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Cthulu Carl posted:Anyone got tips on track tensioning?
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Apr 21, 2020 11:19
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Cthulu Carl posted:Anyone got tips on track tensioning? If by slack you mean there is too much sag, you can cut a link or two off and then reglue.
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Apr 21, 2020 15:36
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Blu-tack and foam work equally well to mask the interstices of your model. If you're spraying a really heavy coat of some extremely thin paint, you might have some problems, but as long as you're doing the standard light misting either solution is a good one. Wear at least a dust mask even if you're spraying acrylics and you have ventilation. Acrylic shouldn't hurt you much, but the less fine particulates you cram into your lungs the better. Don't spray enamels without a real respirator that snugly fits your face and proper ventilation to an outside source. More, thinner and lighter coats. Don't get greedy. Keep your stick on the ice. Wear sunscreen.
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Apr 21, 2020 16:19
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Most of the M41 assembly is done, and I've just finished putting a third brush coat of enamel on. Not really liking the flat green, or enamels in general, so I have some Tamiya acrylics and thinner on the way. The black on the wheels is entirely unthinned and actually looks the best of all the paint work IMO. I'm thinking I want a camo pattern of dark green/ black/ tan but would love suggestions on what specific colors would look good for a three-part camo.  I'm not sure why all the speckling is there. I washed the model in warm, soapy water with a bit of vinegar right out of the box, but I did let it sit a day or two before I started painting. Maybe I should scrub it with a toothbrush while washing instead of rubbing with my fingers next time. Overall it looks like crap by comparison to most, but I'm happy with it so far. And also because this will probably cause a meltdown in the LEGO thread:  That's a starting coat of dark grey Rustoleum paint+primer, after a few days I'm going to add some accenting and see how it ends up. Anyone use mineral spirits for enamel thinning? From what I've read it should work fine (assuming good ventilation) but I tried it last night with some Testor's black at a 3:1 paint:spirits ratio and I barely got to dip my brush three times before the pool of paint was dried.
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Apr 21, 2020 16:24
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Vorenus posted:
Star Destroyer looks really nice, and I'd like to see more of it. The mix of LEGO and MegaBloks is very jarring though.
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Apr 21, 2020 16:59
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MarxCarl posted:Star Destroyer looks really nice, and I'd like to see more of it. The mix of LEGO and MegaBloks is very jarring though. It's not a mix. The entire set is Lepin What exactly looks jarring?
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Apr 21, 2020 17:08
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Vorenus posted:It's not a mix. The entire set is Lepin What exactly looks jarring? The ejector pin marks on the plate studs just jump out at me, and scream MegaBloks. Im not that familiar with Lepin and don't have many, so Mega was my go to. Looks really nice though.
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Apr 21, 2020 17:28
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Vorenus posted:Most of the M41 assembly is done, and I've just finished putting a third brush coat of enamel on. Not really liking the flat green, or enamels in general, so I have some Tamiya acrylics and thinner on the way. The black on the wheels is entirely unthinned and actually looks the best of all the paint work IMO. I'm thinking I want a camo pattern of dark green/ black/ tan but would love suggestions on what specific colors would look good for a three-part camo. If you're looking for something historically accurate, as far as I can tell American and Japanese Bulldogs were always solid olive green. As I recall the kit also came with Taiwan decals, and they painted theirs in a green brown and black pattern that would be easy to replicate. If you don't need to be historically accurate than you can go crazy. Green and purple digital camo! Bucnasti fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Apr 22, 2020 |
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Apr 22, 2020 01:26
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1/144 A6M2b w/ Brengun's photetch set: 
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Apr 22, 2020 05:34
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A little update on my 300SL project. This is take two on the body colour after crazing the plastic on my first attempt as zero paints colours are hot and will eat both the primer and the plastic if you paint too quickly. The colour is Rob Walker racing dark blue as it's the closest I could find to the colour of the car in the third image.  
Dr. Garbanzo fucked around with this message at 06:59 on Apr 22, 2020 |
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Apr 22, 2020 06:57
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I've heard the term crazing a bunch of times but I'm not sure what it means. Does it mean the paint basically melts the plastic?
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Apr 22, 2020 15:21
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my understanding is that it’s fogging effect that CA has on clear plastic
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Apr 22, 2020 15:22
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Raskolnikov38 posted:my understanding is that it’s fogging effect that CA has on clear plastic Not just clear plastic l, but in humid environments, super glue will leave a crystal like white residue around everything as it dries
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Apr 22, 2020 15:33
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Charliegrs posted:I've heard the term crazing a bunch of times but I'm not sure what it means. Does it mean the paint basically melts the plastic? You know how sometimes the finish on pottery or the surface of oil painting sometimes gets a spiderweb of cracks without the actual material underneath changing?
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Apr 22, 2020 17:53
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That's not really it though. The fumes of superglue are corrosive enough that they will change the surface of clear parts, roughening them up and giving them a foggy, gritty texture.
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Apr 22, 2020 21:09
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In the case of zero paints it gets the texture of a pine cone that vaguely able to be felt but very much able to be seen. Any clear coat put on top also shows the texture and sanding the base color back shows the bare plastic underneath. I’ve had it happen a couple of times and the only way to fix it is strip it back to bare plastic and start again. It sucks but it’s worth it in the end for a good finish.
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Apr 22, 2020 22:12
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So besides plastic cement what's a good glue that doesn't give that white residue? PVA glue?
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Apr 22, 2020 23:28
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You can get super glues that won't fog but for car windows I tend to use PVA. Its not the tightest bond and it's a little slow but I'd prefer not to have windows with marks in them
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Apr 22, 2020 23:33
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  These two are amazing. The first is a acrylic paste that can be applied by brush and cleaned with water. Sets slower than CA but much easier to work cleanly with. The second is pretty much Tamiya Thin+. I find it has a better bond and it doesnt craze clear parts. It does evaporate faster so in tgat regard its a little more difficult to work with.
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Apr 22, 2020 23:55
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I use G-S Hypo Cement. Dries clear, won't craze, and has a needle tip that's perfect for glue small clear parts.
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Apr 22, 2020 23:59
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i just wait a few seconds before applying the CA with the needle head i cut in half to make an applicator with
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Apr 23, 2020 00:02
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Crazing is not referring to the fogging from fumes of superglue- that's (usually*) just buildup of vaporized cyanoacrylate fumes on surfaces around where superglue has been deposited. Crazing is the formation of micro-cracks along the lines of polymer chains of the plastic. Certain strong solvents can increase the mobility of these chains and cause the internal stresses caused during the injection molding process to exceed the energy of formation for these cracks, causing them to appear in the part. It's very noticeable in clear plastics because the cracks are large enough to scatter light. You can also see it in the whitening of opaque polystyrene in the same way as you see it when you bend the part very far. *Certain superglue compositions may include crazing solvents so both processes take place but I haven't seen it in the generic ones I have used Edit: A very good example of solvent crazing is to see what happens when you expose Bandai plastic (from gunpla, etc.) to mineral spirits. The plastic will become very brittle. People also use the term to describe the crazing of the paint layer - it basically becomes a network of surface cracks that results in a broken, uneven texture. Triggerhappypilot fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Apr 24, 2020 |
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Apr 24, 2020 07:31
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Triggerhappypilot posted:Crazing is not referring to the fogging from fumes of superglue Yes, it is.
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Apr 24, 2020 08:21
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Yes, it is. Crazing and fogging are two separate processes. The fogging can be easily cleaned off of clear parts by sanding and polishing. Crazed clear plastic can't be repaired nearly as easily since the cracking is internal.
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Apr 24, 2020 08:34
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No.  But seriously, what you're saying about crazing is true outside the world of modeling, but within modeling it does mean the marring of the surface finish, typically from fogged up rough surfaces through superglue or styrene glues. Bloody Hedgehog fucked around with this message at 08:44 on Apr 24, 2020 |
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Apr 24, 2020 08:41
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For what it's worth, the A&P certified mechanic in me who used to deal with crazing on real aircraft canopies all the time 100% agrees with TriggerHappyPilot. To me, crazing and fogging are two separate things altogether, regardless the scale of the airplanes.
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Apr 24, 2020 11:52
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Yeah, same to me as a modeller. You can fix fogging, sometimes. Crazing means the part is hosed.
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Apr 24, 2020 17:11
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After finally obtaining a County class cruiser kit, and giving up on ever getting the other class of ship my grandfather served on, I decided to go with a little Washington treaty-era set, only to discover that the only Nelson class kits - Rodney and Nelson by Trumpeter - are impossible to find, the only destroyer class that even has a kit at all is the much later Tribal, and likewise the only carrier is Ark Royal. I am disappointed at the lack of RN representation in 1/350 model kits.
NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Apr 25, 2020 |
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Apr 25, 2020 14:48
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It might be a soda vs. pop thing, but I'd also go with crazing as a hosed up paint layer due to a reaction between different layers of paint.
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Apr 26, 2020 06:58
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NTRabbit posted:After finally obtaining a County class cruiser kit, and giving up on ever getting the other class of ship my grandfather served on, I decided to go with a little Washington treaty-era set, only to discover that the only Nelson class kits - Rodney and Nelson by Trumpeter - are impossible to find, the only destroyer class that even has a kit at all is the much later Tribal, and likewise the only carrier is Ark Royal. I am disappointed at the lack of RN representation in 1/350 model kits. When I was a kid - about 7ish, so late 70s - I was given a Nelson-class kit to make. Mum went out to buy paint for it and, not having been given specific instructions as to which colours were required, returned with bright green and a brilliant, metallic gold. Having brutalised the build phase about as much as you'd expect a seven-year old to, I duly painted it and dazzle cam didn't begin to describe the effects. Given even a reasonably sunny day, any lurking U-Boat commander would have recoiled, clutching at his eye and yelping in his barbarous, Teuton tongue as he bemoaned his scorched retinas. Edit: this is a woman who, having been born in the Greenock of the 40s, literally grew up within sight of the warships that her father helped build.
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Apr 26, 2020 12:10
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Endie posted:When I was a kid - about 7ish, so late 70s - I was given a Nelson-class kit to make. Mum went out to buy paint for it and, not having been given specific instructions as to which colours were required, returned with bright green and a brilliant, metallic gold. Having brutalised the build phase about as much as you'd expect a seven-year old to, I duly painted it and dazzle cam didn't begin to describe the effects. Given even a reasonably sunny day, any lurking U-Boat commander would have recoiled, clutching at his eye and yelping in his barbarous, Teuton tongue as he bemoaned his scorched retinas.
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Apr 26, 2020 12:16
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Around 1983 or so, I asked for Star Wars characters for Christmas. She got me Yoda, a power droid, a scout trooper and speederbike, Bespin Leia, and a Hoth Stormtrooper. It was uncanny how she managed to pick out a group of characters that never had any interaction in any of the movies.
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Apr 27, 2020 04:02
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I've been at work on the Bluenose and have started the rigging. I began with some of the line that Model Shipways provided with the kit, but I've since upgraded to some of the cordage from Syren and the difference is like night and day. Syren's offering handles far better, behaves like actual rope and frays far less. What came with the kit:  Syren's cordage:  Just lovely stuff. As of right now, the booms are all installed but I might (read: definitely) go back in and re-line the first two with Syren cordage because it is so much nicer. One thing I have been doing to decrease my frustration when passing lines through blocks is to dip the very tip of the running end of a line into some superglue to further ensure against fraying. It works extremely well so far and is invisible on the model once installed too.
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Apr 27, 2020 08:47
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Slugworth posted:And yet, despite her hands on experience with ships, her ungrateful son refused to believe her that they were painted green and gold. SMDH. How sharper than a serpent's tooth it is to have a thankless child.
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Apr 27, 2020 09:11
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(Mostly) Finished painting the M41. I'm trying to sort out all the info available online, and it looks like the next steps are a gently airbrushed coat of Pledge Floor Care to seal it followed by any washes or weathering I decide to apply.   I need to finish the figures and touch up a few areas. It's not nearly perfect but it was fun. The spare track section isn't on because I was spraying black, thoroughly cleaned the airbrush, and upon returning to my working area the very first thing I see is the part that I needed to paint black. 
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Apr 27, 2020 18:09
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How'd you get such nice soft edges on that camo?
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Apr 27, 2020 18:11
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The roni has my brain, and is making me purchase huge silly expensive things. Although, it's actually kind of a deal. Got it for $500. I was thinking of getting the Revell 1/72 Type VII/C U-Boat, as well as a poo poo-ton of aftermarket CMK kits, to do a cutaway view model. Except the Revell kit is already approaching $200, and the CMK kits are about $70 per compartment, plus the extra figs and addons, etc etc. Then I see the Trumpter 1/48 kit. A little research shows that it's basically the Revell kit and all the CMK kits, plus 40+figs, all sized up to 1/48 scale and packaged together. Right there I'm getting a bigger kit with all the addons, for less money. In truth, I'm actually going to buy a few addons PE kits from RCSubz, so that'll make this more expensive overall, but not by much.
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Apr 27, 2020 21:18
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:The roni has my brain, and is making me purchase huge silly expensive things. YOLO, man.  Enjoy the build and be sure to post pics. I just dropped a similar amount on a stencil cutter so I can start creating my own paint masks instead of having to buy them or use decals. So, I say, have fun, enjoy the hobby and be sure to share your progress!
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Apr 27, 2020 21:32
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Yeah. I just dropped $150 CAD on string so I am not about to criticize someone else's hobby purchase. Best of luck on that build, and post pics!
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Apr 27, 2020 21:36
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I'd love to build that! Are you going for an aftermarket deck?
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Apr 27, 2020 21:46
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