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Splinter posted:That is a valid concern, have you used them before? There is a risk, but if you tighten/loosen with a hand tool (as opposed to power), work carefully/take your time and tighten/loosen each compressor somewhat evenly, the risk is fairly low imo. 22 Eargesplitten posted:E: If I do decide to re-use springs, do they really last 210k+ miles? I would think that they would have started to wear out by now even with how massive they are.
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Mar 27, 2020 14:25
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jamal posted:Appears correct, but oem axle prices are pretty nuts (also I just get 20421ae02c, not sure what that "8A" is for). I've had napa ones in my car for a pretty long time with no issues and they were like $80 a piece. I had a Napa axle in the front of my Brokeback when I got it, and it was a damned paint shaker. (it also had an original axle with a ripped boot, I assumed when I bought it that that was the source of the DTs) .... might be because the dickbeater that put it in left out the roll pin, but it still shook after getting a pin. I assume it probably wallowed out the female end a bit. It has (new, not reman) Advance/Carquest axles up front now, got rid of the shakes. Naked Bear posted:FWIW, I still have the original springs still on my '02 at 241k. The struts went out around 175k, I think. 146k on mine (03 Outback, basically a lifted Legacy wagon), and mine is dragging rear end bad enough that the rear wheels are noticeably cambered out. It really depends on how the car was used. Mine has a tow hitch on it, and given how sloppy it shifts and the wear marks on the hitch, I assume it had a lot of weight in the back plenty of times. The struts work in that it doesn't bounce off of the bumpstops, and only bounces once after hitting bumps, but they're long past their sell by date. Between the worn AF springs and struts, It's... kinda scary on curvy roads. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Mar 29, 2020 |
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Mar 29, 2020 17:00
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Well boys I have lost the war. Ended up cutting out the wheel bearing casing, all that was left was the axle inside the flange. More map gas, air hammer, regular hammer, press, repeat for six hours and the two pieces would not separate. Going to buy them new, this sucks balls. gently caress subaru.
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Mar 29, 2020 21:43
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I just had the weirdest charging problem on the 03. Original alternator was making a lot of noise and getting hot when I first got it going so I got a junkyard one to replace it. Figured out that it wasnt charging a couple days later when I had my scangauge hooked up and saw the voltage at 11.8. I had no idea it wasnt charging since the battery light wasnt on, this matters later on. I swapped the old alt back on and still no charging and no battery light even when turning the key to "on" during the light check. I figure no biggy the bulb is burned out and that will cause the no charge situation, pretty common. Pulled the gauge cluster out and swapped known good bulbs in and still no light during the check or when the engine is running with no charge, now its weird. I ground the wire that goes to the light from the alternator (from the green clip) and finally get the light to come on so I figure it has to be a ground problem from the alt to the engine or chassis and battery. I clean all the grounds I can find, the battery to chassis, engine to firewall, 3 grounds under the airbox on the pitch-stop mount, the one next to the coilpack, the one from the battery to engine near the starter and all the contacts from the alternator to its bracket. Hook the battery back up and STILL no light! As a last ditch I put the new alt back on and bingo! Light is fixed and its charging so it had to be one of the grounds that I cleaned and the original alt was bad. The engine also runs literally so much better, it didnt run too bad but the idle was kinda low and shaky and that is completely gone and it idles perfectly at 700 and is smooth in and out of gear. All the grounds were terrible and the lugs were just bolted on top of paint which I removed when I cleaned the grounds then sprayed battery terminal protector on them to protect them. Also the air conditioning started working again which I just thought might be low on refrigerant. I cant stress enough how much better a Subaru will run after cleaning the grounds, indisputable evidence that the factory grounds are poo poo. I couldnt find a schematic but I know the ground for the gauges on my GTI were on the back of the engine head and Im guessing one of the grounds on the pitch stop are for the gauges in this car. It makes sense that it fixed the battery light since all three grounds were absolutely covered in corrosion and bolted over paint, they were so bad.
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Mar 29, 2020 21:45
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shy boy from chess club posted:I just had the weirdest charging problem on the 03. Original alternator was making a lot of noise and getting hot when I first got it going so I got a junkyard one to replace it. Figured out that it wasnt charging a couple days later when I had my scangauge hooked up and saw the voltage at 11.8. I had no idea it wasnt charging since the battery light wasnt on, this matters later on. I swapped the old alt back on and still no charging and no battery light even when turning the key to "on" during the light check. I figure no biggy the bulb is burned out and that will cause the no charge situation, pretty common. Pulled the gauge cluster out and swapped known good bulbs in and still no light during the check or when the engine is running with no charge, now its weird. I ground the wire that goes to the light from the alternator (from the green clip) and finally get the light to come on so I figure it has to be a ground problem from the alt to the engine or chassis and battery. I clean all the grounds I can find, the battery to chassis, engine to firewall, 3 grounds under the airbox on the pitch-stop mount, the one next to the coilpack, the one from the battery to engine near the starter and all the contacts from the alternator to its bracket. Hook the battery back up and STILL no light! As a last ditch I put the new alt back on and bingo! Light is fixed and its charging so it had to be one of the grounds that I cleaned and the original alt was bad. this really reinforces my belief that I need to freshen up my grounds before I hit the track this summer. I put the wheels back on the car after finishing all the mods/maintenance I'm going to do for now and drove it around the other day and it had a bit of a chugging startup. The second time I turned it on it even seemed to stall out after starting. Runs fine while it's on but it still has signs of electrical problems since I changed the battery and alternator. Reminds me, tomorrow I should take some pics of the new ~lewk~
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Mar 30, 2020 01:12
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I don't know if I posted it in this thread but I also cleaned the grounds on my 97 with similar drastic results. It's so worth it and will be the first thing I check on future subies I work on
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Mar 30, 2020 01:25
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I have zero electrical issues, but I do get a bit of a low idle once the car is warm and in gear (~550-600). It's amplified by the dead motor mounts. Guess I should try cleaning them. Literally the only electrical issue right now is the "D" on the PRNDL display crapped out after I pulled the cluster to replace several burned out bulbs. The PRNDL bulb set is soldered in, so gently caress it, it's staying like that until I have good reason to pull the cluster again. Mine is super clean up top, absolutely filthy on the bottom from multiple fluid leaks (it pisses oil and ATF, and at the moment, coolant as well), but no corrosion anywhere except for a tiny bit on the rear subframe and rear diff cover (even southerners call this amount nothing given the age of the car, the only sign of how old it really is, is the exhaust is raspy as gently caress, with the original muffler). I need to get off my rear end and drop my new radiator in. New CSF radiator, mix of Gates and Dayco radiator hoses (had to play the warehouse/shipping game with Rockauto), and Dorman transmission cooler lines are all sitting here, along with distilled water and coolant. Supposed to rain today though, and I just worked 8 hours doing manual labor, so this seems much more attractive right now... except for the pollen, I'm gonna be sneezing so hard in about 30 minutes.  Anyone know roughly how much ATF I'm going to lose when I remove the original radiator and trans cooler hoses? It's the 2.5, so it's just the small cooler built into the radiator, not the separate cooler/relocated filter that the 3.0 gets. (03 Outback 2.5 auto for those who haven't followed the Brokeback story) I've, uh, never done a radiator on something with an automatic.  Just wanna make sure I buy enough ATF to top it off.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Mar 30, 2020 |
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Mar 30, 2020 14:19
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*emerges from vape fog*  Factory horns gave out. Both were shorted out on the multimeter. I drill out the connector on the old horn to plug up the unused electrical socket and took a look at the weather seals on the old horn:  Yea, thatll kill it. They hide well in the grill which I like. 
um excuse me fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Mar 30, 2020 |
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Mar 30, 2020 21:18
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Nice turbo replacement, ive heard those Hella Turbos are good for like 30-40 whp ::crackle of strawberry vape pen::
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Mar 30, 2020 21:41
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If you have a Subaru, you have to get the red horns. Don't forget the mud flaps too. Oh yeah, don't forget an annoying exhaust.
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Mar 30, 2020 22:12
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So, I got the dealer alignment under warranty. You only get one according to them. They said "it was out" but did not described how or give me the results sheet. It felt a little bit less farty, but now the wheel is 1-2 degrees off center. Am I just being picky / expecting too much from dealership alignments? Should I just pay a good shop to do it? Apologies for the blurry image. 
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Mar 30, 2020 22:28
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So....you took your car to a dealership and let strangers crawl all over it? I'm just trying to wrap my brain around that having been on a lockdown order for two weeks.
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Mar 30, 2020 22:37
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Charles posted:If you have a Subaru, you have to get the red horns. Don't forget the mud flaps too. Oh yeah, don't forget an annoying exhaust. *looks around nervously* 
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Mar 30, 2020 23:12
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Mr. Powers posted:So, I got the dealer alignment under warranty. You only get one according to them. They said "it was out" but did not described how or give me the results sheet. It felt a little bit less farty, but now the wheel is 1-2 degrees off center. Am I just being picky / expecting too much from dealership alignments? Should I just pay a good shop to do it? I've NEVER had good luck with dealer alignments, including BMW & Mercedes! Don't know what it is about them, or just bad luck. They don't seem to understand rear toe. Yelp / Google reviews for a good place and pay about $70-100
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Mar 30, 2020 23:53
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bull3964 posted:So....you took your car to a dealership and let strangers crawl all over it? I am essential, so I interact with way more people than touched the car on a daily basis.
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Mar 31, 2020 00:42
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Subaru goons, I believe someone said I can use the rear wheel bearing/hub unit from a 2005 legacy on my 2000. Is that correct? Subaru says the hub disc is NLA and I don't have time to go to pick and pull right now. Part number for reference 28473AG00B. Ty 4 all your help with this poo poo show.
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Mar 31, 2020 20:03
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:*looks around nervously* I, too, 2.5TS but my vape cloud exhaust noise is because the resonator pipe recently rust-departed the catalytic converter and because i am confined at home I have not attempted to fix it/have it fixed
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Mar 31, 2020 20:52
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https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/d/glendale-2008-subaru-sti-hatchback/7087440405.html What should this realistically sell for?
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Mar 31, 2020 22:23
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BlackMK4 posted:https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/d/glendale-2008-subaru-sti-hatchback/7087440405.html Ummm..... well not 9.5K with a dead motor obviously. It would have to be in tip top condition to get 8K otherwise
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Apr 4, 2020 10:19
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Ummm..... well not 9.5K with a dead motor obviously. It would have to be in tip top condition to get 8K otherwise Nope, the hatches seem to be going for a noticeable premium. The cheapest I see with similar milage is 11k on Autotrader, and most in the country are in the 12-15k range.
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Apr 4, 2020 23:25
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I was considering low balling him at $8k since it seems in decent shape. RA short blocks look hilariously cheap compared to what I am used to and I want a small project right now. Good idea or crackpipe?
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Apr 4, 2020 23:46
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BlackMK4 posted:I was considering low balling him at $8k since it seems in decent shape. RA short blocks look hilariously cheap compared to what I am used to and I want a small project right now. Provided the rest of the car is in good shape that sounds like an awesome idea. Personally I’d want to go with forged pistons (but that will definitely add cost) and I’d want to send the heads out for valves and cleaning to make sure there is no metal shavings in them.
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Apr 5, 2020 14:06
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For those of you who haven't been following me through my adventures in the Horrible Mechanical Failures thread, this happened to my new to me manual 2005 Forester XT. I'm looking to replace the shaft myself but I want to make sure I have the right one so I don't delay this further than I already have. One thing that's throwing me off is that Subaru has two part numbers for driveshafts on manual Foresters. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Forester-25L-MANUAL-XS/Drive-Shaft/49236495/27111SA030.html https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Forester-25L-TURBO-MT-XT-Sports/Drive-Shaft/49236494/27111SA011.html Based on the fact that they have the same price and general impression elsewhere, they appear to be the same. In short, will this remanufactured shaft work for me? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10933572&cc=1430727&jsn=2139 Also, how much trouble is it to get the shifter linkage out because it looks like the driveshaft had smacked it on its way out. The car did stay in gear when it let go and I was able to shift between 1st and Reverse without trouble but the shifter no longer stands up straight in neutral. Probably not a big deal to fix it right away but I would like to have it fixed depending on how tedious it is to get out.
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Apr 7, 2020 14:17
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Shifter linkage is easy. Look up a WRX short shifter how-to.
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Apr 7, 2020 14:22
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I need to re-do it with some better pictures and less words and stuff but this explains how the shifter works and all the parts: https://hellafunctional.com/?p=1626 A forester driveshaft has the same ends and length as an impreza one, but the center carrier bearing is different to lower it relative to the chassis. The shifter parts are also the same deal- shifter itself is taller and I think the rods are different.
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Apr 8, 2020 03:38
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I have replaced the shocks at home one wheel at a time on a 93 Ford Exploder. Is there anything someone with that skill level must know before attempting the shocks for a 2010 3.6 OB in an
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Apr 8, 2020 04:11
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kuxsurw_H0k Social isolation does weird things to you.
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Apr 11, 2020 13:00
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I have a 2003 Outback 2.5, with a 1 year old reman alternator (Subaru logo on it, but says rebuilt by Mitsubishi). My lights flicker at idle. Not badly, but it's annoying. Are the diode packs compatible, or is that a no-go given the higher output of the Outback alternator? I have his old alternator; I was gonna scrap it, but if I can use the diode pack, that'd be great. I'd assume that since mine was rebuilt by the OEM supplier, that everything else is fine there - I'm just trying to get rid of my flickering lights. edit: nevermind. found a parts catalog for alternator parts. they're both mitsubishi alternators, but use different rectifiers and diodes rated for different amperages.  Probably let the magic smoke out in a hurry.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Apr 13, 2020 |
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Apr 13, 2020 04:35
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If the diode and rectifier fit the same, I'd try it, so long as it gave more amps. And have a replacement on hand anyways just in case, but if its the same case, send it.
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Apr 13, 2020 06:36
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Nothing wrong with having a higher current rated diode than you need, it will function the same at a lower current. Same with a rectifier since it is made from diodes.
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Apr 13, 2020 06:50
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I'm going the opposite way, I was going to try to use the rectifier from a 75A alternator in a 90A alternator. It's the same housing. Physically they'll swap. But I don't think it'll last long. It looks like a new rectifier is $50ish for mine though, I'll probably just do that and keep the somewhat working rectifier as a spare. It's stupid easy to get the alternator out on this car so long as you keep a finger on that drat nut/bracket on the backside when removing it. I trust an OE-reman alternator (what I have now) with a new diode pack (what I hope to have soon) wayyyyyyyy more than a parts store reman. Hell, I trust a 300k mile junkyard OEM alternator more than a parts store reman. I didn't realize there was a significant output difference until I started looking up parts for them. I need to google the part number on my alternator anyway though; given the other repairs I've seen, I'm not exactly confident it has the original-spec 90 amp alternator. But with the way the lights are flickering, it has at least one blown diode, so there's no way it's even putting out 90 amps at this point anyway. It's barely noticeable at idle, so I'm pretty sure it's just one diode that's gone, but that just means the remaining one on that phase is going to go pop sooner rather than later.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:07 on Apr 13, 2020 |
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Apr 13, 2020 06:57
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My replacement driveshaft arrived earlier than expected which was a nice surprise since it let me see a not so nice surprise. Thanks to poor packaging by Cardone which left the ends of the shaft completely unsupported and unprotected, the joint got overextended and jammed into each other when it was delivered with the box standing up and the shown end on the bottom. I would sling some blame to FedEx too but I can't really blame them when nowhere on the box mentions not to lay the box upright. So as you can see, the finish where the joint made contact is ruined which has me concerned about corrosion since this is Jersey and we do salt. At least the season for that is over for now. So do I actually need to be concerned and if so what is the proper way to patch it up. I do have access to an automotive paint department at work that can probably patch it correctly although the facility is currently shut down and won't start to reopen until next month at the earliest.
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Apr 13, 2020 20:50
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my loathing of non starting rebuilt EZ30R's right now knows no bounds. Rings are refusing to reseal And this means plugs out. FFS and you think taking plugs out of the EJ25 or 20 is a PITA.........
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Apr 14, 2020 09:24
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Edward IV posted:My replacement driveshaft arrived earlier than expected which was a nice surprise since it let me see a not so nice surprise. I would just throw some paint on it and send it. It's going to covered in rust in 2 years anyway.
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Apr 14, 2020 09:34
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I decided to do my first engine out/head gasket job on a POS 2003 forester this week but I'm getting hung up on this last bit of taking things off before the whole thing comes out. Are the front O2 plug and 2 main engine plugs supposed to come off of this bracket before the engine comes out? They're on there so tight its like they're fused, or so brittle they've effectively welded themselves to the bracket and there isn't an obvious clip to release them. The FSM says "unplug the connectors" and highlights both sides, and nasioc/forester forums typically show one large grey connector, or a free hanging brown/grey/grey setup but dont show disconnecting them from a bracket.  In the photo the body side plugs are disconnected, but the connectors to the intake manifold and body side(?) o2 plug are still attached to a metal bracket on the transmission. Am I trying to do too much on this? Whats the best way to release all of the plugs?
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Apr 15, 2020 05:01
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You should just be able to undo the bracket and let it swing free-ish. There's a lift tab that you can get to once the bracket is free. Let me also add... gently caress EZ30's. gently caress THEM ALL AND SEND THEM TO HELL
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Apr 15, 2020 11:49
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You need to press on the clip and find a way to pry the connectors apart. A shitload of wiggling might work. I'd suggest a small flathead screwdriver between the plug and connector (don't insert it into the connector unless you want to replace it... that poo poo is gonna be brittle as hell). Don't be surprised when the clip portion snaps off. Zip ties mostly fix that. Remember... brittle as hell. Every connector I've touched on my 03 Outback has snapped the clip. Every connector I've touched on a friend's 03 WRX has done the same. There's more zip ties than I'd like to admit holding plugs and connectors together on both. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:23 on Apr 15, 2020 |
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Apr 15, 2020 15:20
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STR posted:You need to press on the clip and find a way to pry the connectors apart. A shitload of wiggling might work. I'd suggest a small flathead screwdriver between the plug and connector (don't insert it into the connector unless you want to replace it... that poo poo is gonna be brittle as hell). Y'all are the best, the engine is out. It took a chisel, a pry bar, and a pick wedging the connector open broke it free. Using the chisel as an anvil against the transmission as an anvil broke loose rust which was coming from... inside the plug? So far all the clips are intact, and only 2 nuts have welded via midwest road salt.
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Apr 16, 2020 05:25
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I can't remember if I asked this before, but does the Outback Sport use different struts than standard Imprezas, or is the difference only in the springs? I'm not seeing any distinction made on KYB's website, but I'm not sure if I'm looking under the wrong heading. I'll check and make sure they aren't putting it under the Outback heading even though all the others are Legacy based. E: They aren't, and they aren't making any distinction between wagons and sedans in general, does the 1st-generation Impreza use the same struts between wagons and sedans? 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Apr 18, 2020 |
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Apr 18, 2020 23:29
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Oem might have different part numbers but kyb just says use the same one for everything and there aren't really any differences. OBS isn't even significantly taller, it just has like, the 2 tone paint or whatever. I think the ride height spec in the fsm is within half an inch. It's only the 2nd gen impreza (02-07) that has different track widths from wagon and sedan.
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Apr 19, 2020 00:52
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