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Zedd posted:Link to current setup: https://nl.pcpartpicker.com/list/zTRrtp On the lower end, some of the big open world AAA type games are hampered enough by the CPU that a 1650 or even a super-cheap 570 is probably about right. OTOH if your friend plays mostly driving games you could go with a beefy GPU, because those tend to be very easy on CPU performance. A geforce 1660 or a radeon 5500XT 8GB are both decent cards currently at €230 and even though they might be a bit limited by CPU, they also would be worth carrying over if your friend upgrades. Depending on the budget, I'd put €30 or €50 of it into 2x2GB or 2x4GB more ram. Nilbog posted:Thoughts or suggestions? Does the MB I picked out require the bios update; how can I tell if it is already ok? Also got a warning about the M.2 shares bandwidth with a SATA port, but with only the one here plus the SATA HDD from my old computer, I think it is fine?  BIOS update: most motherboards from online shops have been updated by now. you can't know for sure until it arrives though. M.2 Sata: By "share" it means if you use the sata M.2 it disables the #3 port in the sata connector cluster. Else: a CPU cooler is always nice. You can even get one that fits the case! (Mostly joking, it's overpriced for what you get... but if you're committed to the aesthetic it's RGB and white. otherwise a hyper212 is currently the cheapest in canada-land.)
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Mar 29, 2020 03:09
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Klyith posted:otherwise a hyper212 is currently the cheapest in canada-land.) Thanks! I had heard that the wraith cooler on the Ryzen is pretty good. Is the cooler necessary for stock (i.e. not overclocking?) or maybe just helps with the fan noise?
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Mar 29, 2020 03:16
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Nilbog posted:Thanks! I had heard that the wraith cooler on the Ryzen is pretty good. Is the cooler necessary for stock (i.e. not overclocking?) or maybe just helps with the fan noise? It is adequate for CPU performance but not at all quiet, and tends to bounce RPM a lot when the CPU is idle and all the other fans are low. For anyone spending the dosh of your budget, $35 for a better heatsink is a no-brainer expense. Plus if you ever turn on PBO, that's pretty much overclocking. The CPU will boost extra to the limits of VRM and cooler.
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Mar 29, 2020 03:54
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I've decided to become rich and famous as a streamer/youtuber about Teamfight Tactics. I streamed a bit on my last desktop, which was fine but couldn't handle recording video higher than 720p. The game itself can be played on any computer, but what would a decent streaming/video editing desktop look like? Budget is ~$1500, flexible.
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Mar 29, 2020 03:59
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edit edit: holy poo poo it's working no idea what i did differently except take it apart and put it back together edit: I took this apart this morning to see if I could just put it all back together and have it work. Again, the VGA light is coming on, indicating the GPU is not detected or has failed. I've hooked HDMI and VGA monitors up to all ports and I can't get anything detected. mobo: bsi b450 gaming plus cpu: ryzen 1600 af gfx: rx570 The other night when we were assembling, we noticed the instructions called for us to put these brackets down  But the heat sink won't fit if we do that. It's got these spring loaded screws.  That aren't really compatible with the bracket.  I managed to install it but it was right on top of the cpu. is that okay? I apologize for all the posts. I've never done this before and am kinda winging it. FizFashizzle fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Mar 29, 2020 |
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Mar 29, 2020 05:26
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Howdy! Here's my current build: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i5-7500 3.4 GHz Quad-Core Processor Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H270N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2400 Memory Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Case: Fractal Design Node 202 HTPC Case Power Supply: Corsair SF 450 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply I originally built it as a web/video/family computer in January 2017 but am getting the itch to get back into gaming. I have a few questions:
I don't really have a budget but I don't want to spend lots of cash for diminishing returns, especially if I only need to add/upgrade a few things.
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Mar 29, 2020 17:26
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FizFashizzle posted:The other night when we were assembling, we noticed the instructions called for us to put these brackets down You only put the plastic brackets on if you have a clip-type heatsink. For the one you have with screws you need to remove them. Your mobo manual instructions have a page telling you to put the brackets on and then showing a clip-type sink, then the next page shows taking them off for a heatsink that looks like yours, with: quote:Important If you managed to somehow install the heatsink with the brackets still on you need to take it apart and remove the brackets.
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Mar 29, 2020 17:52
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Blinkz0rz posted:What components will I need to add/upgrade to make this into a low to mid-level gaming machine? Good news, all you need is a video card! The quad-core CPU is becoming a little bit limiting for a high-end gaming machine, but for your target it's fine. The node 202 supports most full-size GPUs, up to 310mm long. The one thing you'll want to do is make sure the case stands up on it's side rather than lying down, because the ventilation for the GPU is the bottom grille. The 1660 Super or 5700 are 2 of the best price/performance cards now, at $240 and just over $300. I would not get a 5700XT with your PSU. (If you pick the 1660S make sure to get a 2-fan, not the little 1-fan ones.)
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Mar 29, 2020 18:06
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Klyith posted:Good news, all you need is a video card! The quad-core CPU is becoming a little bit limiting for a high-end gaming machine, but for your target it's fine. That's great news. Any particular card you'd recommend or are they all basically the same?
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Mar 29, 2020 19:16
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Evga is a good brand for Nvidia cards, due to the warranty alone. For AMD, Powercolor or Sapphire make some of the better cards. If you want a relatively "plug and play" solution I would go for the 1660 Super.
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Mar 29, 2020 19:53
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Looks like my 970 is getting ready to kick the bucket. Whats a decent upgrade for 1440p gaming? hopefully at high/ultra settings, ive heard good things about the 1660 super and it looks relatively cheap too, cheaper than the 970 when i bought it.
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Mar 29, 2020 20:03
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I checked the first two pages and didn't see a better thread to ask in: If I wanted a pair of noise-canceling headphones, what's a reasonable amount of money to pay? I've seen anything from $50-$300, and I don't want to get a piece of crap that'll fall apart or not work, but I don't need some high-end audiophile bait either. Not doing anything incredibly technical with them, I just need something that'll block background noise while I work / concentrate.
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Mar 29, 2020 20:42
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Blinkz0rz posted:That's great news. Any particular card you'd recommend or are they all basically the same? Mr.Fuzzywig posted:Looks like my 970 is getting ready to kick the bucket. Whats a decent upgrade for 1440p gaming? hopefully at high/ultra settings, ive heard good things about the 1660 super and it looks relatively cheap too, cheaper than the 970 when i bought it. The Sapphire Pulse 5700XT and PowerColor Red Devil 5700XT are the kings of the 1440p bracket. Everyone seems to have a different tale about the drivers for them, though.
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Mar 29, 2020 20:42
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Mr.Fuzzywig posted:Looks like my 970 is getting ready to kick the bucket. Whats a decent upgrade for 1440p gaming? hopefully at high/ultra settings, ive heard good things about the 1660 super and it looks relatively cheap too, cheaper than the 970 when i bought it. Fabulousity posted:The Sapphire Pulse 5700XT and PowerColor Red Devil 5700XT are the kings of the 1440p bracket. At this point I'd seriously consider stretching for a 2070 Super over a 5700 XT. The 5700 XT is a good value performer, but it's had a lot of teething issues that make me hesitant to continue recommending it. On the flip side, the new iteration of DLSS upscaling on RTX is getting rave reviews - far fewer artifacts, excellent sharpening, and much wider adoption now that the algorithm is more generalized (and built into base Unreal Engine). Plus, the performance boost makes ray-tracing with a 2070 Super actually feasible at 1440p! The 1660 Super is a great 1080p card or 1440p/medium (high/ultra on older games), but you won't be getting close to 60 fps with everything cranked up on newer AAA games. Check out Babeltech's fairly comprehensive 1440p benchmarks for the 2070 Super / 5700 XT / 2060 Super and the 1660 / Super / Ti. Some of the game choices are getting a little older, so you might also want to look at specific games you might be interested in, like Control. E: Here's a benchmark and qualitative comparison of new DLSS implementation. It does still have to implemented on a per-game basis, but uptake is improving. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGG0R7t-UjI Stickman fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Mar 29, 2020 |
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Mar 29, 2020 21:03
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Red Dragon is the lower tier one. Red Devil is in the "costs a significant amount more, much larger but also better cooler, doesn't go faster though" tier with the Sapphire Nitro+.
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Mar 29, 2020 21:03
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If you do choose a 5700 XT, the Gigabyte gaming is also decent.
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Mar 29, 2020 21:06
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Tuxedo Catfish posted:I checked the first two pages and didn't see a better thread to ask in: You'll have better luck in the headphones thread in IYG.
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Mar 29, 2020 21:46
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ItBreathes posted:You'll have better luck in the headphones thread in IYG. Thanks, I'll give it a shot.
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Mar 29, 2020 22:03
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Stickman posted:The 5700 XT is a good value performer, but it's had a lot of teething issues that make me hesitant to continue recommending it. So I have a 5700 plain, and while I have experienced some of the driver issues, it hasn't been bad enough that I've ever regretted buying it. Also I feel like they've made progress in ironing out the problems since the start of the year. At this point I'd comfortably recommend them for anyone in these two groups: 1. PC users who are ok with the prospect of DDUing a driver that sucks to roll back to the one that worked better 2. the kind of guy who'd take a crisp $50 bill in exchange for a mild kick in the balls Also it's not all negatives with AMD's drivers. They've got a modern and snappy UI unlike the ancient nvidia control panel, and you don't need a separate app that requires register to use basic features. Not that this excuses the drivers having the problems they've had, but when they're not loving up they're much nicer to use. Tuxedo Catfish posted:If I wanted a pair of noise-canceling headphones, what's a reasonable amount of money to pay? I've seen anything from $50-$300, and I don't want to get a piece of crap that'll fall apart or not work I've got and like the frequently recommended Sony WH-1000XM3s (~$275). I like the sound, the battery life is good, and they swap between my phone and pc bluetooth easily. They don't noise-cancel as well as bose IEMs with noise cancelling that I've briefly tried before.
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Mar 29, 2020 23:28
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I'm starting to look at building a new computer in the next few months. The last time I built one was about ten years ago, so I'm way out of the loop on good components. I've mostly relied on RockPaperShotgun's build guides and what I've read in this thread. Here's where I'm at so far: What country are you in? USA What are you using the system for? Gaming and photo editing, primarily What's your budget? I'd like to get as close to $1000 as I can, but I could go as high as like $1200 if I stretch the build process out over an extra month or two If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? I'm currently using a 23" 60Hz 1080p monitor. How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? I rarely play super demanding AAA titles. I'd like to have the ability to play newish shooters (like Wolfenstein, R6: Siege, etc.) on medium or high settings at 60fps, but maybe that's out of my budget. Truth be told I still play Rocket League way more than anything else, but maybe with a better computer I'd take more of an interest in games I can't even look at right now. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($174.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: *ASRock X570 Phantom Gaming 4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($133.99 @ Newegg) Memory: *Team T-FORCE VULCAN TUF Gaming Allian 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($67.99 @ Newegg) Storage: *Team GX1 960 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($94.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.98 @ Newegg) Video Card: XFX Radeon RX 5600 XT 6 GB THICC II Pro Video Card ($279.99 @ B&H) Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($74.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: *Corsair TXM Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($103.97 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($106.99 @ Other World Computing) Total: $1092.88 My questions: 1. If I'm not doing any overclocking, is the stock cooler on the Ryzen 5 3600 good enough? I've really struggled with my current CPU cooler and want to keep it as straightforward as possible. That includes not overclocking. 2. I'm not against upgrading my video card in a few years if I decide to switch to a 1440p monitor. I'm really looking for reliable 1080p gaming and good value, but if the 5700 XT is that much better, I could maybe stretch and get it too. 3. A friend of mine is a VR developer, so it's possible I'll be able to buy a used headset from him at some point. From what I can tell, this build will be able to run VR games just fine? 4. I know even less about the remaining components than I do about processors and video cards, so if there are issues with any of these I'd love to know it.
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Mar 30, 2020 00:48
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Any good SSD bargains going on at the moment? I'm in Australia and want to spend $100 - $130 AUD for some steam faves and a few apps. I have a spare m.2 slot, but don't mind using SATA if it's all the same at that price point.
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Mar 30, 2020 00:54
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Cognac McCarthy posted:I'm starting to look at building a new computer in the next few months. The last time I built one was about ten years ago, so I'm way out of the loop on good components. I've mostly relied on RockPaperShotgun's build guides and what I've read in this thread. Here's where I'm at so far: For 1) (Anyone more knowledgeable correct me)The recommendation around here is still to pick up another cooler for a) sound, b) passive performance gains due to how Ryzen hits high clocks by boosting a single thread, where cooling helps significantly, and c) active performance gains by turning on PBO (in your BIOS I believe?) which basically gives the CPU carte blanche to OC itself as necessary within its limits, and cooler obviously helps very much here too. It'll work just fine with stock one, but air coolers are cheap enough while still being up to the job. I've seen the Arctic Freeze 34 recommended in tandem with the 3600. Not sure about the rest though.
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Mar 30, 2020 01:17
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Cognac McCarthy posted:Motherboard: *ASRock X570 Phantom Gaming 4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($133.99 @ Newegg) Instead get a b450 motherboard -- ignore pcpartpicker's warnings, most any b450 you buy now ships with a ryzen 3000 bios MSI B450 tomahawk max is the standard ITT (Asrock b450 Pro4 isn't as good and is missing features like debug leds, but is $20 cheaper if you're squeezing the budget) Cognac McCarthy posted:1. If I'm not doing any overclocking, is the stock cooler on the Ryzen 5 3600 good enough? I've really struggled with my current CPU cooler and want to keep it as straightforward as possible. That includes not overclocking. 1. It's good enough if you aren't noise sensitive. The major drawback to the OEM heatsink is a 2000 rpm fan and the fact that it tends to vary speed up and down even at idle. A cheap tower cooler is one of the better ways to use $30 though. 2. The 5600XT is not the best value -- at $280 the cheapest 5700s are only $20 more if you count rebates. And 1660 Supers are less expensive while still being a good 1080p card (and adequate 1440p). 3. Yes. 4. Don't buy Windows 10, use a 7 or 8 key from an old computer or buy a key from SA-mart or ebay.
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Mar 30, 2020 01:17
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Cognac McCarthy posted:I'm starting to look at building a new computer in the next few months. The last time I built one was about ten years ago, so I'm way out of the loop on good components. I've mostly relied on RockPaperShotgun's build guides and what I've read in this thread. Here's where I'm at so far: This is a lot of tweaks, but I'd do something like this: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($174.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports CPU Cooler ($35.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Best Buy) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($73.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Crucial MX500 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($114.99 @ Adorama) Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.98 @ Newegg) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB OC Video Card ($238.98 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($92.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.98 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($20.00) Total: $1021.87 CPU Cooler: An aftermarket cooler isn't strictly necessary, but the stock cooler can be annoyingly loud. Unfortunately, with Amazon electronics on hold until the end of April the cheapest options like a $20 Gammaxx 400 or standard Arctic Freezer 34 would be a long wait. The esports freezer 34 is still decently priced! Motherboard: The cheaper ASRock X570 boards are tough to recommend because they have spotty memory compatibility due to some trace layout issues. The Tomahawk MAX has everything you'd get with the Phantom, minus the second M.2 slot. If you don't care about usb-c (which the Phantom doesn't have anyway) then you could save a bit more with an MSi B450-A Pro MAX. Memory: The Team memory might be fine, but the G.Skill is definitely solid and only $5 more. Storage: It's a bit more expensive, but the MX500 is a solid, proven drive with much better warranty and endurance. Video Card: In my opinion, the 5600 XT isn't really worth the potential hassle at that price point. The 1660 Super has decently close performance (see "The Big Picture") and would be more than sufficient for games like R6. If you want a performance boost, the cheapest 2060 models are only $300 (or $320 if you want a model with a zero-rpm fan mode - i.e. fans turn off when card is idle). Case: The 200r is a good case, but it's starting to show it's age. The Meshify C has better airflow and is easier to work in! You won't go wrong with either, though. PSU: The Seasonic is solid, fully modular, cheaper, and has a 10-year warranty (vs the TXM's 7 years) OS: Get a Windows 10 Pro key from SAMart for $20 instead! Thirst Mutilator posted:For 1) (Anyone more knowledgeable correct me)The recommendation around here is still to pick up another cooler for a) sound, b) passive performance gains due to how Ryzen hits high clocks by boosting a single thread, where cooling helps significantly, and c) active performance gains by turning on PBO (in your BIOS I believe?) which basically gives the CPU carte blanche to OC itself as necessary within its limits, and cooler obviously helps very much here too. It'll work just fine with stock one, but air coolers are cheap enough while still being up to the job. I've seen the Arctic Freeze 34 recommended in tandem with the 3600. Yes, though right now sound is the important part (especially at 60 fps max, which won't be stressing a 3600). The passive and PBO performance gains are pretty tiny and mostly inconsequential for gaming. Stickman fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Mar 30, 2020 |
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Mar 30, 2020 01:25
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thanks for all your suggestions guys. This computer is running like a charm. and i got to put a game on max settings which hasn't happened since i played like deus ex 15 years later.
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Mar 30, 2020 03:10
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Thanks everybody, this is all super helpful. The price difference between the 5600 XT and the 5700s and 2060s is small enough (especially if I snag a cheap Windows 10 key - that's extra helpful advice) that one of those should be doable. That will hopefully keep me from needing to upgrade for a bit longer, too. Stickman posted:Case: The 200r is a good case, but it's starting to show it's age. The Meshify C has better airflow and is easier to work in! You won't go wrong with either, though.
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Mar 30, 2020 03:19
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Cognac McCarthy posted:Am I right that the 2.5" drive bays are for SSDs, and 3.5" are HDDs and optical drives? I've got a Blu-ray drive I'd like to carry over from my current build, as well as an SSD and 2 HDDs. The 200R has four each of the 2.5" and 3.5" bays, which was a big selling point for me. That's correct - the Meshify C doesn't have 5.25" bays for internal ODD drives and most newer cases eliminate them to make the case more compact and increase airflow. The 200r is a solid option if you really want the internal ODD bay, but you could also consider switching to an external drive, an enclosure (expensive if it's not slim-line), or just a sata->usb 3.0 powered adapter. There's also the Corsair 110q (or 110r if you don't mind a window). It's only a little bit more compact than the 200r, but it has better cable management routing and more airflow potential at the front of the case. You'd want to pick up one or two 140mm front intake fans, though, since it doesn't ship with any. E: The Fractal Design Focus G is another decent option with an ODD bay in that price range. It comes with 2x front intake fans, but there isn't a windowless version and the window is acrylic rather than tempered glass (so more prone to scratching). Stickman fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Mar 30, 2020 |
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Mar 30, 2020 03:55
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Stickman posted:Case: The 200r is a good case, but it's starting to show it's age. The Meshify C has better airflow and is easier to work in! You won't go wrong with either, though. Yeah, I've got a 200R and it's aged roughly, especially because there's tons of space wasted in the 5.25 bays that I don't use. I also find that the 2.5" bays are a huge pain in the rear end to access. Enough so that I've got my 2.5" drives slotted into 3.5" bay adapters so I can fit them into the 3.5 bays, which are easily accessible. It's also pretty fuckin' loud. It's fine if you're on a tight budget, like I was when I built this computer, but if you can afford nicer you should definitely do so IMO.
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Mar 30, 2020 03:58
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Stickman posted:That's correct - the Meshify C doesn't have 5.25" bays for internal ODD drives and most newer cases eliminate them to make the case more compact and increase airflow. The 200r is a solid option if you really want the internal ODD bay, but you could also consider switching to an external drive, an enclosure (expensive if it's not slim-line), or just a sata->usb 3.0 powered adapter. This one seems to have just about everything I need (the glass is whatever, I wouldn't seek it out necessarily but it seems to be very popular right now). It's about the same price as any of these other cases + a fan or two (or whatever adapter I'd need to get my drive enclosed/connected, and the reviews seem to indicate that it has good airflow.
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Mar 30, 2020 05:24
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Cognac McCarthy posted:This one seems to have just about everything I need (the glass is whatever, I wouldn't seek it out necessarily but it seems to be very popular right now). It's about the same price as any of these other cases + a fan or two (or whatever adapter I'd need to get my drive enclosed/connected, and the reviews seem to indicate that it has good airflow. Substantially better than the 200R! In a different direction, the bequiet 600 does not have great airflow, but is inexpensive (and very quiet at idle). About the only other really good case with 5.25" drives is the fractal define R6/7 which at $150+ is difficult at your budget. And yes windows are becoming difficult to avoid these days. One downside of that phantek window is made of acrylic, so it can be scratched easily. Baby it if you care about things like that. Khizan posted:It's fine if you're on a tight budget, like I was when I built this computer, but if you can afford nicer you should definitely do so IMO. A case is also the only part of your PC that doesn't devalue to nothingness almost instantly! A good case from 5 years ago is still a good case today. And some cases that are a dozen years old are pretty usable, if lacking in modern conveniences.
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Mar 30, 2020 05:56
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I've put together a new machine with a Ryzen 3700X and MSI B450 Tomahawk Max with 2 x 8GB of 3600 RAM. However the motherboard is reporting the RAM as running at 2133Mhz rather than 3600. Further research (which I should have done beforehand..) indicates that I might have bought the wrong memory - I have this memory with a D when perhaps I should have bought this memory with a Z - what are my options here? Do I need to return the memory and replace it?
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Mar 30, 2020 10:50
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Your RAM is running at default safe speeds programmed into the RAM, you have to turn on XMP/DOCP (different names for the same thing) in your BIOS to make it use the faster settings. E: Here's a FAQ entry by Corsair on it, too: https://help.corsair.com/hc/en-us/articles/360025282412-Run-DRAM-at-its-Rated-Speed-with-XMP - the last part is outdated, Ryzen chipsets can read XMP profiles too, sometimes the setting is called A-XMP or DOCP depending on the manufacturer's BIOS implementation. orcane fucked around with this message at 11:18 on Mar 30, 2020 |
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Mar 30, 2020 10:58
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orcane posted:Your RAM is running at default safe speeds programmed into the RAM, you have to turn on XMP/DOCP (different names for the same thing) in your BIOS to make it use the faster settings. Many thanks - this has worked and it is now running at 3600. Is there any meaningful distinction between the D and Z type modules? The Z are slightly cheaper but unless there is some important difference I'll just keep what I have.
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Mar 30, 2020 13:38
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kyojin posted:Is there any meaningful distinction between the D and Z type modules? The Z are slightly cheaper but unless there is some important difference I'll just keep what I have. Not really. AMD's memory controller is pickier about ram than intel's. So the Z one that's branded for AMD might have a different memory variant inside works better with it. Or maybe it's got the same stuff but some of the subtiming numbers are a bit worse (it's cheaper after all). What this actually means: keep the ram you have now if it works, but if you ever get another 2 sticks of ram because you want more memory, they may not work at 3600. Not a huge deal, you can set them down to 3533 or 3466 and never notice the difference.
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Mar 30, 2020 14:07
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How do I know if a 2.75 slot card will fit in my motherboard? There is enough space in the case for sure but I'm a little worried about those sata ports.
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Mar 30, 2020 15:47
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What case are you using?
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Mar 30, 2020 15:54
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I've got a Ryzen 3600 with the right ram, but it seems like it isn't using the CPU to its fullest extent. Things seem like they're getting capped out in high CPU-use cases, and things like Assassin's Creed runs just as badly as on the old system (but something like Doom runs great). Any optimization I'm missing, or is there a chance I got a dud?
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Mar 30, 2020 15:57
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SalTheBard posted:What case are you using? this thing (mid). I'm thinking the 2.75 width card will obstruct which is a little annoying as there is plenty of space behind the slot, if the motherboard had been designed a little differently there would be no issue.
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Mar 30, 2020 16:07
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zhar posted:How do I know if a 2.75 slot card will fit in my motherboard? There is enough space in the case for sure but I'm a little worried about those sata ports. You should still be able to use all the sata ports, just make sure to connect all your drives before putting in the card and you'll probably need to use some 90* or low profile sata connectors on the 6Gbps ports and possibly the two 3Gbps ports next to them (those might be clear of the card though). There's usually at least a centimeter or so between the board and the card so even if it's above them you can still connect them.
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Mar 30, 2020 16:20
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| # ? May 26, 2024 01:28 |
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Scruff McGruff posted:You should still be able to use all the sata ports, just make sure to connect all your drives before putting in the card and you'll probably need to use some 90* or low profile sata connectors on the 6Gbps ports and possibly the two 3Gbps ports next to them (those might be clear of the card though). There's usually at least a centimeter or so between the board and the card so even if it's above them you can still connect them. Thanks, my hope was there would be enough clearance. Another potential issue though, the gpu recommended psu is 650w+ and I have 600w. Is this likely to cause significant problems or would it just underperform by some amount at maximum use?
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Mar 30, 2020 16:23
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