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I have one of these and I love it https://www.harborfreight.com/high-position-motorcycle-lift-99887.html It’s extremely beefy and I’ve had it forever. I’ve used it on my RV90, Elite 250, Drz, and my riding mower all without trouble. I wouldn’t trust it to lift the Goldwing without drama but that’s outside the scope of what you’d want to lift like that anyway. I’d use it to lift the SV if it wouldn’t smash the exhaust. I’ve seen people mod these with some C-channel steel across the forks to make a poor mans motorcycle table. At full height it puts the average bike engine at stomach height or so. Easy mode if you have a rolling stool
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# ? May 18, 2020 14:15 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 12:47 |
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Thanks for these suggestions.
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# ? May 18, 2020 14:42 |
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Ha, its right in the HF website reviews. I kind of want to do this now
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# ? May 18, 2020 17:41 |
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Qubee posted:My cousin has a 2019 Harley Davidson, I have no idea what model or make or whatever it is. I'm not a bike person. But he flipped it recently and the dealership was telling him it'd cost almost $6,000 to fix, which is an absolute ripoff. The only things busted are the speedometer and the shift lever (I believe?). The speedometer seems like a pretty easy fix, I can just go buy a new one and it'll come with instructions on how to install it. The shift lever, however, has been completely bent out of whack, which means you can't depress it as it collides with the footrest, due to it being bent in towards the bike. What the gently caress did they even list in the quote?!?! Aren't Harleys supposed to have an entirely standalone transmission like cars do, so you can just swap em? Sure the quote wasn't like "the frame is bent so this is our comedy funtimes quote but the bike is totaled because it will fishtail everywhere"?
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# ? May 18, 2020 19:46 |
Qubee posted:My cousin has a 2019 Harley Davidson, I have no idea what model or make or whatever it is. I'm not a bike person. But he flipped it recently and the dealership was telling him it'd cost almost $6,000 to fix, which is an absolute ripoff. The only things busted are the speedometer and the shift lever (I believe?). The speedometer seems like a pretty easy fix, I can just go buy a new one and it'll come with instructions on how to install it. The shift lever, however, has been completely bent out of whack, which means you can't depress it as it collides with the footrest, due to it being bent in towards the bike. This depends a great deal on the exact type of Harley it is (contrary to folk wisdom they are not All The Same) and what specifically is bent. If it's a sportster: remove the shift lever and any linkages if it's got forward controls, straighten damaged things if they're steel, replace if alloy, then make absolutely sure the splined shaft coming out of the bike is perfectly straight. If it's not, remove the primary cover, replace the shift mechanism the shaft is a part of. You just need a gasket, some gearbox oil and basic imperial tools. Easy peasy. If it's a big twin: remove what you can and replace/straighten. The gear linkage passes through the primary drive and out the other side. If the splined shaft that goes through there is bent, or if the linkage behind the primary is bent, you have to remove the whole primary drive. This means removing the cover, the huge red-loctited bolt holding the crank sprocket on, the slightly less huge nut holding the clutch basket on, the starter motor and finally the inner primary. For this you need a full primary gasket set, some oil, a very powerful rattlegun, and some way to jam up the primary chain (a block of wood works well). I do not recommend attempting this yourself if this is your first rodeo. Now imagine the latter scenario with Harley's insane price markup, ridiculous labour rates and the fact the manual tells you to replace dozens of things you don't really need to, plus sleazy dealers desperate for work.... Mirconium posted:What the gently caress did they even list in the quote?!?! Nah not quite, they all have a cassette gearbox but the details vary a lot.
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# ? May 18, 2020 21:15 |
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Ha, its right in the HF website reviews. I kind of want to do this now I don't think I'd be comfortable until I hitched it to the ceiling too
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# ? May 18, 2020 22:17 |
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You can kinda see it, but the board is bolted to the lifting arms. Granted, it still has a higher COG than it would if you just had the bike on the arms, but I dont think it would be horrible
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# ? May 19, 2020 01:27 |
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I've never seen that particular lift before but I like it in theory. I don't like that BMW setup though, the board is bolted to the lift but the bike is on the centerstand presumably so you could remove the wheel and change a tire. Do that and the whole thing is going to tip forward. It's something you have to be aware of with any of the center type lifts, this one just has more catastrophic consequences. I'll usually throw a strap to the ceiling regardless, it's right there.
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# ? May 19, 2020 03:32 |
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Should I run a clip-type chain on the street? If so, should I dab silicone/safety wire the clip? I think I may be too stupid to rivet a chain properly, then again I also don't want to saw off my leg or punch a hole in my engine.
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# ? May 19, 2020 16:52 |
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If it were possible to bolt the lift to the ground (and I pray that the work surface itself is somehow bolted to the lift) then I would probably be more comfortable with what I see
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# ? May 19, 2020 16:58 |
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Bernie Panders posted:Should I run a clip-type chain on the street? If so, should I dab silicone/safety wire the clip? I think I may be too stupid to rivet a chain properly, then again I also don't want to saw off my leg or punch a hole in my engine. Don't do this to us! We as a community have been ravaged by the storms of synthetic oil and countersteering. We aren't strong enough! We need time to heal! (Clips are fine to run on bikes sub 50 hp on the street, otherwise your chances of catastrophic failure go up) Edit: Paging slavvy though: I've always heard that the real thing that happens with the clipped links is the clip pops off though, and I also wonder about the safety wire thing. Like if the only problem is that the clip jumps off, why aren't they just cottered in place? Or wired in place? Or anything-else in place? Does the vibration/rotation make the wiring wear out or something? DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 17:26 on May 19, 2020 |
# ? May 19, 2020 17:15 |
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clips are a bit silly when riveting is super easy. just get the DID KM500R tool from the Amazon Tool Rental Service™️ and go to town
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# ? May 19, 2020 17:30 |
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right arm posted:clips are a bit silly when riveting is super easy. just get the DID KM500R tool from the Amazon Tool Rental Service™️ and go to town Whoa, you don't even need to grind off the rivet heads with this tool? That might be worth it alone. My primary bike is ~50hp but I'm seeing way too many stories about broken/lost clips to make me comfortable.
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# ? May 19, 2020 18:07 |
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Bernie Panders posted:Whoa, you don't even need to grind off the rivet heads with this tool? That might be worth it alone. If you have an angle grinder, don't dick around grinding the rivets down, just cut the link. If you don't have an angle grinder, buy an inexpensive one from Harbor Freight. They're useful for all sorts of stuff. You need the chain tool to rivet the master link on the new chain, but I've never bothered using it to break the chain I'm replacing.
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# ? May 19, 2020 19:15 |
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Bernie Panders posted:Whoa, you don't even need to grind off the rivet heads with this tool? That might be worth it alone. nah. I used it to push through the rivets on my OEM CZ chan like butter. it rules. its perfectly made just look up what spec your master link needs to be flared at and mic it after smooshing it and you're golden
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# ? May 19, 2020 19:52 |
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right arm posted:riveting is super easy Lies
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# ? May 19, 2020 19:59 |
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I will never forget riding behind my buddy, him on his DRZ400SM, me on my old Kawi F11 and his master link let go (why he had a clip link I dont know). The link plate came screaming by my helmet at about Mach 7 and sounded exactly like those bullet sound effects from an old western. Probably didnt help that we were going up a semi-steep hill and his chain was under a pretty big load when it let go. However, I dont blame the chain, he was notoriously lovely with maintenance and for sure didnt have it installed correctly. I've had a ton of bikes with clip links and I have never had one let go Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 20:04 on May 19, 2020 |
# ? May 19, 2020 20:01 |
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it honestly was with the DID tool. it was just as easy to put a clip on my pedal bike's chain as it was for me to smoosh the master link on my 525 EK chain. I've used cheaper tools back in the day on my R6 and yes, those sucked, but the DID tool is perfection
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# ? May 19, 2020 20:17 |
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Seconding that DID tool + just angle grind the old chain off. Chain and sprocket swaps are piss easy (WITH THE CORRECT TOOLS) if you use stock gearing + chain packages. It's a tiny bit more involved if you have to make your own correct chain length due to significantly bigger rear sprockets, but that's just a case of measure thrice angle grind once at hopefully correct length.
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# ? May 19, 2020 20:36 |
Mirconium posted:Don't do this to us! We as a community have been ravaged by the storms of synthetic oil and countersteering. We aren't strong enough! We need time to heal! They are clipped in place, literally the clip itself is made of spring steel and theoretically can't come off from vibration alone. In practice I've found it often gets fatigued and less springy, plus the holes sort of ream out and it stops being a tight fit on the pins. Safety wire works very well, silicon or other goos don't do jack poo poo, if your bike is really heavy or has triple digit hp it's rivet or bust. Pro strat: never, ever lube your chain, the clip will fly off but the pins themselves won't be straight anymore so the link plate is effectively jammed in place. Source: my old Hyosung 250 did this, I just kept riding it for another six months no problems.
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# ? May 19, 2020 23:30 |
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My KLR eats clip chains, I've blown three of them. Rivets only for me from now on.
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# ? May 20, 2020 01:56 |
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Make sure the round part of the clip is going forward. They will pop themselves off otherwise. Some people don't realize they're directional.
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# ? May 20, 2020 02:08 |
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Slavvy posted:They are clipped in place, literally the clip itself is made of spring steel and theoretically can't come off from vibration alone. In practice I've found it often gets fatigued and less springy, plus the holes sort of ream out and it stops being a tight fit on the pins. Safety wire works very well, silicon or other goos don't do jack poo poo, if your bike is really heavy or has triple digit hp it's rivet or bust. This would be much less of a conundrum if fully enclosed chain guards were still a thing you could get.
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# ? May 20, 2020 07:18 |
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Does anyone still make a bike with an agricultural trim level? Those always had enclosed chains. I keep my eyes peeled for the RV90 ag bikes for this very reason
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# ? May 20, 2020 15:18 |
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Apparently the Yamaha AG200 is still in production? gently caress knows where you actually buy one though
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# ? May 20, 2020 16:03 |
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Speaking of ag, do people still put tractor chains on their bikes? Seems not good
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# ? May 20, 2020 16:55 |
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Renaissance Robot posted:Apparently the Yamaha AG200 is still in production? gently caress knows where you actually buy one though Rally For Rangers is supposed to be donating a bunch of em to mongolian park rangers, so apparently at least Mongolia.
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# ? May 20, 2020 19:07 |
Jim Silly-Balls posted:Does anyone still make a bike with an agricultural trim level? Those always had enclosed chains. Honda posties still do, I think they're a false economy though because in my experience they fill up with an inch-thick layer of grime at the bottom that the chain ends up dragging on, so you just switch chain cleaning for chain guard cleaning. AG bikes: all the big four currently sell and market small capacity farm bikes here. The Sherpa, dt125, ag200 and ctx150 all come with racks and stuff and are explicitly pitched at farmers and lifestyle block owners.
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# ? May 20, 2020 20:43 |
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Does anyone have experience with the Scottoiler for cutting down on chain maintenance? Worth it or no?
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# ? May 21, 2020 15:24 |
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I do not care for them as they typically fling poo poo everywhere. I far prefer the occasional chain scrub and then spraying it down with dupont chain wax after
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# ? May 21, 2020 15:39 |
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Kastivich posted:Does anyone have experience with the Scottoiler for cutting down on chain maintenance? Worth it or no? If you're the kind of scrub who rides a lot in all weather and skimps on chain maintenance (like me) then yes they're absolutely worth it, because the alternative is your chain not getting oiled nearly enough. They do fling oil around, especially before you get the drip rate dialled in, but regular spray lube gets everywhere too and scottoil just wipes off instead of getting gummed on with dirt. e/ a lot of the reviews that accuse them of being especially messy set the injector wrong, floating mid-air over the chain instead of contacting the rear sprocket. If you do get one, read the manual. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 18:44 on May 21, 2020 |
# ? May 21, 2020 18:39 |
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Renaissance Robot posted:If you're the kind of scrub who rides a lot in all weather and skimps on chain maintenance (like me) then yes This is exactly the kind of scrub I am. Well, I was before the world shut down.
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# ? May 21, 2020 21:06 |
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Pro-tier scrub is having a scottoiler but not bothering to refill it with Oil of Scott when it runs out because you've got a can of Teflon spray anyway and ehh gently caress it spray some of that on when you remember it's just easier.
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# ? May 21, 2020 21:23 |
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Kastivich posted:Does anyone have experience with the Scottoiler for cutting down on chain maintenance? Worth it or no? Easy peasy. Just by a KTM and let the leaky countershaft seal oil the chain for you. (I have to replace mine again...) Chain maintenance is kind of a balance of having your bike and left leg soaked in gunk or replacing dry and stretched chains too often. Scott oilers removes those 2 minutes of chain inspection once in a while, but taking the time fussing over the chain and lubricating while inspecting the rest of the bike might be an issue.
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# ? May 21, 2020 22:12 |
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Renaissance Robot posted:If you're the kind of scrub who rides a lot in all weather and skimps on chain maintenance (like me) then yes they're absolutely worth it, because the alternative is your chain not getting oiled nearly enough. Or you recognize the supremacy of shaft drive for a moment before you remember that yours needs special weird moly paste and is built using expensive splines, u-joints and shafts all of which can fail. Crusty chain supremacy, actually
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# ? May 21, 2020 22:54 |
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Lol all this chain talk and I just bought a shaft driven bike. Feels kinda weird not having to maintain it/check it like a chain
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# ? May 21, 2020 23:01 |
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Has anyone ever built a motorcycle with a hydraulic drive? Like a pump on the side of the engine and an in-hub hydraulic motor on the swingarm and power transmitted through hydraulic hoses. Instead of a transmission you could have valves and torque converters. All the moving parts would be sealed. I'd get a kick out of it
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# ? May 22, 2020 00:22 |
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Kastivich posted:Does anyone have experience with the Scottoiler for cutting down on chain maintenance? Worth it or no? But also chain drives are a bad idea and all bikes should be shaft or at least belt. right arm posted:I do not care for them as they typically fling poo poo everywhere. I far prefer the occasional chain scrub and then spraying it down with dupont chain wax after Sagebrush posted:Has anyone ever built a motorcycle with a hydraulic drive? Like a pump on the side of the engine and an in-hub hydraulic motor on the swingarm and power transmitted through hydraulic hoses. Instead of a transmission you could have valves and torque converters. All the moving parts would be sealed.
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# ? May 22, 2020 01:18 |
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I think I saw a 2WD dirt bike conversion kit that ran this way. Some kind of a drive off the sprocket that ran the front wheel with a pump torque-converter style. Interesting idea but for that purpose you'd probably want a mechanical drive with more positive traction I'd think. Yamaha did a concept bike for Dakar like this, I remember it got a load of hype and then just disappeared. However I'm sure even as we speak some BMW engineer with quarantine fever is working on a single-sided shaft drive front end.
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# ? May 22, 2020 01:48 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 12:47 |
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Sagebrush posted:Has anyone ever built a motorcycle with a hydraulic drive? Like a pump on the side of the engine and an in-hub hydraulic motor on the swingarm and power transmitted through hydraulic hoses. Instead of a transmission you could have valves and torque converters. All the moving parts would be sealed. I’m seeing one big steampunk bike in my mind’s eye And it’s not good
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# ? May 22, 2020 02:25 |