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Electric Hobo posted:I finally painted Magore's Fiends! A very quick paintjob, just to cross them off my list.
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Apr 29, 2020 04:37
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These are probably the last minis I painted and the only painted ones I have left; I guess I neglected to keep any fantasy around          such long time ago thinking back on it 
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Apr 29, 2020 05:29
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Stan Taylor posted:Hey I finished painting my first dude just now! Gonna re read some tips and focus up more on my next two but it feels nice to have one under my belt!
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Apr 29, 2020 12:22
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I have a question. I'm looking for some generic miniatures to test paint schemes on, as I don't really want to strip anything I currently have. No real hard requirements, but ideally they'd be sci-fi or sci-fi adjacent and ~28mm, and easily ordered in the US.
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Apr 29, 2020 12:44
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Iron Crowned posted:I have a question. Comedy option: Green army men.
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Apr 29, 2020 12:47
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You can find bulk heroclix cheap and just prime over the existing job. (The detail is very poor though. )
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Apr 29, 2020 12:50
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rats rats rats
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Apr 29, 2020 13:06
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Xpost from AOS thread. Not super proud of these but loving glad they are done .Geisladisk posted:Just remember that anything you paint will look better than gray plastic, and it is extremely difficult to paint an army that doesn't look good so long as the color scheme is coherent and everything in the army is painted. Everyone's first minis aren't great, but everyone can paint good minis, even if a lot of us won't ever paint great minis.
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Apr 29, 2020 13:25
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Months ago somebody posted I think in this thread a link to a page that described how to paint various skin tones, broken down by color (Caucasian, mediteranean, Pacific, African, etc) but for the life of me I can't find this anywhere. Does anybody have a good page for this? Ideally not a video, an article I can save (this time) and go back to would be best!
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Apr 29, 2020 13:25
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Furism posted:Months ago somebody posted I think in this thread a link to a page that described how to paint various skin tones, broken down by color (Caucasian, mediteranean, Pacific, African, etc) but for the life of me I can't find this anywhere. Does anybody have a good page for this? Ideally not a video, an article I can save (this time) and go back to would be best! Could've it been the goonhammer article about how to pain skin perhaps? https://www.goonhammer.com/how-to-paint-everything-human-skin/
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Apr 29, 2020 13:33
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I wanted to get some sweet chaos warriors or something to work on but they were out of stock And I guess going to round bases has let them cut loose on skaven models; wish I had kept some characters or assassins around
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Apr 29, 2020 14:02
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Cooked Auto posted:Could've it been the goonhammer article about how to pain skin perhaps? No but this is freaking perfect, thanks!
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Apr 29, 2020 14:49
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Geisladisk posted:Xpost from AOS thread. Not super proud of these but loving glad they are done . They look great, some darn good edge highlighting you've got on them.
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Apr 29, 2020 15:08
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Winklebottom posted:rats rats rats Those are some nice white rats.
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Apr 29, 2020 15:17
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Winklebottom posted:rats rats rats Can you go over your process on these? I've painted and stripped each one of these models at least twice and I've never been happy with the results.
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Apr 29, 2020 15:49
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Iron Crowned posted:I have a question. Chaos cultists, and the easy build Primaris reivers, intercessors, plage marines and poxwalkers are all like $10-15 each, my avatar brother.
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Apr 29, 2020 15:50
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grassy gnoll posted:Can you go over your process on these? I've painted and stripped each one of these models at least twice and I've never been happy with the results. Sure! The skin is AP Skeleton Bone base -> AP Light Tone wash -> GW Pallid Wych Flesh layer -> Glaze with AP Matt White. Then I wash the face, hands, feet and tail with 1:1 mix of AP Red Tone and AP Quickshade Wash Mixing Medium until i like how it looks, usually about 2-3 layers. Metal, cloth and leather is just AP Gun Metal/GW Mephiston Red/GW Mournfang Brown washed with AP Strong Tone and highlighted with AP Plate Mail Metal/AP Pure Red/GW Skrag Brown. Then the cloth/leather gets a fine highlight of GW Firedragon Bright/GW Deathclaw Brown. The weapons are AP Angel Green with progressively finer highlights of GW Warpstone Glow -> AP Jungle Green -> GW Yriel Yellow.
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Apr 29, 2020 16:12
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Cooked Auto posted:Could've it been the goonhammer article about how to pain skin perhaps? This is good content!
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Apr 29, 2020 17:29
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I always remember Skaven being "fun" to paint because yeah they have armor but they're also fleshy/hairy things and that always feels the hardest to get right I wonder if I have any photos of my old Skaven stuff around
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Apr 29, 2020 17:35
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Werix posted:Chaos cultists, and the easy build Primaris reivers, intercessors, plage marines and poxwalkers are all like $10-15 each, my avatar brother. Yeah, I was just figuring with retail shut down locally, I could order something I wouldn't normally just hop down the street and pick up  EDIT: IT also looks like everything is out of stock 
Iron Crowned fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Apr 29, 2020 |
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Apr 29, 2020 17:36
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Currently working on a Tomb King as a Necron Lord.    He's very small compared to his dad 
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Apr 29, 2020 18:02
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Furism posted:Months ago somebody posted I think in this thread a link to a page that described how to paint various skin tones, broken down by color (Caucasian, mediteranean, Pacific, African, etc) but for the life of me I can't find this anywhere. Does anybody have a good page for this? Ideally not a video, an article I can save (this time) and go back to would be best! http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/1310-ethnic-skintones
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Apr 29, 2020 18:36
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Along with the minis and the paints i also bought a bunch of brushes, namely GW's Layer, Base and Dry S and M, as well as Army Painter Insane Detail. I have mostly used the S and M Layer and Base, and have painted in total about 1 space marine (in terms of paint area i have applied) and all 4 of the brushes already looks like poo poo. LIke they all have bad hair days. Sure, both the S ones, that came with one of those plastic sleeves, were kinda bad out of the box as they had gotten a few hairs pinched when the sleeve was put on at the factory, but i kinda expected the brushes to last longer than this?
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Apr 29, 2020 18:37
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Ineptitude posted:Along with the minis and the paints i also bought a bunch of brushes, namely GW's Layer, Base and Dry S and M, as well as Army Painter Insane Detail. All brushes have a limited lifespan, then they get downgraded to drybrushes, then they get downgraded to applying PVA or textures to bases. But they should definitely last longer than that. If I had to guess there is paint down at the ferrule end (not the tip, the other end) which has dried so the bristles are splaying out. Make sure you are washing the paint out of them thoroughly and regularly while you are using them, and when you are wiping them give them... I'm going to say a spin? To try and pull the bristles back into a point along your paper towel. If they are getting J tips, I dont know what causes that (and its how my brushes tend to go in the end). I should probably find out. I dont buy expensive brushes. Most of mine are bought off wish, the rest from random craft stores, apart from a few army painter brushes. So I have no particular fear of ruining them. So what I did when I had a few brushes that had splayed out is I dipped the bristles in denatured alchohol (methylated spirits). Then I wiped them on a kitchen towel. A whole mess of paint came off, repeat as necessary, and then I could get most of them to go back into a point again. I rinsed them with water afterwards obviously. I make no guarantees this will work, it may do irreparable damage to expensive natural hair brushes or melt plastic bristles or whatever. But it did work for a couple of my brushes (army painter highlight brushes and a cheaper GW starter brush I got when someone gifted me the first issue of that partwork magazine they did), and its worth trying if your brushes are already at a stage when you are considering chucking them. Someone may have a kinder solution, with like brush conditioner or something, but a bar of that would cost more than most of my brushes and I already had the meths.
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Apr 29, 2020 19:02
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I only really use two brushes (Windsor & Newton Series 7 1 and 0) aside from a drybrush and I've had good results keeping them in nice condition using The Masters Brush Cleaner soap.
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Apr 29, 2020 19:06
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Ineptitude posted:Along with the minis and the paints i also bought a bunch of brushes, namely GW's Layer, Base and Dry S and M, as well as Army Painter Insane Detail. Let me ask some questions. How often are you rinsing your brushes? How far up the bristles are you getting paint? How are you applying the paint to the models, pushing, pulling, jabbing? When you switch brushes where does the previous one go, laid down or left in the rinse cup? Winklebottom posted:I only really use two brushes (Windsor & Newton Series 7 1 and 0) aside from a drybrush and I've had good results keeping them in nice condition using The Masters Brush Cleaner soap. Can agree this stuff is the big time.
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Apr 29, 2020 19:13
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It really is, been using it frequently to keep the tips of my brushes whenever I'm done painting. I almost need to get a new one soon because mine is edging ever closer to running out. I think the worst my recent brush purchase has done is losing the tip after lying unused for a while and going dry but that's easily fixed with a quick dip and twist.
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Apr 29, 2020 19:46
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SiKboy posted:If I had to guess there is paint down at the ferrule end (not the tip, the other end) which has dried so the bristles are splaying out. Make sure you are washing the paint out of them thoroughly and regularly while you are using them, and when you are wiping them give them... I'm going to say a spin? To try and pull the bristles back into a point along your paper towel. If they are getting J tips, I dont know what causes that (and its how my brushes tend to go in the end). I should probably find out. This is hopefully it, i had a case of paint reaching the ferrule. Also curious about the J-tip, my shade brush has a J-tip somehow, literally barely used it. Cat Face Joe posted:Let me ask some questions. Cat Face Joe posted:How often are you rinsing your brushes? Cat Face Joe posted:How far up the bristles are you getting paint? Cat Face Joe posted:How are you applying the paint to the models, pushing, pulling, jabbing? A few cases of stabbing Cat Face Joe posted:When you switch brushes where does the previous one go, laid down or left in the rinse cup?
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Apr 29, 2020 19:52
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I have nothing to add for most of this conversation except to also endorse a decent sable brush and Master's soap, butSiKboy posted:If they are getting J tips, I dont know what causes that (and its how my brushes tend to go in the end). I should probably find out. This particular thing is just something synthetic brushes do as they wear out. I treat it like a sign I need to buy more cheap brushes and throw this one on the utility brush pile.
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Apr 29, 2020 20:03
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Ineptitude posted:Rinsing in water when changing color in the same paint session, rinse thoroughly, wipe/rub on paper, rinse again, when done with a paint session I'd advise rinsing and wiping every time you change colour, not just at the end. grassy gnoll posted:I have nothing to add for most of this conversation except to also endorse a decent sable brush and Master's soap, but Good to know, I assumed it was something I was doing myself! Theres one particular brush that develped a J tip incredibly quickly that I used for about 3 months because the very tip of the J was actually really useful for fine lines, but generally I downgrade them when it happens.
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Apr 29, 2020 20:22
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This is another good resource! Thank you for sharing.
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Apr 29, 2020 20:26
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Ineptitude posted:This is hopefully it, i had a case of paint reaching the ferrule. You should be rinsing it in water every few minutes, even with the same color.
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Apr 29, 2020 21:27
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and just to mix things up granted, its not like its a big departure from what I already have sitting around but its something a little different
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Apr 29, 2020 22:16
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Ugh, I'm running my head against the wall with Vallejo washes. I had bad luck with them before, they absolutely cannot be used like GW or AP washes, they leave a dirty-looking finish on surfaces, and worst of all they have this tendency to dry white/cloudy/hazy in recesses where washes obviously tend to collect. I really should just cut my losses and stop trying, just save them for general grime and effects, but I keep convincing myself that I paid money for the set and that I can make them work somehow. See the face and right hand on this test model. I was trying out different mixes of washes to maybe make skin look slightly unhealthy and diseased, but look how it has dried to gray, almost white on the face, and completely white on the hand. I used 1:1:1 umber/blue/green shade on the face and 1:1 blue/green shade on the hand, all of which are obviously quite dark, not grayish white. I shook and rolled and wiggled about these washes for like 10 minutes each, to make sure everything in the bottles was evenly distributed, to no avail. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Apr 29, 2020 |
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Apr 29, 2020 22:54
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Ineptitude posted:This is hopefully it, i had a case of paint reaching the ferrule. Agreeing with Booley, I rinse my brush pretty much every time I go back to the pallet. You might have paint in the ferrule. When this happens I use the previously mentioned Masters brush soap and wash the poo poo out of it. It's surprising how much color comes out of a brush you thought was clean. I know you've already spent a lot on brushes and this is one more thing but it's definitely worth it in the long term.
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Apr 29, 2020 23:10
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KozmoNaut posted:Ugh, I'm running my head against the wall with Vallejo washes. I had bad luck with them before, they absolutely cannot be used like GW or AP washes, they leave a dirty-looking finish on surfaces, and worst of all they have this tendency to dry white/cloudy/hazy in recesses where washes obviously tend to collect. I don't have a solution for you but wanted to let you know that three of the four Vallejo washes I have act like this. I've had AP do this too. Never had this problem with GW.
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Apr 29, 2020 23:13
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Geisladisk posted:Xpost from AOS thread. Not super proud of these but loving glad they are done . I'm literally having the same issue as you right now, I got some base colour on and i've all but given up for now until i have a couple full days, per model, to sit down and actually paint them. How the gently caress are you supposed to get around the reins and poo poo to get into the other bits???? the little dudes are broken up perfectly into body/head/shield and it makes it real easy
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Apr 29, 2020 23:25
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TURGID TOMFOOLERY posted:This is another good resource! Thank you for sharing. Yes! That's the article I was thinking about, thanks!
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Apr 30, 2020 08:11
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Im going to try washing between every palette visit, see if that helps. The acrylic paint dries surprisingly fast, even with how much i water it down. Our humidity here is also very low which probably doesnt help. I have noticed paint drying on the brush while i am painting with it. I dont have that Master soap available. I tried regular handsoap which gave unimpressive results. Can i use brush cleaner? Its not as hard as white spirit but its quite a lot more heavy duty than soap.
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Apr 30, 2020 08:12
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| # ? May 10, 2024 00:44 |
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KozmoNaut posted:Ugh, I'm running my head against the wall with Vallejo washes. I had bad luck with them before, they absolutely cannot be used like GW or AP washes, they leave a dirty-looking finish on surfaces, and worst of all they have this tendency to dry white/cloudy/hazy in recesses where washes obviously tend to collect. Have you tried adding a tiny drop of glaze medium to the wash? I know I shill that poo poo every chance I get, but one of its many uses is helping in washes - it makes them dry cleaner and smoother. No idea if it's gonna help with frosting, but it does help with stuff like pooling rings.
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Apr 30, 2020 08:20
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