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Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




I have one of these and I love it

https://www.harborfreight.com/high-position-motorcycle-lift-99887.html

It’s extremely beefy and I’ve had it forever. I’ve used it on my RV90, Elite 250, Drz, and my riding mower all without trouble.

I wouldn’t trust it to lift the Goldwing without drama but that’s outside the scope of what you’d want to lift like that anyway. I’d use it to lift the SV if it wouldn’t smash the exhaust. I’ve seen people mod these with some C-channel steel across the forks to make a poor mans motorcycle table.

At full height it puts the average bike engine at stomach height or so. Easy mode if you have a rolling stool

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ought ten
Feb 6, 2004

Thanks for these suggestions.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Ha, its right in the HF website reviews. I kind of want to do this now

DearSirXNORMadam
Aug 1, 2009

Qubee posted:

My cousin has a 2019 Harley Davidson, I have no idea what model or make or whatever it is. I'm not a bike person. But he flipped it recently and the dealership was telling him it'd cost almost $6,000 to fix, which is an absolute ripoff. The only things busted are the speedometer and the shift lever (I believe?). The speedometer seems like a pretty easy fix, I can just go buy a new one and it'll come with instructions on how to install it. The shift lever, however, has been completely bent out of whack, which means you can't depress it as it collides with the footrest, due to it being bent in towards the bike.

Would I be able to dismantle that and straighten it out and things would be okay, or can the crash have caused some unseen damage on other components? We thought it'd be a fun little project to do as it doesn't seem too difficult to handle.

What the gently caress did they even list in the quote?!?!

Aren't Harleys supposed to have an entirely standalone transmission like cars do, so you can just swap em? Sure the quote wasn't like "the frame is bent so this is our comedy funtimes quote but the bike is totaled because it will fishtail everywhere"?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Qubee posted:

My cousin has a 2019 Harley Davidson, I have no idea what model or make or whatever it is. I'm not a bike person. But he flipped it recently and the dealership was telling him it'd cost almost $6,000 to fix, which is an absolute ripoff. The only things busted are the speedometer and the shift lever (I believe?). The speedometer seems like a pretty easy fix, I can just go buy a new one and it'll come with instructions on how to install it. The shift lever, however, has been completely bent out of whack, which means you can't depress it as it collides with the footrest, due to it being bent in towards the bike.

Would I be able to dismantle that and straighten it out and things would be okay, or can the crash have caused some unseen damage on other components? We thought it'd be a fun little project to do as it doesn't seem too difficult to handle.

This depends a great deal on the exact type of Harley it is (contrary to folk wisdom they are not All The Same) and what specifically is bent.

If it's a sportster: remove the shift lever and any linkages if it's got forward controls, straighten damaged things if they're steel, replace if alloy, then make absolutely sure the splined shaft coming out of the bike is perfectly straight. If it's not, remove the primary cover, replace the shift mechanism the shaft is a part of. You just need a gasket, some gearbox oil and basic imperial tools. Easy peasy.

If it's a big twin: remove what you can and replace/straighten. The gear linkage passes through the primary drive and out the other side. If the splined shaft that goes through there is bent, or if the linkage behind the primary is bent, you have to remove the whole primary drive. This means removing the cover, the huge red-loctited bolt holding the crank sprocket on, the slightly less huge nut holding the clutch basket on, the starter motor and finally the inner primary. For this you need a full primary gasket set, some oil, a very powerful rattlegun, and some way to jam up the primary chain (a block of wood works well). I do not recommend attempting this yourself if this is your first rodeo.

Now imagine the latter scenario with Harley's insane price markup, ridiculous labour rates and the fact the manual tells you to replace dozens of things you don't really need to, plus sleazy dealers desperate for work....

Mirconium posted:

What the gently caress did they even list in the quote?!?!

Aren't Harleys supposed to have an entirely standalone transmission like cars do, so you can just swap em? Sure the quote wasn't like "the frame is bent so this is our comedy funtimes quote but the bike is totaled because it will fishtail everywhere"?

Nah not quite, they all have a cassette gearbox but the details vary a lot.

Shelvocke
Aug 6, 2013

Microwave Engraver

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Ha, its right in the HF website reviews. I kind of want to do this now



I don't think I'd be comfortable until I hitched it to the ceiling too

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




You can kinda see it, but the board is bolted to the lifting arms.

Granted, it still has a higher COG than it would if you just had the bike on the arms, but I dont think it would be horrible

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

I've never seen that particular lift before but I like it in theory. I don't like that BMW setup though, the board is bolted to the lift but the bike is on the centerstand presumably so you could remove the wheel and change a tire. Do that and the whole thing is going to tip forward. It's something you have to be aware of with any of the center type lifts, this one just has more catastrophic consequences. I'll usually throw a strap to the ceiling regardless, it's right there.

Bernie Panders
Apr 27, 2020

by Fluffdaddy
Should I run a clip-type chain on the street? If so, should I dab silicone/safety wire the clip? I think I may be too stupid to rivet a chain properly, then again I also don't want to saw off my leg or punch a hole in my engine.

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
If it were possible to bolt the lift to the ground (and I pray that the work surface itself is somehow bolted to the lift) then I would probably be more comfortable with what I see :q:

DearSirXNORMadam
Aug 1, 2009

Bernie Panders posted:

Should I run a clip-type chain on the street? If so, should I dab silicone/safety wire the clip? I think I may be too stupid to rivet a chain properly, then again I also don't want to saw off my leg or punch a hole in my engine.

Don't do this to us! We as a community have been ravaged by the storms of synthetic oil and countersteering. We aren't strong enough! We need time to heal!

(Clips are fine to run on bikes sub 50 hp on the street, otherwise your chances of catastrophic failure go up)

Edit: Paging slavvy though:

I've always heard that the real thing that happens with the clipped links is the clip pops off though, and I also wonder about the safety wire thing. Like if the only problem is that the clip jumps off, why aren't they just cottered in place? Or wired in place? Or anything-else in place? Does the vibration/rotation make the wiring wear out or something?

DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 17:26 on May 19, 2020

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

clips are a bit silly when riveting is super easy. just get the DID KM500R tool from the Amazon Tool Rental Service™️ and go to town

Bernie Panders
Apr 27, 2020

by Fluffdaddy

right arm posted:

clips are a bit silly when riveting is super easy. just get the DID KM500R tool from the Amazon Tool Rental Service™️ and go to town

Whoa, you don't even need to grind off the rivet heads with this tool? That might be worth it alone.

My primary bike is ~50hp but I'm seeing way too many stories about broken/lost clips to make me comfortable.

Jazzzzz
May 16, 2002

Bernie Panders posted:

Whoa, you don't even need to grind off the rivet heads with this tool? That might be worth it alone.

If you have an angle grinder, don't dick around grinding the rivets down, just cut the link. If you don't have an angle grinder, buy an inexpensive one from Harbor Freight. They're useful for all sorts of stuff.

You need the chain tool to rivet the master link on the new chain, but I've never bothered using it to break the chain I'm replacing.

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

Bernie Panders posted:

Whoa, you don't even need to grind off the rivet heads with this tool? That might be worth it alone.

My primary bike is ~50hp but I'm seeing way too many stories about broken/lost clips to make me comfortable.

nah. I used it to push through the rivets on my OEM CZ chan like butter. it rules. its perfectly made

just look up what spec your master link needs to be flared at and mic it after smooshing it and you're golden

Renaissance Robot
Oct 10, 2010

Bite my furry metal ass

right arm posted:

riveting is super easy

Lies :catstare:

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




I will never forget riding behind my buddy, him on his DRZ400SM, me on my old Kawi F11 and his master link let go (why he had a clip link I dont know). The link plate came screaming by my helmet at about Mach 7 and sounded exactly like those bullet sound effects from an old western. Probably didnt help that we were going up a semi-steep hill and his chain was under a pretty big load when it let go.

However, I dont blame the chain, he was notoriously lovely with maintenance and for sure didnt have it installed correctly. I've had a ton of bikes with clip links and I have never had one let go

Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 20:04 on May 19, 2020

right arm
Oct 30, 2011


it honestly was with the DID tool. it was just as easy to put a clip on my pedal bike's chain as it was for me to smoosh the master link on my 525 EK chain. I've used cheaper tools back in the day on my R6 and yes, those sucked, but the DID tool is perfection

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
Seconding that DID tool + just angle grind the old chain off.
Chain and sprocket swaps are piss easy (WITH THE CORRECT TOOLS) if you use stock gearing + chain packages. It's a tiny bit more involved if you have to make your own correct chain length due to significantly bigger rear sprockets, but that's just a case of measure thrice angle grind once at hopefully correct length.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Mirconium posted:

Don't do this to us! We as a community have been ravaged by the storms of synthetic oil and countersteering. We aren't strong enough! We need time to heal!

(Clips are fine to run on bikes sub 50 hp on the street, otherwise your chances of catastrophic failure go up)

Edit: Paging slavvy though:

I've always heard that the real thing that happens with the clipped links is the clip pops off though, and I also wonder about the safety wire thing. Like if the only problem is that the clip jumps off, why aren't they just cottered in place? Or wired in place? Or anything-else in place? Does the vibration/rotation make the wiring wear out or something?

They are clipped in place, literally the clip itself is made of spring steel and theoretically can't come off from vibration alone. In practice I've found it often gets fatigued and less springy, plus the holes sort of ream out and it stops being a tight fit on the pins. Safety wire works very well, silicon or other goos don't do jack poo poo, if your bike is really heavy or has triple digit hp it's rivet or bust.

Pro strat: never, ever lube your chain, the clip will fly off but the pins themselves won't be straight anymore so the link plate is effectively jammed in place. Source: my old Hyosung 250 did this, I just kept riding it for another six months no problems.

RadioPassive
Feb 26, 2012

My KLR eats clip chains, I've blown three of them. Rivets only for me from now on.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Make sure the round part of the clip is going forward. They will pop themselves off otherwise. Some people don't realize they're directional.

Renaissance Robot
Oct 10, 2010

Bite my furry metal ass

Slavvy posted:

They are clipped in place, literally the clip itself is made of spring steel and theoretically can't come off from vibration alone. In practice I've found it often gets fatigued and less springy, plus the holes sort of ream out and it stops being a tight fit on the pins. Safety wire works very well, silicon or other goos don't do jack poo poo, if your bike is really heavy or has triple digit hp it's rivet or bust.

Pro strat: never, ever lube your chain, the clip will fly off but the pins themselves won't be straight anymore so the link plate is effectively jammed in place. Source: my old Hyosung 250 did this, I just kept riding it for another six months no problems.

This would be much less of a conundrum if fully enclosed chain guards were still a thing you could get.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Does anyone still make a bike with an agricultural trim level? Those always had enclosed chains.

I keep my eyes peeled for the RV90 ag bikes for this very reason

Renaissance Robot
Oct 10, 2010

Bite my furry metal ass
Apparently the Yamaha AG200 is still in production? gently caress knows where you actually buy one though

kloa
Feb 14, 2007


Speaking of ag, do people still put tractor chains on their bikes? Seems not good :ohdear:

DearSirXNORMadam
Aug 1, 2009

Renaissance Robot posted:

Apparently the Yamaha AG200 is still in production? gently caress knows where you actually buy one though

Rally For Rangers is supposed to be donating a bunch of em to mongolian park rangers, so apparently at least Mongolia.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Does anyone still make a bike with an agricultural trim level? Those always had enclosed chains.

I keep my eyes peeled for the RV90 ag bikes for this very reason

Honda posties still do, I think they're a false economy though because in my experience they fill up with an inch-thick layer of grime at the bottom that the chain ends up dragging on, so you just switch chain cleaning for chain guard cleaning.

AG bikes: all the big four currently sell and market small capacity farm bikes here. The Sherpa, dt125, ag200 and ctx150 all come with racks and stuff and are explicitly pitched at farmers and lifestyle block owners.

Kastivich
Mar 26, 2010
Does anyone have experience with the Scottoiler for cutting down on chain maintenance? Worth it or no?

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

I do not care for them as they typically fling poo poo everywhere. I far prefer the occasional chain scrub and then spraying it down with dupont chain wax after

Renaissance Robot
Oct 10, 2010

Bite my furry metal ass

Kastivich posted:

Does anyone have experience with the Scottoiler for cutting down on chain maintenance? Worth it or no?

If you're the kind of scrub who rides a lot in all weather and skimps on chain maintenance (like me) then yes they're absolutely worth it, because the alternative is your chain not getting oiled nearly enough.

They do fling oil around, especially before you get the drip rate dialled in, but regular spray lube gets everywhere too and scottoil just wipes off instead of getting gummed on with dirt.


e/ a lot of the reviews that accuse them of being especially messy set the injector wrong, floating mid-air over the chain instead of contacting the rear sprocket. If you do get one, read the manual.

Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 18:44 on May 21, 2020

Kastivich
Mar 26, 2010

Renaissance Robot posted:

If you're the kind of scrub who rides a lot in all weather and skimps on chain maintenance (like me) then yes

This is exactly the kind of scrub I am. Well, I was before the world shut down.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Pro-tier scrub is having a scottoiler but not bothering to refill it with Oil of Scott when it runs out because you've got a can of Teflon spray anyway and ehh gently caress it spray some of that on when you remember it's just easier.

helstein
Mar 12, 2006

Kastivich posted:

Does anyone have experience with the Scottoiler for cutting down on chain maintenance? Worth it or no?

Easy peasy. Just by a KTM and let the leaky countershaft seal oil the chain for you. (I have to replace mine again...)

Chain maintenance is kind of a balance of having your bike and left leg soaked in gunk or replacing dry and stretched chains too often. Scott oilers removes those 2 minutes of chain inspection once in a while, but taking the time fussing over the chain and lubricating while inspecting the rest of the bike might be an issue.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Renaissance Robot posted:

If you're the kind of scrub who rides a lot in all weather and skimps on chain maintenance (like me) then yes they're absolutely worth it, because the alternative is your chain not getting oiled nearly enough.

Or you recognize the supremacy of shaft drive for a moment before you remember that yours needs special weird moly paste and is built using expensive splines, u-joints and shafts all of which can fail.

Crusty chain supremacy, actually

kloa
Feb 14, 2007


Lol all this chain talk and I just bought a shaft driven bike. Feels kinda weird not having to maintain it/check it like a chain :shrug:

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

ERM... Actually I have stellar scores on the surveys, and every year students tell me that my classes are the best ones they’ve ever taken.
Has anyone ever built a motorcycle with a hydraulic drive? Like a pump on the side of the engine and an in-hub hydraulic motor on the swingarm and power transmitted through hydraulic hoses. Instead of a transmission you could have valves and torque converters. All the moving parts would be sealed.

I'd get a kick out of it

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester
Oct 3, 2000

Kastivich posted:

Does anyone have experience with the Scottoiler for cutting down on chain maintenance? Worth it or no?
Not a Scott specifically but yes and they are the best thing and every chain drive bike should have them. I use a Motobriiz which is cheap and wind powered. Huge fan of it.
But also chain drives are a bad idea and all bikes should be shaft or at least belt.

right arm posted:

I do not care for them as they typically fling poo poo everywhere. I far prefer the occasional chain scrub and then spraying it down with dupont chain wax after
I'm surprised to hear this because my experience is exactly the opposite. Chain wax is the nastiest horrible poo poo ever invented and is impossible to remove with chemicals, it has to be scraped off if you ever intend to remove it. Oiler oils are just oil so they wash off with soap.

Sagebrush posted:

Has anyone ever built a motorcycle with a hydraulic drive? Like a pump on the side of the engine and an in-hub hydraulic motor on the swingarm and power transmitted through hydraulic hoses. Instead of a transmission you could have valves and torque converters. All the moving parts would be sealed.
I think I saw a 2WD dirt bike conversion kit that ran this way. Some kind of a drive off the sprocket that ran the front wheel with a pump torque-converter style. Interesting idea but for that purpose you'd probably want a mechanical drive with more positive traction I'd think.

goddamnedtwisto
Dec 31, 2004

If you ask me about the mole people in the London Underground, I WILL be forced to kill you
Fun Shoe

Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:

I think I saw a 2WD dirt bike conversion kit that ran this way. Some kind of a drive off the sprocket that ran the front wheel with a pump torque-converter style. Interesting idea but for that purpose you'd probably want a mechanical drive with more positive traction I'd think.

Yamaha did a concept bike for Dakar like this, I remember it got a load of hype and then just disappeared. However I'm sure even as we speak some BMW engineer with quarantine fever is working on a single-sided shaft drive front end.

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some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 

Sagebrush posted:

Has anyone ever built a motorcycle with a hydraulic drive? Like a pump on the side of the engine and an in-hub hydraulic motor on the swingarm and power transmitted through hydraulic hoses. Instead of a transmission you could have valves and torque converters. All the moving parts would be sealed.

I'd get a kick out of it

I’m seeing one big steampunk bike in my mind’s eye

And it’s not good

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