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Jaded Burnout posted:Honestly if you're expecting really serious flooding, maybe proper drains and culverts are a worthwhile investment. Yeah, I feel like if this is a real concern you're better off figuring out how to address your drainage problems than worrying about how much water can flow directly through your fence. There's a stretch of cottages around here sitting right on a flood plain (most of them are on ~15-20 foot stilts). Some people dig drainage ditches along their fence lines but I haven't seen any special permeable fences or anything. If you want to try and do something about it make sure to talk to a professional of some kind, though, because when you start loving with drainage you can get in the poo poo if it impacts other people's property etc. Wallet fucked around with this message at 13:54 on Apr 7, 2020 |
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Apr 7, 2020 13:47
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MetaJew posted:I think I am envisioning something like having a typical vertical or horizontal cedar picket fence, that then has some of these square wire panels at the base that might allow water to flow under the fence more easily, and also keep dogs in their respective yards. Not that I've ever seen anything like that before, which is why I ask. You haven't seen anything like that because it's completely unnecessary. Water is going to flow through a typical fence of the type you are describing. In fact, fences like that shouldn't be installed with their panels touching the ground because that will make them rot pretty quickly. The only thing in actual ground contact should be the posts. If you have something small enough (or that digs) that you are trying to keep on one side of the fence the standard solution is "hardware cloth", the small square welded wire fencing. If you want to prevent digging you should dig out the sod about a foot on the side you are trying to prevent the digging from happening on and fold the hardware cloth into an "L" shape, burying one half of it under the sod and attach the other half to the bottom of the fence.
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Apr 7, 2020 16:40
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Motronic posted:The only thing in actual ground contact should be the posts. The only exception to that that I've seen is something like this https://www.penninefencing.co.uk/concrete-fence-posts-and-bases/concrete-plain-base-panels/26 where there's a full-length concrete block that the panel sits in/on, and the concrete is firmly seated on the ground. If they're butted up firmly enough they *might* act as a water barrier?
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Apr 7, 2020 16:49
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My mom's place is in a subdivision and all the back lawns on her side of the street have been sloped in such a way that when there is a heavy rain the water just runs through them all into a drainage field in a common area. Some people have done nothing about this, and will see ~10% of the lawn flood, with water running under and between their fence slats. My mom's got a french drain running along that bit of the lawn with a half-circle cut out of the wood fence and some metal grating over it, to let the water out but not let animals in (theoretically, don't know that it's keeping anything out really). Works pretty good most of the time. These aren;t great pics but it's all I could find. This is the aftermath of an insane 4"/hr rain we had a couple summers ago. Neighbor's yards:   View of the end of my mom's yard, where the drain ends:  Assuming the water has a path you probably don't need to do anything special, unless you want to.
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Apr 7, 2020 17:10
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Jaded Burnout posted:The only exception to that that I've seen is something like this They probably would - I've never seen anything like that on this side of the atlantic.
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Apr 7, 2020 17:28
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Motronic posted:They probably would - I've never seen anything like that on this side of the atlantic. I've only seen them cropping up recently, I guess because they're easier than digging and pouring concrete when flipping a house?
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Apr 7, 2020 17:36
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They're called gravel boards and they've been around longer than I have 
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Apr 7, 2020 18:57
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cakesmith handyman posted:They're called gravel boards and they've been around longer than I have I thought he meant something different, but it does just look like that from the link. All fences should have a gravel board (wood normally though) under the panel to protect it, and better hold soil. Sirotan posted:Neighbor's yards: Can’t say I see the point of having a decent sized garden if it’s just going to be turf. A few trees would go a long way.
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Apr 7, 2020 19:12
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cakesmith handyman posted:They're called gravel boards and they've been around longer than I have These concrete ones? https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Recessed-Concrete-Gravel-Board---50mm-x-150mm-x-1-83m/p/540064 Fair enough if so. The way I've usually seen people fitting fences (until recently) is to drive and/or concrete in posts.
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Apr 7, 2020 19:40
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You still concrete the posts in, the gravel boards are just so the wooden panels aren't in contact with the ground/soil/gravel.
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Apr 7, 2020 19:49
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Jaded Burnout posted:This is all super useful information which I will squirrel away for later, but what I meant to imply (and did a poor job of) is that generic fence panels and hedges are the obvious choice and as such I'm interested in whether anyone has any classier or novel solutions. the real headache is neighbouring fences and boundaries and not making everything look out of place. you mentioned there won't be lot of shared fence issues, but i gather there's be the typical no man's land between individual fences - or are the neighbours leaving you to figure out boundaries?
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Apr 7, 2020 23:12
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I've heard of using "rot boards" at the base of fences, that would run parallel to the ground to keep the end grain of the fence picket end grain off the ground, but I've never seen a fence with a concrete "gravel board" in Texas. That is mostly likely just because it's cheaper and easier not to do it-- and for that matter, I don't think I've seen any privacy fences in recent memory with a rot board.
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Apr 8, 2020 01:28
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Wiggly Wayne DDS posted:there's p good faux-wood fencing that's recycled plastic and means never really worrying about renewal in your lifetime (unless you back into it with a car) Which is, as it happens, how the existing wall came to an end. Wiggly Wayne DDS posted:the real headache is neighbouring fences and boundaries and not making everything look out of place. you mentioned there won't be lot of shared fence issues, but i gather there's be the typical no man's land between individual fences - or are the neighbours leaving you to figure out boundaries? So, out the front there is only one small run which shares a boundary, and the existing (now mostly destroyed) wall is entirely on my property. Any replacement I put up would be the only boundary there and would also sit entirely on my property, so it would entirely be my responsibility. The current owner rents it out and the current renter is fairly chill, so I don't think anyone would care. Wiggly Wayne DDS posted:but i gather there's be the typical no man's land between individual fences - or are the neighbours leaving you to figure out boundaries? Sorry I forget where you're located, but in my locale at least there's rarely any DMZ; it tends to be a single shared-ownership fence or wall that runs down the center of the boundary (sometimes by definition, thanks to the party wall legislation). That'll be more of a thing for the back garden, but because of the way things align on that one side wall out the front I don't think it'll be a problem to do whatever I feel is good. Generally none of my neighbours have shown any interest in engaging on this sort of thing and seem happy to let me take the lead. MetaJew posted:I've heard of using "rot boards" at the base of fences, that would run parallel to the ground to keep the end grain of the fence picket end grain off the ground, but I've never seen a fence with a concrete "gravel board" in Texas. As the saying goes, everything's drier in Texas.
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Apr 8, 2020 01:48
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Jaded Burnout posted:As the saying goes, everything's drier in Texas. Houston would like to have a word with you.
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Apr 8, 2020 02:53
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MetaJew posted:I've heard of using "rot boards" at the base of fences, that would run parallel to the ground to keep the end grain of the fence picket end grain off the ground, but I've never seen a fence with a concrete "gravel board" in Texas. It’s crazy and dumb that it is cheaper and easier to do it twice badly than doing it once the right way, but that’s the world where PT pine is cheap af we live in.
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Apr 8, 2020 03:51
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Sirotan posted:My mom's place is in a subdivision and all the back lawns on her side of the street have been sloped in such a way that when there is a heavy rain the water just runs through them all into a drainage field in a common area. Some people have done nothing about this, and will see ~10% of the lawn flood, with water running under and between their fence slats. My mom's got a french drain running along that bit of the lawn with a half-circle cut out of the wood fence and some metal grating over it, to let the water out but not let animals in (theoretically, don't know that it's keeping anything out really). Works pretty good most of the time. My backyard, right now:  Some of my neighbors have prettied up their drainage with landscaping rocks and such. This is my first winter in the house so still feeling things out. Inclined to do similar though so the area is less of a mud pit / marsh during snowmelt
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Apr 8, 2020 15:29
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You could probably have a  rain garden or river rock drainage bed with a tiny bridge if you wanted to go all in.
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Apr 8, 2020 16:10
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Sirotan posted:You could probably have a That would be a really swale way to solve this problem.
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Apr 8, 2020 16:29
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H110Hawk posted:That would be a really swale way to solve this problem.
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Apr 8, 2020 17:33
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What's the best way to deal with carpenter bees? I have a bee trap for them and it's been effective in capturing a handful but there seems to be a lot more of them this year and it's just not doing the trick.
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Apr 8, 2020 17:47
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cinnamon rollout posted:What's the best way to deal with carpenter bees? I have a bee trap for them and it's been effective in capturing a handful but there seems to be a lot more of them this year and it's just not doing the trick. Ask them for an estimate
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Apr 8, 2020 18:09
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That Works posted:Ask them for an estimate They'll just show up buzzed
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Apr 8, 2020 18:21
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That Works posted:Ask them for an estimate I tried this and they told me to buzz off
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Apr 8, 2020 18:55
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MetaJew posted:Does this thread have any recommendations for overhead LED light bars for garage lighting? Should I just go grab whatever fits from my local Home Depot, or are there some good models I can buy online? I will probably wire them in to an existing switched circuit. more falafel please posted:I'm looking for something like this too, but I'd probably prefer ones that daisy-chain that I can plug into a wall outlet. Looking into this a little more, and looking on Garage Journal, I'm wondering if there is a reason not to buy an LED-ready T8 light fixture vs. the integrated LED ceiling lights? Installation aside, (the T8 fixtures would probably require a junction box at every location vs. the integrated lights being linked together on the surface of the ceiling), would one provide more light than the other or be a better choice? It looks like the LED-ready T8 fixtures are pretty cheap, but I'm not sure how much each LED tube costs for something fairly bright and in the 4000-5000k range.
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Apr 8, 2020 20:46
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A few months ago we got most of our windows replaced. All double-hung sash windows, probably the originals that came with the house in 1987. They had full screens, which largely sucked and wouldn't stay in. The new windows have half screens which can slide up and down, so in theory you can open either the top or bottom of the double-hung window. (Useful to keep the kids from pushing on the screens.) The windows are OKNA Insul-Tec 500. We've been using them more often lately now that the weather's getting nice, and I sensed that something might be wrong because wasps kept coming in somehow. This morning I finally figured it out: there's actually a pretty massive gap between the glass pane (the top, outer one) and the bottom of the screen if you open the top. Like probably a half inch or so. It works fine opening the bottom, because the top of the screen seals properly against the bottom of the upper part of the window. (And the bottom of the screen just rests on the sill, of course.) This is a hard problem to describe, so hopefully these pictures help:    Any recommendations on what to do about this? Obviously one thing I'm considering is just getting some weather stripping or something and shoving it in there when we open them like this. Kinda lame but whatever. I don't know if this would be an installation issue; it doesn't look to me like there's really any other way of assembling these. Or is there just something obvious I'm missing? I've never had this kind of window before. I don't know if this is a common issue. I only got 1 Google hit about it, and there wasn't really any answer. Mostly people jumping to conclusions about the contractors doing a bad job, but if anything it seems like a design defect.
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Apr 8, 2020 20:49
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Jaded Burnout posted:They'll just show up buzzed cinnamon rollout posted:I tried this and they told me to buzz off I knew I could count on you goons
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Apr 8, 2020 20:53
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Maybe this is a dumb question, but are you sure they're meant to be opened from both the top and bottom, and not that the top sash moves to make it easier to remove for cleaning?
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Apr 8, 2020 20:53
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Wood dowels and glue for the carpenter bees. Pack a little diatomaceous earth and borax into the holes for good measure for sealing. The seem to bore the same size holes--been using the same dowel for a few years...5/8" I think? As for the new windows with 1/2 screens....my vote would be call up the company that just sold you the new windows and tell them you got the screens for the single hung windows and need the correct screens. How do you keep the bugs out if you want to open both the bottom and top a crack?
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Apr 8, 2020 20:56
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That Works posted:I knew I could count on you goons Honestly your gag was already  Sir Lemming posted:A few months ago we got most of our windows replaced. All double-hung sash windows, probably the originals that came with the house in 1987. They had full screens, which largely sucked and wouldn't stay in. The new windows have half screens which can slide up and down, so in theory you can open either the top or bottom of the double-hung window. (Useful to keep the kids from pushing on the screens.) The windows are OKNA Insul-Tec 500. Sirotan posted:Maybe this is a dumb question, but are you sure they're meant to be opened from both the top and bottom, and not that the top sash moves to make it easier to remove for cleaning? You're definitely supposed to be able to open sash windows either way, but sash windows are largely an English invention so the use of screens has never been an issue when I've seen them. From the description it seems to be working as expected. The panes on sash window are inset from the frame, so the only place you'll get a good seal is against the frame. That means you're only going to be able to use the screen effectively in two configurations: 1. Top sash all the way down, screen all the way up 2. Bottom sash wherever you like, screen all the way down. That's the limitations of the geometry, unfortunately. You've got three planes moving against each other and only a few spots where they touch due to the panes being narrower than the frame (which is true of pretty much all windows everywhere). You're going to want fixed full size screens, I think, if you need more flexibility than that.
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Apr 8, 2020 21:43
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Sirotan posted:Maybe this is a dumb question, but are you sure they're meant to be opened from both the top and bottom, and not that the top sash moves to make it easier to remove for cleaning? I guess I'm not really sure, but the screen does slide extremely easily (once you push the tabs to "unlock" it) and overall it pretty much works. Except for the gap. HycoCam posted:As for the new windows with 1/2 screens....my vote would be call up the company that just sold you the new windows and tell them you got the screens for the single hung windows and need the correct screens. How do you keep the bugs out if you want to open both the bottom and top a crack? It was quite clear beforehand that we'd be getting half screens. I think that's just how this company makes them. The half screen is mentioned on the website. I would assume you're not meant to do the simultaneous top/bottom thing. That aspect of it is a little annoying, but I do like the clarity of not having a screen on half of it. Looking carefully at how the bottom of the screen meets the sill, I do think it might be possible to affix some kind of weather stripping to it. The trick of course will be to not block anything. But since there is a gap anyway, for the top sash, I think it might be doable. EDIT: or maybe not the inside bottom of the screen, but the outside top of the top sash. Have to see how they would collide during movement. Jaded Burnout posted:1. Top sash all the way down, screen all the way up That essentially is what I'm going for, but it doesn't really seem possible for the top sash to go all the way down. There do seem to be these little stoppers in place to prevent it, which could possibly be removed... will have to look into that a little more to see if that would actually be enough to close the gap. Sir Lemming fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Apr 8, 2020 |
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Apr 8, 2020 21:47
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MetaJew posted:Looking into this a little more, and looking on Garage Journal, I'm wondering if there is a reason not to buy an LED-ready T8 light fixture vs. the integrated LED ceiling lights? I have a buddy who went all-Integrated LED on a new build and is very happy with his. He purchased Lithonia, which can be bought online or through your favorite electrical or lighting supply house.
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Apr 8, 2020 22:25
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Sirotan posted:You could probably have a The latter is what I had in mind, and exactly what several neighbors have done
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Apr 9, 2020 01:39
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Dig the trenches a little deeper and build a one man battleship and go hunting remote control targets.
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Apr 9, 2020 12:54
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Fuckin AmazonBasics did away with their 3-pack of water filters for $17.51/filter and now it's $25/filter in 1 packs. Or the usual $8 prime shipping upcharge on what it should cost. Of course it's still half the price of the LG brand ones but come on Amazon. 
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Apr 9, 2020 16:39
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Well I'm wall-mounting my TV in my basement den, and I had to cut a hole in the wall for adding an outlet behind the set: 3/4" pine vertical tongue-and-groove affixed to 3/4" pine horizontal tongue-and-groove on the back (with studs every 32-34", depending on how picky the original home owner felt like being). The entire basement is done this way. Talk about not "building them like they used to"...
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Apr 12, 2020 23:13
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Problem: I want to install a post light at the end of my driveway, but the light fixtures that sit on top of the pole are outrageously expensive for anything that doesn't look like it's from Better Homes & Gardens. Easily $130 - $250+++ for something decently modern or stylish. Solution: DIY, of course. I've got a 3d printer, clear filament, and an affinity for simple, geometric designs, so printing a simple plastic casing to sit on top of the pole and look decent shouldn't be too hard. All I'd need is a low voltage light to sit inside the pole. In this video, he has exactly what I want: a diode that sits on top of a standard 3" pole. (His is 120v, but I want a low voltage one.) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22UdP22ibCI&t=122s My issue is that I can't find a diode like that anywhere. It's not listed in the description. The company that posted the video doesn't have it available. Amazon, Home Depot, nobody. I can't even find a 120v one. All I want is a 3" diameter low voltage LED. Why is this so hard. The Wonder Weapon fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Apr 13, 2020 |
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Apr 13, 2020 18:58
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Problem: I want to install a post light at the end of my driveway, but the light fixtures that sit on top of the pole are outrageously expensive for anything that doesn't look like it's from Better Homes & Gardens. Easily $130 - $250+++ for something decently modern or stylish. You're looking for something like this, yeah? https://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-COB-Light-1W-3W-5W-10W-20W-30W-50W-100W-White-Warm-White-Beads-Chip-PCB/202039650076 The one they have looks to be a small LED panel on top of a built-in driver. If ebay fails you, aliexpress might do it. Make sure you take IP rating into account.
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Apr 13, 2020 19:11
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Jaded Burnout posted:You're looking for something like this, yeah? It is just basically a few LEDs with a driver, stuck on an appropriate-sized mounting frame, yeah. I was hoping for a complete package, rather than having to solder crap together. At that point, I'd rather take a spare spotlight (https://www.amazon.com/Tomshine-Out...846&sr=8-6&th=1) and find a way to place it at the top of the pole.
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Apr 13, 2020 19:23
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Problem: I want to install a post light at the end of my driveway, but the light fixtures that sit on top of the pole are outrageously expensive for anything that doesn't look like it's from Better Homes & Gardens. Easily $130 - $250+++ for something decently modern or stylish. Define low voltage? 12v? How bright? You can get an led bulb and a socket designed for 12v, that gives you a replaceable standard bulb, something like a G4 would get you 200 lumens.
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Apr 13, 2020 19:35
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cakesmith handyman posted:Define low voltage? 12v? How bright? You can get an led bulb and a socket designed for 12v, that gives you a replaceable standard bulb, something like a G4 would get you 200 lumens. Yes 12v, which is standard for landscaping low voltage (https://www.amazon.com/Malibu-Volta...ps%2C167&sr=8-6). Earlier I went looking for ip65 12v sockets, and didn't find much that seemed to be what I wanted it to be. I did find this simple waterproof socket (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Weatherproof-Socket-Black-R60-00055-000/100356874?MERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-301667507-_-100356874-_-N). Is something like this going to work on a 12v system? They list the maximum ratings, but don't indicate the minimum. I was planning on ordering these bulbs (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTD238Z/ref=crt_ewc_img_srh_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2ROP7NEUL5DDD) anyways to replace some that broke in a string out back. Can I just shove one of those bulbs in that socket, hook it up to 12v, and call it a day? That would be great.
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Apr 13, 2020 20:13
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