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Funzo posted:I wonder what makes these different then the GW contrast paints. There are a lot of ways they can still stand out; having different colors, better pricing, and extremely easily having better pots. 
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Apr 23, 2020 18:53
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I said come in! posted:There are a lot of ways they can still stand out; having different colors, better pricing, and extremely easily having better pots. Looks like a very similar method to use and basecoating before applying. They showcase colors in the videos, some look... not great. Some look amazing though. I'd def want to see what is the good poo poo before ordering.
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Apr 23, 2020 19:09
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Just the thing for painting up your backlog of Nazi busts.
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Apr 23, 2020 19:40
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grassy gnoll posted:Just the thing for painting up your backlog of Nazi busts. Should I be afraid to ask for further details about this? 
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Apr 23, 2020 19:41
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Lol was that them? There was a KS project that was supposed to be celebrating flying aces of WW2. Except whoops we forgot that flying aces existed outside of the Luftwaffe so have a bunch of lovingly rendered nazis instead.
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Apr 23, 2020 19:45
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That was Scale75. They make some great paints, and that's a real drat shame.
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Apr 23, 2020 19:48
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It was literally titled Heroes of the Reich.
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Apr 23, 2020 19:54
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I like Scale 75 paint, but I honestly don't see the need to order entire sets of contrast-style paints. Maybe one or two for a project here and there, but it's not the way I paint for the most part.
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Apr 23, 2020 20:04
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Cat Face Joe posted:It was literally titled Heroes of the Reich. Oh poo poo, I got them mixed up with another company. Yikes.
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Apr 23, 2020 20:34
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Oh poo poo, I got them mixed up with another company. Yikes. Actually looks like I made that up but Eagles of the Luftwaffe ain't great either. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/scale75/the-eagles-of-the-wwii-luftwaffe
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Apr 23, 2020 20:56
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Cat Face Joe posted:It was literally titled Heroes of the Reich. Hahah massive yikes.
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Apr 23, 2020 21:27
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I use Scale 75 paints near exclusively now- I wouldn’t bother with their contrast stuff, their scale line and fantasy and game lines (the core sets) are superb. They’re launching all these other ones at their own detriment imo. The artist acrylics were a bizarre choice and haven’t been received all that well, now a contrast paint competitor. Odd. Just stick to their core lines, they’re outstanding.
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Apr 23, 2020 22:14
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Yeast posted:I use Scale 75 paints near exclusively now- I wouldn’t bother with their contrast stuff, their scale line and fantasy and game lines (the core sets) are superb. Contrast made GW a lottttttttttt of money, though Stop thinking realistically and start thinking like a business man
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Apr 23, 2020 22:21
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Watching some painting tutorials while working today, and while I enjoy seeing the techniques, even if most of them are beyond my skill level, what I really wish more people would show is how they thin their paints down. It's great to say you're thinning down your paint until it's almost a glaze, but please show me what that looks like on your palette. That's actually what I like about the official GW videos. They show them putting paint down and thinning it so you get an idea of what they're doing.
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Apr 23, 2020 22:26
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Yeast posted:I use Scale 75 paints near exclusively now- I wouldn’t bother with their contrast stuff, their scale line and fantasy and game lines (the core sets) are superb. Where do I pickup their stuff? Or do you need to direct order? If I wanted to spend a couple hundred on a set what should I go after? I have the leather one.
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Apr 24, 2020 00:06
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Where do I pickup their stuff? Or do you need to direct order? If I wanted to spend a couple hundred on a set what should I go after? I have the leather one. Can't help you with where to order it, but their skin color set is some of the best paint I've ever used.
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Apr 24, 2020 00:19
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Where do I pickup their stuff? Or do you need to direct order? If I wanted to spend a couple hundred on a set what should I go after? I have the leather one. I'm in Australia, so my advice is probably not that helpful - but I can talk to their paints. The two ranges to focus on are simply called 'Scale 75' and 'Fantasy and Games' (there is also warfront for modellers, but its all WW2 exact tone matches to uniforms etc). The scale 75 range is super matte and has a thickness similar to P3 / Citadel Base paints. The Fantasy Range is closer to Vallejo. The Scale 75 range is what they got famous for, in terms of coverage, blending, glazing and the matte finish, and the fantasy range is slightly more satin - and more bombastic colours as the name implies. I'm assuming you're in the US, if so - you can buy from their online store, Noble Knight, or Miniature market at a minimum. If you wanted to get a set, the full scale 75 range is hard to look past: https://scale75usa.com/collections/scale-collection/products/scale-color-collection Or, if you want to stick to the smaller sets (understandable) - choose a colour palette like velvet skin or unnatural flesh and build up from there. One thing to note, the 'full set' doesn't include their metallics/inks/fluro tones. Word to the wise - for the Scale 75 paints, drop an agitator in the bottles. it's highly, highly recommended. Yeast fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Apr 24, 2020 |
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Apr 24, 2020 00:23
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Zuul the Cat posted:Got my first (and test) Wraith done. 
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Apr 24, 2020 00:56
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I finally did it! I knocked over an open pot of nuln oil. After like 15 years of painting I finally feel like part of the community
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Apr 24, 2020 11:16
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Funzo posted:Watching some painting tutorials while working today, and while I enjoy seeing the techniques, even if most of them are beyond my skill level, what I really wish more people would show is how they thin their paints down. It's great to say you're thinning down your paint until it's almost a glaze, but please show me what that looks like on your palette. That's actually what I like about the official GW videos. They show them putting paint down and thinning it so you get an idea of what they're doing. Same. I'm really struggling with a couple of my Vallejo paints. I shake them extremely well, but they're either thick and globby to work with, or just super runny like washes. I use a wet pallette, and generally work with a slightly moist brush, which seems to work for most of my paints, but a couple of them are stubborn and refuse to cooperate.
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Apr 24, 2020 11:23
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I did a shield:
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Apr 24, 2020 11:23
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BARONS CYBER SKULL posted:I did a shield: Nice! Are those gouges on the star painted or modelled, or both? I'm thinking of painting battle damage on some space marines and I'm struggling for the best look for purple armour.
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Apr 24, 2020 11:28
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Vlex posted:Nice! Are those gouges on the star painted or modelled, or both? I'm thinking of painting battle damage on some space marines and I'm struggling for the best look for purple armour. Bit of both! I used a 1/2 round file to score them but left the sort of, pushed out lower lip? , then painted it with leadbelcher, then washed it down heavy as hell with agrax, then drybrushed necron compound to get the highlights
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Apr 24, 2020 11:32
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I got some individually based 15mm metal minis I want to rebase, what's the best way to break the CA glue bond without destroying the models? Freezing then chipping away at them with a screwdriver?
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Apr 24, 2020 11:58
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Have you already painted them? If not, just use acetone/nail polish remover.
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Apr 24, 2020 12:05
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They're just basecoated but they are already based with sand/pva if that matters.
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Apr 24, 2020 12:22
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Anything that would work on superglue will also damage any paint, except maybe extremely careful work with a razor saw. I would just use acetone, then strip the rest of the paint, rebase and repaint, honestly.
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Apr 24, 2020 15:22
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How does Vallejo Gold Metal Color hold up to GW Retributor Armor? My pot RA is almost done and I adore the VMCs I just don't want a noticeable difference between my models painted with RA and the VMC.
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Apr 24, 2020 21:12
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I had terrible luck with Vallejo Model Air Metallic gold and brass - first bottles were fine then everything after that was either way too thin or just a solid chunk. No amount of shaking fixed them. The just plain Model Color gold is fine consistency-wise. I’d go with VMC Brass as the closest to Retributor myself, although it’s still a little light. Gold and Old Gold are way too light. 
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Apr 24, 2020 22:16
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Finished painting my blood bowl troll for my team "Da 'Ornets". Can't wait for all this to blow over so I can get a game and try him out.  
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Apr 24, 2020 22:45
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Two Headed Calf posted:How does Vallejo Gold Metal Color hold up to GW Retributor Armor? My pot RA is almost done and I adore the VMCs I just don't want a noticeable difference between my models painted with RA and the VMC. the metal color is pretty green/yellow and i'd say is closer to liberator armour than retributor armour. you could probably get a good mix between metal color gold and copper but might be annoying to do it every time (and you need to get the copper)
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Apr 24, 2020 22:48
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head58 posted:I had terrible luck with Vallejo Model Air Metallic gold and brass - first bottles were fine then everything after that was either way too thin or just a solid chunk. No amount of shaking fixed them. The just plain Model Color gold is fine consistency-wise. So a big thing to note is that Vallejo Metal Color is not the same as their other paint lines like Vallejo Model Color or Model Air, they are a significantly higher quality and specifically only metal paints. Sadly I don't have any GW metals to compare to so I can't really help out Two Headed Calf.
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Apr 24, 2020 23:15
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I've got the Start Collecting Skeleton Horde box from the Age of Sigmar on the way, because I hate money and needed another game to never play. I was thinking of going with bronze for the swords and shields to make them look extra ancient. Anyone have recommendations on paints to use to get a bronze metal color?
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Apr 25, 2020 02:28
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I picked up one of those "learn to paint minis" kits to keep myself occupied while furloughed and on quarantine. Went with this because I wanted some practice models before I try my hand at painting some minis in my boardgame collection, namely the Kemet monsters. Looking forward to starting this, and now I'm considering grabbing a few battetech models if I like it 'cause mechs are cool. Watched a few youtube tutorials and I won't need to prep the bits I have to paint right now so I'm thinking I'm ready to start. have my desk clean with a lamp overhead, went ahead and picked up an x-acto knife and some sticky tack to mount them to a pill bottle. Planning on doing the wet palette trick with paper towels and parchment paper. Any other noob tips? You guys wanna see my horrible results when I'm done?
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Apr 25, 2020 07:14
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Stan Taylor posted:I picked up one of those "learn to paint minis" kits to keep myself occupied while furloughed and on quarantine. Went with this because I wanted some practice models before I try my hand at painting some minis in my boardgame collection, namely the Kemet monsters. Looking forward to starting this, and now I'm considering grabbing a few battetech models if I like it 'cause mechs are cool. Watched a few youtube tutorials and I won't need to prep the bits I have to paint right now so I'm thinking I'm ready to start. have my desk clean with a lamp overhead, went ahead and picked up an x-acto knife and some sticky tack to mount them to a pill bottle. Planning on doing the wet palette trick with paper towels and parchment paper. Any other noob tips? You guys wanna see my horrible results when I'm done? Some noob tips, in no particular order; Dont accidentally drink your water jar. Dont accidentally clean your brush in your coffee. Multiple thin coats are better than one thick coat; You can always add more paint to a model, trying to take paint back off is harder! The wet palette will help with this. Dont stress about it. Its a hobby, its supposed to be fun. Your first model wont be as good as your 10th one, which wont be as good as your 100th one, and thats fine! Still looks nicer than bare plastic. A dark wash covers a multitude of sins. When you take a photo of the miniature you will notice a bunch of things that werent apparent to the naked eye. Just remember that literally no-one will ever look as closely at your models as you do, or as critically! A black undercoat means any parts you miss painting look like shadow which is good. On the other hand, a white undercoat makes the colours on top of it pop more (and good luck trying to put yellow over black..). Like many things in the hobby, there is no one true path. Do what works for you with the model you are currently painting and the materials you have to hand. If you are priming with spray paints ("rattlecans") you might want to check out a technique called "Zenithal Highlighting". Its easy to do and can make picking out the highlights on a miniature easier. You just need 2 spray paints, a light one and darker one. Edit to add: Also dont be afraid to ask questions, this thread is pretty friendly and people like to help. And yes, of course we want to see your results.
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Apr 25, 2020 11:15
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Cinara posted:So a big thing to note is that Vallejo Metal Color is not the same as their other paint lines like Vallejo Model Color or Model Air, they are a significantly higher quality and specifically only metal paints. Also, don't use VMC when talking about metallics because people will get both lines confused.
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Apr 25, 2020 11:38
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SiKboy posted:Some noob tips, in no particular order; Also,
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Apr 25, 2020 11:42
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SiKboy posted:You can always add more paint to a model, trying to take paint back off is harder! Taking paint off is super easy with either simple green or what's known as brown or green soap, ie. a soft soap with potassium hydroxide in it and a pH around 13-14, it strips all kinds of paint extremely well, while being safe for metal and most plastics. Let them sit covered for ~24 hours, then rinse off with warm water and a toothbrush. And always wear gloves.Obviously this strips ALL the paint, including primer, so it's more like the nuclear option. So don't worry about maybe totally messing up a paintjob, you can pretty much always start over. I have some miniatures where I've started over like 3-4 times because of bad colorscheme choices. It also means you can buy messily painted minis on eBay for cheap, strip them and paint them yourself 
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Apr 25, 2020 12:54
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Pierzak posted:This. VModelC and VAir metals are meh (except VAir Steel which is amazing for mixing colored metallics), while VMetalC are noticeably better quality and worth trying out. There's also a Liquid Gold line which looks even better but is alcohol-based and finicky in application. Ooh, that's good to know. I always found the regular Vallejo metallics annoying to work with - they have a weird viscosity and it's difficult to thin it properly - so I tend to use Tamiya's which are awesome. But they are alcohol based and that comes with its own set of annoying things. If the Vallejo's metal line is so much better then it might be the right middle ground!
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Apr 25, 2020 14:01
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Furism posted:Ooh, that's good to know. I always found the regular Vallejo metallics annoying to work with - they have a weird viscosity and it's difficult to thin it properly - so I tend to use Tamiya's which are awesome. But they are alcohol based and that comes with its own set of annoying things. If the Vallejo's metal line is so much better then it might be the right middle ground! I have the VMetalColor Copper and find it quite nice. If you have access to Scale 75, they have awesome metallics (might be my new favorites) with the caveat that they name the paints after metal music genres which is cute but tells you gently caress all about the color.
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Apr 25, 2020 14:06
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