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I. M. Gei posted:I just ordered two Starrett rulers on Amazon and I hope that’s the last time I ever have to do that (it won’t be, I cannot un-know what I know now
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Apr 6, 2020 17:53
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Trabant posted:^ jinx! Bolt cutter works great, but it leaves a sharp edge. Also I don't have any other use for a bolt cutter tbh.
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Apr 6, 2020 18:46
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Have you seen wheels pop anywhere besides the collar and spin freely? I've always wondered but never had it happen but I've seen the collar break a lot and that isnt bad at all I've seen reports of the harbor figate cutting disks shattering and makign a mess of people.
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Apr 6, 2020 19:18
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Have you seen wheels pop anywhere besides the collar and spin freely? I've always wondered but never had it happen but I've seen the collar break a lot and that isnt bad at all Mine usually fragment from the edge, I've never spun the center out of one. The non-reinforced Dremel cutoffs will absolutely explode if you get sideways, the fiber-reinforced ones are much more resistant to my idiocy. That's what I used to cut my wire shelving, except my Dremel plugs in. If I had to do it again, I'd probably use my hacksaw anyway.
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Apr 6, 2020 20:09
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Well that’s the last time I ever ask Home Depot to cut 4x4s for me. The guy working the saw today was an absolute loving idiot. His cut measurements were off by an inch or more at least 3 times that I counted, and then even when they got corrected he still made several cuts that were off by hilariously stupid margins. I don’t even mean the usual 1/8” or 1/16” you’d expect from a saw cut; I’m talking upwards of half an inch. I don’t know how somebody can make mistakes like that. I get that retail slaves don’t get paid enough to give a poo poo about anything — hell, I’ve worked a job like this before myself — but good lord man ARE YOU EVEN loving TRYING!? So it looks like I might be in the market for a new circular saw in the near future, since with all the cutting I’m gonna have to do I might as well buy one instead of renting one over and over and over again. Please recommend me good circular saws. Again, my budget isn’t huge, but something decent with a 7 1/4” blade for around $200 seems doable. I’d prefer it to be cordless, but I’ll go corded if I have to. If I can get it in a bundle with either a jigsaw or a recip saw (preferably the former), that’d be great too. I’m pretty interested in Milwaukee’s M18 cordless stuff. I’ve also been told to avoid DeWalt’s cordless tools like the plague because DeWalt likes to gently caress with their battery designs every single year, so if I ever need to replace one of their batteries I’m poo poo outta luck.
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Apr 7, 2020 04:53
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Uhhh the DeWalt 20v stuff came out in 2011 and they have adapters to run the previous 18v stuff from new li-ion batteries if that matters. But red is also good. They seem to be the favorites here if you don't want to go budget green.
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Apr 7, 2020 05:06
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Getting stuff cut at big box stores isn't really meant to be for getting the exact dimensions you want. It's mostly so you can fit the stuff in your vehicle and get roughly near the dimensions you need. Like, it's cool if you get someone who will cut precisely to the lengths you ask for but it's explicitly not guaranteed.
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Apr 7, 2020 05:10
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Yeah I mean I think all my HD cuts have been within 1/4" of what I wanted over the years but I have also never asked them for a precision cut where even 3" off would have mattered to me. It's all about fitting it into your ride and fingers crossed, not having to make any more cuts at home. Plus you know there's a pandemic on right now so the HD worker probably isn't in the best of mental spaces currently.
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Apr 7, 2020 05:23
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angryrobots posted:Uhhh the DeWalt 20v stuff came out in 2011 and they have adapters to run the previous 18v stuff from new li-ion batteries if that matters. FYI, those adapter suck rear end. They either fail, fail in a way that takes out the battery, or just "work normally" which means draining any 20v battery you leave on the tool to the point that the charger wont' charge it anymore. Which is distinct from the second scenario if you jump some wire between the pos and neg of the "bad" battery to a good one just to get enough charge back in it that the charger will do the rest of the job. TL;DR: it's poo poo. But it's the poo poo system I'm embedded in.
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Apr 7, 2020 05:25
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Starting from scratch I'd get the Ryobi P508 for $130 with two 3.0 batteries: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-1...-P508/311807762 I have one of these and it works fine: bogs down in deep hardwood cuts, but works well for other tasks. Ryobi's cheapest tools aren't great, but the brushless models aren't too far off from other brands and the per-tool price floor is a lot lower than M18.
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Apr 7, 2020 05:46
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heffray posted:Starting from scratch I'd get the Ryobi P508 for $130 with two 3.0 batteries: I remember from my own hardware store retail experience that Ryobi is one of the lower-price-point brands that’s okay for occasional use, but not necessarily great if you plan to use it any more than that. Their tools are made for budget and versatility at the cost of general build quality. They’re an alright brand, but I’d like to be able to use this circ saw a bunch more times after this project is done, and I think I’d like something that’ll hold up better over time than a Ryobi. EDIT: This is a bit over the $200 I quoted, but it comes with a charger and a battery, both of which I need anyway. I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 06:19 on Apr 7, 2020 |
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Apr 7, 2020 06:16
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Maybe you're seeing a different price than me but that's a long ways from "a bit" at the $279 I'm seeing, thats closing on 36V Makita territory. You haven't really said what use you expect to get out of this saw other than its enough to not be worth renting one but if that until recently was a reasonable option for you I really don't see any reason to think you're going to wear out that brushless Ryobi. I'm sure you won't be disappointed in the Milwaukee so go for it but I will point out 2 things, the Ryobi is a left-hand side blade which some people could care less about and others like myself find really useful for certain cuts and if you're getting this for cutting dimensional lumber you should consider a miter saw instead of or in addition to a circular saw if you're looking for accurate repeatable cuts.
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Apr 7, 2020 06:56
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You guys need the worker who cuts at my local B&Q, sheet goods to the mm, every time.
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Apr 7, 2020 09:15
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cakesmith handyman posted:You guys need the worker who cuts at my local B&Q, sheet goods to the mm, every time. Even before all this mess, the panel station at my b&q was almost always either out of service or unstaffed, and the half size sheets cost twice a full size one per square metre. The manager also refused to sell me two halves at the price of a full even though they could restock from the full sheets once the cutter was back up and running. Dicks.
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Apr 7, 2020 13:40
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if you're cutting boards (think 2x4 not plywood) you may have a better time getting a chop saw (miter saw) instead of a circular saw. You can cut boards with a circular saw but it's so much nicer to line up the blade and cut on the pencil line. If you're cutting wider boards (Decking) you may need to step up to a sliding miter saw so you can cut the width. The $150 metabo / hitachi one has been my workhorse for awhile and it does the job. Adding "sliding" to it doubles the cost though. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Metabo-HPT-was-Hitachi-Power-Tools-10-in-15-Amp-Single-Bevel-Compound-Miter-Saw/1000872160
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Apr 7, 2020 14:08
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You won't go wrong with a makita circular saw. This is a good circular saw at a good price: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YIALZI/ref=psdc_552922_t1_B000N5SVEY I've always been shy of battery powered circ saws because they really pull alot of juice and have always felt very underpowered to me and had poo poo battery life. Granted I haven't used one in a decade and batteries have come a long way since then. I'd definitely figure in an extra $130 on top for another big 5AH battery so you can have 1 charging and 1 running all the time, and all the sudden you have a $400 circ saw that doesn't cut as well as the $100 one. E: I have 8yr old 20v dewalt 2AH batteries that still work fine-I've never had any problems with their batteries, but I mostly use them in drills. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Apr 7, 2020 |
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Apr 7, 2020 14:26
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You won't go wrong with a makita circular saw. This is a good circular saw at a good price: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YIALZI/ref=psdc_552922_t1_B000N5SVEY Second vote for this Makita, I own it and I'm really happy with it. Also agree on the battery vs corded circular saw sentiment. I own a lot of cordless tools but I keep my main circular saw corded.
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Apr 7, 2020 14:35
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I've got a Ryobi corded compound miter saw, it's fine and cuts straight and the degree measurements fairly accurate enough. They line up with my speed square anyway.
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Apr 7, 2020 14:50
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I got a battery-powered circular saw as part of a kit purchase awhile back, and honestly it's nice. Doesn't have as much power as a corded saw, no, but it has enough power for everything I've thrown at it, and my old corded saw's cord was always getting snagged on the workpiece when doing long cuts of sheet goods.
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Apr 7, 2020 14:56
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I. M. Gei posted:I just ordered two Starrett rulers on Amazon and I hope that’s the last time I ever have to do that (it won’t be, I cannot un-know what I know now Don't start looking into flatness or leveling surfaces. You might just go off the deep end. Length is only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to measuring. I spent 4 hours setting up a new 6" jointer this week and had nice carpenter square, a set of thickness shims, and a halfway decent dial indicator. After two hours I was convinced I could get it better than 2 thousandths and after hour 4 I said gently caress it, it's fine. It's more accurate than I'll ever be.
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Apr 7, 2020 15:50
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Protip: save yourself a bunch of time and just learn to cut with a cord, it really isn't that hard and you'll get the added benefit of more power. Besides a drill there aren't many tools I'm like WOW I wish this didn't have a cord! Its just part of becoming more proficient with your tools
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Apr 7, 2020 16:11
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Protip: save yourself a bunch of time and just learn to cut with a cord, it really isn't that hard and you'll get the added benefit of more power. Besides a drill there aren't many tools I'm like WOW I wish this didn't have a cord! Its just part of becoming more proficient with your tools I would say that this is mostly true, with the exception of having to work at height, and having to deal with cables getting caught is annoying, but usually I've got a hose connected anyway.
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Apr 7, 2020 16:44
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I. M. Gei posted:I remember from my own hardware store retail experience that Ryobi is one of the lower-price-point brands that’s okay for occasional use, but not necessarily great if you plan to use it any more than that. Their tools are made for budget and versatility at the cost of general build quality. Ryobi are fine. I had to remodel the entire east wall of my house 6 years ago due to rot and water damage, cutting out all the bad studs, sole plates and rebar with a 18 year old blue sawzall. I've got a ryobi drill that works great the rubber grip is deteriorating, but only a goon would cry about that. I saw someone online had various refurbed Milwaukee M18 tools and batteries, but can't recall who now. Maybe amazon. If you're only a once in a while circular saw user, get a corded makita like Kaiser Schnitzel recommended. Ive got a makita hypoid saw that's older than most of the posters itt and it's fine. And keep in mind if you're cutting 4x4's you're gonna have to cut from both sides in any case, or use a miter saw...which if you're OCD about 1/32" like you seem to be, probably ought to do.
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Apr 7, 2020 19:28
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I would LOOOOOOVE to have a miter saw, but all of the ones with the features I want (dual bevel, sliding, stand included, laser guide, preferably a 12” blade) are way outside my price range at the moment.Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You won't go wrong with a makita circular saw. This is a good circular saw at a good price: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YIALZI/ref=psdc_552922_t1_B000N5SVEY Deffo gonna look into this. Thanks! Harry Potter on Ice posted:Protip: save yourself a bunch of time and just learn to cut with a cord, it really isn't that hard and you'll get the added benefit of more power. Besides a drill there aren't many tools I'm like WOW I wish this didn't have a cord! Its just part of becoming more proficient with your tools Honestly I’ve never had any issues with using corded tools. I thought something cordless might open up the number of things I could do a bit whenever I start woodworking for real (I’ve been wanting to do this for awhile), but I have no problem with corded. We have tons of extension cords. I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Apr 7, 2020 |
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Apr 7, 2020 20:05
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I. M. Gei posted:I would LOOOOOOVE to have a miter saw, but all of the ones with the features I want (dual bevel, sliding, stand included, laser guide, preferably a 12” blade) are way outside my price range at the moment. If you want to get into serious woodworking you're probably going to want a table saw. Since I've gotten a decent table saw, the only thing I want to use my miter saw for is cutting long boards to length (often, rough length). A table saw with a crosscut sled/a good miter gauge will do exact and repeatable cuts much better. I have a $90 Ryobi miter saw and a shop-built stand and it's basically everything I want. It would be nice to get a slider so I could handle more width, but I can always cut rough length with a circular saw or jigsaw and then get precise length on the table saw.
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Apr 7, 2020 20:34
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I’m looking at taking advantage of the current Grizzly sale this week to pick up a new table saw. I’ve currently got the standard old Craftsman 113 with a pretty decent Vega fence and an extension wing on it. I’m looking at the G1023RLW and G1023RLWX with the G1023RLWX being the 5HP version, which I know is probably overkill for what I need. I have a 20amp 220v drop in my shop currently, so the 5HP would require me to rerun that for 30amp, which isn’t the end of the world as I have easy access to everything in that run. Any thoughts on which saw to snag? One wrench in the puzzle is the G1023RLW 3HP is backordered until June 5.
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Apr 8, 2020 01:04
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5hp is probably overkill, but if you use your tablesaw for ripping hard, heavy, 8/4+ stock or do alot of fat dados its probably worth the extra $150, and it's in stock. The router table add on seems like a good deal too.
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Apr 8, 2020 01:13
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I just bought the Makita circ saw. Big super thanks again to Kaiser Schnitzel for that rec! I’m looking forward to trying it out!  Meanwhile, in super OCD accurate ruler news, my 4’ Starrett ruler arrived today...... and somehow IT’S off too. I checked it against my one good ruler and 2 or 3 online rulers, and they all show it being off by the same amount. Which makes no sense considering Starrett is supposed to be a pretty good brand for ruler accuracy. So I took my good ruler with me to both Home Depot and Lowes, and I checked all the rulers they had in stock to see if any of them agreed with mine. None of them did, and I am starting to go insane.  Guys......... LITERALLY ALL I WANT is a 3’ or 4’ (or maaaaaybe 6’) ruler that agrees with my good 12” ruler. That’s it. That’s all I ask for. Having a longer ruler wound help me out immensely with this project I’m working on, but that 12” ruler is the only one I’ve been using to measure everything up to now, so any other ruler I get needs to sync up with that one. I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Apr 8, 2020 |
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Apr 8, 2020 04:00
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Are you building a space shuttle? Just get a 16 foot stanley tape measure and use it for the next 50 years.
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Apr 8, 2020 04:26
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Yah unless you have some super tight space you're building something to go into most measurements are relative, just use the same measuring tape and don't worry about how far off it is from some ultimately arbitrary measurement unit. If you really really need some smaller rulers that match you can try finding some that run long at the store, line them all up against a straight edge, then carefully grind them down till the match is perfect. Also this has come up before and I really don't understand what some of y'all are doing with your circular saws that modern brushless ones aren't powerful enough, assuming we're talking about 7 1/4 saws and not some of the large monsters seen in timber framing. Are ya all really cutting through 3 inch thick planks of hardwood with a circular saw or something? You certainly shouldn't be having problems with construction grade 4x and 2x boards or plywood an 1'' and under. Only time I've had my unremarkable brushless Ryobi bog down was operator error not realizing the importance of setting the minimum amount of cutting depth when making long cuts in thick plywood even when there's nothing to cut underneath. Elem7 fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Apr 8, 2020 |
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Apr 8, 2020 04:43
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I. M. Gei posted:I just bought the Makita circ saw. Big super thanks again to Kaiser Schnitzel for that rec! I’m looking forward to trying it out! is it like each inch is short, or the entire ruler is short so the inches shift over? If the entire ruler, a lot aren't really made to have an accurate end, so you drop the first inch.
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Apr 8, 2020 04:52
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Elem7 posted:
Thanks for this review, seals my decision to get the Ryobi brushless circ. They are $65 on sale rn at HD if you get a 2 piece 3amp battery kit with it.
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Apr 8, 2020 07:29
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Bondematt posted:is it like each inch is short, or the entire ruler is short so the inches shift over? If the entire ruler, a lot aren't really made to have an accurate end, so you drop the first inch. Each inch is short. I never use the ends of my rulers to measure. Whenever I use my 12” I always go from the 1” mark to the 11” mark or somewhere in between, and repeat as necessary depending on what length I’m measuring.
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Apr 8, 2020 10:32
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Just use the same measuring tool (a Stanley tape) when you are doing a job that requires accuracy. Full stop. In the grand scheme of things is it going to kill you if your deck is 11'11" instead of 12' ? If you use the same tool when it matters for example; measure the space between the floor and the ceiling and then your lumber you're fine, everything will match up. How are you going to deal with an inaccurate cut are you going to to flip poo poo? Are you going to shave off tiny tiny amounts until you get it perfect. Don't measure a 2x4.. you'll be shocked at the secret lumber companies don't want you to known.
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Apr 8, 2020 11:23
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At this point it looks like you want to turn this into an actual metrology project. Everything has uncertainty and error. Quantifying that and ensuring that it's within acceptable limits is the name of the game, not being exactly correct, because that's impossible. If this is seriously a big deal for you then email Starrett and ask them what their tolerances are for that specific part number. If you really, really want then send it back and buy one with a calibration certificate. That'll be traceable back to NIST, and will tell you the length and uncertainty. https://www.mcmaster.com/calibrated-rulers/ You're also saying that you've got one "good" 12 inch ruler that you want to match. How do you know that ruler is good? Do you have a current calibration certificate that confirms it? Do the online rulers you're talking about have calibration certificates? Because if you're really serious about having an actual measurement standard, you can't trust any tool that doesn't have a valid cert with quantified uncertainty. You should also do a proper randomized study to quantify the uncertainty associated with you reading the ruler. Metrology is serious, serious business. https://www.bipm.org/utils/common/documents/jcgm/JCGM_100_2008_E.pdf
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Apr 8, 2020 15:02
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I've just checked a bunch of different tape measures and rulers against my calipers and they were all equal and accurate to 0.1mm over 100mm, even the no-name roofers square, so I'm going to vote user error on this one.
Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Apr 8, 2020 |
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Apr 8, 2020 15:25
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Jaded Burnout posted:I've just checked a bunch of different tape measures and rulers against my calipers and they were all equal and accurate to 0.1mm over 100mm, even the no-name roofers square, so I'm going to vote user error on this one. This but also laughing at my good online rulers Also, breaking up a long measurement with a bunch of short ones is inaccurate Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Apr 8, 2020 |
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Apr 8, 2020 15:42
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:5hp is probably overkill, but if you use your tablesaw for ripping hard, heavy, 8/4+ stock or do alot of fat dados its probably worth the extra $150, and it's in stock. The router table add on seems like a good deal too. Yeah this where I'm leaning as well. When I'm spending that kind of money it makes me think an extra $150 isn't that much more, but seems like overkill.
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Apr 8, 2020 16:56
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Falco posted:Yeah this where I'm leaning as well. When I'm spending that kind of money it makes me think an extra $150 isn't that much more, but seems like overkill. I vote 5hp because when you need it, it's there. You'll want to cut 8/4 hardwood at some point in time. When the motor on my old (and I mean old) boice-crane saw died, I looked around and found a 5hp compressor motor. Since its rotation was only 1725, or half the typical table saw motor, I doubled the size of the pulley, and voila.
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Apr 8, 2020 17:20
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I built my entire deck by dragging my 23" monitor out next to every board and marking it out because I just can't trust my Starret 12" rule. I alternatively use a different instrument to measure every different aspect of a project because I love to introduce consistency error in addition to my accuracy errors.
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Apr 8, 2020 19:26
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