into a desktop! If that sounds like an odd setup, my monitor is hooked up to my work laptop, my desktop has always been hooked up to my tv. Cutting windows out of the workflow makes things so much simpler.
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Mar 23, 2020 16:29
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SMERSH Mouth posted:Are you using a tripod for your photogrammetry? If you are, the Olympus E-M1 Mark 2 has a pixel-shift mode that combines multiple, rapid, slightly offset (by the internal sensor stabilizer) exposures for high-detail stills of around 50MP. It also does 4K video and sells used for around $850-900. I don't use a tripod generally because I want to take 30-60 photos as quickly as possible around an object. So generally it is hand held. This makes me paranoid about shutter shock and the Olympus E-M1 Mark 2 "pixel-shift mode". In theory it is great (for 50 mp) but I wonder if the image stabilization is enough to take sharp pics at that resolution without a tripod. Both that and the Fuji look great for video but that would mean that photogrammetry takes a back seat to great video. Truth is I am trying to get a good balance of both. I have to use the camera to stream 2k video at a high frame rate (60 or above ideally) through HDMI. Wanting to record cymatics at high frame rates. Something like this Biscuitbeard: You are right that I generally use Agisoft photoscan / metashape. I didn't realize it cut the resolution in half when using medium settings but that totally makes sense for speed. People are saying the Sony camera's menus are arcane and difficult to navigate. Not against sticking with Nikon per se. The 840 is the industry standard for photogrammetry from what I have been reading. You are saying getting the Nikon D800 with a good 50mm lens is the best option over all these fancy mirrorless options? I mean - just how important is a full frame sensor for photogrammetry? It certainly is reasonably priced for the 36 megapixels and full frame sensor. In truth I am clueless about lenses. I know Zeiss is a great brand and I understand that Sony can have both Zeiss and Sony lenses. Fuji makes a lot of their own lenses and same with Panasonic(?) Had lots of people recommend Canon cameras so I was going to jump ship from Nikon to Canon but so many people are Sony fans it is hard to not consider them industry leaders. Weird part is trying out mirrorless cameras in Best Buy and feeling how light the cameras are. The Canon M50 and the Sony A7 II were SOOO light it was almost eerie after all the years using my Nikon 3100. Seems like the more research I do the more rabbit holes I am led down. Other minor concerns are weatherproofing and exposure range but those are a far 3rd and 4th place over resolution and capable video. Ethics_Gradient: Strongly considering the A7II R but can only afford a used version. Kinda iffy on buying used camera equipment. YMMV etc. sigma 6 fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Mar 25, 2020 |
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Mar 25, 2020 05:55
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Coming from a 10 year-old, entry-level DSLR to literally anything released in the last four years is going to be a quantum leap for you. There really are no bad cameras amongst the mainstream options, whatever you buy is going to be a massive upgrade. I really wouldn't sweat things like 'brand leaders', you aren't going to miss anything by buying a Panasonic rather than a Sony, or a Canon rather than a Nikon. A given amount of photobux will get you an equivalent camera from any of the major manufacturers in both capability and build quality. Where there are differences between brands, these manifest mostly in lens libraries - availability and price of specific lens options. For your purposes though, I doubt you are going to need anything too esoteric, so you aren't likely to run into a situation where the platform you choose doesn't have an appropriate lens at a reasonable price.
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Mar 25, 2020 06:25
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Re shutter shock - isn't anything even remotely new going to have electronic first curtain shutter that removes this issue completely
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Mar 25, 2020 08:06
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Yeah, but they’re considering the d800 and a7R, which are both old enough for it to be a concern. However, they’re also talking about handheld shooting, and I think shutter shock is mostly an issue on those cameras when you’re getting down into non-handheld shutter speeds. Probably anything faster than 1/125 is not too prone to shutter shock, but I’m not sure; it’s just what I’ve read. sigma 6, if you’re not using a tripod, nvm the whole Olympus multi-shot high-res thing. It doesn’t work reliably with handheld shooting; it relies on compensating for known displacement values (ie the amount of in-body shifting that the sensor does) and anything beyond that (ie how much it moves in your hands as you hold it) will throw it off. I think that if streaming 60p video is something you want to do, and considering that it seems like your photogrammetry application might be downsampling the resolution of your still images anyway, I take it all back and say go for the XT30. You won’t find a better video performer at that price without accepting a reduction in sensor size to micro 4/3, and you’re still getting just above 24MP of still image resolution if you need it. You can combine it with a Fuji brand 35mm f/2 and have a light and cheap (in terms of camera equipment) setup that will give you very sharp images of your subjects. The 35/2 is one of the sharpest lenses in entire Fuji system. And if you need the sharpest, the 50mm f/2 is around the same price; it just has a narrower field of view, which might not matter if you’re mostly doing photogrammetry of people and have the space to step back a little. Your comments about shutter shock and desire for resolution make me think you’ll actually benefit most from a sharp lens, so be sure and avoid any zooms that cost less than $1000. I bet you’ll be satisfied with the results from a sharp prime lens using the Fuji camera’s electronic shutter mode even if the final resolution is less than 24MP. So much of what photographers are talking about when they bemoan softness and/or lack of resolution in their images is the result of camera shake and poor optics. Stability and lens quality matter a lot more than absolute image resolution for perception of detail in still images. This is something I didn’t understand at first, coming from the world of computer graphics and video where display resolution has a much more perceptible impact on visible detail.
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Mar 25, 2020 13:28
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SMERSH Mouth posted:You can combine it with a Fuji brand 35mm f/2 and have a light and cheap (in terms of camera equipment) setup that will give you very sharp images of your subjects. The 35/2 is one of the sharpest lenses in entire Fuji system. And if you need the sharpest, the 50mm f/2 is around the same price; it just has a narrower field of view, which might not matter if you’re mostly doing photogrammetry of people and have the space to step back a little. Yet you suggest 2 lenses that cost under $500.  I won't hogtie this conversation any further by arguing that those aren't the sharpest Fuji lenses. They certainly are the lightest, and excellent for the price.
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Mar 25, 2020 14:29
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XBenedict posted:Yet you suggest 2 lenses that cost under $500. SMERSH Mouth posted:so be sure and avoid any zooms that cost less than $1000. Both of the lenses SM mentioned previously are primes.
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Mar 25, 2020 14:48
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Yeah, it’s true the 90/2 and 200/2 are marginally sharper according to some tests but the 50/2 is essentially the same unless you’re running imatest on posters of lines, and I’d argue that a good copy of the 50 will be sharper than a bad copy of the 90. ...I bet the QC on the 200 is probably more extensive though. I guess it is the sharpest.
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Mar 27, 2020 19:35
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I rented an Olympus E-M1 MKIII to play around with since I'm shelter in place till May. Genuinely impressed with the camera -- high res tripod mode at 80 mp is crazy. The body itself is definitely smaller than my Z6. It's the lenses that are really tiny. I rented the Oly 12-40 F2.8 with it. Very sharp, really small. Olympus makes nice stuff.
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Apr 1, 2020 17:54
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If I see a really good deal on an E-M5 III I might jump on it, the small size, ruggedness and cheap prices on m43 lenses is super appealing to me.
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Apr 1, 2020 18:03
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Anyone’s got the X100V yet?
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Apr 1, 2020 18:09
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bloops posted:I rented an Olympus E-M1 MKIII to play around with since I'm shelter in place till May. Genuinely impressed with the camera -- high res tripod mode at 80 mp is crazy. The body itself is definitely smaller than my Z6. It's the lenses that are really tiny. I rented the Oly 12-40 F2.8 with it. Very sharp, really small. Olympus makes nice stuff. I ran into low self control since I had a birthday and bought it as an upgrade to my EM10 ii, and hoo boy do I love it. Super fast and snappy, light and comfortable, the IS and high rez are great too.
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Apr 1, 2020 18:38
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Was down in the area where I grew up yesterday, so I decided to take my RX100 III with me to snap some pictures of my old stomping grounds. I have to say, I like having a good compact camera way more than I thought I would (I feel like I'm struggling with white balance a bit though).  
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Apr 2, 2020 16:58
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Anyone know how to turn off exposure preview on the gr iii?
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Apr 4, 2020 18:27
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I dunno if this helps you any, but at least on my GR 1 if you put it into manual mode it only sortof does exposure preview. It gets darker and lighter, but it's not an accurate reflection of the end image so it's more like the screen darkening and lightening than an actual preview. Like if I'm in a dark room and set it to f/16 1/2000s exposure the image is still visible in M mode rather than the complete black the actual photo would be.
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Apr 4, 2020 18:50
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I checked the gr ii and you are right it does not reflect the exposure correctly in manual mode, but does darken/brighten a little. You could also use TAv mode and set the iso range very tightly and it won't reflect the changes in exposure, but the gr iii doesn't have TAv and it darkens the screen much more making it difficult to compose a shot when using a flash. When you half press the shutter it brightens momentarily as it focuses, but only momentarily even with continuous autofocus. Also getting out the gr ii again and trying them side by side the autofocus performance in poor light is hilariously bad.
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Apr 5, 2020 00:26
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So had the E-M1 Mk III for a week. I liked it a lot overall but did not like the body. Felt very cramped and too small. That being said the 12-40 F2.8 was really sharp and very small. IBIS is absolutely incredible. I 100% get the appeal of M4/3.
bloops fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Apr 6, 2020 |
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Apr 6, 2020 23:54
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Maybe a stupid question but what is the difference between the Fujifilm XT 2 vs. XT 20 vs. XT 200? Also - why not get a X30 vs. an XT20 if they are about the same price? Is IBIS that big of a deal if I don't shoot action photography? It seems to be the main thing the Olympus has going for it. The Fujifilm video features are luring me away from Canon and Nikon ATM. I kind of have mixed feelings about the smaller form factor, but I take a lot of photos at concerts, so a smaller camera can only be a good thing. Is there a camera known to work very well in low light? Also - why, seemingly, are only the Panasonic cameras really rated as dustproof / weatherproof? Just noticed the Panasonic Lumix 80 mp (?!?) high res mode and seemingly decent image stabilization stuff now. sigma 6 fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Apr 8, 2020 |
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Apr 8, 2020 04:07
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X-T[x] is the top of the line with better ergos, weather resistance and a better EVF, X-T[xx] is the more budget line with the same sensor but less high-end body and feature set, X-T[xxx] is the entry line.
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Apr 8, 2020 04:22
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IBIS isn’t that helpful for action photography; it lets you use a lower shutter speed than you normally would be able to without blur from camera shake, but with action shots the subject movement is your limiting factor. Olympus also has a high res photo mode and I think it might be better implemented than Panasonics (not sure here though.) Olympus is known for weather sealing, but there are lots of cameras that have it. Nikon’s mirrorless and mid/high end DSLRs have it, some of the Fuji stuff, Pentax DSLRs, etc., not sure which cameras in the Canon line have it but definitely many of them. It’s definitely not just Panasonic and there are plenty of Panasonics that don’t have it.
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Apr 8, 2020 04:24
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sigma 6 posted:Maybe a stupid question but what is the difference between the Fujifilm XT 2 vs. XT 20 vs. XT 200? Also - why not get a X30 vs. an XT20 if they are about the same price? Panasonic do some extremely good video-centric cameras. They also made a GH5S where the S, like in the Sony A7S, stands for sensitivity. So larger pixels for more light gathering, but fewer of them. However, in the case of the GH5S, still enough for 4k video. So, if you want low light, video, smallish form factor (especially on the lenses, at least), and weather sealing, the GH5S has probably got you covered. It doesn't have IBIS, but most of the good panasonic/Leica lenses are stabilized. The Sony A7s is also an option for even more light gathering, being full frame, but I don't know too much about the Sony ecosystem and the lenses are going to be much bigger.
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Apr 8, 2020 06:33
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sigma 6 posted:Maybe a stupid question but what is the difference between the Fujifilm XT 2 vs. XT 20 vs. XT 200? Also - why not get a X30 vs. an XT20 if they are about the same price? If they're within $100, you would want to get the X-T30 against the X-T20 -- there's a lot of upgrades that trickled down from the X-T3 to the X-T30, while the X-T20 was based off the older X-T2. IBIS might help you at concerts, because it's helpful for low-light -- allowing for slower shutter-speeds. I have an X-T20, and it's pretty usable past ISO 3200 -- and Fuji handles high-ISO noise pretty well, certainly better than the Canon DSLRs I had did.
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Apr 8, 2020 10:20
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Yeah the X-T30 with a OIS lens would fit the bill
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Apr 8, 2020 11:13
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Easychair Bootson posted:Yeah the X-T30 with a OIS lens would fit the bill Something like this? Finger Prince: That's really good info but that Panasonic is a little bit out of my price range. The Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark III and Fujifilm are around 1k. I could maybe get a used Sony A7 II *body* for around 1k and save up for a lens. However the weather proofing and low light stuff is a big seller for me and that Panasonic is definitely impressive for those features. Hm. harperdc: Thanks! Noise is what I am trying to get away from. Photogrammetry is really sensitive to noise so that's the one thing I am trying to avoid at all costs. I like the idea of fujifilm's film filters etc. but not when making photo scans. sigma 6 fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Apr 8, 2020 |
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Apr 8, 2020 22:51
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I have a Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8 VR that I've been reluctant to give up after switching to mirrorless and I want to try using it with my XT20. I'm digging around looking at adapter rings and I was wondering if anyone could confirm that I'd be able to control the aperture with one of these? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OONK89W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.adorama.com/kafjxnkg.html
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Apr 9, 2020 00:26
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| # ? May 26, 2024 21:55 |
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sigma 6 posted:Something like this? Yep, don’t pay $300 for it though. You can get a mint used one for like $150. Great, small, lightweight lens. My only complaint about it is the “power” zoom ring. The 18-55/2.8-4 would also be a good choice. Under $300 used.
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Apr 9, 2020 01:49
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