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Pakxos posted:I've seen two methods for washes, one where you apply over the whole model and then re-apply the layer paint and another where you paint the shade directly into the recesses - is there any consideration for using one method over the other besides preference? I think it all depends on what you are going for. I typically shade the whole model, that way I know I am getting all the recess areas and I am getting a consistent look and feel. I also typically don't reapply the base color after I wash a whole model, I usually take the tinting or darkening the wash will apply into my overall color scheme. In fact, I've actively relied on some of Army Painter's color washes in the past to help deepen a color or add a dimension to a metallic. I usually do my base colors, a wash, and then any highlighting after that. That said, I totally get only washing the recess areas, as it gives you a lot more control over your non-washed colors, and it preserves your wash.
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May 18, 2020 16:19
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Here is what I worked on yesterday. I want to base these miniatures, and the movement tray next with grass. The lighting is not that good, one of the figures looks like it was painted black, they were all painted with Khorne Red citadel. You can also see where I got lazy with behind the shields because it is a horrible pain to paint. I would normally not attach arms with shields to the model until after painting both the body and arm/shield was done individually, but these miniatures come already assembled. Ducan Rhodes has a really good painting tutorial for these models https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uj1cgqKoRqo but I was unwilling to follow it exactly due to patience and time.  
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May 18, 2020 16:31
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Pakxos posted:Good stuff - thank you. There are a few considerations. 1. do you want to darken down the whole area? Sometimes you do, a brown wash over a brown leather coat for example, or black wash over metal. Sometimes for bright armor colors you may not want to either have to repaint armor panels or dull down the color so you use a pin (recess) wash. 2. coffee staining. Large flat panels, like space marine vehicles, if you slap a wash over them you're more likely to get dark splotches that resemble a coffee stain, so pin washing is more effective in general.
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May 18, 2020 16:32
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I think it's easier to just carefully put wash in each recess in order to reduce the risk of wash pooling up weirdly on a surface and causing coffee cup stains. Except for steel/metal where I want it to look worn out then I'll be sloppy with nuln oil then drybrush the base back on it then lightly drybrush/sponge a little bit of a brighter metal on top of that then edge highlight with a different bright silver if I feel like it (leadbelcher, ironbreaker, runefang steel in that order)
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May 18, 2020 16:35
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Pakxos posted:Good stuff - thank you. You can do an all-over wash, or what they call a pinpoint or pin wash, which is where you target the recesses. Washes do not cover uniformly by design though - they flow into recessed areas. If you do an all-over wash on lighter colors, this non-uniformity shows up very obviously. You'll either have to do a ton of clean-up, or you'll have a dirty-looking finish. On darker colors all-over is less of an issue.
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May 18, 2020 17:25
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Furism posted:Why the timestamp? Painting for The Hams for Hunger charity drive.
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May 18, 2020 18:16
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Working on some stuff during this thing and I have almost finished another unit of skeleton warriors that should be good to post about in the next day or so. I also have been looking at my Space Marines that I didn't finish and came across a Librarian that I bought off eBay with a strange issue: he smells like poo poo. It wasn't noticeable until I removed the paint, but it literally smells like crap. I have washed the hell out of him but he still smells. He sat for months... and still smells. What causes this and what can I do to fix it? Also, this will 100% be worked into his backstory.
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May 18, 2020 19:27
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Didn't you ever wonder why mini bases are flared?
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May 18, 2020 19:28
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I said come in! posted:Lannister guys Little bit off thread topic, but is there anywhere online that you can browse the ASoIaF minatures range with model previews? The cool mini or not page and their main store just seem to have box art.
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May 18, 2020 21:15
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Finished up my second dude today. Eyes are hard! He's also kinda patchy because I couldn't tell what things were supposed to be on the sculpt so I doubled back a few times. 
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May 18, 2020 22:13
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grassy gnoll posted:Didn't you ever wonder why mini bases are flared? What demons and chaotic horrors has this humble librarian seen? Corruption seems likely... 
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May 19, 2020 01:02
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14 miniatures ready to prime and paint over the course of like 2+ years. 
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May 19, 2020 04:23
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I was just thinking about something today and I wanted this thread's opinion. In a world where Vallejo has "Air" versions of their paints, why buy the "non-Air" versions? Even for paint brushing I find that the viscosity/thinning of the air line is pretty much perfect, no need to add water or flow improver. So for paints that are available in that line, is there a point in buying the regular paint? I must be missing something. N.B.: I realize some of their paints aren't available in an "air" version, I'm asking about those who are.
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May 19, 2020 11:00
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Furism posted:So for paints that are available in that line, is there a point in buying the regular paint? I must be missing something. - if you use a wet palette, pre-thinned paint can often be too fluid to work properly - if you’re used to thinning your paint, Air paints provide less pigment and more medium for the same price
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May 19, 2020 11:05
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Yeast posted:- if you use a wet palette, pre-thinned paint can often be too fluid to work properly Pretty much. You also sometimes want your paint thicker.
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May 19, 2020 11:24
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Yeast posted:- if you use a wet palette, pre-thinned paint can often be too fluid to work properly Got it! The Moon Monster posted:Pretty much. You also sometimes want your paint thicker. Out of curiosity, what are the cases where you want your paint thicker?
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May 19, 2020 11:56
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Furism posted:Got it! If you want higher opacity or a more saturated color. It's especially useful for reds. I'd recommend beginners stick with the multiple thin coats method but once you've got a good feel for paint and developed good brush control it's easy enough to use thicker paint without leaving texture or obscuring detail. It would be useful for yellows and whites, but I find they're typically formulated in such a way that you really need to thin them to avoid leaving texture, unfortunately.
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May 19, 2020 12:02
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Ok thanks! I tend to use the airbrush for that kind of difficult colors, or inks, and so I did not know that and I'm glad I asked!
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May 19, 2020 12:10
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I finished some kobolds!    A nice little distraction from all the larger models I've been working on.
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May 19, 2020 19:11
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Can anyone give recommendations for what kind of wire/paper clips to buy if you are using the cork/glue sub-assemblies? Or if you have a better method for sub-assemblies in general I'd love to hear it.
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May 19, 2020 19:13
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Pakxos posted:Can anyone give recommendations for what kind of wire/paper clips to buy if you are using the cork/glue sub-assemblies? Or if you have a better method for sub-assemblies in general I'd love to hear it. #1 paperclips match up nicely with a 1mm drill bit, that's what I use. If you're building large, metal mins you might want something sturdier so I'd use brass rod, but it's a pretty rare situation that you need to go beyond the paper clips. Just make sure you have a pair of real wire cutters or something to cut them with. They'll bang up sprue cutters that were designed for plastic.
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May 19, 2020 19:19
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The Moon Monster posted:Just make sure you have a pair of real wire cutters or something to cut them with. They'll bang up sprue cutters that were designed for plastic. Good to know, thanks. And just plastic for me. Trying to push a little harder which each project though.
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May 19, 2020 19:23
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So, I just dropped the drat multipart metal mini I was in the middle of painting, so I think thats my cue to hang it up for the night and photograph the stuff I did last week. Painted a Malifaux Viktorias crew.  Consisting of the team masters, Viktoria and Viktoria,  the student of conflict  the Ronin (who look like a weeb girl band tbh)  Taelor  Vanessa  And Bishop (who honestly just looks like a 1980s metal band roadie). He was painted a few weeks ago mainly as a colour test for the cracked desert base.  These were another ebay rescue, there are a few little details missing, and the photos didnt turn out great, but I'm pleased with them, especially considering they didnt actually take that long to paint.
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May 19, 2020 22:12
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I haven't put anything on this Delaque gang to protect them, need to pick up some matte spraypaint varnish from home depot most likely, but they are "done" I think. One of the gang I tried doing Nuln Oil all over the robe but it really just made it shiny, the folds aren't aggressive enough for it to work on that sort of surface I think. I did highlight robe edges with straight Naggaroth Night (the robes are NN and black) and I put some contrast black in the deeper folds and spots. Really hard to capture on camera. Currently my plan is just to keep painting more minis to improve but I'm not sure if I should be specifically trying to learn something like say wet blending or just keep cranking for stuff like brush control. Any and all advice welcome.   Album Link with closeups
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May 19, 2020 23:28
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tangy yet delightful posted:
My 2c, you learn very, very little just cranking out miniatures. Focus on 1-2 new things to learn or try on every miniature. Watch some videos, read some guides, try to replicate it, fail spectacularly, repeat. They don't have to be major topics, even something like 'learn how to shade and highlight red better' is a good enough topic.
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May 20, 2020 00:14
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Ten more skeletons!   I'll try to get a group photo once I get a missing member back, they look great together! Edit: Also yes, the banner is flying in the wrong direction 
Professor Shark fucked around with this message at 00:54 on May 20, 2020 |
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May 20, 2020 00:52
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Mugaaz posted:My 2c, you learn very, very little just cranking out miniatures. Focus on 1-2 new things to learn or try on every miniature. Watch some videos, read some guides, try to replicate it, fail spectacularly, repeat. They don't have to be major topics, even something like 'learn how to shade and highlight red better' is a good enough topic. Professor Shark posted:
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May 20, 2020 01:13
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tangy yet delightful posted:Currently my plan is just to keep painting more minis to improve but I'm not sure if I should be specifically trying to learn something like say wet blending or just keep cranking for stuff like brush control. Any and all advice welcome. You're further along the quality curve than I am, if your goal is general improvement, I find it helpful to say this is my project for maintaining skills, with maybe one or two general improvements, and then have a model or model group that is for pushing myself, either because it has more details, I want to try a new painting technique or color scheme. That way I don't feel I am losing what I've already gained and I can select models which best fit what I want to learn. Granted, my versions of that are 'Use washes maybe?' and 'Sub-Assemblies and basing' but it does help keep things in balance.
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May 20, 2020 01:19
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Got some more Orlocks done!
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May 20, 2020 01:32
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R0ckfish posted:Got some more Orlocks done! Gawdamn, the focus in those eyes are fantastic. I'm going to use these pics as reference for the Orlocks I have primed and painting next.
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May 20, 2020 03:55
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R0ckfish posted:Got some more Orlocks done! Those are absolutely top-tier faces.
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May 20, 2020 08:49
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No word of a lie, they’re really lovely. The faces are excellent.
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May 20, 2020 09:02
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Woah, thanks for the compliments!Knuckle Sammich posted:Gawdamn, the focus in those eyes are fantastic. I'm going to use these pics as reference for the Orlocks I have primed and painting next. Good luck, I am sure you can nail it!
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May 20, 2020 11:44
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Hams for hunger xpost Geisladisk posted:
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May 20, 2020 11:49
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How do you guys deal with large, flat(ish) surfaces? I've just picked up my 40K knights again after letting them languish, and I'm having a hard time getting a clean, uniform colour on the large armour panels (top, shoulders) after having gone slightly over the top with the washes in months past. It's mephiston red over meph. red -> nuln oil, if it matters any.
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May 20, 2020 12:34
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inscrutable horse posted:How do you guys deal with large, flat(ish) surfaces? I've just picked up my 40K knights again after letting them languish, and I'm having a hard time getting a clean, uniform colour on the large armour panels (top, shoulders) after having gone slightly over the top with the washes in months past. It's mephiston red over meph. red -> nuln oil, if it matters any. For large areas without much texture, it's easy to get a bunch of tide marks and coffee rings, if you apply the wash over the whole area. Pin washing and manual shading/highlighting works better.
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May 20, 2020 12:44
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freehanding hazard stripes: harrowing
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May 20, 2020 12:52
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inscrutable horse posted:How do you guys deal with large, flat(ish) surfaces? I've just picked up my 40K knights again after letting them languish, and I'm having a hard time getting a clean, uniform colour on the large armour panels (top, shoulders) after having gone slightly over the top with the washes in months past. It's mephiston red over meph. red -> nuln oil, if it matters any. Larger, flatter brushes will help you get a smoother coat, as will getting paint to the right consistency (although that might be difficult with red). Do a single pass with a brush and only overlap your strokes on the wet edge of the painted area leaving the rest to dry completely before doing more coats. Best solution is an airbrush. I think I'd just avoid using washes at all on a surface like that, or use a small sharp brush so they only get in the recesses you're trying to shade, but I've never painted a knight so I can't speak from experience there. The Moon Monster fucked around with this message at 13:35 on May 20, 2020 |
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May 20, 2020 13:32
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BARONS CYBER SKULL posted:freehanding hazard stripes: harrowing I'd say you did a good job.
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May 20, 2020 13:48
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Playing around with some fire and ice effects. Fairly pleased but I need to try a proper wetblend at some point
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May 20, 2020 15:22
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