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I'm planning to upgrade to a new pc rig along the lines of PCPartsPicker's "Magnificent [AMD/Intel] Gaming/Streaming build", and I'm wondering whether it would be a mistake to skip on the RAM upgrade and instead cannibalize my current machine's 2x8GB DDR4 3000mhz sticks. Thoughts? Also, it's looking like next gen consoles will focus pretty heavily on accelerating load times, for which game developers will likely start designing. What can I do when selecting a PC build to try and reduce load times to a minimum?
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May 5, 2020 22:25
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Thom P. Tiers posted:The CPU itself should VERY easily just "set" into the socket. No pressure places on it at all. Match up the gold triangle on the CPU and the arrow on the motherboard and just set it in. Then lock down the lever. I guess what confused me was that there wasn't the plastic piece that is removed at installation. I lined up the arrows but there was "space" or wiggle room. My mistake may have occurred when trying to screw on the fan. The manual had two directions-9ne that kept the "bracers" on and the other had them removed. I first attempted screwing in the fan without the brackets but the little screws with springs didnt move. I reinstalled the brackets and attempted to screw the fan in to the same results. I then removed the cpu and saw the bent posts. I'm certain its my fault
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May 5, 2020 22:26
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grill youre saelf posted:I guess what confused me was that there wasn't the plastic piece that is removed at installation. I lined up the arrows but there was "space" or wiggle room. My mistake may have occurred when trying to screw on the fan. The manual had two directions-9ne that kept the "bracers" on and the other had them removed. I first attempted screwing in the fan without the brackets but the little screws with springs didnt move. I reinstalled the brackets and attempted to screw the fan in to the same results. I then removed the cpu and saw the bent posts. I'm certain its my fault I was so excited to finally build my first pc and I hosed up on the very first step after unboxing the items. It's a bit concerning lol
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May 5, 2020 22:35
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If it's any consolation my first attempt at installing a CPU + cooler was a tragic hour-long affair that made me question whether I was even born with the ability to properly use my hands, which I'm fairly were coated in about twice as much thermal paste as the CPU.
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May 5, 2020 22:40
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Heavy neutrino posted:If it's any consolation my first attempt at installing a CPU + cooler was a tragic hour-long affair that made me question whether I was even born with the ability to properly use my hands, which I'm fairly were coated in about twice as much thermal paste as the CPU. That actually makes me feel a bit less incompetent. Not much, but it's there
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May 5, 2020 22:45
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Two builds ago I didn't think my new GPU was seated properly, tried to pull it back out and somehow managed to scrape part of an exposed pcb board on the card along the edge of the PC case. Ripped a tiny little transistor right off. Just looked at it wondering how dumb I could be and then boxed it up for a return as clearly it was defective out of the box. poo poo happens.
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May 5, 2020 23:12
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Heavy neutrino posted:I'm planning to upgrade to a new pc rig along the lines of PCPartsPicker's "Magnificent [AMD/Intel] Gaming/Streaming build", and I'm wondering whether it would be a mistake to skip on the RAM upgrade and instead cannibalize my current machine's 2x8GB DDR4 3000mhz sticks. Thoughts? You should be fine. Getting an NVMe SSD offers theoretically faster load times, but its wayyy to early to say how the storage setup on the new consoles will impact PC requirements.
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May 6, 2020 00:00
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My 8 year old desktop just gave up on me and I'm looking for advice on building a new one for graphic design and maybe light gaming. I already have a huge ATX case and a copy of windows 10 but I only have a budget of $800 - $900 and I'm not sure where I can cut cost corners and what parts matter more than others anymore. I run dual monitors if that matters (aside from needing a gpu).
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May 6, 2020 00:46
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I'm going to be doing a new build now, but will be re-using my current graphics card (GTX 960 4GB) until next gen cards are being released. This will be a mITX build with an R5 3600, m.2 nVME SSD and air cooling. Will a 450W PSU be enough to ensure I have plenty of GPU options available, or would it be safer to go with 650W? I feel like 450W should be fine for a minimal system like this, but I'm looking for some reassurance. I'd probably be looking at the next gen equivalent to a 5700 XT or 2060S or 2070S depending on price.
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May 6, 2020 00:53
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Some Goon posted:You should be fine. Getting an NVMe SSD offers theoretically faster load times, but its wayyy to early to say how the storage setup on the new consoles will impact PC requirements. I'm already playing games off of a Samsung 970 EVO, I was just wondering whether there are wacky virtualization arrangements that could push loading times down further.
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May 6, 2020 01:11
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Heavy neutrino posted:I'm already playing games off of a Samsung 970 EVO, I was just wondering whether there are wacky virtualization arrangements that could push loading times down further. Nah. Loading times on PC aren't even that improved from sata SSD -> NVMe, so until new consoles actually demonstrate the things they're promising take it all with a grain of salt. Consoles tend to exaggerate their abilities ahead of launch.
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May 6, 2020 01:30
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I just hired a fat 16 year old good with experience to help me put the computer together. He loves DnD and has built his own computer before. The 40 dollars spent will give me good feelings about this now.
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May 6, 2020 01:37
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Alright. I only do my homework on PC building when it's time to buy a new machine, and after doing a bit of research, it doesn't seem to me like the performance boost from buying a Ryzen 7 3800X or 3700X instead of a 3600X justifies the price increase? I'm starting to doubt that the 3600X will ever bottleneck me, so I'll probably save the hundo unless there's a compelling reason not to. As for the GPU, I'm playing games on a 1440p, 144hz monitor and 144 frames per second is super important to me (my launch-era 1080 frequently failing to provide 144 is the reason I'm upgrading). Am I right to think that the RTX 2080 super will run the majority of games at a solid 144fps?
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May 6, 2020 01:53
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Severedseven posted:My 8 year old desktop just gave up on me and I'm looking for advice on building a new one for graphic design and maybe light gaming. I already have a huge ATX case and a copy of windows 10 but I only have a budget of $800 - $900 and I'm not sure where I can cut cost corners and what parts matter more than others anymore. I run dual monitors if that matters (aside from needing a gpu). PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($172.39 @ Newegg) Motherboard: ASRock B450M/AC Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($93.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($68.99 @ Newegg) Storage: ADATA Ultimate SU750 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB SC ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($233.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Monoprice) Total: $784.32 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-05-05 21:17 EDT-0400 The ASRock motherboard has built-in WiFi if you need that and was released after the 3XXX chips, so all of them are updated. If your gaming is very light, you could save money with a 1650 Super too.
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May 6, 2020 02:19
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PCPartPicker Part List CPU: *AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($172.39 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: *Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. B 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($48.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 AORUS ELITE ATX AM4 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($84.99 @ Best Buy) Storage: Samsung 970 Evo 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($179.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB WINDFORCE OC 3X Video Card Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($104.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA BQ 600 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($93.08 @ Amazon) The only parts I haven't bought so far are the Motherboard, Memory, Storage and the Power Supply. Are these options I got on here good or is there something different I should get instead?
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May 6, 2020 02:48
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The REAL Goobusters posted:PCPartPicker Part List Get a Tomahawk MAX (if you can find one), a sabrent rocket / inland premium SSD (there are others just as good, but I can never remember them), and get a seasonic focus plus, corsair RMx or EVGA G# 80+ Gold PSU for $10 more for 3x the warranty.
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May 6, 2020 03:01
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so close to finally building my PC - the only part left for my computer is the PSU!  unfortunately, because I bought it via a guest account, corsair won't let me track the dang package even though I have the order number, so I have no idea if that'll get here in a day or in a month. 
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May 6, 2020 03:08
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ryangs posted:Seems like the smart move is to buy moderate 9th-gen stuff now while it's at lower, end-of-cycle pricing. If the i5-9600K proves to be a bottleneck for anything, I could upgrade to an i7-9700K later this year. I assume those will keep getting gradually cheaper for a few more months, before prices start going up from lack of supply. AFAIK Intel never does price cuts for previous gen chips on their end, while resellers will eventually price gouge them due to lack of supply, so prices are only going to rise. So I strongly suggest you wait for 10th gen.
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May 6, 2020 03:10
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PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($172.39 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Best Buy) Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($79.99 @ B&H) Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($79.99 @ B&H) Storage: Western Digital Blue 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB SC ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($233.98 @ Newegg) Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($74.98 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA BQ 600 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($94.95 @ Amazon) Total: $1006.25 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-05-05 22:46 EDT-0400 Looking to help build a computer for a friend, he's hoping to spend around 900, he wants to play games but doesn't care about 4k/1440p gaming, but wants things to run smoothly. He specifically mentioned XCOM2, I assume he'll want to play the new TFTD or whatever as well when it comes out, and Skyrim, so nothing extremely new but I would like him to have the option of newer games as well. Any suggestions for cost lowering, better value etc? I guess dropping to 16GB of RAM would be one spot, but perhaps there are other spots as well/instead. I would like to avoid a smaller SSD because he's not very technically savvy and I don't want him to run into storage issues and require a second drive. MF_James fucked around with this message at 04:03 on May 6, 2020 |
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May 6, 2020 03:50
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Are there any mobo/case/cooler recommendations to go with a 3600 in mATX or mITX? If I decide to go with another mid-tower build I'm going to go with the Tomahawk Max and the Meshify C, but I'm wondering what's available in the smaller form factors because they'd be way more convenient to fit on my desk.
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May 6, 2020 04:03
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I have two SSDs in RAID 0 on my current mobo and I'm thinking of upgrading. Would changing out the motherboards (or, while I'm at it, resetting the BIOS via removing the CMOS battery or something) uncouple them? It's not a huge deal if so, I just have some games and recordings in there that can be reinstalled and moved, respectively, I'm more just curious.
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May 6, 2020 06:02
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Maple Leaf posted:I have two SSDs in RAID 0 on my current mobo and I'm thinking of upgrading. Would changing out the motherboards (or, while I'm at it, resetting the BIOS via removing the CMOS battery or something) uncouple them? It's not a huge deal if so, I just have some games and recordings in there that can be reinstalled and moved, respectively, I'm more just curious. It depends on how they're set up in raid. If it's software then you'd just need the same software. If it's hardware you could use the same raid card. If it's hardware on the motherboard then yes, a new motherboard will destroy your raid setup. I don't know about resetting the cmos on the old board. If you're setting things back up again, you should probably just not use RAID 0, especially with SSDs.
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May 6, 2020 06:18
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I'm actually a bit interested in having 2 nvme SSD's installed at some point in the future. Do most motherboards come with 2 slots or how does that work?
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May 6, 2020 07:18
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The REAL Goobusters posted:I'm actually a bit interested in having 2 nvme SSD's installed at some point in the future. Do most motherboards come with 2 slots or how does that work? You want a mobo with dual M2 slot that are at least both PCIe Gen3 x4 and in the 2280 form factor. If you want PCIe Gen4 NVMe, the only consumer option is Ryzen 3xxx/X570 and you have to make sure the mobo spec sheet explicitly states Gen4 x4 for both M2 slots. Palladium fucked around with this message at 11:24 on May 6, 2020 |
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May 6, 2020 11:18
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Palladium posted:You want a mobo with dual M2 slot that are at least both PCIe Gen3 x4 and in the 2280 form factor. If you want PCIe Gen4 NVMe, the only consumer option is Ryzen 3xxx/X570 and you have to make sure the mobo spec sheet explicitly states Gen4 x4 for both M2 slots. So generally look for spec sheets like this? M.2 1 x M Key 2242, 2260, 2280, 22110 (PCIe 4.0 x4, PCIe 3.0 x4) 1 x M Key 2242, 2260, 2280 (PCIe 4.0 x4, PCIe 3.0 x4, SATA III)
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May 6, 2020 15:09
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MF_James posted:
The difference from 32GB to 16GB will literally be unnoticeable for your friend and the easiest way to cut $80 out of the cost. A 1TB SSD these days is a pretty standard recommendation around here because games are so enormous these days, so I would keep that.
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May 6, 2020 16:21
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The REAL Goobusters posted:So generally look for spec sheets like this? Yes, that what you want. If you want PCIe Gen4 SSDs (like Sabrent 4.0) you will have to pay around 33% more for the same capacity versus Gen3 class equivalents. But unless you do very heavy file transfers all the time, you won't see a real-world difference between both though.
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May 6, 2020 16:22
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Palladium posted:Yes, that what you want. Ahhh Okok, that makes sense. Thanks for the help! Now the hunt for a motherboard that isn’t sold out continues
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May 6, 2020 16:45
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I have a really stupid question: I still haven't activated my MXP profile and i'd like to get around to it, however if my PC boots from fastboot I obviously don't get the chance; but when it does a normal/hardboot by the time my keyboard/monitor pick up input it's already in windows. How can you make W10 boot to bios?
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May 6, 2020 16:58
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Zedd posted:I have a really stupid question: If you have it in UEFI mode you can do a reboot directly to BIOS with • Settings -> Update & Security -> Recovery -> Advanced Startup "restart now" That takes you to a blue menu screen, at which point you select • Troubleshoot -> Advanced Options -> UEFI Firmware Settings edit: if you're not in UEFI mode that last button won't be available, so you have to turn off windows fast boot and just hammer the del key edit 2: it doesn't matter if the monitor is blank, but if you have some type of wireless keyboard that doesn't connect right away that could be an issue Klyith fucked around with this message at 17:11 on May 6, 2020 |
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May 6, 2020 17:05
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Zedd posted:I have a really stupid question: Just start jamming the BIOS key from the minute you hit the switch, it should pick up even if it doesn't look like anything's happening yet. A wireless keyboard may cause a problem, but I have the cheapest one in the world and it still works.
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May 6, 2020 18:24
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I have a wired Corsair one with pretty lights and a BIOS mode switch, ill gently caress around with that and see if it works. tyvm.
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May 6, 2020 18:32
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Thom P. Tiers posted:The difference from 32GB to 16GB will literally be unnoticeable for your friend and the easiest way to cut $80 out of the cost. A 1TB SSD these days is a pretty standard recommendation around here because games are so enormous these days, so I would keep that. Cool, yeah I figured dropping the extra RAM would be the thing to do. Any items that look weak and should be upgraded (for a small price) he said around 900 preferably, his absolute highest is 1200 but I'm trying to keep it on the lower end; 1k if I can really get some bang for the buck.
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May 6, 2020 19:08
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MF_James posted:Cool, yeah I figured dropping the extra RAM would be the thing to do. If they have a 1080p monitor this will pretty much run everything. It doesn't really make much sense to do anything else if that's the case. Arguably you could *downgrade* the processor to save some money and still run 1080p just fine. If they have a 1440P you could toss in a 2070S or 5700XT and hit the ~$1200 mark and run stuff at 1440p just fine.
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May 6, 2020 19:28
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I finally got my new motherboard and I noticed there's a spot that I don't have a connector for on my PSU. Does it matter? What's it there for? Is my motherboard going to run slower with nothing plugged in there or something?
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May 6, 2020 20:29
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The 8-pin cable right next to it often comes in a 4+4 split setup and that's the cable you need. What power supply are you using? Dual eatx 12v is pretty common. If that's a Maximus XI Hero the manual says you can use the 8 pin plug, or the 4 + the 8, but shouldn't use the 4 pin solo. It doesn't mention any ill effects and is probably unnecessary unless you're going OC crazy or are using a multi rail PSU. KS fucked around with this message at 20:45 on May 6, 2020 |
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May 6, 2020 20:42
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If I'm planning on a B450 based AM4 build, would waiting until B550 boards are released be worth while? From what I gather they'll be released mid-June, so barely more than a month away at this point. Sounds like that will bring PCIE 4.0, which in theory will increase compatibility with future high performance graphics cards and SSDs.
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May 6, 2020 20:57
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Chumbawumba4ever97 posted:I finally got my new motherboard and I noticed there's a spot that I don't have a connector for on my PSU. No, they don't matter. The mobo won't run at all without the main 8-pin ATX12V connector, but that extra 4-pin one is only required if you're drawing more power than the main connector can supply. Which you can't do with Ryzen unless you're using exotic cooling. So for normal people it's totally useless, but all these boards try to pitch themselves as "you can extreme OC with it!" as marketing. Splinter posted:If I'm planning on a B450 based AM4 build, would waiting until B550 boards are released be worth while? From what I gather they'll be released mid-June, so barely more than a month away at this point. Sounds like that will bring PCIE 4.0, which in theory will increase compatibility with future high performance graphics cards and SSDs. Compatibility is a non-issue as all PCIe is strictly backwards and forwards compatible. Current PCIe 3 GPUs have near-zero performance loss in games if you downgrade them to PCIe 2. Future PCIe 4 GPUs will probably be the same. NVMe drives can only saturate a PCIe 3 link with the most synthetic not-real benchmarks. Future drives will probably be faster, but the question is what application will fully use that speed. Desktop stuff barely uses NVMe speed over sata right now. tl;dr, PCIe 4 is not really a major thing for most people. B550 is still likely to be pretty nice just for increased quantity of IO. So if you don't desperately need a new PC right now waiting might be good. (Also stuff like PSUs will be far cheaper once supply lines open up again.) Klyith fucked around with this message at 21:12 on May 6, 2020 |
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May 6, 2020 21:02
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I need a bit of advice. I built a new system at the end of last year (thanks to reading this thread, as usual), though I kept my Zotac 970 video card and Dell U3415W. I went light on the system since money was an issue at the time. I'd like to upgrade my card and/or my monitor, mostly for Cyberpunk 2077 later this year, so no rush. The ultrawide format is really fun when the game supports it, but my card is old enough that some stuff I play struggles a bit (nothing twitchy, but it seems like g-sync / freesync would be a nice upgrade). It seems like a less-than-optimal time to buy parts so I figure I could ask if you folks think either a new card or new monitor (or both, I guess) would be worthwhile. For reference, these are my current parts. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor Motherboard: ASRock X570 Phantom Gaming 4 ATX AM4 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory Storage: Silicon Power A55 512 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4 GB Video Card ($0.00) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Monitor: Dell U3415W 34.0" 3440x1440 60 Hz Monitor Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-05-06 18:54 EDT-0400
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May 7, 2020 00:27
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Pcpartpicker is showing my wattage at 384W And the only PSU I’ve been able to find in stock is this one: (550W) https://www.newegg.com/evga-supernova-550-ga-220-ga-0550-x1-550w/p/1HU-00J7-004V3 Is this a good idea or should I wait for a different one to get stocked?
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May 7, 2020 00:40
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