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Pierzak posted:Have you tried adding a tiny drop of glaze medium to the wash? I know I shill that poo poo every chance I get, but one of its many uses is helping in washes - it makes them dry cleaner and smoother. No idea if it's gonna help with frosting, but it does help with stuff like pooling rings. The only technical stuff I've got is some drying retarder that I don't even use anymore after I got the wet palette, but I really should pick up some glaze medium, maybe matte medium. Might as well get the full set of Army Painter washes to replace the Vallejo ones, while I'm at it, maybe keep them around for assorted grime effects, the black and brown washes are decent for that, at least.
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Apr 30, 2020 08:35
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Ineptitude posted:Im going to try washing between every palette visit, see if that helps. Are you using a wet palette? It really is a game changer. Brush cleaner works great, I use the Vallejo one for my brushes and it gets paint gunk out that I didn't even know was in the brush.
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Apr 30, 2020 08:36
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Cat Face Joe posted:I don't have a solution for you but wanted to let you know that three of the four Vallejo washes I have act like this. I've had AP do this too. Never had this problem with GW. For AP washes adding a dab of Lahmian Medium seems to stop this happening - it's something to do with how the pigment can split when drying, and adding a Matte medium can prevent that.
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Apr 30, 2020 08:39
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Cross-posting from the Oath thread.LazyAngel posted:Oath Complete! I really like how this came out, and the sculpt was a joy to paint. However, for something that's supposed to be a 'Maori' rhino, it might have been worth the sculpter's time to at least do a little research - I did some cursory googling when I was figuring out a colour scheme and even I could see what's wrong with the sculpt. (Club the wrong shape, stone-headed spear, metal chains, shoulder armour to say the least) Still, really pleased with my attempts at projected shadows on the skin.
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Apr 30, 2020 08:41
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KozmoNaut posted:Brush cleaner works great, I use the Vallejo one for my brushes and it gets paint gunk out that I didn't even know was in the brush. How does it work? Do you just dip the brush in it? I never thoroughly clean my brushes (except shaking them very hard in water) because I'm scared to damage them if I touch the bristle, which probably does more harm than good.
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Apr 30, 2020 09:51
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You just dip it in and swirl it around like you would with water. I usually also run my good brushes under the tap for a while after each session to clean them. I dunno if that is kosher, but my set of sable brushes has lasted for a couple of years now, only the ones I've used by far the most have started to go bad and been relegated to basecoating.
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Apr 30, 2020 10:17
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Furism posted:How does it work? Do you just dip the brush in it? I never thoroughly clean my brushes (except shaking them very hard in water) because I'm scared to damage them if I touch the bristle, which probably does more harm than good. I clean the brush as completely as I can with water, then I swish it in the brush cleaner, take the brush out and let the cleaner sit in the bristles for a minute before wiping it clean. I like to wet my brushes and sort of gently roll them on the back of my hand while wet, to sort of work the paint out, without drying them out like paper towel would. I sometimes do that with the brush cleaner as well. I guess you can also do that in the water pot by rolling the brush against the sides.
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Apr 30, 2020 11:47
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i generally keep lovely brushes to do all my metallic paints with, is that good practice or unnecessary? i think i read somewhere that the shiny bits in metallic paints gently caress brushes up, dunno if it’s true but my W&N size 3 is a perfect boy and I want him to last forever
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Apr 30, 2020 12:15
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      I really hope the multipart chaos knights are less insane than these fuckers to assemble.
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Apr 30, 2020 12:51
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jesus WEP posted:i generally keep lovely brushes to do all my metallic paints with, is that good practice or unnecessary? i think i read somewhere that the shiny bits in metallic paints gently caress brushes up, dunno if it’s true but my W&N size 3 is a perfect boy and I want him to last forever Anything synthetic is fine with metallics, just don't use them with your fancy sable ones
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Apr 30, 2020 13:23
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KozmoNaut posted:Are you using a wet palette? It really is a game changer. It really is. I gave that cheap Tupperware, paper towel, and parchment paper one a try, and it has helped a relative novice like myself keep my paints thin, and keep me from buying tons of paints by keeping paints between sessions. I only have some problems when I put metallic paint on it and the paint separating.
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Apr 30, 2020 14:02
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jesus WEP posted:i generally keep lovely brushes to do all my metallic paints with, is that good practice or unnecessary? i think i read somewhere that the shiny bits in metallic paints gently caress brushes up, dunno if it’s true but my W&N size 3 is a perfect boy and I want him to last forever Werix posted:It really is. I gave that cheap Tupperware, paper towel, and parchment paper one a try, and it has helped a relative novice like myself keep my paints thin, and keep me from buying tons of paints by keeping paints between sessions. I only have some problems when I put metallic paint on it and the paint separating. Acrylic metallic paints are a special kind of hell, and a it really bears repeating that they do require special treatment. The mica dust in them is the main issue, as metallic paints are a mix of medium, colors and mica dust for the metallic effect. That means they're easy to over-thin, which generally means they either go on thick and globby or have very little coverage. The mica also loves to seep through the paper on a wet palette, contaminating the sponge/paper underneath, which will put tiny little flecks of shiny mica in any other paints you put on it, until you exchange both the paper and the sponge and rinse out the container. Don't put metallics on your wet palette. The mica dust will also infest your water pot. If you don't change the water and thoroughly rinse the pot before using it again, you will get shiny flecks in your other paints, all of your brushes and your paper towel, at the very least. Don't ever get mica in your pot of brush cleaner. Acrylic metallic paints are just a pain in the rear end, and I've seriously considering gittin' gud at NMM, solely to avoid ever having to work with metallic paints ever again. As it is now, I segregate them to their own workflow, I don't use my best brushes for them, and I thoroughly clean the palette, brush and water pot before I touch any other colors. I learned a couple of hard lessens back when I used Humbrol enamel paints and I was really stingy with replacing my pot of turpentine, since I paid for it out of my allowance. I've heard good things about Vallejo's metal paint series (not Game Color metal or the solvent-based ones, you want the 35ml acrylic metal colors specifically), in that they're not as horrible as other metallics. I bet they still make mica hell mess of everything they touch.
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Apr 30, 2020 15:31
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I've gone over to using a second water pot for just metallics by this point. Even if I keep reflexively dipping the brush in the main one from time to time. At least my main one is a big enough jar that it gets heavily diluted.
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Apr 30, 2020 15:47
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KozmoNaut posted:Acrylic metallic paints are just a pain in the rear end, and I've seriously considering gittin' gud at NMM, solely to avoid ever having to work with metallic paints ever again. As it is now, I segregate them to their own workflow, I don't use my best brushes for them, and I thoroughly clean the palette, brush and water pot before I touch any other colors. I learned a couple of hard lessens back when I used Humbrol enamel paints and I was really stingy with replacing my pot of turpentine, since I paid for it out of my allowance. I switched to NMM almost entirely after learning to do it. It's more work but not having to deal with metallic paints is super nice. But I'm not really an army painter/wargamer though so speed is less of a factor for me than someone who's painting 100 orcs or whatever.
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Apr 30, 2020 15:54
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KozmoNaut posted:Acrylic metallic paints are a special kind of hell, and a it really bears repeating that they do require special treatment. The mica dust in them is the main issue, as metallic paints are a mix of medium, colors and mica dust for the metallic effect. I'm going to counter point this - I don't do ANY of this unless I'm using the Vallejo Metal Color line, in which case I use a different brush and don't put it on my wet palette (they're so thin they wick into the brush quickly, and don't need any additional thinning from the palette). I use the same water from the time I fill the cup until it's evaporated too low to comfortably use. These are good tips for competition painting, but unless you're going for a slayer sword you're probably never going to notice any of it.
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Apr 30, 2020 16:45
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I don't think the extra palette and water pot are necessary, I never noticed the metallic flake contamination either, but I definitely wouldn't use it with your $15 brush.
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Apr 30, 2020 16:53
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Had a hard time working myself up to painting yet another Stormcast warband (why are there so many) so I went with a statue scheme to save some time. I need some goon opinions though: should I give them glowing eyes or not? 
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Apr 30, 2020 17:16
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An animated statue without glowing eyes ain't right so I'd say go for it.
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Apr 30, 2020 17:23
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Winklebottom posted:Had a hard time working myself up to painting yet another Stormcast warband (why are there so many) so I went with a statue scheme to save some time. I need some goon opinions though: should I give them glowing eyes or not? The answer is always yes. But be diegetic about it: the statue was copper before it got verdigris'd (and then magic'ed or something): what color stones would the sculptor originally choose for the inlaid eyes?
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Apr 30, 2020 17:26
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Schadenboner posted:The answer is always yes. But be diegetic about it: the statue was copper before it got verdigris'd (and then magic'ed or something): what color stones would the sculptor originally choose for the inlaid eyes? I feel like purple would go well both with the verdigris and the original copper. I'd also welcome goon painting veterans. I want to paint this T-rex yellow with purple stripes, so I tried the white/pink basecoat with yellow ink and I am now a believer. I'm worried I didn't zenithal hard enough on him, though - is he too orange to you? 
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Apr 30, 2020 17:34
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Schadenboner posted:The answer is always yes. But be diegetic about it: the statue was copper before it got verdigris'd (and then magic'ed or something): what color stones would the sculptor originally choose for the inlaid eyes? I was thinking blue but that might get lost in the verdigris. Dienes posted:I feel like purple would go well both with the verdigris and the original copper. That could work, yeah. Thanks! Winklebottom fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Apr 30, 2020 |
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Apr 30, 2020 17:37
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Booley posted:I use the same water from the time I fill the cup until it's evaporated too low to comfortably use. You don't get mica floating on top of the water and grabbing onto your brush every time you dip it? 
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Apr 30, 2020 18:09
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KozmoNaut posted:You don't get mica floating on top of the water and grabbing onto your brush every time you dip it? There's some in there, but its such a tiny amount that it doesn't actually show on models. The only time I've actually seen any visible contamination is if I wash over vallejo metal color within an hour or two of painting it, where somehow the wash tends to reactivate the paint.
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Apr 30, 2020 18:34
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Thanqol posted:
How did you do that grungy bronze? That's the look Ive been trying to nail with my std.
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Apr 30, 2020 19:12
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Two Headed Calf posted:How did you do that grungy bronze? That's the look Ive been trying to nail with my std. You need to go to the clinic man.
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Apr 30, 2020 19:15
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I always change my water after doing metallics and use a specific set of brushes. Maybe its my imagination, but it feels like my nice brushes have been lasting longer since i started doing this. FWIW when I just used a single set of brushes and the same water for everything i never noticed contamination on my models.
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Apr 30, 2020 20:13
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So I tried out purple eyeglow (turned out a bit more magenta than expected but eh). I'm not sure if it works or not, but the more I fiddled with it the worse it got so I stopped. Any thoughts or advice?
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Apr 30, 2020 21:07
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As with a lot of you guys, I decided to get back into painting as a way to kill time in a productive manner. It started out right before the apocalypse where my friends invited me to play DND with them and I brought out a space marine I painted to use as a paladin, and then my friend asked me to paint up his dude. Then from there I decided to actually paint up some tau and have been trying to get better at stuff like edge highlighting and being a lot cleaner. I'll eventually get together a better photo booth once I'm done with my tau Some necrons I made a long time ago when I first got into painting. Nothing fancy, mostly just blocking and washing  The space marine I brought to play DND with and some other marine pictures. I quit painting way back when because it took a whole day to paint that drop pod and I got a little burnt out     Fast forward a few years to the present: I got this wight king at the games store when I was picking up some replacement paints that didn't survive and looking at models trying to find something for DND that was a little less "Space Marine". I saw this dude and thought he looked cool/cheap so hell why not use it to make sure my tools/paints/brushes are in good shape   Once I made sure stuff worked I took a stab at my friends' rogue   Ok so now I'm in full quarantine and think "gently caress it let's paint up all that unpainted tau I have". I basically just took the paints that I was going to use for the space marines and realized that they kinda look like the russian navy shirts and ran with the stripe idea. The bases are done with a bag of sand I got from the beach and elmer's glue. Cracks are made from using varnish on it when it's not 100% dry so it pulls it all apart This crisis suit was my first attempt at edge highlighting, I wasn't a huge fan of the blue on blue so I eventually started switching over to silver edges and am now trying to mess with making the edges super thin and sponge painting to kinda make it look more like accurate wear and tear on the armor  Second try with way less edge highlighting because i thought it was tedious. I actually like the edge highlighting more but at the time I didn't know how to do it that well. I was trying to use a super small brush but eventually figured out I can do it with the regular size2 brush I use for everything else  This guy's my first attempt at wet blending to get the glow on the ion rifle. I started out doing a glaze on the fatigues and then after testing out the look of solid white I realized I like that look better. So pathfinders and 5 fire warriors have this blue look but the rest of the infantry will just have white   This guy got me good at edge highlighting and I'm proud of how it came out. I took this picture before I finished up all the highlights because I realized I forgot the right arm and some of the parts of the thighs  And testing out the color scheme on a devilfish, I did the weathering by drybrushing but I want to try out a mix of dry brushing and sponging on the next one. Also yes after I took this picture I realized I forgot to do the front window thing  So uh yeah, quarantine has been fun, I still have a lot of troops to paint up before I move back to the battlesuits. I'm excited to do the riptide but I'm afraid because it's kind of a daunting task
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Apr 30, 2020 21:08
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Winklebottom posted:So I tried out purple eyeglow (turned out a bit more magenta than expected but eh). I'm not sure if it works or not, but the more I fiddled with it the worse it got so I stopped. Any thoughts or advice? Maybe add a smaller spot with a bit of the purple mixed with white and/or a small dot of pure white in the center to sell the glow?
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Apr 30, 2020 21:42
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[quote="KozmoNaut" post=""504506849"] The mica also loves to seep through the paper on a wet palette, contaminating the sponge/paper underneath, which will put tiny little flecks of shiny mica in any other paints you put on it, until you exchange both the paper and the sponge and rinse out the container. Don't put metallics on your wet palette. [/quote] This have never happened to me with parchment paper or the wet palette papers from p3 or everlasting palette. I suppose it’s possible but I have never had this occur and happily use metallics on my wet palette.
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Apr 30, 2020 22:28
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Two Headed Calf posted:How did you do that grungy bronze? That's the look Ive been trying to nail with my std. Base Balthazar Gold Completely layer with Castellax Bronze - it's the new bronze that came out with the last wave of GW paints, it's got that dark feel you're looking for. Wash nuln oil Edge highlight sycorax bronze.
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Apr 30, 2020 23:19
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Anyone know of any online retailers still selling the citadel paints? The create your own on amazon is missing some paints I need and most others I see in google are selling the pots for around $10 a piece, which even though I spend a lot is just too much.
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May 1, 2020 00:08
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Pakxos posted:Anyone know of any online retailers still selling the citadel paints? The create your own on amazon is missing some paints I need and most others I see in google are selling the pots for around $10 a piece, which even though I spend a lot is just too much. https://www.gamekastle.com/online/index.php?m=list&c=3372
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May 1, 2020 00:42
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https://twitter.com/brothersrm/status/1256074751216439296?s=21
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May 1, 2020 05:40
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Got called back to work (albeit on a staggered schedule), so I've been slacking off on painting. Saw the GW webstore due to reopen soon, so I thought I'd post photos of the Mk.III Marines I was working on.        (Someone told me I didn't need to upload images in such a high resolution, but I forgot to tweak the camera settings until after I snapped these) What I did with these was prime then first with black spray primer, then I sprayed white primer from the top do a zenithal highlight. I'm using Lupercal Green for the basecoat, and I've applied it pretty thin. The zenithal seems like it worked okay, but the issue I had thought is that there are tide-marks here and there (tried to capture them in the photos). That makes me think that maybe I got the paint too thin. On the flipside, I also worry about doing too many layers because I worry maybe it will cancel out the zenithal effect; it seems like the paint gets pretty dark after a few layers, but then it could be that the base color is just really dark, and blends in with the black primer. It might look better once the layer paint (Sons of Horus Green) applied.
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May 1, 2020 06:17
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Turns out I live in the same town as Reaper HQ. Is the learn to paint kit a good place to start for a total beginner?
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May 1, 2020 06:32
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Nissin Cup Nudist posted:Turns out I live in the same town as Reaper HQ. Is the learn to paint kit a good place to start for a total beginner? Yes, absolutely. Reaper minis are a little bit old school, in that most of them have that hand-sculpted feel and aren't overloaded with fiddly teeny-tiny 3D-modelled intricate details, so they're nice and straight-forward to get into. I like the sort of personality that gives then. The brushes are decent, you get a good universal selection of paints and the instructions are nice.
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May 1, 2020 08:21
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Booley posted:There's some in there, but its such a tiny amount that it doesn't actually show on models. The only time I've actually seen any visible contamination is if I wash over vallejo metal color within an hour or two of painting it, where somehow the wash tends to reactivate the paint. I definitely had massive problems with it back when I used enamel paints, and I just hate the idea of getting sparkles in my other colors. So I line up models ready for metallics and handle it all in one go, for peace of mind. Also, it's a great excuse to learn NMM 
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May 1, 2020 08:24
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Nissin Cup Nudist posted:Turns out I live in the same town as Reaper HQ. Is the learn to paint kit a good place to start for a total beginner? Haven't tried it personally but a lot of people say it's probably the best price/quality you can get to start painting minis. Make sure you wash the minis with soap though, and you need superglue to put them together (not regular scale modeling glue) because the materials they use are different than some other brands (like Games Workshop or scale model brands).
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May 1, 2020 12:30
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Specifically their white "Bones" plastic is a bit odd, it's not styrene like most other plastic minis. Some spray primers really don't work well on it, they never fully dry for some reason. It's also more flexible, which can be a benefit for gaming, as the paint wont rub off as easily as with metal minis. If you just wash it with soap and water as Furism wrote, you should be able to paint directly onto the plastic without any primer. E: Details: https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/48667-bones-frequently-asked-questions-unofficial/ KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 12:53 on May 1, 2020 |
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May 1, 2020 12:51
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