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Motronic posted:That's the wrong size. It's literally a 20" Culligan Big Blue - it's all right there What expand an image and actually read the size written on it? You are some kind of wizard  edit: added quote since this is top of page
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Apr 24, 2020 21:07
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gently caress this basketball pole: I honestly thought I could maneuver around it...but I can't get far enough out of my garage to turn around it without my front end hitting the the very edge of the wall. It would be really nice to back my truck all the way up to my raised beds to fill them, but even if I dig out the pole, no way can I get it out myself...best I can do it hook tow straps up to it and drag it out with my truck. But the only place to go is straight, which would then leave it in either my garage or driveway, and therefore still in the way, unless by some small chance it's a very small amount of concrete and my truck has enough clearance to go over it.
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Apr 24, 2020 21:51
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Do you have a jack of some sort? Look on YouTube for examples of how to jack pokes out of the ground. Should work for a basketball goal too. The just back saw the metal pole into pieces and throw it somewhere in the backyard until bulk trash day.
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Apr 24, 2020 22:00
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I bought a house in December, and one thing that was noted during the inspection process was the deck railings: the space between the balusters is too large, and the sweep space between the deck surface and the bottom of the railings is too large as well. I figured this would be a straightforward DIY fix, and didn't view it as a pressing safety concern in part because the decks are all fairly low; mostly 3-3.5' above grade, at the highest points no more than 4'. So I put off fixing until spring.  I live in a snowy area, and I realized over the winter the likely reason why the sweep space is so large: 1+ foot overnight dumps of wet, heavy snow is not at all uncommon here, and the large sweep space makes it much easier to clear the decks by pushing the snow off the edge, rather than shoveling it up and over the railing. With about 700 square feet of deck space, this isn't an insignificant convenience. That said, I do care about safety and keeping up to code. My question: any brilliant ideas for how to update the railings to be code compliant while also maintaining ease of snow clearing in the winter? I'll just deal with more difficult shoveling if I have to, it's not that big a deal, but would be nice not to.
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Apr 24, 2020 22:01
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2x4's here: ....and double the balusers. Might not look great, but that's the quick fix. Otherwise replace ALL the balusters (and more) with longer ones. This obviously requires partial disassembly and moving the bottom cross piece down to code correct levels. I don't think there's any reasonable or good looking way to make a "snow door" but I suppose you could it like my first suggestion and make the 2x4s easily removable.
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Apr 24, 2020 22:15
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Do this, imho: https://deckandrailsupply.com/blogs/deck-and-railing-blog/cable-railing-systems
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Apr 24, 2020 22:23
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DrBouvenstein posted:gently caress this basketball pole: Depending on exactly how much you are ok with being a Previous Owner (  ) you can also just take a hacksaw and cut the post off at ground level; you'd just leave the remainder and whatever concrete anchor there is in the ground for someone else to deal with when they have an issue with it (maybe you, may some poor guy redoing the drive in several years). This is what everyone around here seems to have done with old washing-line poles.
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Apr 24, 2020 22:34
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Ashcans posted:Depending on exactly how much you are ok with being a Previous Owner ( I was thinking that but also would need to cover the remainder in some way since they're going to be driving around and don't want to pop a tire.
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Apr 24, 2020 22:38
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edit: ooops, missed a page and was kinda late to property tax chat The Canadian system seems pretty favourable to me, anyway. We pay on average much lower property taxes than the amounts I see for US states and counties again and again. In my area, we have a third party organization that is responsible for assessing property. They use a combination of sale prices, current taxes around your property and attributes of the property. The assessed amount is typically less than market price, but not out of touch unless you do major improvements. Then it takes them time to work them in. It seems reasonable to me that just because the market goes apeshit and there are bidding wars in the driveway, the tax basis for the property shouldn't keep direct pace. Much larger numbers of people would slowly lose their homes due to the RE market taking off when they maybe bought what was a modest home in a modest neighbourhood on their modest income. For school funding, our province collects the taxes they collect. Then they fund schools with what schools need (more or less, different debate) That amount is based on what it costs to run a school, not how well the school does in standardized testing, or what the median property tax of the neighbourhood is. Teacher salaries are also fairly standard, with some incentive for remote locations. So Ms. Crabapple in Richville makes the same as Mr. Smith in Poortown across the tracks. Imagine if infrastructure was handled the same way as schools? Yeah, the nicer neighbourhoods might get wider boulevards with trees when it's appropriate to the area, but overall the pavement and light standards and such things used are the same across regions. mr.belowaverage fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Apr 24, 2020 |
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Apr 24, 2020 22:38
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mr.belowaverage posted:Imagine if infrastructure was handled the same way as schools? Yeah, the nicer neighbourhoods might get wider boulevards with trees when it's appropriate to the area, but overall the pavement and light standards and such things used are the same across regions. Never been on UK public transport, I see.
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Apr 24, 2020 22:39
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Jaded Burnout posted:Never been on UK public transport, I see. I imagine it's not wildly different from Canada since our systems came from yours. Does the rich neighbourhood have a really nice bus, and then you have to transfer to a really lovely bus if you get to a poor neighbourhood?
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Apr 24, 2020 22:42
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Sirotan posted:Do this, imho: https://deckandrailsupply.com/blogs/deck-and-railing-blog/cable-railing-systems Ohhh yeah. If OP wants to change everything up cable rails look awesome.
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Apr 24, 2020 22:55
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mr.belowaverage posted:I imagine it's not wildly different from Canada since our systems came from yours. Buses are a thing unto themselves, but the wealthy areas definitely get better trains and stations.
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Apr 24, 2020 23:09
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SpartanIvy posted:Do you have a jack of some sort? Look on YouTube for examples of how to jack pokes out of the ground. Should work for a basketball goal too. The just back saw the metal pole into pieces and throw it somewhere in the backyard until bulk trash day. 3, technically, but I don't think any are the right kind. I have a lovely scissor jack from my car, a less lovely but not still not great bottle jack from my truck, and a regular floor jack I bought since the other two are only good for changing a tire. Looks like I'd need a farm jack/hi-lift jack? And I had thought about cutting it off short, but I tried to go at it with my sawzall and didn't get very far before my blade was hella dull. It's a decent blade, too. I have another of the same brand that's 100% fresh (previous one had very light usage, just some nails,) but it's only a 4" blade, really need a 6 or 8" to do it right. DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Apr 24, 2020 |
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Apr 24, 2020 23:20
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B-Nasty posted:Any transfer/inheritance of the property would also trigger the taxes, so that you don't have a house dynasty paying 70s-level taxes on multi-million dollar property. The grandson that can't pay taxes due at transfer doesn't have any more right to live there at low taxes than anybody else. Disagree because this would specifically impact my bff who would have to move hours away/out of state if they didn't have grandpa's old house to stay in.  It's also lovely when the proceeds from a house sale get eaten up by taxes so bad that you can't afford your next home. (Anyone upgrading to double the sqft can suck my dick tho) DrBouvenstein posted:In Vermont, 20-ish years ago, the legislature passed Act 60, which, to an extent, tries to balance local taxes and school districts. People felt it was unfair that the rich ski towns had all this money, and yet a low residential tax rate, for their schools, meanwhile podunk towns had higher tax rate and struggling schools. lmao goddamn
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Apr 24, 2020 23:28
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mr.belowaverage posted:edit: ooops, missed a page and was kinda late to property tax chat The other bit of it in my part of western Canada is that the tax isn't just a fixed percentage on the assessed price it's based on the municipal budget and their five year planning. Once the overall municipal budget is set, other revenue subtracted the remainder gets divided up between property classes and then a rate is set per class. Overall it means if property values all increased evenly across the city and the budget doesn't your taxes wouldn't change.
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Apr 24, 2020 23:30
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And I think you should just enjoy that snow-efficient deck until it gets unstable or kids/pets require containment.
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Apr 24, 2020 23:40
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Jaded Burnout posted:Buses are a thing unto themselves, but the wealthy areas definitely get better trains and stations. I assumed stations and facilities, but the trains, too? Admittedly, this is all I know about UK public transport: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0sFvFVkeGVg
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Apr 24, 2020 23:41
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DrBouvenstein posted:3, technically, but I don't think any are the right kind. I have a lovely scissor jack from my car, a less lovely but not still not great bottle jack from my truck, and a regular floor jack I bought since the other two are only good for changing a tire. I'm going to be trying to use my bottle jack to help my girlfriend remove some concreted in wood posts in her yard this weekend so I'll let you know how it goes.
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Apr 24, 2020 23:47
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Motronic posted:That's the wrong size. It's literally a 20" Culligan Big Blue - it's all right there Thanks. Is this the sort of filter where the need to replace should be visible upon inspection? Or should I just go ahead and replace it?
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Apr 25, 2020 00:31
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joepinetree posted:Thanks. Is this the sort of filter where the need to replace should be visible upon inspection? Or should I just go ahead and replace it? Depends on what it's filtering out of your water. If it's silt - sure, that's easy to see. Some other stuff, not so much. Have you had a water test done? Possibly when you bought the place as part of your home inspection? Might tell you what kind of filter you should be looking for.
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Apr 25, 2020 00:48
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Motronic posted:Depends on what it's filtering out of your water. If it's silt - sure, that's easy to see. Some other stuff, not so much. Yeah, inspection found nothing wrong with the water. My guess is that its just sediment, especially rust, which seems to be common in the area.
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Apr 25, 2020 01:01
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joepinetree posted:Yeah, inspection found nothing wrong with the water. My guess is that its just sediment, especially rust, which seems to be common in the area. Then I'd just do what is says and replace it once a year. That's the point of having a gigantic filter like that: it's good for 10s of thousands of gallons so you can just forget about it for 12 months at a time when it's just rust and sediment.
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Apr 25, 2020 01:07
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Motronic posted:Then I'd just do what is says and replace it once a year. That's the point of having a gigantic filter like that: it's good for 10s of thousands of gallons so you can just forget about it for 12 months at a time when it's just rust and sediment. My concern is if the previous owners replaced it this february, but the water here is probably clean enough that if i skip a year it wouldnt be a big deal.
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Apr 25, 2020 02:39
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joepinetree posted:My concern is if the previous owners replaced it this february, but the water here is probably clean enough that if i skip a year it wouldnt be a big deal. If it in in fact for visible things, you're still gonna need one for next year. And the strap wrench, and some o rings just in case. Get that stuff together, turn off the valves on either side of it (that should be there - if not this is gonna be fun) and take a look. If it looks new bolt is back up and you've got everything you need for next February. I don't know what your PO was like, but it's a 50/49/1% chance of "hasn't been replaced in years or is actually empty because it was clogging and slowing down the water"/"It was changed 2 Februaries ago because - screw that this house is on the market now"/"it was changed on time".
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Apr 25, 2020 02:44
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Motronic posted:If it in in fact for visible things, you're still gonna need one for next year. And the strap wrench, and some o rings just in case. Get that stuff together, turn off the valves on either side of it (that should be there - if not this is gonna be fun) and take a look. If it looks new bolt is back up and you've got everything you need for next February. There's valves on either side and what looks like a bypass (if I took a picture from the opposite side it would have a similar valve on a similar place. Given that what looks like a bypass pipe with valve is there, the whole thing may be doing nothing. 
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Apr 25, 2020 03:05
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Yeah, that's not doing anything (or very very little). The bypass needs to be in the other position and both valves on each side of the filter need to be in the orientation of the one you can see in the pic. This leads to the first scenario I mentioned is the most likely, with a 3rd permutation: started clogging and instead of removing the filter from the housing they just opened the bypass and didn't even bother turning off the valves on the filter.
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Apr 25, 2020 03:39
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We're probably replacing the water heater soon (2004 unit right now) so I am not going to worry too much about it. Water was fine on inspection and the unit had been unoccupied for a few months and no sign of rust on toilets and stuff (my current apartment that I am moving out from we pretty much have to clean toilets every week because rust accumulates that quickly).
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Apr 25, 2020 04:27
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I have some Schlage double cylinder deadbolts. Can you buy just the toggle half to replace the interior side cylinder with a keyless toggle or do I have to buy a complete new lockset? Also, I installed a keyed Andersen storm door on my back door that came with a Kwikset cylinder. It looks like I can buy a replacement Schlage lock cylinder and rekey it to my house keys. Is rekeying a cylinder very difficult, and is there an affordable rekeying kit out there to do this? Results on Amazon were in the $70+ range and included way more pins than I would ever use in a lifetime.
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Apr 25, 2020 10:50
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Jaded Burnout posted:Buses are a thing unto themselves, but the wealthy areas definitely get better trains and stations. It quickly becomes a self fulfilling prophesy too - in part they’re wealthy because richer people move there because of the good public transport too.
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Apr 25, 2020 10:54
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MetaJew posted:I have some Schlage double cylinder deadbolts. Can you buy just the toggle half to replace the interior side cylinder with a keyless toggle or do I have to buy a complete new lockset? I don't think it's that hard, but it's probably easier and cheaper to get the people at the hardware store to rekey the new cylinder to match your existing key.
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Apr 25, 2020 13:02
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MetaJew posted:I have some Schlage double cylinder deadbolts. Can you buy just the toggle half to replace the interior side cylinder with a keyless toggle or do I have to buy a complete new lockset? I bought this kit on ebay last year to rekey mine and it worked great: https://www.ebay.com/itm/171120637199
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Apr 25, 2020 13:31
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Nevets posted:I bought this kit on ebay last year to rekey mine and it worked great: Thanks Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Couldn't you leave the key in the interior cylinder? My front door is mostly glass so I don't want a toggle and I don't want to have to gently caress around with my keys all the time, so I leave the key in the lock all the time when I'm home. Yeah my back door is mostly glass and I just installed a security/storm door over it so I'm not as concerned about the security issue of the door being broken to then allow a turn of the knob. I suppose leaving a key in it is an option, but for whatever reason I just don't like the idea of leaving something out that could be stolen or lost. Normally I would just let the hardware store rekey it, but I want to limit my exposure there as much as possible since the Lowe's near my house has already had an employee death from covid-19. In addition, the Andersen/Schlage lock cylinder only appears to be available as a direct order part from Andersen. I couldn't find it within the Home Depot website.
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Apr 25, 2020 15:55
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Well, I'm a stupid moron, when an ugly face, anda Bigg butt, and my butt smells, and I like to kiss my own butt. The amount of concrete they used is insane...like, over a 2' diameter, no clue how deep. Since the concrete pad is 3 inches under the soil, I decided cutting it off and burying it is ok. Went through 3 quality, heavy duty metal cutting blades on my sawzall. Was, at best, 1/10 the way through the pole... Maybe there is some concrete in the very bottom of the pole? Then I remembered I own an angle grinder... Why TF was I bothering with a loving Sawzall? But, because I am an unorganized sack of poo poo and have not unpacked and organized all the tools when I moved here last fall, I cannot find my stash of cutting wheels or, more importantly, the nut that holds the wheel onto the grinder.
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Apr 25, 2020 16:48
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Please tell me about AC brands and SHEER ratings. I have a larger house, but the HVAC is 20 yrs old. I have two AC and two furnaces. The tune up guy is like "you have a leak, and you have banned freeon". So anyways, I got quoted about 12500 for two Carrier systems. 16 SHEER. One 2 ton and one 2.5 ton. Seem right? He said Lennox systems suck donkey dick ? I live in Atlanta. I gotta get the AC working pretty soon. I ha e an infant daughter. Thanks goons.
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Apr 25, 2020 17:04
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SEER is the energy efficiency rating 13/14 seems to be the sweet spot unless you're paying a lot for electricity or are running it almost all year long, you may or may not get the ROI on the increased cost. That sounds like a shitton but no don't know your market. Most of the quotes I got for a single 2 ton at 13/14 were in the 4k range, but you'd also need to do an air handler as well. In my area I got a furnace and AC fully replaced with. 2 new lines of duct work and a main trunk replacement for 8k. Call around for costs and ask if the cost changes based on financing (one place hid 15% interest into the purchase price for 72 month financing when I said I would only need 12-18mos it was a lot lower price) Brand doesn't matter as much as warranty and install. Lennox is kind of poo poo though from my research. There is a stickied HVAC thread in diy. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Apr 25, 2020 |
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Apr 25, 2020 17:28
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TheReverend posted:Please tell me about AC brands and SHEER ratings. I got 2 Ameristar 2.5 ton units installed in the Nashville area about 2 years ago for $8800. I forget the SEER but I went with the lower option as the level above was about a 50% cost increase and I didn't feel we'd make that back (and then we moved so I was right). The units were name brand but rebranded models and yeah the warranty is the key part. That and finding a good HVAC company. I would aim for small companies as the bigger ones tend to perversely have worse pricing.
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Apr 25, 2020 18:32
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Oh yeah, I was a dumbass. Couldn't find the parts to my good angle grinder, but I must have anticipated this a while ago because I found a HF grinder behind the seat of my truck, new in box. This took less than five minutes:   As I suspected, there was concrete in the bottom of the pole, hence why the sawzall sucked. I probably could have managed to cut the metal around it, then smash it to break the concrete, but this was still faster I'm sure. Drive thru garage or GTFO: 
DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Apr 25, 2020 |
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Apr 25, 2020 19:45
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Darn, I was going to recommend that you tie a rope/cable to the top of the pole and pull it with your truck to see if you could just lever the thing to pop off where you'd weakened the base. Is filling a post like that typical? I don't think I've seen that before.
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Apr 25, 2020 21:41
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Ashcans posted:Darn, I was going to recommend that you tie a rope/cable to the top of the pole and pull it with your truck to see if you could just lever the thing to pop off where you'd weakened the base. Both of the hoops that dads put up in my neighborhood during my childhood did put concrete in the pole. One of them all the way to the top and the other just in the bottom 3 or 4 feet above the footer. Weirdly I have very clear memories of these projects; I have never liked basketball much.
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Apr 25, 2020 22:27
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