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Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Yeah, I did spill a shitload of oatmeal in my stator cover, why do you ask?

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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Renaissance Robot posted:

Living my best life right now



I love working on 125s, everything's simple and small and just right there.

Pulled the left case off to double check what kind of stator I've got, and to take resistance readings from the other end of the leads to make absolutely sure the break is internal.




It... looks fine? Is it typical for a wire to break invisibly somewhere inside one of the windings?

Happens all the time, most bung stators look totally normal. I don't understand why you took it off though, you can check the continuity fine from the outside...?

E: upon closer inspection it doesn't look perfect, in the last picture you can see the burned area where one of the wires is soldered on.

Renaissance Robot
Oct 10, 2010

Bite my furry metal ass
I mostly took it off because googling "sinnis sc125 stator" returns a bunch of results for very different parts and I wanted to see what the one I have looks like to be certain of buying the right one. Also I'd have to take it off eventually anyway to do the replacement, and if some problem arose with that it's better to find out now than waiting until the spare parts get here.

Revvik
Jul 29, 2006
Fun Shoe




It runs guys it fuckin runs I bought a “ran when parked six years ago” and it fuckin RUNS THE PURPLE GL1100 RUNS

Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib
I'm very surprised it runs so soon. That's incredible. Mazel Tov!

Wait.... Does the purple one ALSO have a hitch on it?!

Revvik
Jul 29, 2006
Fun Shoe
Of course it does! It supposedly had a matching trailer but the P/O doesn’t know where it ended up.

How do you lose that kind of thing 😒

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Fuuuuuuuuuuck that’s awesome!

I love the design of those side cases. Extreme “80’s spaceship” energy

I’m telling you guys and I want it to be known that I called it, Vetter stuff is gonna come back around.

I love it.

Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 00:15 on May 8, 2020

Ulf
Jul 15, 2001

FOUR COLORS
ONE LOVE
Nap Ghost

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014


Chris Foss eat your loving heart out.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012


:perfect:

Gorson posted:

Chris Foss eat your loving heart out.

The magic words :swoon:

Revvik
Jul 29, 2006
Fun Shoe

I am all about this.

Renaissance Robot
Oct 10, 2010

Bite my furry metal ass
I'll say this for lockdown, it's doing wonders for my git'r'dun spirit.

Went to stick the :fivecbux: exhaust hangers I got on the 800 (after de-burring the insides; I really got what I paid for) and the screws holding the heat shield on were seized. Super seized. Went at them with heat, penetrating oil and a long allen wrench, nothing, just rounded out the heads. Thought "gently caress it, I want this fixed" and broke out the drill to take the heads off. Drill bit promptly lost its edge after barely making a dent.

gently caress it, I need at least one rideable bike and I'm not walking to the nearest place that'll sell me a new drill.



It'll do.


e/ I'd have mounted them further back, but the threads in those holes are all chewed up. I've got a set of taps supposedly arriving Monday so I can chase them out.

Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 12:35 on May 8, 2020

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001





:kiss:

Absolutely amazing. Move over wife, there’s a new phone background in town

mewse
May 2, 2006

Revvik posted:

It runs guys it fuckin runs I bought a “ran when parked six years ago” and it fuckin RUNS THE PURPLE GL1100 RUNS

Lol, congrats, one of the best feelings

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
After rebuilding my forks I went ahead and picked up some linkage bearings. Holy poo poo. I had no idea it would be this bad when I started. It's like misery porn. It's rusty from the outside so it's likely the inside is rusty too.



Just getting the bushings out is tough.


Once the bushings were out I could see the needle bearings and to say they were in a rough shape is the understatement of the century. Several needles were fused together in chucks. This bearing wasn't even able to spin.


In the pivot, I tried pressing the bearings out with a vise and I was able to get one bearing halfway out before I destroyed the sidewall of the bearing. My last available option was to cut them apart very carefully. Not ideal but I was out of options. They rusted and that really jammed them in there making it impossible to push out.



Once they were out, I gently cleaned up the hole with a wire wheel. I was able to press the new bearings in and install everything back on the bike making it feel so good and smooth.



Today I went to a dealership to pick up a new lower shock bolt and nut that cross threaded. I also bought some rear wheel bearings and waterproof grease. Holy poo poo does everything feel smooth now. Can't wait to ride. But holy poo poo. Don't neglect bearings. Grease everything that moves. Do it often.

Horse Clocks
Dec 14, 2004


After having a Cat put in the OEM one to get it passing emissions testing, I've gone ahead and removed the entire thing as it's never going to get tested again (It's a 30mile test, nobody's doing that roadside).



Now it needs a rejet as there is significant popping under deceleration. Looks like a PO has already done one, as the cheese screws have been replaced, and there's a fuel screw. I guess I need to crack open the carb to find out what jets are in there and what to replace them with.

Considering replacing the carb, but youch, 700 euros for a FCR39, or 900 for a FCR39 MX.

Also installed some foldy levers because lockdown is boring, and spending money is fun.

Horse Clocks fucked around with this message at 13:59 on May 9, 2020

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

Verman posted:

After rebuilding my forks I went ahead and picked up some linkage bearings. Holy poo poo. I had no idea it would be this bad when I started. It's like misery porn. It's rusty from the outside so it's likely the inside is rusty too.



Just getting the bushings out is tough.


Once the bushings were out I could see the needle bearings and to say they were in a rough shape is the understatement of the century. Several needles were fused together in chucks. This bearing wasn't even able to spin.


In the pivot, I tried pressing the bearings out with a vise and I was able to get one bearing halfway out before I destroyed the sidewall of the bearing. My last available option was to cut them apart very carefully. Not ideal but I was out of options. They rusted and that really jammed them in there making it impossible to push out.



Once they were out, I gently cleaned up the hole with a wire wheel. I was able to press the new bearings in and install everything back on the bike making it feel so good and smooth.



Today I went to a dealership to pick up a new lower shock bolt and nut that cross threaded. I also bought some rear wheel bearings and waterproof grease. Holy poo poo does everything feel smooth now. Can't wait to ride. But holy poo poo. Don't neglect bearings. Grease everything that moves. Do it often.

fixing hosed up stuff is one of the most satisfying parts of motorcycle ownership. good job dude

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Horse Clocks posted:

After having a Cat put in the OEM one to get it passing emissions testing, I've gone ahead and removed the entire thing as it's never going to get tested again (It's a 30mile test, nobody's doing that roadside).



Now it needs a rejet as there is significant popping under deceleration. Looks like a PO has already done one, as the cheese screws have been replaced, and there's a fuel screw. I guess I need to crack open the carb to find out what jets are in there and what to replace them with.

Considering replacing the carb, but youch, 700 euros for a FCR39, or 900 for a FCR39 MX.

Also installed some foldy levers because lockdown is boring, and spending money is fun.

FCRMX’s are spendy, but they are like a motor swap for a DRZ. Both of my DRZ’s I did the FCRMX swap and it was unbelievable how it changed the bike.

Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 18:06 on May 9, 2020

High Protein
Jul 12, 2009

Verman posted:

After rebuilding my forks I went ahead and picked up some linkage bearings. Holy poo poo. I had no idea it would be this bad when I started. It's like misery porn. It's rusty from the outside so it's likely the inside is rusty too.



Just getting the bushings out is tough.


Once the bushings were out I could see the needle bearings and to say they were in a rough shape is the understatement of the century. Several needles were fused together in chucks. This bearing wasn't even able to spin.


In the pivot, I tried pressing the bearings out with a vise and I was able to get one bearing halfway out before I destroyed the sidewall of the bearing. My last available option was to cut them apart very carefully. Not ideal but I was out of options. They rusted and that really jammed them in there making it impossible to push out.



Once they were out, I gently cleaned up the hole with a wire wheel. I was able to press the new bearings in and install everything back on the bike making it feel so good and smooth.



Today I went to a dealership to pick up a new lower shock bolt and nut that cross threaded. I also bought some rear wheel bearings and waterproof grease. Holy poo poo does everything feel smooth now. Can't wait to ride. But holy poo poo. Don't neglect bearings. Grease everything that moves. Do it often.

What bike/miles? Forded rivers with it?

Yerok
Jan 11, 2009

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

FCRMX’s are spendy, but they are like a motor swap for a DRZ. Both of my DRZ’s I did the FCRMX swap and it was unbelievable how it changed the bike.

You can get an ebay FCR40MX for about $100 off a 2006-2008 CRF250R (Casting #s FCR01C.A, FCR01D.A, FCR01E.A, respectively.) I put a $600 brand new Sudco FCR kit on my DRZ and after putting a hundred dollar FCR on my XR650R I will never buy a new FCR again.

Horse Clocks
Dec 14, 2004


Yerok posted:

You can get an ebay FCR40MX for about $100 off a 2006-2008 CRF250R (Casting #s FCR01C.A, FCR01D.A, FCR01E.A, respectively.) I put a $600 brand new Sudco FCR kit on my DRZ and after putting a hundred dollar FCR on my XR650R I will never buy a new FCR again.

If that works, maybe I’ll find a 2nd hand carb.

Quick search of EBay shows a used £300 DRZ-E keihn, and a new £120 FCR40MX off a CFR450R.

Is there a list of compatible carbs for the DRZ anywhere?

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

High Protein posted:

What bike/miles? Forded rivers with it?

2007 WR 250f (dirt model). I bought it as my first dirt bike two years ago. I always wanted one as a kid and never got one, I realized I want getting younger so I started looking. I had a limited budget ($3k) and ride trails in Washington state so a WR was the bike to get. It's also plated for street so while I don't use it as a road bike, it's legal but it's mostly for Forest roads to connect trails.

The guy I bought it from was a college kid who owned it for a year and needed cash. He said he probably put 50 hours on it and didn't have as much time to ride as he thought he would. Before him was the original owner, a guy who worked as a tech at the Yamaha dealership. I knew somewhat what to look for and with a tight budget I realized I wouldn't be getting a pristine machine but it was the cleanest and newest of 5 bikes I looked at. I also knew being my first bike, it's getting dropped, a lot. It's going to get crashed and beaten up. It's a dirt bike. WRs here in Washington hold their value really well and don't last long on Craigslist/marketplace, especially 250s. There were some little things obvious to me at the time which helped lower the price but others I couldn't see until I go to maintain it, like rusty linkage bearings.

Being a dirt bike, it's likely been in sand, mud, clay, water etc. That stuff is obviously tough on parts but routine maintenance can deal with all of it, mainly just washing your bike after rides and greasing bearings seasonally. Unfortunately a lot of people see dirt bikes as big toys and they get neglected because people don't want to spend the money or time maintaining them. I have no idea on the miles or hours of the bike because the computer doesn't really track it like an odometer. The odometer in the computer can be reset for races so it's not accurate. I've tracked my rides and maintenance on a spreadsheet. I'll be adding another ride today actually.

ADINSX
Sep 9, 2003

Wanna run with my crew huh? Rule cyberspace and crunch numbers like I do?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=feA64wXhbjo

Love that bike, glad to hear it runs. Can't wait to see it all cleaned up

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Fuuuuuuuuuuck that’s awesome!

I love the design of those side cases. Extreme “80’s spaceship” energy

I’m telling you guys and I want it to be known that I called it, Vetter stuff is gonna come back around.

I love it.

Hey I called this years ago when café racers started to wane in popularity.

I can't wait. That's so much extra real estate on a bike to do goofy poo poo with.

Shelvocke
Aug 6, 2013

Microwave Engraver
Put in a stahlbus oil drain valve.

On related note, I don't think 1000km oil changes on a dirt bike are that big a deal, but lots of people seem to complain about it? Seems like a low cost to pay for reliability

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

1000k is ten hours at 100km/h and that sucks arse? You could quadruple that and lose basically nothing, but all modern dirt bikes have to have ~racing~ credentials which means ultra sensitive short-lived engines with retarded service intervals.

Like, when 250F's are more expensive to rebuild than a 2t and have the same/even worse top-end lifespan, something's gone wrong.

Razzled
Feb 3, 2011

MY HARLEY IS COOL

Shelvocke posted:

Put in a stahlbus oil drain valve.

On related note, I don't think 1000km oil changes on a dirt bike are that big a deal, but lots of people seem to complain about it? Seems like a low cost to pay for reliability

After reading a few different in depth stories and accounts of taking a ktm 500 excf around the world i'm sold lol. Looking for a '20 six days now to turn into my new adv-lite bike

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


Razzled posted:

After reading a few different in depth stories and accounts of taking a ktm 500 excf around the world i'm sold lol. Looking for a '20 six days now to turn into my new adv-lite bike

Yeah, RTW Paul recently moved from a DR650 to one, which may be an indication of something.

Shelvocke
Aug 6, 2013

Microwave Engraver
I guess the chance of breaking down on a BMW or KTM is only a few percent higher than a Japanese bike if you look after it. But would I ride one through a hostile environment (tundra or desert) in a country with no infrastructure or phone reception? Absolutely not

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 

Shelvocke posted:

Put in a stahlbus oil drain valve.

On related note, I don't think 1000km oil changes on a dirt bike are that big a deal, but lots of people seem to complain about it? Seems like a low cost to pay for reliability

Just curious, did you go with the stahlbus because it’s a dirt bike and want less things hanging off your drain vs fumoto or ez-drain?

Razzled
Feb 3, 2011

MY HARLEY IS COOL

Shelvocke posted:

I guess the chance of breaking down on a BMW or KTM is only a few percent higher than a Japanese bike if you look after it. But would I ride one through a hostile environment (tundra or desert) in a country with no infrastructure or phone reception? Absolutely not

i know it's a pretty tired example, but dakar is over 7000 km long and performance brands/models dominate that race. you can argue that they are supported by the top mechanics and parts but i mean, your average rider buying production bikes off a dealer is not riding anywhere near that level also so the abuse to components is much less.

if you believe the accounts of guys doing round the world affairs, oil changes etc are easily stretched from the manual's recc to ~2-3k miles per change depending on riding conditions/habits

modern LC4 reliability is more or less on par with japanese poo poo (see: DRZ).

honestly the scariest part of ktm ownership to me is the dogshit warranty and the hassle of dealing with ktm for any warranty claims.

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

Razzled posted:

After reading a few different in depth stories and accounts of taking a ktm 500 excf around the world i'm sold lol. Looking for a '20 six days now to turn into my new adv-lite bike

Isn’t it only the 450 that’s sold as a six days model in the US? :smug:

Also, fwiw, the service intervals are for racing. Slavvy come to the states and ride my bike and then be happy about KTMs.*

* offer limited to their plated dirt bikes. Maybe 2Ts, I don’t know.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Razzled posted:

i know it's a pretty tired example, but dakar is over 7000 km long and performance brands/models dominate that race. you can argue that they are supported by the top mechanics and parts but i mean, your average rider buying production bikes off a dealer is not riding anywhere near that level also so the abuse to components is much less.

if you believe the accounts of guys doing round the world affairs, oil changes etc are easily stretched from the manual's recc to ~2-3k miles per change depending on riding conditions/habits

modern LC4 reliability is more or less on par with japanese poo poo (see: DRZ).

honestly the scariest part of ktm ownership to me is the dogshit warranty and the hassle of dealing with ktm for any warranty claims.

Lmao what? Literally never seen a drz that wasn't broken by a moron owner, lc4's happily gently caress out all by themselves all the time. The fact that your go-to benchmark is a mediocre 90's Japanese bike says it all.

builds character posted:

Isn’t it only the 450 that’s sold as a six days model in the US? :smug:

Also, fwiw, the service intervals are for racing. Slavvy come to the states and ride my bike and then be happy about KTMs.*

* offer limited to their plated dirt bikes. Maybe 2Ts, I don’t know.

I was responding to the post above mine, I also think the folk wisdom of racers abusing engines compared to Joe bloggs is overstated. Those Ti valves all the 250F's have happily stretch out even with amateurs on board and doing the oil more often won't change that. I'd rather do the occasional piston on a 2t than deal with that nonsense.

I've ridden enough ktm's to know why people like them. Charisma, aggression, that sense of feeling a bit special? Still has no bearing on whether they're poo poo or not.

High Protein
Jul 12, 2009
IF your LC4's decompression mechanism hasn't failed AND the cams haven't been chewed up by the rockers and/or just from being made of cheese AND you've gotten lucky in the oil consumption lottery (still, don't think of reaching the official interval without refills!) you could expect it to last up to 30km miles!

Shelvocke
Aug 6, 2013

Microwave Engraver

Martytoof posted:

Just curious, did you go with the stahlbus because it’s a dirt bike and want less things hanging off your drain vs fumoto or ez-drain?

Yeah the stahlbus looks visually a lot more tidy and robust, as well as simpler and better made overall. I think someone here recommended one about a year ago?

I'm obsessed with things that are as simple and hard wearing as possible, which leads me on to ..

Razzled posted:

i know it's a pretty tired example, but dakar is over 7000 km long and performance brands/models dominate that race. you can argue that they are supported by the top mechanics and parts but i mean, your average rider buying production bikes off a dealer is not riding anywhere near that level also so the abuse to components is much less.

if you believe the accounts of guys doing round the world affairs, oil changes etc are easily stretched from the manual's recc to ~2-3k miles per change depending on riding conditions/habits

modern LC4 reliability is more or less on par with japanese poo poo (see: DRZ).

honestly the scariest part of ktm ownership to me is the dogshit warranty and the hassle of dealing with ktm for any warranty claims.

I wrote a long effortpost about how reliability and manufacturer behaviour was philosophically much more important to me than having the bleeding edge in power to weight ratio, but then I realised I was just screaming into the void, so I'll paraphrase -

I have a fundamental problem with a company that spends most of the money they make from selling fragile highly strung racehorse technology at absurd prices on marketing then doesn't invest any time, money or energy in improving user experience, either from a maintenance, customer service or even peripheral reliability point of view.

Razzled
Feb 3, 2011

MY HARLEY IS COOL
What part of ktm maintenance is hard...? My 300 xcw is the easiest bike I’ve ever had to service.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Shelvocke posted:

I have a fundamental problem with a company that spends most of the money they make from selling fragile highly strung racehorse technology at absurd prices on marketing then doesn't invest any time, money or energy in improving user experience, either from a maintenance, customer service or even peripheral reliability point of view.

:yeah:

A Saturn rocket might be fast but I wouldn't want to daily one.

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

Gorson posted:

:yeah:

A Saturn rocket might be fast but I wouldn't want to daily one.

I daily my SAR and it's the best :D

also, to be on topic, I regreased all the swingarm bearings since I had it off the bike curing:



gonna go do the TN part of the TAT over memorial day weekend I think. loaded up my R40 with all my poo poo and still have room for a couple tall boys. might bring a mosko 22L drybag too so I can skip a backpack, but we'll see

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Razzled posted:

What part of ktm maintenance is hard...? My 300 xcw is the easiest bike I’ve ever had to service.

General ktm miasma: the double oil filters on the four strokes, the front axle you need a tool to pull out, the carb drain and pilot screw always pointing at the engine, bullshit wp forks that only work properly in certain years, bullshit direct shock that is neither easy nor convenient to remove, all the fiddly electrical stuff being haphazardly crammed under the tank with more priority on hiding it than anything else, the battery is always too loving small, the side stand switch on their road bikes is a loving digital hall effect sensor tied into the engine management, the aforementioned glass rockers, the fact that most of them don't let you take the head off with the engine still in the bije, there's often no hole to rotate the engine through so you have to use the back wheel/kick, on older models there's not even a TDC mark you need the KTM special tool to lock the crank, the two strokes have a horrendous crank design seemingly designed to resist being rebuilt.

I can't think of more stuff atm cause I'm taking a dump and it's time to wipe soon.

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GriszledMelkaba
Sep 4, 2003


I wipe like I do maintenance on my ktm/husqvarnas: I don't

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