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Hello fellow pc part pickers, I came to a funny realization today: I did not buy my father in law speakers for his computer. What are folks buying these days? His usage of them is Zoom, random news videos, and videos of the grandkids. He has a NUC10 I7 and a Dell Ultrasharp U271?? (the nice one, not the U2718Q but the one a resolution step down from that.) Need to have: Hardwired - no batteries, no bluetooths Physical volume knob in obvious spot No subwoofer / kickin bass Ideal: Powered off some existing bus, not a power brick "Clear voice" setting Power control is either integral to the volume knob, or is otherwise hidden away. No other knobs, buttons, or anything else for him to fiddle with lest he "reboot his computer" by pressing them. Ninja edit: I will ask him about headphones, but I doubt he will want them.
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May 19, 2020 00:12
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Back with a new question(s) about a build I did a couple weeks ago. Was recommended the Fractal Design cases and splurged a little up to the new Define 7. The case comes with three 3 pin case fans. Like their past few cases, it has a fan hub that you can use if you want. I also added a Noctua NH-D15 cooler which has two 4 pin fans. Here's their recommended instructions for hooking things up with the hub.  I initially did things as shown above, but didn't really like the results sound wise. With the hub taking temp readings through the CPU fan header, it was (If I understand how things work correctly) converting the PWM signal from that header into a DC signal for the attached 3 pin fans. The result was that the three case fans were speeding up and down right along with the CPU cooler fans. Fractal case or not - it was louder than I wanted. Instead, I've taken the 4 pin connectors from the two Noctua fans and used the Y connector that came with the cooler to plug them both directly into the CPU fan header. Right now, I have the three 3 pin case fans plugged into the fan hub, and have instead plugged the fan hub into the nearest Sys_fan header - sys_fan3. I would assume that if I now go into my bios and set a fan curve for sys_fan3 that the fan hub would use that curve to control the speed of the attached 3 pin fans. Questions: - I've seen conflicting information in a few places stating that the Fractal fan hub won't do anything but run 3 pin fans at full speed without a 4 pin fan plugged into the first location. Anyone know if that's true? Doesn't really seem that they're running full speed to me as things are right now. - If I go into the bios, given the above set up - should I set the sys-fan3 header to pwm or DC? They're 3 pin fans connected to the hub, but the connector from the hub to the header is 4 pin. I assume DC, but thought I'd ask. Sidenote - the MSI Dragon Center app gets no data regarding fan speed when I'm looking at sys_fan3. I believe that's expected with 3 pin fans, correct? Honestly thinking I should scrap using the hub at all, plug the three case fans into the sys_fan headers and just set three curves and be done with it.
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May 19, 2020 00:15
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H110Hawk posted:Hello fellow pc part pickers, I came to a funny realization today: I did not buy my father in law speakers for his computer. What are folks buying these days? His usage of them is Zoom, random news videos, and videos of the grandkids. I think the Creative Labs Pebble meets most (maybe all?) your requirements. It'll at least do power over USB, which looks like is your most restrictive requirement. You could ask in IYG, too, if they have any other ideas.
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May 19, 2020 00:59
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demostars posted:I think the Creative Labs Pebble meets most (maybe all?) your requirements. It'll at least do power over USB, which looks like is your most restrictive requirement. You could ask in IYG, too, if they have any other ideas. Thanks! I know I'm over thinking it. I ordered these off Amazon, they won't ship for a week or two so it's perfect to mull over with a backstop in place. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 01:26 on May 19, 2020 |
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May 19, 2020 01:10
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Tony Phillips posted:- I've seen conflicting information in a few places stating that the Fractal fan hub won't do anything but run 3 pin fans at full speed without a 4 pin fan plugged into the first location. Anyone know if that's true? Doesn't really seem that they're running full speed to me as things are right now. I'm pretty sure it converts the incoming PWM signal into DC voltage for the 3-pin side, and I don't see why it should need a PWM fan plugged in to make that work. Only 1 fan's RPM speed gets reported back to the mobo as per the diagram, which might be the trouble for some people. The case fans that come with the case are fairly low speed but I'd assume if they were running at full speed you'd feel that they were at least a little bit noisy. But you can test that easily by going into the BIOS and pulling up the fan speed chart for SYS3 and just dragging the first point on the fan graph up and down in PWM mode. On the MSI boards that changes things live. You should be able to hear the difference. Tony Phillips posted:- If I go into the bios, given the above set up - should I set the sys-fan3 header to pwm or DC? They're 3 pin fans connected to the hub, but the connector from the hub to the header is 4 pin. I assume DC, but thought I'd ask. You want the signal going from the mobo into the controller to be PWM always. It's got a chip on it that does PWM to DC conversion. Tony Phillips posted:Honestly thinking I should scrap using the hub at all, plug the three case fans into the sys_fan headers and just set three curves and be done with it. If you have enough fan headers on the mobo to run your fans, the hub is pretty superfluous IMO. You got a tomahawk, those have plenty of fan headers. Plus then you get RPM info for all of them with HWinfo or whatnot, which may be helpful if you do further tuning.
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May 19, 2020 01:57
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Klyith posted:Things Thanks yet again. I had sys_fan3 set to DC in the bios and couldn't really tell any difference regardless of what I set the points to. Playing with the curve in bios or with the MSI Dragon Center utility didn't seem to do anything. Switching it over to PWM made it instantly drop to a whisper. A "Oh poo poo now I'm gonna have to watch temps cause I'm paranoid" whisper. So quiet you'd think they're not on. So no - no need for a 4 pin fan in the Fractal hub to get it to work. Oddly enough, I think they may very well have been running at 100%. Now that moving the dots around the fan curve does something - the prior noise level seems to match 100%. Side note again - I had ended up buying an old 450b Tomahawk that needed to flash the bios to make it work with the 3700x. As such - it downgraded me to the older non GUI version of the bios. (Something about the mobo not having enough on board memory for the newer bios version while working with the new Ryzens.) No nice click and drag fan curves for me. Kinda used to keyboard navigation for what little playing around in bios I've done over the year anyway, so no big deal there. Edit - guess I do have one more question. Is there a preferred sensor to use when setting a curve for case fans? I went with "system" instead of "cpu" or "vr mos" I think there might have been a 4th option as well that I'm forgetting. I've run HWinfo for a few hours, and even while gaming the system temp doesn't seem to fluctuate too much - low to upper 30s C. Just planning on setting the fans at a level I like up to 40 or so and forget about it. Unless there's some reason to do it otherwise? Tony Phillips fucked around with this message at 02:57 on May 19, 2020 |
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May 19, 2020 02:51
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Is there a downside to getting a 1200w psu if I only need 600w or so? I am really struggling to find anything out there that will ship in the next month but I see a decent 1200w for like $300 that I can get this week.
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May 19, 2020 03:27
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Disargeria posted:Is there a downside to getting a 1200w psu if I only need 600w or so? I am really struggling to find anything out there that will ship in the next month but I see a decent 1200w for like $300 that I can get this week. Spending $300 is the main one. Also a lot of mondo 1KW+ power supplies are bigger than normal, so you should look at the dimensions and if that works in your case. Newegg seemed to restock mid-week for the last couple weeks, you were like 1 days late for getting normal seasonics the last time you posted. And another option is to get something cheap and crappy to use for the next few months -- turn down various power options on your CPU and GPU if necessary to stay under the limit. Then get something decent when stock is available and pull the cheap one for backup duty. Having a backup PSU around is extremely worth it, I find. Tony Phillips posted:Switching it over to PWM made it instantly drop to a whisper. A "Oh poo poo now I'm gonna have to watch temps cause I'm paranoid" whisper. So quiet you'd think they're not on.  mode as well.Tony Phillips posted:Edit - guess I do have one more question. Is there a preferred sensor to use when setting a curve for case fans? I went with "system" instead of "cpu" or "vr mos" I think there might have been a 4th option as well that I'm forgetting. I've run HWinfo for a few hours, and even while gaming the system temp doesn't seem to fluctuate too much - low to upper 30s C. Just planning on setting the fans at a level I like up to 40 or so and forget about it. Unless there's some reason to do it otherwise? And that's a fine plan, though you may want to check your GPU temps while playing games to see how that's doing. If the GPU gets toasty (depending on the card this is upper 60s through the 70s) then you may need more input air just to push air to the GPU. The GPU can sometimes make a hot pocket where it's just recirculating hot air around itself in cases with big low-velocity fans.
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May 19, 2020 04:10
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Disargeria posted:Is there a downside to getting a 1200w psu if I only need 600w or so? I am really struggling to find anything out there that will ship in the next month but I see a decent 1200w for like $300 that I can get this week. Not really, I mean, the optimal efficiency of most PSUs is at around 50% draw but the 80+ ratings, especially gold and platinum have good efficiency through a lot of different loads. That is a lot to spend on one PSU, though. There's some for sale at best buy but not for shipping, only for stores that have stock that may be worth looking at. There's some of these on office depot but they're selling out fast. It's not an amazing PSU but it'll work and it's actually available for now: https://www.officedepot.com/a/products/6902215/Gigabyte-P650B-Power-Supply-Internal-33/ If you literally can't find anything else I've used one of these in a build. It's almost ATX, in that it fits the profile except it's really long and the fan sticks out so that it won't work in every case. I couldn't fit it into a case with a "basement" cover because the fan hit it, but I did fit it into one where it was mounted on top. It's big. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lenovo-Thi...sIAAOSw58ZetdaS There's also bronze ones that are cheaper but will have the same fitment issues: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Le...zwAAOSwrkJeu0v~
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May 19, 2020 04:16
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Disargeria posted:Is there a downside to getting a 1200w psu if I only need 600w or so? I am really struggling to find anything out there that will ship in the next month but I see a decent 1200w for like $300 that I can get this week. There no real downside outside of what Klyith mentioned, but I checked real quick to see if I could find something in stock somewhere common and might be something you want to keep for a while and I found this on Amazon for $135: SilverStone PS-ST60F-TI Silverstone doesn't have the greatest warranty length (5 years versus 10 from someone like EVGA, Corsair, or SeaSonic), but I doubt it is going to explode a day out of warranty. The biggest issue I see with this unit is ripple (and not having a rear power switch for some reason?), but the biggest advantage is that you can actually buy it right now. Obviously, you might not see this post by the time people realize it's available and snatch it up, so if that's the case you can still get the big boy PSU or one of the other PSUs people have found.
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May 19, 2020 04:24
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Thank you, thank you, and thank you!
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May 19, 2020 04:29
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H110Hawk posted:Thanks! I know I'm over thinking it. I ordered these off Amazon, they won't ship for a week or two so it's perfect to mull over with a backstop in place. Just to add, my wife picked these up for her work from home setup a couple of weeks ago and she loves them. Great basic speakers.
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May 19, 2020 14:34
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I'm slowly grabbing pieces for a new PC build, and I am curious if there is any significant problem with plugging the CPU cooler into the case fan plug, and the case fan into the CPU cooler plug? The physical layout of the case+mobo and where the case fan will be makes cable management simpler if the headers used on the mobo are swapped.
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May 19, 2020 14:58
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Scruff McGruff posted:Just to add, my wife picked these up for her work from home setup a couple of weeks ago and she loves them. Great basic speakers. Thanks!
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May 19, 2020 14:58
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Mistikman posted:I'm slowly grabbing pieces for a new PC build, and I am curious if there is any significant problem with plugging the CPU cooler into the case fan plug, and the case fan into the CPU cooler plug? In some, but not all, mobo BIOSes you can map fans to different temperature sensors and set custom fan curves. There are also some apps that can do the work from windows but BIOS might be preferable as a 'set and forget' solution. Since the CPU fan connector is plugged in you won't have any 'cpu fan stall' error messages.
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May 19, 2020 15:03
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Mistikman posted:I'm slowly grabbing pieces for a new PC build, and I am curious if there is any significant problem with plugging the CPU cooler into the case fan plug, and the case fan into the CPU cooler plug? No, but most mobos have pre-set fan curves for the CPU fan so you'll need to go into the BIOS and switch the curves around to match. (And re-do it if you ever have to clear bios.) Also most CPU fans are PWM so whatever secondary plug you're using will need to be a PWM (4 pin) one. Cable management / routing of fan wires is really not worth even the minor added hassle though. They're invisibly tiny at anything more than arm's length, so even in a looks-focused build with fetishistic cable hiding it's kinda pointless.
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May 19, 2020 15:14
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I looked a bit at what I'll have available in the BIOS, and it looks like I'll be able to swap it there. Essentially, the fan is being installed at the bottom of the case, and will be like an inch away from the CPU fan header. The case fan header it literally on the farthest corner of the motherboard from the fan, and I don't really want to run the power cord from the fan all the way across the entire motherboard unless I have to. I really want this build to be really clean for once, most of my prior builds have been messy as hell wrt cable management.
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May 19, 2020 15:26
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Good news, B450 owners and prospective builders! The Ryzen 4000 CPUs will be supported on 400-series motherboards after all.
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May 19, 2020 15:34
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Klyith posted:Good news, B450 owners and prospective builders! Guess that thread title will get another couple years of use.
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May 19, 2020 15:51
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dublish posted:Guess that thread title will get another couple years of use. Does anyone know how Zen2 compatibility on B350 boards was handled vis-a-vis retail? With them officially being 'beta' BIOSes I could see them not shipping with a compatible BIOS. '
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May 19, 2020 16:41
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Klyith posted:Sweet! That's what I like about enclosed cases like that fractal, when they're idle and have fans low they're pretty much silent. And neat that the MSI fan stuff still does live changes with the simple text version rather than the full GUI. I wasn't sure about that -- I plan to put a 3000 into my X370 board which will put me in problems. CPU temp bounces around a bit under normal surfing - will probably just set it's fan high enough to not hear it ramp up and down so much. Slightly louder at idle, but more steady.Klyith posted:System is the mobo chipset, and it's about the best you get for overall temp outside of fancier boards that have extra sensors.
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May 19, 2020 16:50
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Some Goon posted:Does anyone know how Zen2 compatibility on B350 boards was handled vis-a-vis retail? With them officially being 'beta' BIOSes I could see them not shipping with a compatible BIOS. By the time zen 2 was out the 300-series boards had stopped production and anything on shelves was old stock, so they never even debated the question. For B450 there are a couple options. For the Tomahawk Max as an example: 1. Update shipping boards as soon as 4000-series bioses are available, using the full 32mb BIOS chip to support many CPUs and fancy GUIs. This makes these boards not support older Zen (1) & Zen+ chips which can't read over 16mb BIOS sizes. Presumably the boxes would get a new sticker to indicate this. 2. Keep the shipping BIOS as-is and issue the Zen 3 support as an optional BIOS, using the CPU-less flashback so that people aren't stuck. Other boards that don't have flashback or 32mb BIOS chips would have fewer options, and probably will handle it like 3_0: have a beta bios on the website and you have to have a pre-zen 3 cpu to flash. But MSI is the one that's been promoting future support most. Tony Phillips posted:CPU temp bounces around a bit under normal surfing - will probably just set it's fan high enough to not hear it ramp up and down so much. Slightly louder at idle, but more steady.
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May 19, 2020 17:19
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Mihi posted:I'm looking for recommendations for my first self built PC. I'm currently using something my brother built for me almost 10 years ago now and I think my motherboard is dying as I get random full lockups and sometimes my mouse and keyboard stop working (have tried multiple mice and keyboards and USB ports so I know it's not an issue with the individual peripherals). I posted on pcpartpicker for suggestions and got recommended the following PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600 (12nm) 3.2 GHz 6-Core Processor (£104.97 @ CCL Computers) Motherboard: MSI B450M-A PRO MAX Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£58.98 @ Amazon UK) Memory: Patriot Viper 4 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£68.80 @ Ebuyer) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (£67.48 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Seagate BarraCuda 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (£33.58 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: PowerColor Radeon RX 5600 XT 6 GB Red Dragon Video Card (£280.47 @ Scan.co.uk) Case: Deepcool MATREXX 30 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£28.47 @ Scan.co.uk) Power Supply: be quiet! System Power 9 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£50.36 @ Amazon UK) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit (£99.00 @ Amazon UK) Case Fan: ARCTIC ACFAN00133A 56.3 CFM 120 mm Fan (£5.99 @ Amazon UK) Monitor: AOC C24G1 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor (£182.99 @ Amazon UK) Total: £981.09 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-05-19 18:34 BST+0100 Would this be a good build for what I'm looking for?
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May 19, 2020 18:36
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Mihi posted:Would this be a good build for what I'm looking for? Get your windows 10 license for free by re-using a win7 key if you have one from an old PC, otherwise buy it for $20 from the SA mart goon. If your budget is trying to stay at £800, get a 1660 Super or a RX 580 rather than the 5600XT, which isn't the best bang/buck card in the first place. BeQuiet's cheapest range of PSUs is not great. A seasonic focus gold 450 is just 10 more and better long-term quality.
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May 19, 2020 18:58
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Mihi posted:I posted on pcpartpicker for suggestions and got recommended the following This list looks pretty good. I might recommend foregoing the HDD initially, as long as you're not installing 4+ AAA games on there 500gb will probably be fine for a while. I'm also not a great judge of GPUs so someone else might be able to say if that's a decent value in this build. The Windows key you can get on SA Mart or Reddit for  and it should work just fine.efb Scruff McGruff fucked around with this message at 20:01 on May 19, 2020 |
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May 19, 2020 19:08
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I'm way out of the loop on building PCs so can someone tell me what the most cost-effective upgrade I can make is? Trying to run something like AssCreed Odyssey at 15 FPS in cities is getting too rough. Current build: RAM: 16GB DDR3 (NB 2200 MHz / DRAM 666MHz) MOBO: Asus Sabertooth Z97 Mk 2 CPU: Intel i5 4570 GPU: GeForce GTX 970
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May 19, 2020 20:06
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A four core CPU like yours will definitely hold you back in newer asscreeds. Unfortunately if you want to upgrade that to anything current you're looking at a new motherboard and RAM as well. I can vouch for the Ryzen 3600 which is generally recommended as a good price v performance sweet spot.
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May 19, 2020 20:22
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Inzombiac posted:I'm way out of the loop on building PCs so can someone tell me what the most cost-effective upgrade I can make is? You could pick up a 4770 on ebay for about $140 and see if the 4 extra threads gives you the performance you're looking for, otherwise I'd say you're looking about about $350 for a CPU/Mobo/RAM update as your best path forward.
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May 19, 2020 20:31
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AC Origins was pretty bad on my OCed to 4.2GHz 3770K, so I don't know if a 4770 will be much better. I just upgraded from that 3770k to a 3600 and AC Origins was one of the first games I went back to test: it's smooth. But that's after upgrading the graphics card to something more recent as well (RX 5700 with XT bios and OC). AC Origins uses a lot of resources, there's no way around it. It's probably cheaper to buy and play it on a PS4! v1ld fucked around with this message at 21:15 on May 19, 2020 |
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May 19, 2020 21:10
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v1ld posted:AC Origins was pretty bad on my OCed to 4.2GHz 3770K, so I don't know if a 4770 will be much better. Good to know. AC isn't a series I play normally but it's the most resource-intense game I have ATM so if I can hit that benchmark, I'll be happy.
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May 19, 2020 21:22
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Is there any news about whether Comet Lake processors will be competitive with Zen2 processors at the mid-range level (e.g. i5 10600 vs R5 3600) now that Intel is adding HT to i5s and i3s? From what I gather, it looks like Comet Lake is expected to launch next week. I'm guessing the potentially slightly better performance of the 10600 vs 3600 won't be worth the projected ~$50-60 difference in price between the 2.
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May 19, 2020 21:29
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Inzombiac posted:Good to know. AC isn't a series I play normally but it's the most resource-intense game I have ATM so if I can hit that benchmark, I'll be happy. I'd honestly avoid using AC:O as the benchmark. Games like Red Dead Redemption 2 played much, much better than AC:O on the 3770k + RX 5700. Granted, different games and all, but AC:O just seems to like CPU even when there's no clear reason why. In a crowded city, you'd expect it to need some CPU but it's puzzling when you're blowing out 3-4 cores in the intro dungeon where you're the only thing alive in there. On the 3600, AC:O is using about 3-4 cores max when I look (20-30% of the 12 threads), so it doesn't scale much beyond 4 cores either. Feels like it wants 4 fast cores. Just not the most well-coded game. I think.
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May 19, 2020 21:32
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Klyith posted:If your budget is trying to stay at £800, get a 1660 Super or a RX 580 rather than the 5600XT, which isn't the best bang/buck card in the first place. I notice the RX580 is coming in £60 cheaper for the cheapest option compared to the 1660 Super, £165 versus £225. Is this saving reflected in the performance? Also does the model of the GPUs matter? Are some manufacturers better than others? Ie who should I avoid?
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May 19, 2020 22:18
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v1ld posted:I'd honestly avoid using AC:O as the benchmark. Games like Red Dead Redemption 2 played much, much better than AC:O on the 3770k + RX 5700. You want badly optimized? Battletech somehow hit 100% on all 4 cores of my i5-6600K @ 4.4 the last time I played it. Maybe a 3700X with 32GB of RAM would be enough for this beast of a... turn based tactics game? 
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May 19, 2020 22:23
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Inzombiac posted:I'm way out of the loop on building PCs so can someone tell me what the most cost-effective upgrade I can make is? I just upgraded from something similar. I kept my 970 and went with a new mobo/3600/ram. My gpu seems to be doing just fine for now.
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May 19, 2020 22:29
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Mihi posted:I notice the RX580 is coming in £60 cheaper for the cheapest option compared to the 1660 Super, £165 versus £225. Is this saving reflected in the performance? Also does the model of the GPUs matter? Are some manufacturers better than others? Ie who should I avoid? The 1660 Super outperforms the 580 by about 25%, in return for costing 35% more. Is that worth it? It depends. A 580 is getting kinda old for some games at 1080p these days, but that depends a lot on what type of games you like to play. If you're into big AAA single-player games that focus on visuals -- like Assassin's Creed or Control or (probably) Cyberpunk -- the 580 is a bit weak. 25% is a lot when it's the difference between keeping near 60 FPS and being in the 30-40 zone. OTOH if you like other games -- for ex multiplayer shooters optimize their performance a lot -- the 580 is good enough. As for models, the basic models are usually the best buy -- the special extra overclock stuff that costs $25-50 more is generally only a few % faster and you can OC yourself if you want. The only manufacturer I might avoid is Palit but that's only internet hearsay, I've no experience with them myself. OTOH EVGA is often recommended for excellent warranty service. Splinter posted:Is there any news about whether Comet Lake processors will be competitive with Zen2 processors at the mid-range level (e.g. i5 10600 vs R5 3600) now that Intel is adding HT to i5s and i3s? From what I gather, it looks like Comet Lake is expected to launch next week. I'm guessing the potentially slightly better performance of the 10600 vs 3600 won't be worth the projected ~$50-60 difference in price between the 2. The KF is the best possible comparison for Intel, those are the ones that strip the GPU so are on an equal footing with Ryzens for that. The 10600KF is gonna be ~$240 and I think will almost certainly beat a 3600 in games performance. OTOH there's also the motherboard costs to add to the comparison. $120 gets you all the mobo you need from AMD, while Intel motherboards are a lot more expensive. Comet lake stuff is also gonna be hot and power-hungry as gently caress. Klyith fucked around with this message at 23:03 on May 19, 2020 |
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May 19, 2020 22:47
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Captain No-mates posted:Hey guys, I'm looking to build a system which can smash 1440p but compact enough form factor to not be a hassle during a move (lockdown allowing) later this year. The xfx thicc is padded with lots of unnecessary plastic, has lovely temperature management and noise. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IwczmQNHVfo Powercolor Red Devil is the highest rated 5700 XT iirc, sapphire pulse or a gigabyte are better than and about the same price as the xfx.
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May 19, 2020 22:53
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Klyith posted:The KF is the best possible comparison for Intel, those are the ones that strip the GPU so are on an equal footing with Ryzens for that. The 10600KF is gonna be ~$240 and I think will almost certainly beat a 3600 in games performance. Yeah, this was I was thinking the 10600 would be a better comparison to the 3600, just looking at TDP (the 10600 is rated @ 65W TDP similar to the 3600, while the 10600KF is listed at 95W). Anyway, with motherboard costs + intel premium, it seems like at least at release the 10600kf will be closer in price to the 3700X rather than the 3600.
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May 19, 2020 23:21
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LotionMan posted:
I have the Red Devil and it’s great. Quiet as hell even playing new stuff like Re3 at 1440/144mhz on ultra. Worst part is probly the glowing red devil light on the card itself which is a bit embarrassing.
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May 20, 2020 00:46
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Hello, people with slightly frightening recall of chipset and component minutae. I seek your guidance on a few computers that I'm looking to build over the course of the rest of the year. (I'm in Canada.) 1) home server: Home Assistant, NVR, various docker barnacles, Unifi controller, maybe some Plex -- $500 would be great, but who knows what old Skylake-S motherboards are found for these days. I have a i7-6700K, 2x16GB DDR4-3200, and 2TB Micron 1100 SATA SSD that I'd like to move into a home server. I'll need a motherboard and case and cooler and power supply. Likely I'm looking for the motherboard at least on eBay, given the age of the socket? - The closet is not big, so I think I'd prefer mITX, but if it's a big win in other ways then I could see mATX - Would like a good number (4+) of USB2/3 ports, ideally at least 2 on the front panel - Gigabit Ethernet, 1 will do. - AC-or-better Wifi would be good, but a PCI slot that I can add it to later would do in a pinch. - No GPU going into this thing, if that helps figure out cooling and case. - Room for a second SATA drive would be good in case I start acting as a backup server for everyone's laptops and such. - Compatible with modern Linux in terms of drivers for the core stuff. 2) compactish gaming and development machine -- ~$2000 CAD? $2400? Pretty much from scratch other than GPU. Will be running 4-12 containers doing database and ML stuff, Fusion 360, lots of compiling, CP2077, in a smallish shared office space. Would like to be able to drive 4K@100+ when GPUs get there (this fall?) -- currently a 1080 driving 1400@144 but that will almost certainly be upgraded to an Ampere 3x80+ when they emerge. Probably Ryzen 2 (12/24) and then upgrade to 3 when they come out, moving the Ryzen 2 into Machine #3. Will Ryzen 2 RAM be what I want with Ryzen 3? I understand it to still be DDR4, but I don't know if there are other dimensions that I'll want to be different between them. Don't need audio, but a bunch of USB ports front and rear would be nice. I'll want to start at 32GB, but be able to upgrade without too much hassle to 64GB if things get chunky. Had been thinking ITX because the Sliger SV590 really appeals to me, but that looks like it'll be hard to cool quietly, so I could go to mATX. Once the Ryzen 3 and Ampere are in it I expect to keep it for 5+ years. 3) secondary gaming machine -- ~$700 CAD? 1440@60Hz, will get the 1080 in the fullness of time and an over-specced Ryzen 2 out of the development box. Some bloated Civ stuff, Sims!, Cities Skyline, Minecraft, mostly I just want it to be quieter than the monstrosity that is currently in use, and it would even be fine to underclock in service of that. Will need case, cooler, RAM (unless I want to swap out when I move to Ryzen 3 on #2), motherboard, PSU, SSD. Ideally wifi on the motherboard, but I have some cards lying around too. I'm hoping to get the upgrade to #1 and #2 started this month, and then #3 when Ampere and/or Ryzen 3 release. This thread is an incredible resource; thanks in advance for any guidance you can provide!
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May 20, 2020 02:03
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