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Wacky Delly posted:If there's ethernet there, can't you just add another google wifi pod? I guess I could but aren't pucks something like $100? edit: just bought an OnHub router, should work for my purposes. E2M2 fucked around with this message at 07:53 on Apr 20, 2020 |
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Apr 20, 2020 04:59
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SlowBloke posted:Get plenum rated wire if you run your wires in walls Frank Dillinger posted:Plenum rated is for cables that run in ducts and ventilation spaces.  As for other "ventalation spaces" I haven't seen open plenum spaces in residential construction, but I'm wouldn't be surprised if there is some weirdo out there with an open air return in a drop ceiling in their house.
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Apr 20, 2020 09:14
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E2M2 posted:I guess I could but aren't pucks something like $100? OnHubs do not support Ethernet backhaul like the wireless pucks do. I _think_ you can put them in bridge mode, but I dunno how that will work with your other wifi setup. I reckon a Unifi AC Lite would probably be about the same price and serve the same purpose? I haven't checked prices on OnHubs in a long time though.
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Apr 20, 2020 13:27
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CopperHound posted:CMX, CM, CMR, and CMP are fine. CMP costs significantly more and there are very few instances where it would be required in residential construction. That said, CMP jacket material is slightly easier for me to strip than pvc jacket when terminating a rack full of patch panels. I’m just going to get some in wall rated solid core CAT6a and call it good. I won’t run into any of the issues where I have plenum space in my (pending inspection) new house.
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Apr 20, 2020 14:23
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E2M2 posted:I guess I could but aren't pucks something like $100? The Google Puck will give you the best experience. It means that you can roam in your backyard, etc. Stick with the garbage you have. Does this integrate with your current setup - not become its own unique setup?
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Apr 20, 2020 15:24
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H110Hawk posted:The Google Puck will give you the best experience. It means that you can roam in your backyard, etc. Stick with the garbage you have. Does this integrate with your current setup - not become its own unique setup? The Onhub routers can integrate directly with the google wifi pucks. Should be fine. They run the exact same software. https://support.google.com/wifi/answer/7168220?hl=en
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Apr 20, 2020 16:58
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chocolateTHUNDER posted:The Onhub routers can integrate directly with the google wifi pucks. Should be fine. They run the exact same software. Gotcha. Neat. I assumed Google had gone the Ubiquity / ADHD route.
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Apr 20, 2020 18:31
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Hello thread. I have some ISP / router / HOA fuckery that I can't get around, so I'm coming here for advice. Here's the short vesion: 1) I live in a condo building with fiber. There is an ISP-installed Ubiquity EdgeRouter X in our condo's "network closet" which distributes the internet pipes to us via wired connections throughout the unit. My desktop PC is hardwired to one outlet, and we have a wireless router (Asus RT-N56U) providing WiFi from another. Guess I could've gone with an access point instead of another router, but it's what I had at hand. 2) The connection is pretty much excellent (800 Mbps down / 500 up is typical) except for seemingly random times when it completely drops out across all outlets (WiFi router and my desktop alike). The only way to get the connection back is to turn the EdgeRouter off and back on. 3) When the drop happens, I would love to first log into the EdgeRouter and see what's going on, but that's where the HOA/ISP fuckery happens: the ISP doesn't know the login/password because the HOA had hired a different company to originally do the installation in the pre-fiber days, and the installer is... either out of business or unwilling to provide the login credentials because (ISP suspects) they used the same credentials for all 380 units in the building. I don't have any confidence that building management can untangle this. Or in other words, I own the equipment which I can't log into to troubleshoot.  I think my options are: A) Get the ISP to come out ($150 service visit + it's the goddamn pandemic) to install their own router (which they'll overcharge for) and troubleshoot (which they really can't unless they happen to be here as the connection drops out) B) Reset the EdgeRouter I have to factory conditions so that the default ubnt/ubnt credentials work. Except that wipes out whatever settings are on there now and disables my internet because it's not set up to route traffic out of the box. I'd have to run the wizard and hope for the best, again, during the goddamn pandemic when both my wife and I are working from home and depend on the internet working. C) Get a new router that I can stick into the "network closet" instead of the current EdgeRouter, and take the risk of figuring out the settings on the new unit instead. That way I can always bring back the EdgeRouter X with its mystery settings and it will work. Until it drops the connection again. Unfortunately, my Asus router is too big to fit into the "network box" so the new router would have to be something small. Have I missed anything? I'm leaning towards option C -- if that sounds reasonable, I'm all ears for any buying recommendations for compact, no-WiFi-needed router replacements. Hell, I'm happy with getting another EdgeRouter X if that's still my best option. Sorry for the ramble, it's a frustrating situation.
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Apr 20, 2020 23:11
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Trabant posted:Hello thread. I have some ISP / router / HOA fuckery that I can't get around, so I'm coming here for advice. Here's the short vesion: Who actually owns the ER-X? If it's you, I'd argue the installer is kind of up poo poo creek and if they used the same creds for everyone that's their problem, not yours. Additionally if they were configured sanely (lol), you shouldn't even be able to access configuration from the WAN side of things for any other unit's ER-Xs, so there's not too much damage you can do.
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Apr 20, 2020 23:21
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Trabant posted:Hello thread. I have some ISP / router / HOA fuckery that I can't get around, so I'm coming here for advice. Here's the short vesion: Buy an ER-X off Amazon. Fiddle with it until you have a working config. Save it to disk. Factory reset the one in the network closet, load config, return ER-X. Alternatively, realize the ER-X in the network closet is dead and use yours as a holdover. If that third party MSP who setup your network isn't out of business ask them for the details besides the password. "I accidentally broke the ER-X and need to replace it" sort of thing, emphasize you don't need the password and ask if they can set it to trabantlovestacos or something. I would get a neighbor to go to http://whatismyip.akamai.com/ and compare IPs, if it's the same one and you're behind some kind of NAT setup you might need to do some clever tricks. If they're different, it might clue you in to the config on the router. For the same IP, how handy and hacky are you at networks? If you have a linux host with a hardwired nic and some scripting chops you can run through a LOT of commonly used configs quickly by plugging the WAN into the linux box. You might be sunk if they setup any kind of network auth though. Try cloning the MAC of your ER-X's WAN port. Comedy option: Got a linux machine with TWO ethernet ports? Put it inline between your ER-X WAN and the wall. Setup transparent bridging between the two and watch the magic happen with wireshark. You should know immediately if there is real authentication going on there.
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Apr 20, 2020 23:33
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Buff Hardback posted:Who actually owns the ER-X? If it's you, I'd argue the installer is kind of up poo poo creek and if they used the same creds for everyone that's their problem, not yours. You're correct on both points, but I think I'm SOL in general on trying to reach people. The original installer has dropped off the face of the planet (their site domain is no longer valid) so I can't find them and I absolutely question their ability to configure things sanely or securely. My building's management is... not that competent either. H110Hawk posted:For the same IP, how handy and hacky are you at networks? Oof, not that handy. I'm a better-than-average home user but nowhere near good enough to do what you described. The rest of it makes sense though and I can absorb a $60 hit, so I'll get on it. Being in this situation in the first place -- and having to guess the settings when I really shouldn't have to, at the worst time -- is the truly annoying part.
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Apr 20, 2020 23:51
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Surely they can tell you what the IP address of your connection is meant to be, and whether it's DHCP assigned, a static address, PPPoE, a routed subnet with a point-to-point link in private space etc? It's apparently also possible to do a soft reset where the previous config is saved ready for you to copy out https://community.ui.com/questions/New-runtime-reset-to-factory-defaults-feature-in-v1-1/ddc933fa-bbab-4458-badf-8dcd1a15fd97 https://community.ui.com/questions/Lost-password/4e18b7f6-6cba-4f6e-b03d-5d82df277582
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Apr 21, 2020 00:02
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Thanks Ants posted:Surely they can tell you what the IP address of your connection is meant to be, and whether it's DHCP assigned, a static address, PPPoE, a routed subnet with a point-to-point link in private space etc?  that is astronomically stupid for a commercial router. I mean, great for you but holy cow. Assuming it works as advertised. I would test it out on v1 and v2 firmware on your new one you are buying before hoping it works on your current one.
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Apr 21, 2020 00:51
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H110Hawk posted:
I mean physical access is physical access
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Apr 21, 2020 02:12
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Why do you say it's stupid? You can do a password reset on a Cisco without losing the whole config if you have physical access. If you're able to get close enough to the hardware to rub your greasy fingers on it then all bets are off.
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Apr 21, 2020 02:12
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SamDabbers posted:Why do you say it's stupid? You can do a password reset on a Cisco without losing the whole config if you have physical access. Yeah, I never really got the hate for the old Chrome password policy (as in sitting at the computer didn't require any sort of authentication to view saved passwords), because the computer touching policy always made sense to me. If I can touch the thing and want to attack it, I can just smash it to bits if I want to attack it destructively.
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Apr 21, 2020 02:22
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I'm sure this gets asked constantly but seeing as the first post is years old now, what's a decent wireless router these days? I don't need stupid insane speeds or wifi 6 since just my phone and macbook air are going to go on it. The only real requirement is that it has gigabit ethernet ports on it as I will be connecting my desktop directly.
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Apr 21, 2020 02:47
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SamDabbers posted:Why do you say it's stupid? You can do a password reset on a Cisco without losing the whole config if you have physical access. You shouldn't give a non-tamper evident method of password resets, it should nuke the secrets from the config. That's all I want.
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Apr 21, 2020 03:09
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H110Hawk posted:You shouldn't give a non-tamper evident method of password resets, it should nuke the secrets from the config. That's all I want. If dumb/malicious janitor can get his grubby hands on the Cisco core switch, he can't take down your entire network by resetting the password.
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Apr 21, 2020 03:45
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Thanks Ants posted:Surely they can tell you what the IP address of your connection is meant to be, and whether it's DHCP assigned, a static address, PPPoE, a routed subnet with a point-to-point link in private space etc? If you mean getting the right settings from the ISP, then I would think so. I just don't have high hopes they'll be too cooperative, simply because ISPs seem to make their money off service calls. And thanks for those links -- I'll definitely be testing that with the new router before I attempt it with the current one.
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Apr 21, 2020 04:00
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KKKLIP ART posted:I’m just going to get some in wall rated solid core CAT6a and call it good. I won’t run into any of the issues where I have plenum space in my (pending inspection) new house. We close on a house on Wednesday and we only now just realized that none of the bedrooms have coaxial wall plates. I was really hoping I wouldn't have to install them myself.  Thankfully, it's a ranch style home, so it shouldn't be too difficult to do, but I was really hoping I could just snake some Cat6 line where the coaxial was being run. What are the chances I can convince the Xfinity installers coming on Thursday to run some lines to a bedroom or two? Zero?
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Apr 21, 2020 04:58
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Gay Retard posted:We close on a house on Wednesday and we only now just realized that none of the bedrooms have coaxial wall plates. I was really hoping I wouldn't have to install them myself. They won't snake or fish at all. Your best bet might be seeing if they know anyone they'd recommend.
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Apr 21, 2020 05:32
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Gay Retard posted:I was really hoping I could just snake some Cat6 line where the coaxial was being run. Gay Retard posted:Thankfully, it's a ranch style home, so it shouldn't be too difficult to do
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Apr 21, 2020 07:18
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So last week I bought and setup a Ubiquiti Amplifi instant router kit and got it to more or less how I want it (Wifi router in bridge mode, mesh point with ethernet backhaul, whole house has good signal), the one minor thing I'm interested in is does the unit retain/replicate DNS records at all? I use a PiHole to serve DHCP and DNS which the unit works with fine, in the Amplifi app you can view all connected devices on the whole network but it doesn't resolve their hostnames, instead it uses their funky algorithm to figure out the device. It's not really a big deal if it can't, I can't use it as the primary router since our ISP Router/Modem is fairly locked down with its settings and I've not looked into how Amplifi handles DHCP.
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Apr 21, 2020 14:41
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As far as I know, Amplifi doesn't have an internal DNS server/service. If your PiHole is acting as internal DNS, then I think you should just be able to point Amplifi at it for DNS and you should be good to go. Haven't worked with Amplifi gear specifically, though.
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Apr 21, 2020 15:20
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Super Slash posted:So last week I bought and setup a Ubiquiti Amplifi instant router kit and got it to more or less how I want it (Wifi router in bridge mode, mesh point with ethernet backhaul, whole house has good signal), the one minor thing I'm interested in is does the unit retain/replicate DNS records at all? Isn't this similar to how PiHole will try and resolve hostnames? It's been a while since I've messed with it but this sounds exactly like the issues I had before I let PiHole handle DHCP.
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Apr 21, 2020 19:58
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Speaking of PiHole I decided to play around with the docker container for it again. Everything seems good, but Ubuntu does want that 53 port in a bad way and I'm a bit skiddish about monkeying with the DNS on the server as it's the only one I have and I'd prefer not to goober up my Plex/NAS/Docker/everything else sever for this. Would it be saner to look into something like Traefik up? My understanding it a side benefit would be getting some local network website sort of deal set up so I wouldn't have to remember a half dozen IPs off the top of my head.
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Apr 21, 2020 22:25
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Anyone have experience running armored fiber through walls? (Mostly down walls between floors). I want to use it as some 10GbE backbone as my cable comes into my garage / water heater closet, and I figure I'll just put the modem there and try to "home-run" stuff there. Initially, I thought about putting the home-run upstairs in my office, but since most of the existing coax already goes to the garage, I figured that would be best. Looking at getting a refurb / used N1524P or something like that and keeping it downstairs with the EdgeRouter 4, and then doing 10GbE fiber runs up to the office where more of my machines are (big ESXi host / NAS) and the living room (mostly for shits and giggles, but to support TV/console/ATV/whatever, and since its right above the garage). Will do 1GbE copper runs everywhere else for Wi-Fi and things like that. Not looking to run fiber "everywhere", just where its needed to hit branch switches. It looks like LC wall plates are a thing, so my ideal scenario is hitting the wall plates + leaving a fishing line / "spare" to pull things in the future if needed because I don't think conduit is happening without wall destruction and patching. I guess it's more of a home improvement thread but curious to where I should go to learn more about how townhomes were built in the mid 80s to get an idea of what to expect behind my walls / between floors, before starting to do exploratory surgery / pulling up carpets.
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Apr 21, 2020 23:32
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movax posted:Anyone have experience running armored fiber through walls? (Mostly down walls between floors). I want to use it as some 10GbE backbone as my cable comes into my garage / water heater closet, and I figure I'll just put the modem there and try to "home-run" stuff there. Initially, I thought about putting the home-run upstairs in my office, but since most of the existing coax already goes to the garage, I figured that would be best. Looking at getting a refurb / used N1524P or something like that and keeping it downstairs with the EdgeRouter 4, and then doing 10GbE fiber runs up to the office where more of my machines are (big ESXi host / NAS) and the living room (mostly for shits and giggles, but to support TV/console/ATV/whatever, and since its right above the garage). Will do 1GbE copper runs everywhere else for Wi-Fi and things like that. Not looking to run fiber "everywhere", just where its needed to hit branch switches. I did it for a while in one of my previous job, the issue is not pulling the fiber(it's just like pulling copper but with added care about not making weird angles and not going hulk with pull torque) but doing the connections, you could try going old school with manual lapping and glueing(it's a bitch) or you could hire a specialist with a splicing unit to do the work(it's money well spent). Most wall plates are mechanical adapter(f/f) so you will need to terminate the fiber in the box and then click it in the wall plate. Remember to check the fiber type when you buy optics, if the fiber is multi or signle mode you will need to buy the sfp+ accordingly. Also if you just need a dumb 10g link mikrotik crs are dirt cheap and easy to get.
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Apr 22, 2020 08:11
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movax posted:Anyone have experience running armored fiber through walls?  IMO, use unarmored distribution cable and be mindful about supporting it in a way to prevent mechanical damage.
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Apr 22, 2020 20:16
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Warbird posted:Speaking of PiHole I decided to play around with the docker container for it again. Everything seems good, but Ubuntu does want that 53 port in a bad way and I'm a bit skiddish about monkeying with the DNS on the server as it's the only one I have and I'd prefer not to goober up my Plex/NAS/Docker/everything else sever for this. Would it be saner to look into something like Traefik up? My understanding it a side benefit would be getting some local network website sort of deal set up so I wouldn't have to remember a half dozen IPs off the top of my head. Just use macvlan on the container to assign it an IP on your local network You can do this for any Docker container if you want to give it a real, static IP and don't want to dick around with deconflicting ports Tiny Timbs fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Apr 22, 2020 |
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Apr 22, 2020 21:15
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I was thinking something like this: https://www.fs.com/products/17770.html And then use a LC keystone coupler because holy poo poo I do not want to deal with any kind of fiber polishing / terminating / etc. In terms of pulling the cable, I'll just have to deal with holes / making stuff big enough to get the fiber through with its connectors; the Cat5/Cat6 of course I'd pull bare. I've recently discovered the existence of trunk cables, which seem like they'd make pulling wire even easier when you want to get 4-8 drops somewhere. Or, am I misunderstanding the purpose of them?
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Apr 23, 2020 00:17
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movax posted:I was thinking something like this: https://www.fs.com/products/17770.html Keep in mind that pulling preterminated cables require a lot more care as destroying the lc termination is easy. movax posted:In terms of pulling the cable, I'll just have to deal with holes / making stuff big enough to get the fiber through with its connectors; the Cat5/Cat6 of course I'd pull bare. I've recently discovered the existence of trunk cables, which seem like they'd make pulling wire even easier when you want to get 4-8 drops somewhere. Or, am I misunderstanding the purpose of them? A preterminated cable usually has a single set of fibers (duplex or simplex), trunk cable contains multiple set of fibers so the thickness/weight is reduced and it's simpler to pull. SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 10:45 on Apr 23, 2020 |
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Apr 23, 2020 10:26
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My wife has signed up all over the internet to review things. Mostly, it's makeup or cookware or the like. Recently, however, she was offered the chance to review a TP-Link Deco W3600 Mesh Router 2 Pack, and it showed up today. We currently have a TP-Link Archer A9 router. I've never dealth with a mesh router before, just with using older routers as extenders/repeaters, so I want to ask: Do I have to set the Mesh up as a new router, or can I connected it to the Archer and use it as an extender/repeater? I suspect it's the former, but I want to ask and make sure before I just bumble my way into screwing something up.
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Apr 23, 2020 21:03
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Kheldarn posted:My wife has signed up all over the internet to review things. Mostly, it's makeup or cookware or the like. Recently, however, she was offered the chance to review a TP-Link Deco W3600 Mesh Router 2 Pack, and it showed up today. Most mesh kits expect you to replace anything but the isp modem, running along your current archer is possible but not the best pick if you want to review what the kit can do, without adding additional causes of problems or bad performance.
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Apr 23, 2020 22:35
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SlowBloke posted:Most mesh kits expect you to replace anything but the isp modem, running along your current archer is possible but not the best pick if you want to review what the kit can do, without adding additional causes of problems or bad performance. Oh, yeah, I didn't even think about that part. Was just excited to get to try a mesh router. Thanks for the reminder. Edit: Of course, thinking about it, I would like to include data on running them together in the review, too, for those who are interested in that. But I can do that after I run it seperatly. Kheldarn fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Apr 23, 2020 |
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Apr 23, 2020 22:42
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Have fun reconnecting all your devices to WiFi. Ended up getting a Deco but it's far lacking in terms of advanced configuration options. The signal has been pretty strong and stable though.
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Apr 23, 2020 23:10
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How good is the Unifi controller for something like a UDM Pro? I was forced to get one of Xfinity's Gigabit modem/router combos, which I'm going to eventually put into bypass mode, but I'm actually impressed with how well it works - every time a new device gets added to the network, it sends a notification to my phone to name the device and associate it with a new user (or create a new user). After that, I can manage that user's devices on the network and see their per-user and per-device statistics. Will a UDM Pro do this?
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Apr 24, 2020 01:05
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Acer Pilot posted:Have fun reconnecting all your devices to WiFi. Yeah, so far, my biggest issue is that I see no way to choose between 2.4 and 5gHz connections. It looks like I'll have to disable 2.4, connect everything that can use 5, then re-enable 2.4. That's not optimal.
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Apr 24, 2020 01:35
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movax posted:I was thinking something like this: https://www.fs.com/products/17770.html -That cable has a minimum bend radius of 90mm, so you would need to use a faceplate that is angled to keep the back of the connector from jamming into the wall on the back side. This also means you can't just jam a bunch of spare length in the wall, you would probably have to neatly coil it in attic or crawlspace. -With preterminated cable you need to get the idea of "pulling" out of your head. Think more "placing" and any string you tie to the end is just to help guide it. Bulk cable usually has a spec for max pulling force. With terminated cables you can't know the aramid yarn is anchored in the connector, so there is a good chance the fiber strand is taking most of the pulling force. There are some preterminated cables that come with a pulling sock and cable gland you can pull, but I mostly see those in high strand count MPO cable. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 08:15 on Apr 24, 2020 |
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Apr 24, 2020 02:57
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