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Putting on my summer wheels / tires. Looks like the shop didn't leave any chalk marks for their position. Do I just put them on randomly I guess?
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Mar 22, 2020 02:47
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Charles posted:Putting on my summer wheels / tires. Looks like the shop didn't leave any chalk marks for their position. Do I just put them on randomly I guess? I mean.......they fit over the studs. Any position the do that in is just the same as any other position.
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Mar 22, 2020 03:20
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Motronic posted:I mean.......they fit over the studs. Any position the do that in is just the same as any other position. I think he meant corner - LR/RR/LF/RF.
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Mar 22, 2020 03:38
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IOwnCalculus posted:I think he meant corner - LR/RR/LF/RF. That would make a lot more sense. It's still kinda the same answer absent looking at tire wear and knowing if this is a FWD/RWD/AWD.
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Mar 22, 2020 03:43
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Also if the op has TPMS sensors that are position dependent.
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Mar 22, 2020 04:06
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Motronic posted:That would make a lot more sense. It's still kinda the same answer absent looking at tire wear and knowing if this is a FWD/RWD/AWD. Sorry, FWD, Mazda 3, tire wear all looks about the same, non-directional, they barely have any wear. I put em whereever.
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Mar 22, 2020 04:45
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MRC48B posted:Also if the op has TPMS sensors that are position dependent. Please let me know what vehicle that exists on so I can cross it off any list ever. That doesn't even make any sense to be a thing.
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Mar 22, 2020 05:12
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Motronic posted:Please let me know what vehicle that exists on so I can cross it off any list ever. I think by that they just mean they're programed to report they're in a certain location. Lots of GM vehicles show the pressure per corner, and even though my Ford Escape doesnt say the pressures for each, it was programmed in an order.
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Mar 22, 2020 05:35
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Thankfully it seems like most TPM-systems automatically sense the new location and reprograms accordingly. Phew. Scared me for a moment there.
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Mar 22, 2020 08:00
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Some/alot? GM you had to "program". Involved a doughnut shaped magnet around the stem. You started at a certain corner and the car would honk letting you know to go to the next. Speaker magnet would work but was more of a PITA.
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Mar 22, 2020 13:24
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C-Bangin' it 
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MrOnBicycle posted:Thankfully it seems like most TPM-systems automatically sense the new location and reprograms accordingly. Phew. Scared me for a moment there. Except for my wife's '14 Malibu. It kept reporting that the right rear tire was low, she'd check it & it would be fine. I located the leaky tire at the left front. She'd gotten the tires rotated at some point.
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Mar 22, 2020 16:05
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My BMW seemed to forget what tire was where one time. Either that or one of the rears lost a couple of psi at the same time one of the fronts gained a couple of psi. It was back to normal the next drive. 
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Mar 22, 2020 16:15
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Rock My Socks! posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkKsBq4-m2E Bumping this. This isn’t what spark or rod knock would sound like, right?
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Mar 22, 2020 17:39
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MrOnBicycle posted:Thankfully it seems like most TPM-systems automatically sense the new location and reprograms accordingly. Phew. Scared me for a moment there. I was pleasantly surprised that when I put new wheels on my Mustang this weekend, I was able to buy 4 new TPMS sensors for $30 on eBay and everything autolearned within 10 minutes of driving including wheel location. Was really nice.
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Mar 22, 2020 17:53
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Rock My Socks! posted:Bumping this. This isn’t what spark or rod knock would sound like, right? All I can really hear is a clunking noise that sounds like road noise. If that's what you're talking about, and it isn't road noise, then that sounds like suspension or tie rod or something not engine. I hear nothing with the engine, sorry - I'm on laptop speakers though
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Mar 22, 2020 18:18
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Does the noise vary by speed? Noticed you kept it constant. Does it make the sound at idle? If it's rod knock you'll know it. But to my ears sounds like an unhappy corner/tire. If the dealer just whipped it around the lot or drove around some low speed block that could be why they said all-ok.
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Mar 22, 2020 18:49
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Colostomy Bag posted:Does the noise vary by speed? Noticed you kept it constant. The noise definitely correlates with engine speed (not the speed that the car is moving)...when I apply throttle it shows up, as soon as I take my foot off the gas it immediately stops. It also only happens in drive; if I rev the engine in park or neutral, nothing can be heard. It sounds totally normal at idle other than the normal light ticking that DI engine always make. Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Mar 22, 2020 |
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Mar 22, 2020 19:10
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I'm painting an inlet manifold and other parts on a car from the 60s with some VHT silver caliper-type paint, is it a super big deal if I don't mask up the mating surfaces and paint over them? The paint isn't thick at all, you can still see all the casting irregularities on the surface if that changes anything.
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Mar 22, 2020 19:19
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I wouldn't risk it, I'd mask any mating surface.
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Mar 22, 2020 20:13
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Not sure if I should ask here or in the Gadgets forum, but I just bought a 2011 Nissan Quest SL (SE?) and cannot for the life of me get the Bluetooth to pair to my phone. I hit the "Pick up handset" button on the steering wheel and then tell it to add a phone, but my Android phone sees nothing when the car says it's discoverable. I've cleared the Bluetooth cache on my phone, too; same deal. Am I just boned? Should I just get a Bluetooth adapter for the aux port? Of so, Amy recs for a decent and cheap one?
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Mar 24, 2020 03:53
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Organic Lube User posted:Not sure if I should ask here or in the Gadgets forum, but I just bought a 2011 Nissan Quest SL (SE?) and cannot for the life of me get the Bluetooth to pair to my phone. It doesn't pair for general audio. It's for phone only. Ed: My son has a 2011 Juke, so we've been through this thoroughly already. Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Mar 24, 2020 |
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Mar 24, 2020 03:58
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I got this from Amazon, and it works pretty well. Too soon to give a full review, but it paired alright with my phone and it even pauses and starts playback with the button.
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Mar 24, 2020 04:20
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nitsuga posted:I got this from Amazon, and it works pretty well. Too soon to give a full review, but it paired alright with my phone and it even pauses and starts playback with the button. I've had two of those for a year now (though the Mpow version, looks identical). Works great for audio playback. If you have it charging and your stereo set to AUX you'll get a fair bit of noise. But as soon as your start playback noise goes away. The mic is poo poo, have to yell for voice calls. Bad for that. My only complaint is around my work truck, I have to remember to turn it off or switch BT off on my phone. Since it runs on its own power, phone will stay paired even if truck stereo is off. Seems obvious, but I forget it all the time and I'll be yelling "Hello? Hello?" and the phone is sending all audio to the BT instead of handset.
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Mar 24, 2020 04:47
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2007 Nissan Versa S 1.8L with an exhaust leak where the exhaust manifold meets the catalytic converter pipe. I need to fix this leak as cheaply as humanly possible due to myself and my wife likely about to lose our jobs. It's not our only car so I have time to gently caress around with it myself. I have air tools but no welder but I have a friend who does and is capable with it (although he's elderly and this isn't a good time to be at his place). Can I chop out the section with the flange and the springs and poo poo and just put in a section of pipe (either weld it if I can, or just get a tube of that exhaust pipe sealant goop and put a section of new pipe). The car nor this repair need to last forever, just a year or so. 2011 Toyota Tundra loving bluetooth has to pretty much be re-paired every time I drive the loving thing. I have to go into the BT settings on the radio and manually select my phone and then on my phone I have to manually select the truck's BT device.
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Mar 25, 2020 02:59
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two_beer_bishes posted:2007 Nissan Versa S 1.8L with an exhaust leak where the exhaust manifold meets the catalytic converter pipe. I just did this job in February on this exact vehicle. I thought it was a cracked manifold, and it turned out to be only the soft metallic doughnut flange gasket had worn out. It's this fucker: Walker Exhaust Flange Gasket 31364 https://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/exhaust-flange-gasket/walker-exhaust-flange-gasket-31364/278317_209621_0 If you can get the nuts off, you're in tall cotton, and can just replace the gasket. If they round off, otherwise bitch, or shear, you're in for a fun time trying to back out the studs; they are threaded into the exhaust manifold flange, and it's really tight working in there with Vise-Grips. I wound up using a cutoff wheel on the studs & springs because after 13-years of heat/cool cycles they weren't moving either. I was unconcerned since I was replacing the manifold anyway & had purchased the aftermaket flange stud/bolt kit from AutoZone, which worked perfectly. If you decide to replace the exhaust manifold, you must first remove the intake manifold. It was the better call in my case. The manifolds are available on eBay for less than $100. Get one with a heatshield since you will probably Conan yours off. Word of warning: if you decide to go the replacement route, it is required to remove the throttle body from the manifold to get to a hidden manifold mounting bolt. Do not, under any circumstances, unplug the wiring harness from the throttle body. Since this is a throttle-by-wire setup, to do so will screw up the idle settings, and you will probably have to take it to the dealer to re-learn the idle postions, which cost me $300. The shadetree instructions for doing it at home did not work. Removing the exhaust manifold was a giant rear end-pain because you can't access the manifold-to-block nuts without first removing the heatshield, and just getting a wrench on the heatshield bolts is fun, after which they wind up rounding off because you can't get penetrant to them. I had to cut the thing off with a rotary cutter & a sawzall just to get access to the manifold nuts. Once you have the manifold off it's fun getting the new manifold in & getting the thing connected at the flange end as there's not much play on the cat pipe & you're working in tight confines as well. Take your time. I had trouble because my 'new' manifold had the factory studs still installed. Remove them on the bench prior to installation, it'll give you way more room to work it in, and the aftermarket kit provides bolts that go all the way through into the flanges anyway. If it's still tight, you might consider hacking off the flange bolts further back to get some play out of the cat pipe & just replace those flange bolts as well. Of course, then this happened last Thursday:  One trip to the yard, and a full Saturday later: 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Mar 25, 2020 |
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Mar 25, 2020 03:54
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This is the best "car forum" anywhere because of poo poo just like this.
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Mar 25, 2020 04:01
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Holy poo poo thank you so much for that!
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Mar 25, 2020 12:49
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PainterofCrap posted:Word of warning: if you decide to go the replacement route, it is required to remove the throttle body from the manifold to get to a hidden manifold mounting bolt. Do not, under any circumstances, unplug the wiring harness from the throttle body. Since this is a throttle-by-wire setup, to do so will screw up the idle settings, and you will probably have to take it to the dealer to re-learn the idle postions, which cost me $300. The shadetree instructions for doing it at home did not work. Can you not just disconnect the battery and wait a few minutes? So long as the throttle blade doesn't get touched (at all), with the battery disconnected I don't see why it'd need a reprogram.
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Mar 25, 2020 14:26
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STR posted:Can you not just disconnect the battery and wait a few minutes? So long as the throttle blade doesn't get touched (at all), with the battery disconnected I don't see why it'd need a reprogram. Not knowing any better, I DID move the throttle blade - I cleaned out the body (it needed it badly), so maybe it would be fine otherwise. On reassembly, the car ran, and drove fine; it just had a high & surging idle & would keep throwing a code for unusually high idle (outside of expected range). I tried the battery - in fact, pulling the battery was the only way to get CELs during reset attempts (the light would come on, but no codes would show in my reader until I did a battery disconnect )Nothing worked. I think it had to do with the drive-by-wire, and moving the butterfly. There's a whole dog & pony show to re-learn the idle - I spent a day & a half trying it countless times - none of it worked. It was the first time I had ever broken down & taken a car to a dealer/repair shop for anything I should have been able to fix, and felt really low when I dropped it off. I felt a lot better when I picked it up & realized that there wasn't a damned thing I could have done to remedy the situation without involving Nissan's $35,000 machine that goes ping! The mechanic's advice when I picked it up: "never, ever unplug the TB" I mean, YMMV. If one wants to try the magical hokey-pokey, it might work. It just didn't for me/this car. For what it's worth: leaving the TB plugged in & hanging around under the hood works fine, there's plenty of room to swing it out of the way, and it's well outside of your work field, so little chance of damage. You could wrap it in a rag in a pinch. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Mar 25, 2020 |
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Mar 25, 2020 15:45
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PainterofCrap posted:Not knowing any better, I DID move the throttle blade - I cleaned out the body (it needed it badly), so maybe it would be fine otherwise. Bingo. I did the same thing several times on my Saturns, and on the first one, there was one occasion where the idle went high/bouncing, but it eventually stopped after I R&R'd it and replaced the TB gasket (I assume I bumped the blade roughly back to where it should have been when I did that). On the other, I wound up having to replace the throttle body - I couldn't get it to stop with the high idle, and no amount of re-learns would get it to stop (the GM re-learn is pretty simple, at least on earlier Ecotecs). Grabbed a junkyard TB, hosed it down with cleaner since it was nasty, but didn't touch the blade. Plugged it in, reset the ECU, and it fired right up and went to a normal idle.
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Mar 25, 2020 16:51
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Pollyanna posted:Lol if you think I can be trusted with a drill. So guess what? I never reported this to Progressive, and I only ended up at the Honda dealership around October of last year. I really put this off. When I let the Honda guy know about the damage, he said that it was something insurance would cover. Now, it's been over a year since the damage occurred, and I doubt Progressive would still take this. I assumed that I would have to pay out of pocket to fix this anyway, but should I try reporting it to Progressive anyway? Their online claim submission says that the incident has to have happened within the past year, but I only learned that it was covered by insurance late last year. (The other option is to claim that it happened this winter, but I know better than to lie to insurance.) And yeah, I did drift stitch it in the end. It's been fine so far, but it's time to get it fixed. Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Mar 25, 2020 |
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Mar 25, 2020 17:19
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If you have collision, then yes, it will be covered, but your rates may go up. It may be cheaper (overall, not up front) to have a shop fix it.
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Mar 25, 2020 17:25
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How often should I expect to replace upgraded light bulbs? I'm looking to replace the crap low beams on my car with Philips's +100 X-tremeVision bulbs. The best estimate I've seen on how often you should replace bulbs like these is yearly.
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Mar 25, 2020 17:33
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6 months to a year, in my experience, though that's when I was driving 30-50k a year, and with the XtremeVision/XtremePower. Their output also diminishes to about the same as a regular bulb when they're getting close to the end of their life. What bulbs does your car use? If it uses 9005 or 9006 for the low beams, you're much better off going with 9011 or 9012 bulbs and trimming the base slightly to fit. There used to only be a couple of companies making them (Toshiba and someone else), but they're fairly common now, just a bit more expensive than your original bulbs. You'll have much longer life vs the +60/100/etc bulbs, same wattage draw, and the filament placement is exactly the same, so no blinding anyone. I can personally attest that 9011/HIR1 made a noticeable difference vs the 9005s my car used.
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Mar 25, 2020 17:41
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Motronic posted:This is the best "car forum" anywhere because of poo poo just like this. SA is crazy like this, not just AI, but ask/tell and other parts. I swear you could post something in Ask Tell like "Tell me about raising Alpacas in the Andes mountains" or some poo poo, and less than 24 hours later someone will come along with "I grew up on an Alpaca farm in the Andes mountains" and then post the most useful poo poo ever. SA never fails to amaze me.
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Mar 25, 2020 17:56
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PainterofCrap posted:Not knowing any better, I DID move the throttle blade - I cleaned out the body (it needed it badly), so maybe it would be fine otherwise. On reassembly, the car ran, and drove fine; it just had a high & surging idle & would keep throwing a code for unusually high idle (outside of expected range). Do you own a scantool? Might be worth investing in one if you don't.
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Mar 25, 2020 18:51
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spankmeister posted:Do you own a scantool? Might be worth investing in one if you don't. There ain’t one that’ll do an idle re-learn for this car. I looked. I did buy a new TB and installed it. No change. I was able to return it the same day
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Mar 25, 2020 19:17
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Oh there is a tool that will, but it probably has a Snap On logo on it.
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Mar 25, 2020 20:15
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Guess the problem I'm having to reconcile is if your battery was toast so is the calibration for throttle learning?
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Mar 25, 2020 20:46
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STR posted:If you have collision, then yes, it will be covered, but your rates may go up. Well, it wasn't a collision, as much as the bumper got caught on some ice. I guess insurance doesn't care.
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Mar 26, 2020 01:22
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