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Kheldarn posted:Yeah, so far, my biggest issue is that I see no way to choose between 2.4 and 5gHz connections. It looks like I'll have to disable 2.4, connect everything that can use 5, then re-enable 2.4. That's not optimal. One workaround seems to be to make the guest network 2.4 only and connect older or IoT crap to that network
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Apr 24, 2020 07:45
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Acer Pilot posted:One workaround seems to be to make the guest network 2.4 only and connect older or IoT crap to that network Yeah, make 2 SSID's. My office AP doesn't even have 2.4 turned on, you're welcome close neighbors. I only have it on in the house for my sketchy webcam baby monitors. movax posted:I was thinking something like this: https://www.fs.com/products/17770.html MPO cables and their ilk are used for various things. You can run 100G natively over them. You can also break them out with cassettes into a number of duplex pairs depending on the type you buy. If you're installing fiber you should expect to be punching holes in your walls at every point where there is a turn, wood blocking, etc. At this point I would be focused on installing conduit if you're going to insist on fiber. If you ever put a screw through this fiber you're going to be R&R'ing the whole span as you don't have the appropriate tools to do inline splicing (I presume.) Remember that 10G will run just fine over UTP cable for 100M if you get appropriate transceivers. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Apr 24, 2020 |
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Apr 24, 2020 14:58
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H110Hawk posted:Remember that 10G will run just fine over UTP cable for 100M if you get appropriate transceivers. 10Gbase-t can run on 100m stretches? Yes Transceivers can run on 100m? Not that I know of, all sfp+ in the market stop at 30m
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Apr 24, 2020 15:23
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The other night we had a pretty good thunderstorm roll through. My setup is the cable modem, Unifi Security Gateway, 8 port unifi switch, NanoHD AP (PoE through the switch). Everything is hooked up through Cyberpower Sinewave UPS. Well of course I have a pretty close lightning strike to my house and my internet goes out. When I go and investigate everything is working properly except the Security Gateway shows a steady green light on the Console and Wan1 ports like they are in use. Restarting the gateway didn't fix it. I mean what more could I do in this situation? My only theory is that the cheap little DC converter power cable is so thin that a nearby lightning strike caused a surge in between the UPS and the Security Gateway. Is that even possible?
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Apr 24, 2020 15:36
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Protecting against something like a lightning strike is incredibly difficult, and yes, something like that could arc between devices. I'd suspect you'd see some burning in that case, though. In truth, UPSes aren't infallible and it's more likely that it didn't 100% protect you. Unifi stuff does seem pretty sensitive to power issues, to bad DC converters, etc. I'd see if you have another power brick that would work and try that, but otherwise, yes, it does sound like your USG is dead.
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Apr 24, 2020 15:46
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nerox posted:The other night we had a pretty good thunderstorm roll through. My USG did the whole console port is stuck on with no cable when its storage fried itself, if you don’t mind tinkering a bit before junking it.
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Apr 24, 2020 15:55
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SlowBloke posted:10Gbase-t can run on 100m stretches? Yes Fair enough. I continue to be super dubious of the need/want for 10G at home, but if folks want to try to get fiber through their walls goon speed.
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Apr 24, 2020 19:25
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Fallom posted:Just use macvlan on the container to assign it an IP on your local network That seems pretty interesting and I'm reading up on the matter (and getting a headache for my troubles). Can I just point the new network at eth0 and be good to go or will that conflict with the host machine which is also using that adapter?
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Apr 24, 2020 20:33
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Warbird posted:That seems pretty interesting and I'm reading up on the matter (and getting a headache for my troubles). Can I just point the new network at eth0 and be good to go or will that conflict with the host machine which is also using that adapter? ip addr add 192.168.1.69/24 dev eth0 Fill in values as appropriate. Ifconfig is dead on Linux. There is more distro specific work to make that persistent but that is the gist of what you want to do to test it out.
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Apr 24, 2020 20:48
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CopperHound posted:Oh, I've never encountered armored zip cable before so I can't speak to personal experience. I have two concerns I want to point out: H110Hawk posted:MPO cables and their ilk are used for various things. You can run 100G natively over them. You can also break them out with cassettes into a number of duplex pairs depending on the type you buy. Thanks, this is really helpful. I've pulled only copper / Cat5 before, so fiber is a new beast to me. I don't "need" 10Gb (who does, really at home), but I do plan on making my gooncave office the very top floor 4F (using a MoCA adapter for now since it has coax) where I'm gonna toss my ESXi box, main PC and some other stuff. There are so many runs in this place (Security system, in-wall speakers) over the years and I'm not sure when (if at all) drywall was completely torn out to sneak it in, or if it was just a series of patches done. Just hoping I can find a good vertical channel, ideally to piggyback along all the coax to get the backbone through.
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Apr 24, 2020 20:57
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H110Hawk posted:ip addr add 192.168.1.69/24 dev eth0 I’ve spent most of the afternoon messing with this to no avail. I think I’ll go slap pihole on an extra pi and have it volume out the logs to my NAS so the SD card hopefully doesn’t explode in the near future. I did get a nginx reverse proxy thing running, so progress there. I was wanting to set up a container network to run on VPN only so I’ll likely swing back around to it at some point.
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Apr 24, 2020 23:57
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What the heck is this thing? I don’t understand what it’s for and why they didn’t just crimp a connector on instead of doing this weird 4 connectors back to 1 thing. The blue end goes to the fios/WiFi combo router and the green end goes to the FIOS wall unit. 
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Apr 25, 2020 01:40
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GutBomb posted:What the heck is this thing? I don’t understand what it’s for and why they didn’t just crimp a connector on instead of doing this weird 4 connectors back to 1 thing. lol That looks like a voice block for a telco box. It's supposed to be screwed into your demarc point (where the ONT is - the thing with the actual fiber) and then used to route voice in your house. That is some lazy poo poo. See the other one with the RJ-11 voice jack on it? Do you have TV service? If not you can return that router. Hell even if you have just 1 TV you can return it.
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Apr 25, 2020 02:02
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H110Hawk posted:lol That looks like a voice block for a telco box. It's supposed to be screwed into your demarc point (where the ONT is - the thing with the actual fiber) and then used to route voice in your house. That is some lazy poo poo. See the other one with the RJ-11 voice jack on it? Do you have TV service? If not you can return that router. Hell even if you have just 1 TV you can return it. This is at my bro in law’s place and I’m trying to help him with some issues remotely. They have tv and phone too. The phone output from the black box in the side of the photo has another one of these guys. The cable that goes from that black box to the router should just be a regular old Ethernet cable right? It is confusing me that even if the wires in the cable need to be in a different order why didn’t he just crimp one connector with the wires in the right order instead of crimping 4 connectors that plug into this thing. GutBomb fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Apr 25, 2020 |
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Apr 25, 2020 02:04
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Warbird posted:I’ve spent most of the afternoon messing with this to no avail. I think I’ll go slap pihole on an extra pi and have it volume out the logs to my NAS so the SD card hopefully doesn’t explode in the near future. I did get a nginx reverse proxy thing running, so progress there. I was wanting to set up a container network to run on VPN only so I’ll likely swing back around to it at some point. I'm sorry, I made a mistake. I skim read it and thought you just needed another IP on the host to bind into docker. The command I gave you, if you pick an ip in your network that isn't used, will give you two IPs on your base server. Seems docker doesn't support this method in the way I assumed it did. This tutorial, which I also barely skimmed, and uses ifconfig and ip together because this is why we can't have nice things, seems to cover exactly what you want: https://collabnix.com/2-minutes-to-docker-macvlan-networking-a-beginners-guide/ You make a macvlan network (this is like having a switch sitting on your desk), then you use `ip link` to bridge them together (this is like hooking up a cable from that switch to your "home network"). Then docker can just work, and it gives exact examples where you can plug in your own at home and see how it works. GutBomb posted:We have tv and phone. The phone output from the ONT has another one of these guys. I'm just guessing at that part but I am pretty sure it's just regular ethernet. As to why? Well the installer had that on his truck and
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Apr 25, 2020 02:16
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Ha ha oh man, I swung by that tutorial a while ago. I'll bookmark it and take another swing at it at a later date. I've just tossed the thing on an extra Pi and we'll hope for the best. Damnedest thing is that I couldn't get it to play nice in a docker container on the Pi while it worked fine (mostly) on the Ubuntu box. Just one of those nights I guess. Conceptual question tangentially related. I was looking into routing some of my containers through VPN. Could I simply go grab a Ubuntu base image, slap Nord's client on there with necessary configs and point my other containers at it via --net=container:vpncontainer? I assume if I put the vpncontainer on --net=host then things should more or less be good to go.
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Apr 25, 2020 06:35
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Warbird posted:Ha ha oh man, I swung by that tutorial a while ago. I'll bookmark it and take another swing at it at a later date. I've just tossed the thing on an extra Pi and we'll hope for the best. Damnedest thing is that I couldn't get it to play nice in a docker container on the Pi while it worked fine (mostly) on the Ubuntu box. Just one of those nights I guess. Hey, I was just able to get this working after about a day of messing with it. Great timing. I had to cobble correct and complete instructions from a couple of different articles. It was a pain to figure out how to get it working but in the end the number of steps is really small. I used that article to gain some understanding but mainly this one: https://geekvisit.com/pi-hole-and-macvlan/ And this one to install docker-compose correctly as the above article leaves out a bunch of steps I had to do: https://dev.to/rohansawant/installing-docker-and-docker-compose-on-the-raspberry-pi-in-5-simple-steps-3mgl I also did a “sudo rpi-update” because my pi model 3 B+ had been sitting around a while. Not sure if it mattered but I wanted to include it in case it did. It was worth it... docker-compose makes the whole thing really self-contained since I was worried about recreating the pihole in case it failed. Plus I can put other crap on it and not worry about ports conflicting and whatnot or if I need to take it down and leave my network DNS-less. Good luck!
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Apr 25, 2020 08:13
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Sorry, I bet this question is really boring for you guys, but I didn't see anything in the OP about mesh. I have ATT 1gb fiber. I need to replace my 2008 model airport to reach more of my house. Right now I'm using a linksys that's been flashed as an extender. It chokes on itself multiple times per week. I am looking for a "spend money to get stability" option. Is mesh the answer or is it for dumb people? Ideally, I would cover my 1500 sq foot house and 500 sq foot screen porch and well into my yard. I do have decent networking and unix knowledge, but would rather not futz with stuff. Any reqs? 1 other key piece of info. I have a single cat 5 run to either side of my house that I would like to leverage as well. headcase fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Apr 25, 2020 |
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Apr 25, 2020 19:46
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headcase posted:Sorry, I bet this question is really boring for you guys, but I didn't see anything in the OP about mesh. Budget? If you've got 1GB fiber and it works with it, I'd consider UDM/UDM-PRO and then nanoHDs on the other end of your runs, plus another nanoHD if you go with a UDM-PRO over a UDM. Doesn't require much computer touching, Unifi hardware/software is pretty great.
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Apr 25, 2020 19:50
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Buff Hardback posted:Budget? Thanks I will look into it. I would say less than $400 would be nice, but whatever the breakpoint is for stress free, reliable long lasting product.
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Apr 25, 2020 19:55
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GutBomb posted:What the heck is this thing? I don’t understand what it’s for and why they didn’t just crimp a connector on instead of doing this weird 4 connectors back to 1 thing.  This is how it's "supposed" to be installed. This is outside in a weatherproof box. Ignore the RJ-45 barrel connector, that was leftover from an interim re-route across my lawn with a 100ft flat ethernet cable when I was trying to get my office wired up. Blue cable goes to an ER-X, white with green strain relief is the fiber, black is power, grey RJ-11's are phone lines (not in use), green is ground, and black at the bottom is coaxial for TV terminated into my TiVo. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Apr 25, 2020 |
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Apr 25, 2020 19:55
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Buff Hardback posted:Budget? drat you that does look nice at twice my stated budget (It will probably happen). I would love to hear any more budget friendly options though.
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Apr 25, 2020 20:04
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I would grab like Eero or Google mesh products. I would go with the former over the latter but it's up to you. If you can get a wire to the place(s) you want wifi access points, and you might only need 1, an ER-X ($61) and 1 or 2 nanoHD's ($160/ea) will likely do what you need just at your budget. My nanoHD gives me spotty access in the absolute back of my backyard and it's in potentially the worst place, mounted on a ceiling or even higher than 3ft off the ground in a corner with a ton of wires around it would likely get my whole yard covered. (I think it's a 7500sq ft lot? I forget.)
H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Apr 25, 2020 |
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Apr 25, 2020 20:09
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Or plume. I think all these major mesh setups start under 400.
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Apr 25, 2020 20:13
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H110Hawk posted:I would grab like Eero or Google mesh products. I would go with the former over the latter but it's up to you. If you can get a wire to the place(s) you want wifi access points, and you might only need 1, an ER-X ($61) and 1 or 2 nanoHD's ($160/ea) will likely do what you need just at your budget. My nanoHD gives me spotty access in the absolute back of my backyard and it's in potentially the worst place, mounted on a ceiling or even higher than 3ft off the ground in a corner with a ton of wires around it would likely get my whole yard covered. (I think it's a 7500sq ft lot? I forget.) Yeah I am looking at options like that added one. Also, considering a UDM on one side of my run and a single nano on the other side. I'll get another nano later if needed.
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Apr 25, 2020 20:24
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headcase posted:Yeah I am looking at options like that added one. That also works. Considering the UDM is an access point in of itself (and is basically a nanoHD IIRC), it's a pretty solid deal. nanoHDs have stupid range, and you may not need 3 in total.
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Apr 25, 2020 20:39
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This UDM talk is really tempting me. I swore for a while I'd get the seperate components but a UDM is a bit too tempting for condo use where space is at a premium and I may not want to play network janitor
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Apr 25, 2020 20:56
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Real sorry for the sudden bombardment of posts here. I think I'm honing in on a solution. It turns out I would like a switch in both locations too. How do y'all feel about this? ATT fiber -> UDM in my battlestation/office in the front of the house where the fiber comes in. -> Straight run Ethernet cable to the back of my house -> Another UDM -> Ethernet to Console/OLEDTV -> my wife's office it about 20 feet away (wireless). Do I need a crossover between devices or is straight fine? This is basically exactly what I have now except both devices are ubiquiti instead of 20 year old linksys and 12 year old airport. I priced a nano and managed switch and the price isn't much different.
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Apr 25, 2020 23:13
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Before buying Ubiquiti's UDM or UDMpro, do yourself a favor and do some research on the official forum for complaints about any "weird" scenarios you need for your network. A lot of features are missing from the UDM routers and Ubiquiti isn't very good at communicating what features are coming, when they will be available or what changes are in a given firmware update.
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Apr 25, 2020 23:19
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headcase posted:Real sorry for the sudden bombardment of posts here. I think I'm honing in on a solution. It turns out I would like a switch in both locations too. How do y'all feel about this? Fiber -> UDM -> UDM is probably not what you need. You want something like this: Fiber -> UDM -> Switch-> everything else in your network. Edit: if you want to stay in the UniFi ecosystem, they sell switches. They have a small 5 port that has POE for power called the FLEX that might suit your needs. Alzabo fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Apr 25, 2020 |
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Apr 25, 2020 23:23
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headcase posted:Real sorry for the sudden bombardment of posts here. I think I'm honing in on a solution. It turns out I would like a switch in both locations too. How do y'all feel about this? You only need one UDM. After that, the finest thirty dollarest netgear workgroup switch will do for turning one port into many ports. If you plan on having a bunch of POE devices, then you can think about getting a POE switch but until then the provided-in-box POE injector for a nanoHD will do you just fine. Crossover cables are a thing of the past for modern hardware, thank god. Everything you're going to come across supports MDI-X which does that function for you. Buy a workgroup switch with several extra ports on it than what you need today, and don't forget your "input" port - a 5 port switch gets you 4 ports of devices. [THE CLOUD] -> ONT -> UDM -> {Devices, longass ethernet cable} -> Netgear switch -> {more devices} -> POE Injector -> nanoHD (or whichever UniFi AC device makes sense) is what I think you want. nanoHD https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DWW3P6K/ Netgear select-a-size: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AX8XHRQ/
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Apr 25, 2020 23:27
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headcase posted:Real sorry for the sudden bombardment of posts here. I think I'm honing in on a solution. It turns out I would like a switch in both locations too. How do y'all feel about this? I don't know if you could use 2 UDM on the same network, but you could do ATT fiber -> UDM in my battlestation/office in the front of the house where the fiber comes in. -> Straight run Ethernet cable to the back of my house -> A $29 Flex Mini and whatever access point you want plugged into the Flex Mini And then -> Ethernet from the Flex Mini to Console/OLEDTV -> my wife's office it about 20 feet away (wireless). You would be looking at a little over $500 if my math is correct for a 3 devices. $300 for the UDM, $179 for a Flex HD or a nanoHD access point, and $29 for the Flex Mini.
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Apr 25, 2020 23:37
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Burden posted:I don't know if you could use 2 UDM on the same network, but you could do Sounds perfect. I already have a cheap trendnet switch. I just liked the idea of the switch and AP being in the same fancy box/power supply. I get the message though. Sounds like converting the UDM into just a switch/AP isn't a great idea or may not work. I'll stick with the UDM/single nano, and maybe throw in a flex mini if it's in stock to make the $500 free shipping. It would be nice if they had a device that was a switch/ap, and could go both ways. Wifi -> multiple wired devices or ethernet -> wifi+switch headcase fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Apr 26, 2020 |
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Apr 25, 2020 23:45
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headcase posted:It would be nice if they had a device that was a switch/ap, and could go both ways. Wifi -> multiple wired devices or ethernet -> wifi+switch The market for that is basically 0. Most people want a router / ap combo (aka a udm). You're basically throwing away $100+ if you were to use a udm as a dumb switch + ap.
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Apr 26, 2020 00:53
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headcase posted:Sounds perfect. I already have a cheap trendnet switch. I just liked the idea of the switch and AP being in the same fancy box/power supply. You have to remember that by and large the market for this is SMB, with home users just being a relatively new addition as a target demo. SMB is going to be running ports wherever they need, and their APs are going to be mounted on ceilings or walls, so there's no real convenient way to use it as a switch.
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Apr 26, 2020 00:56
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headcase posted:Sorry, I bet this question is really boring for you guys, but I didn't see anything in the OP about mesh. Are you just wanting to offload the wireless and keep the routing on the att box? Honestly a full udm setup is overkill. I had att fiber for years and as long as you disable the wireless the gateway they give you isn’t terrible. I’d just get 1 unifi AP to start and add a second if you need to. I mean a full UDM setup is awesome, but sounds overkill for your needs. I used a AirPort Extreme (whatever the AC model was) for years to provide WiFi coverage at my old house (1700 sq ft) with att fiber and it worked great.
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Apr 26, 2020 00:58
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skipdogg posted:Are you just wanting to offload the wireless and keep the routing on the att box? Honestly a full udm setup is overkill. Yeah that thought crossed my mind. I don't really love the idea of having to manage router stuff in ATT's hardware. Currently I have an IP passthrough to my airport. The airport only serves about half the house. I guess it's the 1940s walls. My wife is having a terrible time on the other side of the house, which is what prompted this. Honestly 300 for a UDM seems pretty reasonable compared to what that airport cost at the time, and I'm going to need an extension either way. So it's either: * A consumer mesh (what i was originally thinking) (~$350) * Like you say, use the ATT router and a couple APs (~$350) * IP pass through to UDM + single AP ($474) I think I prefer the last one given the tradeoffs right? e: I'm going to take a closer look at the other meshes tomorrow. I'm sure they would be just fine as well, but I fear weird branding nonsense and bad/restrictive UIs also creepy serverside telemetry that reports home. Is that a thing in these devices? ee: did you guys know the Unifi IW AP has a 4 port switch built in? I am terminating this run into a wall socket that I installed anyway. The cardioid shape of the signal works perfectly for my space, and it is projecting directly into my living room. This is perfect. headcase fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Apr 26, 2020 |
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Apr 26, 2020 02:16
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Selling a Unifi USG-3P in SA Mart here - https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3921416
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Apr 27, 2020 15:43
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Warbird posted:That seems pretty interesting and I'm reading up on the matter (and getting a headache for my troubles). Can I just point the new network at eth0 and be good to go or will that conflict with the host machine which is also using that adapter? Yeah it's a pretty simple configuration. enp8s0 is my host network adapter so the macvlan configuration points to that as the "parent." I use Portainer so I followed this guide: https://www.portainer.io/2018/09/using-macvlan-portainer-io/ Tiny Timbs fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Apr 27, 2020 |
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Apr 27, 2020 23:19
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I'm the guy who had an inaccessible ER-X earlier in the thread. Got a new one, used DHCP settings, applied a couple of tweaks in the console, back in business. Completely devoid of excitement, like a good network should be.
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Apr 28, 2020 01:50
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