Midjack posted:

Isn’t that the best feeling?

Vorenus posted:

I'm so glad this thread exists. I somehow stumbled across Luke Towan on Youtube and was utterly awed at the level of effort, detail, and precision he puts into his dioramas. It looks like a lot of fun, but for various reasons I don't think it would be feasible, so I decided to try out modeling.

SkunkDuster posted:

If you like watching videos of people obsessing over insane detail, you should check out Scale Model Workshop (Paul Budzik). He is a retired dentist and he goes to great levels of effort for the sake of accuracy. One example I can think of is where he removes the molded framework from airplane canopies and just paints them on (after creating masks from scratch), then goes on to mathematically show how the thickness of the paint layers is more true to scale than the raised plastic on the supplied canopies. I enjoy watching his videos, but I don't know if I would enjoy modeling as much (or ever finish a model) if I went to the extremes he does.

OTOH, watching his videos persuaded me to buy a lathe, then later a mill, so I'm happy about that. I use the lathe to paint stripes on bombs.

Vorenus posted:

I had the patience for the 7700 piece LEGO SSD, so I'm hoping that will translate somewhat well to this.



Looking at some of the videos on YT and the pictures in the thread I'm looking forward to trying the model and seeing where I get with that and other over the next months.

Vorenus posted:

I'm so glad this thread exists. I somehow stumbled across Luke Towan on Youtube and was utterly awed at the level of effort, detail, and precision he puts into his dioramas. It looks like a lot of fun, but for various reasons I don't think it would be feasible, so I decided to try out modeling. I remember building a little RAH-66 Comanche with my dad when I was very young, and figured I would try it out as an adult.

I have a Timaya 1/35 Walker Bulldog on the way with all the tools/enamel paint/ etc I need.

Bucnasti posted:

That Walker bulldog is a great starter kit, goes together easy, easy to paint, cheap enough that if you mess up you can just get another one, and it look exactly like what people think of when you say “tank”. The decals are a little spartan, but that’s because the real tanks had few markings.

Be careful with the running wheels, I accidentally put a pair of them together wrong and it took some finagling to get the rubber treads to go on straight.

SkunkDuster posted:

If you like watching videos of people obsessing over insane detail, you should check out Scale Model Workshop (Paul Budzik). He is a retired dentist and he goes to great levels of effort for the sake of accuracy. One example I can think of is where he removes the molded framework from airplane canopies and just paints them on (after creating masks from scratch), then goes on to mathematically show how the thickness of the paint layers is more true to scale than the raised plastic on the supplied canopies. I enjoy watching his videos, but I don't know if I would enjoy modeling as much (or ever finish a model) if I went to the extremes he does.

OTOH, watching his videos persuaded me to buy a lathe, then later a mill, so I'm happy about that. I use the lathe to paint stripes on bombs.

N17R4M posted:

While I realize you may hate money, please don't do that to more Lego.

E - after my blood pressure returned to normal I realized that isn't Lego. Well played.

Cthulu Carl posted:

I'm pretty sure this has been answered a few times, but I'll ask again - With an airbrush and spray booth, do you need to vet it outside? I'm starting to realize I need one, but don't really have anywhere to vent it out.

If I vent it just... away from where I'm working and stick to like Vallejo primer and Model/Game Air or Mecha, there shouldn't be any major concerns?

Symetrique posted:

Current popular glues are Tamiya Extra Thin and Mr Cement S.

These are solvents that melt the styrene together. The product you linked is a super glue. Super glue/CA glue, while still very useful in the hobby, is something best reserved for non-styrene parts.

As for the spray booth, it depends on what you're spraying. Acrylics are fine as long as you have a filter. The main concern here is the paint particles/dust. If you're spraying lacquers/enamels, you definitely want to vent it outside.

quote:

Sad news from New Zealand today indicates Wingnut Wings has been closed down permanently and its assets are to be sold off.

Details are yet to be publicly disclosed but it’s understood staff have been informed they no longer have jobs at Wingnuts, and all assets- the moulds etc- are to be disposed of.

Wingnuts, which was begun by Sir Peter Jackson in 2009, has like many NZ businesses been locked down recently due to the coronavirus shutdowns there.

The business issues affecting the decision to close the business permanently are not yet known but are not thought to be entirely due to the Covid 19 issue.

The Forum contacted Wingnuts’ General Manager, Richard Alexander yesterday and sought comment. He responded that an official statement would be forthcoming.

When we approached him today on this matter, the email diverted to a message referring all future Wingnut Wings matters to Clare Olssen and Kate Leppard.

Clare Olssen is Chief Executive Officer of WingNut Films and Kate Leppard is the company’s Chief Financial Officer.

We sought official comment from Clare Olssen and Kate Leppard. We asked about the status of the Wingnut Wings business, the employment status of staff and the situation re pending mail orders in their system.

There has been no response from the designated contacts for Wingnut Wings. Significantly Richard’s name now no longer appears on replies from his official email address.

We have been unable to contact Richard Alexander. His status with Wingnuts now is not known.

The Wingnuts website is still active and accepting online orders however due to the uncertainty about the company’s status now, it is suggested Forum members consider whether to place any further orders with their online store until the company officially clarifies the status of its current pending orders.

It’s understood there are also major job cuts at the Vintage Aviator (TVAL) too with all aircraft production stopped, most staff made redundant and the company retrenched to a maintenance team for the existing aircraft collection.

Sir Peter Jackson has made no comment on the closure decisions.

More details will be posted when they are known.

Der Shovel posted:

Help, I'm assembling a Takom AMX-13/75, and it's the first tank I've built that has individual link tracks that aren't workable tracks, ie. the links don't snap together but have to be glued.

This means that for the first time ever I'll have to paint and weather the tracks in place and I'm looking for tips on how to best do it.

Ensign Expendable posted:

Attach the running gear, but don't glue it. Lay out the tracks flat and glue with Tamiya Extra Thin or similar. Let dry a little bit and wrap around the running gear. When it dries fully, you should be able to remove the complete assembly and paint it whole.

Der Shovel posted:

Yeah, that would've been a great idea. Sadly until I started assembling the tracks themselves, I thought they'd be workable tracks (as they have been on all of my Takom kits so far) so I figured I'd glue the running gear, attach enough track together links to get them to right length to drape as I want to, and then move on.

So now I'm kinda screwed and have to paint the tracks on the model

beep-beep car is go posted:

Arquinsiel posted:

One time I was converting up the Orks from the 2nd edition 40k starter box and I dropped one that I had just finished and it vanished under the diningroom table somehow. A week or so later I found it.

Then a few months later I found it again. Identical conversion. When I went to put him in the box with the rest I counted and I was now up an Ork. An identically converted Ork

I mean, that’s a pretty Orky thing to happen if I understand my 40k.

beep-beep car is go posted:

Double post.

Charliegrs posted:

So really dumb question about airbrushing.

I live in an apartment and I don't have an airbrush yet but I really want one. Is it a terrible bad idea to use one indoors with no ventilation? From videos I see it looks like an airbrush doesn't make a lot of excess mist like a spray can does. I could do it on the porch, but that would really cumbersome and I live in an area that gets extremely hot like 100-110 during the summer so that probably isn't good for airbrushing. I can do it inside but theres no way to ventilate it here. It's probably a bad idea right?

Charliegrs posted:

So really dumb question about airbrushing.

I live in an apartment and I don't have an airbrush yet but I really want one. Is it a terrible bad idea to use one indoors with no ventilation? From videos I see it looks like an airbrush doesn't make a lot of excess mist like a spray can does. I could do it on the porch, but that would really cumbersome and I live in an area that gets extremely hot like 100-110 during the summer so that probably isn't good for airbrushing. I can do it inside but theres no way to ventilate it here. It's probably a bad idea right?

Arquinsiel posted:

Now is not a good time to experiment with your lungs TBH.

Bucnasti posted:

Depends on what type of paint you're using, if it's acrylics you can just get a a small desktop paintbooth and vent the air away from your space or out a window. If it's enamel or lacquer , then you'll need something more elaborate that probably won't fit in your apartment.

Charliegrs posted:

So really dumb question about airbrushing.

I live in an apartment and I don't have an airbrush yet but I really want one. Is it a terrible bad idea to use one indoors with no ventilation? From videos I see it looks like an airbrush doesn't make a lot of excess mist like a spray can does. I could do it on the porch, but that would really cumbersome and I live in an area that gets extremely hot like 100-110 during the summer so that probably isn't good for airbrushing. I can do it inside but theres no way to ventilate it here. It's probably a bad idea right?

SkunkDuster posted:

I'm no lungologist, but I can tell you that I spent a couple years airbrushing acrylics in my unventilated basement and never had a problem. If you are concerned about it, or if you plan to spray solvent based paints, this spray booth from amazon works pretty well. It can be vented out a window. There is also a lighted model that costs a little more, but the lights have a very blue tint to them which I don't like at all. Unless you have the means to swap out the LEDs for warm whites, I'd recommend getting the unlighted booth and some sort of clip on lamp. One caveat about that booth is that the plastic is not resistant to lacquers or lacquer thinner. I spill and splash and make quite the mess of my booth, so I got a thin sheet of HDPE (or maybe it was LDPE) and cut it to fit the bottom.

ShallNoiseUpon posted:

Apartment-liver here and I have the lighted spray booth and vent out the window and also wear a P95 respirator when I'm feeling responsible about my lungs. Unfortunately, you're probably not going to be able to get a respirator right now and I have definitely noticed some lung weirdness after priming without a mask and just the hood, but never anything after spraying just acrylics, but I'm not a lung expert I'm sure it's not good either way. So in a no-ventilation situation I'd absolutely be sure to wear a respirator.

If you were less lazy and more handy than me (I am very lazy and not very handy), building a booth that has better suction shouldn't be too hard and there's a ton of resources you can find for turning storage tubs or boxes into one, assuming you can get HVAC filters right now.

SkunkDuster posted:

Are you spraying from rattle cans? I tried that once or twice and that little booth doesn't move enough air to clear the fumes from a spray can, but I've never had any problems with lacquers or enamels with an airbrush (15-20psi). I did modify mine a bit by running a 4" dryer hose from the back of the booth directly up to a 4" dryer vent I have permanently mounted in a panel that sits in my window frame. I also removed the filter from the booth. Those changes might have helped improve airflow. It is also possible that I have gotten desensitized to the smell of lacquer fumes.

Furism posted:

I'm about to start a NH-90 NFH helicopter and I want to keep the doors open and work super hard on the interior's details. I was thinking to work on the interior first, assemble the fuselage, mask the windows and then spray paint. But how do I protect the interior from the spray? I reckon I should put the doors on a closed position but how do I get them to stay there while not actually glue them? Does anybody know a trick for that?

Furism posted:

I'm about to start a NH-90 NFH helicopter and I want to keep the doors open and work super hard on the interior's details. I was thinking to work on the interior first, assemble the fuselage, mask the windows and then spray paint. But how do I protect the interior from the spray? I reckon I should put the doors on a closed position but how do I get them to stay there while not actually glue them? Does anybody know a trick for that?

Slugworth posted:

Could you put a strip of masking tape, sticky side out, across the inside of the door frame? Then you could just push the door into place, and the tape would I imagine keep it put while you paint.

Molentik posted:

I tape the edges against bleeding and stuff the interior/whatever with paper towel or pieces of foam. If you put on light coats the material doesnt really soak up and leak the paint.

Furism posted:

Right, I think I'll try a mix of these. Wet some paper towel to fill the interior as much as I can and then masking tape - hopefully that'll hold the door correctly and I'll be able to stay patient enough to do it right. Now that I think of it, since the paper towel tends to harden when it dries, it might provide extra support for the doors.

Thanks!

SkunkDuster posted: