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Javid posted:How diyable is a u-joint on a 91 Dakota? U-joints on basically anything with a solid axle are pretty easy, at least conceptually. Remove the clips, remove the caps, remove the center section, installation is the reverse of removal. Physically the level of challenge depends on how cooperative the parts are about coming apart, which is typically inversely proportional to the amount of road salt the vehicle has experienced. I'm pretty sure you also want to make sure to maintain the alignment between the shaft and yoke and not put it back together 180 degrees out, so if the current joint isn't hosed to the point of freespinning then you should probably mark how they line up. If it's spun around, then just put it back together however you feel like and be prepared to take it apart and rotate the axle a few times if it feels shaky.
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May 8, 2020 00:16
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An update on the 2005 Ford Focus. I got all the pistons nice and dry, visual inspection show no standing gas. I got spark. all the coils work I got fuel to the fuel rail. Injectors are not hosing out constantly. I went to take off the fuel rail sensor to visually verify I had fuel to the rail, and I did not need to prime the fuel system. The sensor split in half in my hand, the circuit board inside soaked and shorted out from gas, the sealant disintegrated to the touch. Engine turns over though, no longer hydro-locking on fuel. Progress!
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May 8, 2020 00:55
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 Yeah that'll gently caress it up good.
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May 8, 2020 01:55
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What’s the best way to figure out what’s behind the carpet in the trunk where the light spot is? I’d like to be able to mount an extra first aid kit box in there.  I don’t want to be dropping some screws into critical wiring like an idiot.
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May 8, 2020 02:35
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devmd01 posted:What’s the best way to figure out what’s behind the carpet in the trunk where the light spot is? I’d like to be able to mount an extra first aid kit box in there. Most carpeting is held in place with a few fasteners of some sort. Peel it back and take a look. You shouldn't be able to short out anything with a dropped screw, anyway. It should all be covered up. Should be, anyway.
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May 8, 2020 02:47
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devmd01 posted:What’s the best way to figure out what’s behind the carpet in the trunk where the light spot is? I’d like to be able to mount an extra first aid kit box in there. Could you glue some velcro onto the back of the kit box?
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May 8, 2020 02:49
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DesperateDan posted:Yeah, mustie1 on youtube- he does lots of vw air-cooled stuff, I have been watching that as background a lot to the point where I feel I could probably start loving around with one myself and know where things are/what to expect tater_salad posted:The good news is old VW's are relatively easy to work on. I owned a Karman ghia (same motor different body) and did things like pull the motor with the help of 1 person and a jack, rebuilt that motor on my own with hand-tools. Get yourself a nice set of metrics wrenches and sockets, get like 3 13mm wrenches there are so many 13mm bolts and nuts, and usually 9mm for the smaller ones. and then 17, 19mm for bigger ones. Deteriorata posted:The key to breaking through the barrier of intimidation is to start with something small and easy. It doesn't really matter what. It also doesn't matter if you fix it right the first time. Do the best you can and don't worry about it. If your work sucks, you'll figure it out and will come back and fix it properly later. Get in the habit of working on the car regularly, not just when you feel like it. Thanks guys, appreciate the advice!
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May 8, 2020 03:04
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wolrah posted:U-joints on basically anything with a solid axle are pretty easy, at least conceptually. Remove the clips, remove the caps, remove the center section, installation is the reverse of removal. That looks pretty straightforward, so cool. I have now been informed that it's been like that for "a while", and it sounds pretty horrific, so I took some closer photos:   How much of this can be safely reused?
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May 8, 2020 05:31
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All of it except the cross, but you may want to de-burr those 3/8" bolt heads before reassembly. Be mindful of driving in the new bearing caps. I had a 50% fail rate on my Chryslers. The damned cross was always too tight, but I had to drive it in far enough to get the spring clips on. It can be a difficult balancing act. It's a damned sight easier with an arbor press.
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May 8, 2020 06:13
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It's like Death tax whining about small Farmers too stubborn to register the farm as a business
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May 8, 2020 07:20
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I'm moving to Colorado next month and I need a reliable 4wd suv, pickup, or wagon to get myself to the mountains when it's snowing. Budget is 12k. Any suggestions?
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May 8, 2020 15:15
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Partial Octopus posted:I'm moving to Colorado next month and I need a reliable 4wd suv, pickup, or wagon to get myself to the mountains when it's snowing. Budget is 12k. If you don’t care about gas mileage, 07+ Toyota tundra. If you do, find a Subaru. Be warned, the tundra is far more reliable.
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May 8, 2020 15:39
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Where are you now? If it's somewhere that there isn't much rust, a Subaru would probably be significantly cheaper to buy there than Colorado. They command a very high price here. If you're not used to snow, please remember that 4 wheel drive doesn't make you stop any faster, heavier cars are harder to stop, start, or turn, especially in bad traction, and an unloaded truck bed wants to fishtail all over the place. I'm a fan of my Subaru, but the EJ25 earned its head gasket devouring reputation very thoroughly in the early days so it's hard to tell when it actually got fixed, and I guess the EZ30s don't have enough cooling capacity in their radiators. Don't know about the F-series of engines, way too new for my budget.
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May 8, 2020 17:54
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Where are you buying the car? In Colorado?
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May 8, 2020 18:59
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I'm driving my Miata up to colorado at the end of the month. I'm very experienced and comfortable driving in the snow. Currently I live in philly and can get by with snow tires on my Miata but I just want something that can fit snowboards and not get stuck in the snow due to ground clearance issues. The reason I'm looking for 4WD is just so that I don't get stuck if I end up driving in blizzard conditions. The Tundra might be a bit too large for me personally. Also that was a good point about the unloaded truck beds. Perhaps an SUV would be a better option. I was considering something like an Xterra but I'm not sure how reliable they are. And yeah I most likely will be buying the car in Colorado.
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May 8, 2020 19:11
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Sounds like you already know this, but include in the budget snow tires + maybe extra wheels if you want to make it easier to swap.
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May 8, 2020 19:19
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Yeah. I would most likely just grab a set of steelies from tire rack or something. I factored that into my budget. Also the budget is just a ballpark, I don't mind going a bit over or under.
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May 8, 2020 19:22
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What's a good TPMS to put on my new wheels?
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May 8, 2020 19:25
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taqueso posted:What's a good TPMS to put on my new wheels? What kind of car do you have?
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May 8, 2020 19:30
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Charles posted:What kind of car do you have? 2004 xc90 with no stock tpms system. I was thinking about reading the sensors with SDR and the car pc
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May 8, 2020 19:39
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taqueso posted:2004 xc90 with no stock tpms system. I was thinking about reading the sensors with SDR and the car pc Oh I see, it was kind of ambiguous what you wanted to do. If people here don't have the answer, you might cross post to the tire thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3887596
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May 8, 2020 20:06
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Partial Octopus posted:I'm driving my Miata up to colorado at the end of the month. I'm very experienced and comfortable driving in the snow. Currently I live in philly and can get by with snow tires on my Miata but I just want something that can fit snowboards and not get stuck in the snow due to ground clearance issues. The reason I'm looking for 4WD is just so that I don't get stuck if I end up driving in blizzard conditions. If you did decide you wanted a Subaru I would definitely recommend buying in PA assuming you can find a rust-free example. Seems like there's a strong Subaru culture in PA and they seem cheaper than in CO. For reference, when I wrecked my '99 poverty-spec Outback Sport with 207k miles at the end of 2017 the insurance company valued it at $3900. Are you not bringing any stuff with you? If you're going to be bringing a truck on another trip you could haul a car. I've got a friend with an XTerra that likes it, but I'm not sure how much work he's needed to do on it. He's done a lot of work on it to make it better for offroading, not sure how much was needed to keep it on the road, but it's well over 200k miles at this point. One thing about CO (maybe not so much the high country) is that it's dry enough we don't get massive amounts of snow, sunny enough that the roads tend to melt pretty fast, and the snowplows are pretty on the ball. I'm rarely driving on snow for more than a day, excluding the small residential streets I'm only taking for a few blocks to get to the major streets.
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May 9, 2020 03:04
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22 Eargesplitten posted:If you did decide you wanted a Subaru I would definitely recommend buying in PA assuming you can find a rust-free example. Seems like there's a strong Subaru culture in PA and they seem cheaper than in CO. For reference, when I wrecked my '99 poverty-spec Outback Sport with 207k miles at the end of 2017 the insurance company valued it at $3900. Are you not bringing any stuff with you? If you're going to be bringing a truck on another trip you could haul a car. You would have thought we lived on a glacier the way people freaked out about the side streets this year. I am confirming this whole post.
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May 9, 2020 03:32
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I will say they didn't seem to do as well with the snowplowing this year, kind of disappointed. Then again, I was working nights for a good portion of our snowy season so I saw a different time of day than most people. Still had a couple dicey nights on the highway with a few inches of fresh snow where I was doing 30-40 in a Subaru with snow tires and guys in big trucks blew by me doing 60.
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May 9, 2020 03:50
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When off-roaders do the thing where you inflate a tire that is off the bead by igniting starting fluid, is it reliable? I realized I've never seen a fail.
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May 9, 2020 16:21
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taqueso posted:When off-roaders do the thing where you inflate a tire that is off the bead by igniting starting fluid, is it reliable? I realized I've never seen a fail. The only way for it to fail is to use way too much and destroy the tire. You would have to use A LOT, but I'm sure some dumb rear end has done it. Otherwise it works fine.
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May 9, 2020 17:20
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Yep, one of those cool when it works but yikes when it doesn't.
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May 9, 2020 17:24
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C-Bangin' it 
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Motronic posted:The only way for it to fail is to use way too much and destroy the tire. You would have to use A LOT, but I'm sure some dumb rear end has done it.
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May 9, 2020 18:11
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Would it work on a low aspect ratio / low volume tire like a sports car with 20s? e: obligatory I have no plans to try just curious
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May 9, 2020 18:12
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Did the same thing once with propane on a tubeless wheel barrel tire. Also seen it done (ether) and the guy that did it burned the poo poo out of his hand, and I had to take him to the hospital.
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May 9, 2020 18:23
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Finally got around to inspecting the serpentine belt situation today. Found two things: First the power steering pump pulley is wobbling along the shaft axis. (So wobbles in-out, but not tilting around) I checked to see if the pulley was loose on the shaft, but the entire shaft seems to be going back-and-forth There are no leaks or anything, but I assume that's still bad, especially since the serpentine belt is fresh-ish but already getting worn to the cords on the edges. Is that an indicator that I should pull the whole pump and put in a new one, or does it just need a bearing replaced or something like that? Secondly, the tensioner is not in fact wobbling, but it does have THIS going on, anyone know what the hell would cause it?  Edit: the parts that are bumpy are not scoring, like a rock got trapped in there or whatever, they are actually raised. They look a little bit like welding boogers, but I'm sincerely hoping nobody snuck under the hood of my car at night and booger-welded my tensioner pulley. DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 18:56 on May 9, 2020 |
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May 9, 2020 18:26
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YES! Focus starts, blowing a lot of smoke at the moment, but it has so much excess fuel in the exhaust thats to be expected. Had to floor the pedal, PCM went into flooded start mapping, held down the starter for about a minute, and it finally started to fire and sputter. Another minute, it turns over and cleared up. Still smoking, but letting it idle for ten minutes its finally starting to clear up. Need to monitor oil and coollant for a while, make sure the gaskets are fine, as well as getting it an oil change. Dont got any way to dispose of oil here or i would do it myself. Gas intrusion in the oil an all from when it was hydro-locking on gas. But the loving thing runs again.
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May 9, 2020 19:58
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I posted in here a while back about the brakes in my 07 Tacoma. Quick recap, the issue is long travel on the pedal, with full engagement near the end of the pedal stroke. I can feel them start to bite about where you’d expect them to, but then the pedal keeps going without much increase in brake power till near the end. Pads, rotors, shoes, and drums are fine. I just installed speed bleeders and flushed each line completely with new fluid. Done a couple hard brakes in reverse from 15-20 mph. Nothing has changed. One other symptom is the parking brake will not hold if the truck wants to roll forward, but it does in reverse. Is there something as simple as a pushrod adjustment on the pedal? Am I not done bleeding or flushing? I can’t find a leak anywhere and I’m starting to worry that I need a new booster. How complex a job is that? For reference, it’s the old style donut booster on the firewall, not the weird full time electronic one that showed up on some gen 2 Tacomas. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 20:58 on May 9, 2020 |
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May 9, 2020 20:56
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kid sinister posted:Oh my loving God. I finally got off the bracket that was covering the top rivet of the rear left top shock mount. A PO added a giant L beam section against the frame and truck bed so that they could hold down the 5th wheel hitch to this F250. The only problem is that instead of notching or drilling a hole in this plate to fit over the top rivet of the shock mount, they ground the rivet head off. No pounding it out and replacing it with a bolt, just ground the head off. SON OF A BITCH! They did it on the other side too! On a hunch, I checked on the other side. This is why you trust your instincts, folks. Previous owners who hosed up once will gladly to it twice with symmetric parts.
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May 9, 2020 22:06
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:I posted in here a while back about the brakes in my 07 Tacoma. Quick recap, the issue is long travel on the pedal, with full engagement near the end of the pedal stroke. I can feel them start to bite about where you’d expect them to, but then the pedal keeps going without much increase in brake power till near the end. Pads, rotors, shoes, and drums are fine. I just installed speed bleeders and flushed each line completely with new fluid. Done a couple hard brakes in reverse from 15-20 mph. Nothing has changed. One other symptom is the parking brake will not hold if the truck wants to roll forward, but it does in reverse. You may need to manually dial in your rear shoes with a brake spoon. If the adjusters aren't lubricated propery, they tend to get sticky and will not spin out to take up the slack. Either that, or you have air in your lines...but the braking behaviour is a tell.
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May 9, 2020 23:23
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PainterofCrap posted:You may need to manually dial in your rear shoes with a brake spoon. If the adjusters aren't lubricated propery, they tend to get sticky and will not spin out to take up the slack. Cool, thank you. I will look up the service bulletin or see what they say on Tacoma World for that process. I’m pretty sure I got all the air out of the lines, but I guess it’s possible there’s another source of it somewhere.
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May 10, 2020 01:28
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I'm wondering if anyone can help me identifying a rattling sound on my 2002 Volvo XC70 2.4 T. https://imgur.com/gallery/6Kv62mg (Sorry about the wind noises, but the rattling sound should be audible.) The sounds occurs for a short while after starting the engine and at low RPM. When recording it I asked my GF to operate the throttle when the car was running for about 5 minutes and she couldn't replicate the sound. After shutting down the engine and starting again right away it happened again, which is when I made the recording. Some googling and the comments on Imgur suggest a vibrating exhaust heat shield or catalytic converter. When the sound occurs the catalytic converter and front silencer do seem to be vibrating, but I have no clue if this is normal or not. Is there a way to make sure one of these things is the actual problem? Also am I right in assuming that the part visible on the video is the heat shield? Google isn't helping here.
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May 10, 2020 13:58
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The intermittent buzzing sounds like a heat shield being set off by harmonic vibration. If it is, you should be able to accelerate slowly until you hit the right RPM to set that baby off. Cheap solution is to get a 4" or larger strap clamp for plumbing & install it around the cat. Cheaper is to run a piece of 14-ga or higher copper wire around it & give it a few twists.
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May 10, 2020 14:19
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Cool, thank you. I will look up the service bulletin or see what they say on Tacoma World for that process. I’m pretty sure I got all the air out of the lines, but I guess it’s possible there’s another source of it somewhere. Painter of carp is right, try using a brake spoon. The backing up and ramming on the brakes thing "works", but typically not very well unless all the stars and planets are aligned. Which in my experience is never, though its supposed to. Take the adjusters out, wire wheel the entire things and then use a good brake lube for them. Ninja edit: Also in my experience, when you adjust them, one gets turned one way, the other gets turned the opposite way.
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May 10, 2020 15:56
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gently caress drum brakes.
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May 10, 2020 17:14
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