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daslog posted:I would bring it by the dealer. Can't hurt! Get it on record as an issue while it’s still under warranty, even if they can’t track it down before you drive out from under coverage it’s much easier to get it warranty repaired if there’s documentation in it earlier.
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Apr 28, 2020 07:44
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| # ? May 25, 2024 12:27 |
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Midjack posted:Get it on record as an issue while it’s still under warranty, even if they can’t track it down before you drive out from under coverage it’s much easier to get it warranty repaired if there’s documentation in it earlier. This was my thinking. With the popped spot weld issue on my '09, the warranty extension for it was a joke. By the time they extended the warranty for that specific issue, the '09s were already out of the extension. It was a game to reimburse people who had brought their car in and either had it repaired or documented. If you said "eh, the clutch pedal is squeaking a little, that doesn't bother me" only to find out later that the cause is your firewall flexing, you'll eventually have your pedals completely separate from it, and you have to disassemble the entire dash to fix properly, then the warranty extension didn't help.
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Apr 28, 2020 15:36
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My '17 WRX will occasionally dip at idle as well.  It's what makes a Subaru a Subaru
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Apr 28, 2020 15:48
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net work error posted:My '17 WRX will occasionally dip at idle as well. The new automatics are programmed to shut off instead of idle and then restart when you hit the gas.
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Apr 28, 2020 16:29
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Mr. Subaru, are you stupid?
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Apr 28, 2020 22:55
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ww = lol
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Apr 28, 2020 23:20
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BlackMK4 posted:ww = lol I was wondering....
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Apr 28, 2020 23:20
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I was advised by Subaru that this belt was an imminent failure waiting to happen.
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Apr 28, 2020 23:45
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I changed the plugs and belt on my mom's forester at like 80k miles and was surprised how good they all looked. I figured it was all barely hanging on.
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Apr 29, 2020 00:30
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I think they were asking if they're getting ripped off?
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Apr 29, 2020 00:35
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Friend just did his timing belt on his forester.  Told him to go buy some lotto tickets. Also, changed a thermostat on a 2015 forester and that was a lot more PIA than it needed to be, the exhaust manifold on the newer motors is directly below the water pump outlet (the thermostat lays flat in these and the spout off of the bottom) and there's no room for a ratchet so you get to use a wrench and do it one tiny movement at a time. And it'll dump coolant all over the exhaust so you get a nice smoke show once it starts boiling off after finishing.
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Apr 29, 2020 04:00
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OK now THAT is an imminent failure waiting to happen.
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Apr 29, 2020 06:56
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I finally got around to putting a cobb double adjustable short shifter in my 2011 WRX and holy poo poo I don't know why I didn't do this sooner. Around Christmas I put a URD short shifter in my Tacoma, and now that the weather's nice I've been driving the WRX more and felt that the shifter felt like the Tacoma pre-URD so I bit the bullet. Only peeve so far is that for the shortest throws, the inner shifter boot pushes against the shifter in 2nd and 4th because the screws to tighten everything up are on the back side of the shifter when they could easily be around front. Oh, and that there's now an excess of stock shifter boot material because the Cobb setup is THAT much shorter. #firstworld problems. I left the console/shifter boot off while test- driving so I could make adjustments on the fly, and the increase in turbo/gear noise was quite nice.
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Apr 29, 2020 08:57
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Bajaha posted:Friend just did his timing belt on his forester. Holy poo poo that belt. I just did the belt on an 03 with 283k that had a faded Subaru logo on it figuring it was original, maybe not
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Apr 30, 2020 16:05
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Maybe something only Jamal can answer... if even he can. 2003 Outback 2.5. Trying to recharge the AC. It's doing what my old Saturn with a continuously variable displacement compressor did - hitting a fairly low pressure, keeps sucking down refrigerant, but pressures never go above 25 low side/125 high side. It's warm enough that I was expecting 35-40 low, 150+ high.... if it's not a variable displacement compressor, anyway.  Did these have a CVC, or regular compressor? It's no longer short cycling, but I'm afraid I may have overcharged it. The AC is now ice. loving. cold. But the compressor runs nonstop until I hold it at a moderate RPM, then it starts cutting in and out (not frequently - before, it was cycling on for 2 seconds, off for 10, even at idle). FWIW, the low side is dropping below 20 PSI when held at ~2k for a bit. The price of a reman compressor on Rockauto has me thinking CVC, they're stupid expensive (well above $300 for no-name, lovely Seasons is pushing $350). tl;dr trying to figure out if I need to go recover some refrigerant. The compressor also developed a nice little neon green oily spot on top after this. The AC is now ice cold, and the idle doesn't jump to ~1100 when the compressor cycles on anymore (it blips slightly and settles right back to 750 like you'd expect), but once it gets hotter, if it's a CVC, I know it'll be pissed off about any extra refrigerant. If it's indeed a CVC, I'll vacuum it and charge it by weight. Looks like it's a DKV14G. Bajaha posted:Friend just did his timing belt on his forester.  Friend's 2003 WRX shredded the alternator belt recently. His alternator had been literally screaming for years (not from the belt slipping - horrible bearing screaming), he said he "found the belt" at the bottom of the engine bay, and he figured the alternator had finally locked up. I found a single rib of the belt once I got there to swap the alternator. It was also Easter when I went to swap a new alternator in for him (well, junkyard OEM alternator... personally I'd much rather use a used OEM alternator or starter vs parts store, he felt the same way, he ordered one from LKQ). Glad I found a parts store still open that day, I grabbed a belt on the way just to be safe. The alternator no longer screams, at least - it sounds like a normal WRX with an exhaust, if you can ignore the smoke, soot, and backfires (the fucker is throwing over 20 codes, I've never seen a car throw so many codes and still drive as well as it does). I keep telling him his timing belt isn't far behind, but at this point, my Brokeback is in better shape in every way, except he has 3 pedals and a (working, even!) turbo. Smokes like a motherfucker (not from the turbo, I'd guess valve guides since it's only after it's been sitting or when accelerating from a stop), hasn't been able to pass smog in 5 years... I just need to decide what to do with his old alternator. I kept it thinking I could use the diode pack in mine (since my lights flicker at idle), but his is a 75A, mine is 90A, so... nope. Again. I keep telling him his timing belt isn't far behind. The AC belt didn't look any better. And gently caress that stupid nut/bracket on the backside of the alternator, had to fish it out from the depths of the intake manifold.  I did mention I've been telling him for several years that he needs to get off his rear end and do the timing belt, right?Oh, the old alternator spins easily, it's just a bit rough. Unless it got really hard to turn once it got hot (which is certainly possible with dying bearings), I have just a couple of doubts that it had anything to do with that belt letting go. The remains I found were... uh... I don't think I could lace up a shoe with the few strings of the belt that were left. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Apr 30, 2020 |
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Apr 30, 2020 19:24
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You get good at digging out that little bolt holding bracket after awhile. Especially when someone new comes over to help and starts by de-tensioning your belts for you...
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May 1, 2020 05:14
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Brokeback AC is back to short cycling already.  It's still cold...ish. I have a feeling I'm gonna be grabbing a junkyard compressor. And a new receiver/dryer if it's not of the condenser...
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May 1, 2020 15:36
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STR posted:Brokeback AC is back to short cycling already. Have you already pulled the shims out? Our Forester was doing that and I fixed it by pulling out the clutch shims. It wasn't super hard, but I can't recall you talking about doing that yet.
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May 1, 2020 20:25
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Question about the '99 EJ22 with the two air filters (IIRC they transitioned styles from one in '98 to another in '00, and the '99s had two for some reason). Is there any reason not to pull the second filter (the one behind the engine) and not replace it if it's finally gotten dirty? Just seems kind of pointless to have two.
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May 2, 2020 01:48
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Dielectric posted:Have you already pulled the shims out? Our Forester was doing that and I fixed it by pulling out the clutch shims. It wasn't super hard, but I can't recall you talking about doing that yet. The clutch engages fine, no issue there. The pressures are low as hell though, it's back to a touch under 20 psi on the low side when it first engages, slowly dropping to 15 before it cuts back out (and I've confirmed the clutch stops receiving power when it cuts out). High side is barely 125. When I slammed a can and a half into it yesterday, the low side got a little above 25, high side was hitting 150ish, and it wasn't cycling at all. It just stayed on. Oil and dye appeared on the back plate of the compressor after charging it, so the compressor itself is definitely leaking. I'm surprised it's as cold as it is. I might try slamming a junkyard one in.. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:36 on May 2, 2020 |
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May 2, 2020 13:33
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It seems like you're zeroing in on the issue, but just in case, share everything you said here there. Motronic has seen everything a million times. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3888018&pagenumber=1&perpage=40
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May 2, 2020 14:11
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Question about the '99 EJ22 with the two air filters (IIRC they transitioned styles from one in '98 to another in '00, and the '99s had two for some reason). Is there any reason not to pull the second filter (the one behind the engine) and not replace it if it's finally gotten dirty? Just seems kind of pointless to have two. It’s a weird hack job for some kind of model transition. Absolutely replace the second filter if it’s dirty.
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May 2, 2020 15:31
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Crossposting from the what I did to my ride thread. It was a bit touch and go for a moment but I finally did it.    I'll probably get around to installing the replacement tomorrow. Maybe. This took a lot out of me trying to wrench through all that rust and in somewhat tight clearances. Two of the cover bolts were a complete pain in the rear end because the exhaust was covering them and I ended up partially removing the exhaust to get at them with the breaker bar. I left the transaxle end of the shaft in place since it's trivial to remove at this point and I didn't want to leave that part of the transaxle exposed to the weather while I rest before installing the replacement.
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May 3, 2020 02:44
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Double post but it's done. After sitting for 6 1/2 weeks being unable to safely move under its own power, my Forester is driveable again.   I haven't tallied up the cost of the shaft and tools were nor do I know how much this would have costed to have the car towed and repaired so I can't do a price comparison. Despite needing to buy all my tools brand new including sockets, ratchets, wrenches, 3 ton floor jack, and jack stands, doing this myself is still the better choice regardless of pricing since the tools are all mine to use again and the experience is certainly worth while. That said, I probably need to work on my upper body strength because gently caress am I sore. And in case some were skeptical, this is the shifter in neutral.   EDIT: Between being undriveable and the quarantine, I'm concerned about the engine sitting still for this long. Is there anything I need to take care when starting it up and driving it? Then again, I think the PO had this car sitting still for almost as long before I bought it and drove it 170 miles home and nothing all that special was done besides letting it idle for several minutes to get the battery charged up. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 03:53 on May 4, 2020 |
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May 3, 2020 20:38
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Because something is wrong with me, I bought a '93 Legacy 25th Anniversary off Craigslist this weekend. After I cleared the ECU, the only code that still pops up is the canister purge solenoid. (It also stumbles a bit and idles pretty high.) So I figure I actually have to replace it. Problem is that it seems unusually hard to find a new one for less than like $75 (and the most common price seems to start at about $110 and work up from there), but it seems like most of the issue stems from just having the mounting tab on the opposite side from later (much cheaper) models. Anyone know how I could go about finding a new replacement that doesn't cost an arm and a leg?
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May 4, 2020 22:42
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rickiep00h posted:Because something is wrong with me, I bought a '93 Legacy 25th Anniversary off Craigslist this weekend. After I cleared the ECU, the only code that still pops up is the canister purge solenoid. (It also stumbles a bit and idles pretty high.) So I figure I actually have to replace it. Buy the cheap one and fabricobble a bracket adapter?
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May 5, 2020 15:16
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Did you check rockauto.com?
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May 5, 2020 17:47
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toplitzin posted:Buy the cheap one and fabricobble a bracket adapter? Probably gonna do this, yeah. Charles posted:Did you check rockauto.com? Nope, but it appears to be the same issue as other places. 's all good. It's not like there's THAT much difference in what those engines need in terms of emissions gear.
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May 5, 2020 18:11
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Price check on some work I had quoted. 2017 Forester with 39,700 miles on it, just had a fresh set of tires put on and the shop called saying my rear pads were down to 2 mm. Quoted $387.50 to replace, this includes: "rear brakes with rotors $250, 1.1 hr labor @ $125". First - should I do all four corners if I'm getting a brake job done? Second - those parts seem HIGH, am I crazy?
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May 6, 2020 22:39
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If just the rear brakes are worn, no reason to also do the fronts, unless they're close. Depends if you'd rather pay a double bill now, or pay the same bill again later. And I wouldn't call that excessively unreasonable. I bill about that for brake labor as a shadetree, and as long as they're using good quality rotors and pads, that's not awful for "parts here right now". The Centric coated rotors I'd normally use are $28/each at Rockauto, and the ceramic pads are another $25. Usually ends up being 3-4 days and another $15-20 in shipping. Getting brake parts in hand same day is usually significantly more expensive, especially if I want decent parts.
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May 7, 2020 03:05
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Rock auto brake parts are relatively inexpensive and brakes are a fairly easy job assuming you have the time and tools (19mm, 17mm, 14mm, bfh if you're in the rust belt, torque wrench with a range that'll do ~60ft lb and ~20ft lb, and your usual jack and stands) Just did all 4 corners on a 2015 Forester with raybestos coated rotors and Wagner oex pads for $330 Canadian shipped from rock auto, and about $100 of that was cross border shipping for the heavy parts. Rears were down a lot but fronts still had plenty of pad left on mine. I figure the traction control is what's aggressively eating away at the rears. I measured my rotors and they seemed to be closer to the service interval so I ended up doing all 4 anyway as a might as well. E: but yeah, that quote seems reasonable for labor and decent parts 'right now' Bajaha fucked around with this message at 05:39 on May 7, 2020 |
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May 7, 2020 05:37
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Thanks to Jamal and Partsgeek (since Rockauto won't deliver to 90% of Colorado) I have a mountain of parts, and I'm starting to wonder what I just got myself into. Time to gather up all my tools and figure out a plan of attack, probably doing the rear suspension bushings first, then the front bushings, then while the control arm and ball joints are disconnected, the struts. Need to pick up a spring compressor first, though, and a 24mm and 26mm socket, maybe a pass-through ratchet since the lower control arm bushings are so close to the body of the car. I hit the lateral link bolts with a bunch of PB blaster yesterday, will probably do it again before I try to get them out. Actually, I might do that immediately before driving to get the tools, maybe the vibration will help it sneak down into the cracks.
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May 7, 2020 20:03
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Thanks to Jamal and Partsgeek (since Rockauto won't deliver to 90% of Colorado) I have a mountain of parts, and I'm starting to wonder what I just got myself into. Time to gather up all my tools and figure out a plan of attack, probably doing the rear suspension bushings first, then the front bushings, then while the control arm and ball joints are disconnected, the struts. Need to pick up a spring compressor first, though, and a 24mm and 26mm socket, maybe a pass-through ratchet since the lower control arm bushings are so close to the body of the car. On one of my GCs the Lateral Links came loose after a week of 50/50 ATF. On the second GC, one game loose and the other had to be cut out. Good luck!
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May 7, 2020 22:07
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So what I drive was built by Subaru, but isn't badged as one. It also neither has AWD nor a turbocharger. May I post in here too? 
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May 7, 2020 23:33
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An 86? You're an FA owner and the chassis is 💯 Subaru as covered by Kapt Ballistik and Cat Interceptor.
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May 7, 2020 23:37
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Yep. Picked up a new 86 courtesy of plague financing.
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May 7, 2020 23:41
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daslog posted:On one of my GCs the Lateral Links came loose after a week of 50/50 ATF. On the second GC, one game loose and the other had to be cut out. Good luck! On the bright side AFAIK this has always been a CO car, and we don't get too much rust. I'm going to start working on it on Saturday, once I get done with the stuff I need to get out and do roughly once a week. It's definitely filthy, though. A breaker bar and deadlift form will likely be needed.
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May 8, 2020 01:18
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Minto Took posted:Yep. Picked up a new 86 courtesy of plague financing. Congrats on your new rebodied Subaru Crosstrek! (Yeah thats not a joke. That's the actual platform the 86/BRZ are made from)
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May 8, 2020 01:33
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I wouldn't even care if someone with a 9-2X Aero posted in here, honestly. The Wicked Big Meet even allows them to race in the Subaru only autocross.
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May 8, 2020 01:48
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Two broken Subarus and who knows how many bicycles. Honestly, just trolling CT at this point.   WRX isn't boosting at all, was throwing over 20 codes at one point, CEL shut off when I was pulling it into the garage after sitting for a week (CEL has been on for over 5 years, so that's a huge WTF). CT hates Outbacks, my Outback is 2 wheels into the grave. That WRX is all 4 in the grave though, I'm loving shocked it even moves at this point. Definitely no boost, it's almost as slow as my Brokeback, it's throwing basically every code possible while it can still run. WRX is roommate's. He's out of town. I "pulled it into the garage" around the block, hammered it up to about 5k, and it's basically like driving a 5 speed version of my Outback. It's slow as hell, it doesn't make whooshy noises, it just has a sexy sounding exhaust and 3 pedals. It's on the original timing belt at 173k though, so you can imagine the level of care it (hasn't) seen... The Outback just pisses ATF everywhere, and the AC won't hold a real charge (it'll get "cool...ish". soon as you top it off oil starts bubbling out of the compressor). But it runs, and the timing belt has actually been changed. It has severe DTs at highway speeds, but everything on it, even the heated mirrors, works.
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May 8, 2020 02:05
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