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What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
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| Perennials! |
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142 | 20.91% |
| Annuals! |
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30 | 4.42% |
| Woody plants! |
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62 | 9.13% |
| Succulent plants! |
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171 | 25.18% |
| Tropical plants! |
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60 | 8.84% |
| Non-vascular plants are the best! |
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31 | 4.57% |
| Screw you, I'd rather eat them! |
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183 | 26.95% |
| Total: | 679 votes | ||
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Went to a nursery yesterday and got some things. Quince, abelia, mugo pine, mexican petunia, eastern snowball viburnun, spirea, guara, russian sage, some dahlias, and alyssum. The ranunculus I got at lowes two weeks ago and has already put on new growth,  
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Mar 23, 2020 01:58
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It feels weird to order compost online. Is it weird? I want to dress my beds before it's annual time. I was also a dumbfuck and showed a bunch of wildflower seeds on the bare native soil that I want to dress. I was just so excited!
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Mar 23, 2020 02:30
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hooah posted:Is there anything similar to a purple heart/wandering Jew that can survive a frost while in a hanging pot? I'm guessing no, since no one responded?
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Mar 23, 2020 03:21
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hooah posted:I'm guessing no, since no one responded? My wondering jew (the plain purple Tradescantia pallida one) that's in the ground can take a light frost, but a heavy one will usually kill it to the ground for the winter. If heavy frosts frosts are rare, could you bring the pot in or cover it? Lots of folks here do that with hanging baskets of ferns. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Mar 23, 2020 |
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Mar 23, 2020 03:23
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:My wondering jew (the plain purple Tradescantia pallida one) that's in the ground can take a light frost, but a heavy one will usually kill it to the ground for the winter. If heavy frosts frosts are rare, could you bring the pot in or cover it? Lots of folks here do that with hanging baskets of ferns. Yeah, I had been bringing them in if it was going to get below freezing, but I've neglected to do that once or twice and now both of them (hanging pots) are dead. Plus it's a pain in the butt to bring all my wife's delicate plants in several times a winter.
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Mar 23, 2020 04:02
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Bi-la kaifa posted:It feels weird to order compost online. Is it weird? I want to dress my beds before it's annual time. I was also a dumbfuck and showed a bunch of wildflower seeds on the bare native soil that I want to dress. I was just so excited! I had compost and potting soil delivered by the local garden store this year because of the virus and all. It's just someone else burning the fuel to bring it to your house.
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Mar 23, 2020 04:06
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I. M. Gei posted:PI seems to think that strong lemon scents work well also. What are some strongly lemon-scented things I can use that won’t totally acidify my soil? There’s a real cute evergreen that I’ve seen sold that you could look into: Cupressus macrocarpa “Wilma” or as sold under Monrovia “Montgomery cypress Wilma Goldcrest.” Very cute little tree that has a strong citrus odor. As far as I can tell they are quite weather hardy too
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Mar 23, 2020 11:11
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hooah posted:I'm guessing no, since no one responded? How heavy of a frost are we talking here? If you’re just looking for a vine-thing, we’ve had success overwintering a clematis outside here in zone 7, dies to ground but has come back with gusto. You could also do some native trumpet honeysuckle (Lonicera semperivens) which I’m not sure can actually die to any adversity ReapersTouch posted:Went to a nursery yesterday and got some things. Quince, abelia, mugo pine, mexican petunia, eastern snowball viburnun, spirea, guara, russian sage, some dahlias, and alyssum. Nice haul! If you have any issues with bunnies, keep an eye on that guara if you put it in the ground. The one we have in a pot is very happy and safe, but the one in the garden has been promptly owned each spring by bunnies murdering all the new growth, so he has a very schizophrenic growth habit now Oil of Paris fucked around with this message at 11:48 on Mar 23, 2020 |
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Mar 23, 2020 11:28
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Oil of Paris posted:How heavy of a frost are we talking here? Maaaaybe upper 20s. We've got (or well, we had) them hanging by our front door. So we're not looking for something that climbs.
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Mar 23, 2020 12:57
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My local ag extension has compost. Take a five gallon bucket's worth, leave two dollars. A perfect system, no one is low enough in new Jersey to steal poop. Rah rah. edit: Bought more grow bags. My squashes need homes. Suspect Bucket fucked around with this message at 14:40 on Mar 23, 2020 |
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Mar 23, 2020 13:46
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Oil of Paris posted:Nice haul! If you have any issues with bunnies, keep an eye on that guara if you put it in the ground. The one we have in a pot is very happy and safe, but the one in the garden has been promptly owned each spring by bunnies murdering all the new growth, so he has a very schizophrenic growth habit now Thanks, we haven't seen any around in the few years we have lived here, but ya never know. I originally wanted oakleaf hydrangea in the backyard, but its gonna get too much sun once we get into summer. I'll have to let the crape myrtles I planted last year get some growth on them so I can plant underneath. I also moved the lantana we had in the front of the house to the backyard, which should get way more sun than it did last year.
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Mar 23, 2020 14:54
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Oil of Paris posted:There’s a real cute evergreen that I’ve seen sold that you could look into: Cupressus macrocarpa “Wilma” or as sold under Monrovia “Montgomery cypress Wilma Goldcrest.” Very cute little tree that has a strong citrus odor. As far as I can tell they are quite weather hardy too This is a neat idea, but unfortunately I don’t think there’s a place to put it where it wouldn’t steal space and light from my fruit trees or get in the way of foot traffic. I barely managed to find places to plant my peach and cherry trees, and frankly I’m not 100% sure even they have enough space to grow.
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Mar 23, 2020 22:01
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I need y’all to recommend me good landscape edging. Something I can shape into a circle that goes in the ground easy. I bought some of these things at Lowes and they are abject loving dogshit. They’re impossible to get in the ground when linked and impossible to link when in the ground.
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Mar 23, 2020 22:14
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Depends what kind of a look you're going for. I like building little rock walls out of... rocks. Big flat ones. Concrete bricks or any kind of masonry look good if you stack em right.
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Mar 23, 2020 22:25
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We use these: https://www.lowes.com/pd/COL-MET-Black-Powder-Coat-Steel-Landscape-Edging-Section/1000576017 They've been working well with our rounded beds. Easy to move around if need be.
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Mar 24, 2020 02:31
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I like bricks that set into the ground so the mower wheel can ride on them, but that's a good bit of work on long runs. Monkey grass (except it gets all kinds of stuff growing up out of it) or nothing and weed eat/edge to keep the grass out are 2nd and 3rd choices. I've never found anything that I thought looked good and I particularly liked and was easy to mow around.
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Mar 24, 2020 02:46
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Bi-la kaifa posted:Depends what kind of a look you're going for. I like building little rock walls out of... rocks. Big flat ones. Concrete bricks or any kind of masonry look good if you stack em right. I don’t particularly care how it looks. I just need something to keep the grass from growing over the mulch around my trees.
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Mar 24, 2020 03:14
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You could get good at using a string trimmer and edge it regularly to keep a nice clean edge. Personally I think that looks best for trees with mulch around them.
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Mar 24, 2020 04:16
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cheese posted:I went ahead and thinned it again. I just pulled out clumps and made a bunch of quarter sized dirt patches, then attacked any especially thick areas a little more closely. Impossible to figure out which seedlings are strong and which are just different varieties. Its no where near thinned the way you suggested, but I pulled out about a basketball of greenery and I'm willing to fertilize to get flowers. Lots of learnings from this bed, as they say. Yeah this is part of the issue, if you leave them to fight it out usually one variety will grow faster / bigger leaves and you'll wind up losing most of the other ones. On the other hand the fastest and biggest shoot rn could just be weeds...
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Mar 24, 2020 05:17
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 I FINALLY GOT ALL MY TREES IN THE GROUND at 2 in the fuckin morning lolThey’re a bit more developed than I expected and they don’t quite reach the eyeholes on my trellis, so I’m gonna move the lower part of that down a bit so I can go ahead and get them started on branching outward. I’ll post pics when that’s done; it should only take two or three days at most. What’s a good mulch wood for apple and peach trees? Or does it matter? I’ve already got cypress mulch for my cherry trees.
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Mar 25, 2020 00:31
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I. M. Gei posted:
Smallish pine bark nuggets or oak leaves are my favorite, but mostly because they are cheap/free and rot to make good dirt. Pine straw looks nice but it can form a solid mat that water won't get through and it doesn't rot into anything nice. Cypress takes forever to rot and they cut down good trees just to mulch and that hurts my feelings.
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Mar 25, 2020 01:45
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I've always just used bark mulch. Don't pile it against the trunk.
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Mar 25, 2020 02:37
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Are there any particular advantages or disadvantages to cedar mulch? Other than smelling good and costing slightly more than pine bark stuff at Lowes?
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Mar 25, 2020 05:17
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Don’t worry so much about min-maxing things.
Solkanar512 fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Mar 26, 2020 |
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Mar 25, 2020 14:10
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Yeah for me cheap is the way to go. I pay like 12.50 once maybe twice a year for a giant backhoe to dump a 3 cubic yard scoop of mulch from the yard waste section of the municipal dump into my truck bed. It’s so heavy I look like I’m low riding but once I get home I can mulch at least two of the gardens 
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Mar 25, 2020 23:19
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Those who know better, feel free to correct me, but I thought cedar was toxic to other plants. I've been told to only use cedar mulch on walkways, or other places where you don't want any plants to grow, never as a garden or tree mulch.
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Mar 26, 2020 00:36
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I don't know specifically about cedar, but does seem that much of the weed control organic mulches provide is from dead plant parts releasing growth inhibiting chemicals as they break down, not shading out weed seeds/seedlings. To quote my favorite garden book, written by two professors of horticulture at LSU:"Gardening in the Humid South" posted:Mulch made of plant materials is an excellent weed control in the garden--but. Most of the weed control effect is probably from allelopathic (meaning harmful to similar plants) chemicals released as breakdown products from the mulch. It seems likely that any mulch is at least slightly toxic to the crop it protects. Another problem is that the decaying organic matter provides food and protection for plant-eating insects.
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Mar 26, 2020 03:17
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Fertilized all my plants and trees with a slow release yesterday and I just sown most of my bag of wildflower seeds I got from Eden Brothers today. I'm a few weeks away from the final frost date, but I have a feeling that we're not gonna have another freeze this year. Here's hoping I get a nice spot for pollinators soon. Anyone have any experience with solitary bee houses?
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Mar 26, 2020 16:54
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 It is bringing forth a mighty stench. Time to go outside!
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Mar 26, 2020 20:42
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Today I put edging and pine bark mulch around all of my trees. Tomorrow I’m going to start lowering the bottom part of my wall trellis. If I’m lucky I’ll be able to finish all of that in one day.
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Mar 27, 2020 03:49
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Tremors posted:
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Mar 27, 2020 03:57
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Have any of y’all ever used Stark Tre-Pep fertilizer? Apparently it’s a gentle formula that’s made to be used on new trees at the time of transplanting, and then once every 10 days or so after that throughout the growing season? I ordered a big bag of it awhile back and I’m thinking I might go ahead and try it out.
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Mar 27, 2020 04:13
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I would not recommend fertilizing newly transplanted trees (especially bare root) except to correct signs of a nutrient deficiency. Let them settle in for a year and get some roots going, and then you can try and push more growth. That’s a very high nitrogen fertilizer that is going to try and make the trees grow a bunch of leaves that they may not have the roots to support yet. If you can’t help yourself, I’d go with a gentle, slow release, lower nitrogen fertilizer like osmocote or miracle-gro for vegetables/flowers. Miracle gro also is good at having all the little micronutrients that many other fertilizers don’t have. I would still wait a few weeks after transplanting to fertilize.
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Mar 27, 2020 13:06
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I would not recommend fertilizing newly transplanted trees (especially bare root) except to correct signs of a nutrient deficiency. Let them settle in for a year and get some roots going, and then you can try and push more growth. That’s a very high nitrogen fertilizer that is going to try and make the trees grow a bunch of leaves that they may not have the roots to support yet. Yeah, I'd have to echo a lot of this - bare root trees, Japanese maples, whatever just put them in the ground, water them well, prune if immediately needed and that's it. Worry about fertilizers when they have the root structures to properly take up those nutrients. This is a marathon that can last longer than you, not a sprint. Good note about Miracle Gro, I just tended to buy it because it was a recognizable name.
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Mar 27, 2020 14:46
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Orchids are one of the only plants I said I would never get because I knew they were finicky and I would probably kill them. So, of course, I received an orchid as a gift... and it's dying. It got extensive root rot from sitting in wet, super compacted sphagnum moss (brown & squishy roots, as well as hollow withered ones). It has just been placed in new, looser, higher quality media, and I cut off all the dead roots that I could so that it looks like the attached photos. I really need some advice on how to help get this thing out of its death throes, but I realize it might be too far gone. The white/yellow roots aren't dead but they don't exactly seem healthy either. The longest one seems alive at the beginning and end but is withered in the middle so I left the whole thing there for now. The bottom of the plant where the roots attach it is grey but doesn't seem soft - is this normal or has the rot reached beyond the roots? The flowers have started to wither slightly and a tiny newer leaf fell off yesterday. The remaining leaves all look really health so far... Aaaaah!   
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Mar 27, 2020 15:46
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I. M. Gei posted:Have any of y’all ever used Stark Tre-Pep fertilizer? Apparently it’s a gentle formula that’s made to be used on new trees at the time of transplanting, and then once every 10 days or so after that throughout the growing season?
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Mar 27, 2020 19:20
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Said gently caress it today and made a little vegetable garden Before  After 
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Mar 28, 2020 12:38
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Jestery posted:Said gently caress it today and made a little vegetable garden gently caress yeah! What did you plant?
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Mar 28, 2020 15:55
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From front to back Radish Wombok Kale Silverbeet Okra And I have companion planted nasturtiums , spring onions and chives In the back there is an ad-hoc sweet potato patch and then behind that is some beets just chilling and growing. On the trellis is a a chokos growing
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Mar 28, 2020 22:29
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| # ? May 14, 2024 04:26 |
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Plants seem to be doing plant things real good now that the sun is coming around. My Haworthia that started putting out a shoot over a month ago decided it was time to flower:  And this little Echeveria purpusorum (maybe/probably) is going for it:   The cristate Opuntia subulata I found disheveled at Home Depot a while ago also seems to be recovering alright after repotting (it was a lot more root bound than I expected), but its weird shape is kinda hard to photograph:    If I catch up on all my plant chores does that mean I have to buy more plants? I assume that's how this works. Jestery posted:Said gently caress it today and made a little vegetable garden Looks pretty spiffy
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Mar 29, 2020 01:20
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