 Yuuuuge!  Cooper get out of there you are not a fish. Also my water is basically liquid rock which, since I am not planning on doing rift lakes cichlids, is not good. Think I should go with an RO system so I can dilute tap water to a more reasonable hardness? E: gonna go with RO. Resting Lich Face fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Apr 7, 2020 |
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Apr 7, 2020 20:37
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Definitely go with RO and maybe don't bother diluting tap water, just pick up some Seachem Equilibrium. Very easy and no issues with inconsistent tap water.
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Apr 7, 2020 23:40
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Dude on a local FB page asked what every rear end in a top hat asks when they get some large aggressive fish: in his case, exodon tetras. wHaT cAn I kEeP wItH tHeM? Why. Why do you pick loving nasty aggressive species and then realize you want other fish in the tank that are not feeders?
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Apr 8, 2020 00:56
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A Time to Kill
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Apr 8, 2020 01:02
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Resting Lich Face posted:
This is amazing and I can’t wait to see the finished product. I’m so jealous. And yeah, go with the RO. They’re not that expensive and you’ll know you’re not putting trash in your tank.
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Apr 8, 2020 01:54
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Filters are here. Literally 24 hours since I ordered them. Nice.
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Apr 8, 2020 22:22
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Is there an alternative mirror to AQ advisor? I'd like to get back into the hobby this year, but I can't decide what I want except scrimps, snails and peacock gobies.
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Apr 9, 2020 04:50
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Someone not far back posted that they'd used some advisor, I haven't found one yet since aqadvisor died for good. If you know one please post it!
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Apr 9, 2020 10:06
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My new six line wrasse has murdered all of my hermit crabs in the span of like 10 days. I had no idea what was killing them until I just watched him flip a shell over and start attacking the last one. At least he leaves the other fish and snails alone but drat man. Demonic.
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Apr 10, 2020 19:30
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I just killed a danio by accidentally pinning him against the glass when I was trying to get him. I hate catching fish so much.
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Apr 10, 2020 21:31
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Aw nooo DeadlyMuffin that's the worst! The best advice I ever got for catching fish was to use the biggest net possible, hold it still, and herd the fish into it with a smaller net. You want them to be scared of the small net but not the big net. Then you can gently lift the big net around the fish. I've just moved a bunch of 18 rasboras using this method, as surface dwellers you can hold the net fairly flat under them and lift it and scoop them that way. I did some corydoras too, for bottom dwellers you hold the net parallel with the tank wall but you shoo the fish away from the wall and into the net and then again lift the net out. It pretty much involves taking as much clutter out of the tank as possible so you have room for the huge net though.
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Apr 11, 2020 06:38
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Seconding two nets. It's easier to catch them without trying to get one to a wall.
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Apr 11, 2020 09:23
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Good day my fellow fish herders. I have a friend that is going to place an order on Amazon.ca for me to pick up some things and would appreciate your input. Refresher/summary for ease of reference: I inherited a fantail fancy goldfish of an indeterminate age (years old but could be 5, could be 15?) and gender from a friend of a friend who could no longer care for it. Their tank broke and the fish had been living in a five gallon pail for some months. The fish(Cuno) currently resides in an Aqueon 10 gallon starter kit tank w/o the preset heater. I initially ran into issues with high nitrite and nitrate levels using 5 in 1 API test strips but as of last test was able to find a balance and showed no levels of either. Cuno seems to be doing relatively well, he swims around the entire tank to scavenge, can be very energetic, scales seem shiny, no visible fin damage. Misc notes/details on current setup: - Filtration: stock HoB power filter (circulates 100g/hour peak/max) that supports a filter cartridge and specialty filter pad (using ammonia reducing version) - replace cartridge every 4-6 weeks, specialty pad every 3-4 - Tank location: It is on top of a low glass top media stand with a lamp and couple plants on it, it is tucked away from direct sunlight but received indirect sunlight from two directions. It seems level using a phone app and there doesn't appear to be any significant bend to glass top to cause concern. - Tank contents: 1-2" pebble substrate (a bit larger than gravel), 3 small shells, 2 larger decorative rocks (sit on substrate) and 3 medium-sized decorative plants - Maintenance: siphon and replace 50% of water weekly adding caps of Big Al's water conditioner and bio-support, scrub stuff in the tank using tank water during this process, scrub inside walls of tank a bit, rinse filter cartridge and specialty pad with tank water, sometimes clean HoB filter parts - Feeding: I feed the fish once a day in the evening, switch between floating/sinking pellets and flakes, try to dole it out in small portions to give them time to eat and avoid it getting stuck in filter or substrate, try to give enough for them to finish in 2-3 minutes. I sometimes steam and rinse pieces of kale or lettuce for them to nibble on, usually take what's left out after a 2-3 days or when it looks like it is going bad. - Lighting: Standard LED hood that came with starter kit, trying to do 12/12, plan to get a timer to set an exact schedule. - Temp: Using a digital thermometer sunken into the substrate to monitor, typically is 74-76F - if I notice it going above I try to lower using trays of ice cubes I keep available. Ways I could improve my setup: 1. Additional filtration - box or sponge filter w/ air pump 2. Replace HoB filter w/ larger HoB unit I can install bio-media in or a canister filter 3. Restock test materials - wet or dry - need to test for: pH, ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, carbonate hardness and general water hardness 4. Replace tank with one that is 20-25g or greater 5. Put lighting on timer to create set schedule - 12/12 or ??? 6. Install a living plant - Java Ferns (windelov, narrowleaf, etc...), Anubias, Bacopa Caroliniana, Water Sprite, Indian Water Fern, Elodea, Duckweed (needs to be grown elsewhere) - my understanding none of these would require different or additional lighting 7. Use carbonate hardness additive if necessary based on testing 8. Add companions - Snails, Bamboo Shimp, Hillstream (Butterfly) Loach, White Cloud Minnows, Weater Loach (Dojo), Fantails, Ryukins, - some if not all will require a larger tank 9. Replace lighting to allow for greater number of living plant options My next step was going to be purchasing and installing a box filter like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Underwater-Dr...86635079&sr=8-6 paired with an air pump like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Tetra-77851-W...6640837&sr=8-3. Would it be more worthwhile to invest in a better HoB filter with bio-media such as this unit: https://www.amazon.ca/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=fish+tank+HoB+filter&qid=1586641064&sr=8-4. Additional questions: - Should I consider a chiller when I'm able to afford it? Current avg is 74-76F, I live in an apartment building and unfortunately have little control over the temp of my apartment, it doesn't have A/C but I might install a unit for the summer. - What test kit offers the best balance between affordability and accuracy? My understanding is wet is more accurate, this seems like a better long term solution than a 25-pack of strips: https://www.amazon.ca/API-FRESHWATE...86635199&sr=8-2 - Someone mentioned these previously: https://www.amazon.ca/Seachem-Alert...upplies&sr=1-2. Anyone have any experience with them? Their point was that accuracy isn't important since any level of ammonia would need to be addressed. Levin fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Apr 11, 2020 |
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Apr 11, 2020 22:47
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Corte posted:
Ideas: -Add companions - Snails good!, Bamboo Shrimp maybe!, Hillstream (Butterfly) Loach probably no, needs good strong flow and oxygenation, White Cloud Minnows maybe, unless fish is big enough to snack on them fast swimming schooling fish so despite small size would appreciate swimming room, Weather Loach (Dojo) no way they get huge and also need loach friends to be happy, would require a MUCH bigger tank, Fantails, Ryukins - better, goldfish species only likely to be more successful. -a larger tank would necessitate a different stand. You are probably maybe fine with your 10g tank because it isn't that heavy but I would definitely not put a heavier tank on your glass top stand. -chiller, really not needed. Goldfish are hardy enough and chillers are expensive and more intended for maintaining fragile expensive marine life. Money would be better spent on larger tank and stand. I believe if you are comfortable temperature-wise the fish will be comfortable. Re: ice cubes, I would not add unless I noticed the fish in distress, or if increasing aeration didn't help. They don't mind it warmer some of the time just not all the time warm. -the box filter looks good, maybe a bigger air pump would be useful so you can continue to use it if you upgrade tank size. Air pumps have to overcome the depth of the water to push air down to the bottom of the tank so undersizing the air pump could mean no or little flow in a deeper tank. Better to oversize it and then use an airline valve in the tubing to set the flow how you want. These kind of pumps can be noisy, if this is an issue maybe better to get the biggest hang on back filter that will fit in the space available. I'd still lean towards both because it's extra surface area, and if you want a scrubbed clean tank you need to provide spaces that won't get scrubbed to allow bacteria to settle. A hang on back filter with the water level set correctly doesn't make much noise at all.
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Apr 12, 2020 04:55
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Definitely going to second that for companions, you're always best choosing other goldfish. They'll appreciate it more as well, though snails as an addition to another goldfish isn't so bad. I'm not super familiar with the fancy goldfish type, but I have a couple of goldfish willing to try and eat snails (and some have successfully done so, as I've found a few smashed shells from them being thrashed on things before). If fancies are anything like that, you want ones that have a decent size.
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Apr 12, 2020 22:11
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I’ve heard 30 gallons for two
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Apr 12, 2020 22:14
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Just wanted to share my tanks: Started off with a 32 gallon Biocube. This is from last year.  Over time, had a huge green algae outbreak and had to break it down. This is it today.  Second tank upgrade to 140 gallons.  And some close ups.      
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Apr 12, 2020 23:48
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Awesome. That's a beautiful BTA. I don't remember seeing so many red/green mixed ones until the last couple years
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Apr 13, 2020 00:12
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That is an amazing tank. AND the mandarin fish looks happy! Aw.
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Apr 13, 2020 00:46
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So I have everything for my big fat tank except lighting. A 30" depth presents challenges. I found a couple mentions of people using cheap knockoff LED light bars for cars to good effect on deep tanks. Certainly a cheap option, I could get it done for like 50 bucks. Thoughts?
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Apr 13, 2020 01:26
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Resting Lich Face posted:So I have everything for my big fat tank except lighting. A 30" depth presents challenges. I found a couple mentions of people using cheap knockoff LED light bars for cars to good effect on deep tanks. Certainly a cheap option, I could get it done for like 50 bucks. Thoughts? Are they going to be the proper wavelength? That matters right? e: Those tanks are gorgeous!
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Apr 13, 2020 01:34
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VelociBacon posted:Are they going to be the proper wavelength? That matters right? It does and that is the main concern. It's just an idea, I'll probably go with something more normal. A vehicle-designed one would definitely get me the power for a deep tank but iffy spectrum and having to wire them (not that big a deal, but it is something I'd need to do) are the points against. Resting Lich Face fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Apr 13, 2020 |
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Apr 13, 2020 01:41
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I have a 22” tall 36 gallon tank with a lame all-white LED strip built into the lens hood and my plants grow like weeds. Does an extra 7” matter than much? And no that’s not a dick joke.
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Apr 13, 2020 16:48
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Stoca Zola posted:Water softeners replace "hard" ions such as calcium and magnesium (which are required for aquatic and plant life) with the "soft" ion, sodium. Sodium chemicals are way more soluble than calcium or magnesium which means no hard water stains. It also means you're exposing your livestock to levels of sodium that they might be unaccustomed to, and denying them access to calcium and magnesium which they need. I don't know exactly what your water would be like but you've likely got water chemistry that is good for doing laundry and washing dishes and not good for maintaining aquatic life. I don't think guppies would mind sodium exposure but they do need the hard water minerals, while minnows might not mind the lack of hard water minerals but might not cope well with sodium. Who knows though, it might all be fine and the problem might be somewhere else; we can't tell until you test your water. This is why testing TDS as well as GH and KH is important. Does anyone else have a better idea what implications water softeners have for fishkeeping? Thanks for the advice and sorry for not getting back sooner. Been an interesting couple of months. First of all, I got some more tests, so I can now test GH and KH. Results since the start of testing: code:As you can also see I also lost two more fish. I was worried about oxygen levels in the water (mostly because I couldn't think of anything else that could be wrong) so I wanted to get a separate air pump instead of just using the aerator on the pump. Looks like I spent too long deciding what to buy, and the fish died the same day all the kit arrived. I now have a bubble wall and the fish (in particular the minnows) seem a lot happier. RIP Link, you were a good gourami. In happier news, baby guppies getting bigger:  12 Mar  6 Apr They're not afraid of the other fish any more, and happy to eat flakes bigger than they are. One day I'll take a picture with a proper camera.
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Apr 14, 2020 16:34
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Looks like something went wrong around the 22nd to give you that ammonia spike, that might have been enough to push some stressed or unwell fish over the edge but it's hard to say at this point. At least you've got a better handle on what's going on now. Your pH additive is removing kH which is your buffer - which is what you want if you need to have a pH lower than what it is. Don't let kH go too low, maybe not under 5, you need some safety margin to prevent a pH crash. Don't chase your pH too much, just try and keep it stable even at something like 7.5 would be pretty reasonable for most fish. With your constant low level of ammonia right now, it's either a false positive from treated chloramines in your water or there's some other problem, you really want that to be zero. Glad your guppy babies are doing well, fish you've grown yourself will do a lot better in the conditions you have because they'll be used to it. I have some new baby fish myself, my red sided barbs now have some days old fry mixed in with some couple of weeks old fry, all living in the clumps of susswassertang I've given them. I don't really ever see the adult fish, they are absolutely wild and timid and shy but the new baby fish swim in the open and eat food I feed them and so on, so I hope it will be similar to my old rosy barbs - the adults will feel more comfortable once the baby fish grow to size and show them that the tank is safe.
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Apr 14, 2020 20:41
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ColobusMonkey posted:Just wanted to share my tanks: You've nailed it man. Those are astonishingly beautiful. That cleaner shrimp is awesome and mine is one of my favorite things to watch. Spastic as all hell. What camera did you use to take those detail shots? I have a hard time on my phone and haven't tried the DSLR but I'm still curious. Maybe you and others can answer this: My hermit crabs keep dying. I've got a 20 gallon Waterbox Cube saltwater tank. Reef and fish. All of my levels are good. 1.025 salinity, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 2ppm nitrate, 9dKH, 8.2pH, 0 phosphate, 400ish calcium. Weekly 20% water changes. ATO is RO/DI water. The crabs keep showing up outside of their shells blowing around in the current. I don't think(?) they're molting because they look and act completely dead and my other fish (two clowns and a six-line wrasse) are picking at the corpses. I've probably been through 5-6 of them in the past month. Anyone have any idea why they'd leave their shells and just....die? I'm kind of at a loss. The fish, coral, snails and cleaner shrimp are thriving. It's the hermit crabs that don't seem to last longer than a couple of weeks at most and I do not get it. e: the bodies started to hit the floor when I got the wrasse. I am not sure if he's the culprit because one of the hermits is fairly large, but he aggressively eats and picks at the dead ones. SixPabst fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Apr 15, 2020 |
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Apr 15, 2020 03:09
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Eeeeee even more tiny barb fry spotted today, this is from the red sided barbs too which seem to be quite happy to colony breed as long as they have enough vegetation to remain permanently hidden. The first three fry are swimming and feeding in the open and I can see at least three more tiny fry picking at stuff on the tank walls so I think the tank bred fish are going to be much less shy for sure. Fed the tank some baby grindal worms tonight so hopefully the smallest fry get some size on and get out of the snack-size danger zone soon.
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Apr 15, 2020 18:31
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SixPabst posted:e: the bodies started to hit the floor when I got the wrasse. I am not sure if he's the culprit because one of the hermits is fairly large, but he aggressively eats and picks at the dead ones.
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Apr 16, 2020 00:50
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What brand of tanks are good these days? I was torn between getting the coralife 16 gallon cube, a UNS 16 all in one or the UNS 21 gallon or a random 20 gallon tank and I pick the parts?
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Apr 16, 2020 04:29
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SixPabst posted:You've nailed it man. Those are astonishingly beautiful. That cleaner shrimp is awesome and mine is one of my favorite things to watch. Spastic as all hell. What camera did you use to take those detail shots? I have a hard time on my phone and haven't tried the DSLR but I'm still curious. Maybe you and others can answer this: Thanks. I used an iPhone pro max with the Camera+ 2 app. Jacksonville has a great trading group, you can get frags for really cheap. A lot of these zoas I’ve gotten were from $5-20 a pop. The shrimp was actually a freebie because some guy said it was eating his coral (?). I’m pretty sure it’s your wrasse that’s eating your hermit crabs. If you get them big enough your wrasse might leave them alone.
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Apr 16, 2020 05:55
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Corte posted:Good day my fellow fish herders. I have a friend that is going to place an order on Amazon.ca for me to pick up some things and would appreciate your input. Refresher/summary for ease of reference: API water test kit came in here are results: pH 7.6-8: my understanding is 7.2-7.6 is ideal Ammonia 0.25-0.50ppm: my understanding is 0 is ideal Nitrite 0: my understanding is under 0.25ppm is ideal Nitrate 5-10pm: my understanding is under 40ppm is ideal I replaced around 50% of the tank water a couple days ago. I can't recall now when I last changed the specialty filter pad for ammonia or filter cartridge. I'm inclined to do another water replacement and replace these items at the same time but hoping for input. Is it possible to replace too much water or too often? I don't have a means of testing for general or carbonate hardness currently. The air pump for my box filter has come in but unfortunately the box filter may not come in until some time in May. Is there a way to craft my own from parts around the house or from the grocery store?
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Apr 16, 2020 22:55
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 Some progress! Waiting on some slow stuff to ship then we get going plumbing.
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Apr 17, 2020 01:16
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pH 7.6-8: my understanding is 7.2-7.6 is ideal 7.6-8 is fine for most fish. This pH indicates that you have kH present, and unless you have a softener installed, you likely have some gH present too. I wouldn't worry about changing this much more as long as it is stable over time. Ammonia 0.25-0.50ppm: my understanding is 0 is ideal Not ideal, but necessary. You want it as close to zero as possible, you want your filter to consume it as soon as it is produced. For levels like this you can dose Prime or your water conditioner of choice and it should detoxify it and buy some time for the filter to consume it - that is, when you have sufficient biological filtration. Ammonia is less toxic at pH lower than 7, something like it becomes ammonium ions which are less harmful and at the pH levels your tank is at, it's more important to get rid of it as soon as you can. If it starts to build up I think that means your chemical filtration (the special pad) is exhausted and needs to be replaced. If you can change just that part and leave the rest in, do so. Nitrite 0: my understanding is under 0.25ppm is ideal 0 is good, your nitrite bacteria are keeping up even if your ammonia bacteria are not. Or your chemical filtration is keeping up with nitrite not ammonia? Not sure at this point. Nitrate 5-10pm: my understanding is under 40ppm is ideal This is fine. Is it possible to replace too much water or too often? Since there is ammonia present it might be worth another water change for the health of the fish. I think you need to replace your chemical filtration and leave any mechanical/biological pads that you have still running. I think with shrimp a large water change can shock them, with fish if the water becomes too different too quickly it can shock them too. If the water change water is too cold or the chemistry is too different, etc. But ammonia really is poisonous for fish in the short term, I think since your filtration is struggling it's worth doing a water change rather than extra dosing with prime and hoping the filter will catch up. If you had more biological filtration it would be a different story I think, I'd say dose with prime and monitor it and only water change again if it keeps getting worse. Is there a way to craft my own from parts around the house or from the grocery store? Yes there is! I sent a YouTube video before of how to make one with a plastic takeaway container but the parts you might be missing are the tubes, the airline, and the filtration media. 100% polyester filling is equivalent to filter floss, and while it's mostly used as mechanical filtration anything that provides surface area can act as biological filtration too. Not useful if you don't have any laying about leftover from some crafty pillow stuffing project. Something that might work for you is to set up an algae scrubber since I don't think you've got quick or easy access to biological media. It's like an area of the tank, usually between a flat plate and against the tank wall, where you use air to prove good water flow, and shine a light at it all the time. Usually an LED to avoid heat problems. The algae grows in the light and consumes the nitrates and ammonia, in theory. Ok I'm going to post this then edit when I get off mobile and on to a pc where I can post links more easily. Edit: Here are some example home made air powered filters https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mp312H2qAWM you don't need an airstone at the end of your airline, or to cut the sponge into tiny pieces, or to have a weird endcap on the uplift tube. Pushing a flat sheet into a cylinder shape would have worked fine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmXWmgOJAcY Similar design but using a glass jar, better for weighing the whole thing down really. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZusHO9MtaU Completely different plastic bottle design, same principle - the rising bubbles pull water up through the lift tube, which forces water to move through the filter floss, which traps particles and provides a surface for bacteria to live. Once you get the idea of how and why these work it will be easier to make something yourself with what you have available. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5-SKP6oKfM an example of an algae scrubber - a lot of people use these in their reef sumps but I think it would work fine in freshwater too. If you haven't got plastic canvas like a lot of these use, just roughing up the surface of the tray would help give the algae a surface to cling to. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0NHYOq_XG0 what you could expect in an algae scrubber - periodically just remove the bulk of the plant, and you're performing a nutrient export out of your water. Stoca Zola fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Apr 17, 2020 |
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Apr 17, 2020 07:32
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Test your tap water. Mine is 0.25-0.50 ppm from the tap, but goes to 0 in the tank within a day of a water change (i.e. the tank’s biological filter takes care of it). Although you say it has been a couple of days since your last water change, so maybe your bio filter isn’t sufficient. Also, iirc test kits like API freshwater can’t differentiate between ammonia (more toxic) and ammonium (less toxic); they only measure total organic carbon (the sum of ammonia and ammonium). If ammonia is present in your tap water, then Prime will convert it to ammonium (as well as dechlorinating). If you do have ammonia, the toxicity to fish is both temperature and pH dependent. For a given ppm of ammonia, the higher the pH and the higher the water temperature, the more toxic the ammonia is to the fish. See this link link
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Apr 17, 2020 10:23
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Paracetamol posted:so maybe your bio filter isn’t sufficient. This is exactly it - it's a new 10g tank with a lovely spotty fantail goldfish rescue, running this filter https://www.bigalspets.com/aqueon-quietflow-led-pro-aquarium-power-filters.html so we think even if it was fully cycled there's not enough biological media to account for a whole goldfish. But things as they are right now, its not so trivial to replace things! What are you keeping Paracetamol? Salt or fresh? Got any cool pictures of snail infestations to share? 
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Apr 17, 2020 16:05
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 My planted tank looked gorgeous in the sunlight yesterday :-)
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Apr 17, 2020 17:43
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Wow that is so nice looking  it looks so full but also still roomy which to me is quite an achievement for a tall tank!
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Apr 17, 2020 17:48
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DeadlyMuffin posted:
Is it weird that I wanna put glofish in something like that?
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Apr 17, 2020 18:46
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Stoca Zola posted:sage advice Thanks for all your help Stoca! I went through the videos and I believe I can likely rig something up similar. Here are some pics of the air pump for reference:    For the bio-media would the pebbles I use for my substrate work? My feeling is they wouldn't be great since they aren't porous. My friend has a bag of smaller aquarium gravel they are willing to give me if it'll help. I'm missing a pipe or hose to be the outlet and also filter floss or sponge. I could try to cut off a piece of the hose for my siphon. Would cotton wool or balls work instead of filter floss? Would any sponge I could pick up at a grocery store work well enough? My feeling is they might be too dense to allow for sufficient water flow. In terms of sealing around the hoses would using a glue gun be acceptable? Paracetamol posted:If you do have ammonia, the toxicity to fish is both temperature and pH dependent. For a given ppm of ammonia, the higher the pH and the higher the water temperature, the more toxic the ammonia is to the fish. See this link link Frustrating to hear that my water test kit is still lacking in a number of ways but good to know, thanks! Do you mean to say that my test could be detecting ammonium and not ammonia? Considering both are toxic wouldn't the goal still be to have 0 of both or is it that you need to do something different to address one or the other? Should I test my tap water for everything or just ammonia?
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Apr 17, 2020 19:20
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Ok Comboomer posted:Is it weird that I wanna put glofish in something like that? Not really. :-) I put neon tetra in it because I think the bright colors fit in really well. I'm not opposed to glowfish but I don't like that you can't breed them and sell them.
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Apr 17, 2020 19:59
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