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mAlfunkti0n
May 19, 2004
Fallen Rib
That’s them! Looking at buying one of them nifty cameras. Thanks!

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Helen Highwater
Feb 19, 2014

And furthermore
Grimey Drawer
I bought one of the Arax 88 CM-MLUs and had them CLA my fleamarket Kiev 60. Would recommend without hesitation.

If you're buying one of the kits, ask for the titanium shutter upgrade (it was a free upgrade last I saw), add a couple of tripod bush adapters to the order (the 60 and 88 both have 3/8" tripod bushes as standard), and ask for him to prefit the Kiev mount collar with the adapter. This lets you use P6 glass as normal and also Kiev bayonet mount lenses with the adapter.

McMadCow
Jan 19, 2005

With our rifles and grenades and some help from God.
I made a picture of a tree.

Tree by Jason, on Flickr

Google Butt
Oct 4, 2005

Xenology is an unnatural mixture of science fiction and formal logic. At its core is a flawed assumption...

that an alien race would be psychologically human.

I like the tree and your picture of it

Blackhawk
Nov 15, 2004

McMadCow posted:

I made a picture of a tree.

Tree by Jason, on Flickr

Was that x-ray film? Just looking at the notch(?) on the left long edge.

McMadCow
Jan 19, 2005

With our rifles and grenades and some help from God.

Blackhawk posted:

Was that x-ray film? Just looking at the notch(?) on the left long edge.

Nope, it's darkroom paper. The notch thing is actually a leftover from the enlarger I use. It's a 5x7 enlarger modified to take 8x10. Something in the condenser leaves a blank space on the side.

Blackhawk
Nov 15, 2004

Karekare beach, about 45 mins west of Auckland. Velvia 50 4x5.



EDIT: The same beach but ~15 hours earlier. Provia 100 4x5.

Blackhawk fucked around with this message at 09:33 on Mar 1, 2020

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

You're doing god's work with that Horseman, Megabound. (That is what you're still using, isn't it?)



Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

SMERSH Mouth posted:

You're doing god's work with that Horseman, Megabound. (That is what you're still using, isn't it?)





Thanks man, yeah, still lugging that gear everywhere.

That second one is dope. Big mood from those oranges.

ogopogo
Jul 16, 2006
Remember: no matter where you go, there you are.
After years of shooting on my Pentax645, I picked up a Fuji GW690II to add to the MF collection. Luckily it arrived right before I had a weekend away on the Oregon coast.



ogopogo fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Mar 7, 2020

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Here's a diptych. I'm searching for a series to shoot and this might be a contender.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

I'm in general finding threading the cable release on the shutter really fiddly and it usually takes me multiple attempts to get it on.
Is this normal? Doesn't help when you're doing it at night with freezing fingers :).

Sauer
Sep 13, 2005

Socialize Everything!
Yeah cable releases are usually fiddly and it never really feels like they're screw in right.

real nap shit
Feb 2, 2008



SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

CodfishCartographer
Feb 23, 2010

Gadus Maprocephalus

Pillbug
What are some suggestions for a good 4x5 starter lens? Something good but not too terribly expensive. In 35mm terms I tend to shoot mostly 35mm and 50mm, but don't mind going out of that comfort zone.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

Just get a Fujinon 150mm.

Blackhawk
Nov 15, 2004

Fujinon 90mm for the wide end or 150mm for the narrow. I use a 135mm because I prefer ~40mm to 50mm.

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE
to backstop these guys: fujinon is stupid cheap for the quality, it's easily as good as nikkor or schneider or whatever

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Either a Nikkor 150/5.6 or 90/8 are good starter lenses.

real nap shit
Feb 2, 2008


alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013





Did my bit to get away from people...

cerious
Aug 18, 2010

:dukedog:


some e100 on 6x7

GreaseGunner
Dec 26, 2012

Just chillin'
I've come into possession of a really nice Conley Model XV and a dry plate holder. Looks like it was designed to shoot 4 1/4 x 6 1/2 though, so I don't know if I'm going to be able to use it all or get film to fit in. I'm just assuming right now but I know my 4x5 Polaroid holder wouldn't fit in so I know it's at least bigger than that. I'm just guessing the plate holder I have that fits is the above measurements. Has a Bausch and Lomb Compound shutter with a B&L Zeiss Tessar Series IIb lens.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

cerious posted:



some e100 on 6x7

Love the clouds on this..gives a sense of flying.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

:ohdear:: Can I ask a gear question here?

I have been curious about MF ever since opening this thread for the first time. What kinds of questions should I be asking myself to determine what MF system I might enjoy as a second camera (primary camera is a digital FF, I use manual focus 90+% of the time, and I frequently spend many minutes on just one subject)? Alternatively, since I already have one compatible lens, would a Hasselblad 500 be a decent choice for walking around and landscape shooting?

If the Hassy 500 is a decent choice, all I need is a camera body, a film back, film, a finder, and a lens, right? Any reason to pick the CW over the CX or the CM?

Pondex
Jul 8, 2014

theHUNGERian posted:

:ohdear:: Can I ask a gear question here?

I have been curious about MF ever since opening this thread for the first time. What kinds of questions should I be asking myself to determine what MF system I might enjoy as a second camera (primary camera is a digital FF, I use manual focus 90+% of the time, and I frequently spend many minutes on just one subject)? Alternatively, since I already have one compatible lens, would a Hasselblad 500 be a decent choice for walking around and landscape shooting?

If the Hassy 500 is a decent choice, all I need is a camera body, a film back, film, a finder, and a lens, right? Any reason to pick the CW over the CX or the CM?


Almost any MF-camera is going to be manual focus and a slower workflow. But it sounds like that suits your temperament.

If you can afford a Hasselblad it's an amazing camera. My 500CM is probably my favorite camera that I own.

You should consider how much money you'll want to spend upgrading down the road. Everything Hasselblad is more expensive. Something like a Pentacon Six is going to be much cheaper to get new lenses for. It's kind of bulky and heavy compared to the Hasselblad though (as most MF-slrs are).

Also, consider what format you like. 6x6, 6x7, 6x9 etc.

Blackhawk
Nov 15, 2004

theHUNGERian posted:

:ohdear:: Can I ask a gear question here?

I have been curious about MF ever since opening this thread for the first time. What kinds of questions should I be asking myself to determine what MF system I might enjoy as a second camera (primary camera is a digital FF, I use manual focus 90+% of the time, and I frequently spend many minutes on just one subject)? Alternatively, since I already have one compatible lens, would a Hasselblad 500 be a decent choice for walking around and landscape shooting?

If the Hassy 500 is a decent choice, all I need is a camera body, a film back, film, a finder, and a lens, right? Any reason to pick the CW over the CX or the CM?

Do you shoot or crop a lot in square format? I don't have an MF camera, just the 4x5, but it seems that for MF one of the biggest choices is the aspect ratio given that there are so many options to choose from. Personally I lean more towards panoramic formats than square, so I'd be looking more at a 6x9 if I were going to get an MF camera, even though you chew through film then.

CodfishCartographer
Feb 23, 2010

Gadus Maprocephalus

Pillbug
Also worth noting that 6x6 has some amazing cameras for cheap. Yashica Mats are like 200-300 for great quality that's relatively small and lightweight, if you're okay with a tlr.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

There's a number of things to consider. First for me was shutter system, leaf or focal plane. With leaf you gain flash-sync at all speeds, and no vibration from shutter slap but may loose some max shutter speed.

After that would be exposure size, with the Hassleblad I think you'd be limited to 6x6, which is a fun format that I really enjoy. The other major formats are 6x4.5, 6x6, 6x7 and 6x9 which will get you around 16, 12, 10 and 8 exposures per roll respectively. Some systems have multiple sized backs, some you're limited to one size.

After making those 2 decisions you'll have narrowed down the field considerable and can look at body format.
TLRs, those small rectangular guys with 2 lenses our front, shoot 6x6 and have leaf shutters, and depending on the age can be limited in shutter speeds. A common standout being the Mamiya C330, which tops out at 1/500th and has interchangeable lenses. Usually no built in light metre.

SLRs come in the Hassleblad box with accessories style and a the style you'll be most familiar with. They tend to be bulkier than TLRs but have a variety of film backs and viewfinders available. They also vary in features wildly, some with built in light metres, some with metres depending on accessories, with pretty much every format under the sun available to them. Common brands to look for are Hassleblad, Mamiya and Bronica. Kiev also exist, but with all Russian cameras every one you buy is a dice roll. I loved my Kiev 60 and I know Helen will go to bat for their Arax, which is a quality tested Kiev you can still buy today. AFAIK Hassleblads all use leaf shutters but I don't shoot them so I could be wrong.

After that you've got Rangefinders, usually a lot more portable and very capable but without the ability to switch lenses. Fuji, Paubinel and Mamiya are your go tos in that range and they also come in every format under the sun.

Lastly, and what I shoot most these days, are view cameras. Those dudes that you'll need to cart a blanket around to shoot with. There are dedicated medium format ones and if you want to get into using things like lens movements they're the way to go. You can also get medium format backs for large format view cameras. I use a Topcon Horseman VH and really enjoy it.

For the price of that Hassleblad body and kit you could have any of the above ready to shoot.

Megabound fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Apr 26, 2020

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.

theHUNGERian posted:

:ohdear:: Can I ask a gear question here?

I have been curious about MF ever since opening this thread for the first time. What kinds of questions should I be asking myself to determine what MF system I might enjoy as a second camera (primary camera is a digital FF, I use manual focus 90+% of the time, and I frequently spend many minutes on just one subject)? Alternatively, since I already have one compatible lens, would a Hasselblad 500 be a decent choice for walking around and landscape shooting?

If the Hassy 500 is a decent choice, all I need is a camera body, a film back, film, a finder, and a lens, right? Any reason to pick the CW over the CX or the CM?

Curious which lens - the 80mm 2.8?

Re: Megabound's post - most Hasselblad's use a leaf shutter in the lens but there is at least one pretty uncommon, fancy pants model with a titanium focal plane shutter. I went and looked at a secondhand one back in the day... and watched the seller put his finger straight through it :ohdear: Needless to say, I didn't buy it.

Haven't got much to add to Megabound's excellent post about body type, aspect ratio, etc. Square format is definitely a challenge but on the flipside it does provide a unique experience you don't usually get with digital cameras (plus plays well for the 'Gram).

You're correct on the equipment list, although you may or may not want an additional film back to switch in and out (such as between b&w and colour). It's not necessary, but a nice QoL thing to have for sure, and one of the chief advantages of a fully modular system like the Hasselblad. I've also got a spot meter but you can get away with using your phone or digital camera.

You'll also presumably need some way to get your images on to your computer (paying for scans really adds up), so add a negative scanner capable of 120 to the list. Doing your own B&W at home is not hard and doesn't require a full on darkroom, so you may also consider getting a changing bag, developing tank, and chemistry too.

IIRC there's really not much you're missing out on getting a C/M rather than the later models. Hasselblads can be had for pennies on the dollar compared to what they used to go for, but the system is definitely more expensive than say, Bronica, Pentax 6x7, etc. I don't know that there are really any "bad" choices among MF systems aside from getting a Russian one with issues (I went 0 for 1 with Kiev's, so it's definitely not a myth), but on the flip side Arax sells refurbished bodies that should be reliable, and the glass is an incredible bargain, even with today's prices. Even if you're not buying Russian, getting one with some kind of return policy or warranty isn't a bad idea as many of these things are pushing 50 years old. I had a Pentax 6x7 body I bought in Japan turn up DOA and the seller told me to pound sand.

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

Thank you for the input everybody.

I don't care about flash sync, but I do care about camera shake (though the camera will be on a tripod when it really matters). My understanding is that vibrations should already be at a minimum with a solid tripod and mirror lock up, so a leaf shutter won't add anything.(?) But this does not mean that I want to use a focal plane shutter, I just think a leaf shutter is not necessary.

I could get used to various formats I think, but I am not sure where the best tradeoff between size and exposures per roll is (being ignorant, I would aim for the middle and toss a coin between 6x6 and 6x7). I am not on 'Gram, so that is not a consideration. I think I would prefer an SLR over a TLR.

Doing a bit more reading, I would prefer an all mechanical camera.

Also, if I need a separate meter, will it work well during blue hour with telephoto lenses (the average light will be low, but perhaps I will be pointing the camera at a far-away mountain that is already in sunlight)? A TTL meter would be super handy. And speaking of low light, I would need a system that can be accurately focused at infinity in relative darkness (blue hour), preferably by having lenses that have an accurate hard stop at infinity or at least accurate markings on the lens or the bellows of the camera.

Ethics_Gradient posted:

Curious which lens - the 80mm 2.8?

A Hasselblad CF 250 mm f/5.6 Superachromat. I started this hobby doing astrophotography, and CA was the first thing I developed an eye for. In addition I wanted an outstanding manual focus experience (thus ruling out focus-by-wire lenses) and more reach than my existing 180 mm. And since the hop to MF has been on my mind for a while, I figured I should get a lens that would be compatible with MF (although the focal length would be rarely used).

If I didn't want to develop my own film (at least initially), I would just have to pay for negatives, right? Is that cost always the same, or will I need a higher quality negatives if I want to make larger (30"x20") prints? Or is that determined by the quality of my scanner?

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

From that criteria my choice would be a Mamiya RB67. It's the fully mechanical version of the RZ which uses electronic leaf shutters, and has a metered prism available for it if you're not shooting waist level.

67 is good and would be my choice because you can always crop down to 66 if you want to. I've not met a medium format camera with inaccurate Infinity stops.

I've had no issue using a separate meter during the blue hour, I have an old Minolta Auto Meter III and it's been very reliable.

Negative quality isn't a thing, with colour it's a standardised process called C41 with specific times and temperatures, black and white allows for artistic expression in development with chemical choice, agitation technique, dilution and timings. Most places will charge more for B&W development and use a middle of the road process that'll produce good results.

Print quality and size is all off the back of scan quality. I'm not very well versed in printing but I recently got my own stuff done up at 20" X 30" (50 X 70cm) off the back of my own scans using a mid-range scanner, an Epson V600, and was very happy with the output.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Megabound posted:

From that criteria my choice would be a Mamiya RB67. It's the fully mechanical version of the RZ which uses electronic leaf shutters, and has a metered prism available for it if you're not shooting waist level.

67 is good and would be my choice because you can always crop down to 66 if you want to. If someone held a gun to my head and said I could only shoot one size for the rest of my life it'd be 67.

I've not met a medium format camera with inaccurate Infinity stops, other than when I set my own stops for a new lens on mine.

I've had no issue using a separate meter during the blue hour, I have an old Minolta Auto Meter III and it's been very reliable.

Negative quality isn't a thing, with colour it's a standardised process called C41 with specific times and temperatures, black and white allows for artistic expression in development with chemical choice, agitation technique, dilution and timings. Most places will charge more for B&W development and use a middle of the road process that'll produce good results.

Print quality and size is all off the back of scan quality. I'm not very well versed in printing but I recently got my own stuff done up at 20" X 30" (50 X 70cm) off the back of my own scans using a mid-range scanner, an Epson V600, and was very happy with the output.


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theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

Megabound posted:

From that criteria my choice would be a Mamiya RB67. It's the fully mechanical version of the RZ which uses electronic leaf shutters, and has a metered prism available for it if you're not shooting waist level.

67 is good and would be my choice because you can always crop down to 66 if you want to. I've not met a medium format camera with inaccurate Infinity stops.

I've had no issue using a separate meter during the blue hour, I have an old Minolta Auto Meter III and it's been very reliable.

Negative quality isn't a thing, with colour it's a standardised process called C41 with specific times and temperatures, black and white allows for artistic expression in development with chemical choice, agitation technique, dilution and timings. Most places will charge more for B&W development and use a middle of the road process that'll produce good results.

Print quality and size is all off the back of scan quality. I'm not very well versed in printing but I recently got my own stuff done up at 20" X 30" (50 X 70cm) off the back of my own scans using a mid-range scanner, an Epson V600, and was very happy with the output.



Awesome, thanks. I just finished watching a few videos about the Mamiya and it does look very attractive. I'll watch/read a little more before I make up my mind.

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