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Throatwarbler posted:Price out your insurance. If you are male and under 45 it's very likely that renting a car every week from Enterprise (which IIRC could be like <$30 per day) with a credit card that offers collision damage waiver would be cheaper that insurance, maintenance etc on a new car. The plan was to do my research while everyone is cooped up and then get enough saved up to start actually shopping afterward. I was hoping that having a car of my own would be a good bit more flexible, but I'll look into other options once I can actually price things out since every car rental place within a reasonable distance is shut down at the moment. Insurance prices were my big concern, since I haven't owned a car of my own, but I have held a license for pretty much the whole time since I was 16.
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Mar 27, 2020 22:23
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I have been looking at replacing my 20-year-old subaru station wagon with a new Buick Regal TourX wagon. While I work from home, my fiancee works in an essential industry and I have been driving her to and from work daily (she usually takes public transport) and the subaru has shat the bed enough times that regardless of my ability to repair it, it's simply too unreliable. (Okay, okay, Buicks are old man cars but I am 6'5" and fit in it well; Subaru doesn't make full-sized wagons anymore, and the Volvo I looked at is out of my price range.) I've been talking to the local dealer nearest me over email, and they said with the gm employee price discount (fiancee's family works for GM) they would offer a 2020 essence with heated seats, sunroof, leather for "35,151 plus tax and title" from an MSRP of 40,805. However, if I want to get the 0% for 72 months offer, a 2,750 "discount" doesn't "stack" so it would be $37,901. My question is this: as I've never dealt with employee discounts and my only new car buying experience was a long time ago, do I have room to negotiate on this? Truecar lists the "great price" for a slightly better-equipped version of this car as 35,970-37,388 and the market average as 37,246 on an MSRP of 41,700. Certainly, the email offer price seems to fit in the range truecar suggests, but naturally like anybody I'd like to save some money if I can. Should I counter with a lower number? Can I counter with a lower number? If so, what should I go for?
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Mar 31, 2020 18:22
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That doesn't sound like a great deal on a car that has been a sales stinker and now during a huge industry-wide sales nosedive. It's not a rip-off, but it's no screamin' deal. The TourX seems like a neat car, though, just unappreciated by your average American like all other wagons. Sheesh on cars.com there are leftover new stock from 2018 with listed prices near 30k for an Essence trim.
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Mar 31, 2020 18:39
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The TourX is a nice car. You should be picking up aTourX for a lot less than that, drat. especially in COVID-19 era on a very unloved vehicle. That GM employee plan number is like what you ought to get when you just wander up off the street. You should do well if you take it out of inventory from the dealer, which means you may have to be a bit less choosy. If the dealer doesn't have it in stock, it will cost you more because the dealer is incentivized to move units from their inventory. if i go on Buick's own website the MY 2020 Essence with moonroof car you quoted at me less incentives, including D&D but not tax and tags, is $34,445 (inclusive of the cash allowance) so that dealer is not giving you a good price. edit: Edmunds et al transaction data is very suspect right now, since a lot of it is pre-COVID transaction data, and the volumes post COVID are absurdly low meaning that new transactions aren't flowing in to the models at the same rate.
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Mar 31, 2020 19:19
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On thing to know about the Tour-x is that parts, particularly body parts, are extremely thin on the ground. There are posts of cars being in bodyshops for 4+ months due to lack of parts.
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Apr 1, 2020 08:50
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nm posted:On thing to know about the Tour-x is that parts, particularly body parts, are extremely thin on the ground. There are posts of cars being in bodyshops for 4+ months due to lack of parts. Most of the parts other than metal and glass are not TourX specific, though.
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Apr 1, 2020 12:50
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Thanks guys. I'm going to hold off for now based on your suggestions.
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Apr 1, 2020 14:40
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bennyfactor posted:Thanks guys. I'm going to hold off for now based on your suggestions.
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Apr 1, 2020 18:26
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Most of the parts other than metal and glass are not TourX specific, though. But even a fender-bender or 5mph bump means you need those parts. Not exactly a great idea. Tesla has the same problem... people are waiting months after an accident because parts are so scarce. And definitely don't be afraid of buying out of state. I bought my truck in VA, drove it to MA (about 9 hours). My mom bought a Volvo in VA as well, I flew down and drove it back to MA (13 hours). A friend of mine bought a used Tundra from AL, flew down, and drove it back over 2 days. And yeah, shipping cross-country is about a grand, so figure that into the price. Dealers should be discounting those like crazy.
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Apr 1, 2020 21:53
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i bet you can get a cover pretty easily, they're common parts, or at least a cover for a Regal that will bolt up and work just fine. probably won't look like poo poo either. The tough stuff would be rear liftgate, and quarter panel. there's still common sheet metal - doors, hood, front fender are common. edit: most of the poo poo you're likely to crunch at low speed is available or non-economical to repair. aint nobody buying a quarter panel for a parking lot ding KYOON GRIFFEY JR fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Apr 1, 2020 |
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Apr 1, 2020 22:37
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:You should do well if you take it out of inventory from the dealer, which means you may have to be a bit less choosy. If the dealer doesn't have it in stock, it will cost you more because the dealer is incentivized to move units from their inventory. Nitrox posted:Also, feel free to haggle. If the dealer says no to your low-ball offer oh, it's not the end of the world. You can make another offer that is slightly higher, or not. Shipping a car across country it's something like $600. If somebody offers you a better deal several states away, take it. Just make sure that's the car you want by test driving a model locally. Hey, so, as someone who's still in the market because of *everything*, is there a good effortpost anywhere about what we should be doing in the COVID-19 sales environment?
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Apr 2, 2020 15:35
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it's a bit the wild west out there in terms of dealer closures etc but basically the same poo poo you'd be doing in a non-COVID-19 environment eg negotiate with multiple dealers, focus on OTD price before you discuss financing etc, know the rebates and incentives ahead of time, know your price benchmarks, be opportunistic about aged inventory, etc. the only things you can't really do or i would not recommend you do are a test drive - so if you haven't done test drive already and or know exactly what you want to buy i would strongly recommend you hold off on purchase. you should also force them to do delivery to you.
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Apr 2, 2020 16:13
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Proposed Budget: 7-20K New or Used: Used or New Body Style: Hatchback or Wagon How will you be using the car?: Mostly just getting around, I don't currently need to drive to work (WFH for now, but I live close enough that I can bike and take public transportation), but I would use it for errands, traveling, and meeting with friends and family. What aspects are most important to you?: Decent MPG, reliable, low cost-of-ownership, manual transmission preferred (but I'd be open to an automatic/CVT for the right car). Models I'm already considering are the Honda Fit, Volkswagen Golf, Toyota Yaris, and Kia Rio, but I'm open to just about anything. As far as any other questions go, I've run into some rust issues with my current car, an '09 Honda Fit. What could I do to prevent this in the future? I have regularly washed it, but I bought it five years ago, and I think it was already past prevention at that point. nitsuga fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Apr 3, 2020 |
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Apr 3, 2020 18:11
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congrats, that gen fit had body and water management issues. any other modern car should not have similar problems (including subsequent Fits). Here are some additions: Mazda3 hatch - buy this if you like driving and a good driving experience. Hyundai Elantra GT - good value buy, more common than the Rio Used Ford Focus hatch - if you're buying manual you avoid the poo poo transmission and they are good value on the used market Kia Soul - box Toyota Corolla iM - Mazda2 wagon, good driving dynamics, kind of an orphan since it only existed for a few years I would in general hold off on buying a used car right now in the midst of COVID nonsense, especially since you do not need one. Don't take on cost you don't need to, and actually buying a car is going to be an ungodly pain in the rear end.
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Apr 3, 2020 20:46
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I would in general hold off on buying a used car right now in the midst of COVID nonsense, especially since you do not need one. Don't take on cost you don't need to, and actually buying a car is going to be an ungodly pain in the rear end. Can you go into this a little more? I'm in the market for a 2018ish used car, and would be great to know if I'd be better off waiting.
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Apr 3, 2020 20:54
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saintonan posted:Can you go into this a little more? I'm in the market for a 2018ish used car, and would be great to know if I'd be better off waiting. Do your homework and zero in on what you want and what price constitutes a good deal. Wait until you actually need it to pull the trigger. Right now, there's a lot of uncertainty. Market values, interest rates, and availability may fluctuate considerably in the next few months. Additionally, the physical process of buying and taking possession of the car will be a pain in the rear end for a while. If you have to have a car right now, then you have to act. Dealers will likely to be desperate to move inventory soon, though, so you're probably going to be better off waiting as long as you can.
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Apr 3, 2020 20:59
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Like Subaru who's now offering 63 months zero interest, which is pretty bonkers to me as they usually only do this on prior MY and sometimes even do 0.9% to cover their admin costs. I suspect they are hurting now and with less people driving right now and more jobless, it'll get worse before it gets better.
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Apr 3, 2020 21:19
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Thanks for the suggestions and good points, all. I am currently under a stay-at-home order, so I can't do anything just yet, but I'll start reading up on some reviews. It probably is indeed wise to hold off to see what happens with work and everything before taking on the debt, but I'll start keeping better tabs on things, and probably go for it once I can get some test drives in (and hopefully finding a good deal). That said, what constitutes a good deal these days? Would you be looking for a percentage off MSRP, even considering I'm shopping somewhat of the low end of the market? nitsuga fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Apr 3, 2020 |
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Apr 3, 2020 21:55
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nitsuga posted:That said, what constitutes a good deal these days? Would you be looking for a percentage off MSRP, even considering I'm shopping somewhat of the low end of the market? It depends on the car for a variety of reasons. On a Honda Fit, there's not much of a discount usually. On a Dodge truck, start negotiations at like $20k off MSRP.
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Apr 3, 2020 23:39
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saintonan posted:Can you go into this a little more? I'm in the market for a 2018ish used car, and would be great to know if I'd be better off waiting. are you buying a car because you need a car or because you want a car? be very judicious about this, most people say the former but they really mean the latter. if it's the latter, I would recommend no for the following reasons: 1) if you're already furloughed or unemployed, don't buy a car. should be self explanatory. 2) if you still have your job there is an increased likelihood that you will have your income cut or your job eliminated in the near future. not an ideal time to take on debt. 3) assuming your job is highly secure, why do you want to risk exposure and inevitably break social distancing rules to buy a car? 4) if you're working from home, why pay $X/mo for a car you are going to drive what, maybe ~100 mi/mo? if you need to buy a car, you can probably do it, but literally every step of the process typically requires person-to-person interaction and contact. if you are in the market for a late model used car, there are also going to be absolutely insane deals on new cars in the next couple of weeks so you should be looking very closely at that instead.
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Apr 5, 2020 19:53
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nitsuga posted:Thanks for the suggestions and good points, all. I am currently under a stay-at-home order, so I can't do anything just yet, but I'll start reading up on some reviews. It probably is indeed wise to hold off to see what happens with work and everything before taking on the debt, but I'll start keeping better tabs on things, and probably go for it once I can get some test drives in (and hopefully finding a good deal). websites like Edmunds and truecar give you a reasonable approximation of what is an acceptable deal I also forgot to add that new car inventories may get screwy because a lot of plants are shut down now, but there's still a big pile of inventory in transit and on dealers lots and nobody is buying, so if you absolutely must buy a car it isn't a terrible time to do it. Deals will get better before they get worse, though, and you're not going to be able to be all that choosy about trim and colors outside of major metros.
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Apr 5, 2020 19:54
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Hi thread, somebody T-boned me last night and (presumably) totaled my car. So I'm forced to buy a car soon; looking at VW Golf wagons and am looking to spend about 20000. Should I try to play the game out with a rental and wait for the new market to get wild dealy, or get something lightly used?
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Apr 5, 2020 20:02
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:are you buying a car because you need a car or because you want a car? be very judicious about this, most people say the former but they really mean the latter. if it's the latter, I would recommend no for the following reasons: Oh, it's a I want, not a need. I will not be losing my income at any point in this crisis. I have an SUV and would like to transition down to a sedan to lower payments and focus that money elsewhere. I do work from home but don't expect that to last beyond the summer, when I expect to be driving on average about 20k miles a year again. I have credit union financing in place already, and a couple of dealerships I've called advertise that they'll do everything except the actual final signing over the internet to maximize distancing. It isn't super critical to do this in the next 60 days, though. What insane deals are coming? I see April financing deals on new cars and what I've seen is 0% financing and 1500 cash back (some not even that), which seems to make new OTD prices ~$4-6k higher than 2018 prices of the same model. What should I be waiting for?
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Apr 5, 2020 20:47
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saintonan posted:Oh, it's a I want, not a need. I will not be losing my income at any point in this crisis. I have an SUV and would like to transition down to a sedan to lower payments Wow.....so, here's the thing. Maybe you get a deal on something, but have you considered how poor your trade in value is going to be in a reality where nobody is moving cars?
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Apr 5, 2020 20:56
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Motronic posted:Wow.....so, here's the thing. Maybe you get a deal on something, but have you considered how poor your trade in value is going to be in a reality where nobody is moving cars? That's one reason for me *not* to wait, since I've got a couple 30-day offers still valid to buy the trade-in vehicle (one local dealership and a Carvana offer) even if I don't buy its replacement from them. After those expire, I don't know.
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Apr 5, 2020 21:06
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At least one AI goon had a Carvana offer rescinded (or otherwise cancelled) due to economic factors, so don't count that as a done deal.
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Apr 5, 2020 21:33
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saintonan posted:Oh, it's a I want, not a need. I will not be losing my income at any point in this crisis. I have an SUV and would like to transition down to a sedan to lower payments and focus that money elsewhere. I do work from home but don't expect that to last beyond the summer, when I expect to be driving on average about 20k miles a year again. I have credit union financing in place already, and a couple of dealerships I've called advertise that they'll do everything except the actual final signing over the internet to maximize distancing. first of all, advertised deals vs what you can get if you talk to someone who's desperate are different. and dealers are desperate right now and getting more desperate. quick post on how (one aspect of) new car dealers work: The manufacturer takes cash for delivered vehicles, and the dealer does not want to pay cash up front. As a result dealers finance their inventory and have basically a revolving credit line from a bank. This is called their floor plan. It's usually a set amount of credit that they can draw on and for any decent sized store is going to be close to or more than seven figures. Most dealers are very good customers for banks, and so the first 60 days of the floorplan is interest-free or at extraordinarily low rates. After 60 days, interest charges kick in. So, once a given unit passes the 60 day mark, it costs the dealer money to keep it on hand. The dealer is heavily incentivized to move these units. So if the dealer has say, a 70 day old black Golf Sportwagen S 6M in stock, and you show up wanting a white one, the salesman is going to try like hell to get you in that car because every day the dealer keeps it, it loses money. Now, new car sales were off in March something like 40-60% (final figures not in yet in most cases), so what does that mean? Dealers try to hold 45-60 days of inventory so that you have lots of options and they can give you want you want out of stock. If I'm a dealer carrying 45 days of supply, and sales fall off by 50%, now I'm carrying 90 days of cars... and that was before social distancing kicked in fully. April is going to be dire. My inventory over April sales is probably going to be 120, 180 days, maybe more. So if social distancing stays, I will start getting bit for financing charges on that inventory very soon AND my cash flow situation sucks so I can't necessarily pay my bills. I'm not sure what kind of relief floor plan financers are offering to dealers - maybe there's something, but the bank has got to make money too. Even if the interest is cut to zero, the dealer needs the cash now to pay other bills. Cash flow is half of pre-COVID (roughly) and you can't cut that many operating costs. I think in mid-April if you walk in to a dealership and you offer to take the car off their hands for full incentives and holdback they'll say yes. You might even get them to take a small true loss on the car just to get cash out of it. If you're trying to get a trade, it either won't happen or you will absolutely get hosed on the deal. And your trade offers are dead. They're nonbinding anyway so the only way they're not dead is if you were getting so resoundingly hosed on the deal in the first place that the dealer still thinks its a good piece of business now.
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Apr 5, 2020 22:53
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UncleButts posted:Hi thread, somebody T-boned me last night and (presumably) totaled my car. So I'm forced to buy a car soon; looking at VW Golf wagons and am looking to spend about 20000. Should I try to play the game out with a rental and wait for the new market to get wild dealy, or get something lightly used? What trim, etc? The used world is loving nuts already, just some quick browsing showed me sub-10k mi 2019 SE 1.4Ts for $17,5. I think if you get in to the market now you'll probably do OK, especially since you are not trying to get a trade valued.
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Apr 5, 2020 22:56
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:What trim, etc? The used world is loving nuts already, just some quick browsing showed me sub-10k mi 2019 SE 1.4Ts for $17,5. I think if you get in to the market now you'll probably do OK, especially since you are not trying to get a trade valued. I'm not married to a particular trim level, but I've owned a Golf in the past and liked it quite a bit. I do see some similar deals to that locally and will probably go check them out tomorrow. Edit: Goon opinion on this Carvana listing? Seems P good to me, the AWD would rip in Wisconsin winters, and I would love to skip dealerships https://www.carvana.com/vehicle/1421942 UncleButts fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Apr 6, 2020 |
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Apr 5, 2020 23:43
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Hmm, not outrageous to offer the low end of what KBB says for a Fit LX with a manual then? Kind of between that and a VW Golf at the moment. They’re asking $17,145 FWIW. I’m in MN too, and more in the want camp than the need one. I might have the best chance at getting just a little bit selling my current car in the near future though. nitsuga fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Apr 6, 2020 |
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Apr 6, 2020 02:36
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UncleButts posted:I'm not married to a particular trim level, but I've owned a Golf in the past and liked it quite a bit. I do see some similar deals to that locally and will probably go check them out tomorrow. I have an Alltrack S, same thing but with a small lift and some black plastic. It's a good car and you're avoiding the known problem spot on higher trims, which is the panoramic roof. That being said, I don't know that I'd spend a thousand dollars to avoid a dealership, which appears to be the premium you would pay over advertised prices elsewhere.
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Apr 6, 2020 12:19
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nitsuga posted:Hmm, not outrageous to offer the low end of what KBB says for a Fit LX with a manual then? Kind of between that and a VW Golf at the moment. They’re asking $17,145 FWIW. if you're willing to take delivery out of dealer stock, you can offer invoice. dealer will make holdback and that's a lot better than making $0 and having the car sit. always negotiate on OTD price of course.
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Apr 6, 2020 12:21
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I'm not sure what kind of relief floor plan financers are offering to dealers - maybe there's something, but the bank has got to make money too. Even if the interest is cut to zero, the dealer needs the cash now to pay other bills. Cash flow is half of pre-COVID (roughly) and you can't cut that many operating costs. I think in mid-April if you walk in to a dealership and you offer to take the car off their hands for full incentives and holdback they'll say yes. You might even get them to take a small true loss on the car just to get cash out of it. Thanks for this. I emailed my dealership contacts this morning and they said the offers were still valid, but only as trade-ins, not outright purchases. That makes sense to me.
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Apr 6, 2020 16:22
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:if you're willing to take delivery out of dealer stock, you can offer invoice. dealer will make holdback and that's a lot better than making $0 and having the car sit. always negotiate on OTD price of course. Thanks! Does it change much for used cars? I’m looking at a CPO 2017 Jetta SE with 44,000 miles and they’re asking for $13,000. Seems like a decent deal, and the car wasn’t half bad at all. Looks like KBB says as low as $12,400 isn’t outrageous, just wondering if I shouldn’t shoot ask if they’ll do just a bit less.
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Apr 8, 2020 20:31
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whats the bad outcome if you say yo i will take that car off your hands for $11,5 are you really that worried that some bored rear end used car manager is gonna tell you no?
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Apr 8, 2020 20:53
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:whats the bad outcome if you say yo i will take that car off your hands for $11,5 are you really that worried that some bored rear end used car manager is gonna tell you no?
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Apr 8, 2020 21:11
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Cool, dug up a Golf too that I’m going to check out. Looks like pricing varies more on those, so I might give that tactic a try.
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Apr 9, 2020 03:04
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AI meets BFC: No Rentals, No Salvage Titles, no Test Drives
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Apr 9, 2020 04:33
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How does the talk in the recent posts hold for used vehicles? My mom is looking at a 2018 Odyssey Elite. She doesn't need to test drive it and she'll pay cash so I don't think she will even need to meet in person with anyone. But anyway, edmunds says:  Assuming the dealer paid around the "trade-in" value there, I'm thinking she shouldn't be paying much more than that during The Plague. Thoughts? Thermopyle fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Apr 11, 2020 |
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Apr 11, 2020 17:13
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Ive been scouring for why it might be bad to get a 2014 Cadenza, but I'm not finding anything. Are they good? They're so depreciated.
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Apr 11, 2020 23:16
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