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Klyith posted:In general buying less expensive cards more often is better than super-expensive cards and trying to have them last a long time. Like, if you have $1000 dollars to spend every decade on video cards, buying a single card for a grand is a bad idea. It'll be nice the first few years but by year 9 it'll suck. In contrast 3 $350 cards will be a much nicer time. I’ve realized I’m bottlenecked with the Z270 chipset. I want to make a new build but would rather wait until Ampere comes out. Then I’ll probably pick up a 3080 since I’ve been able to get acceptable performance at 2560x1440 on my 1070. So I see no reason for that to change with next gen graphics. The only thing I’m not sure about right now is if I want to start stockpiling parts in anticipation of the 3080. Route A: buy the new i9 9900k with a Z390 Gigabyte Aorus Ultra and wait for 3080 Route B: wait for the next mobo chipset and cpu and get that with the 3080 Route C: same as route A but buy a 2080ti when the prices drop. Thoughts? My thinking is when the next gen consoles come out I’ll have to reckon with ray tracing and other technologies rapidly making whatever hardware I have now completely obsolete.
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Apr 5, 2020 18:16
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No ray tracing tech is going to make rasterizers obsolete in the next 10 years. Rasterization is still the primary rendering method and the one that has the most mature real time techniques for games and such, and while ray-tracing is making some serious gains in shadows and global illumination it's not going to replace it any time soon. And even then any high end card you get now still has ~10 teraflops of general purpose computing power (in other words it can trace a lot of rays per second even without dedicated dies.) Also we still don't have a standardised API for ray-tracing ala D3D/OpenGL/Vulkan for rasterizer graphics, and until we do and programmers have a chance to learn it and get used to it, adoption will be slow. Tl;dr the last thing I'd worry about when getting a GPU right now is getting 'left behind' on real time ray-tracing power.
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Apr 5, 2020 18:38
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In general, don't upgrade unless you need the upgraded power right now or you think prices will increase enormously by the time you actually need it. I'm not comfortable making predictions about prices over the next year, but by the time the next generation of gpus are released we'll probably Intel's next generation of desktop CPUs and maybe AMD's as well.
Stickman fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Apr 5, 2020 |
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Apr 5, 2020 18:48
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Wonder what the pandemic will do to prices.
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Apr 5, 2020 18:49
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Kraftwerk posted:Route A: buy the new i9 9900k with a Z390 Gigabyte Aorus Ultra and wait for 3080 This guy moved from a 4790k to a 3900x and did a bunch of benchmarks before/after. Negligible difference in the gaming benchmarks. https://old.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/cilkb3/benchmarks_to_compare_i74790k_and_3900x/ It pretty much convinced me to wait to upgrade. You have an even smaller difference coming from a 7700k. I don't think it's ever a good idea to stockpile parts for a future upgrade -- they're only depreciating, and meanwhile technology is advancing.
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Apr 5, 2020 19:25
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Stink Terios posted:Thing is, I might have knocked it out myself today with a screwdriver while diagnosing some problem, and now it doesn't boot. Welp, that would be a problem then  If you can find the SMD resistor, presumably in the bottom of your case, and you know anyone with a good soldering iron & skill at using it, it's possible to re-attach those. Heck, if you can't find the resistor you could try just bridging the connection. Those tiny components aren't hard to knock off the boards, hopefully your example is a lesson to everyone ITT. There are stories about people using air compressors to blow dust out of their PC with the full PSI blowing parts right off a board. If I have to poke at things with anything besides my fingers, that's when I pull the case out and get some light so I can do things proper.
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Apr 5, 2020 19:46
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KS posted:This guy moved from a 4790k to a 3900x and did a bunch of benchmarks before/after. Negligible difference in the gaming benchmarks. Sounds like all I need to do is upgrade the video card then!
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Apr 5, 2020 19:55
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Quick general question: I'm not a hardcore performance guy (or, really, a hardware guy in general). I'm currently running an Intel i7-4770 with a GeForce GTX 980 and I'm still pretty happy with it. I don't mind turning things down a notch if it's necessary on newer games, and I haven't had to all that much... ...but I've been sitting on this system for about 5 years now, and I know I'm rolling the dice at this point with my SSD at least (just used for the OS), and just the general age of everything. My options are: a) gently caress it, just buy a new SSD and reinstall the OS and continue being okay and fix something if it explodes. b) Take advantage of the fact that I'm NOT looking for cutting-edge anything, and upgrade everything to "a couple of steps behind the latest and shiniest, but still better then what I have" for not a ton of cash and put my mind at ease re: poo poo breaking. I'm leaning toward the new system, but don't have enough of a sense for how the tech curve is progressing at this point to know if I should hold off for a bit longer (is anything on the horizon that will cause current processors or vid cards to drop into the bargain basement), or if buying a new rig now (other than case and CD drive probably) would be a timely choice. Thoughts? I know opinions are going to differ somewhat, but I just want to make sure there's not something obvious I'm missing to make either choice really stupid at the moment.
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Apr 5, 2020 20:14
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SSDs aren't subject to mechanical failure like HDDs, though they can wear out with too many writes. You can compare the tbw of the drive to whatever it was originally rated for, but for general use it's unlikely you've consumed a substantial part of it's write endurance. Back up whatever you can't afford to lose regardless and don't worry about it.
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Apr 5, 2020 20:34
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ItBreathes posted:SSDs aren't subject to mechanical failure like HDDs, though they can wear out with too many writes. You can compare the tbw of the drive to whatever it was originally rated for, but for general use it's unlikely you've consumed a substantial part of it's write endurance. Back up whatever you can't afford to lose regardless and don't worry about it. Huh. I could have sworn I read something a few years back that said SSDs had a limited number of simple power-ons (not so much read/writes). I power on/off every day, so assumed I was pushing it. I downloaded the disc info tool from https://crystalmark.info and checked disc health just now and I'm fine, so apparently I had no idea what reality actually was. I guess what I read previously was horseshit. Thanks for the nudge in the right direction! Back to not worrying about it. (And yeah, everything's backed up anyway.  )Edit: And thanks to you for the verification as well! VVVVVVV aas Bandit fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Apr 5, 2020 |
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Apr 5, 2020 21:03
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aas Bandit posted:Quick general question:
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Apr 5, 2020 21:33
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Okay I did a little more research. https://youtu.be/UQLY8PU4IGg Assuming you have an RTX2080 ti: It’s like a 10FPS difference between my CPU and the i9 9800k. It’s not worth building a new rig just to get a 10fps boost in this case. I’ll be getting more than 60 FPS in almost all circumstances at 1440p. I think I’ll wait until the price drops and pick one up.
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Apr 5, 2020 21:42
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Here's a recent benchmark I ran after buying RDR2 and being unimpressed with my system's performance: https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/26271665quote:CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K - 82.1% Is there a smart value upgrade that could be made here? I haven't upgraded my PC in 3.5-4 years so I feel like an upgraded GPU would be worthwhile, but I never know when it's the right time to upgrade that. Trying to avoid upgrading the whole rig. I also have too many games running off of that WD Black, might get a 1tb SSD in addition. e: Ended up dropping cash on a RTX 2060 Super and a WD Blue 1TB SSD. Self care is important folks edgar_ fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Apr 6, 2020 |
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Apr 5, 2020 23:08
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I've wavered a bit and am now leaning toward 1) pulling the trigger on a 2080 ti, and 2) jumping back from mATX to ATX now that I realize the Meshify/Define Cs are the same depth as their mATX counterparts, only taller. Does anyone have a recommendation for a 2080 ti that fits in a Meshify C? If you've done this, did you have heat issues with stock case cooling?
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Apr 6, 2020 00:40
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I haven't built a computer in 10 years and all my stuff is ancient. I was going with Mike C's Flex 1080p Build and when I look up the PC Part Picking list it gives me some compatibility errors. Should I just go with the CPU and Motherboard from his budget build above it? That's fine for me, too. It's been so long since I've built a computer I know very little about what is good anymore except that SSD's are awesome as hell.
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Apr 6, 2020 01:44
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Rand alPaul posted:I haven't built a computer in 10 years and all my stuff is ancient. I was going with Mike C's Flex 1080p Build and when I look up the PC Part Picking list it gives me some compatibility errors. Should I just go with the CPU and Motherboard from his budget build above it? That's fine for me, too. It's been so long since I've built a computer I know very little about what is good anymore except that SSD's are awesome as hell. Nah it's a generic warning, that Mobo won't have any issues guaranteed.
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Apr 6, 2020 02:31
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My CPU (a 7700K) died, did a little window shopping and saw I could get a 9700k + mobo for about the price of a 7700k by itself. So, this isn't intended as an upgrade, just a replacement as I'm still using most of the parts from my old build. I just want a sanity check that there aren't any incompatibilities or hidden pitfalls with this setup. This is mostly intended for gaming, my work apps don't bottleneck on local machine performance. I'm also considering getting a new case, I have an NZXT Phantom 410 Mid, the horizontal clearance with my GPU is pretty tight and I would really like a case that ditches the optical drive slots and has more mounting for hard drives and SSDs, as it is my current case just has the SSDs floating unattached. Right now I'm leaning towards the NZXT 510/710 for the minimalist aesthetic. New items are in bold: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($369.99 @ Best Buy) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212X 82.9 CFM CPU Cooler Motherboard: *Asus PRIME Z390-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($179.99 @ Best Buy) Memory:G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg) Storage:url=https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wrNp99/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz7pd256bw]Samsung 840 Pro Series 256 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive[/url] Video Card:Zotac GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11 GB AMP Extreme Core Video Card Power Supply:Corsair TXM Gold 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply Total: $624.97 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-06 16:32 EDT-0400 metasynthetic fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Apr 6, 2020 |
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Apr 6, 2020 22:08
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ItBreathes posted:Nah it's a generic warning, that Mobo won't have any issues guaranteed. Awesome, I got everything ordered. Thanks!
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Apr 6, 2020 22:39
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So I’m not looking for a whole pc, but we’re rearranging stuff and my pc is not going to be in range to have a wired connection to the router. So I need a WiFi card. I’m hoping for a goon recommendation for one. What country are you in? USA What are you looking for? WiFi card. What's your budget? I can’t imagine this being more than $50 Thanks in advance.
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Apr 6, 2020 23:53
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metasynthetic posted:My CPU (a 7700K) died, did a little window shopping and saw I could get a 9700k + mobo for about the price of a 7700k by itself. So, this isn't intended as an upgrade, just a replacement as I'm still using most of the parts from my old build. I just want a sanity check that there aren't any incompatibilities or hidden pitfalls with this setup. This is mostly intended for gaming, my work apps don't bottleneck on local machine performance. Unless you're competitive gaming and absolutely need the small single-core performance difference between a 9700k and a Ryzen 3600 or 3700x, I'd consider getting a 3600/3700x + MSi B450 Tomahawk. The Hyper 212(x) isn't the best value cooler any more, but with Amazon's shipping delays quite a few of the better alternatives are unavailable or going up in price. The Arctic Freezer 34 CO is the best option right now. The H510 is a solid case, but the H710 is probably excessively large unless you really need that extra space. The Fractal design Meshify C is my go-to recommendation for minimalist aesthetic in a relatively compact case combined with good airflow, and it comes in a variety of panel options and colors. The Define C trades airflow for a solid front panel and better sound dampening, but most folks are happy with the Meshify.
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Apr 6, 2020 23:55
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numerrik posted:So I’m not looking for a whole pc, but we’re rearranging stuff and my pc is not going to be in range to have a wired connection to the router. So I need a WiFi card. I’m hoping for a goon recommendation for one. Anything from one of the big networking brands (tp-link, Netgear, Linksys, etc) should be as good as another I figure. They don't really get benchmarked by any of the big PC building publications so it's hard to offer informed recommendations. I personally got somewhat better reception going from a card with antennas straight out the back to one with a wired antenna, but it wasn't exactly a scientific comparison. Just make sure it supports at least 802.11ac. If possible, look into power line Ethernet as well, it blows wifi out of the water, though of course it lacks portability if you're a lan party regular or whathaveyou
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Apr 7, 2020 01:14
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ItBreathes posted:
I actually was going to the same thing. Power lines are amazing.
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Apr 7, 2020 01:45
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Stickman posted:Unless you're competitive gaming and absolutely need the small single-core performance difference between a 9700k and a Ryzen 3600 or 3700x, I'd consider getting a 3600/3700x + MSi B450 Tomahawk. The Hyper 212(x) isn't the best value cooler any more, but with Amazon's shipping delays quite a few of the better alternatives are unavailable or going up in price. The Arctic Freezer 34 CO is the best option right now. Thanks! After doing some price comparisons, I can live with slightly worse single core performance for 130$ in savings. Looks like it's equal to my old CPU even single-threaded anyway, and better otherwise, so it's all upside.
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Apr 7, 2020 02:29
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I'm building a new system for the first time in 5-6 years and this is my first attempt using the M.2 format. I bought one 250gb NVME to use as my Windows and main drive and a secondary 1 TB m.2 ssd SATA for games and everything else. Do I need to install Windows on the NVME first and then put in the secondary m.2 afterwards to prevent any weird issues with Windows going on the non-NVME mistakenly like some people on YouTube warned about? Or am I overthinking this and I can put both in at once and force it to install Windows on the NVME without worry?
Murvin fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Apr 7, 2020 |
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Apr 7, 2020 04:59
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Murvin posted:I'm building a new system for the first time in 5-6 years and this is my first attempt using the M.2 format. I bought one 250gb NVME to use as my Windows and main drive and a secondary 1 TB m.2 ssd SATA for games and everything else. Do I need to install Windows on the NVME first and then put in the secondary m.2 afterwards to prevent any weird issues with Windows going on the non-NVME mistakenly like some people on YouTube warned about? Or am I overthinking this and I can put both in at once and force it to install Windows on the NVME without worry? If you have set the mobo BIOS to UEFI-only boot, and set the NVMe drive to #1 in boot order, you can then install windows without worry. The problems with multiple drives during install is how windows tries to determine which is the boot drive, and then installs the boot partition to that drive (even if the main OS install is elsewhere). With old bios boot windows sometimes guessed wrong; with UEFI it can get that info directly and won't gently caress up.
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Apr 7, 2020 05:12
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Should have just gotten one big nvme why split it?
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Apr 7, 2020 06:22
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LRADIKAL posted:Should have just gotten one big nvme why split it? I don't have a good answer for that and I actually just might do that. For some reason I was really wanting to isolate windows on to it's own thing but I suppose I could just partition.
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Apr 7, 2020 07:02
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metasynthetic posted:Thanks! After doing some price comparisons, I can live with slightly worse single core performance for 130$ in savings. Looks like it's equal to my old CPU even single-threaded anyway, and better otherwise, so it's all upside. For what it's worth I was going to recommend the same thing but didn't get around to posting it. The Ryzen stuff will suit you just fine for what you are doing!
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Apr 7, 2020 17:05
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ItBreathes posted:Anything from one of the big networking brands (tp-link, Netgear, Linksys, etc) should be as good as another I figure. They don't really get benchmarked by any of the big PC building publications so it's hard to offer informed recommendations. I personally got somewhat better reception going from a card with antennas straight out the back to one with a wired antenna, but it wasn't exactly a scientific comparison. Just make sure it supports at least 802.11ac. Slight caveat: powerline is dependent on the quality of the wiring it's running on, so if your place hasn't been rewired in decades you might have a bad time with it. However for most homes it's a huge upgrade over wifi in terms of both speed and reliability, especially if (like us) you have solid interior walls.
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Apr 7, 2020 17:39
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Murvin posted:I don't have a good answer for that and I actually just might do that. For some reason I was really wanting to isolate windows on to it's own thing but I suppose I could just partition. I don't recommend even doing that. Windows can be installed on top of itself very reliably, and it's not like the old days where you need to wipe and reinstall all the time. Also, back up your disk.
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Apr 7, 2020 17:51
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You don't have to, but you still might want to and for that a partition is neat.
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Apr 7, 2020 18:09
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Is the Corsair 750D a good enough case to be kept for future builds?
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Apr 7, 2020 22:44
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It's a fine case. It's a monster, but the HDD cages are removable and airflow and cable management are decent enough. If you like it, it's in good condition, and you aren't tempted by more compact cases, then there's really no reason not to use it.
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Apr 7, 2020 23:22
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Stickman posted:It's a fine case. It's a monster, but the HDD cages are removable and airflow and cable management are decent enough. It’s fine. I just see everyone here buying mid-towers so I wondered what I was missing. I had problems mounting a Corsair h110i before which Is why I’ve considered getting a new case. But I recently did some research and realized a high end Noctua works better than an AIO according to Linus and is quieter so I have no reason to bother. If there’s cases that run cooler, have good air dust filters and operate mostly on a good tool free design I’d happily entertain them. I only need 1 storage HDD. The rest of my drives are M2 NVME.
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Apr 7, 2020 23:36
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Kraftwerk posted:It’s fine. I just see everyone here buying mid-towers so I wondered what I was missing. I had problems mounting a Corsair h110i before which Is why I’ve considered getting a new case. But I recently did some research and realized a high end Noctua works better than an AIO according to Linus and is quieter so I have no reason to bother. Like, would a smaller case suit your living space better than the massive 750D? That's generally why people pick smaller cases. Most of us have realized we don't need monster cases, between SSDs and most people ditching the cd drives. If you've already got a monster case and it lives somewhere where you don't care about the size, I'd just keep it. The 750D doesn't have great airflow in the stock config, but it gets by on huge internal volume so there's no hotspots. If you leave the front panel off it becomes an oversize meshify. LRADIKAL posted:I don't recommend even doing that. Why would you specifically recommend not partitioning? Like, I agree that it isn't necessary for the oldschool reformat & reinstall dance because a windows over-the-top reinstall is good for anything except a malware infection. But for anyone who likes classic partitions as a method of dealing with data organization (it also makes backups real easy), I don't think there's any reason not to partition.
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Apr 8, 2020 00:15
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Klyith posted:Why would you specifically recommend not partitioning? Like, I agree that it isn't necessary for the oldschool reformat & reinstall dance because a windows over-the-top reinstall is good for anything except a malware infection. Then you can't be lazy like me and never clean out your temp files. 
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Apr 8, 2020 00:48
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I’m torn between Meshify C and Define R6 for cases. They both have the headers and slots I want, but do I want a quieter case or a cooler case?
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Apr 8, 2020 01:21
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Klyith posted:Why would you specifically recommend not partitioning? Like, I agree that it isn't necessary for the oldschool reformat & reinstall dance because a windows over-the-top reinstall is good for anything except a malware infection. When partitioned you have to manage the space of multiple storage pools. I don't see how it makes backups any easier either. Just image the whole machine, and/or point your online backup at your one volume. Partitioning seems to add some complexity for not much gain. Why bother? At this point we're talking about preference for the most part. So if partitioning is the way your brain likes to organize things, go for it. MacOS I think has a file system (zfs?) that lets you create multiple partitions on one volume that can dynamically grow into the drive as you fill them. Like the dynamic disk system commonly used in virtual machines. That, I would probably be into.
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Apr 8, 2020 01:26
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skooma512 posted:I’m torn between Meshify C and Define R6 for cases. If you use headphones and have a decent CPU cooler you won't notice any sound.
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Apr 8, 2020 01:28
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PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($174.99 @ B&H) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Best Buy) Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ B&H) Video Card: MSI Radeon RX 5700 8 GB Evoke OC Video Card ($272.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg) Total: $937.92 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-07 22:18 EDT-0400 Haven't built a computer since 2014 with a P3258/z97 build, but I'm looking to do some gaming at 1440p. Any suggestions?
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Apr 8, 2020 03:26
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