What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
|||
---|---|---|---|
Perennials! | 142 | 20.91% | |
Annuals! | 30 | 4.42% | |
Woody plants! | 62 | 9.13% | |
Succulent plants! | 171 | 25.18% | |
Tropical plants! | 60 | 8.84% | |
Non-vascular plants are the best! | 31 | 4.57% | |
Screw you, I'd rather eat them! | 183 | 26.95% | |
Total: | 679 votes |
|
Coleus is the most amazing colored plant.
|
# ? Apr 27, 2020 15:26 |
|
|
# ? May 14, 2024 00:01 |
|
anatomi posted:Looks like some kind of hosta to me, as well. That setup looks incredibly sexy!
|
# ? Apr 27, 2020 16:26 |
|
Thanks for the hints y'all! We are in zone 8a. The mystery plant is in a raised bed that gets shade in the late afternoon. There's a rose bush growing about a foot away.
|
# ? Apr 27, 2020 18:01 |
|
coronatae posted:Thanks for the hints y'all! We are in zone 8a. The mystery plant is in a raised bed that gets shade in the late afternoon. There's a rose bush growing about a foot away. I’m in zone 8b, I’m almost certain it’s a hosta.
|
# ? Apr 27, 2020 20:35 |
|
So for pruning the basil - Do I also take off the big leaves underneath the little pairs of leaves?
|
# ? Apr 27, 2020 22:09 |
|
Hey, I'd like to get an opinion from folks on this. So yesterday I made the mistake of fertilizing a few hanging baskets, then hanging one above one of my maples. The fertilizer water dripped down and now a bunch of the leaves are burned. After some googling about leaf burn in general, I came across this nursery newsletter. Alden Lane Nursery posted:
Has anyone ever heard of being able to get a tree to regrow leaves in the middle of the year? This seems way too good to be true. EDIT: I also find it odd that they list two very different fertilizers - Master Formula 49 is 8-4-4 and the Maxsea is 14-18-14 but maybe that's not too big of a deal. Solkanar512 fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Apr 27, 2020 |
# ? Apr 27, 2020 22:34 |
|
Solkanar512 posted:Has anyone ever heard of being able to get a tree to regrow leaves in the middle of the year? This seems way too good to be true.
|
# ? Apr 27, 2020 23:17 |
|
My mature Japanese maple has put on new growth after a pruning in the middle of the year.
|
# ? Apr 27, 2020 23:54 |
|
My new little begonia rex has crispy edges I just got it from the seller about a week ago. I'm reading they're sensitive to hard water but I have another angel wing begonia that is growing like a weed and it just gets tap water. Any advice? I thought maybe not enough soil in the pot to hold water in the warm area around the window, so I'm hoping it survives a transfer out of the nursery pot.
|
# ? Apr 28, 2020 05:05 |
|
Killingyouguy! posted:So for pruning the basil - It looks like it's bounced back pretty significantly from your original pic. Get some more soil in there, keep it moist, and let it ride. Is outside not an option? Basil can get as much sun as possible once their acclimated to it
|
# ? Apr 28, 2020 11:06 |
|
Oil of Paris posted:It looks like it's bounced back pretty significantly from your original pic. Get some more soil in there, keep it moist, and let it ride. Is outside not an option? Basil can get as much sun as possible once their acclimated to it I'm in an apartment with no balcony, so windowsill is as good as it gets unfortunately. They all face south. I topped it up with the last of my soil but I'll see if I can get more soil the next time I go out shopping, thanks
|
# ? Apr 28, 2020 14:02 |
|
Solkanar512 posted:That setup looks incredibly sexy! Thanks! Right now we're trying to hold the landlord to their promise to help us out with the ungodly amount of soil required. I'm really looking forward to populating the planters. I can never remember if these are lady ferns or male ferns (stupid names) I've planted here. Regardless, their emergence is one of the most beautiful things I know. Apparently the shoots, despite being a bit cancerous, are eaten in some parts of the world — they do look tasty. I planted some lilies back about a year and a half. They all pushed up for the start of summer, but then quickly receded. They're all looking much stronger this year. Some of the bulbs have split and I'm gonna spread them out in the fall. They're all martagon lilies of some variety or another, except the lilies to the left in the first picture. Can't remember what that one is. It may take martagons several years before they bloom, so I'm not counting on that happening this summer. That said, the bulbs I acquired were already quite mature, so who knows?
|
# ? Apr 28, 2020 14:38 |
|
Killingyouguy! posted:I'm in an apartment with no balcony, so windowsill is as good as it gets unfortunately. They all face south. I topped it up with the last of my soil but I'll see if I can get more soil the next time I go out shopping, thanks I think the additional soil will help a lot, because right now you've got it growing out of some kind of pit. Just pick it out of there, add soil to bottom to get it closer to the top of the pot. Then it won't have to put so much energy into growing out of that hole it's in and will have more room to send down roots
|
# ? Apr 29, 2020 11:26 |
|
I always try to get a picture when I get a new plant for future comparison and a cristate Pachycereus marginatus just arrived. It needs a little cleaning but I figured I'd in case anyone else is into that sort of thing:
|
# ? Apr 29, 2020 22:52 |
|
I have not worked on my espalier trellis in a whole week. I’m fostering some tiny baby kittens and it is destroying both my sleep schedule and, apparently, my ability to do anything else during my downtime. Hopefully things will open up a bit when the kitties’ eyes open and I have a little more time between their feedings.
|
# ? Apr 30, 2020 00:16 |
|
Wallet posted:I always try to get a picture when I get a new plant for future comparison and a cristate Pachycereus marginatus just arrived. It needs a little cleaning but I figured I'd in case anyone else is into that sort of thing: It's magnificent. These guys aren't in Australia and won't be unless a normal P. marginata decides to randomly crest... so I'm always a bit envious when I see them online!
|
# ? Apr 30, 2020 02:49 |
|
Givin' those spider plants a shower Getting the jades used to the sun again Thinkin' bout those Spring flowers
|
# ? Apr 30, 2020 22:28 |
|
Can anyone recommend a guide on rose care and trimming? I've recently moved to Tucson, Arizona where I'm caring for some family members. Our garden is full of roses and bougainvillea. We have worked out a watering schedule that's making the plants very happy. I know I should deadhead the old blooms and was told that I can cut back the plants but not sure what else to cut back. I have never grown roses or bougainvillea before.
|
# ? May 1, 2020 00:13 |
|
Check out YouTube channel “Plant amnesty” she has a great many guides to pruning but I think has like a four part series on rose pruning in particular. Also she’s very cool lol
|
# ? May 1, 2020 00:36 |
|
Roses are very vigorous for the most part, and you can about prune them with a chainsaw and do them no long term damage. Do you have any idea what kind of roses they are? Hybrid teas are much fussier than old fashioned roses. You can fuss over roses about as much or as little as you want-old fashioned ones seem to thrive on neglect, but hybrid teas will definitely be happier with the right kind of attention. I would imagine with how dry it is is Tucson watering is going to be the biggest concern and it sounds like you’ve figured that out. Its probably not as big of a concern in a dry climate as it is here, but most roses are fairly susceptible to a fungus called black spot that is transmitted around the leaves by splashing water droplets. It’s a fairly minor disease that just makes some leaves fall off, but easy enough to avoid if you can by watering with a hose/drip emitter at the base of the plant instead of with a sprayer or sprinkler. Roses are pretty heavy feeders, and giving them some slow release flower/rose fertilizer ever few months will help keep them happy, as will a nice layer of mulch in the bed. Deadheading will keep them blooming longer, but isn’t really important for the health of the plant.
|
# ? May 1, 2020 00:51 |
|
Thank you both! There are many varieties of roses, maybe two dozen plants - will you be able to tell/guess the variety from photos? If so, do you want photos of flower, leaf, whole plant?
|
# ? May 1, 2020 08:08 |
I went round my garden and took a picture of every rose bush, worked out I have at least 15, most of them old fashioned, although my grandma keeps giving me little patio roses in pots. There's so many different roses, you'd have to put pictures of the flowers at least. Here's one I got last year, in memory of somebody. It's a standard rose and I have no idea what to do with it.
|
|
# ? May 1, 2020 11:36 |
|
Hi plants thread. Some amazing photos in the last few pages, I'm very envious of your expertise! I am more or less a complete novice at plants except very good tomatoes grown on my terrace 3-4 years ago back in London. I now have a home with a little garden but it's in the mountains in Switzerland and very different climate. Just in here to chat about plants and get pointers if thats OK The ground around the house/chalet is pretty steep, maybe 60+ degrees, and looks like not much effort went into re-grassing it after it was built 2 years ago, and there are basically no trees (though it turns out we have an extra thin bit of land sticking out which has a few little ones on it). I think we have about 150 m2 of land so not very much. The building is at 1700m / 6000ft elevation and the land spends a decent amount of the winter covered in snow. Summers are pretty warm, up to about 35 deg C last year. The slope faces south-east and is sunny though there is one big spruce next door that blocks light briefly during the day. if you look straight across the valley you can see what the normal land is like - spruce and larch. I want the surrounding land to be prettier. One thing I am a also bit concerned about is there are some bare patches which look unstable. (The house is built directly on rock so I don't think any issues for the building). The area around is mostly larch and spruce forest at this elevation but there is a decent amount of birch and some other things in peoples' gardens. Birch doesn't seem to exist any higher up than this, though I can't tell if that's because it isn't planted. The tree line is about 2100m here so we're well under it. This is what the neighbours land looks like, with bonus elderly cat: The ground is too steep to walk on so no need to consider it being a lawn. I bought some "flowery meadow" seeds and I've just sprinkled them over most of the land but especially the bare bits, and I cheekily did some sprinkling over land that isn't actually ours that looked like it needed it. Does the land need to be bare for the flower seeds to get established? I really like the idea of having wild flowers all round. (this is the meadow seed https://www.hauenstein.ch/fr/recher...lora%20Myco.pdf) I also ordered some tree saplings to try and hold the soil together a bit more, 3x silver birch, 2x larch and 3x juniper. Again not sure what I'm doing, do they need staking and protection from animals? We are just next to the proper forest and get deer sometimes. I bought 1m tall plants partly because big ones are really expensive but also hoping I don't have to dig down too far. Will cherry trees grow OK at this elevation? Are there any nice climbing plants I could look at to grow on the outside of the house? knox_harrington fucked around with this message at 13:40 on May 1, 2020 |
# ? May 1, 2020 13:28 |
|
Solkanar512 posted:That setup looks incredibly sexy! Right? The sight of so many staggered container planters like that is making my mouth all watery. I want that courtyard!
|
# ? May 1, 2020 13:51 |
|
knox_harrington posted:Hi plants thread. Some amazing photos in the last few pages, I'm very envious of your expertise! I am more or less a complete novice at plants except very good tomatoes grown on my terrace 3-4 years ago back in London. I now have a home with a little garden but it's in the mountains in Switzerland and very different climate. Just in here to chat about plants and get pointers if thats OK I don't really have any advice because all my gardening experience has been at sea level in the humid subtropics, but that is a gorgeous site and I think you'll have fun with it. Look at what your neighbors are growing and ask them about it-the best gardening advice is local advice. WrenP-Complete posted:Thank you both! Nettle Soup posted:I went round my garden and took a picture of every rose bush, worked out I have at least 15, most of them old fashioned, although my grandma keeps giving me little patio roses in pots. There's so many different roses, you'd have to put pictures of the flowers at least.
|
# ? May 1, 2020 14:05 |
I think it's Margaret Merril, half standard, but I might be looking at the wrong pot. It's not that fragrant, but it is very pretty.
Nettle Soup fucked around with this message at 16:14 on May 1, 2020 |
|
# ? May 1, 2020 15:40 |
|
Okay, great! I've taken photos of many of the roses, and some of them are old fashioned and some of them are tea roses. I'll share them once I upload to imgur. I'll look more for the black spots when it's not 105 out. How can you tell if roses need a bigger pot? Some of the smaller ones look a little pathetic, but the big ones on drip irrigation are very happy. There's room for more plants on drip irrigation and it would be nice to promote some of the small potted ones to that space if possible. I also took pictures of the bougainvillea. I thought they were dead when I moved here but my family said that they'd come back and they have. I think still better to cut back the dead parts.
|
# ? May 1, 2020 20:49 |
Blackspot is endemic, you'll never get rid of it, just keep an eye on it. This rose had horrendous blackspot when I got it last year, and not long after all the leaves fell off, but it's back up and seems happy now.
|
|
# ? May 1, 2020 21:00 |
|
knox_harrington posted:Will cherry trees grow OK at this elevation? Are there any nice climbing plants I could look at to grow on the outside of the house? Something you might consider is bush cherries, if you can get them in Switzerland. As the name implies, they grow as bushes, not the aggressively upright trees of the domestic cherry. Bushes adapted to the northern interiors of Asia and North America will have no problem on your mountain. They are generally considered sour cherries, but cultivars exist that are sweet enough to eat out of hand. The University of Saskatchewan’s breeding program produced some good hybrids of Prunus cerasus and P. fruticosa.
|
# ? May 2, 2020 00:52 |
|
I'm very much a beginning gardener (basically growing succulents/cactus in my sunroom past 2 years), I'd really like to learn more skills but find it difficult. Trial and error has been getting me better, but often I will kill things without learning from the process/misinterpret whats happening. Especially now its moving into winter here it is challenging to get things happy. If its okay I might ask a few questions? 1. I'm worried that the cactii wont get enough light, especially weird anomolous things I've collected/traded. I've borrowed a camera and going to timelapse the room from different angles to see where the light *actually* is falling. When I rearrange the room - a) is a bit more distance from the windows but longer duration sun going to work better? b) is there a good resource for likely condition changes for monstrose/cristate/albino things? (eg I have a cristate ghost next to a cristate, the cristate massively reverted the ghost seems happy?) c) mirrors. are they actually an effective option to increase light? easy to cook plants? 2. I have had very little luck getting seeds to strike, or non-succulent cuttings. a) I think part of its been the transition with plants that do germinate // cuttings that grow roots - peat blocks seem terrible in hindsight, growing dust-seeds I couldnt get them from the sealed container into the real world without them all dying, cuttings thrived in water till I transplanted etc. Is there something really obvious I'm missing? b) Part of it is probably that I like weird things. I live in the sub-tropical australia. Some are supposedly very resilient, others not. I can find very little information on when/how to actually plant weird seed, most 'encyclopedia' type websites dont seem to have that information, or its a hundred page technical document. Is there something really obvious I'm missing? I'd happily read a bit on the plants in their natural habitat and try and learn how that translates, but I live in Aus, they will be in pots, inside, I cant find the right level of information, and I'm not real sharp. I read that back and I'm like 'Well theres your problem". But any suggestions welcome lol. I will edit in a few pictures of some plants that I think are cool, really enjoyed some of your pictures people. Euphorbia lactea cristate ghost a year ago + now : Weird grey dyckia Acacia Aphylla Its a novel acacia that loses its leaves during the first big heat and then only photosynthesises using its stems, its a succulent/unique evolutionary adaption. Photos from when I potted them, pretty miserable atm - one way more than the other? 'Thai hybrid' its a conventionally-attractive monstrose whatever it is And I *think* this is a Moonflower Ipomea Alba - which I found yesterday, I tried to grow some from seed and failed so was really enthused to find a wild one. Its not an invasive species locally like some morning glories. Perpetual Hiatus fucked around with this message at 02:48 on May 2, 2020 |
# ? May 2, 2020 02:06 |
|
Cactus generally like lots of light and do poorly if they don’t get it but I’ve seen plenty on the north side of buildings (in the northern hemisphere) doing great. Something I do to understand sunlight outdoors is to use a phone app. I use Sun Seeker, but I’m sure there are others. They use the phone’s sensors (compass, gyroscopes, accelerometers, GPS) to determine where the phone is and where it’s pointing. The path of the Sun is calculated and overlaid onto live video from the camera. It can display the path on the solstices, equinoxes, or any date in‐between. It’s not perfectly precise and this may be more of a problem indoors, but it gives a pretty good idea of what’s going to block the Sun and when it will do so. Think also about overcast days. When the sky is overcast, light comes from everywhere. The more of the sky is visible to a plant, the more light that plant gets. I think this is one of the reasons that cactuses on the poleward side of buildings can do all right. They’re still getting skyglow on cloudy days. Instead of mirrors, simply put a white surface behind the plants. Propagation is the hardest part of gardening. Some plants just don’t root well from cuttings. Air layering can be an alternative. A rule of thumb for seeds you can’t find specific information on is to put them in moderately moist soil, buried as deeply beneath the surface as the seed’s own length. Keep them at a little above room temperature and water when the surface of the soil is just beginning to dry. This certainly won’t work for all seeds, certainly not cactus, but it works for many temperate and tropical species. The plastic bag method can also work. Wash seeds with three percent hydrogen peroxide. Most seeds are tough enough to take it. Fungus isn’t. Platystemon fucked around with this message at 03:06 on May 2, 2020 |
# ? May 2, 2020 03:03 |
|
I want to plant a white peach tree in my yard, but I think I’m out of direct sunlight space after planting all of these other peach and cherry and apple trees. ... I don’t suppose there’s any way for a bradford pear tree or an oak tree or what we think might be a eucalyptus tree to meet with an “accident”, is there? Perhaps something disease related that won’t hurt any of my fruit trees? I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 05:13 on May 2, 2020 |
# ? May 2, 2020 05:09 |
|
If it’s not your tree, you can kill it, but they’ll put a sign like this up for you. What’s worse is that you may be liable for the full cost to maintain and transplant a mature tree, which could be be tens of thousands of dollars. Now, if it is your tree, but you have to make it look like an accident for political reasons, you do you. All I’ll say is that they call it “hack and squirt”. Platystemon fucked around with this message at 05:31 on May 2, 2020 |
# ? May 2, 2020 05:26 |
|
Perpetual Hiatus posted:Lots of words about growing succulents and cacti and other cool and weird plants... I'm in Sydney and I grow all sorts of absolutely weird cacti and succulents -- given climate (either natural or artificial) is 9/10ths of successfully growing plants, I reckon I'm in a pretty good position to offer advice. 1. How warm is your sunroom? If it's artificially heated, you're going to need to ensure your plants are getting ample light. If it gets cold... and most sunrooms I know do, because of all those windows, your cacti and succulents are likely to go dormant and the amount of light they get is not going to be of huge importance. a) If it's direct light, it shouldn't matter how far from the window is. If it's indirect light... you're going to want to be careful moving too far from the window. b) I'm not entirely sure what you're asked re: condition changes. Do you mean the likelihood of these plants reverting to the normal form? It differs for every species, some of them are incredibly stable, others are always trying to return to their normal form. Your cristate euphorbias are pretty easy to keep cristate, though -- just chop off any reverts and it'll keep putting growth energy into the crested parts. c) I've got no experience with mirrors, but you're going to want to be careful whenever you expose a side of a plant that's not accustomed to light to a sudden new light source. 2. All seeds are different - some are piss-easy, and others seem intent on dying, even in the perfect micro-climate. Is there anything in particular you're trying to grow? If you've got specifics, I might be able to offer some insight. For me, I've been growing cacti and succulent seeds for about four years. I've probably got fewer than 5% of the first batch of seedlings to survive, but through a lot of reading and trial and error, I've managed to get that number up to about 95% except for some of the trickiest plants.
|
# ? May 2, 2020 06:57 |
|
Platystemon posted:If it’s not your tree, you can kill it, but they’ll put a sign like this up for you. They are our trees, in our yard. I am not going to gently caress with a neighbor’s trees. Except for that one whose branches are crossing the fence into our yard and blocking the sunlight from several of my new trees so I have to prune them back a bit...... but the neighbors are cool with that so it’s okay.
|
# ? May 2, 2020 07:50 |
|
Hack and squirt will kill the whole tree, but wait until spring is done and the sap has quit rising. Girdling will probably kill the tree above the girdle. That being said, what are you going to do about the big dead, dangerous trees standing in your yard? Dead trees are much more dangerous (and expensive) to have removed than live ones, so it’s probably actually cheaper and safer to have them cut down now instead of in 3 years after they’ve dropped a limb on someone’s head.
|
# ? May 2, 2020 12:39 |
|
I. M. Gei posted:I want to plant a white peach tree in my yard, but I think I’m out of direct sunlight space after planting all of these other peach and cherry and apple trees. Is there a reason you can't get a professional tree removal service in, or are you just avoiding the hassle/cost? Highly recommend if the trees are close enough to threaten structures or power lines, especially if they're dead. Other than that, Bradford Pears are invasive garbage trees. It'd kill it before the oak or eucalyptus if it's a choice between them.
|
# ? May 2, 2020 13:26 |
|
Don’t kill the Bradford pear. Topwork it by grafting on fruiting pear scions.
|
# ? May 2, 2020 13:37 |
|
Platystemon posted:Instead of mirrors, simply put a white surface behind the plants. If you actually need/want more light mirrors will work better than white paint for increasing light as long as you angle them appropriately. I've seen a number of people do this to increase the light coming in a window by a bit (with strips of mirror along the inside of the window frame—there's an example in the first minute of this video) or to move light they already get that's in the wrong place. As elgarbo pointed out, suddenly blasting any plant with a ton more light than it has been getting previously is a good way to burn the poo poo out of it before it can adjust, so be careful. Perpetual Hiatus posted:b) is there a good resource for likely condition changes for monstrose/cristate/albino things? (eg I have a cristate ghost next to a cristate, the cristate massively reverted the ghost seems happy?) I haven't found great resources about this, but for the most part the normal form of the plant should give you some idea of the requirements of a monstrose/cristate form of the same plant. Many cristate/monstrose forms are supposedly a bit less robust than their normal forms (which makes sense) so they can require a bit more care. As far as I know truly albino plants are going to have a rough go of it because they have no chlorophyll. If you just mean succulents/cacti that have white or close to white foliage, as far as I know most of the naturally occuring instances of this are in plants that get massive amounts of direct sunlight in their native range and have evolved lightly colored foliage to reflect enough light that they don't get roasted. I would expect plants with that sort of coloration to need a good deal of direct sunlight to be happy. Wallet fucked around with this message at 13:56 on May 2, 2020 |
# ? May 2, 2020 13:45 |
|
|
# ? May 14, 2024 00:01 |
|
what's the best way to get stumps low enough to mow over them? I've been digging out around them and using a chainsaw but the dirt always gets around and dulls the teeth pretty bad
|
# ? May 2, 2020 18:05 |